Pit Stop in the Pedernales Salt Flats

Driving into the planets's driest non-polar desert!

The 2022 Madison Mountaineering Ojos del Salado expedition team continues onward in their journey towards the 22,615 foot Chilean giant! After having a slow and restful morning, the team hit the road only to stop for lunch and to catch up on the World Cup, before settling into their camp for the night on the Pedernales Salt Flat. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester, checks in via Garmin inReach Mini from Chile:

Hello from Pedernales Salt Flat! Today we enjoyed a restful morning in El Salvador, ate lunch while watching the World Cup, then drove to our camp here at about 11,200′ on the edge of a broad salt flat with the high peaks of the Andes in the distance. We’re exploring the salt flat this evening before dinner. Tomorrow we’ll acclimatize on Cerro Doña Inés (5070m/16,634ft).

All is well! We’ll be in touch tomorrow!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Acclimatizing in the Atacama Desert

Our Ojos del Salado climbers in the town of El Salvador!

The team continued on to El Salvador today, after the expedition got underway in Copiapó! El Salvador serves as a great place to continue the acclimatization process as the team prepares for their ascent of the tallest volcano on the planet, Ojos del Salado. Here’s expedition leader, Terray Sylvester with todays dispatch from the Atacama Desert:

Hello, this is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Ojos del Salado (6893m/22,615ft) expedition! It’s December 9th.

Today we packed up our vehicles and drove from Copiapó (390m/1,280ft) to the little mining town of El Salvador, out here in the Atacama Desert. El Salvador is at about 2,200 meters, so we’ll spend the night here before we drive up to our first campsite on the Pedernales Salt Flats tomorrow. This is a good spot to start the acclimatization process for Ojos del Salado which is almost 7,000 meters tall.

So, all is well here and we’ll be in touch tomorrow!

Our Ojos del Salado climbers in the town of El Salvador!

Our Ojos del Salado climbers in the town of El Salvador!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Arrival in the Atacama Desert!

The team enjoying a welcome meal in Copiapó!

The Madison Mountaineering Ojos del Salado expedition is underway! The team arrived in Copiapó today and is prepared for the journey ahead after doing one final gear check, orientation and enjoying a nice meal to kickoff the expedition. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in from Copiapó with the inaugural dispatch of our Ojos del Salado expedition:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the 2022 Ojos del Salado (6893m/22,615ft) expedition – it’s December 8th.

Today our entire team arrived in the city of Copiapó (390m/1,280ft) here in Chile’s Atacama Desert. We did our gear checks, an orientation and then we went out for a nice welcome meal of steak, and ceviche, and some really tasty Chilean wine. The weather is fantastic here – it’s warm and sunny with pleasant breeze, the flowers are blooming… It’s just a really wonderful place to be during the Northern Hemisphere winter!

So, tomorrow we will drive out of Copiapó and head for the tiny town of El Salvador. With that, we will begin our journey to the summit of the highest volcano on the planet, Ojos del Salado.

We’ll be in touch!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Unclimbed Peak Expedition Wrap Up!

Summit photo after a historic first ascent!

The Madison Mountaineering unclimbed peak expedition has come to its conclusion with our team departing back to their homes, excitedly knowing that their attempt at this historic first ascent proved to be successful! Congratulations to the entire team, and a big thanks to our amazing sherpa team – this effort would not be possible without them. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this recap of making the first ascent of this previously unclimbed peak:

Our Unclimbed peak expedition was a huge success! Going into one of these unknown areas to climb a peak never before attempted by anyone always raises the level of uncertainty we face. It takes a ‘can do’ attitude and the necessary experience to arrive, work through the process in figuring out the route, etc.

There is always some luck involved, we were very fortunate to have decent weather, and a crack Sherpa team that was integral to our success.

Having climbed Ama Dablam just before allowed us to acclimatize and ready ourselves for this project. We had a certain amount of ‘mountain fitness’ which was key.

Utilizing a helicopter allowed us to go directly from Ama Dablam base camp to the base of the peak. From there we established one high camp, although we had to wait a couple of days while it snowed heavily.

Once the skies cleared, we got underway and made good progress, then started our summit day early on the 14th of November leaving base camp at 2:30 AM. About 12 hours later we stood on the summit. It was a glorious day and the achievement was a sweet one, especially given the camaraderie and spirit of teamwork that made it all possible thanks to our amazing Sherpa team.

