Tag: Lukla

Our autumn Ama Dablam expedition kicked off earlier this week and the team has been trekking their way up to base camp from the mountain airport village of Lukla (2860m / 9,380ft.).  The first stop was the village of Monjo where they entered the Sagarmatha National Park. and from there up to Namche Bazaar where a couple of days were spent resting.  On their acclimatization hikes above Namche, the team caught the first glimpses of their objective:  Ama Dablam.  Great hiking weather with dramatic clouds unveiling the summit.  From Namche, the team pressed on to Deboche and were able to spend some time enjoying the Tengboche Monastery on their way.

Today they are now at the last village before Ama Dablam base camp, Pangboche and should be crossing the river and finishing up the trek to BC tomorrow.

Team arrives Lukla

Team arrives Lukla

Brook and Rick at the hanging bridges below Namche

Brook and Rick at the hanging bridges below Namche

Having a great trek and now are on the Namche cappuchino tour

Having a great trek and now are on the Namche cappuchino tour

Ama Dablam team - Brook, Conan, Rick

Ama Dablam team – Brook, Conan, Rick

Ama Dablam

Ama Dablam

First glimpse of the Ama Dablam

First glimpse of the Ama Dablam

Ama Dablam team checking out the Tengboche Monastery en route to Pangboche

Ama Dablam team checking out the Tengboche Monastery en route to Pangboche


Also follow the team on Instagram:  @MadisonMtng

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We are pleased to offer a new program that combines the majesty of Mount Everest with world-class ice climbing for participants of all levels. By basing out of Madison Mountaineering’s signature Everest base camp, participants get to live at the foot of Mount Everest, while enjoying the luxuries and comforts of the most professionally managed camp on the mountain. We have individual ‘box’ tents where members can stand up & have a cot with a thick mattress, we have hot showers, a first-rate dining tent with fresh meat and vegetables flown in regularly from Kathmandu, and a leisure tent to stretch out in, do yoga, etc. The camp is positioned adjacent to the famous Khumbu glacier ice pinnacles where we do the majority of our climbing.

Day 1: Arrive Kathmandu. We pick you up at the airport and go to the iconic Yak & Yeti hotel where we do an equipment check, then see some of the famous sights in Kathmandu such as Buddhist and Hindu temples, then we have a team dinner before heading off to bed.

Day 2: Helicopter flight to Namche Bazaar. We depart the Yak & Yeti hotel early and fly into the Khumbu valley to the village of Namche Bazaar, where we stay in the lovely Panorama lodge. We tour the ‘capital of the Khumbu’ village and have a restful night at 10,500 ft.

Day 3: Acclimatization hike above Namche. We hike to the Everest View Hotel and have tea overlooking the iconic peaks of Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, and Ama Dablam. We return to our lodge and spend the night.

Day 4: Trek to Debuche. We trek through the beautiful Khumbu valley to the Tengboche monastery, then descend into the rhododendron forest to our lodge for the night.

Day 5: Trek to Pheriche. We continue trekking up the Khumbu valley with magnificent views of Ama Dablam. We stop in Pangboche for a blessing by the ‘high lama’ of the Buddhist monastery, then continue onward to the Edelweiss lodge for the night.

Day 6: Acclimatization hike above Pheriche. We hike up a nearby ridge to gain a spectacular view of many famous Himalayan peaks such as Makalu, Cho Oyu, Cholatse, and Ama Dablam. We return to Pheriche and visit the Himalayan Rescue Association medical post for a talk on altitude issues with the human body. We have a restful night in our lodge.

Day 7: Trek to Lobuche. We trek upwards and visit the Everest memorials, taking in this heavy yet important legacy to climbers that have perished on the mountain. We continue to the village of Lobuche where we stay for the night. We visit the ‘world’s highest bakery’ for coffee and pastries before dinner.

Day 8: Arrive in Everest base camp! We trek past the village of Gorak Shep, then hike up nearby Kala Pattar (18,250) for a magnificent view of Mount Everest, then continue to base camp. We arrive in base camp and have a hot meal, then tour the camp and move into our personal tents for the duration of our stay. We do an ice climbing info session and prepare for our first day out climbing!

Days 9-12: Climb on! After a hearty breakfast we head out onto the Khumbu ice pinnacles! Our staff has already set up a course with several routes we can climb and practice our techniques on. Tim Emmett instructs climbers as we gradually tackle more difficult ice routes and pinnacles during the program. In addition to ice climbing on top rope & lead climbing, we discuss and practice fixed line ascension, tyrolean traverses, zip-lining, and free soloing, all from one of Ice Climbing’s pioneering and top climbers in the world. Each day climbers are provided with 3 hot meals in Madison Mountaineering’s luxury base camp, and climbers have access to the camp’s hot showers, leisure tent, WiFi, and laundry service.

