Tag Archive for: Kathmandu

Himalayan Expeditions Underway!

The first wave of Madison Mountaineering climbers! (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

The 2023 Madison Mountaineering spring Himalayan season is officially underway! After settling into the Yak and Yeti hotel and resting up after their long flights, members of the team greeted each other over a welcome dinner and retreated back to their rooms for more rest and relaxation for the days ahead. With gear checks complete and bags repacked for the expedition, the anticipation is really starting to set in for the team, who with good weather tomorrow, will fly to Lukla and start making their trek towards Everest Base Camp! Expedition guide, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from Kathmandu:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the 2023 Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft), Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft), and Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft) expedition.

All of our climbers who will be part of our first wave going into the Khumbu have arrived here in Kathmandu (1400m/4,600ft)! We had a great welcome dinner last night, and then today our climbers headed out for a city tour! We visited Pashupatinath Temple and Boudhanath Stupa. Pashupati is a Unesco World Heritage site and the most important Hindu temple in the city. And, the Boudhanath Stupa is one of the largest Buddhist stupa’s in the world – it dates back to the fourth century.

So, today our team is relaxing in Kathmandu and we’re looking forward to our flights to Lukla via helicopter early tomorrow morning. The weathers great, really sunny and beautiful here in Kathmandu and we’re looking forward to those mountain views tomorrow. We’ll be in touch!

Boudhanath Stupa (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Boudhanath Stupa (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climbers taking the sights, sounds, and smells during the city tour on April 3, 2023 (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climbers taking in the sights, sounds, and smells during the city tour on April 3, 2023 (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Sightseeing around Kathmandu (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Sightseeing around Kathmandu (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

One of the many forms of transportation in Kathmandu! (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

One of the many forms of transportation in Kathmandu! (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Unclimbed Peak Expedition Wrap Up!

Summit photo after a historic first ascent!

The Madison Mountaineering unclimbed peak expedition has come to its conclusion with our team departing back to their homes, excitedly knowing that their attempt at this historic first ascent proved to be successful! Congratulations to the entire team, and a big thanks to our amazing sherpa team – this effort would not be possible without them. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this recap of making the first ascent of this previously unclimbed peak:

Our Unclimbed peak expedition was a huge success! Going into one of these unknown areas to climb a peak never before attempted by anyone always raises the level of uncertainty we face. It takes a ‘can do’ attitude and the necessary experience to arrive, work through the process in figuring out the route, etc.

There is always some luck involved, we were very fortunate to have decent weather, and a crack Sherpa team that was integral to our success.

Having climbed Ama Dablam just before allowed us to acclimatize and ready ourselves for this project. We had a certain amount of ‘mountain fitness’ which was key.

Utilizing a helicopter allowed us to go directly from Ama Dablam base camp to the base of the peak. From there we established one high camp, although we had to wait a couple of days while it snowed heavily.

Once the skies cleared, we got underway and made good progress, then started our summit day early on the 14th of November leaving base camp at 2:30 AM. About 12 hours later we stood on the summit. It was a glorious day and the achievement was a sweet one, especially given the camaraderie and spirit of teamwork that made it all possible thanks to our amazing Sherpa team.

We look forward to another ‘Unclimbed Peak’ expedition next year!

In exploration,

Garrett Madison

Our 'first ascent' line up the peak. Photo: Ted Hesser

Our ‘first ascent’ line up the peak. Photo: Ted Hesser

Climbers high in the alpine on the unclimbed peak. Photo: Ted Hesser

Climbers high in the alpine on the unclimbed peak. Photo: Ted Hesser

Climbers high in the alpine on the unclimbed peak. Photo: Ted Hesser

Climbers high in the alpine on the unclimbed peak. Photo: Ted Hesser

The peak rising out of the clouds. Photo: Ted Hesser

The peak rising out of the clouds. Photo: Ted Hesser

The team at the summit of the previously unclimbed peak! Photo: Ted Hesser

The team at the summit of the previously unclimbed peak! Photo: Ted Hesser

Celebrating back in Kathmandu!

Celebrating back in Kathmandu!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Success on the Unclimbed Peak!

The Madison Mountaineering expedition team is back in base camp and returning to Lukla today after a safe and successful expedition on the Unclimbed Peak! More details to come of their historic ascent… Here’s a brief message from expedition leader, Garrett Madison:

Just back in base camp from a successful climb of the unclimbed / unnamed peak. Flying out tomorrow morning to Lukla – Kathmandu.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Ama Dablam Expedition Conclusion

Departing base camp. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Our 2022 Ama Dablam expedition has come to its conclusion! 17 total members of the Madison Mountaineering team reached the summit of Ama Dablam, and are making their journeys home. Expedition lead, Garrett Madison, and a few of our climbers and sherpa team will continue their journey towards an unclimbed peak in the Himalaya, heading into the unknown for a chance at a first ascent! Expedition guide, Terray Sylvester checks in with one final dispatch from the 2022 Madison Mountaineering Ama Dablam expedition:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the 2022 Madison Mountaineering Ama Dablam (6812m/22,349ft) expedition – it’s  Friday, November 11th.

