All Makalu expedition dispatches

Back in base camp after the summit!

The team on the summit! (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Makalu expedition team has safely returned to their base camp after topping out on the world’s fifth-highest peak! Just in time for dinner, the team descended into their camp, concluding another chapter of this challenging expedition. The team climbed under the moon and stars from Camp 3, gaining Makalu’s summit ridge as the sunrise began to light-up the surrounding peaks – a welcome sight after climbing in the dark for so long! With Alex in our hearts, our team stepped onto the summit and embraced, taking in the moment as this dream was realized before turning back and heading down. We’re so proud of this team! Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from Makalu Base Camp:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Makalu (8463m/27,766ft) expedition – today is May the 12th. It’s a beautiful morning here in base camp, sunny and warm, and we are relaxing after our successful summit yesterday morning! We stood on top of the fifth-highest peak on the planet yesterday, about 6:00 AM.

It was a great summit day! We left Camp 3 at about 9:30 PM on May 10th, climbed through the night under a mostly full moon and arrived on Makalu’s summit ridge just before sunrise, which meant we got to watch as the morning sun illuminated the Kangshung Face of Everest (8848m/29,032ft) and Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft), right next door. We could see headlamps of climbers way up on Everest on the southeast ridge, just below the summit. So yeah, it was a really great summit day and then we descended all the way back down to base camp yesterday evening and arrived in time for dinner at our normal time, 6:00.

It was a great climb and I think the best possible way to wrap up what has been a really difficult time here at Makalu for the whole Madison Mountaineering team after our teammate and friend, Alex Pancoe passed away so suddenly at Camp 2 during our acclimatization rotation. That event just left us all reeling, but we talked it over and it was clear to us that Alex brought, he brought so much stoke to the mountains. He loved being here so much and we were sure that he would have wanted us to keep climbing. So, on the 8th, we realized that we had just enough time to get to the summit in good weather before jet stream winds returned to the top of the mountain, so we went for it.

We will spend the rest of today packing up, wrapping up the expedition and then we are going to start making our way back down to lower elevations! We’ll be in touch.

Morning light on Lhotse and Everest (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Morning light on Lhotse and Everest (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Final steps to Makalu's summit ridge (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Final steps to Makalu’s summit ridge (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Traversing Makalu's summit ridge (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Traversing Makalu’s summit ridge (photo by Terray Sylvester)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

/0 Comments/by
,

Makalu Summit Success!

Our team climbing above base camp earlier in the expedition (photo by Terray Sylvester)

The morning of May 11th brought uplifting news to our Everest–Lhotse expedition team: our Makalu team had successfully reached the summit! After a deeply emotional beginning to the journey with the loss of our dear teammate, Alex Pancoe, the entire team came together on the top, sharing heartfelt hugs and high-fives. We couldn’t be prouder of this incredible achievement — and we know Alex would be, too. As they awaited updates from the world’s fifth-highest peak, our Everest–Lhotse team rejoiced in the news, drawing inspiration as they prepare for their own summit rotation. Expedition leader Garrett Madison shares this latest dispatch from Everest Base Camp:

Hello! This is Garrett checking in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft) team and today is Sunday, May 11th in the morning here in Nepal.

We’ve got some good news to report – our Makalu (8463m/27,766ft) team led by Terray Sylvester, along with climbers Kristin and Aga, and five of our stellar Nepal Sherpas all summited Makalu today! They reported great weather conditions and had a wonderful summit. Now, they’re making their way down to Camp 3 and Camp 2.

So, we’re very happy for our Makalu team! It’s been a great end to their season, despite losing one of the team members, Alex Pancoe, to a likely cardiac arrest in Camp 2 earlier in the season. So, wonderful conclusion to the Makalu expedition!

The Everest team here, most of us are down in Namche (3440m/11,290ft) actually resting and recuperating, getting ready for the final summit rotation. A couple members are up here in base camp (5364m/17,598ft) hanging out with myself and guides, Conan and Cacho, Aang Phurba’s up at Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) managing the Sherpa team at the moment.

So, all is well here on Mount Everest! We’re just watching the forecast and the rope fixing is in, so waiting for the winds to drop a bit and our members to be 100% before we embark on our final summit push!

