Tag: 7 Summits

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“We climb mountains around the world for a conservation cause!”

Join Climb for Conservation, Inc. and Madison Mountaineering as we make a powerful statement on the summit by raising awareness and funds for some of the most critically endangered species on the planet.  Did you know: unless we take action now, one-half of all species may be extinct by 2100! Our mission is to raise awareness and funds for the jaguar species in 2018. 

 

Conservation

  Jaguar Species

#1 – MT. ELBRUS, Russia – Take on a challenge of a lifetime and join us as we climb the tallest mountain in Russia and one of the famed “7 Summits!” The summit provides amazing views of the Ural mountain range.

Dates: July 21 – 31, 2018     

Price: $5,200 paid directly to Madison Mountaineering

#2 – MT. RAINIER, Washington, USA – Climb the highest peak in the state of Washington to support C4C’s mission and operations. Join us on this iconic endurance climb! A unique experience to climb with Everest guide Garrett Madison right here in the USA.          

Dates:  August 12-16 2018  

Paradise to Summit via DC Route.
8/12: Arrive at Whitaker Bunkhouse in Ashford, WA
8/13: Climb to Camp Muir
8/14: Climb to Ingraham Flats before summit attempt
8/15: Return to Ingraham Flats
8/16: Return to Paradise.  

* Non-profit climb under a special use permit from the Mt. Rainier National Park

Price: $3,000 donation to the non-profit Climb for Conservation, Inc.

                                                

Climb for Conservation, Inc. is a 501c3 Public Charity – tax identification 27-3118371.

Charitable contributions are deductible to the fullest extent of the law.

Contact ginna@climbforconservation.org and garrett@madisonmountaineering.com for more information.

www.ClimbforConservation.org

Our Mount Everest expedition team is now back in Kathmandu after a successful and safe climb of Mount Everest.  All climbers are heading home, after what has been a great experience in the Nepal Himalaya.  On May 19th, our team reached the summit with 7 climbers, 5 guides (1 of whom was working as a high altitude camera man) and 15 Sherpas.  We all made it back down safely without any injuries such as frostbite, etc.  There have been recent fatalities on Everest, and we are thankful that our team was very fortunate and did not suffer any losses.  100% of the climbers who embarked on the summit rotation made it to the top, we are very proud of this achievement.
Our decision to abandon our Lhotse climb after the fatality in the Lhotse couloir was in part ethical and also taking into consideration of the hazardous nature of the existing terrain that likely contributed to that accident, likely no climbers will reach the summit of Lhotse this season.
Thanks for following our climb of Mount Everest!

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Today our climbing team made a safe descent to Camp 2 on Everest and will be arriving into base camp tomorrow. After resting at Camp 4 last night the team enjoyed warm drinks and food after their successful summit. All team members are in good health and look forward to hot showers and thicker air back at base camp. We are expecting the whole team to arrive early afternoon and we will have a celebration in order here at our camp. I will have more pictures up tomorrow and look forward to hearing the team tell of their journey to the top of the world!

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What a day!! Our climbers are now resting at Camp 4 at 7,950m (26,085ft) on Everest after their successful summit bid earlier today. The weather was perfect and the views from what I hear were nothing short of spectacular. Tonight the team will rest on oxygen before descending to Camp 2 tomorrow. Our Lhotse team is waiting and will not make an ascent tonight due to uncertain route conditions. The current plan is to descend together tomorrow and re-evaluate Lhotse conditions before making a decision. All members are in good health and have accomplished what many dream of today.

Will have pictures and videos up as soon as possible! 🙂

Just moments ago our full climbing team successfully summited Everest at 8,850m (29,035ft)!! It is a spectacular day here with no wind or clouds in sight. 15 Sherpa, 7 climbers (Jim, Joel, Stuart, Nick, Lisa, Ankur, Jeff) and 5 guides (Garrett, Billy, Conan, Fred, Brent) are together at the top. The sun is shining and we are so very happy that our climbers have made it to the top of the world. Our team will take in the views and enjoy the moment before making the descent back down to Camp 2.

Garrett, Lisa, and Stuart will be climbing Lhotse today as well which continues the excitement. The Lhotse fixed lines were finished last night and our team will rest for a few hours at Camp 4 before making this second ascent.

