The Madison Mountaineering expedition team is back in base camp and returning to Lukla today after a safe and successful expedition on the Unclimbed Peak! More details to come of their historic ascent… Here’s a brief message from expedition leader, Garrett Madison:
Just back in base camp from a successful climb of the unclimbed / unnamed peak. Flying out tomorrow morning to Lukla – Kathmandu.
In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:
Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions. Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“
https://madisonmountaineering.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/Unclimbed-peak-2022-pdf.jpg13651820Garretthttps://madisonmountaineering.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/logomm-300x138.jpgGarrett2022-11-14 14:26:542022-11-15 05:15:02Success on the Unclimbed Peak!
The Madison MountaineeringAma Dablam climbers who made the summit on November 5th have safely descended to base camp and are waiting to greet their fellow teammates who plan to arrive tomorrow. The summit team who had planned to make their summit push earlier in the day, were turned around due to high winds on the upper mountain – unusual for the smooth conditions they’ve had so far on this expedition. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this brief update:
Our main team is down in base camp (4600m/15,100ft) and all good. Our 3 climbers who attempted the summit (6812m/22,349ft) today with Hannah turned back due to high winds. They are in camp 1 (5791m/19,000ft) now and will descend to base camp tomorrow.
In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:
Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions. Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“
https://madisonmountaineering.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/PHOTO-2022-10-28-08-06-17.jpg10601600Garretthttps://madisonmountaineering.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/logomm-300x138.jpgGarrett2022-11-06 13:35:292022-11-06 17:50:24Safely Returning to Base Camp!
The first members of the Madison MountaineeringAma Dablam team have reached the summit and safely returned to Camp 1! The other members of our team still on the upper mountain are making their summit push right now! Everyone is looking forward to being safely back in base camp and the celebration that follows. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison, checks in via Garmin inReach Mini with an update from Camp 1:
Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Ama Dablam (6812m/22,349ft) expedition team – today is November 5th.
We had a great summit day today – clear skies, calm winds, great views all around! About two-thirds of the team left from Camp 3 (6277m/20,594 ft) this morning – it was 4:00 AM and we reached the top around 9:00 AM, and we made our way back down to Camp 1 (5791m/19,000ft). The other third of our team moved up from Camp 2 (5980m/19,619ft) to Camp 3 today, and they will be going for the summit tomorrow morning, early. Fingers crossed they will have good weather and route conditions, but everyone’s doing well!
We’re just so thrilled that we had an amazing summit day, great weather and conditions all around. It’s been a great expedition! We’re looking forward to getting down to base camp tomorrow and then joining up with the rest of our team the following day for celebration! We’ll check in soon.
In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:
Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions. Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“
https://madisonmountaineering.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/PHOTO-2022-10-31-12-02-34.jpg10661600Garretthttps://madisonmountaineering.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/logomm-300x138.jpgGarrett2022-11-05 13:48:472022-11-06 00:21:30Summit Success on Ama Dablam!
This afternoon, the team arrived in Ama Dablams’ Camp 1 under beautiful, clear skies! After enjoying a hot meal and filling up water bottles with hot water to make for a make shift sauna when stuffed in the bottom of your sleeping bag, the team is prepared to continue up the mountain towards Camp 2 or 3 tomorrow. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison, checks in with an update from Ama Dablam:
Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison MountaineeringAma Dablam (6812m/22,349ft) expedition team – today is Thursday, November 3rd and we have arrived at Camp 1 (5791m/19,000ft) on our summit rotation.
We left base camp (4600m/15,100ft) today at 10:00 AM and got up to Camp 1 between 3:00 and 4:00 PM, settled into our tents, had dinner, filled up our water bottles with hot water for the long and cold night ahead. We’re just tucking in now, getting ready to go to sleep.
Great weather up here! Everyone’s doing well on the team and we’re excited for tomorrow. We’re going to be pushing up to Camp 2 (5980m/19,619ft) and quite possibly Camp 3 (6277m/20,594 ft) [inaudible]. We’re looking at a potential summit the next day, November 5th or 6th.
Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions. Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“
Today, the team started their summit rotation on Ama Dablam! The team is healthy and in good spirits with hopes to make the summit in the coming days. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with todays dispatch from Ama Dablam:
We are heading up from base camp (4600m/15,100ft) to begin our summit rotation! We’ve had a nice couple of rest days here and lots of good food, watching movies, hanging out, recharging. And today we’re gonna head up to Camp 1 (5791m/19,000ft) and tomorrow Camp 2 (5980m/19,619ft) or 3 (6277m/20,594 ft), and then go for the summit! So, hopefully we’ll summit around November 5th or 6th, be back in base camp a day or so after. And then, some of us will be heading towards an unclimbed peak in Nepal!
Weather’s looking great! The route conditions are looking great. The team is strong and healthy, so we’re excited for this opportunity and looking forward to getting our climb underway!
We’ll check in soon.
In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:
Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions. Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“
The Madison Mountaineering team has returned from their first rotation on Ama Dablam, experiencing perfect conditions and reaching Camp 2 before returning to base camp. Over the next few days, the team will rest up and continue to prepare for their summit push. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison, checks in with todays dispatch from Ama Dablam base camp:
Hello and Happy Halloween! This is Garrett calling in for the Ama Dablam (6812m/22,349ft) expedition team – today’s October 31st.
