training Archives

Makalu 2025

Makalu team en route to Base Camp!

The Madison Mountaineering Makalu expedition team said ‘see you later’ to our Everest and Lhotse teams and are on their way towards Makalu! After a pleasant trek to Everest Base Camp and some productive days there spent training and acclimatizing, they headed back down the Khumbu Valley and await their helicopter flight to their base camp. The climbing is set to start soon and everyone is excited for what’s to come! Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from the Pangboche:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Makalu (8463m/27,766ft) expedition – today is April 26.

Yesterday, we departed from Everest Base Camp (5364m/17,598ft). We trekked as far as Everest Base Camp with the main Everest (8848m/29,032ft)-Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) team to acclimatize, then we spent a few days there training and going for hikes, getting some higher altitude. But, yesterday we left and we headed down to Pangboche (3985m/13,074ft). We rested here last night. We’ll spend one more night here tonight, and then if the weather permits, we hope to fly to Makalu Base Camp tomorrow morning!

It’s a beautiful day here – breezy, warm, spring weather. And, we’re really looking forward to heading over to Makalu and getting started with the climbing! So, all is well here in Nepal and we’ll be in touch tomorrow.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions. Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

April 26, 2025/0 Comments/by Garrett

Everest 2025

Puja day in Everest Base Camp!

The Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest and Lhotse expedition teams gathered together today in prayer to ask the mountains for safe passage by way of the Puja ceremony. It was another beautiful day in Everest Base Camp for this important piece of our expeditions! With technical skills review and our Puja ceremony complete, our team plans to descend back down the valley tomorrow towards Lobuche East for our first acclimatization rotation in which we’ll climb to 6119m / 20,075ft. Meanwhile, we’ve said goodby to our Makalu expedition team who is en route to their climbing objective. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison check in with this dispatch from the Himalayas:

Hello! This is Garrett checking in for the Mount Everest (8848m/29,032ft) – Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) team.

We are at Everest Base Camp (5364m/17,598ft)! We’ve had two great days of training back to back out in the Khumbu Icefall on our ice course doing ascending, repelling on fixed-lines – some really fun, engaging terrain out here.

Today, we had our Puja – our sacred, spiritual ceremony where we ask the mountain for safe passage. Our entire Nepalese staff, our Sherpa team, and a Lama came up from down valley to recite the prayers and offer the the gods the chance for us to have safe passage. So, the Puja ceremony went well today. It was a big success, a beautiful day, a very special ceremony. Tomorrow, we’re going to head down to Lobuche (4940m/16,210ft) and do some climbing on Lobuche East Peak (6119m/20,075ft)!

Our Makalu (8463m/27,766ft) team left us after four nights here in Everest Base Camp. Terray, Aga, Alex, and Kristin – they’re down in Pangboche (3985m/13,074ft) and heading over to Makalu Base Camp here in a couple of days by helicopter. So, it’s a smaller crew, we’re sad to see them go, but wishing them a great adventure on their climb. And we’re looking forward to more great weather here at Everest Base Camp! We’ll check in soon.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions. Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

April 25, 2025/0 Comments/by Garrett

Great day of training on the Khumbu Glacier!

Descending fixed lines with the Khumbu Icefall in the distance (photo by Terray Sylvester)

It was an excellent day of training on the Khumbu Glacier! Situated just outside our base camp, our team kitted-up, fueled with a nutritious breakfast, and took to the ice under crystal-clear, blue skies. The team reviewed technical skills that are needed to climb Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu. By reviewing these skills now, the team can move swiftly and efficiently while navigating different sections of the route. Everyone did great, and is looking strong and ready to get the climbing underway! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from Everest Base Camp:

Hello! This is Garrett checking in for the Madison Mountaineering climbing team here at Everest Base Camp (5364m/17,598ft).

Today we did training outside of Everest Base Camp! We set up a course and practiced ascending vertical fixed-lines, descending or repelling vertical lines, and working with out crampons on the ice. It was a glorious day, beautiful views all around. The team did really well, it was a great first day on the ice practicing all of the technical mountaineering skills we’ll need to climb the peak.

All is well here at Everest Base Camp! Everyone’s doing great and we’ll check in soon.

Expedition leader, Garrett Madison working with Chip, one of our climbers (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Guide, Conan Bliss and climber, Susan (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Climbers, Alex and Kristin ascending fixed lines (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Aga, a member of our Makalu team, training on the Khumbu Glacier (photo by Terray Sylvester)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions. Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

April 23, 2025/0 Comments/by Garrett

Everest 2025, Makalu 2025

Skills training in the icefall!

