2023 Everest expedition dispatches

First Rotation: Complete!

Our Lobuche East climbers just after summiting this morning! Photo: Tenzi Sherpa

Today was a big day in the Himalayas for the 2023 Madison Mountaineering Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse expedition teams! Over the course of the last few days, our teams have been busy on their first rotations in the Himalayas. Our first wave of climbers successfully completed their first rotation up to Camp 2, and are safely back in Everest Base Camp after descending through the icefall. Further down the Khumbu Valley, our second wave of climbers enjoyed good weather and climbing conditions on Lobuche East, and successfully reached the summit this morning before descending back to the village of Lobuche for the night! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison, checks in with today’s dispatch from Everest Base Camp:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest (8848m/29,032ft) expedition. Today is Wednesday, April 26.

We’ve got great news to report! Today, our first wave of climbers just returned down to base camp (5364m/17,598ft) from our first rotation up at Camps 1 (6050m/19,849ft) and 2 (6500m/21,325ft). We had a great rotation, four nights up high, and spent time hiking around Camp 2 at 21,300 feet, and made it down safely through the Khumbu Icefall today!

Our second wave of climbers, with guide Cacho Beiza, climbed Lobuche East (6119m/20,075ft) today and reached the summit ridge – beautiful views all around! They are now headed back to base camp tomorrow. So, our team will be all together!

Also, our Everest Express climber, Danah Ali arrived in Nepal and flew to the Khumbu Valley, and was met in Pheriche (4371m/14,340ft) village by guide, Terray Sylvester. She will be integrating with our team in the next few days!

So, we’ve been enjoying good conditions here on Everest. Our Sherpa team has been doing a fantastic job carrying loads up the mountain and helping us climb safely. We look forward to some good weather in the coming days and weeks ahead! Check in soon.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Progress in Nepal!

Our team acclimatizing above Camp 1 during an active rest day on April 23! (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

With the bulk of our collective team all in the Khumbu region, the teams are well on their way towards the objectives forthcoming! Our first wave of climbers have had great climbing conditions so far, as they navigated their way through the complex terrain of the Khumbu Icefall and are now spending time acclimatizing in the Western Cwm. After a few days of technical training in Everest Base Camp, our second wave of climbers is on their way to start their first rotation on Lobuche! Expedition guide, Terray Sylvester, checks in with this update from Nepal:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft), Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) and Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft) expedition – today is April 24th.

Today our first wave of climbers here in Nepal moved from Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft) to Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft). They plan to spend two nights at Camp 2, and then return to base camp (5364m/17,598ft). That will complete their first acclimatization rotation! The’ve had great conditions so far. They had particularly good climbing conditions two days ago when the moved to Camp 1 up through the Khumbu Icefall. They were essentially the only team in the icefall that night, which made for really pleasant, smooth climbing without any lines!

Meanwhile, our second wave of climbers just left base camp. They hiked down to the village of Lobuche (4940m/16,210ft) today, and tomorrow they’ll move up to the Lobuche high camp, and then hopefully summit Lobuche peak (6119m/20,075ft) the following day. They spent the last two days practicing their technical skills here on the ice towers next to base camp.

So, all is well here in Nepal and we’ll be in touch tomorrow!

The "second wave" about to depart for Lobuche! (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

The “second wave” about to depart for Lobuche! (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Lhotse climber, Karl Yoder, near the top of the Khumbu Icefall! (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Lhotse climber, Karl Yoder, near the top of the Khumbu Icefall! (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Our team in the Western Cwm! (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Our team in the Western Cwm! (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Our "second wave" of climbers training near base camp!

Our “second wave” of climbers training near base camp!

Technical training near base camp!

Technical training near base camp!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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First Rotation Underway!

The team climbing into the Khumbu Icefall! Photo pulled from Madison Mountaineering archive (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

The first rotation for our Mount Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse teams is underway through the Khumbu Icefall! The team got an alpine start out of base camp and will move up to Camp 1 for the first time on this years expedition. After a few days of rest and training in base camp, the team is psyched and ready to start making their way higher up the mountain! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison, checks in with today’s dispatch from the Himalayas:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft) expedition ‘first wave.’ Today is April 22nd, it’s 2:00 A.M and we’re headed out from base camp (5364m/17,598ft) to start our first rotation up to Camps 1 (6050m/19,849ft) and 2 (6500m/21,325ft). Our plan is to go up through the icefall to Camp 1 today and spend a couple of nights there, and then up to Camp 2 for a couple of nights!

It snowed yesterday and it looks like it’s cleared a little bit tonight. We’re excited to head up to the icefall, it looks like we’ll be the only team at the moment climbing up, with a little fresh snow on the route and hopefully a beautiful day ahead! We’ll check in when we’re down in a few days.

Our next wave with Cacho is arriving in base camp later today! All is well here on Mount Everest.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Snow in EBC

Our 'second wave' of climbers on top of Kala Patthar this afternoon, after hiking to Gorakshep!

