Chopicalqui and Pisco!
Join us in the Cordillera Blanca of Peru for some fantastic climbing on peaks up to nearly 6400m (21,000 ft) high. We will climb Pisco first (5752m/18,871 ft), and then attempt the nearby Chopicalqui (6354m/20,846 ft) second. The setting is spectacular, with these and many other jagged high peaks covered in snow, with lush meadows and grasslands below, in addition to crystal clear blue lakes. These peaks are excellent training for higher altitude climbs and are great for building upon technical climbing skills such as cramponing, rope travel, and ice axe technique. We have ample time for acclimatization and utilize high camps to position us for the summit attempts. This is one of our favorite programs in the Andes. The local Peruvians / Quechuas we work with are very positive and engaging, and we are blessed to share time with them in the mountains at our base camp and the high camps.
Day 1: Arrive in Lima, Peru.
Day 2: We board our private air-conditioned bus and make the scenic drive to Huaraz. Along the way, we see the coastline and stop for a traditional lunch. We arrive at our hotel in the evening and begin acclimatizing that night, with an elevation of approximately 3000m or 10,000 ft.
Day 3: We spend the day organizing gear and acclimating in Huaraz. A mountain bike ride is optional. We enjoy a nice dinner and sleep in our hotel again.
Day 4: We drive through the countryside and beautiful lakes to the beginning of the hike to Pisco base camp. After unloading from the bus we make the short hike to our camp and settle in for the night.
Day 5: We make a carry to our Camp 1 on Pisco and return to base camp to sleep.
Day 6: After a leisurely breakfast we pack up and climb to our Camp 1, and review some technical climbing skills.
Day 7: We review climbing skills and continue acclimating.
Day 8: We negotiate the rocky moraine and climb up to our Camp 2, adjacent to the glacier. We go to bed early in preparation for an alpine start!
Day 9: We awake early and after a quick breakfast, depart camp to climb the glaciated slopes leading up to the Col, then make our way through crevasses and up steeper slopes to the summit (5752m/18,871 ft). The views are spectacular and we can see many of the high peaks in the Andes. We return to camp and continue back down to our base camp.
Day 10: Today we relax in base camp and have an optional afternoon hike to a beautiful nearby lake.
Day 11: Now that we are acclimated and rested after climbing Pisco, we focus on our next challenge: Chopicalqui. We depart camp and climb to an intermediate camp on Chopicalqui.
Day 12: Today we make a carry to the high camp, climbing the glaciated slopes, then return to intermediate camp to sleep.
Day 13: Move to high camp. We rest in the afternoon and go to bed early in preparation for another alpine start!
Day 14: Summit day!! We awake before dawn and after a quick breakfast head out onto the glaciated slopes, climbing varying degrees of snow and ice, a ridge line, and a few steep sections, then reach the summit (6354m/20,846 ft). The summit is small and well defined, and a worthy accomplishment! We descend and sleep in our intermediate camp.
Day 15: We return to our base camp, pack up camp, and make the short hike to our private bus, then drive back to Huaraz where we check into our hotel and enjoy the comforts of civilization!
Day 16: We drive from Huaraz in our bus to Lima, then depart for home that evening.
June 15-30, 2020
• Airport pickup upon arrival in Lima
• Welcome dinner
• Accommodations in Lima for 1 night upon arrival, 2 nights in Huaraz before the climbs and then 1 night in Huaraz after the climbs
• All ground transport during the expedition
• All group gear such as tents, cooking equipment, climbing gear, etc.
• Communications equipment (VHF handheld radios)
• All food and meals on the mountains
• Western guide
• Peruvian support staff including cooks, porters, base camp manager
Costs Do Not Include:
• Bank transfer fees, if applicable
• Airfare to Peru
• Meals in Lima or Huaraz
• All expenses incurred for an early departure from the expedition
• Medical and evacuation insurance, trip cancellation insurance
• Personal items (see gear list)
• There are no refunds for the deposit or balance payments for this expedition. This includes but is not limited to, expeditions that conclude without a summit or progress towards a summit for participants due to route conditions, weather, insufficient manpower, or any other factor outside the control of Madison Mountaineering. Expedition leader has the final say on the expedition conclusion and will make all best efforts within our margin of safety.
• Participants that choose to leave an active expedition for any reason are not entitled to any refunds
• Madison Mountaineering, LLC highly recommends trip cancellation insurance for all expeditions
• Due to the nature and heavy costs of government and operator permits, Madison Mountaineering must adhere to a stringent refund policy
• Deposit due with registration materials
• All balances are due 120 days prior to departure date unless otherwise specified
• Participants whose balances are not received by the 120-day deadline as stated above, risk forfeiture of their funds and their place on the expedition
Note: Madison Mountaineering, LLC reserves the right to waive any fees. As we offer personalized service, we will attempt to accommodate changes and cancellations when necessary, waiving certain fees when feasible. Deposits paid by participants acknowledge the above cancellation terms.
