Khumbu Archives

Ama Dablam 2020

Back at Base Camp

The Ama Dablam team is back at base camp after successfully completing their first acclimatization rotation. With the comforts of base camp, including Internet, everyone has been busy with the important work of updating their Instagram accounts with amazing photos – check out @garrettmadison1, @moealthani, @boldbravebeautifullife, @chase.merriam, @tedhesser, and @eliasaikaly.

Today, team member Ted Hesser provides a detailed recap of the rotation:

This is Ted Hesser calling in from the Ama Dablam team. We are back, safe and sound, at Base Camp after an eventful couple of days up at Camp 1 and Camp 2 on our first acclimitization rotation.

We hiked up a few days ago with heavy packs and burning lungs and got to a beautiful Camp 1 in time for sunset – beautiful clouds and golden rays and Himalayan peaks surrounding in all directions. We ran out of breath, just like I’m running out of breath right now trying to read this to you [laugh], but we woke up the next day and continued onwards to Camp 2 where we tested ourselves against the first technical cruxes of the route and I believe the actual crux of the route on The Yellow Tower – which is, about, an 80 foot, maybe a full rope pitch, of technical climbing at about 19,000 – 20,000 feet.

So very difficult on the body and on the lungs – very cold. But the whole team successfully made it up there. We were greeted with more beautiful views and a view of the rest of the route, which looks daunting, to say the least. A fair amount of elevation and technical terrian awaits us after Camp 2. But we turned around, came back to Camp 1, spent the night, rested up, and then came on back down to base camp today.

We’re all feeling pretty pooped, pretty tired. We are going to try to treat ourselves to alot of rest and food and hydration in the next few days and hope for good weather and a successful climb a few days from now!

Alright, ending the dispatch…

Oh(!) and Garrett says that we had the famous Chicken Sizzler dish tonight, which I almost forgot about [laugh]. But it was really good, it was on fire, the tent may have almost burned down [laugh], no I’m just joking – the tent’s fine. But dinner was great, there was hot showers when we got back down, which was really lovely, and warm tea and all the accoutrements of base camp!

Okay, over and out! Bye!

Elia receives his Chicken Sizzler dinner (🎥: @eliasaikaly)

Climbing between Ama Dablam C1 and C2 (📷: @tedhesser)

The beauty of climbing Ama Dablam (📷: @tedhesser)

Garrett Madison climbing around Ama Dablam Camp 1 and Camp 2 (📷: @tedhesser)

Jenn D and Garrett touching Ama Dablam Camp 2 (📷: @tedhesser)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear Garrett Madison’s daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions

– Instagram:

– our Garmin inReach Mini powered real-time tracking map:

https://madisonmountaineering.com/maps/ama-dablam-2020/

November 6, 2020/0 Comments/by Garrett

Ama Dablam 2020

First Rotation – Touched Camp 2

The Ama Dablam team touched their high point so far by climbing to Camp 2 (5980m) today before returning to Camp 1 for the night. Just before reaching Camp 2, they enjoyed some of the route’s best climbing by tackling the technical crux: Ama Dablam’s Yellow Tower. Tomorrow they will descend to base camp and rest up for their summit bid. Team member Moe Al Thani returns with today’s dispatch, again courtesy of his Instagram feed: @moealthani:

This is Moe Al Thani from Camp 1. We are back at Camp 1 after climbing to Camp 2. It was harder than I expected.

Climbing the Yellow Tower was whatever people say and even more. It’s really difficult, rock climbing at 6,000m with no oxygen. However, we made it! Now we’re back at Camp 1 and acclimatized better.

