Tag: 7 Summits
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Today our climbing team made a safe descent to Camp 2 on Everest and will be arriving into base camp tomorrow. After resting at Camp 4 last night the team enjoyed warm drinks and food after their successful summit. All team members are in good health and look forward to hot showers and thicker air back at base camp. We are expecting the whole team to arrive early afternoon and we will have a celebration in order here at our camp. I will have more pictures up tomorrow and look forward to hearing the team tell of their journey to the top of the world!
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What a day!! Our climbers are now resting at Camp 4 at 7,950m (26,085ft) on Everest after their successful summit bid earlier today. The weather was perfect and the views from what I hear were nothing short of spectacular. Tonight the team will rest on oxygen before descending to Camp 2 tomorrow. Our Lhotse team is waiting and will not make an ascent tonight due to uncertain route conditions. The current plan is to descend together tomorrow and re-evaluate Lhotse conditions before making a decision. All members are in good health and have accomplished what many dream of today.
Will have pictures and videos up as soon as possible! 🙂
Just moments ago our full climbing team successfully summited Everest at 8,850m (29,035ft)!! It is a spectacular day here with no wind or clouds in sight. 15 Sherpa, 7 climbers (Jim, Joel, Stuart, Nick, Lisa, Ankur, Jeff) and 5 guides (Garrett, Billy, Conan, Fred, Brent) are together at the top. The sun is shining and we are so very happy that our climbers have made it to the top of the world. Our team will take in the views and enjoy the moment before making the descent back down to Camp 2.
Garrett, Lisa, and Stuart will be climbing Lhotse today as well which continues the excitement. The Lhotse fixed lines were finished last night and our team will rest for a few hours at Camp 4 before making this second ascent.
Stay tuned, pictures to come!! 🙂
Just minutes ago our climbers departed Camp 4 at 7,950m (26,085ft) and began their 2016 Everest summit bid. The team spent the night at the South Col after battling heavy winds on the ascent yesterday. Now well rested having been on oxygen all day, they are ready to begin their push to the top of the world. We will be up all night monitoring the team’s progress throughout the ascent.
Yesterday we had very unusual weather here at Everest Base Camp, snowfall with heavy winds accompanied by a thunderstorm. Our wifi network was knocked offline until early this morning. Tonight the conditions are looking great for our team with low winds and no precipitation on the forecast. We are very excited here and I will update this dispatch tomorrow morning.
To the top!
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The Everest climbing team is safely tucked in for the night at the South Col (Camp 4)! Listen to Garrett’s sat phone audio dispatch:
Hey, this is Garrett Madison calling in from the Everest climbing team. Today is Tuesday, May 17th at 9:30PM and we are tucked in here at the South Col. We moved up from Camp 3 to Camp 4 today. The weather forecast did not play out the way it was supposed to. It was supposed to be a nice, sunny day. But uh, it turned into a very blustery day with high winds and some precipitation in the form of snow coming down. Our plan is to rest tomorrow. Hopefully the weather improves and we can make a summit attempt on the evening of the 18th and hopefully get up to the top the morning of the 19th. So, everyone is doing well. We are all tucked in here at the South Col trying to stay warm and enjoying being here at 26,000 feet. All is well and we’ll check in again soon. Thanks!
Garrett called in via sat phone from Everest Camp 3 on the Lhoste face (7230m/23,720ft) to report:
Hey this is Garrett calling in for the Everest team. Today is May 16th, it’s 5:00PM and we are up at Camp 3! Everyone’s doing great and we are tucked in here getting ready to have dinner and go to bed. Tomorrow we are going to head up to Camp 4 on the South Col. We are on schedule for a summit of May 18th. The weather is looking good. And hopefully Lhotse May 19th! So we are just keeping an eye on the weather and moving up the mountain slowly here. Everyone is doing well and we’ll check in soon.
Early tomorrow morning our climbing team will have the much anticipated departure toward Camp 3 at 7,200m (23,625ft). After spending a few days at Camp 2 waiting for the weather to materialize we are all very excited here for our team’s movement up the mountain. The team is in good health and spirits with bags packed and ready to go. Weather forecasts are looking positive for our summit date of May 18 or 19, seems to be changing between the two days as we receive new weather data. The 18th has higher humidity with lower winds while the 19th has lower humidity but slightly higher winds at 20-30 kilometer’s per hour. Tomorrow our team will reach Camp 3 and spend the night on oxygen.