We look forward to another ‘Unclimbed Peak’ expedition next year!

In exploration,

Garrett Madison

Our 'first ascent' line up the peak. Photo: Ted Hesser

Our ‘first ascent’ line up the peak. Photo: Ted Hesser

Climbers high in the alpine on the unclimbed peak. Photo: Ted Hesser

Climbers high in the alpine on the unclimbed peak. Photo: Ted Hesser

Climbers high in the alpine on the unclimbed peak. Photo: Ted Hesser

Climbers high in the alpine on the unclimbed peak. Photo: Ted Hesser

The peak rising out of the clouds. Photo: Ted Hesser

The peak rising out of the clouds. Photo: Ted Hesser

The team at the summit of the previously unclimbed peak! Photo: Ted Hesser

The team at the summit of the previously unclimbed peak! Photo: Ted Hesser

Celebrating back in Kathmandu!

Celebrating back in Kathmandu!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Success on the Unclimbed Peak!

The Madison Mountaineering expedition team is back in base camp and returning to Lukla today after a safe and successful expedition on the Unclimbed Peak! More details to come of their historic ascent… Here’s a brief message from expedition leader, Garrett Madison:

Just back in base camp from a successful climb of the unclimbed / unnamed peak. Flying out tomorrow morning to Lukla – Kathmandu.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Ama Dablam Expedition Conclusion

Departing base camp. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Our 2022 Ama Dablam expedition has come to its conclusion! 17 total members of the Madison Mountaineering team reached the summit of Ama Dablam, and are making their journeys home. Expedition lead, Garrett Madison, and a few of our climbers and sherpa team will continue their journey towards an unclimbed peak in the Himalaya, heading into the unknown for a chance at a first ascent! Expedition guide, Terray Sylvester checks in with one final dispatch from the 2022 Madison Mountaineering Ama Dablam expedition:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the 2022 Madison Mountaineering Ama Dablam (6812m/22,349ft) expedition – it’s  Friday, November 11th.

Our expedition has wrapped up! Our clients have departed from Ama Dablam base camp (4600m/15,100ft) – some of them decided to helicopter directly from base camp to Kathmandu (1400m/4,600ft). So, they arrived here in the capitol of Nepal a couple of days ago. Two of our clients decided to enjoy a pleasant hike down the Khumbu Valley. Those guests flew from Lukla (2860m/9,383ft) via fixed wing to Kathmandu yesterday.

So, we had one last celebratory dinner here in Kathmandu last night and people are starting to take their flights home.

All in all, we had a very successful expedition! 17 total members of our team reached the summit of Ama Dablam – that was eight of our climbers, plus two guides and seven members of our sherpa team. We had absolutely excellent weather and route conditions for that climb!

So from here, Garrett and two of our climbers from Ama Dablam as well as members of our sherpa team are turning their attention to an unclimbed peak (~6000m/20,000ft) here in the Nepal, Himalaya. If you’d like to stay up to date on how that climb is progressing, please just keep an eye on the dispatches here on the website! We’ll be in touch.

Guide, Hannah Smith in the excellent bakery in Phakding while trekking out from base camp!

Guide, Hannah Smith in the excellent bakery in Phakding while trekking out from base camp!

Guide, Hannah Smith with our climbers Mandy and Andrea in Namche Bazaar while trekking out from base camp.

Guide, Hannah Smith with our climbers Mandy and Andrea in Namche Bazaar while trekking out from base camp.

Our climber, Serge, preparing to fly out of base camp. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Our climber, Serge, preparing to fly out of base camp. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Ama Dablam base camp just before we packed it up and departed. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Ama Dablam base camp just before we packed it up and departed. Photo: Terray Sylvester

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Madison Mountaineering 2022 Ama Dablam Summiteers List

The 2022 Madison Mountaineering team on the summit of Ama Dablam! Photo: Terray Sylvester

The sun has set on a beautiful 2022 Madison Mountaineering Ama Dablam expedition! Our team experienced lots of successes and summits over the course of the last few weeks in the Himalaya. Most importantly, everyone is off the mountain safely and in Kathmandu, or the comforts of their own home.

A few climbers are now heading off to make an attempt on an unclimbed ~6000m/20,000ft peak nearby for a chance to etch their names into the mountaineering history books!

We are pleased to announce the following Madison Mountaineering team members successfully obtained the summit of Ama Dablam (6812m/22,349ft) on November 5th, 2022 at approximately 9:00 AM NPT (local time):

# Name
1 Garrett Madison
2 Terray Sylvester
3 Aang Phurba Sherpa
4 Alix Sanche Mayer
5 Stephane Mayer
6 Jocelyn Cayer
7 Rich Draves
8 Serge Larouche
9 Krisli Melesk
10 Chhiring Bhote
11 Dawa Sherpa
12 Chettan Dorje Sherpa
13 Jangbu Sherpa
14 Ming Dorchi Sherpa
15 Shere Thapa Magar
Tenzi Sherpa at Camp 3. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Tenzi Sherpa at Camp 3. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Expedition leader, Garrett Madison climbing between camps 1 and 2. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Expedition leader, Garrett Madison climbing between camps 1 and 2. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Our climber, Serge, in the Gray Couloir above Camp 2. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Our climber, Serge, in the Gray Couloir above Camp 2. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Garrett Madison and Aang Phurba Sherpa on the summit! Photo: Terray Sylvester

Garrett Madison and Aang Phurba Sherpa on the summit! Photo: Terray Sylvester

Our climber, Serge, on the Mushroom Ridge below Camp 3. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Our climber, Serge, on the Mushroom Ridge below Camp 3. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Camp 2. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Camp 2. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Our climber, Alix, on the summit! Photo: Terray Sylvester

Our climber, Alix, on the summit! Photo: Terray

Our climbers, Alix, Jocelyn and Alex taking off from base camp. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Our climbers, Alix, Jocelyn and Alex taking off from base camp. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Our climber, Jocelyn, climbing toward the summit above Camp 3. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Our climber, Jocelyn, climbing toward the summit above Camp 3. Photo: Terray Sylvester

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Safely Returning to Base Camp!

Our climber, Krisli, acclimatizing above base camp with Ama Dablam in the background. Photo pulled from Madison Mountaineering archive. Photo: Terray Sylvester

The Madison Mountaineering Ama Dablam climbers who made the summit on November 5th have safely descended to base camp and are waiting to greet their fellow teammates who plan to arrive tomorrow. The summit team who had planned to make their summit push earlier in the day, were turned around due to high winds on the upper mountain – unusual for the smooth conditions they’ve had so far on this expedition. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this brief update:

Our main team is down in base camp (4600m/15,100ft) and all good. Our 3 climbers who attempted the summit (6812m/22,349ft) today with Hannah turned back due to high winds. They are in camp 1 (5791m/19,000ft) now and will descend to base camp tomorrow.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Summit Success on Ama Dablam!

Last light on Ama Dablam from Camp 1. Photo: Terray Sylvester

The first members of the Madison Mountaineering Ama Dablam team have reached the summit and safely returned to Camp 1! The other members of our team still on the upper mountain are making their summit push right now! Everyone is looking forward to being safely back in base camp and the celebration that follows. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison, checks in via Garmin inReach Mini with an update from Camp 1:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Ama Dablam (6812m/22,349ft) expedition team – today is November 5th.

We had a great summit day today – clear skies, calm winds, great views all around! About two-thirds of the team left from Camp 3 (6277m/20,594 ft) this morning – it was 4:00 AM and we reached the top around 9:00 AM, and we made our way back down to Camp 1 (5791m/19,000ft). The other third of our team moved up from Camp 2 (5980m/19,619ft) to Camp 3 today, and they will be going for the summit tomorrow morning, early. Fingers crossed they will have good weather and route conditions, but everyone’s doing well!

We’re just so thrilled that we had an amazing summit day, great weather and conditions all around. It’s been a great expedition! We’re looking forward to getting down to base camp tomorrow and then joining up with the rest of our team the following day for celebration! We’ll check in soon.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Primed for the Summit Push!

Our climber, Brian, with Pemba Sherpa on the way to Camp 2. Photo pulled from Madison Mountaineering archive. Photo: Terray Sylvester

The Ama Dablam expedition team is staged to make their summit push from Camp 2 and Camp 3, very soon now! Spirits are high and the weather conditions continue to be all-time. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison, checks in via Garmin inReach Mini with this brief update:

We just arrived in Camp 3 (6277m/20,594 ft). Half of our team is here and half in Camp 2 (5980m/19,619ft) now. Nice weather and all good.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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