While snow fell over base camp, our first team rested today and prepared for their first rotation through the Khumbu Icefall! They plan to wake up around midnight to start their climb towards Camp 1, knowing that they may push back their plan another day due to the fresh snowfall. Not far away, our second team reached Gorakshep and hiked up Kala Patthar. Despite the limited views, the team is in good spirits and psyched for the days ahead! Expedition guide, Terray Sylvester, checks in with today’s dispatch from the Khumbu:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the 2023 Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft), Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) and Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft) expeditions – today is April 21st.

Today we took a rest day here in base camp (5364m/17,598ft) while we packed and prepared for our first rotation up to Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft) for two nights, and then Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) for two nights, and then back down. However, this evening it’s snowing hard in base camp, so there’s a chance we’ll wake up at midnight and defer the beginning of that rotation for another day.

Meanwhile, the other group of climbers here in the Khumbu Valley is in Gorakshep (5164m/16,942ft)! Today they hiked up Kala Patthar (5644m/18,519ft) – great acclimatization hike even though their views were limited due to the storm. And tomorrow they plan to move to base camp!

We’ll be in touch tomorrow.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Into the Icefall!

The team climbing into the Khumbu Icefall! Photo pulled from Madison Mountaineering archive (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Today, the team made their first trip into the Khumbu Icefall to start to get a sense of what moving through the beautifully complicated terrain will be like on future rotations as they make their way higher up the mountain. Further down the valley, our second team has arrived in Lobuche, and is set to meet the rest of the team in Everest Base Camp (EBC) in just a few days! Expedition guide, Terray Sylvester, checks in with today’s dispatch from EBC:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft), Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) and Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft) expedition – today is April 20th.

Today our team here in base camp (5364m/17,598ft) got up early and hiked maybe a fifth to a quarter of the way up to Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft). So we went part way into the Khumbu Icefall – it’s a really nice way for our climbers to start to get acquainted with the terrain that we’ll climb through in the dark in a couple of days when we head up to Camp 1 before dawn.

Meanwhile, our other group here in the Khumbu Valley hiked to Lobuche village (4940m/16,210ft). They’ll stay there tonight, and then they’ll move to Gorakshep (5164m/16,942ft) tomorrow, and hopefully make it to base camp the day after that!

We had a little light snow this evening and we might get a little bit more snow tomorrow, but for the group here in base camp, tomorrow will be a rest day. All is well here in Nepal! We’ll be in touch tomorrow.

Climber, Debbie Bulten, descending out of the icefall with Sange Sherpa. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Debbie Bulten, descending out of the icefall with Sange Sherpa. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Rick Irvine, rappelling in the icefall. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Rick Irvine, rappelling in the icefall. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Rest and relaxation in EBC!

Excellent views of EBC and the peaks above it from the slopes below Pumori! Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Having spent the last few days doing lots of training and review for the climbs forthcoming, our first team enjoyed a day of rest and relaxation under the sun in base camp! The second of our climbing teams took an active rest day of their own around Pheriche, and looks forward to progressing further up the valley tomorrow to Lobuche. Expedition guide, Terray Sylvester, checks in with today’s dispatch from the Khumbu:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the 2023 Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft), Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) and Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft) expedition – today is April 19th.

Today our group here in base camp (5364m/17,598ft) took a rest day! We had four pretty active days practicing technical skills and acclimatizing, so today we just relaxed, caught up on showers, laundry, things like that. It was a beautiful day! Really pleasant here in base camp – sunny and warm.

Meanwhile, our second wave of climbers had an active rest day in Pheriche (4371m/14,340ft). They hiked up to a point pretty high above Pheriche, called Nangkartshang, then went down to Dingboche (4410m/14,470ft) and had some coffees, pastries and lunch in the nice bakery there.

So, all is well here in Nepal! Tomorrow, with the team here in base camp, we plan to do a foray into the icefall just a little ways, and then back to base camp for lunch. Meanwhile, the other team will move to Lobuche (4940m/16,210ft)! We’ll be in touch tomorrow.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Clear skies over the Khumbu!

Our climbers acclimatizing at Pumori advanced base camp today, with great views of Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse! (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

With another day of clear-blue skies under their belts, the team’s acclimatization efforts are well underway as they hiked to a viewpoint at the foot of Pumori today. Upon reaching today’s highpoint, unobstructed views were unveiled of the Khumbu Icefall, Lhotse and the summit of Mount Everest! Expedition guide, Terray Sylvester, checks in with today’s dispatch from Everest Base Camp:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the 2023 Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft), Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) and Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft) expedition – today is April 18th.

Today our team here in base camp (5364m/17,598ft) went on an acclimatization hike up to advanced base camp at the foot of Pumori (7161m/23,494ft). We had excellent views of the Khumbu Icefall and the Lhotse Face, as well as the summit of Lhotse and the summit of Everest. That high point is about 18,500 feet or about 5,600 meters. Then we came down and had a nice lunch, and we’re just relaxing this afternoon.

Meanwhile, our second wave of climbers is progressing up the Khumbu Valley. Today, they had their Puja ceremony in Pangboche (3985m/13,074ft) with the Lama there, and they’re staying tonight in Pheriche (4371m/14,340ft).

