It’s with great excitement to share that the Madison MountaineeringAconcagua expedition team has safely and successfully reached the summit of South America’s highest peak! Leaving from Camp 2 rather than the usual Camp 3, our team made an ambitious push taking advantage of a small window, ultimately getting all boots on the summit, sharing some high-fives and hugs before returning down to lower camps. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from Aconcagua:
Success on Aconcagua (6961m/22,837ft)! With very high winds predicted to start tomorrow, our team took advantage of a brief weather window today and summited via an ambitious push straight from Camp 2 (5522m/18,117ft) instead of the usual start from Camp 3 (5989m/19,650ft). They enjoyed perfect weather on the summit! Now they’re safely back in Camp 2 and looking forward to beginning the journey back to the comforts of Mendoza (746m/2,449ft) tomorrow.
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https://madisonmountaineering.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/01/PHOTO-2023-02-09-09-25-33-4.jpg7681024Garretthttps://madisonmountaineering.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/logomm-300x138.jpgGarrett2024-01-14 22:53:222024-01-15 14:15:42Success on Aconcagua!
Bags are packed and the climb has begun! Our teams left base camp today and are currently on the move up to Camp 1 on Aconcagua. While high winds persist on the mountain, the team is motivated and in good spirits! Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from base camp:
Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison MountaineeringAconcagua (6961m/22,837ft) expeditions that are currently heading up the mountain – today is January 12th.
Right now, we’re just getting our things together for our move up to Camp 1 (5060m/16,600ft). We’ll leave around noon today and spend a few hours, maybe a bit longer, going up to Camp 1. The weather is nice today! Winds continue to be high on the mountain, but today’s been overcast which makes for a pleasant change.
All is well here! We’ll check in via inReach when we get to Camp 1. Right now we have two teams moving up to Camp 1. Our Ojos del Salado (6893m/22,615ft) and Aconcagua combo expedition which is climbing the two highest peaks in South America – we already completed Ojos del Salado, the second-highest peak in South America. As well as our regularly scheduled Aconcagua expedition that began on January 5th.
So, all is well here and we’ll be in touch from Camp 1!
In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:
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It was a busy day in base camp for the Madison MountaineeringAconcagua expedition teams! Three teams crossed paths on their respective expeditions, coming together for a barbecue and socializing before each team goes their separate ways. Blue skies allowed the teams to bask in the sunshine as they prepare to make their way up the mountain. With good weather tomorrow, they’ll be back on the move again up to Camp 1! Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from base camp:
Today three of our expeditions crossed paths here in Plaza de Mulas base camp (4367m/14,327ft) on the west side of the mountain. Our Vallecitos (6120m/20,080ft) and Aconcagua combo came down from Camp 3 (5989m/19,650ft), our Ojos del Salado (6893m/22,615ft) and Aconcagua combo spent a rest day here before moving up to Camp 1 (5060m/16,600ft), and our expedition on our normal itinerary that started on January 5th was doing the same thing today here in base camp.
We had a fantastic asado all together – that’s an Argentinian barbecue. And now we’re just all sitting down to dinner in one of our cozy dome tents.
So tomorrow, the Ojos and Aconcagua combo team and the regular expedition, we will all move up to Camp 1 tomorrow. The weather is fantastic and we’re looking forward to a good day! All is well here in Argentina and we’ll be in touch.
Our three teams on Aconcagua enjoying an asado (barbecue) today in base camp!
Guide Javier “Cacho” Beiza preparing asado!
In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:
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https://madisonmountaineering.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/01/PHOTO-2024-01-11-14-53-30.jpg13662048Garretthttps://madisonmountaineering.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/logomm-300x138.jpgGarrett2024-01-11 22:10:582024-01-11 23:14:32Barbecue in Base Camp!
The Madison MountaineeringOjos del Salado and Aconcagua expedition team has arrived in Plaza de Mulas! Their previous acclimatization in Chile allows them to speed up their ascent, which they’ll look to start in the next day or two. Flying by helicopter today gave the team great views all around and with fresh legs as they unloaded their bags and settled into their tents for the night. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from Plaza de Mulas:
Today we woke up early and drove out of Mendoza (746m/2,449ft), arrived at the Horcones River trailhead here at Aconcagua at about 8:00 AM. Then we hopped on a flight directly here to Plaza de Mulas base camp (4367m/14,327ft), which is base camp on this side of Aconcagua. We had a beautiful flight with excellent views of the famous south face of Aconcagua and the spectacular Horcones River Valley.
Usually, we would have to spend several days hiking up the Horcones River Valley in order to acclimatize to be at Aconcagua base camp. But, since we’ve already climbed Ojos del Salado, we were just able to skip that and fly here directly.