Stay tuned, pictures to come!! 🙂

Just minutes ago our climbers departed Camp 4 at 7,950m (26,085ft) and began their 2016 Everest summit bid. The team spent the night at the South Col after battling heavy winds on the ascent yesterday. Now well rested having been on oxygen all day, they are ready to begin their push to the top of the world. We will be up all night monitoring the team’s progress throughout the ascent.

Yesterday we had very unusual weather here at Everest Base Camp, snowfall with heavy winds accompanied by a thunderstorm. Our wifi network was knocked offline until early this morning. Tonight the conditions are looking great for our team with low winds and no precipitation on the forecast. We are very excited here and I will update this dispatch tomorrow morning.

To the top!

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The Everest climbing team is safely tucked in for the night at the South Col (Camp 4)! Listen to Garrett’s sat phone audio dispatch:

Hey, this is Garrett Madison calling in from the Everest climbing team. Today is Tuesday, May 17th at 9:30PM and we are tucked in here at the South Col. We moved up from Camp 3 to Camp 4 today. The weather forecast did not play out the way it was supposed to. It was supposed to be a nice, sunny day. But uh, it turned into a very blustery day with high winds and some precipitation in the form of snow coming down. Our plan is to rest tomorrow. Hopefully the weather improves and we can make a summit attempt on the evening of the 18th and hopefully get up to the top the morning of the 19th. So, everyone is doing well. We are all tucked in here at the South Col trying to stay warm and enjoying being here at 26,000 feet. All is well and we’ll check in again soon. Thanks!

Garrett called in via sat phone from Everest Camp 3 on the Lhoste face (7230m/23,720ft) to report:

Hey this is Garrett calling in for the Everest team. Today is May 16th, it’s 5:00PM and we are up at Camp 3! Everyone’s doing great and we are tucked in here getting ready to have dinner and go to bed. Tomorrow we are going to head up to Camp 4 on the South Col. We are on schedule for a summit of May 18th. The weather is looking good. And hopefully Lhotse May 19th! So we are just keeping an eye on the weather and moving up the mountain slowly here. Everyone is doing well and we’ll check in soon.

Early tomorrow morning our climbing team will have the much anticipated departure toward Camp 3 at 7,200m (23,625ft). After spending a few days at Camp 2 waiting for the weather to materialize we are all very excited here for our team’s movement up the mountain. The team is in good health and spirits with bags packed and ready to go. Weather forecasts are looking positive for our summit date of May 18 or 19, seems to be changing between the two days as we receive new weather data. The 18th has higher humidity with lower winds while the 19th has lower humidity but slightly higher winds at 20-30 kilometer’s per hour. Tomorrow our team will reach Camp 3 and spend the night on oxygen.

Happy Birthday to Fred, our virtual reality camera man and guide! He enjoyed a mountain birthday up high at Camp 2 today.

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Beautiful image taken of our climbers!

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Denali, also known as Mount McKinley, is the highest mountain peak in North America, with a summit elevation of 20,310 feet (6,190 m) above sea level. Making it one of the notorious ‘7 Summits’ around the world. At an altitude of 18,000 ft (5,500 m), the base-to-peak rise is the largest of any mountain situated entirely above sea level. With a topographic prominence of 20,156 feet (6,144 m) and a topographic isolation of 4,629 miles (7,450 km), Denali is the third most prominent and third most isolated peak after Mount Everest and Aconcagua. Located in the Alaska Range in the interior of the U.S. state of Alaska, Denali is the centerpiece of Denali National Park and Preserve. A extraordinary expedition that will bring in seasoned climbers from around the world.

We recommend that all of our Denali climbers make numerous ascents of other glaciated peaks in places like the Cascades of Washington, the European Alps, South America, or Asia in order to be thoroughly prepared for this climb. Because glacier travel is such a critical component of climbing Denali, it is imperative to your safety and survival that your team is skilled with proper glacier travel, route finding, and crevasse rescue procedures. Denali is close to a month long expedition which is very different than an overnight or even multi-day climbs on smaller glaciated peaks. All team members should have previous experience in the “expedition environment.” Denali is a very cold place and having multiple expeditions with winter camping in arctic type conditions is extremely important. Although we will acclimate on the mountain, Denali is a very high mountain, and having prior experience with altitude and acclimatization is very helpful to your success.

Itinerary

Day 1: 2:00 pm meet for the expedition orientation, lunch packing, gear check and issuing.