Our expedition has wrapped up! Our clients have departed from Ama Dablam base camp (4600m/15,100ft) – some of them decided to helicopter directly from base camp to Kathmandu (1400m/4,600ft). So, they arrived here in the capitol of Nepal a couple of days ago. Two of our clients decided to enjoy a pleasant hike down the Khumbu Valley. Those guests flew from Lukla (2860m/9,383ft) via fixed wing to Kathmandu yesterday.

So, we had one last celebratory dinner here in Kathmandu last night and people are starting to take their flights home.

All in all, we had a very successful expedition! 17 total members of our team reached the summit of Ama Dablam – that was eight of our climbers, plus two guides and seven members of our sherpa team. We had absolutely excellent weather and route conditions for that climb!

So from here, Garrett and two of our climbers from Ama Dablam as well as members of our sherpa team are turning their attention to an unclimbed peak (~6000m/20,000ft) here in the Nepal, Himalaya. If you’d like to stay up to date on how that climb is progressing, please just keep an eye on the dispatches here on the website! We’ll be in touch.

Guide, Hannah Smith in the excellent bakery in Phakding while trekking out from base camp!

Guide, Hannah Smith in the excellent bakery in Phakding while trekking out from base camp!

Guide, Hannah Smith with our climbers Mandy and Andrea in Namche Bazaar while trekking out from base camp.

Guide, Hannah Smith with our climbers Mandy and Andrea in Namche Bazaar while trekking out from base camp.

Our climber, Serge, preparing to fly out of base camp. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Our climber, Serge, preparing to fly out of base camp. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Ama Dablam base camp just before we packed it up and departed. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Ama Dablam base camp just before we packed it up and departed. Photo: Terray Sylvester

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Madison Mountaineering 2022 Ama Dablam Summiteers List

The 2022 Madison Mountaineering team on the summit of Ama Dablam! Photo: Terray Sylvester

The sun has set on a beautiful 2022 Madison Mountaineering Ama Dablam expedition! Our team experienced lots of successes and summits over the course of the last few weeks in the Himalaya. Most importantly, everyone is off the mountain safely and in Kathmandu, or the comforts of their own home.

A few climbers are now heading off to make an attempt on an unclimbed ~6000m/20,000ft peak nearby for a chance to etch their names into the mountaineering history books!

We are pleased to announce the following Madison Mountaineering team members successfully obtained the summit of Ama Dablam (6812m/22,349ft) on November 5th, 2022 at approximately 9:00 AM NPT (local time):

# Name
1 Garrett Madison
2 Terray Sylvester
3 Aang Phurba Sherpa
4 Alix Sanche Mayer
5 Stephane Mayer
6 Jocelyn Cayer
7 Rich Draves
8 Serge Larouche
9 Krisli Melesk
10 Chhiring Bhote
11 Dawa Sherpa
12 Chettan Dorje Sherpa
13 Jangbu Sherpa
14 Ming Dorchi Sherpa
15 Shere Thapa Magar
Tenzi Sherpa at Camp 3. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Tenzi Sherpa at Camp 3. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Expedition leader, Garrett Madison climbing between camps 1 and 2. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Expedition leader, Garrett Madison climbing between camps 1 and 2. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Our climber, Serge, in the Gray Couloir above Camp 2. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Our climber, Serge, in the Gray Couloir above Camp 2. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Garrett Madison and Aang Phurba Sherpa on the summit! Photo: Terray Sylvester

Garrett Madison and Aang Phurba Sherpa on the summit! Photo: Terray Sylvester

Our climber, Serge, on the Mushroom Ridge below Camp 3. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Our climber, Serge, on the Mushroom Ridge below Camp 3. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Camp 2. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Camp 2. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Our climber, Alix, on the summit! Photo: Terray Sylvester

Our climber, Alix, on the summit! Photo: Terray

Our climbers, Alix, Jocelyn and Alex taking off from base camp. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Our climbers, Alix, Jocelyn and Alex taking off from base camp. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Our climber, Jocelyn, climbing toward the summit above Camp 3. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Our climber, Jocelyn, climbing toward the summit above Camp 3. Photo: Terray Sylvester

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Perfect Weather On the Way to Namche!

Sirdar and Guide, Aang Phurba Sherpa crossing the famous suspension bridge below Namche with Guide, Hannah Smith. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Today, the team arrived in Namche Bazaar under crisp, clear blue skies. Namche is the main hub of the Khumbu region, and the biggest village climbers and trekkers alike will visit on their way further up the valley. Terray Sylvester checks in with todays dispatch:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Ama Dablam (6812m/22,349ft) expedition – it’s October 22nd.

Today we walked from Phakding (2610m/8,562ft) to Namche Bazaar (3440m/11,290ft). We had another day of excellent weather. When we arrived in Namche we enjoyed a coffee at Sherpa Barista. Tomorrow we plan to take a rest day here in Namche.

So all is well in Nepal! We’ll be in touch tomorrow.

