The Madison Mountaineering base camp with a dusting of snow beneath Mount Everest and Nuptse.

All is well for the Madison Mountaineering Himalayan expedition teams! While our Everest, Lhotse, and Nuptse team is currently in Camp 2 continuing their acclimatization efforts, the Mountain Cleanup Project team is in base camp preparing to move forward with their summit rotation, cleaning up the different camps along the way. Everyone is in good spirits and there is lots of excitement surrounding the team as we grow closer to the summit push. Expedition guide, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from Everest Base Camp:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering spring, 2024 Everest (8848m/29,032ft), Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft), and Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft) expeditions – today is May 7th. It’s a beautiful day here in base camp (5364m/17,598ft)! We’ve been having some convection each afternoon for the last few days and that’s brought a little dusting of snow each evening here in base camp and the upper mountain. It’s just made for really beautiful conditions here at Mount Everest with fresh, pristine snow on the ground in the morning. Hopefully, it’s also improving climbing conditions up high. It’s been very dry this season, so the mountain could use a little bit of snow.

Right now, Garrett, Aang Phurba, and Cacho are up at Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) with our main group of Everest, Lhotse, and Nuptse climbers. They plan to take a rest day at Camp 2 today and then continue acclimatizing probably by climbing part way up the Lhotse Face tomorrow. Our Nuptse climbers will start preparing to move to Nuptse high camp.

I’m in base camp with Nelly Attar, our Lhotse climber and cleaner. We plan to move up to Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft) tonight, spend a night at Camp 1, then move up to Camp 2 where we’ll work on the majority of our cleanup efforts here at Lhotse. After that we’ll move on up to Camp 3 (7230m/23,720ft) and Camp 4 (7900m/25,919ft), cleaning as we go, and then head for a summit of Lhotse maybe in about a week.

All is well here! Spirits are high and it’s great to be heading up the mountain. We’ll be in touch via inReach, text, or satphone call from the mountain.


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

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Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering team stayed put in Camp 1 today, doing a hike in the Western Cwm to continue their acclimatization. Snow was a welcome sight on the mountain today and should improve climbing conditions. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from Camp 1:

All good here in C1 (6050m/19,849ft), went for an acclimatization hike today. Finally getting some snow as well! Much needed to cover the icy conditions.


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft), Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft), and Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft) expedition team have arrived in Camp 1! The team moved smoothly through the Khumbu Icefall and looks forward to the coming days of acclimatization and time spent in the Western Cwm. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this brief dispatch from Camp 1:

Greetings from C1 (6050m/19,849ft). We had a nice climb up through the icefall today, everyone is doing well here.


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

The team entering the Khumbu Icefall a few days ago to get acquainted with the initial portion of the route. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Himalayan expedition teams have set off on their first rotation through the Khumbu Icefall with plans to touch Camp 3 before returning to their base camp, and beginning preparations for their summit push! On a clear and starry night, the team set foot into the icefall navigating through what’s considered one of the most challenging sections on the route. Previous technical training in base camp reviewed the skills the team will need to use to safely and efficiently move through this landscape. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this brief dispatch from the Himalayas:

Hey! This is Garrett checking in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft), Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft), Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft) climb. We are heading up on our first rotation now to Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft)! We’re going to spend a couple of nights up there, then head on up to Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft)! It’s a beautiful, starry night. Little rumbles in the distance there… We’re excited to get going! Everyone’s doing well and we’ll check in soon.


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

Lobuche East summit photo!

It comes with great excitement to share that the Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest expedition team has completed their first rotation with 100 percent of the team reaching the summit of Lobuche East! The team has returned to base camp, greeted by additional members who have joined the expedition. All together, we look forward to a second Puja ceremony and our second rotation, this time through the Khumbu Icefall. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from the Himalayas:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft), Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft), Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft) expedition.

Today our team returned from a successful climb of Lobuche Peak (6119m/20,075ft) for training and acclimatization. 100 percent success on the peak, beautiful views, and everyone back safely. A few members of our team have been here in base camp (5364m/17,598ft) with me training the last few days, practicing fixed lines, and tomorrow we’re going to have a Puja ceremony, our second one now that everyone is here together to ask the mountain for safe passage. And then, we’re planning our first rotation up to Camps 1 (6050m/19,849ft), 2 (6500m/21,325ft), and 3 (7230m/23,720ft) shortly.