So tomorrow morning we’re going to head back down to base camp where we will enjoy internet, shower, food, and a good place to sleep. Now that’s Heaven to me! That’s it. I’m really tired, we had a very long day.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear Garrett Madison’s daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions

– Instagram:

– our Garmin inReach Mini powered real-time tracking map:

https://madisonmountaineering.com/maps/ama-dablam-2020/

November 5, 2020/0 Comments/by Garrett

Ama Dablam 2020

First Rotation – Camp 1

Today the Ama Dablam team moved up the mountain on their first acclimatization rotation. They will spend two nights at Camp 1 (5800m). Here is team member Moe Al Thani with today’s dispatch, courtesy of his Instagram feed: @moealthani:

Hey! This is Moe Al Thani calling you from Camp 1.

It was a very, very long day – over 7 hours and we gained altitude of over 1000m. It’s been a long day and we’re a bit tired. But we have high spirits and that’s what’s important. We’re going to get a bit of rest and we have a beautiful view of the mountain. We are going to spend the night here.

Tomorrow we are going to head to Camp 2 (5980m) and then back to Camp 1 for the night. I’ll keep you all posted with whatever happens and we’ll see you all soon.

Good night!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear Garrett Madison’s daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions

– Instagram:

– our Garmin inReach Mini powered real-time tracking map:

https://madisonmountaineering.com/maps/ama-dablam-2020/

November 4, 2020/0 Comments/by Garrett

Ama Dablam 2020

Acclimatization Continues

Tibetan Prayer flags fluttering here at Ama Dablam base camp

The acclimatization continued around base camp today. Tomorrow the team will head up on the first rotation. Team member Chase M. provides a recap of the day in this expedition dispatch from Ama Dablam base camp:

Hello there! This is Chase Merriam from the Madison Mountaineering Ama Dablam expedition. I’ll be giving you all a brief update on how the trip has been going so far.

So today, we had a short acclimatization hike with some fun scrambling up to about 5000m. And after that, we were organizing our equipment for tomorrow’s climb to Camp 1. The climb tomorrow should be pretty gradual in between 6 to 8 hours long. The whole team is feeling really good and are ready to see the upper mountain in person.

Thanks for listening!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear Garrett Madison’s daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions

– Instagram:

November 3, 2020/0 Comments/by Garrett

Ama Dablam 2020

Training at Ama Dablam base camp

Today, team member Jenn D. provides the expedition dispatch with an overview of the training at Ama Dablam base camp:

Hello, this is Jenn calling in for Madison Mountaineering’s Ama Dablam expedition team. We had a great day today!

After breakfast, we gave our crampons, ice axes, and mountaineering boots to the sherpas to carry up to camp as they departed today to set up Camp 1 and start working on the fixed lines. We spent the morning working on technical skills, getting comfortable with the fixed lines ourselves, the ascenders, and rappelling. We got back to base camp, we ate lunch, and then everybody rested a bit. I washed my hair and stoled the generator for an hour because, apparently, hair blowdryers take up a lot of power. The crew kind of self-entertained until dinner, where we got another meal fit for royalty. The heater in the tent ran out of fuel, so we were quickly brought back to reality.

We are living in tents, peeing in a dirt hole in the ground, and sleeping with water bottles to stay warm. The team is doing great, ready for one more rest day, which is Garrett‘s birthday, before we head to Camp 1.

Blessed to be out here living in a mountain wonderland.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear Garrett Madison’s daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions

– Instagram:

November 2, 2020/0 Comments/by Garrett

Ama Dablam 2020

Active Rest Day

On their first full day in base camp, the Ama Dablam team had a very active rest day. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison, brings us up to date with today’s dispatch:

Hello, this is Garrett calling in from Ama Dablam Base Camp!

We had our first full day here in Ama Dablam base camp, and we did our puja ceremony this morning. It went very well. We had a Lama come up from Pangboche and conduct the ceremony. After lunch, we went up on an acclimatization hike about 1,000 ft. above base camp. We had some great views of the surrounding peaks in the afternoon as the clouds rolled in, and then we came back down. We are just looking forward to dinner here tonight in camp.

Tomorrow we’re going to do a little bit of training and get ready to plan our first foray up the mountain. All well here at Ama Dablam base camp. It’s quiet, peaceful, beautiful, and we just feel so blessed, so lucky to have been able to come here to Nepal and go on this wonderful trek and climb.