Walking from Phakding to Namche. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Walking from Phakding to Namche. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Expedition Leader, Garrett Madison giving the morning briefing. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Expedition Leader, Garrett Madison giving the morning briefing. Photo: Terray Sylvester

The team arriving in Namche. Photo: Terray Sylvester

The team arriving in Namche. Photo: Terray Sylvester

The team in Jorsale. Photo: Terray Sylvester

The team in Jorsale. Photo: Terray Sylvester

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Into the Himalayas!

Our team in Phakding. Photo: Terray Sylvester

The team had spectacular flying conditions today with views of the towering Himalayas before landing in Lukla! Upon their arrival, a few moments were spent in town before hitting the trail and heading to their next stop, Phakding. Expedition guide, Terray Sylvester checks in with todays dispatch:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Ama Dablam (6812m/22,349ft) expedition – it’s October 21st.

Today we had excellent weather for our helicopter flights from Kathmandu (1400m/4,600ft) to Lukla (2860m/9,383ft). Our entire Ama Dablam team plus our Everest Base Camp trekkers touched down in Lukla at about 2,900 meters in, yeah, just beautiful weather with excellent views of the mountains to the north. We had a great view of Everest (8848m/29,032ft) and Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) just before we touched down.

Then we hiked to Phakding (2610m/8,562ft). We’ve had a relaxing evening here with a walk up to the monastery above town. We just wrapped up dinner and we’re looking forward to a nice peaceful night, with the sound of the Dudh Koshi River below us.

We’ll be in touch tomorrow!

Inbound to Lukla. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Inbound to Lukla. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Climbers Jocelyn, Serge, Stephane and Alix after touching down in Lukla! Photo: Terray Sylvester

Climbers Jocelyn, Serge, Stephane and Alix after touching down in Lukla! Photo: Terray Sylvester

Walking to Phakding. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Walking to Phakding. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Visiting the monastery above Phakding. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Visiting the monastery above Phakding. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Ama Dablam climber, Stephane en route to the helicopter pad. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Ama Dablam climber, Stephane en route to the helicopter pad. Photo: Terray Sylvester

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Ama Dablam Expedition Underway!

Team dinner in Kathmandu!

The 2022 Madison Mountaineering Ama Dablam expedition has officially begun! The team all arrived in Kathmandu today, excited for the journey ahead. After arriving at the Yak and Yeti hotel, our team held a gear check and orientation to go over details of the expedition. With good weather tomorrow, the team will fly to Lukla and continue on their way towards Ama Dablam. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison, checks in from Kathmandu with todays dispatch:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Ama Dablam (6812m/22,349ft) expedition 2022 – today is October 20th.

The team is all in Kathmandu (1400m/4,600ft)! We had our gear checks today, had an orientation, talked through logistics, the itinerary and just finished our team dinner! Everyone’s feeling good and pumped to fly up to the Khumbu Valley tomorrow to Lukla (2860m/9,383ft), and start our trek along the way to base camp. So fingers crossed for good flying weather tomorrow morning! Hopefully we’ll be in Lukla for breakfast and on our way.

We’ll check in soon!

Gear check at the Yak and Yeti hotel - the climbers classic!

Gear check at the Yak and Yeti hotel – the climbers classic!

Expedition leader, Garrett Madison and guide, Terray Sylvester picking up the Ama Dablam climbing permits!

Expedition leader, Garrett Madison and guide, Terray Sylvester picking up the Ama Dablam climbing permits!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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More Strong Climbers Joining the Expedition!

Mules laden with supplies on the trail to base camp. (📸: Terray Sylvester)

Today, our second wave of climbers made the helicopter flight from Kathmandu to Samagaun – we’re excited to have them join us in base camp in the next few days! The team already settled into base camp is resting and preparing for their move up to Camp 1. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester, checks in from Manaslu base camp:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the 2022 Madison Mountaineering Manaslu (8156m/26,759ft) expedition – it’s September 14th.

Today, our second wave of climbers took a helicopter from Kathmandu (1400m/4,600ft) to Samagaun (3530m/11,581ft). They plan to acclimatize there and then move up to base camp (4859m/15,944ft), hopefully soon. Meanwhile in base camp, our other climber has been resting after acclimatizing for the move to Camp 1 (5700m, 18,700ft).

So, all is well here! We just finished dinner, are watching a movie and are heading to bed soon. We’ll be in touch!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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The Journey Continues into the Mountains!

Photo taken from Madison Mountaineering archive.

Today, the team departed from the lowlands of Kathmandu Valley and arrived at the next stop on their way to Manaslu (8163m/26,781ft)! The helicopter flight to Samagoan (3530m/11,581ft) followed a beautiful river up through a gorge, passing many waterfalls along the way. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester, checks in with today’s dispatch from Kathmandu (1400m/4,600ft):

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the 2022 Madison Mountaineering Manaslu expedition – today is September 2nd.

Today we took a helicopter from Kathmandu to the village of Samagoan at about 11,500 feet. It was a beautiful flight with fantastic views of waterfalls and the spectacular gorge of the Budhi Gandaki River. We’ll spend a few days acclimatizing here and then we’ll move up to base camp (4,800m/15,750ft) – just a days walk away from us.

So, all is well here! We’ll be in touch.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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