Day 2: 8:00 am meet for skills practice, and National Park Service orientation. 4:00 pm fly to Base Camp, 7,200′, distance: 60 miles, elevation gain: 6850′

Day 3: Base Camp: organize, acclimate, review glacier travel and crevasse rescue, take a deep breath and enjoy the view

Day 4: Single to Ski Hill, Camp 1, 7,800′, distance: 5.5 miles, elevation gain: 600′

Day 5: Carry to Kahiltna Pass, 9,700′, distance: 5 miles, elevation gain: 1900′

Day 6: Move to Kahiltna Pass, Camp 2, 9,700′, distance: 5 miles, elevation gain: 1900′, under the right conditions we may move all the way to 11,000′

Day 7: Single to 11,000′, Camp 3, distance: 1.5 miles, elevation gain: 1300′

Day 8: Rest day

Day 9: Carry to 13,500′ around Windy Corner, distance: 1.75 miles, elevation gain: 2500′

Day 10: Move to 14,200′, Camp IV, distance: 2.75 miles, elevation gain: 3200′

Day 11: Back carry 13,500′ cache, distance: 1 mile, elevation gain: 700′

Day 12: Carry to 16,200′ , distance: 1 mile, elevation gain: 2000′

Day 13: Rest at 14,200′

Day 14: Move to 16,200 feet or 17,200′, Camp V, distance: 1.75 miles, elevation gain: 3000′

Day 15: Rest day or move to 17,200 feet, Camp VI, distance: 1.75 miles, elevation gain: 3000′

Day 16-19: Summit days, distance: 4 miles, elevation gain: 3120′

Day 20: Return to 14,200 feet or 11,000′, distance: 2.25 miles

Day 21: Return to Base Camp, 7,200′, distance: 11.25 miles, fly back to Talkeetna

Day 22: Weather day

Dates and Costs

Cost: $7,500
Deposit: $1,500

Cost Includes:
Guides
Glacier flights
Field food and fuel
Group camping and climbing equipment
Personal issue sleds
Base camp fee
Camping in Talkeenta

Not Included:
Transportation to and from Talkeetna
Lodging in Talkeetna
National Park Service mountaineering special use fee and entrance fee to be paid in Talkeetna during the first day of the expedition
Travelers’ cancellation insurance
Personal equipment and clothing
Rental items
Gratuities