Ice Axe: General mountaineering tool (65cm)
Crampons: General mountaineering crampons
Climbing Helmet: Must be able to fit over your ski hat
Ascender: 1 right or left hand ascender (Petzel brand is best)
Alpine Climbing Harness: A mountaineering harness, with adjustable leg loops. Not a rock climbing “sport” harness.
Carabineers: 3 locking and 3 regular
Rappel device: ATC or figure 8
Mountaineering boots: Nepal Evo, Koflach Arctis Expe, etc.
Hiking shoes: comfortable boots or shoes for walking around base camps.
Booties: Optional, down is best.
Wool or synthetic socks: 6 pair
Liner socks: 3 pair
Synthetic Short underwear: A non cotton style underwear.
Lightweight Long Underwear: 2-3 pair long sleeve shirt and long pants
Heavyweight long underwear: 1 pair
Short Sleeve Synthetic Shirt: 1-2 pair
Lightweight Nylon Pants: 1-2 pair
Soft Shell jacket: With or without hood
Soft Shell Pants: With accessory side pockets
Hard Shell Jacket with hood: A waterproof and breathable shell jacket
Hard Shell Pants: Waterproof and breathable shell pants
Down Parka with hood: This “puffy” jacket we wear when taking breaks and sometimes when climbing on a cold summit day.
Insulated synthetic Pants: These are nice to have when climbing on summit day.
Synthetic or wool hat (ski hat).
Balaclava: to protect your neck and face in high winds.
Baseball Cap or other sun hat: To shade your face / neck from the sun on a hot day.
Bandana or Buff: To protect your neck / face from the sun.
Glacier glasses: Full protection with side covers or wrap around.
Ski goggles: To be worn on summit day in the event of high winds.
Lightweight synthetic liner gloves: For wearing on a hot day.
Soft shell gloves: To wear for moderate cold / wind.
Shell glove with insulated liner: To wear for severe cold / strong wind.
Expedition Mitts: Large enough to fit a liner glove inside.
Expedition Backpack: 50L pack should be large enough.
Sleeping Bag: rated to at least -20°F.
Compression stuff sacks: For reducing volume of the sleeping bag, down parka, etc., in your pack.
Self inflating sleeping pad: Full length is preferred.
Closed cell foam pad: To be used in conjunction with the inflating pad for warmth and comfort when sleeping.
Trekking poles: Adjustable
Cup: A plastic 16 oz. minimum cup or mug
Bowl: A plastic bowl for eating dinner or breakfast out of
Spoon: Plastic spoon (lexan)
Headlamp: With 2 extra sets of new batteries
Sunscreen: SPF 50 or better
Lip screen: SPF 30 or better (2 sticks).
Water bottles: 2 or 3 wide mouth bottles with 1 liter capacity.
Water bottle parkas (2): fully insulated with zip opening.
Thermos: 1 liter
Pee bottle: 1 liter minimum bottle for convenience at night in the tent.
Toiletry bag: Include toilet paper and hand sanitizer and small towel
Hand warmers & toe warmers: 2 sets of each. Or use Hot Tronics for foot warmer system for summit days.
Knife or multi tool (optional).
Trash compactor bags: to line back pack and stuff sacks in the event of rain or wet snow is falling on us.
Camera: bring extra batteries and memory cards.
Travel Clothes: For days in Lima / Huaraz.
Duffel bags (2) with locks: To transport equipment.
Base Camp Items: Kindle, Ipad, smart phone, etc.
Snack food: Please bring a few days of your favorite climbing snack food such as bars, gels, nuts, beef jerky, etc. A variety of salty and sweet is good.
Small personal first aid kit: Include athletic tape, band aids, Ibuprofen, blister care, personal medications, etc.
Medications and Prescriptions: Bring antibiotics (Azithromycin, etc.), and altitude medicine such as Diamox, Dexamethasone, Tadalafil.
Madison Mountaineering is recognized for well thought out strategy in high altitude climbing expeditions, as well as high-quality service throughout. Because we have two decades of experience in the planning and coordination of mountaineering expeditions, our reputation is excellent. We strive to make each expedition the best possible experience for our climbers and focus on our 3 primary goals of success in reaching the summit, returning safely, and having fun!
Our guides are some of the best and most experienced in the industry, having a strong grasp of technical climbing, expedition, and high altitude experience, along with strong interpersonal skills. Our teams are small and equipped with the best support available to ensure the highest chance of success. We are renowned for our comfortable base camps, high-quality food, first-rate communications, and medical support services, all of which are overseen by a professional member of our team.
Most of our climbers have either climbed with us before, been referred by a friend who has climbed with us, or met one of our teams while attempting another peak and decided to join us for their next expedition. We work hard to facilitate safe, successful, and enjoyable expeditions for all of our climbers. Our track record and past climber testimonials prove we are not only experts in our field, but we also love what we do!