Tag Archive for: Lhotse

Beautiful view of Everest from base camp

The beautiful weather continues for the rest days in Everest base camp.  Everest guide Terray Sylvester calls in today’s expedition dispatch:

Hello!  This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest and Lhotse expedition.  It’s April 28th.

Today we had another rest day in base camp – really warm, beautiful weather.  The good weather just continues.  It looks like it will be another few days before we move up on our second rotation.  We’re just giving our Sherpa teams time to move oxygen and other supplies up to the South Col because the fixed lines have now been fixed all the way to Camp 4 (7900m/25,919ft on the South Col).

So, everything is well.  Tomorrow we’ll probably do a little more training in the ice pinnacles near base camp or maybe some ice climbing or maybe head out for a hike above base camp.

All’s good here, we’ll be in touch!

Warm, relaxing rest days at Everest base camp

Warm, relaxing rest days at Everest base camp


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.

Instagram:

Guide Rob Smith hiking with climber Roi Negri on the flanks of Pumori above base camp

With a rest day in Everest base camp, the team did some exploring of the base camp surroundings to stay active.  Everest guide Terray Sylvester calls in today’s expedition dispatch:

Hello!  This is Terray calling in for the 2022 Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest and Lhotse expedition.  It’s April 27th.

Today we had another rest day in base camp.  Some of us decided to take a hike up on the flanks of Pumori and another group headed off toward Kala Patthar down near Gorak Shep.  We had some snow flurries in the morning, but now it’s a pleasant, brezzy evening with, of course, the usual spectacular views.

We’ll probably be in base camp a couple more nights before heading up on our second rotation.  We’re just settling in to dinner, then followed up by a movie, and off to bed.

All is well here in base camp!  We’ll be in touch!

View of base camp from the Pumori slopes

View of Everest base camp from the Pumori slopes

Hiking above Everest base camp

Hiking above Everest base camp


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.

Instagram:

Climber Sara Safari relaxing at Everest base camp

Another beautiful rest day in Everest base camp!  Everest guide Terray Sylvester calls in today’s expedition dispatch:

Hello!  This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest and Lhotse expedition.  It’s April 26th.

Today we had another rest day in base camp.  We’ll be here resting for a few more days before we head up on our second rotation.  It was a beautiful sunny day with a little dusting of snow in the evening.  Our climber Sara Safari made an Iranian dish for all of us called “loobia polo“, a rice, beef, and green bean dish.

Now everyone is just settling in to watch “Baby Driver“.  So, it’s been a good day and we expect another good one tomorrow.

We’ll be in touch!

 

The 2022 Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest Base Camp

 


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.

Instagram:

Climber Dwight Crow and Garrett above acclimatizing above Camp 2

The first rotation is complete with our Everest team returning to base camp this afternoon!  Everest guide Terray Sylvester has this recap of the first rotation and the plan for the next few days:

Hello!  This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest and Lhotse expedition.  It’s April 24nd.

We just returned to base camp this afternoon from our first acclimatization rotation higher on the mountain.  We spent two nights in Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft) and two nights in Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) before coming back down to base (5310m/17,421ft).  We had beautiful weather throughout.  We were among one of the only teams in Camp 1 and Camp 2, so it was really nice having the mountain a little bit to ourselves.

We’re just settling back-in in base camp, had dinner of pork chops and pumpkin pie.  We’re gonna watch the latest James Bond film (“No Time to Die“).

Then we’ve got a few days of rest, showers, and relaxation in our future!  We’ll be in touch!

Climber Carter Beck crossing a ladder in the icefall

Climber Carter Beck crossing a ladder in the icefall

Climbing out of the Khumbu Icefall into the Western Cwm

Climbing out of the Khumbu Icefall into the Western Cwm

The team above Camp 2 on our active rest day

The team above Camp 2 on our active rest day

Descending through the Khumbu Icefall back to base camp

Descending through the Khumbu Icefall back to base camp


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.

Instagram:

Everest Camp 2

Today, our Everest team moved up from Camp 1 to Camp 2 in the Western Cwm.  Expedition leader Garrett Madison called in via sat phone with today’s expedition dispatch:

Hello!  This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest and Lhotse expedition 2022.  Today is April 22nd.

Today our team climbed from Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft) up to Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) on Mount Everest, our advanced base camp (ABC).  We got here in the afternoon, settled in, had lunch, just finished up dinner, and heading to bed now.  The weather’s been great.  Everyone’s doing really well and we’re looking forward to a good day tomorrow when we will do another acclimatization hike up above Camp 2 here.

We’re happy to be here!  There are not many other teams here – I think we’re the only team that’s up at Camp 2 at the moment.  Some of the other teams will be on the way soon.  But, it’s nice to be up here at 21,300ft (6492m) on Mount Everest!

We’ll check in soon.  Thanks!

(photo from the Madison Mountaineering archives)


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.