Ama Dablam team after Puja

Jenn D and Garrett on last bridge before base camp (📷: @tedhesser)

Garrett Madison: The Man and the Mountain (📷: @tedhesser)

Madison Mountaineering Ama Dablam base camp

Moe on Ama (📷: @tedhesser)

Photographic art on Ama Dablam (📷: @tedhesser)

A view of Ama Dablam base camp

Ama Dablam and stupa

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear Garrett Madison’s daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions

– Instagram:

November 1, 2020/1 Comment/by Garrett

Ama Dablam 2020

Ama Dablam Base Camp (4581m)!

Today the Ama Dablam team made the hike of the final hill to base camp. Garrett reports “all good here!” Tomorrow they will start dialing in the camp including getting communications set up. Hopefully, there will be some Wi-Fi so more photos can be shared.

The day’s hike from Pangboche to base camp was just about 3 hours and gained 700m of elevation. Now it’s time to climb! After a couple of acclimatization rotations up the mountain, they are targeting November 10 as a possible summit day. Stay tuned!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear Garrett Madison’s daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions

– Instagram:

October 31, 2020/0 Comments/by Kurt

Ama Dablam 2020

The Trek to Base Camp – Pangboche (4000m)

Another beautiful day for trekking in the Khumbu where our Ama Dablam team has moved to just one day away from reaching base camp. From the village of Pangboche, expedition leader, Garrett Madison, provides today’s audio dispatch recapping the day:

Hello, this is Garrett calling in for the Ama Dablam expedition. We’re in Pangboche now at the base of Ama Dablam and we’re staying in the Namaste Lodge.

We arrived this afternoon after a wonderful trek from Deboche, up along the river to Pangboche. We had lunch here and then went for a walk this afternoon and visited the chief Lama in Pangboche up on the hillside above the village here and had a blessing with him. Tomorrow our plan is another blessing at the Pangboche Monastery and then we’ll head up to base camp! Great weather here and we’re enjoying our time here in the Khumbu.

It’s great to be reacquanted with some of our local friends and families who live here.

The 2020 Ama Dablam Team

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear Garrett Madison’s daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions

– Instagram:

October 30, 2020/0 Comments/by Garrett

Ama Dablam 2020

The Trek to Base Camp – Debuche (3730m)

Departing the Panorama Lodge in Namche with blessings

Leaving Namche Bazaar today, the Ama Dablam team was blessed by our friends at the Panorama Lodge and started making their way towards Tengboche. Before reaching the lunch stop at the village of Phunki Tenga, they said farewell to the Gokyo trekking team as the trail split and the Gokyo trekkers headed north into the Gokyo Valley and the village of Mong. After lunch on the riverside terrace overlooking the confluence of the Dudh Koshi and Imja Khola rivers, the Ama Dablam team crossed the big footbridge and made their way up to the hill to the Tengboche Monastery and the always awesome Cafe Tengboche for some well earned Khumbu apple pie at 3855m / 12,648 ft.!

From there it was just a bit further on, downhill, to the Rivendell Lodge in Deboche for the evening.

[ UPDATE: Apparently the cafes in Phunki Tenga and Tengboche were closed due to the coronavirus so no apple pie! 🙁 ]

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear Garrett Madison’s daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions

– Instagram:

October 29, 2020/0 Comments/by Kurt

Ama Dablam 2020

First views of Ama Dablam!

During today’s active rest day, the teams did an acclimatization hike up to the Everest View Hotel and caught their first views of Ama Dablam, Everest, and Lhotse. It was a beautiful, crystal clear blue sky day and the scenery was simply eye-popping.

Tomorrow the Ama Dablam team will head out of Namche and traverse the magnificent valley towards Tengboche. Along the way, they will say farewell to the Gokyo trek teams as they head north into the Gokyo Valley.