2018 Denali West Buttress Dates:

June 5 – June 26

Gear List

Ice Axe: General mountaineering tool (65cm)
Crampons: General mountaineering crampons
Climbing Helmet: Must be able to fit over your ski hat
Ascender: 1 right or left hand ascender (Petzel brand is best)
Alpine Climbing Harness: A mountaineering harness, with adjustable leg loops. Not a rock climbing “sport” harness.
Carabineers: 3 locking and 3 regular
Rappel device: ATC or figure 8
Mountaineering boots: Olympus Mons, Millet, ect.
Hiking shoes: comfortable boots or shoes for the trek to base camp.
Camp boots: comfortable boots for wearing in camp.
Booties: Optional, down is best.
Wool or synthetic socks: 6 pair
Liner socks: 3 pair
Synthetic Short underwear: A non cotton style underwear.
Lightweight Long Underwear: 2-3 pair longsleve shirt and long pants
Heavyweight long underwear: 1 pair
Short Sleeve Synthetic Shirt: 1-2 pair
Lightweight Nylon Pants: 1-2 pair
Soft Shell jacket: With or without hood
Soft Shell Pants: With accessory side pockets
Hard Shell Jacket with hood: A waterproof and breathable shell jacket
Hard Shell Pants: Waterproof and breathable shell pants
Down Parka with hood: This “puffy” jacket we wear when taking breaks when climbing below Camp 3.
Insulated synthetic Pants: These are nice to have when climbing below Camp 3.
Down Suit: Feathered Friends, Sherpa, North Face, Mountain Hardwear, etc. We wear this above Camp 3.
Synthetic or wool hat (ski hat).
Balaclava: to protect your neck and face in high winds.
Baseball Cap or other sun hat: To shade your face / neck from the sun on a hot day.
Bandana or Buff: To protect your neck / face from the sun.
Glacier glasses: Full protection with side covers or wrap around.
Ski goggles: To be worn on summit day in the event of high winds.
Lightweight synthetic liner gloves: For wearing on a hot day.
Soft shell gloves: To wear for moderate cold / wind.
Shell glove with insulated liner: To wear for severe cold / strong wind.
Expedition Mitts: Large enough to fit a liner glove inside.
Expedition Backpack: 65L pack should be large enough.
Trekking Backpack: To carry on the trek to base camp. Simple and light.
Sleeping Bag (for high camps): Rated to at least -40°F. Goose down or synthetic.
Sleeping Bag (for base camp): rated to at least -20°F.
Compression stuff sacks: For reducing volume of the sleeping bag, down parka, etc., in your pack.
Self inflating sleeping pad (1 for base camp and 1 for high camps): Full length is preferred.
Closed cell foam pad: To be used in conjunction with the inflating pad for warmth and comfort when sleeping.
Trekking poles: Adjustable
Cup: A plastic 16 oz. minimum cup or mug
Bowl: A plastic bowl for eating dinner or breakfast out of
Spoon: Plastic spoon (lexan)
Headlamp: With 2 extra sets of new batteries
Sunscreen: SPF 50 or better
Lipscreen: SPF 30 or better (2 sticks).
Water bottles: 2 or 3 wide mouth bottles with 1 liter capacity.
Water bottle parkas (2): fully insulated with zip opening.
Thermos: 1 liter
Pee bottle: 1 liter minimum bottle for convenience at night in the tent.
Toiletry bag: Include toilet paper and hand sanitizer and small towel
Hand warmers & toe warmers: 3 sets of each. Or use Hot Tronics for food warmer system.
Knife or multi tool (optional).
Trash compactor bags: to line back pack and stuff sacks in the event of rain or wet snow is falling on us.
Camera: bring extra batteries and memory cards.
Travel Clothes: For days in Kathmandu.
Duffel bags (2) with locks: To transport equipment.
Base Camp Items: Kindle, Ipad, smart phone, etc.
Snack food: Please bring a few days of your favorite climbing snack food such as bars, gels, nuts, beef jerky, etc. A variety of salty and sweet is good.
Small personal first aid kit: Include athletic tape, band aids, Ibuprofen, blister care, personal medications, etc.
Medications and Prescriptions: Bring antibiotics (Azithromycin, etc.), and altitude medicine such as Diamox and dexamethasone.

Day 1: 2:00 pm meet for the expedition orientation, lunch packing, gear check and issuing.

Day 2: 8:00 am meet for skills practice, and National Park Service orientation. 4:00 pm fly to Base Camp, 7,200′, distance: 60 miles, elevation gain: 6850′

Day 3: Base Camp: organize, acclimate, review glacier travel and crevasse rescue, take a deep breath and enjoy the view

Day 4: Single to Ski Hill, Camp 1, 7,800′, distance: 5.5 miles, elevation gain: 600′

Day 5: Carry to Kahiltna Pass, 9,700′, distance: 5 miles, elevation gain: 1900′

Day 6: Move to Kahiltna Pass, Camp 2, 9,700′, distance: 5 miles, elevation gain: 1900′, under the right conditions we may move all the way to 11,000′

Day 7: Single to 11,000′, Camp 3, distance: 1.5 miles, elevation gain: 1300′

Day 8: Rest day

Day 9: Carry to 13,500′ around Windy Corner, distance: 1.75 miles, elevation gain: 2500′

Day 10: Move to 14,200′, Camp IV, distance: 2.75 miles, elevation gain: 3200′

Day 11: Back carry 13,500′ cache, distance: 1 mile, elevation gain: 700′

Day 12: Carry to 16,200′ , distance: 1 mile, elevation gain: 2000′

Day 13: Rest at 14,200′

Day 14: Move to 16,200 feet or 17,200′, Camp V, distance: 1.75 miles, elevation gain: 3000′

Day 15: Rest day or move to 17,200 feet, Camp VI, distance: 1.75 miles, elevation gain: 3000′

Day 16-19: Summit days, distance: 4 miles, elevation gain: 3120′

Day 20: Return to 14,200 feet or 11,000′, distance: 2.25 miles

Day 21: Return to Base Camp, 7,200′, distance: 11.25 miles, fly back to Talkeetna

Day 22: Weather day

Cost: $7,500
Deposit: $1,500

Cost Includes:
Guides
Glacier flights
Field food and fuel
Group camping and climbing equipment
Personal issue sleds
Base camp fee
Camping in Talkeenta

Not Included:
Transportation to and from Talkeetna
Lodging in Talkeetna
National Park Service mountaineering special use fee and entrance fee to be paid in Talkeetna during the first day of the expedition
Travelers’ cancellation insurance
Personal equipment and clothing
Rental items
Gratuities

2018 Denali West Buttress Dates:

June 5 – June 26

Ice Axe: General mountaineering tool (65cm)
Crampons: General mountaineering crampons
Climbing Helmet: Must be able to fit over your ski hat
Ascender: 1 right or left hand ascender (Petzel brand is best)
Alpine Climbing Harness: A mountaineering harness, with adjustable leg loops. Not a rock climbing “sport” harness.
Carabineers: 3 locking and 3 regular
Rappel device: ATC or figure 8
Mountaineering boots: Olympus Mons, Millet, ect.
Hiking shoes: comfortable boots or shoes for the trek to base camp.
Camp boots: comfortable boots for wearing in camp.
Booties: Optional, down is best.
Wool or synthetic socks: 6 pair
Liner socks: 3 pair
Synthetic Short underwear: A non cotton style underwear.
Lightweight Long Underwear: 2-3 pair longsleve shirt and long pants
Heavyweight long underwear: 1 pair
Short Sleeve Synthetic Shirt: 1-2 pair
Lightweight Nylon Pants: 1-2 pair
Soft Shell jacket: With or without hood
Soft Shell Pants: With accessory side pockets
Hard Shell Jacket with hood: A waterproof and breathable shell jacket
Hard Shell Pants: Waterproof and breathable shell pants
Down Parka with hood: This “puffy” jacket we wear when taking breaks when climbing below Camp 3.
Insulated synthetic Pants: These are nice to have when climbing below Camp 3.
Down Suit: Feathered Friends, Sherpa, North Face, Mountain Hardwear, etc. We wear this above Camp 3.
Synthetic or wool hat (ski hat).
Balaclava: to protect your neck and face in high winds.
Baseball Cap or other sun hat: To shade your face / neck from the sun on a hot day.
Bandana or Buff: To protect your neck / face from the sun.
Glacier glasses: Full protection with side covers or wrap around.
Ski goggles: To be worn on summit day in the event of high winds.
Lightweight synthetic liner gloves: For wearing on a hot day.
Soft shell gloves: To wear for moderate cold / wind.
Shell glove with insulated liner: To wear for severe cold / strong wind.
Expedition Mitts: Large enough to fit a liner glove inside.
Expedition Backpack: 65L pack should be large enough.
Trekking Backpack: To carry on the trek to base camp. Simple and light.
Sleeping Bag (for high camps): Rated to at least -40°F. Goose down or synthetic.
Sleeping Bag (for base camp): rated to at least -20°F.
Compression stuff sacks: For reducing volume of the sleeping bag, down parka, etc., in your pack.
Self inflating sleeping pad (1 for base camp and 1 for high camps): Full length is preferred.
Closed cell foam pad: To be used in conjunction with the inflating pad for warmth and comfort when sleeping.
Trekking poles: Adjustable
Cup: A plastic 16 oz. minimum cup or mug
Bowl: A plastic bowl for eating dinner or breakfast out of
Spoon: Plastic spoon (lexan)
Headlamp: With 2 extra sets of new batteries
Sunscreen: SPF 50 or better
Lipscreen: SPF 30 or better (2 sticks).
Water bottles: 2 or 3 wide mouth bottles with 1 liter capacity.
Water bottle parkas (2): fully insulated with zip opening.
Thermos: 1 liter
Pee bottle: 1 liter minimum bottle for convenience at night in the tent.
Toiletry bag: Include toilet paper and hand sanitizer and small towel
Hand warmers & toe warmers: 3 sets of each. Or use Hot Tronics for food warmer system.
Knife or multi tool (optional).
Trash compactor bags: to line back pack and stuff sacks in the event of rain or wet snow is falling on us.
Camera: bring extra batteries and memory cards.
Travel Clothes: For days in Kathmandu.
Duffel bags (2) with locks: To transport equipment.
Base Camp Items: Kindle, Ipad, smart phone, etc.
Snack food: Please bring a few days of your favorite climbing snack food such as bars, gels, nuts, beef jerky, etc. A variety of salty and sweet is good.
Small personal first aid kit: Include athletic tape, band aids, Ibuprofen, blister care, personal medications, etc.
Medications and Prescriptions: Bring antibiotics (Azithromycin, etc.), and altitude medicine such as Diamox and dexamethasone.

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