Getting ready to go!

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Karakoram expeditions team has been keeping busy in base camp as they prepare to make their summit bids on K2 and Broad Peak! The anticipation continues to build while reviewing oxygen systems, completing their climbing kits, and putting the finishing touches on technical trainings near camp. Everyone is in good spirits, feeling strong, and ready to go when the time comes to move on upwards! Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from K2 Base Camp:

Hello from K2 Base Camp (4968m/16,300ft)! Over the last two days we’ve continued our preparations for our summit bids on K2 (8611m/28,251ft) and Broad Peak (8051m/26,414ft). We’ve reviewed our oxygen systems and other elements of our equipment, and we’ve been staying active with hikes and training. Our whole team (both climbers and staff) is healthy and in good spirits. Now we’re just starting dinner and planning to follow it up with another movie in our base camp cinema. We’ll be in touch!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Back down to K2 Base Camp

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Karakoram expedition teams have returned back to their base camp after spending a few nights acclimatizing and taking part in environmental restoration efforts at K2‘s Advanced Base Camp. While they begin to prepare to make their summit bids, the team will spend some time resting and recovering over the course of the next few days, with some more activity and cleanup efforts thrown into the mix. Everyone’s in good spirits and excited for what’s ahead! Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from K2 Base Camp:

Hello from K2 Base Camp (4968m/16,300ft). We’re spending active rest days here as we prepare for our summit bids on K2 (8611m/28,251ft) and Broad Peak (8051m/26,414ft). We’re also hoping to fit in at least one more cleanup session before we conclude the waste collection aspect of this expedition. That effort was proposed by our climber, Ryan Mitchell. He’s done a great job helping with the cleanup itself, and raising funds to support it by soliciting donations to our nonprofit Madison Mountaineering Foundation, which we founded to support our waste removal efforts in the high altitude climbing zones that we cherish. The team is doing well. We’ll be in touch!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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456 pounds of waste collected so far!

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering team that’s positioned in advanced base camp at the foot of K2 continued their acclimatization efforts today, combined with more cleanup in and around camp. An additional 62 kilos of trash will be properly removed from the mountain, bringing the teams total to 207kg / 456lbs altogether! With some more cleanup planned in the days ahead, the team will also start to look for their window to move up the mountains, K2 and Broad Peak both. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from K2:

Hello again from K2 Advanced Base Camp (5303m/17,400ft)! This morning we cleaned up 62 kilos of trash from here at ABC and the base of the Abruzzi Spur, where debris that falls from Camps 1 (6065m/19,900ft) and 2 (6700m/21,980ft) often lands. As with our previous high elevation cleanups, we picked up old tents, clothing items, food packaging, pieces of oxygen systems, and many cooking gas canisters. We were also surprised to find a GoPro 10. This was our third cleanup session, and our staff and climbers did a great job. All told, we’ve now picked up 207kg / 456lbs of waste from here at K2 (8611m/28,251ft). We’re planning at least one more cleanup push before we launch our summit bids on K2 and Broad Peak (8051m/26,414ft). We’ll be in touch tomorrow!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Settled in Advanced Base Camp

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering K2 expedition team reached advanced base camp today under blue skies, with great views of the surrounding peaks, and the route above them. They’ll spend several nights here acclimatizing and cleaning up some of the trash that’s accumulated in and around the camp. The team is remaining in good spirits and hopeful to move higher up the mountain soon! Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from K2‘s Advanced Base Camp:

Hello from K2 ABC (5303m/17,400ft)! This afternoon we hiked here and settled into our tents. We’re planning to spend two nights here acclimatizing and cleaning up trash before we return to base camp (4968m/16,300ft). The weather was beautiful today — sunny skies and slightly cooler temperatures. We’ll be in touch tomorrow!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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More cleanup efforts in the Karakoram!

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Upon exiting their tents, the Madison Mountaineering team welcomed a blanket of fresh snow on their base camp! As they day continued on, the clouds above them cleared over head, allowing the team to conduct some further cleanup efforts around camp. Over the course of the expedition, they’ve removed over 300 pounds of trash with no plans of stopping any time soon! With plans to move up to advanced base camp soon, they’ll shift their focus to climbing, but do some cleanup in the process. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from K2 Base Camp:

Hello from K2 Base Camp (4968m/16,300ft)! Today we woke up to several inches of fresh snow in camp and clearing skies. By lunch the snow had melted off around camp. So we headed out for a second trash cleanup session. Our climbers and staff picked up 111 kilos today. That brings our total so far to 145 kilos, or about 320 pounds. We’re planning to move our cleanup to advanced base camp (5303m/17,400ft) next. We’ll be in touch tomorrow!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Fresh snow in the Karakoram

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Karakoram expeditions team awoke to sunny skies and some fresh snow in the peaks towering above them! After fueling up with some breakfast, the team got their day going with a short hike to the Gilkey Memorial, remembering the fallen climbers of the past. Excellent views of the surrounding peaks were available as climbers turned their heads towards the skies, further fueling their excitement to begin climbing. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from the Karakoram:

We started today with a short hike to the Gilkey Memorial on the outskirts of K2 Base Camp (4968m/16,300ft). It was a sunny morning with a dusting of fresh snow on the big peaks above us. So the views from the memorial were great. After lunch, we returned to the ice pinnacles near our camp for a final technical training session, focusing on footwork technique on steep ice and fixed line skills. The team is doing well. We’re happy that cooler temperatures, plus some precipitation, have arrived at last. We’ll be in touch tomorrow!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Active rest in K2 Base Camp

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Karakoram expeditions team has all gathered back together again in K2 Base Camp! Some precipitation in the air this morning was a good reason to have a slow start before getting to work for the day, and heading out onto the ice for some training. Now settled in for the night, the team looks forward to another day of active rest tomorrow before they start to look ahead to the next rotation! Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from K2 Base Camp:

Hello from K2 Base Camp (4968m/16,300ft)! Yesterday we descended back here from our camp at the foot of the unclimbed peak. With light snow in the air this morning, we spent the first half of the day resting. In the afternoon, precipitation stopped and we went ice climbing on the pinnacles of the Godwin Austen Glacier beside base camp. Now we’re settling in for dinner and looking forward to another active rest day tomorrow.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Summit success on Alpamayo!