Technical skills review in the lower Khumbu Icefall!

After saying ‘so-long’ to our trekking team today, our Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu teams took to the lower Khumbu Icefall to practice technical skills that they’ll use as they climb different sections of the routes. It was a beautiful day in Everest Base Camp with the sun shining down on us and comfortable temperatures at over 17,000 feet. Nuptse towers high above the team and there are spectacular views in every direction you look – it’s quite the training ground! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from Everest Base Camp:

Hello! This is Garrett checking in from Mount Everest Base Camp (5364m/17,598ft) with our Everest (8848m/29,032ft), Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft), Makalu (8463m/27,766ft) teams – today is April 23rd.

Our trekking team is heading down from base camp to head back to Kathmandu (1400m/4,600ft) after a marvelous trek and a night here at base camp with all of us. The rest of us are settling in, had some showers, good meals, and we’re heading out to do some training in the lower icefall today. So, we’re looking forward to some skills work, technical practice.

Everyone’s doing well here, enjoying some beautiful weather, sunny skies, and just magnificent views all around. All is well here at Everest Base Camp and we’ll check in soon!

Climbers reviewing technical skills under beautiful, blue skies!

Practicing ascending fixed-lines with Nuptse towering high above.

A section of todays training ground with Everest Base Camp behind.

All smiles in Everest Base Camp!

A perfect training ground right out our tent doors!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions. Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

April 23, 2025/0 Comments/by Garrett

Manaslu 2024

Technical training on the Manaslu Glacier

Ming Dorchi, a member of our Sherpa team, working with our climber, Sara. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Manaslu expedition team took to the ice again today for more technical training as they prepare for their first rotation on the mountain. The team has enjoyed great weather so far in base camp, which has offered clear views of the route ahead and the valley we climbed up from just a few days ago. With our Puja ceremony planned for tomorrow, the team is in good spirits and looking forward to what’s still to come! Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from the Himalayas:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Manaslu (8156m/26,759ft) expedition – today is September 9th.

Today we woke up to another beautiful, sunny morning here in base camp (4859m/15,944ft)! So, we walked back up to ‘crampon point’ at the edge of the Manaslu Glacier and spent the morning practicing technical skills on the ice cliffs there. Then we came back down to base camp for lunch and we’ve been relaxing since then! While we were training, we had fantastic views of the upper mountain and the route up to Camp 1 (5700m/18,700ft), Camp 2 (6400m/21,000ft), and on higher on the mountain.

Tomorrow, we are looking forward to our Puja which is the ceremony we hold at the beginning of every expedition to ask the mountain for safe passage while we’re climbing. September 10th is an auspicious day for that according to the Tibetan Buddhist calendar. So, we’ll have a Lama come to camp and hopefully, we have a great ceremony. That’s always a nice way for the team to come together before we start our first acclimatization rotation on the mountain!

So, we will be in touch tomorrow!

Temba, a member of our Sherpa team, hiking to the team’s training location above base camp. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Practicing technical skills on the Manaslu Glacier! (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Excellent views from the trail above base camp. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions. Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

September 9, 2024/0 Comments/by Garrett

Everest 2024

Lobuche Summits!

It comes with great excitement to share that the Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest expedition team has completed their first rotation with 100 percent of the team reaching the summit of Lobuche East! The team has returned to base camp, greeted by additional members who have joined the expedition. All together, we look forward to a second Puja ceremony and our second rotation, this time through the Khumbu Icefall. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from the Himalayas:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft), Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft), Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft) expedition.

Today our team returned from a successful climb of Lobuche Peak (6119m/20,075ft) for training and acclimatization. 100 percent success on the peak, beautiful views, and everyone back safely. A few members of our team have been here in base camp (5364m/17,598ft) with me training the last few days, practicing fixed lines, and tomorrow we’re going to have a Puja ceremony, our second one now that everyone is here together to ask the mountain for safe passage. And then, we’re planning our first rotation up to Camps 1 (6050m/19,849ft), 2 (6500m/21,325ft), and 3 (7230m/23,720ft) shortly.

Everyone’s doing great, it’s been beautiful weather here at Everest Base Camp, and our Sherpa team has been working hard up on the route to Camp 1 and Camp 2 carrying loads. So, all is well here at Mount Everest and we’ll check in soon!

The Madison Mountaineering team ascending fixed lines toward the summit of Lobuche East!

Everest Base Camp sitting below Everest, Lhotse, and Nuptse! (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Sunset views from Everest Base Camp (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions. Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

April 28, 2024/0 Comments/by Garrett

Everest 2024

Lobuche East climb starting soon!