Today we descended from Camp 1 (5791m/19,000ft) to our base camp (4600m/15,100ft) here at Ama Dablam. We had a great rotation – spent a couple of nights up at Camp 1 and climbed up to Camp 2 (5980m/19,619ft) yesterday. Beautiful weather, great views all around, the team did awesome and enjoyed the fun mixed climbing on the southwest ridge – mostly rock, but a little snow. Hung out at Camp 2 for a bit yesterday, had some lunch and then descended back to Camp 1. We’re all back down in base camp now!
Gina is heading up for her summit attempt. She’s at Camp 1 tonight, but the rest of us are hanging out here in base camp, resting up and gonna make our plan for a summit attempt here over the next few days.
All is well here at base camp!
All smiles during the first rotation!
Above the clouds on Ama Dablam.
The Madison Mountaineering team on the famed ‘yellow tower!’
In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:
Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions. Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“
https://madisonmountaineering.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/PHOTO-2022-10-31-09-53-29-1.jpg6161024Garretthttps://madisonmountaineering.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/logomm-300x138.jpgGarrett2022-10-31 16:46:442022-10-31 18:22:01Perfect Conditions on the First Rotation!
The team awoke this morning to kick off their first rotation under crystal clear, blue bird skies with plans to spend a few nights up in Camp 1. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with a dispatch from Ama Dablam base camp:
We are heading up to Camp 1 (5791m/19,000ft) today and have a perfect day – great weather, team’s doing awesome. We’re excited to get up there for a couple of nights to acclimatize and climb up on the route towards Camp 2 (5980m/19,619ft), and then we’ll be back down in base camp (4600m/15,100ft) to rest up before our summit push.
So, all good here in base camp! Everyone’s doing well. Beautiful weather – just solid, blue bird days, sunshine every day. Just feeling so lucky for this great weather and happy to be here.
Check in soon!
In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:
Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions. Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“
https://madisonmountaineering.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/PHOTO-2022-10-28-08-06-17.jpg10601600Garretthttps://madisonmountaineering.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/logomm-300x138.jpgGarrett2022-10-29 04:09:382022-10-29 16:48:46Fantastic Weather for the First Rotation!
The team has arrived in base camp and is all set to begin their first rotation tomorrow! Over the course of the last few days, the team’s spent their time relaxing, doing trainings, sorting gear, acclimatizing, and taking part in a puja ceremony. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in from base camp with todays dispatch:
We arrived in base camp (4600m/15,100ft) a couple of nights ago, had a nice trek up here and base camp’s just been a great place to move into, relax, enjoy – the team’s doing well! We did some training, some gear sorting after we got here, and an acclimatization hike. Today, we did our puja ceremony!
Our plan is to head up to Camp 1 (5791m/19,000ft) for a couple of nights, starting tomorrow on our first rotation. It’ll be good to get up higher, acclimatize and check out some of the climbing route from Camp 1 to Camp 2 (5980m/19,619ft). We’ll be back down in a few days!
Everyone’s doing well! We’ll check in soon. Thanks!
Acclimatizing above base camp! Photo: Terray Sylvester
Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions. Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“
https://madisonmountaineering.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/PHOTO-2022-10-28-07-52-33.jpg10521600Garretthttps://madisonmountaineering.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/logomm-300x138.jpgGarrett2022-10-28 10:53:552022-10-28 15:36:50Primed for First Rotation!
The team made a visit to the Khumbu Climbing Center (KCC) today. The KCC’s mission is to “increase the safety margin of Nepali climbers and high altitude workers by encouraging responsible climbing practices in a supportive and community-based program.” Afterwards, the team trekked on to Pangboche, where they’ll spend the night and prepare to move on to Ama Dablam base camp tomorrow! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with todays dispatch:
We are in Pangboche (3985m/13,074ft)! Started off in Deboche (3820m/12,532ft) this morning and we crossed the river and hiked up to Phortse (3840m, 12,598ft) where we visited the Khumbu Climbing Center – wonderful building! After that we trekked up the valley to Pangboche where we’re spending the night. Tomorrow our plan is to head up to Ama Dablam base camp (4600m/15,100ft).
We’re doing well here. The weather’s just been spectacular – perfect blue bird, sunny skies everyday! We’re feeling very lucky and excited to get to base camp.
The team trekking from Phortse to Pangboche with great views of Ama Dablam. Photo: Terray Sylvester
The Khumbu Climbing Center. Photo: Terray Sylvester
Rare, vintage climbing books in the KCC. Photo: Terray Sylvester
Hiking to Phortse. Photo: Terray Sylvester
Our climbers, Tracy and Rock, trekking to Phortse. Photo: Terray Sylvester
In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:
Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions. Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“
Yesterday our private team on Ama Dablam reached the summit with a clear sky and calm winds. They had the whole mountain to themselves and savored the views from up on the summit of the surrounding peaks Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu, and many others.
It’s been a pleasure to follow their smooth progress during the past 2 weeks, they had great route conditions and weather throughout the expedition. We are very proud of them all for their safe and successful climb of Ama Dablam! Way to go team!
For climbers interested in learning more about our private expeditions please contact our office.