Back to camp after successfully topping out on Alpamayo (photo by Estalin Suárez)!

The Madison Mountaineering Alpamayo expedition team has returned home after successfully reaching the summit of what’s considered to be one of the most beautiful peaks on the face of the planet: Alpamayo in Peru’s Cordillera Blanca! Excellent weather and route conditions made for smooth climbing on summit day. The route is steep, technical, and not for the faint of heart. But shortly after the sun began to rise, we stepped onto the summit, slapped high-fives, snapped some photos, and celebrated for a short time before starting the descent. After safely making it back to base camp, the celebration continued on and all the way back to Huaraz – a perfect way to finish what was a beautiful expedition. Guide, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch to conclude the 2025 Alpamayo expedition:

Hey! This is Garrett checking in for the Madison Mountaineering Alpamayo (5947m/19,511ft) expedition.

We finished up our climb and had great success up on Alpamayo, fantastic conditions, and great weather up high. It was just our team and one other party of four climbers on the mountain. We just had spectacular views and a beautiful day climbing up the variation of the Ferrari route, and then back down.

(It was a) spectacular expedition and we’re so happy that we had good conditions in Peru. Looking forward to another trip here next summer!

Acclimatization hike early in the expedition (photo by Estalin Suárez)

Acclimatization hike early in the expedition (photo by Estalin Suárez)

The team enjoying an acclimatization hike under sunny skies (photo by Estalin Suárez)

The team enjoying an acclimatization hike under sunny skies (photo by Estalin Suárez)

The team together getting ready to leave the mountains.

The team together getting ready to leave the mountains.

Gazing back upon Alpamayo

Gazing back upon Alpamayo (photo by Estalin Suárez)

Camp on Alpamayo (photo by Estalin Suárez)

Camp on Alpamayo (photo by Estalin Suárez)

Climbers descending back to camp below the steep face of Alpamayo (photo by Estalin Suárez)

Climbers descending back to camp below the steep face of Alpamayo (photo by Estalin Suárez)

The summit ridge at sunrise (photo by Estalin Suárez)

The summit ridge at sunrise (photo by Estalin Suárez)

Morning light over the Cordillera Blanca of Peru (photo by Estalin Suárez)

Morning light over the Cordillera Blanca of Peru (photo by Estalin Suárez)

Our climber, Alix descending down the mountain after successfully reaching the summit (photo by Estalin Suárez)

Our climber, Alix descending down the mountain after successfully reaching the summit (photo by Estalin Suárez)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Attempt on the Unclimbed Peak

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Unclimbed Peak expedition team is now safely back in their camp after attempting to climb a previously unclimbed peak in the Karakoram. The team emerged from their tents and set off on the route under the cover of darkness, climbing through the night and reaching the summit ridge as the sun was rising. Difficult, unclimbed terrain separated the team from the summit. After a valiant effort and hours of assessing the route, the team made the decision to turn back. We’re so proud of the team for the hard work they put in: exploring unclimbed terrain and the patience it took to make the right call. A lot was learned and our team hopes to return should other route options open up! This one stays unclimbed—for now. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from the Karakoram:

Today we attempted to summit the objective of our unclimbed peak expedition. We left ABC at the foot of the peak at 12:45 a.m., and by 5 o’clock we were standing on a col on the peak’s summit ridge at about 6,200m. We gingerly negotiated cornices overhanging the peak’s steep east face until the cornices ended, and a long series of precipitous, chossy gendarmes lay between us and the summit. That terrain was unsafe for our team. So we descended to ABC, arriving before the afternoon sun began sending volleys of stones down the peak. All in an all, it was a spectacular foray into unclimbed terrain. We hope to return when an alternate route, directly up the peak’s face to its summit is in better shape. Until more snow falls, that option is too icy as a result of the very dry conditions this season. We’re looking forward to dropping back down to the comforts of K2 Base Camp (4968m/16,300ft) tomorrow!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Looking up at the Unclimbed Peak!

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering unclimbed peak expedition team is ready to make their push for the summit on a peak never before climbed by mankind, for a chance to etch their names into the mountaineering history books forever. The team moved from K2 base camp today, through the Godwin Austen Glacier, and into their advanced base camp at the base of the peak. Now, we’re settled into our tents with alarms set for an alpine start and will begin the climb in just a short time! Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from the base of the route on the unclimbed peak:

Hello from our advanced base camp at the foot of our unclimbed peak objective! This morning we climbed here from K2 Base Camp (4968m/16,300ft), threading our way through the crevasses of the Godwin Austen Glacier between K2 (8611m/28,251ft) and Broad Peak (8051m/26,414ft). Now we’re resting for our alpine start early tomorrow morning. The team is doing well. We’ll be in touch tomorrow.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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