Day 13: Climbers depart Everest base camp by helicopter and fly to Kathmandu. This helicopter flight is truly one of the most spectacular helicopter flights in the world, as we first have a scenic tour of Everest base camp and the surrounding peaks, then descend around and have birds-eye views of the peaks that we came to know from our trek in such as Ama Dablam and Cholatse. We have a celebratory team dinner in Kathmandu then sleep in the Yak & Yeti hotel in preparation for our departure from Nepal.

Day 14: We head to the airport to board our flights for home.

Cost: $9,850
Deposit: $2,500

2020
March 27 – April 09

Costs Include:
• Accommodations at the Yak & Yeti hotel for one night before and one night after travel into the Khumbu
• Airport pick up upon arrival
• Welcome dinner in Kathmandu
• All in-country flights
• All lodging while in the Khumbu
• All meals while in the Khumbu
• Permits and Park entrance fees
• Guide, Sherpa guides, Nepali staff to carry loads, etc.

Costs Do Not Include:
• Personal items (see Equipment list)
• Bank wire transfer fees, if applicable
• Meals in Kathmandu
• Alcoholic beverages
• Bottled or canned beverages
• Specialty coffee or espresso drinks
• Option to upgrade to single room
• Any costs as the result of an early departure from the program

Cancellation/Refund Policy
• There are no refunds for the deposit or balance payments for this expedition. This includes but is not limited to, expeditions that conclude without reaching objectives or progress towards objectives for participants due to route conditions, weather, insufficient manpower, or any other factor outside the control of Madison Mountaineering. Expedition leader has the final say on the expedition conclusion and will make all best efforts within our margin of safety.
• Participants that choose to leave an active expedition for any reason are not entitled to any refunds
• Madison Mountaineering, LLC highly recommends trip cancellation insurance for all expeditions
• Due to the nature and heavy costs of government and operator permits, Madison Mountaineering must adhere to a stringent refund policy
• Deposit due with registration materials
• All balances are due 120 days prior to departure date unless otherwise specified
• Participants whose balances are not received by the 120-day deadline as stated above, risk forfeiture of their funds and their place on the expedition

Note: Madison Mountaineering, LLC reserves the right to waive any fees. As we offer personalized service, we will attempt to accommodate changes and cancellations when necessary, waiving certain fees when feasible. Deposits paid by participants acknowledge the above cancellation terms.

Base Layers
• Short Underwear: 2-3 pair of synthetic short underwear
• Long Underwear: 2-3 pair lightweight long underwear pants and shirts. 1 pair of heavy expedition weight long underwear.

Mid Layers
• Soft Shell Jacket: A hooded jacket
• Soft Shell pants: For trekking and climbing

Windproof/Rain Layers
• Hard Shell Jacket: To be worn in wet conditions
• Hard Shell Pants: To be worn in wet conditions, these pants should have full side zippers.

Insulation Layers
• Insulated Jacket: PrimaLoft or Down
• Expedition Down Parka: A hooded down jacket with 800 minimum down fill.
• Insulated Pants: PrimaLoft or Down, these should have full side zippers.

Headwear
• Warm Hat: A warm fleece or wool hat.
• Balaclava: to cover your face and neck on windy days.
• Sun hat: A baseball style sun camp.
• Buff: 1-3 of these to wear around your neck & face to block the wind, UV rays, dust.

Eyewear
• Glacier Glasses: wrap around style sunglasses with dark lenses

Gloves
• Waterproof Shell gloves with insulated liner: 2 pair’s for ice climbing
• Soft Shell Gloves: 1 pair
• Shell mittens with insulated liner: 1 pair

Footwear
• Socks: Minimum 3 pair thick mountaineering socks and 3 pair liner socks
• Light hiking boots or trekking shoes: For the trek to base camp, these can be worn at base camp
• Ice climbing Boots: A boot with a built-in gaiter such as the Scarpa Phantom Tech, or Phantom 6000

Sleeping Equipment
• Sleeping Bag: Rated to at least -20 °F. Down is preferable over synthetic.
• Self Inflating pad: A full-length air mattress
• Closed Cell foam pad: Full length is best