Happy Birthday to Fred, our virtual reality camera man and guide! He enjoyed a mountain birthday up high at Camp 2 today.
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Beautiful image taken of our climbers!
Denali, also known as Mount McKinley, is the highest mountain peak in North America, with a summit elevation of 20,310 feet (6,190 m) above sea level. Making it one of the notorious ’7 Summits’ around the world. At an altitude of 18,000 ft (5,500 m), the base-to-peak rise is the largest of any mountain situated entirely above sea level. With a topographic prominence of 20,156 feet (6,144 m) and a topographic isolation of 4,629 miles (7,450 km), Denali is the third most prominent and third most isolated peak after Mount Everest and Aconcagua. Located in the Alaska Range in the interior of the U.S. state of Alaska, Denali is the centerpiece of Denali National Park and Preserve. A extraordinary expedition that will bring in seasoned climbers from around the world.
We recommend that all of our Denali climbers make numerous ascents of other glaciated peaks in places like the Cascades of Washington, the European Alps, South America, or Asia in order to be thoroughly prepared for this climb. Because glacier travel is such a critical component of climbing Denali, it is imperative to your safety and survival that your team is skilled with proper glacier travel, route finding, and crevasse rescue procedures. Denali is close to a month long expedition which is very different than an overnight or even multi-day climbs on smaller glaciated peaks. All team members should have previous experience in the ”expedition environment.” Denali is a very cold place and having multiple expeditions with winter camping in arctic type conditions is extremely important. Although we will acclimate on the mountain, Denali is a very high mountain, and having prior experience with altitude and acclimatization is very helpful to your success.
Day 1: 2:00 pm meet for the expedition orientation, lunch packing, gear check and issuing.
Day 2: 8:00 am meet for skills practice, and National Park Service orientation. 4:00 pm fly to Base Camp, 7,200’, distance: 60 miles, elevation gain: 6850’
Day 3: Base Camp: organize, acclimate, review glacier travel and crevasse rescue, take a deep breath and enjoy the view
Day 4: Single to Ski Hill, Camp 1, 7,800’, distance: 5.5 miles, elevation gain: 600’
Day 5: Carry to Kahiltna Pass, 9,700’, distance: 5 miles, elevation gain: 1900’
Day 6: Move to Kahiltna Pass, Camp 2, 9,700’, distance: 5 miles, elevation gain: 1900’, under the right conditions we may move all the way to 11,000’
Day 7: Single to 11,000’, Camp 3, distance: 1.5 miles, elevation gain: 1300’
Day 8: Rest day
Day 9: Carry to 13,500’ around Windy Corner, distance: 1.75 miles, elevation gain: 2500’
Day 10: Move to 14,200’, Camp IV, distance: 2.75 miles, elevation gain: 3200’
Day 11: Back carry 13,500’ cache, distance: 1 mile, elevation gain: 700’
Day 12: Carry to 16,200’ , distance: 1 mile, elevation gain: 2000’
Day 13: Rest at 14,200’
Day 14: Move to 16,200 feet or 17,200’, Camp V, distance: 1.75 miles, elevation gain: 3000’
Day 15: Rest day or move to 17,200 feet, Camp VI, distance: 1.75 miles, elevation gain: 3000’
Day 16-19: Summit days, distance: 4 miles, elevation gain: 3120’
Day 20: Return to 14,200 feet or 11,000’, distance: 2.25 miles
Day 21: Return to Base Camp, 7,200’, distance: 11.25 miles, fly back to Talkeetna
Day 22: Weather day
Cost: $9,500
Deposit: $2,500
2020 Denali West Buttress Dates:
June 5 – June 26
Costs Include:
• Guides
• Glacier flights
• Field food and fuel
• Group camping and climbing equipment
• Personal issue sleds
• Base camp fee
• Camping in Talkeenta
Costs Do Not Include:
• Transportation to and from Talkeetna
• Lodging in Talkeetna
• National Park Service mountaineering special use fee and entrance fee to be paid in Talkeetna during the first day of the expedition
• Trip cancellation/interruption insurance or the required medical evacuation insurance
• Personal equipment and clothing
• Rental items
• Gratuities
Cancellation/Refund Policy
• There are no refunds for the deposit or balance payments for this expedition. This includes but is not limited to, expeditions that conclude without a summit or progress towards a summit for participants due to route conditions, weather, insufficient manpower, or any other factor outside the control of Madison Mountaineering. Expedition leader has the final say on the expedition conclusion and will make all best efforts within our margin of safety.