Tomorrow we will either take a rest day or start our ascent up the mountain by moving to Camp 1 (5060m/16,600ft). But, that will depend on the weather forecast.
Alright, all is well here at Aconcagua and we will be in touch tomorrow!
Our climber, Serge, disembarking at base camp (Photo by Terray Sylvester)
Plaza de Mulas base camp during an afternoon hike today (Photo by Terray Sylvester)
In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:
Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions. Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“
https://madisonmountaineering.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/01/PHOTO-2024-01-10-14-06-01.jpg10681600Garretthttps://madisonmountaineering.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/logomm-300x138.jpgGarrett2024-01-10 22:04:532024-01-11 00:53:40Plaza de Mulas by Helicopter!
One summit down, one more to go! The Ojos del Salado and Aconcagua expedition team has touched down in Mendoza, relaxed in the summer sun, ate good food, and are ready to hit the trail once again, this time towards Aconcagua. The team will fly by helicopter tomorrow morning to their base camp, marking the start of their second climb on this special, combo expedition. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from Argentina:
Today we spent a rest day in beautiful, Mendoza (746m/2,449ft)! The temperature was just perfect after being up on the cold, dry Atacama Desert. We relaxed by the pool, packed, and prepared for our flight from the Horcones Valley trailhead to Plaza de Mulas base camp (4367m/14,327ft) tomorrow morning.
It was a beautiful day! We enjoyed the food and wine here in Mendoza and now we’re feeling recharged and ready to take on the highest peak in South America. So, all is well here in Argentina and we will be in touch tomorrow!
The team at our hotel in Mendoza!
Dining in Mendoza!
Fueling up with steak and wine before the upcoming climb!
In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:
Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions. Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“
https://madisonmountaineering.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/01/PHOTO-2024-01-09-16-57-13.jpg12001600Garretthttps://madisonmountaineering.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/logomm-300x138.jpgGarrett2024-01-10 00:53:592024-01-10 02:17:21Ojos del Salado to Aconcagua!
The Madison Mountaineering team continues to relish in the recent memory of their successful climb on the world’s highest volcano, Ojos del Salado! Their next stop takes them to the Chilean coast where they can spend some time relaxing and eating good meals before they start to look ahead to their next objective, Aconcagua. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from Chile:
Yesterday we had a fantastic climb on Ojos del Salado! 100% of the team summited, we had excellent weather to the top of the planet’s highest volcano and South America’s second-highest peak. Right now we are en route to Bahía Inglesa (10m/30ft), a nice little beach resort town on the Chilean coast. We’ll spend the night there and then we’ll start making our way to Mendoza, Argentina (746m/2,449ft) for our next climb, Aconcagua, the highest peak in South America.
All is well here and we’ll be in touch tomorrow!
Dawn on the slopes of Ojos del Salado at about 6,200 meters above sea level (Photo by Terray Sylvester)
In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:
Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions. Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“
https://madisonmountaineering.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/01/PHOTO-2024-01-07-13-38-48.jpg9601440Garretthttps://madisonmountaineering.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/logomm-300x138.jpgGarrett2024-01-07 21:49:142024-01-08 03:30:41From the mountains to the coast!
Cumbre! We’re thrilled to announce the Madison Mountaineering team’s recent success on Aconcagua (6961m/22,837ft) – the first of five expeditions this season!
Reaching the summit on December 19, the team battled through windy weather conditions throughout the expedition. Their hard work, determination, and well-thought-out strategy put them in a position to make a summit push when a window presented itself. While many other teams and climbers on the mountain were unable to reach the summit, our team persevered and earned themselves a spot on top of South America’s highest peak, and one of the famed ‘seven summits!’
We’re very proud of the teams’ efforts and look forward to the expeditions ahead now that everyone is off the mountain. Strong work, team!
Climbing with beautiful views of the surrounding Andes!
Sunset from one of the team’s camps on Aconcagua.
Climber, Matthew Russell on the summit of Aconcagua!
Climbing amongst penitentes.
Climber, Matthew Russell descending with a heavy pack down the mountain.
360-degree views of the surrounding Andes from high on Aconcagua!
Guide, Cacho Beiza cooking up a warm meal!
Celebrating back in base camp!
Beautiful weather after an unforgettable climb on South America’s highest peak!
In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:
Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions. Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“
The 2023 / 2024 Madison MountaineeringAconcagua (6961m/22,837ft) season is off in Argentina! We are thrilled to be back in the Andes and on the trail with our eyes set on the highest peak in all of the Americas, Aconcagua. After a long day of traveling, our climbers touched down in Mendoza (746m/2,449ft) and were picked up by private transportation and dropped off at the team hotel. After some rest, the team came together for the first time completing a gear check and orientation, before heading out for dinner and later going to bed with departure for the trailhead scheduled for the following day.
