2024 Unclimbed Peak Pakistan expedition dispatches

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Summit Success on K2!

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive.

We are thrilled to announce that the Madison Mountaineering K2 expedition team has reached the summit of the world’s second-highest peak, putting all boots on top for those who left base camp on the summit rotation! We are so proud of our entire team for all of their hard work. It’s been a challenging season with tough weather that all came together for a beautiful summit day with epic views all around as far as the eye can see. The team gathered at the summit together and shared hugs and high-fives, taking in the moment and the huge feeling of accomplishment. Now back in Camp 3, the team will get some well-deserved rest before continuing their descent down the mountain tomorrow. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this celebratory dispatch from Camp 3:

100% summits success on K2 (8611m/28,251ft)! All team back in camp 3 (7250m/23,800ft) now, heading back to base camp (4968m/16,300ft) tomorrow. 6 clients, 3 western guides, 8 Nepal Sherpas, 1 Pakistan HAP.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Broad Peak Summits!

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

It comes with great pleasure to share that the Madison Mountaineering Broad Peak expedition team has successfully reached the summit, standing atop the world’s 12th-highest peak! Climber, Matthew Holt alongside Aang Phurba Sherpa and Temba Sherpa gathered on the summit and shared hugs and high-fives before starting their descent. More updates and photos to come from their climb!

Meanwhile, the K2 expedition team climbed from Camp 2 to Camp 3 today, navigating the Black Pyramid – a steep rock face that separates the two camps. With another good day of climbing under their belts, the team has crawled into their tents for the night with plans to continue their climb tomorrow! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from Camp 3:

Greetings from Camp 3 (7250m/23,800ft) on K2 (8611m/28,251ft). All good here. Broad Peak (8051m/26,414ft) team made summit today, Matthew, Aang Phurba & Temba Sherpa!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Camp 2 on K2

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering K2 expedition team has crawled into their sleeping bags after another great day of climbing in the Karakoram. The route from Camp 1 to Camp 2 involves climbing mixed-terrain and the famous House’s Chimney, one of the cruxes of the route! Spirits are high and the views from 6700m / 21,980ft can’t be beaten. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from Camp 2:

Greetings from camp 2 (6700m/21,980ft), all good here! Nice views, planning to head to camp 3 (7250m/23,800ft) tomorrow.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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K2 and Broad Peak summit pushes are underway!

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Here we go! One month ago, our team arrived in Islamabad and has since traveled to the upper reaches of an Unclimbed Peak and to Camp 2 on K2 for their acclimatization rotations. Acclimatization, which is crucial to success at high altitudes along with technical training is done, and now it’s time to head up the mountain! Our teams have left the comforts of base camp and are en route to the summits of K2 and Broad Peak. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from base camp:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering K2 (8611m/28,251ft) expedition and Broad Peak (8051m/26,414ft) expedition teams.

We are excited to report that we are starting our summit pushes today! Matthew Holt is heading up to Broad Peak along with some of our Nepal Sherpas and Pakistani porters aiming at the 27th of July for a potential Broad Peak summit. The K2 team is heading out this afternoon to advanced base camp (5303m/17,400ft) and eyeing the 28th, 29th, or maybe 30th of July as a potential summit day.

It looks like we finally got some great weather in the forecast and fingers crossed that we’ll have some great route conditions up there. The team is very excited! We’ve been having fun here in base camp (4968m/16,300ft), keeping ourselves occupied with lots of hikes, climbing activities, and fun social activities – movies. But, we’re ready to get the final summit push underway! So, all is well here in base camp and we’ll check in soon.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Preparing for the K2 summit rotation!

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Despite windy conditions high on K2, the Madison Mountaineering K2 expedition team is in good spirits and staying plenty busy in base camp while we await a weather window! Our Unclimbed Peak climbers share stories and reflect on an amazing climb, while the K2 team shares details of their first rotation and the route to Camps 1 and 2. All together now, we’re watching the weather and are ready to go when a window opens up! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from base camp:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering K2 (8611m/28,251ft) expedition team.

We finished our Unclimbed Peak project, climbing very high on a beautiful new line on a sub-peak nearby K2, almost 7,000 meters. (We) had epic views up there and just a great experience on a beautiful mountain – great day out!

The last few days we have been in base camp (4968m/16,300ft) getting ready for our K2 summit push. It’s been windy up high, so we have been waiting in base camp and staying busy with ice climbing, day hikes, and explorations around the area, keeping our fitness up and our spirits up!