• Participants that choose to leave an active expedition for any reason are not entitled to any refunds
• Madison Mountaineering, LLC highly recommends trip cancellation insurance for all expeditions
• Due to the nature and heavy costs of government and operator permits, Madison Mountaineering must adhere to a stringent refund policy
• Deposit due with registration materials
• All balances are due 120 days prior to departure date unless otherwise specified
• Participants whose balances are not received by the 120-day deadline as stated above, risk forfeiture of their funds and their place on the expedition
Note: Madison Mountaineering, LLC reserves the right to waive any fees. As we offer personalized service, we will attempt to accommodate changes and cancellations when necessary, waiving certain fees when feasible. Deposits paid by participants acknowledge the above cancellation terms.
Ice Axe: General mountaineering tool (65cm)
Crampons: General mountaineering crampons
Climbing Helmet: Must be able to fit over your ski hat
Ascender: 1 right or left hand ascender (Petzel brand is best)
Alpine Climbing Harness: A mountaineering harness, with adjustable leg loops. Not a rock climbing “sport” harness.
Carabineers: 3 locking and 3 regular
Rappel device: ATC or figure 8
Mountaineering boots: Olympus Mons, Millet, ect.
Hiking shoes: comfortable boots or shoes for the trek to base camp.
Camp boots: comfortable boots for wearing in camp.
Booties: Optional, down is best.
Wool or synthetic socks: 6 pair
Liner socks: 3 pair
Synthetic Short underwear: A non cotton style underwear.
Lightweight Long Underwear: 2-3 pair longsleve shirt and long pants
Heavyweight long underwear: 1 pair
Short Sleeve Synthetic Shirt: 1-2 pair
Lightweight Nylon Pants: 1-2 pair
Soft Shell jacket: With or without hood
Soft Shell Pants: With accessory side pockets
Hard Shell Jacket with hood: A waterproof and breathable shell jacket
Hard Shell Pants: Waterproof and breathable shell pants
Down Parka with hood: This “puffy” jacket we wear when taking breaks when climbing below Camp 3.
Insulated synthetic Pants: These are nice to have when climbing below Camp 3.
Down Suit: Feathered Friends, Sherpa, North Face, Mountain Hardwear, etc. We wear this above Camp 3.
Synthetic or wool hat (ski hat).
Balaclava: to protect your neck and face in high winds.
Baseball Cap or other sun hat: To shade your face / neck from the sun on a hot day.
Bandana or Buff: To protect your neck / face from the sun.
Glacier glasses: Full protection with side covers or wrap around.
Ski goggles: To be worn on summit day in the event of high winds.
Lightweight synthetic liner gloves: For wearing on a hot day.
Soft shell gloves: To wear for moderate cold / wind.
Shell glove with insulated liner: To wear for severe cold / strong wind.
Expedition Mitts: Large enough to fit a liner glove inside.
Expedition Backpack: 65L pack should be large enough.
Trekking Backpack: To carry on the trek to base camp. Simple and light.
Sleeping Bag (for high camps): Rated to at least -40°F. Goose down or synthetic.
Sleeping Bag (for base camp): rated to at least -20°F.
Compression stuff sacks: For reducing volume of the sleeping bag, down parka, etc., in your pack.
Self inflating sleeping pad (1 for base camp and 1 for high camps): Full length is preferred.
Closed cell foam pad: To be used in conjunction with the inflating pad for warmth and comfort when sleeping.
Trekking poles: Adjustable
Cup: A plastic 16 oz. minimum cup or mug
Bowl: A plastic bowl for eating dinner or breakfast out of
Spoon: Plastic spoon (lexan)
Headlamp: With 2 extra sets of new batteries
Sunscreen: SPF 50 or better
Lipscreen: SPF 30 or better (2 sticks).