So, all is well here in Nepal! We’ll be in touch tomorrow.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Training and Awaiting

Excellent views of EBC and the peaks above it from the slopes below Pumori! Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

While our first wave of climbers awaits to greet their fellow teammates in base camp, they continue their technical training in the neighboring ice formations to their base camp! Good weather has made for good times in the Khumbu thus far, not to mention delicious food and movies to watch as the sun sets over Everest Base Camp (EBC). Expedition guide, Terray Sylvester, checks in with this dispatch from EBC:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft), Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) and Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft) expedition – today is April 17th.

Today we had a third day of technical training on ice formations next to base camp (5364m/17,598ft) – practiced ascending and rappelling steep ice, as well as went over technique for ladder crossings. And then, (we) relaxed in the afternoon! In the evening, we had a great dinner of fried chicken, pasta and potatoes! Then, we watched The Hangover, was our movie selection tonight.

Our second wave of climbers are in Deboche (3820m/12,532ft) tonight. They stopped at the famous Tengboche Monastery on the way from Namche (3440m/11,290ft), and then are staying at the comfortable Rivendell Lodge tonight.

So all is well here in Nepal, and we’ll be in touch tomorrow!

Climber, Larry Zitnick, receiving a blessing along the trek towards EBC!

Climber, Larry Zitnick, receiving a blessing along the trek towards EBC!

Climber, Larry Zitnick, spinning a few of the many prayer wheels encountered on the trail en route to EBC!

Climber, Larry Zitnick, spinning a few of the many prayer wheels encountered on the trail en route to EBC!

Climbing and trekking duo, Rich and Sarah Draves, smiling for a photo on the trek towards EBC!

Climbing and trekking duo, Rich and Sarah Draves, smiling for a photo on the trek towards EBC!

Climbers, Krisli Melesk and Stevie Hornick, stopping for a photo!

Climbers, Krisli Melesk and Stevie Hornick, stopping for a photo!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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The Preparation Continues!

Expedition leader, Garrett Madison, demonstrating technical skills during today's training session. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Another day in base camp and another day training for the climbs ahead! While our second wave of climbers trek further up the valley on the way to Everest Base Camp (EBC), our team who has settled into EBC spent another morning training on the technical skills necessary for their climbs on Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse. Expedition guide, Terray Sylvester, checks in with this dispatch from EBC:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the 2023 Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft), Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) and Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft) expedition – today is April 16.

Today our team in base camp (5364m/17,598ft) spent another morning reviewing technical skills, ascending and descending fixed lines, as we prepare to move up to Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft). Meanwhile, our second wave of Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse climbers are in Namche Bazaar (3440m/11,290ft)! They had an active rest day today and enjoyed all that Namche has to offer: good food, hot showers. They’ll continue on their way up the Khumbu Valley tomorrow.

All is well here in base camp! We’ll be in touch tomorrow.

Climber, Bruce Smith, practicing ascending fixed lines on the Khumbu Glacier. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Bruce Smith, practicing ascending fixed lines on the Khumbu Glacier. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Debbie Bulten, rappelling down a Khumbu Glacier ice formation. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Debbie Bulten, rappelling down a Khumbu Glacier ice formation. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Rick Irvine, rappelling during skills training near base camp. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Rick Irvine, rappelling during skills training near base camp. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Technical Training in Base Camp

Expedition leader, Garrett Madison, monitoring the training. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

The team has been hard at work in Everest Base Camp (EBC) doing technical training in the neighboring Khumbu Glacier! With our second team arriving in EBC shortly, climbers will continue their training and acclimatization before making their first rotations. Expedition guide, Terray Sylvester, checks in with this dispatch from EBC:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft), Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) and Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft) expedition – it’s April 15th.

Today our team here in base camp (5364m/17,598ft) went out into the ice formations of the Khumbu Glacier next to base camp to begin practicing technical skills, ascending and descending on fixed lines. We’ll spend at least a few more days practicing technical skills before we start moving up to Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft). And then, in the evening we had a great dinner of cashew curried chicken, fresh vegetables, and then we watched We’re the Millers afterward for our movie.

Meanwhile, our second team of climbers is in Namche Bazaar (3440m/11,290ft), making their way up the Khumbu Valley to base camp!

So, it was another great day here at the foot of Mount Everest and we’re looking forward to another good day tomorrow! We’ll be in touch.

Climbers, Debbie and Erwin navigating through the Khumbu Glacier during training! (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climbers, Debbie and Erwin navigating through the Khumbu Glacier during training! (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Serge Larouche, practicing traversing on steep ice. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Serge Larouche, practicing traversing on steep ice. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Erwin Visser, practicing crampon and fixed line descent skills. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Erwin Visser, practicing crampon and fixed line descent skills. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Pieter Swart, navigating an icy canyon near base camp. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Pieter Swart, navigating an icy canyon near base camp. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Our second wave of Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse climbers making their way up the Khumbu Valley! (Photo: Cacho Beiza)

Our second wave of Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse climbers making their way up the Khumbu Valley! (Photo: Cacho Beiza)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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