Everyone is doing well here and we are just getting ready to go for a summit push once the weather looks good, maybe in a week or so. All is well here in K2 base camp and we will check in soon!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Progress on K2 and the Unclimbed Peak

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Madison Mountaineering teams on K2 and the Unclimbed Peak are making great progress so far! Our K2 expedition team climbed from Advanced Base Camp today up to Camp 1 where they are settled into their tents for the night. Meanwhile, our Unclimbed Peak team is moving up the route with our Sherpa team hard at work fixing lines towards the summit. The team plans to take a rest day tomorrow and is aiming to make their summit push the following day! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from camp on the Unclimbed Peak:

Cacho, Benny, and 4 climbers are in Camp 1 (6065m/19,900ft) on the Abruzzi route. We had a short climb today, resting tomorrow in prep for our summit attempt!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Unclimbed Peak and K2 climbs have commenced!

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Climbing for the Madison Mountaineering Karakoram expedition teams has begun! Our K2 expedition team has started their first rotation on the Abruzzi route where they’ll acclimate at higher altitudes and familiarize themselves with the route along the way. Meanwhile, the Unclimbed Peak expedition team has moved to their advanced base camp and is getting ready to make their ascent later this week. It’s an exciting time with lots of climbing action going on in the Karakoram! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from advanced base camp on the Unclimbed Peak:

Greetings from the Unclimbed Peak Advanced Base Camp (ABC)! We’ve moved up here for a few days, hoping to climb it on July 11-13. All is well here!

Cacho and Benny are heading up today with our K2 (8611m/28,251ft) team on a rotation to spend five nights total on the Abruzzi route. (ABC, C1, C2)

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Settled into K2 Base Camp

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Karakoram expedition teams have settled into their base camp at the foot of K2! The team enjoyed excellent views of some of the world’s great peaks like the Trango Towers, Masherbrum, and Gasherbrums throughout the five-day trek from Askole. Now in base camp, the team has begun technical skills review and organizing for the climbing ahead. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from base camp:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering K2 (8611m/28,251ft), Unclimbed Peak, and Broad Peak (8051m/26,414ft) expedition team. Happy Fourth of July here from K2 base camp (4968m/16,300ft) in Pakistan!

The team is doing well! We did training today. Tomorrow we’re going for an acclimatization hike up to advanced base camp (5303m/17,400ft). The weather has been great and we’ve been enjoying our time here settling into base camp, taking showers, having great meals, watching movies, and getting organized and ready for the climbing ahead!

We’re happy to celebrate the American Independence Day here! Great evening here with the team and we’re looking forward to some good days ahead. We’ll check in soon! All is well here at K2 base camp.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Nearing K2 Base Camp!

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Karakoram expedition teams are nearing their base camp at the foot of K2! The trek has been excellent so far with great views of awe-inspiring peaks and time well spent together as a team. It won’t be long until we’re settling into our base camp tents, beginning skills review, and organizing equipment for the climbing to come! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from the Karakoram:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the K2 (8611m/28,251ft) expedition team along with our Unclimbed Peak team and Broad Peak (8051m/26,414ft) climber. We are trekking to base camp (4968m/16,300ft)!

We’ve had a great trek so far. We’re at Goro 2 Camp (4285m/14,058ft), just before Concordia (4570m/14,993ft). We’ve had great weather, amazing views of all the surrounding peaks, and looking forward to arriving in K2 Base Camp in a day or two.

All is well here! We’re having a great time and will check in soon.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Trekking to Johla Camp

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

After an adventurous Jeep ride from Skardu to Askole, the team is excited to hit the trail and begin the trek through the Karakoram on the way toward base camp. Clear skies will make for excellent views as they trek up the valley with peaks in every direction. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from Askole:

Hello! This is Garrett checking in for the Madison Mountaineering K2 (8611m/28,251ft) expedition along with the Unclimbed Peak and Broad Peak (8051m/26,414ft) expeditions.

We made it to Askole (3040m/9,974ft) yesterday from Skardu (2220m/7283ft). We had an adventurous Jeep ride and a restful night in Askole – nice and cool up here in the high country! Today we are starting the trek to base camp. It’s beautiful weather here, the group’s doing well, and we’re excited to get underway! First day heading up the trail and looking forward to reaching Jhola camp (3151m/10,338ft) this afternoon.

All is well and we’ll check in soon!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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