Water bottles: 2 or 3 wide mouth bottles with 1 liter capacity.
Water bottle parkas (2): fully insulated with zip opening.
Thermos: 1 liter
Pee bottle: 1 liter minimum bottle for convenience at night in the tent.
Toiletry bag: Include toilet paper and hand sanitizer and small towel
Hand warmers & toe warmers: 3 sets of each. Or use Hot Tronics for food warmer system.
Knife or multi tool (optional).
Trash compactor bags: to line back pack and stuff sacks in the event of rain or wet snow is falling on us.
Camera: bring extra batteries and memory cards.
Travel Clothes: For days in Kathmandu.
Duffel bags (2) with locks: To transport equipment.
Base Camp Items: Kindle, Ipad, smart phone, etc.
Snack food: Please bring a few days of your favorite climbing snack food such as bars, gels, nuts, beef jerky, etc. A variety of salty and sweet is good.
Small personal first aid kit: Include athletic tape, band aids, Ibuprofen, blister care, personal medications, etc.
Medications and Prescriptions: Bring antibiotics (Azithromycin, etc.), and altitude medicine such as Diamox and dexamethasone.
Madison Mountaineering is recognized for well thought out strategy in high altitude climbing expeditions, as well as high-quality service throughout. Because we have two decades of experience in the planning and coordination of mountaineering expeditions, our reputation is excellent. We strive to make each expedition the best possible experience for our climbers and focus on our 3 primary goals of success in reaching the summit, returning safely, and having fun!
Our guides are some of the best and most experienced in the industry, having a strong grasp of technical climbing, expedition, and high altitude experience, along with strong interpersonal skills. Our teams are small and equipped with the best support available to ensure the highest chance of success. We are renowned for our comfortable base camps, high-quality food, first-rate communications, and medical support services, all of which are overseen by a professional member of our team.
Most of our climbers have either climbed with us before, been referred by a friend who has climbed with us, or met one of our teams while attempting another peak and decided to join us for their next expedition. We work hard to facilitate safe, successful, and enjoyable expeditions for all of our climbers. Our track record and past climber testimonials prove we are not only experts in our field, but we also love what we do!
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Carstensz Pyramid, one of the least climbed peaks in the ”7 Summits” is a formidable objective located in Papua, Indonesia. Our expedition begins in the beautiful island of Bali, where we fly to Timika then Sugapa to begin the fly to base camp. Our high-end logistics, local staff, and mountain guide ensure you are well taken care of throughout the expedition. The mountain is limestone that rises from the thick forest below, jutting to just over 16,000’. This rock climb requires basic rock climbing ability to ascents mostly 5th class terrain on fixed ropes.
Note From Garrett: I am very excited to lead this trip to Carstensz Pyramid in autumn of 2019! This expedition will be a “fly in and fly out” as current circumstances in Western Papua necessitate air transport. Our recent expedition to Carstensz utilized air transport and was very successful: expedition dispatches. I look forward to repeating this success and safety with you on this adventure!
Helicopters:
Using helicopters to fly in and out allows us the best chance for an overall successful expedition, reaching the summit and returning safely. Recent logistical difficulties have resulted in some climbers not reaching the mountain, as well as detainment by tribesman and the security company overseeing the mining operation adjacent to the mountain. Until the last few years, trekking was the normal way to access the peak, with heavy reliance on local Dani Tribesman. Helicopter transport, in general, reduces the number of variables in reaching our destination. Utilizing the helicopter also reduces the chance of contracting an illness while trekking, avoids the local politics, and offers easy and reliable evacuation.
Day 1: Arrive in Bali. Transfer to our hotel. Expedition orientation & equipment check.
Day 2: Day tour around Bali, obtain expedition permits and ensure all baggage has arrived.
Day 3: Early morning flight to Timika. Arrive at hotel in Timika, final organization of personal equipment, review climb itinerary.
Day 4: Flight To Carstensz Pyramid Base Camp, the Yellow Valley. Rest and acclimatization in the afternoon, review of ropes, knots and technical climbing.