Mountaineering Gear
• Ice climbing Backpack: A 45-liter internal frame backpack.
• Compression stuff sacks: for reducing volume for your sleeping bag and down jacket.
• Trash Compactor bags (4): To line stuff sacks and separate gear
• Trekking Backpack: Optional. A small pack for the trek in.
• Trekking Poles: Adjustable poles for the trek to base camp
• Ice Axes: 2 technical tools for ice climbing (Less than 60cm)
• Crampons: Ice climbing
• Helmet: Must fit over a thick hat
• Climbing harness/Alpine
• Carabineers: 4 locking and 2 non-locking
• Belay / Rappel device: For rappelling or belaying climbers
• Ascender: One right or left-hand ascender (Petzl is best)
• Prussik Cord: 20’ or 7 meters of 6mm cord.
• Headlamp: Bring a spare set of batteries

Luggage
• Large Duffel Bag with lock: for transporting all personal gear to base camp.
• Small duffel bag: to store items in the hotel
• Travel Clothes: For days in Kathmandu

Additional Food Items
• Climbing Snacks:
‣ Electrolyte Replacement Drink Mix: Bring a supply for 12 days such as Nuun.
‣ Energy Gel: Single serving gel packs such as GU, Clifshot, Powergel, etc.)
‣ Energy Bars: Power bar, Cliff bar, etc.

Other Equipment
• Water bottles: 2 bottles with 1-liter capacity each
• Water Bottle Parkas: To keep your water from freezing
• Thermos: 1-liter capacity
• Water Purification System: Tablets or Steripen
• Sunscreen: 2 tubes, SPF 40 or stronger
• Lip screen: 2 sticks, SPF 50 or stronger
• Toiletry Bag: Toothpaste, Toothbrush, baby wipes, etc.
• Pee Bottle: 1-liter capacity minimum
• Hand Sanitizer: 2 small bottles
• Hand warmers / Toe warmers: 3 sets of each
• Knife: Optional
• Small Personal First Aid Kit: Athletic tape, band-aids, Ibuprofen, Moleskin, blister care products, personal medications, cough drops
• Medications:
  ‣ Acetazolamide (Diamox) for altitude illness
  ‣ Antibiotics such as Ciprofloxin or Azithromycin for gastrointestinal or respiratory illness
  ‣ Ibuprofen for muscle soreness
  ‣ Pepto Bismol for loose stool
  ‣ Excedrin for headaches
  ‣ Anti-nausea medications

Optional Electronics
• Camera: lightweight with extra batteries

Other Optional Items
• Female urination device (FUD)

Madison Mountaineering is recognized for well thought out strategy in high altitude climbing expeditions, as well as high-quality service throughout. Because we have two decades of experience in the planning and coordination of mountaineering expeditions, our reputation is excellent. We strive to make each expedition the best possible experience for our climbers and focus on our 3 primary goals of success in reaching the summit, returning safely, and having fun!

Our guides are some of the best and most experienced in the industry, having a strong grasp of technical climbing, expedition, and high altitude experience, along with strong interpersonal skills. Our teams are small and equipped with the best support available to ensure the highest chance of success. We are renowned for our comfortable base camps, high-quality food, first-rate communications, and medical support services, all of which are overseen by a professional member of our team.

Most of our climbers have either climbed with us before, been referred by a friend who has climbed with us, or met one of our teams while attempting another peak and decided to join us for their next expedition. We work hard to facilitate safe, successful, and enjoyable expeditions for all of our climbers. Our track record and past climber testimonials prove we are not only experts in our field, but we also love what we do!

More Climbs

Trekking day 1:  Lukla to Phakding – Distance: 8.30 km – Elev Gain/Loss: 394m/-639m

Expedition leader, Garrett Madison, provides the recap of today’s exciting flight to the trailhead mountain village of Lukla and the first day of trekking towards Everest Base Camp:

Hello!  This is Garrett calling in for the Mountain Hardwear Everest expedition and base camp trek.  Today is September 8th.  We were very lucky this morning to have an early flight at 6:00 AM out of Kathmandu and landed in Lukla.  But not after a fun, unplanned stop in the small village of Phaplu on the way.  The clouds rolled in and the Lukla airport was closed en route on our flight so the pilot diverted and landed at a small airstrip on the way.  Then when the clouds parted our pilot took off and landed us in Lukla.

 

From Lukla we made our way up the start of the Khumbu Valley.  It’s amazingly green here right now!  It’s been raining so much at the end of the monsoon season.  Everything is just incredibly green and vibrant.  A lot of growth here – the vegetation, the trees, the forest…  So, we’ve got it really good here!  We are at Phakding in the Sunrise lodge.  We just finished a good dinner and are heading off to bed.

 

Tomorrow we are going to head up to Namche.  Everybody’s feeling great.  It’s surprisingly quite here in the Khumbu.  We have the lodge all to ourselves and we didn’t see many people on the trail today because it’s not quite the trekking season which starts up in October.  We are feeling great and looking forward to a great day trekking up to Namche tomorrow.

(photo:  Lukla airport from the Madison Mountaineering Everest archives)


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow the team as they trek to Everest Base Camp and then make their attempt to summit the world’s highest mountain on:

Instagram:

– our Garmin inReach Mini powered real-time tracking map:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear Garrett Madison’s daily audio expedition updates

Team Arrived At Kathmandu!

Our Mount Everest climbing team and trekking team is in Kathmandu and scheduled to fly to Lukla tomorrow . They will  begin to  trek to base camp from there!  Today everyone is sightseeing around Kathmandu and excited to get up to the fresh mountain air in the Khumbu valley! Please check out the tracking links above for location of the team as they make their way up to Everest base camp.  Stay tuned for more dispatches…

Our unclimbed peak expedition team is now in base camp, preparing to make a recon up to the peak to scout the potential climbing route. Our peak, Tharke Khang, looks to have a ridge line beginning from the west that appears climbable, with steep snow and ice slopes. Our base camp is comfortable with a heated dining tent and great food!

Garrett

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peak expedition

We made our from Machermo up the valley to the village of Gokyo, situated next to a beautiful aqua marine lake. After lunch a few of us hiked up nearby Gokyo Ri, at just over 17,500’. We glimpsed our unclimbed peak in the distance, still a long way off…with major challenges between us and the start of the route, about 10 miles of glacier moraine and glacier/ icefall. This will not be an easy walk to say the least…accessing the base of the route is one thing, climbing the technical ridge is another.

Exploration in essence is venturing into the unknown… and that is exactly where we are headed.

Our team is good, everyone is acclimatizing well. The weather has been favorable and we hope this trend continues. We look forward to reaching our base camp the next day or two.

Garrett Madison

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Tham Serku peak

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Ama Dablam

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Trekking through the high country towards base camp

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First view of the unclimbed peak, Tharke Khang

Machermo

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At the top of Gokyo Ri today, 17,500′

Machermo

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The village of Gokyo, at 15,600′ high in the Himalayas where we are staying

Machermo

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At one of the Gokyo lakes today

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Our head Sherpa, Aang Phurba

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Stairway to heaven

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Old chorton (in Sherpa language) means stupa

 

Namche Bazaar! Despite the flights, the time in Kathmandu and the preparation, for me it always takes until Namche to start feel like we are moving forward. Yesterday we trekked from Phakding to Namche under a low cloud ceiling keeping it nice and cool. Arriving around 2 in the afternoon we all had time to wander the narrow streets and relax at the beautiful Panorama Lodge. This morning we woke up, ate breakfast and took a nice acclimatization hike up to the Everest View hotel. There we took in stunning views of Mt. Everest, Lhotse and the crown jewel of the Himalaya, Ama Dablam, our objective after our unclimbed peak. Now back at the Panorama, we eat lunch, rest and prepare to head off towards Khumjung in the morning. The team is healthy, strong and psyched to get moving!

Sid Pattison

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Namche is the main trading center and hub for the Khumbu region with many Nepalese officials, a police check, post and a bank

Namche

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Namche

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Team lunch with Ama Damblam in the background

Greetings from Lukla! We made it! After a couple of days of preparation in Kathmandu, today we boarded our Dornier aircraft and landed on Lukla. With most of our bags accounted for we are about to start off towards Phakding for the night. The crew is well rested, healthy and excited about finally being on our way to our unclimbed peak.

The Himalayan giants greeted us on arrival!

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Lukla

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Today guides Brent and Geoff returned to base camp with John and Anders after a successful first rotation. The weather at base camp has been cold with steady snowfall over the past two days. Our climbers up on the mountain are doing well and tucked in at Camp 1 and 2 on Mount Everest. They will follow the same schedule with two nights at Camp 1 and two nights at Camp 2 before returning back down to base camp.

Our Sherpa team reports that the route fixing team has moved up to Camp 4. We predict that the first Sherpa summits will be in the next one to two weeks. Beautiful photos below taken by our first rotation team!

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successful first rotation

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Today at base camp we woke up to sunshine and by early afternoon we had steady snowfall accumulating, Everest weather changes quickly! Our second wave of climbers pushed through the Khumbu icefall and made it to Camp 1 early this morning. We now have climbers acclimatizing at Camp 1 and Camp 2 on Mount Everest. Our third and final group will depart for Camp 1 early this morning. Everyone is doing well and in good spirits.

For daily photo updates follow us on Instagram @MadisonMtng.

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Everest weather

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Everest weather

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Everest weather

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Everest weather

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Everest weather

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