So, all is well here in Nepal on Everest! We’ll check in soon.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

/0 Comments/by

Makalu Camp 3

The team together earlier in the expedition with Makalu behind (photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Makalu expedition team has ascended to Camp 3 and is now setting their sights on the summit. After a successful day of climbing, the team is settled into their sleeping bags, ready and in position for the final push. The day began with breathtaking views of Everest and Lhotse nearby, and the climbers moved efficiently and powerfully through mixed terrain of snow, rock, and ice. With a favorable weather window, they’re fully prepared to make their summit bid. Expedition leader Terray Sylvester shares this update from Makalu:

Hello from Camp 3 (7,480m / 24,540′). This morning we made good time here over the varied terrain (golden granite, snow, occasional ice) that leads to this camp located just on the far side of the Makalu La. The whole team is moving with strength and determination. I’m super proud of our climbers and sherpa staff. Clear skies this morning afforded us excellent views of Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) and Everest (8848m/29,032ft) and the South Col (7900m/25,919ft) between them, seemingly just a stone’s throw away. Now the afternoon convective pattern that has prevailed lately has wrapped us in clouds. We plan to relax for the rest of the evening before potentially starting our final summit push. We’ll be in touch tomorrow.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

/0 Comments/by

Makalu team on the move!

The team together in base camp earlier in the expedition (photo by Terray Sylvester)

If Alex could talk to us, he would tell us to keep climbing. After much deliberation, the Madison Mountaineering Makalu expedition team is on the move, making their summit push in Alex’s honor. The team climbed from their base camp to Camp 2 today, moving strongly and efficiently up the route. Now crawling into their tents for the night, the team looks forward to climbing higher up the mountain tomorrow! Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from Makalu:

Hello from Camp 2. This is Terray checking in via Inreach. The first day of our summit push went well as we made good time up 900 meters from Base Camp to Camp 2. We’re taking it one day, one step at a time, but looking forward to climbing to Camp 3 on the Makalu La tomorrow. We’ll be in touch then.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

/0 Comments/by

Makalu Expedition Update

Alex relaxing outside his tent at Camp 2 on Makalu.
We are heartbroken by the sudden loss of our teammate and dear friend, Alex Pancoe, who passed away unexpectedly on the evening of May 4th at Camp 2 on Makalu. Alex was sharing a tent with our expedition leader and guide, Terray Sylvester. The two had just finished dinner and were settling into their sleeping bags, chatting casually, when Alex suddenly became unresponsive. Despite hours of resuscitation efforts by Terray and our team of climbers and Sherpa at Camp 2, they were unable to revive him.
 
Earlier that day, Alex had been in high spirits, full of energy, and was considered one of the strongest members of the team. He had been thoroughly enjoying the expedition. Above all, Alex was a devoted father who spoke often and lovingly about his children—they were the center of his world.
 
His passing is a tremendous loss, and our hearts go out to his family during this incredibly difficult time.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

/1 Comment/by

Move to Camp 2 on Makalu

The Madison Mountaineering Makalu expedition team continued their acclimatization rotation, moving up to Camp 2 today with beautiful weather and epic views along the way. As they moved further up the route, two other familiar giants, Everest and Lhotse came into view. An inspiring venue, our team enjoyed views of the surrounding peaks as they ate dinner and finished up another great day in the Himalayas. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from Makalu:

It’s a beautiful evening in Camp 2 at just above 6,600m. Today we moved here from Camp 1 under sunny skies with Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) and Everest (8848m/29,032ft) emerging into view over the ridge to the west of us. Now we’re eating dinner in the evening sun with a perspective onto the South Col (7906m/25,938ft) and Everest’s upper Kangshung Face. The team is doing well. We’ll be in touch tomorrow!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

/0 Comments/by

Climb high sleep low

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archives.