Day 5: Today we go on a short hike for acclimatization, final review of climb, then return to sleep at base camp.
Day 6: Summit Day! We awake early for an ‘Alpine Start’ and depart base camp in the pre dawn hours for our ascent of the peak.
Day 7: Helicopter flight from Carstensz Pyramid base camp and arrive Timika. We either stay in our hotel or connect to Bali if possible.
Days 8-9: Extra days in case of bad weather, etc.
Day 10: Flight To Bali, stay in hotel, extra day in Bali
Day 11: Depart Bali for home!
Carstensz Pyramid Expedition
$26,500
Deposit: $5,000
2019 Departures:
October 23 – November 2
2020 Departures:
March 16 – March 26
October 23 – November 2
Costs Include:
• Airport pick up and transfer to the hotel upon arrival in Bali
• Helicopter flight from Timika to Carstensz Pyramid Base Camp
• Accommodation (Single Occupancy) in Bali before and after the climb
• All meals on the expedition after departing Bali until return to Bali
• Tents, ropes, and other group climbing equipment
• All expedition logistics including climbing and trekking permits
• All equipment necessary to make a strong and safe attempt for the summit
• All expedition staff including Mountain Guide and local support staff
• 1-2 nights accommodation and meals in Papua one night prior to the climb and one night following the climb
• Transport of 15kg personal equipment from Timika to Base Camp by helicopter (20kg max for internal flight from Bali – Timika)
• Porters assistance if necessary
• Satellite phone for emergency contact
Costs Do Not Include:
• Round trip airfare Bali – Timika. Approximate ticket cost is $500 which we will arrange
• International Air travel to and from Denpasar, Indonesia
• Indonesian tourist visa charges and airport taxes
• Personal clothing and equipment
• Meals outside Papua
• Alcoholic beverages
• Bottled or canned beverages
• Specialty coffee or espresso drinks
• Personal travel insurance, trip cancellation insurance and medical or security evacuation insurance
• Any rescue costs or costs of early departure from the expedition
• Costs from arriving early or leaving late
• Overweight baggage charges on the flight to / from Bali – Timika
• Any costs due to flight delays/cancellations
• Additional Helicopters Charters
• Personal domestic excess baggage costs
• Customary gratuities to local expedition staff, porters and guides
• Accommodation in Bali, beyond the 2 nights
• Accommodation in Papua, beyond the 2 nights
• Personal climbing equipment. (See equipment list)
• Incidental Expenses such as Tips, Telephone, Bar, Laundry or other personal expenses.
• Force majeure.
• Costs for delays that are beyond the control of the expedition
Cancellation/Refund Policy
• There are no refunds for the deposit or balance payments for this expedition. This includes but is not limited to, expeditions that conclude without a summit or progress towards a summit for participants due to route conditions, weather, insufficient manpower, or any other factor outside the control of Madison Mountaineering. Expedition leader has the final say on the expedition conclusion and will make all best efforts within our margin of safety.
• Participants that choose to leave an active expedition for any reason are not entitled to any refunds
• Madison Mountaineering, LLC highly recommends trip cancellation insurance for all expeditions
• Due to the nature and heavy costs of government and operator permits, Madison Mountaineering must adhere to a stringent refund policy
• Deposit due with registration materials
• All balances are due 120 days prior to departure date unless otherwise specified
• Participants whose balances are not received by the 120-day deadline as stated above, risk forfeiture of their funds and their place on the expedition
Note: Madison Mountaineering, LLC reserves the right to waive any fees. As we offer personalized service, we will attempt to accommodate changes and cancellations when necessary, waiving certain fees when feasible. Deposits paid by participants acknowledge the above cancellation terms.
Alpine Climbing Harness: A lightweight mountaineering harness.
Locking Carabineers: 3
Rappel device: figure 8
Ascender: 1 (Petzel)
20ft. of 6mm accessory cord
Climbing Helmet: Adjustable
Trekking Poles: Adjustable poles to trek around the area of base camp.
Technical Climbing boots: To wear on the climb, must be waterproof. Good models include the La Sportiva Trango S Evo GTX, La Sportiva Trango Cube, and the Mammut Magic GTX.
