Sunny Skies on Cerro San Francisco!

Photo pulled from Madison Mountaineering archive. Photo: Ted Hesser

Today, the Madison Mountaineering Ojos del Salado expedition team took full advantage of beautiful weather, after a bout of rain and snow in the day prior. The team successfully reached the summit of Cerro San Francisco at 19,744 feet and is now back in the comforts of their camp, preparing to continue their journey tomorrow. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in from Laguna Verde with todays dispatch:

Hello from Laguna Verde! Today we climbed Cerro San Francisco (6018m/19,744ft). The weather was perfect, with light winds and sunny skies. From the summit at 19,744′, we enjoyed excellent views of the Argentinian Atacama and neighboring volcanoes including the spectacular Incahuasi (6638m/21,778ft) and our main objective: Ojos del Salado (6893m/22,615ft).

We were back in our camp here at Laguna Verde by 4 p.m. for a lunch of chicken asado and fresh, homemade salsa. Tomorrow we’ll move to base camp at Ojos!

The team is doing well. We’ll be in touch!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Lakeside at Laguna Verde!

Eating well in Chile!

The Madison Mountaineering Ojos del Salado expedition team enjoyed an active rest day today, making the most of their time waiting out a storm by doing an acclimatization hike, eating good food and soaking in the hot springs! Everyone is in good spirits and looks forward to their next acclimatization climb tomorrow. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with today’s dispatch from Laguna Verde:

Hello from Laguna Verde! A storm system has been bringing rain and snow to this zone of the Andes. So today we decided to take an active rest day. We hiked partway up Mulas Muertas Volcano (5910m/19,390ft) this morning, then enjoyed a lunch of steak and guacamole before soaking in the hot springs here in our lakeside camp.

Tomorrow’s forecast looks good for our ascent of Cerro San Francisco (4940m/16,207ft). The team is all well and looking forward to it! We’ll be in touch tomorrow!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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En Route to Laguna Verde!

Our climbers John, Joe and Kris on the summit of Cerro Doña Inez! Photo: Terray Sylvester

After a successful acclimatization climb yesterday, the team is on the road today en route to Laguna Verde where they’ll camp for the night and enjoy hot springs and spectacular views of the night sky and surrounding Andes. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with todays dispatch from Chile:

Hello, this is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Ojos del Salado (6893m/22,615ft) expedition! It’s Monday, December 12th.

Yesterday we completed our first acclimatization ascent. We went up Cerro Doña Inés (5075m/16,650ft), a volcano at just over 5,000 meters. We had a beautiful climb, the team did great, everyone was feeling healthy and strong, and the weather was just perfect! We had only light winds and spectacular views of the Pedernales Salt Flat and the surrounding, brilliantly colored terrain of the Atacama.

So right now, we’re driving to Laguna Verde. We’ll camp their tonight and enjoy the hot springs! And then tomorrow, we’ll hopefully complete our second acclimatization ascent of Cerro San Francisco (4940m/16,207ft).

So, all is well here in Chile and we’ll be in touch!

The rugged beauty of the Atacama. Photo: Terray Sylvester

The rugged beauty of the Atacama. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Appetizers!

Appetizers!

Our climbers John and Kris toasting a successful day in Chile! Photo: Terray Sylvester

Our climbers John and Kris toasting a successful day in Chile! Photo: Terray Sylvester

A view of the Atacama Desert from the summit of Cerro Doña Inez. Photo: Terray Sylvester

A view of the Atacama Desert from the summit of Cerro Doña Inez. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Climbing Cerro Doña Inez. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Climbing Cerro Doña Inez. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Our chef, Juan Carlos, making the magic happen. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Our chef, Juan Carlos, making the magic happen. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Preparing for asado in camp at Pedernales Salt Flat.

Preparing for asado in camp at Pedernales Salt Flat.

Alpenglow on Cerro Doña Inez. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Alpenglow on Cerro Doña Inez. Photo: Terray Sylvester

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Success on Cerro Doña Ines!

Today the team ascended the 16,650 foot volcano, Cerro Doña Ines as part of their acclimatization efforts! Tomorrow, the team will continue on and enjoy a well-deserved dip in the hot springs at Laguna Verde. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester, checks in via Garmin inReach Mini with todays dispatch:

Hello from Pedernales! Today we enjoyed a scenic and successful acclimatization ascent of Cerro Doña Ines (5075m/16,650ft), and then returned to our camp here on the Pedernales Salt Flat for a second night. Although the Atacama is austere, we’ve had some excellent wildlife sightings, including flamingos, vicuñas, and many guanacos. From the summit of Doña Ines we enjoyed a spectacular view of the multi-hued mountains of the Altiplano.

The team is doing very well and we’re all looking forward to the hot springs at Laguna Verde tomorrow! Hasta mañana.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Pit Stop in the Pedernales Salt Flats

Driving into the planets's driest non-polar desert!

The 2022 Madison Mountaineering Ojos del Salado expedition team continues onward in their journey towards the 22,615 foot Chilean giant! After having a slow and restful morning, the team hit the road only to stop for lunch and to catch up on the World Cup, before settling into their camp for the night on the Pedernales Salt Flat. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester, checks in via Garmin inReach Mini from Chile:

Hello from Pedernales Salt Flat! Today we enjoyed a restful morning in El Salvador, ate lunch while watching the World Cup, then drove to our camp here at about 11,200′ on the edge of a broad salt flat with the high peaks of the Andes in the distance. We’re exploring the salt flat this evening before dinner. Tomorrow we’ll acclimatize on Cerro Doña Inés (5070m/16,634ft).

All is well! We’ll be in touch tomorrow!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Acclimatizing in the Atacama Desert

Our Ojos del Salado climbers in the town of El Salvador!

The team continued on to El Salvador today, after the expedition got underway in Copiapó! El Salvador serves as a great place to continue the acclimatization process as the team prepares for their ascent of the tallest volcano on the planet, Ojos del Salado. Here’s expedition leader, Terray Sylvester with todays dispatch from the Atacama Desert:

Hello, this is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Ojos del Salado (6893m/22,615ft) expedition! It’s December 9th.

Today we packed up our vehicles and drove from Copiapó (390m/1,280ft) to the little mining town of El Salvador, out here in the Atacama Desert. El Salvador is at about 2,200 meters, so we’ll spend the night here before we drive up to our first campsite on the Pedernales Salt Flats tomorrow. This is a good spot to start the acclimatization process for Ojos del Salado which is almost 7,000 meters tall.

So, all is well here and we’ll be in touch tomorrow!

Our Ojos del Salado climbers in the town of El Salvador!

Our Ojos del Salado climbers in the town of El Salvador!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Arrival in the Atacama Desert!

The team enjoying a welcome meal in Copiapó!

The Madison Mountaineering Ojos del Salado expedition is underway! The team arrived in Copiapó today and is prepared for the journey ahead after doing one final gear check, orientation and enjoying a nice meal to kickoff the expedition. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in from Copiapó with the inaugural dispatch of our Ojos del Salado expedition:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the 2022 Ojos del Salado (6893m/22,615ft) expedition – it’s December 8th.

Today our entire team arrived in the city of Copiapó (390m/1,280ft) here in Chile’s Atacama Desert. We did our gear checks, an orientation and then we went out for a nice welcome meal of steak, and ceviche, and some really tasty Chilean wine. The weather is fantastic here – it’s warm and sunny with pleasant breeze, the flowers are blooming… It’s just a really wonderful place to be during the Northern Hemisphere winter!

So, tomorrow we will drive out of Copiapó and head for the tiny town of El Salvador. With that, we will begin our journey to the summit of the highest volcano on the planet, Ojos del Salado.

We’ll be in touch!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Unclimbed Peak Expedition Wrap Up!

Summit photo after a historic first ascent!

The Madison Mountaineering unclimbed peak expedition has come to its conclusion with our team departing back to their homes, excitedly knowing that their attempt at this historic first ascent proved to be successful! Congratulations to the entire team, and a big thanks to our amazing sherpa team – this effort would not be possible without them. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this recap of making the first ascent of this previously unclimbed peak:

Our Unclimbed peak expedition was a huge success! Going into one of these unknown areas to climb a peak never before attempted by anyone always raises the level of uncertainty we face. It takes a ‘can do’ attitude and the necessary experience to arrive, work through the process in figuring out the route, etc.

There is always some luck involved, we were very fortunate to have decent weather, and a crack Sherpa team that was integral to our success.

Having climbed Ama Dablam just before allowed us to acclimatize and ready ourselves for this project. We had a certain amount of ‘mountain fitness’ which was key.

Utilizing a helicopter allowed us to go directly from Ama Dablam base camp to the base of the peak. From there we established one high camp, although we had to wait a couple of days while it snowed heavily.

Once the skies cleared, we got underway and made good progress, then started our summit day early on the 14th of November leaving base camp at 2:30 AM. About 12 hours later we stood on the summit. It was a glorious day and the achievement was a sweet one, especially given the camaraderie and spirit of teamwork that made it all possible thanks to our amazing Sherpa team.

We look forward to another ‘Unclimbed Peak’ expedition next year!

In exploration,

Garrett Madison

Our 'first ascent' line up the peak. Photo: Ted Hesser

Our ‘first ascent’ line up the peak. Photo: Ted Hesser

Climbers high in the alpine on the unclimbed peak. Photo: Ted Hesser

Climbers high in the alpine on the unclimbed peak. Photo: Ted Hesser

Climbers high in the alpine on the unclimbed peak. Photo: Ted Hesser

Climbers high in the alpine on the unclimbed peak. Photo: Ted Hesser

The peak rising out of the clouds. Photo: Ted Hesser

The peak rising out of the clouds. Photo: Ted Hesser

The team at the summit of the previously unclimbed peak! Photo: Ted Hesser

The team at the summit of the previously unclimbed peak! Photo: Ted Hesser

Celebrating back in Kathmandu!

Celebrating back in Kathmandu!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Success on the Unclimbed Peak!

The Madison Mountaineering expedition team is back in base camp and returning to Lukla today after a safe and successful expedition on the Unclimbed Peak! More details to come of their historic ascent… Here’s a brief message from expedition leader, Garrett Madison:

Just back in base camp from a successful climb of the unclimbed / unnamed peak. Flying out tomorrow morning to Lukla – Kathmandu.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Ama Dablam Expedition Conclusion

Departing base camp. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Our 2022 Ama Dablam expedition has come to its conclusion! 17 total members of the Madison Mountaineering team reached the summit of Ama Dablam, and are making their journeys home. Expedition lead, Garrett Madison, and a few of our climbers and sherpa team will continue their journey towards an unclimbed peak in the Himalaya, heading into the unknown for a chance at a first ascent! Expedition guide, Terray Sylvester checks in with one final dispatch from the 2022 Madison Mountaineering Ama Dablam expedition:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the 2022 Madison Mountaineering Ama Dablam (6812m/22,349ft) expedition – it’s  Friday, November 11th.

Our expedition has wrapped up! Our clients have departed from Ama Dablam base camp (4600m/15,100ft) – some of them decided to helicopter directly from base camp to Kathmandu (1400m/4,600ft). So, they arrived here in the capitol of Nepal a couple of days ago. Two of our clients decided to enjoy a pleasant hike down the Khumbu Valley. Those guests flew from Lukla (2860m/9,383ft) via fixed wing to Kathmandu yesterday.

So, we had one last celebratory dinner here in Kathmandu last night and people are starting to take their flights home.

All in all, we had a very successful expedition! 17 total members of our team reached the summit of Ama Dablam – that was eight of our climbers, plus two guides and seven members of our sherpa team. We had absolutely excellent weather and route conditions for that climb!

So from here, Garrett and two of our climbers from Ama Dablam as well as members of our sherpa team are turning their attention to an unclimbed peak (~6000m/20,000ft) here in the Nepal, Himalaya. If you’d like to stay up to date on how that climb is progressing, please just keep an eye on the dispatches here on the website! We’ll be in touch.

Guide, Hannah Smith in the excellent bakery in Phakding while trekking out from base camp!

Guide, Hannah Smith in the excellent bakery in Phakding while trekking out from base camp!

Guide, Hannah Smith with our climbers Mandy and Andrea in Namche Bazaar while trekking out from base camp.

Guide, Hannah Smith with our climbers Mandy and Andrea in Namche Bazaar while trekking out from base camp.

Our climber, Serge, preparing to fly out of base camp. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Our climber, Serge, preparing to fly out of base camp. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Ama Dablam base camp just before we packed it up and departed. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Ama Dablam base camp just before we packed it up and departed. Photo: Terray Sylvester

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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