The team during an acclimatization hike on Kala Patthar!

The climbing is about to begin! Our 2024 Himalayan expedition teams have conducted their Puja ceremony, done technical training in the Khumbu Icefall, and are ready for their first rotation. Their first rotation will take place on Lobuche East, another peak near base camp which has less objective hazard than the Khumbu Icefall. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from the Himalayas:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft), Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft), Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft) expedition team. Today, our Everest main team is down at Lobuche Peak (6119m/20,075ft) and leaving in a few hours for the summit of Lobuche East! (They’re) going for the summit early morning, hopefully at sunrise, and then will be back at base camp (6119m/20,075ft) in a couple of days.

Meanwhile, a couple of our climbers were out training in the Khumbu Icefall today practicing ropes and technical climbing with Aang Phurba and myself. Terray and Nelly are back from Annapurna (8091m/26,545ft) doing their climbing and cleanup project. It was a very successful project! Now they’ve just arrived to Everest Base Camp, settling in, and getting ready for Lhotse!

So, all is well here in the Khumbu Valley and on Mount Everest! Our Sherpa team has been carrying loads up to Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft), the weather has been great, and we are excited to continue with the expedition and head up the icefall here in a few days time! We’ll check in soon.

Scene from the team’s Puja Ceremony – an essential piece of our Mount Everest expeditions. (Photo by Courtenay Roche)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions. Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

April 26, 2024/0 Comments/by Garrett

Ama Dablam 2021

Rest Day in Base Camp

Our Ama Dablam team is enjoying their second rest day at base camp after the first rotation. Here’s Garrett with the update:

Hello, this is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Ama Dablam expedition team. Today is November 2nd, we’re at Ama Dablam base camp, and this is our second rest day after our first rotation up on the route where we spent two nights acclimatizing at Camp 1 and climbing up to Camp 2.

Just taking it easy here in base camp. Lots of good food, nice weather, and passing the time by reading some good books, watching movies, and just enjoying the nice views here and the friendly folks around.

So, all good here and we’ll check in soon!

Sunset from Ama Dablam Camp 1

Team member Jonathan E. descending the Ama Dablam route below Camp 2

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions

– Instagram:

– our Garmin inReach Mini powered real-time tracking map:

https://madisonmountaineering.com/maps/ama-dablam-2021/

November 2, 2021/0 Comments/by Garrett

Ama Dablam 2021

Team Back in Base Camp After 1st Rotation

Ama Dablam team at the puja ceremony today

Our Ama Dablam team is back in base camp after completing their 1st acclimatization rotation. Garrett Madison, expedition leader, calls in today’s update:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Ama Dablam expedition team. Today’s October 31st, Halloween and we are back in base camp!

We had a couple of good nights, up on mountain in Camp 1 and we climbed up to Camp 2 yesterday – touched Camp 2. We had some great views up there, fun technical climbing, and good acclimatization – sleeping up at 19,000 ft. at Camp 1.

Today we camp back down to base camp, had a nice lunch, and then did our Puja ceremony with a Buddist Lama monk from Pangboche.

Everyone’s doing well here. We’re just resting and recovering from our time high up on the mountain and looking forward to a few rest days here in base camp.

So, all’s well here at Ama Dablam base camp. We’ll check in soon.

Camp 1 and Ama Dablam

Climbing the Yellow Tower on Ama Dablam below Camp 2

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions

– Instagram:

– our Garmin inReach Mini powered real-time tracking map:

https://madisonmountaineering.com/maps/ama-dablam-2021/

October 31, 2021/0 Comments/by Garrett

Ama Dablam 2021

1st Acclimatization Rotation Continues

Garrett Madison climbing around Ama Dablam Camp 1 and Camp 2

The 1st acclimatization rotation on Ama Dablam continues with the team touching Camp 2 (5980m/19,619ft) and returning to Camp 1 (5791m/19,000ft) for the night. Team member J.B. Waterman provides today’s expedition dispatch:

This is J.B. Waterman on Madison Mountaineering’s Ama Dablam team.

Today was an epic training day – from Camp 1 at 19,000ft to Camp 2 at 20,000ft, across a serrated knife edge ridge, going up vertical walls of granite, to make it to Camp 2, and then turn around and go back.

We’re sleeping at Camp 1 tonight and then we’re gonna head back to base camp for a few days of rest and relaxation and recuperatation, so that we can go to the summit!

It was a great day. Now it’s time to recuperate!