Socks: Minimum 2 pair thick mountaineering socks and 2 pair liner socks
Rain Boots: waterproof rubber rain boots for use in base camp wet conditions
Short Underwear: 1-2 pair of synthetic short underwear
Long Underwear: 1-2 pair lightweight long underwear pants and shirts. 1 pair of heavy expedition weight long underwear.
Lightweight Trekking Pants: for wearing around base camp.
Soft Shell Jacket: A hooded jacket
Soft Shell Pants: For trekking and climbing
Insulated Jacket: PrimaLoft or Down
Insulated Pants: PrimaLoft or Down, these should have full side zippers.
Hard Shell Jacket: To be worn in wet conditions
Hard Shell Pants: To be worn in wet conditions, these pants should have full side zippers.
Warm Hat: A warm fleece or wool hat.
Balaclava: to cover your face and neck on windy days.
Sun hat: A baseball style sun camp.
Buff: 1-2 of these to wear around your neck & face to block the wind, UV rays, dust.
Glacier Glasses: wrap around style sunglasses with dark lenses
Soft Shell Gloves: 1 pair
Leather Rappel Gloves: 1 pair
Alpine Backpack: A 35 liter internal frame back pack.
Sleeping Bag: Rated to at least 20 °F. Down is preferable over synthetic.
Compression stuff sacks: for reducing volume for your sleeping bag and down jacket.
Self Inflating pad: A full length air mattress
Closed Cell foam pad: Full length is best
Headlamp: Bring a spare set of batteries
Cup: 16oz. minimum
Bowl: ½ liter minimum capacity
Spoon: Plastic (lexan)
Sunscreen: SPF 50 or stronger
Lipscreen: SPF 30 or stronger
Water bottles: 2 bottles with 1 liter capacity each
Water Purification System: Tablets or Steripen
Pee Bottle: 1 liter capacity minimum
Pee Funnel: For Women
Knife: Optional
Toiletry Bag: Toothpaste, Toothbrush, baby wipes, etc.
Hand Sanitizer: 2 small bottles
Umbrella: A small and sturdy model
Trash Compactor bags (4): To line stuff sacks and separate gear
Camera: lightweight with extra batteries
Travel Clothes: For days in Timika / Sugapa.
Large Duffel Bag with lock: for transporting all personal gear to base camp.
Small Duffel Bag: to store items in the hotel in Bali.
Small Personal First Aid Kit: Athletic tape, band aids, Ibuprofen, Moleskin, blister care products, personal medications, cough drops.
Medications:
• Acetazolamide (Diamox) for altitude illness
• Antibiotics such as Ciprofloxin or Azithromycin for gastro intestinal or respiratory illness
• Ibuprofen for muscle soreness
• Pepto Bismol for loose stool
• Excedrin for headaches, anti nausea medications.
Climbing Snacks:
• Electrolyte Replacement Drink Mix: Bring a supply for 12 days such as Nuun.
• Energy Gel: Single serving gel packs such as GU, Clifshot, Powergel, etc.
• Energy Bars: Power bar, Cliff bar, etc.
• Candy Bars: Snickers, Mars, Twix, Milkey Way, etc.
• Hard Candy: 1 cup
• Crackers: 1 box
Madison Mountaineering is recognized for well thought out strategy in high altitude climbing expeditions, as well as high-quality service throughout. Because we have two decades of experience in the planning and coordination of mountaineering expeditions, our reputation is excellent. We strive to make each expedition the best possible experience for our climbers and focus on our 3 primary goals of success in reaching the summit, returning safely, and having fun!
Our guides are some of the best and most experienced in the industry, having a strong grasp of technical climbing, expedition, and high altitude experience, along with strong interpersonal skills. Our teams are small and equipped with the best support available to ensure the highest chance of success. We are renowned for our comfortable base camps, high-quality food, first-rate communications, and medical support services, all of which are overseen by a professional member of our team.
Most of our climbers have either climbed with us before, been referred by a friend who has climbed with us, or met one of our teams while attempting another peak and decided to join us for their next expedition. We work hard to facilitate safe, successful, and enjoyable expeditions for all of our climbers. Our track record and past climber testimonials prove we are not only experts in our field, but we also love what we do!
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