Instagram:

The Western Cwm

In the midst of the first rotation, our Everest team continued their acclimatization by hiking around Camp 1 in the Western Cwm.  Here’s guide Terray Sylvester with a recap of the day:

Hello, this is Terray calling in for the 2022 Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest expedition.  It’s April 21st.

Today we woke up in Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft), had a nice breakfast and coffee, and then went for an acclimatization walk about an hour, hour and a half, above camp just partway to Camp 2.  We had wonderful views of Everest, Lhotse, and the Nuptse ridge above us.  We came back down to Camp 1 and had lunch.  It’s really peaceful up here.  We’re just about the only party in Camp 1, which is really pleasant.

We had a nice dinner, watched the alpenglow fade on Everest, and now we are just getting to bed.

Looking forward to moving to Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) tomorrow!  All is well here.  We’ll be in touch.

(photo from the Madison Mountaineering archives)


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.

Instagram:

Everest 2021 Team

Definitely a challenging season on the world’s highest peak, but in the end Sagarmatha smiled and opened her arms, welcoming us to journey to her highest point. Our @madisonmtng team had magnificent summit days on May 11th and 23rd, with a total of 17 foreign climbers and 23 Nepal Sherpas reaching the top, of which 5 foreign climbers went on to summit Lhotse with 6 Sherpas. Among our team was Arthur Muir, now the oldest American to reach the top of the world and Kristin Harila who reached the top of Everest at sunrise and the top of Lhotse later that day at sunset.

Despite the pandemic, the harsh weather, and other challenges which forced many teams to cancel mid-late season, our team pulled together and remained focused on our mission, accomplishing what we came here to do, and everyone (foreign climbers & Sherpas) made it off the mountain safely.

We are very grateful to our clients who believed in and trusted us, our guide and Sherpa staff who went above and beyond, and the mountain for giving us the opportunity to test ourselves and admire the view from the top for a few fleeting moments. We look forward to returning to Everest in the spring of 2022, Namaste 🙏!

Everest 2021

Everest 2021

Lhotse summits by our three members – Garrett, Josh & Mingmar Sherpa climbed Mount Lhotse, next to Mount Everest. Its the 4th highest mountain in the world. They climbed today at 9:15 am. And , now  are on their way down the Lhotse Face with the other Mount Everest climbers  to Camp 2.

All our Sherpas and climbers team are healthy and coming down to camp 2 . Some are in Everest Basecamp, the others will descend tomorrow from Camp 2  .

Lhotse Summits

More summits from our team on Mount Everest!  Today Kenton, Ben, Mark, along with our Sherpas made the summit of Mount Everest and reported great conditions. They are now safe in  South Col also known as Camp 4. Their team will spend tonight there and will head down tomorrow to Camp 2.

Additionally , Our main team of climbers with Garrett, Conan, & Sid are heading up to Camp 4 today. They will climb up the steep ice of the Lhotse Face, over the Yellow Band and the Geneva Spur. Their plan is to rest tomorrow and go for the summit push on the evening of May 17th , if the weather is good.

Also, The Team of Ed & Ant are safely on their way down to Everest base camp.

Tonight our main team of climbers are heading up to Camp 2 on our “Mount Everest (summit) final rotation”, then we will assess the weather and monitor the progress of our Sherpas who are doing the rope fixing from the South Col high camp (Camp 4). Some of our climbers (advance team) have moved up to Camp 3 on the Lhotse Face in preparation for an early summit just after the rope fixing project is completed, as May 13th and May 14th look like perfect summit days. Our second team of climbers is in Camp 2 at the moment and preparing to climb to Camp 3 tomorrow.

The last few days have been very windy on Mount Everest, however, this upcoming weather window looks very reasonable for making summit attempts! Our main team of climbers is eyeing a later weather window sometime between May 17-19, as we are in no need to rush up the mountain because we have plenty of resources, time, and energy to choose what we think will be the best summit day with the least amount of climbers from other teams on the route. Last year we summitted Mount Everest on May 23rd and had the entire route to ourselves as no other teams decided to climb that day.

We hope we are fortunate enough to again have a good summit day where we can enjoy the solitude of the mountain and the spectacular views from the top! We look forward to climbing up the Lhotse Face and onward to the Camp 3, the Yellow Band, Geneva Spur, to the South Col high camp (Camp 4)! Then preparing for the final climb to the summit of Mount Everest!

Rope Fixing Update!

Our rope fixing team of Sherpas at the South Col high camp (Camp 4) made great progress yesterday fixing lines all the way up to the balcony. Today the winds were very strong on Mount Everest and they had to stay in high camp (Camp 4) because conditions were not suitable for climbing or rope fixing. Our plan is for them to continue fixing lines tomorrow as the weather looks much better and hopefully they will make it all the way to the summit of Mount Everest, thereby opening the route for all teams here on Mount Everest wishing to make a summit attempt!