Everyone’s doing great, it’s been beautiful weather here at Everest Base Camp, and our Sherpa team has been working hard up on the route to Camp 1 and Camp 2 carrying loads. So, all is well here at Mount Everest and we’ll check in soon!

The Madison Mountaineering team ascending fixed lines toward the summit of Lobuche East!

The Madison Mountaineering team ascending fixed lines toward the summit of Lobuche East!

Everest Base Camp sitting below Everest, Lhotse, and Nuptse! (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Everest Base Camp sitting below Everest, Lhotse, and Nuptse! (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Sunset views from Everest Base Camp (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Sunset views from Everest Base Camp (Photo by Terray Sylvester)


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

The team during an acclimatization hike on Kala Patthar!

The climbing is about to begin! Our 2024 Himalayan expedition teams have conducted their Puja ceremony, done technical training in the Khumbu Icefall, and are ready for their first rotation. Their first rotation will take place on Lobuche East, another peak near base camp which has less objective hazard than the Khumbu Icefall. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from the Himalayas:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft), Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft), Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft) expedition team. Today, our Everest main team is down at Lobuche Peak (6119m/20,075ft) and leaving in a few hours for the summit of Lobuche East! (They’re) going for the summit early morning, hopefully at sunrise, and then will be back at base camp (6119m/20,075ft) in a couple of days.

Meanwhile, a couple of our climbers were out training in the Khumbu Icefall today practicing ropes and technical climbing with Aang Phurba and myself. Terray and Nelly are back from Annapurna (8091m/26,545ft) doing their climbing and cleanup project. It was a very successful project! Now they’ve just arrived to Everest Base Camp, settling in, and getting ready for Lhotse!

So, all is well here in the Khumbu Valley and on Mount Everest! Our Sherpa team has been carrying loads up to Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft), the weather has been great, and we are excited to continue with the expedition and head up the icefall here in a few days time! We’ll check in soon.

Scene from the team's Puja Ceremony - an essential piece of our Mount Everest expeditions. (Photo by Courtenay Roche)

Scene from the team’s Puja Ceremony – an essential piece of our Mount Everest expeditions. (Photo by Courtenay Roche)


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archives. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering mountain cleanup project expedition team has arrived in Everest Base Camp! The team left Lobuche Village and set forth on the path to their next stop under clear, blue Himalayan skies. Fueled by tea and the excitement of moving into their temporary home, the team stepped into base camp ready for their climbing and cleaning activities on Lhotse, the world’s fourth-highest peak! Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from base camp:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering spring cleanup and climbing expedition – today is April 25th.

Today we left Lobuche (4940m/16,210ft) under warm, sunny skies and walked up to Everest Base Camp (5364m/17,598ft) with a short break for tea in Gorak Shep (5164m/16,942ft) along the way. We got to base camp just before lunch, moved into our tents, and then had a great lunch. We’ve been relaxing and getting settled this afternoon.

It’s great to be here and great to meet the rest of the team! We’re looking forward to a rest day tomorrow, then a little bit of training and skills review. As soon as possible, we’ll start heading up the mountain to begin our cleanup work and our climbing! So, all is going really well here and we’ll be in touch in the future.


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

Climber Nelly Attar with Madison Mountaineering Everest Base Camp trekker & Lobuche East climber Jeannette Glass in the famous bakery at Lobuche Village! (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering mountain cleanup project expedition team has moved from Pheriche to Lobuche Village – a stop that wouldn’t be complete without a visit to the world’s highest bakery! The team met up with another Madison Mountaineering climber who is preparing to ascend Lobuche East, sharing laughs and treats as they swapped stories from their journeys so far. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from Nepal:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering spring cleanup and climbing expedition – today is April 24th.

Today we hiked from the village of Pheriche (4371m/14,340ft) to Lobuche Village (4940m/16,210ft) at about 5,000 meters. Another day of great weather, pretty much sunny all day with a little dusting of snow in the evening. We relaxed at the bakery here – the world’s highest bakery with one of our team’s base camp trekkers who’s now headed up to climb Lobuche East (6119m/20,075ft)! Then we relaxed after our bakery stop and now we’re about to sit down for dinner. So, all is well here and we will move to Everest Base Camp (5364m/17,598ft) tomorrow!

