2025 Everest expedition dispatches

Hello, from the Western Cwm!

Climbing in the early morning hours through the Khumbu Icefall with Pumori and Everest Base Camp behind.

The Madison Mountaineering Everest and Lhotse team are making great progress on their acclimatization efforts as they move higher up the mountain! In the last few days, they’ve left their base camp, climbing through the Khumbu Icefall and into Camp 1. Today, they enjoyed a nice hike up to Camp 2 and then descended back to Camp 1, with plans to continue up for a few nights at higher camps soon. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from the Himalaya:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft) and Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) expedition team.

We are up at Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft), it is May 4th – May the fourth be with you! We had a great acclimatization hike today, part way up towards Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) in the Western Cwm and had some cloud cover, so it stayed cool for us. Now it’s snowing a little bit. We’re back in Camp 1 enjoying a lunch and settling in for our afternoon rest. We’re going to head up to Camp 2 tomorrow.

All is well here in Camp 1! We’ll check in soon.

Morning light on Pumori as the team climbs from Everest Base Camp to Camp 1.

Morning light on Pumori as the team climbs from Everest Base Camp to Camp 1.

A beautiful morning to be climbing in the Himalayas

A beautiful morning to be climbing in the Himalayas

Navigating up, down, over, and through icy blocks of the Khumbu Icefall

Navigating up, down, over, and through icy blocks of the Khumbu Icefall

Beautiful, blue skies as climbers ascend one of the ladders on the way to Camp 1

Beautiful, blue skies as climbers ascend one of the ladders on the way to Camp 1

Climbing through the Khumbu Icefall

Climbing through the Khumbu Icefall

Crevasse crossing

Crevasse crossing

Climbers ascending one of the many ladders that connect sections of the broken Khumbu Icefall.

Climbers ascending one of the many ladders that connect sections of the broken Khumbu Icefall.

Navigating the Khumbu Icefall with morning light falling upon Lingtren behind.

Navigating the Khumbu Icefall with morning light falling upon Lingtren behind.

Our Mountain Hardwear tent in Camp 1 with Mount Everest and Lhotse behind.

Our Mountain Hardwear tent in Camp 1 with Mount Everest and Lhotse behind.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Heading up soon!

Mount Everest (photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Everest and Lhotse expedition teams are turning in for the night, packed and ready to begin their next acclimatization rotation! The team plans to climb all the way up to Camp 3 over the course of the next few days, building acclimatization and putting their skills to the test along the way as they navigate new terrain on their way to the higher camps. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from Everest Base Camp:

Hey! This is Garrett checking in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft) and Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) expedition team.

Today is May 2nd and we are heading up tonight to start our rotation to the higher camps! We’re going to head up the Khumbu Icefall, spend a couple of nights at Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft), and then head up towards Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft), spend at least a couple of nights up there, try to touch Camp 3 (7230m/23,720ft) for further acclimatization and skills practice, and then head on down to base camp.

(We’re) looking forward to getting up high on the mountain and putting our skills to the test here in the icefall, and also getting some bigger and better acclimatization, hopefully some great views up there.

So, all is well here at base camp! We’ll check in soon.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Getting ready for another rotation

Todays training grounds.

The Madison Mountaineering Everest–Lhotse expedition team got back to work today, heading out into the Khumbu Glacier to continue sharpening their skills for the terrain that they’ll face here soon! With their next rotation coming up in the next few days, they’ll leave their base camp, head into the Khumbu Icefall to Camp 1 and beyond. Everyone is doing great, feeling strong, and about ready to go! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from Everest Base Camp:

Hello! This is Garrett checking in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft) and Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) team up here at Everest Base Camp (5364m/17,598ft).

Today, we went out and trained, did ladder practice here on the ice towers near base camp, lower Khumbu Glacier. We also had some vertical fixed-lines for ascending-descending, and just dialing our skills and technique, getting ready for our first foray up through the Khumbu Icefall!

Everyone did great today! The team is enjoying our time up here at base camp, good meals, good rest, and lots of movies, and getting organized and ready for our first trip up to the higher camps.

So, all is well here at base camp! We’ll check in soon.

Expedition leader, Garrett Madison working with the team (photo by Susan Agar)

Expedition leader, Garrett Madison working with the team (photo by Susan Agar)

Descending fixed-lines in the lower Khumbu Glacier (photo by Susan Agar)

Descending fixed-lines in the lower Khumbu Glacier (photo by Susan Agar)

One of team members navigating the skill course (photo by Susan Agar)

One of team members navigating the skill course (photo by Susan Agar)

Practicing ladder crossing near our base camp (photo by Conan Bliss)

Practicing ladder crossing near our base camp (photo by Conan Bliss)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Rest and relaxation in Everest Base Camp!

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archives (photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest and Lhotse expedition teams are back in base camp after a successful climb on Lobuche Peak in the days prior! After climbing to over 6,100-meters and 20,000-feet, the team is happy to be back and enjoying the comforts that the temporary home has to offer. With their first rotation onto Mount Everest coming up, the team will be back to work shortly preparing for their first trip through the Khumbu Icefall. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from Everest Base Camp:

Hey! This is Garrett checking in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft) and Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) expedition.

We had a great day of rest here at Everest Base Camp (5364m/17,598ft) after returning from Lobuche Peak (6119m/20,075ft)! As we mentioned before, we had a great climb of Lobuche Peak, fantastic conditions, great views from up there, and everyone on the team did very well.

So, happy to be back at our base camp! We’ve got hot showers, films, big heated dining tent, great meals from our chef Deepak here, and very comfy, cozy accommodations for our rest and recovery as we look forward to some training in the coming days to get prepared for our first climb up through the Khumbu Icefall to the higher camps on our first rotation.

Everyone’s doing well here! All good here at Everest Base Camp and we’ll check in soon.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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First rotation is done!

The team together on the summit of Lobuche East!

The Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest and Lhotse expedition teams continued their acclimatization efforts by climbing Lobuche East over the weekend. This concludes their first acclimatization rotation before they head through the Khumbu Icefall on the next rotation. The team had a great climb, enjoying spectacular views as they climbed swiftly and strongly to the summit. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from Lobuche village:

Hello! Today is Monday, April 28 and we are back from our Lobuche Peak (6119m/20,075ft) climb.

Yesterday, we summited Lobuche East , the sub-peak of Lobuche Peak just below Everest Base Camp (5364m/17,598ft). We had a great climb, beautiful weather, clear and sunny. We’re back down in Lobuche Lodge (4940m/16,210ft) now and we’re heading back to Everest Base Camp later today.

Terray and the Makalu (8463m/27,766ft) team flew from Pangboche (3985m/13,074ft) over to Makalu Base Camp yesterday and got all settled in. It looks like they have a beautiful base camp there at Makalu! We’re wishing them good luck on their climb.

So, all is well here in Nepal! We’ll check in soon.

Ama Dablam as seen from Lobuche High Camp.

Ama Dablam as seen from Lobuche High Camp.

Starting up the route on clear, starry skies.

Starting up the route under clear, starry skies.

Ascending fixed-lines on the way to the summit.

Ascending fixed-lines on the way to the summit.

Looking down the ridge that leads to the summit over clouds below.

Looking down the ridge that leads to the summit over clouds below.

Views of Mount Everest from the top of Lobuche East!

Views of Mount Everest from the top of Lobuche East!

Some of the team on the summit!

Some of the team on the summit!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Puja day in Everest Base Camp!

Our team following the Puja ceremony!

The Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest and Lhotse expedition teams gathered together today in prayer to ask the mountains for safe passage by way of the Puja ceremony. It was another beautiful day in Everest Base Camp for this important piece of our expeditions! With technical skills review and our Puja ceremony complete, our team plans to descend back down the valley tomorrow towards Lobuche East for our first acclimatization rotation in which we’ll climb to 6119m / 20,075ft. Meanwhile, we’ve said goodby to our Makalu expedition team who is en route to their climbing objective. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison check in with this dispatch from the Himalayas:

Hello! This is Garrett checking in for the Mount Everest (8848m/29,032ft) – Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) team.

We are at Everest Base Camp (5364m/17,598ft)! We’ve had two great days of training back to back out in the Khumbu Icefall on our ice course doing ascending, repelling on fixed-lines – some really fun, engaging terrain out here.

Today, we had our Puja – our sacred, spiritual ceremony where we ask the mountain for safe passage. Our entire Nepalese staff, our Sherpa team, and a Lama came up from down valley to recite the prayers and offer the the gods the chance for us to have safe passage. So, the Puja ceremony went well today. It was a big success, a beautiful day, a very special ceremony. Tomorrow, we’re going to head down to Lobuche (4940m/16,210ft) and do some climbing on Lobuche East Peak (6119m/20,075ft)!

Our Makalu (8463m/27,766ft) team left us after four nights here in Everest Base Camp. Terray, Aga, Alex, and Kristin – they’re down in Pangboche (3985m/13,074ft) and heading over to Makalu Base Camp here in a couple of days by helicopter. So, it’s a smaller crew, we’re sad to see them go, but wishing them a great adventure on their climb. And we’re looking forward to more great weather here at Everest Base Camp! We’ll check in soon.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Great day of training on the Khumbu Glacier!

Descending fixed lines with the Khumbu Icefall in the distance (photo by Terray Sylvester)

It was an excellent day of training on the Khumbu Glacier! Situated just outside our base camp, our team kitted-up, fueled with a nutritious breakfast, and took to the ice under crystal-clear, blue skies. The team reviewed technical skills that are needed to climb Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu. By reviewing these skills now, the team can move swiftly and efficiently while navigating different sections of the route. Everyone did great, and is looking strong and ready to get the climbing underway! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from Everest Base Camp:

Hello! This is Garrett checking in for the Madison Mountaineering climbing team here at Everest Base Camp (5364m/17,598ft).

Today we did training outside of Everest Base Camp! We set up a course and practiced ascending vertical fixed-lines, descending or repelling vertical lines, and working with out crampons on the ice. It was a glorious day, beautiful views all around. The team did really well, it was a great first day on the ice practicing all of the technical mountaineering skills we’ll need to climb the peak.

All is well here at Everest Base Camp! Everyone’s doing great and we’ll check in soon.

Expedition leader, Garrett Madison working with Chip, one of our climbers (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Expedition leader, Garrett Madison working with Chip, one of our climbers (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Guide, Conan Bliss and climber, Susan (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Guide, Conan Bliss and climber, Susan (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Climbers, Alex and Kristin ascending fixed lines (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Climbers, Alex and Kristin ascending fixed lines (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Aga, a member of our Makalu team, training on the Khumbu Glacier (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Aga, a member of our Makalu team, training on the Khumbu Glacier (photo by Terray Sylvester)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Skills training in the icefall!

Technical skills review in the lower Khumbu Icefall!

After saying ‘so-long’ to our trekking team today, our Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu teams took to the lower Khumbu Icefall to practice technical skills that they’ll use as they climb different sections of the routes. It was a beautiful day in Everest Base Camp with the sun shining down on us and comfortable temperatures at over 17,000 feet. Nuptse towers high above the team and there are spectacular views in every direction you look – it’s quite the training ground! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from Everest Base Camp:

Hello! This is Garrett checking in from Mount Everest Base Camp (5364m/17,598ft) with our Everest (8848m/29,032ft), Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft), Makalu (8463m/27,766ft) teams – today is April 23rd.

Our trekking team is heading down from base camp to head back to Kathmandu (1400m/4,600ft) after a marvelous trek and a night here at base camp with all of us. The rest of us are settling in, had some showers, good meals, and we’re heading out to do some training in the lower icefall today. So, we’re looking forward to some skills work, technical practice.

Everyone’s doing well here, enjoying some beautiful weather, sunny skies, and just magnificent views all around. All is well here at Everest Base Camp and we’ll check in soon!

Climbers reviewing technical skills under beautiful, blue skies!

Climbers reviewing technical skills under beautiful, blue skies!

Practicing ascending fixed-lines with Nuptse towering high above.

Practicing ascending fixed-lines with Nuptse towering high above.

A section of todays training ground with Everest Base Camp behind.

A section of todays training ground with Everest Base Camp behind.

All smiles in Everest Base Camp!

All smiles in Everest Base Camp!

A perfect training ground right out our tent doors!

A perfect training ground right out our tent doors!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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We made it to Everest Base Camp!

Hello, from Everest Base Camp! (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Himalayan expedition teams have arrived in Everest Base Camp! It’s here that our trekkers will begin their descent back down the Khumbu Valley, while our climbers fix their sights on 8,000-meter summits high above them. After settling into our temporary homes, some of the team climbed up Kala Patthar – a trekkers peak that sits above Everest Base Camp that offers excellent views of Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, and more. It’s good to be here and we’re excited for the journey ahead! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from Everest Base Camp:

Hello! This is Garrett checking in for the Madison Mountaineering team.

We arrived in Everest Base Camp (5364m/17,598ft) today! Another glorious day here in the Khumbu Valley – no clouds, blue skies, magnificent views of all the peaks. Some of our team hiked up Kala Patthar (5644m/18,519ft) and had extraordinary views of Everest (8848m/29,032ft), Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft), Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft), and up at Everest Base Camp. The rest of us are, we’re all moved into base camp today, getting comfortable, settling into our home here for the next five – six weeks. (We’re) looking forward to a nice rest day tomorrow!

All is well here at Everest Base Camp. We’ll check in soon!

Some of our team atop Kala Patthar!

Some of our team atop Kala Patthar!

Looking up at Pumori

Looking up at Pumori

Some of our team posing in front of Everest, Lhotse, and Nuptse!

Some of our team posing in front of Everest, Lhotse, and Nuptse!

Crystal-clear views of Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, and Everest Base Camp.

Crystal-clear views of Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, and Everest Base Camp.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Acclimatizing amongst the clouds

The team at about 5,000m on Nangkartshang above Pheriche Village today (photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Himalayan expedition teams had a great day building their acclimatization above the village of Pheriche! After a good nights rest after the trek from Deboche to Pheriche, the team fueled up with a good breakfast and took to the trail that climbs high above the villages below. Climbing through some clouds, we ascended higher and higher up Nangkartshang Peak (5083m/16,676ft) with views of Ama Dablam and other surrounding Himalayan giants. After coming together again at the high point for the day, we took in the views, hydrated, snacked, and enjoyed each others company before descending back down to the tea house below. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from Pheriche:

Hello! This is Garrett checking in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft) and Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) team.

Today’s April 19 and we hiked up from the village of Pheriche (4371m/14,340ft) on Nangkartshang Peak (5083m/16,676ft) today. We had a gear acclimatization hike and got up to about 16,700 feet or so. Everyone did awesome and we had some nice views up there! We’re back down at the lodge here in Pheriche ready for dinner.

So, wonderful day and we’re going to head up to Lobuche village (4940m/16,210ft) tomorrow.

All is well here! We’ll check in soon.

Guide Cacho Beiza with his wife, Andrea Berlanga, and excellent views of Ama Dablam (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Guide Cacho Beiza with his wife, Andrea Berlanga, and excellent views of Ama Dablam (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Garrett Madison with climbers Mike and Caroline in front of Thamserku peak (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Garrett Madison with climbers, Mike and Caroline in front of Thamserku peak (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Guide, Conan Bliss with climber, Aga (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Guide, Conan Bliss with climber, Aga (photo by Terray Sylvester)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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