The team awoke to blue skies and pleasant temperatures as they loaded the truck and hit the road towards Los Horcones, the gateway to Aconcagua. We’ve arrived in Plaza de Mulas (4367m/14,327ft) which will serve as our base camp on Aconcagua, and are getting ready to continue on up the mountain to Camp Canada (5060m/16,600ft).
The team is doing well and are in good spirits! We hope for good weather in the coming days as we continue to ascend the highest peak outside of Asia.
Stay tuned for more!
Madison Mountaineering private transportation loaded up and ready to go!
Dawning packs and hitting the trail en route to Aconcagua!
In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:
Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions. Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“
https://madisonmountaineering.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/PHOTO-2023-12-08-14-30-10.jpg12001600Garretthttps://madisonmountaineering.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/logomm-300x138.jpgGarrett2023-12-13 21:06:492023-12-13 21:06:49Aconcagua season is underway!
We had great climbs of Everest (May 24th) and Lhotse (May 25th). The conditions were the best I’ve ever had on summit day; warm, calm, and hardly any other climbers on the route. We had the summit all to ourselves for over an hour. In addition to eight clients, four guides, and 15 Nepal Sherpas reaching the summit of Everest, we had three clients, two guides, and three Sherpas reach the summit of Lhotse the following day. Peter Horsman became the first Dutchman, Debbie Bulten became the first Canadian woman, and Danah Ali became the first Emirati to complete the Everest & Lhotse peak to peak combination.
Unfortunately, on the way down from Camp 4 on May 25th at 7500m, one of our climbers, Pieter Swart passed away in the evening from a rapid onset lung infection / pulmonary edema. Guides, Terray Sylvester & Scott Webster spent the entire day with him assisting in his descent, joined by myself and Cacho Beiza from 1:00 pm onwards after our Lhotse climb, as we attempted to descend with him down to Camp 3 where a helicopter rescue might be possible. We will remember him fondly for his kindness and enthusiasm towards our team and for living life to the fullest.
At this time, our focus is working with the Nepalese agencies to support Pieter’s family and our team as we conclude our expedition here in Nepal.
To higher places,
Garrett Madison
In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:
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We are thrilled to announce that the 2023 Madison MountaineeringMount Everest expedition team has successfully reached the summit of the tallest mountain on Earth, and safely returned to their tents at Camp 4! The team all reached the top between 10:30 AM and 12:00 PM NPT (local time) and enjoyed a magnificent summit day complete with sunshine, little wind, great route conditions, and the route (mostly) to themselves.
Congratulations to the team and and a heartfelt thank you goes out to our rockstar Sherpa team and support staff! This incredible feat would not be possible without them.
Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with today’s dispatch as he tries to find the words for a truly special day on Mount Everest:
Hello! This is Garrett calling in from the South Col (7900m/25,919ft) for the Madison MountaineeringEverest (8848m/29,032ft) and Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) expedition team. We had a great summit today on Mount Everest! Best summit day ever that I can remember.
We started about 2:00 AM after a brief snowstorm here on the South Col, made our way up the triangular face to the balcony, up to the south summit, and up to the top of the world – summit of Mount Everest, about 9:30 – 10:00 AM. It was a glorious day! The best conditions and best route conditions that I can remember, perfect weather. It was warm, hardly any wind, hardly any other climbers on the mountain. We spent about two hours total, some of us, after summit just basking in the views, warmth and enjoying being at the top of Mount Everest. So, we had eight clients, four guides and 15 Nepal Sherpas get to the top today, including Aang Phurba Sherpa. And now, we’re all back safe in Camp 4 (7900m/25,919ft)!
Our plan is to go to bed, we just had some dinner. Some of us are going to wake up in a few hours, and head off to climb Lhotse – a neighboring peak of Mount Everest, the fourth highest mountain in the world.
So, the perfect summit day! (I) can’t believe how lucky we were, it was so nice up there. So lucky in so many ways! It was a glorious day and glad we’re all back safe.
Tomorrow some of us will go to Lhotse, the rest of us down to Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft), and the following day down to base camp (5364m/17,598ft). All is well here on Everest! Check in soon.
In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:
Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions. Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“
https://madisonmountaineering.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/PHOTO-2022-05-13-00-39-26-Everests-South-Summit.jpg355766Garretthttps://madisonmountaineering.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/logomm-300x138.jpgGarrett2023-05-24 13:43:302023-05-24 15:26:58Top of the World!