High Peaks of Peru
– South America 6354m / 20,846ft.
Day 1: Arrive in Lima, Peru.
Day 2: We board our private air-conditioned bus and make the scenic drive to Huaraz. Along the way, we see the coastline and stop for a traditional lunch. We arrive at our hotel in the evening and begin acclimatizing that night, with an elevation of approximately 3000m or 10,000 ft.
Day 3: We spend the day organizing gear and acclimating in Huaraz. A mountain bike ride is optional. We enjoy a nice dinner and sleep in our hotel again.
Day 4: We drive through the countryside and beautiful lakes to the beginning of the hike to Pisco base camp. After unloading from the bus we make the short hike to our camp and settle in for the night.
Day 5: We make a carry to our Camp 1 on Pisco and return to base camp to sleep.
Day 6: After a leisurely breakfast we pack up and climb to our Camp 1, and review some technical climbing skills.
Day 7: We review climbing skills and continue acclimating.
Day 8: We negotiate the rocky moraine and climb up to our Camp 2, adjacent to the glacier. We go to bed early in preparation for an alpine start!
Day 9: Pisco Summit Day! We awake early and after a quick breakfast, depart camp to climb the glaciated slopes leading up to the Col, then make our way through crevasses and up steeper slopes to the summit (5752m/18,871ft). The views are spectacular and we can see many of the high peaks in the Andes. We return to camp and continue back down to our base camp.
Day 10: Today we relax in base camp and have an optional afternoon hike to a beautiful nearby lake.
Day 11: Now that we are acclimated and rested after climbing Pisco, we focus on our next challenge: Chopicalqui. We depart camp and climb to an intermediate camp on Chopicalqui.
Day 12: Today we make a carry to the high camp, climbing the glaciated slopes, then return to intermediate camp to sleep.
Day 13: Move to high camp. We rest in the afternoon and go to bed early in preparation for another alpine start!
Day 14: Chopicalqui Summit day! We awake before dawn and after a quick breakfast head out onto the glaciated slopes, climbing varying degrees of snow and ice, a ridgeline, and a few steep sections, then reach the summit (6354m/20,846ft). The summit is small and well defined, and a worthy accomplishment! We descend and sleep in our intermediate camp.
Day 15: We return to our base camp, pack up camp, and make the short hike to our private bus, then drive back to Huaraz where we check into our hotel and enjoy the comforts of civilization!
Day 16: We drive from Huaraz in our bus to Lima, then depart for home that evening
High Peaks of Peru
- June 15 - 30, 2020
Deposit: USD 1,800
- Airport pickup upon arrival in Lima
- Welcome dinner
- Accommodations in Lima for 1 night upon arrival, 2 nights in Huaraz before the climbs and then 1 night in Huaraz after the climbs
- All ground transport during the expedition
- All group gear such as tents, cooking equipment, climbing gear, etc.
- Communications equipment (VHF handheld radios)
- All food and meals on the mountains
- Western guide
- Peruvian support staff including cooks, porters, base camp manager
Costs Do Not Include:
- Bank transfer fees, if applicable
- Airfare to Peru
- Meals in Lima or Huaraz
- All expenses incurred for an early departure from the expedition
- Trip cancelation insurance or the required medical evacuation insurance
- Personal items (see gear list)
- There are no refunds for the deposit or balance payments for this expedition. This includes but is not limited to, expeditions that conclude without reaching or making progress towards expedition objective(s) (for example, the summit) due to route conditions, weather, insufficient manpower, or any other factor outside the control of Madison Mountaineering.
- Expedition leader has the final say on the expedition conclusion and will make all best efforts towards reaching expedition objective(s) within our margin of safety.
- Participants that choose to leave an active expedition for any reason are not entitled to any refunds
- Madison Mountaineering, LLC highly recommends trip cancellation insurance for all expeditions
- Due to the nature and heavy costs of government and operator permits, Madison Mountaineering must adhere to a stringent refund policy
- Deposit due with registration materials
- All balances are due 120 days prior to departure date unless otherwise specified
- Participants whose balances are not received by the 120-day deadline as stated above, risk forfeiture of their funds and their place on the expedition
Note: Madison Mountaineering, LLC reserves the right to waive any fees. As we offer personalized service, we will attempt to accommodate changes and cancellations when necessary, waiving certain fees when feasible. Deposits paid by participants acknowledge the above cancellation terms.
- Synthetic Short Underwear (1-2 pair): non-cotton style underwear
- Lightweight Long Underwear (1-2 pair): long sleeve shirt and long pants
- Heavyweight Long Underwear (1 pair)
- Short Sleeve Synthetic Shirt (1-2)
- Soft Shell Jacket: to be worn over other layers
- Soft Shell Pants: very breathable and water repellant
- Mid-Layer Top: lightweight layer for use over base layers
- Lightweight Nylon Pants
- Hard Shell Jacket with hood: waterproof and breathable shell jacket
- Hard Shell Pants: waterproof and breathable shell pants
- Heavyweight Insulated Down Jacket with hood
- Insulated Pants
- Warm Hat: synthetic or wool hat (ski hat)
- Balaclava: to protect your neck and face in high winds
- Baseball Cap or other sun hat: to shade your face/neck from the sun on a hot day
- Bandana or Buff: to protect your neck/face from the sun
- Glacier Glasses: full protection with side covers or wrap around
- Ski Goggles: to be worn in the event of high winds – (2nd pair optional)
- Lightweight Synthetic Base Layer Gloves (2 pair): for wearing on warm days
- Soft Shell Gloves: to wear for moderate cold/wind
- Shell Glove with Insulated Liner: to wear for severe cold/strong wind
- Expedition Mitts: large enough to fit a liner glove inside
- Liner Socks (3 pairs)
- Wool or Synthetic Socks (3 pairs)
- Mountaineering Boots
- Hiking Shoes/Boots: comfortable hiking boots
- Sleeping Bag: rated to at least -20°F
- Self-inflating Sleeping Pad: full length is preferred
- Closed-cell Foam Pad: to be used in conjunction with the inflating pad for warmth and comfort when sleeping
- Expedition Backpack: approximately 65L
- Compression Stuff Sacks: for reducing the volume of the sleeping bag, down parka, etc. in your pack
- Trash Compactor Bags: to line backpack and stuff sacks as well as for separating gear
- Backpack Rain Cover (optional)
- Trekking Poles with Snow Baskets: adjustable
- Ice Axe: general mountaineering tool (65cm)
- Crampons: general mountaineering crampons
- Climbing Helmet: must be able to fit over your warm hat
- Alpine Climbing Harness: mountaineering harness, with adjustable leg loops. Not a rock-climbing “sport” harness
- Carabineers: 2 regular, 4 locking
- Belay/Rappel Device
- Headlamp: with 2 extra sets of new batteries
- Large Duffel Bag with Lock: for transporting gear
- Small Duffel Bag with Lock: to store items in the hotel(s) while on the climb
- Travel Clothes and Shoes: for days in cities and towns
- Lightweight journal, sketchbook, pencils, pen
- U.S. cash: for currency exchange to purchase SIM cards or merchandise in cities and towns
Additional Food Items
- Snack Food: bring a few days supply of your favorite climbing snack food such as bars, gels, nuts, beef jerky, etc. variety of salty and sweet is good
- Cup: plastic 16 oz. minimum cup or mug
- Bowl: large plastic bowl for eating dinner or breakfast
- Spoon: plastic spoon (Lexan)
- Water Bottles (2): wide mouth bottles with 1-liter capacity
- Water Bottle Parkas (2): fully insulated with zip opening
- Water Treatment
- Thermos (optional): 1 liter
- Hand and Toe Warmers
- Sunscreen: SPF 50 or better
- Lip Screen (2 sticks): SPF 30 or better
- Toiletry Bag: include toothbrush, toothpaste, toilet paper, baby wipes and hand sanitizer (2 small bottles)
- Pee Bottle: 1-liter minimum bottle for convenience at night in the tent
- Female Urination Device (FUD)
- Knife or Multi-tool (optional)
- Small Personal First-aid Kit: include athletic tape, band-aids, Ibuprofen, blister care, etc.
- Medications and Prescriptions: bring personal medications, antibiotics (Azithromycin, etc.), altitude medicine such as Diamox, etc.
- Handkerchiefs/Bandanas (optional)
- Country-appropriate power plug adapters and power transformers
- Adventure Sports Watch: such as Garmin fēnix 6
- GPS/Personal Satellite Communicator: such as Garmin inReach Mini
- Personal Power System: such as Goal Zero Nomad 28 Plus Solar Panel and Sherpa 100AC Power Bank
- Digital Entertainment: movies, tv shows, music, books loaded on to smartphone, iPad, Kindle
- Camera: bring extra batteries, charger, and memory cards
Madison Mountaineering is recognized for well thought out strategy in leading high altitude climbing expeditions, as well as high-quality service throughout. We have two decades of experience in the planning and coordination of mountaineering expeditions, our reputation is excellent. We strive to make each expedition the best possible experience for our climbers and focus on our 3 primary goals of success in reaching the summit, returning safely, and having fun!
Our guides are some of the best and most experienced in the industry, having a strong grasp of technical climbing, expedition, and high altitude experience, along with strong interpersonal skills. Our teams are small and equipped with the best support available to ensure the highest chance of success. We are renowned for our comfortable base camps, high-quality food, first-rate communications, and medical support services, all of which are overseen by a professional member of our team.
Most of our climbers have either climbed with us before, been referred by a friend who has climbed with us, or met one of our teams while attempting another peak and decided to join us for their next expedition. We work hard to facilitate safe, successful, and enjoyable expeditions for all of our climbers. Our track record and past climber testimonials prove we are highly competent experts in our field and love what we do!