The Madison Mountaineering Makalu expedition team continued their acclimatization efforts today by climbing from Camp 1 to Camp 2, and then returning back to Camp 1. After arriving back in Camp 1, the team enjoyed some rest and are now crawling into their sleeping bags for the night, with plans to move up to Camp 2 tomorrow. This practice of climbing high and sleeping low helps in the acclimatization process as they move higher up the mountain. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from Makalu:

Hello from Camp 1 on Makalu! After a windy night, we woke to sunny skies today. We had a nice breakfast and then climbed to Camp 2 (6,650m) as part of our active rest day. We spent the rest of the afternoon relaxing back in Camp 1, and now we’re preparing dinner during an evening snow shower. We’re looking forward to moving to Camp 2 tomorrow. We’ll be in touch!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

/0 Comments/by

On the move on Makalu!

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archives.

The Madison Mountaineering Makalu expedition team is on the move! Weather improved throughout the day as the team climbed higher up the mountain before crawling into their tents for the night. The terrain is inspiring, both the route ahead of them and other surrounding peaks – no shortage of great views here! Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from Makalu:

Hello from Makalu Camp 1! Today we left base camp after breakfast and enjoyed a peaceful climb here, at first in light snowfall, and then under clearing skies. Now we’re settled into our tents at 6,400m and the skies have cleared. We have great views of the route above us, plus Baruntse (7162m/23,497ft), Ama Dablam (6812m/22,349ft) and many other peaks. We’re looking forward to an active rest day tomorrow before we move to Camp 2. We’ll be in touch tomorrow!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

/0 Comments/by

Seeing the route on Makalu!

The team near crampon point with Makalu behind (photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Makalu expedition team took to the climbing route today, hiking up to ‘crampon point’ to acclimatize and get familiar with the start of the path to the summit. Under blue skies and with the sun shining, the team moved well above base camp, taking in views of the mountain, surrounding peaks, and down to their base camp below. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch after another great day on Makalu:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Makalu (8463m/27,766ft) expedition – today is April 29th.

Today, we woke up after a windy night here in base camp. But, the sun was shining so we took the opportunity to hike on up to ‘crampon point’ at about 6,000-meters, a little more than an hour above base camp. It was a great hike! The fresh snow made the footing a little difficult, but the team did really well and we had excellent views back down toward base camp and of all the peaks to the south of us, as well as a perspective almost all the way to the summit of Makalu!

We made it back down, had a late lunch, and we’ve just been resting since then. We’re looking forward to another movie in our base camp cinema tonight and dinner before that! So all is well here in base camp and we’ll be in touch tomorrow.

En route to ‘crampon point’ (photo by Terray Sylvester)

En route to ‘crampon point’ (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Climbing up the route (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Climbing up the route (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Our climber, Aga, with a view back toward base camp (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Our climber, Aga, with a view back toward base camp (photo by Terray Sylvester)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

/0 Comments/by

Makalu Expedition Puja

The Madison Mountaineering Makalu team post-puja (photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Makalu expedition team held their Puja ceremony today. With a fresh blanket of snow on base camp, the team came together to ask the mountain for safe passage before they begin their climb. As they prepared for their second night in base camp, the clouds broke, treating the team to blue skies and a gorgeous show of alpenglow on the surrounding peaks before sitting down for dinner. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from Makalu:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Makalu (8463m/27,766ft) expedition – today is April 28th.

Today we had our pre-climb Puja! That’s always a nice event for the team to come together and ask the mountain for safe passage before we start climbing above base camp. It snowed for most of the day. We woke up to a couple of inches on the ground and we got a couple more inches over the course of the day. But right now, blue skies are above us, the top of the mountain is out, and we’re looking at some really beautiful alpenglow on the peaks to the southwest of us.

So, all in all it’s been a really good day here in base camp! We’re just about to sit down to dinner and tomorrow, we’re planning a hike up to crampon point.

All is well. We’ll be in touch tomorrow!

During the puja (photo by Terray Sylvester)

During the puja (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Our climber, Aga, receiving a blessing during the puja (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Our climber, Aga, receiving a blessing during the puja (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Our climber, Kristin, receiving a blessing during the puja (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Our climber, Kristin, receiving a blessing during the puja (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Our climber, Alex, receiving a blessing during the puja (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Our climber, Alex, receiving a blessing during the puja (photo by Terray Sylvester)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

/0 Comments/by