Climber Nelly Attar near Lobuche Village with Nuptse Range in the background. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Climber Nelly Attar near Lobuche Village with Nuptse Range in the background. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

Arriving at Tengboche Monastery, last stop before Deboche. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Mountain Cleanup Project expedition team has had great weather so far for their trek up the Khumbu Valley on the way toward base camp. Clear skies and t-shirt weather have made for perfect views of the high peaks above them as they continue on up, now settled into Deboche for the night. In the next few days, the team will continue on utilizing their acclimatization to reach Everest Base Camp where the climbing and cleanup efforts are set to begin! Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from Nepal:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering spring Annapurna (8091m/26,545ft) and Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) cleanup and climbing expedition – today is April 22nd. We are continuing our approach to Everest Base Camp (5364m/17,598ft) up the Khumbu Valley. The weather continues to be really warm, honestly a little unseasonably and surprisingly warm, but it’s very pleasant. It means we’ve had clear skies, no rain, and t-shirt weather as we’re walking up the valley.

Today we came from Namche Bazaar (3440m/11,290ft) up to Deboche (3820m/12,532ft). Along the way, we stopped for coffee in Kyangjuma with excellent views of Everest (8848m/29,032ft), Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft), Lhotse, and Ama Dablam (6812m/22,349ft)! Then we continued up an old and slightly less often used trail up the slope to Tengboche Monastery (3867m/12,687ft) where we had a nice coffee and some pastries, and then continued down the hill to Deboche. We’ll spend the night here, and then we’ll make good time hopefully since we’re well acclimatized on up to base camp. We’ll spend a night in Pheriche (4371m/14,340ft), one night in Lobuche (4940m/16,210ft), and then head straight to Everest Base Camp where we’ll rest and then start preparing to clean on the upper mountain.

Okay! We’ll be in touch.

The team taking a break at Kyangjuma with great views of the Everest Massif and Ama Dablam.

The team taking a break at Kyangjuma with great views of the Everest Massif and Ama Dablam.

Hiking up to Tengboche Monastery (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Hiking up to Tengboche Monastery (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Rhododendrons in bloom en route to Tengboche (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Rhododendrons in bloom en route to Tengboche (Photo by Terray Sylvester)


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

Climber, Nelly Attar arriving in Namche Bazaar with guide, Terray Sylvester!

Climbing and cleanup efforts continue for the Madison Mountaineering Mountain Cleanup Project expedition team! After a great expedition on Annapurna, the team has relocated to the Khumbu Valley where they’re currently en route to Everest Base Camp! This time to clean up the camps on and around Lhotse, with a summit attempt on the peak to come. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from Namche Bazaar:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering spring trash cleanup and climbing expedition – today is April 20th. We are currently walking up the final long hill into Namche Bazaar (3440m/11,290ft) here in the Khumbu Valley. We are en route to Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) where we will make a summit attempt and also continue our trash cleanup efforts in Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft), Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft), and higher on the mountain on the way up to the summit of Lhotse.

We just wrapped up our cleanup and climbing efforts on Annapurna (8091m/26,545ft). We had a great expedition there, picked up over 300 kilos of trash from Camp 2 down to Camp 1, base camp, and down the approach trail. So that felt great! And then yesterday after a few rest days in Kathmandu (1400m/4,600ft), we took a helicopter to Lukla (2860m/9,383ft) and had a really pleasant evening walk to Phakding (2610m/8,562ft).

Right now, the weather in the Khumbu is fantastic! It’s a warm, spring day – flowers are blooming, fresh veggies are for sale. We’ve been enjoying cappuccinos, good company, and excellent scenery! Our climber, Nelly Attar is in great shape and high spirits! So, we will continue on to Namche Bazaar. We’re looking forward to moving into our cozy lodge this afternoon and then relaxing in the heart of the Khumbu Valley! We will be in touch tomorrow.

Crossing the famous Edmund Hillary suspension bridge on the way to Namche Bazaar. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Crossing the famous Edmund Hillary suspension bridge on the way to Namche Bazaar. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram: