Tag Archive for: Camp 4

Madison Mountaineering 2022 K2 Summiteers List

Members of the Madison Mountaineering team on the summit of K2!

We are pleased to announce the following Madison Mountaineering team members successfully obtained the summit of K2 (8,611 m / 28,251 ft) on July 22, 2022 at approximately 3:00 AM PKT (local time):

# Name  Country
1 Mr. Terray Ellington Sylvester USA
2 Mr. Claudio “Cacho” Javier Beiza Argentina
3 Ms. Nelly Attar Lebanon
4 Ms. Krisli Melesk Estonia
5 Mr. Aang Phurba Sherpa Nepal
6 Mr. Siddhi Bahadur Tamang Nepal
7 Mr. Dorji Gyeljen Sherpa Nepal
8 Mr. Kamdorji Sherpa Nepal
9 Mr. Lhakpa Wongchu Sherpa Nepal
10 Mr. Mingdorji Sherpa Nepal
11 Mr. Lakpa Bhote Nepal
12 Mr. Rinji Sherpa Nepal
13 Mr. Temba Sherpa Nepal
14 Mr. Lakpa Sherpa Nepal
15 Mr. Inayat Ali Pakistan

All members are now back safely in camp 4 (7681m/25,200ft) and will continue their descent to camp 2 (6700m/21,980ft).

Sunrise on summit day from above the serac.

Sunrise on summit day from above the serac.

Climbers on the upper slope of K2, above the serac.

Climbers on the upper slope of K2, above the serac.

Members of the team at the top of the bottleneck.

Members of the team at the top of the bottleneck.

Climbers making their way down from the summit!

Climbers making their way down from the summit!

Looking down from the summit of K2!

Looking down from the summit of K2!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Summit Success for Our Rope Fixing Team!

The team has begun their summit push, after members of our rope fixing team have fixed ropes and successfully reached the summit of K2!

The Madison Mountaineering expedition team had its first members of the team reach the summit of K2! Members of our sherpa team fixed lines between camp 4 and the summit, reaching the summit themselves at 10:40 PM Pakistan time. Expedition lead, Garrett Madison, checks in with another dispatch from K2 base camp:

Update July 21st 10:40 PM Pakistan time: Our rope fixing team of Sherpa’s (Siddhi, Dorjee, Rinji) along with 2 Sherpas from the 8k team (Pasdawa & Chhring) have reached the summit of K2 (8611m/28,251ft). We are very proud of their hard work in setting the route and leading the way. Our climbers in camp 4 (7681m/25,200ft) have just begun their climb, hopefully reaching the top in about 8 hours, just after sunrise on the 22nd of July.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Summit Push on the Way!

The team has begun their summit push, after members of our rope fixing team have fixed ropes and successfully reached the summit of K2!

The Madison Mountaineering K2 expedition team is tucked into camp 4 for the night, getting some rest and preparing for their summit push which is set to start in just a few hours! Expedition lead, Garrett Madison, checks in with today’s dispatch from K2 base camp:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in from K2 base camp (4968m/16,300ft) – today is Thursday, July 21st.

Our climbing team is up in camp 4 (7681m/25,200ft) on K2. Meanwhile, our sherpa team has been fixing lines since yesterday – they’ve made great progress up from camp 4 through the shoulder, the bottleneck, the traverse, and they are continuing up this evening!

Our team is planning to depart camp 4 in a few hours, around 10 PM tonight assuming the rope fixing team is able to continue their progress. Fingers crossed the route conditions will be good for them! The weather should hold – it looks like it’s going to be a great day tomorrow, so we’re really excited to monitor their progress tonight and tomorrow as they climb. Hopefully they’ll be standing on the summit of K2 (8611m/28,251ft) in about 12 or 14 hours from now.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Greetings from Camp 3!

K2 earlier during this expedition. Photo pulled from Madison Mountaineering archive. (📸: @terray_s)

The Madison Mountaineering K2 expedition team has reached camp 3 and our sherpa team has fixed ropes all the way to camp 4! With more good weather on the way, the team will continue on to camp 4 tomorrow, while our sherpa team plans to continue fixing lines above camp 4. Expedition lead, Garrett Madison, checks in with today’s dispatch from K2 base camp:

Hello! This is Garrett checking in for the K2 expedition team – today is Wednesday, July 20th.

Today our team climbed from camp 2 (6700m/21,980ft) up the black pyramid to camp 3 (7250m/23,800ft) on K2! Our team’s doing great. Everyone’s in camp 3 having dinner, getting ready to go to sleep, and have a restful night.

Today our sherpa rope fixing team was able to fix lines up to camp 4 (7681m/25,200ft). They reported some semi-deep snow conditions, but not too bad. They all returned back to camp 3 after their work today. So, the ropes are into camp 4 – that’s good news! Tomorrow they’re going to go back to camp 4 and work on fixing above camp 4 on the shoulder and through the bottleneck. Hopefully they’ll make good progress! Our climbing team is planning to climb from 3 to 4 tomorrow as well.

All is well on K2! It was a little breezy today at 7,000 meters, but clear at the moment! Looks like it’ll be a nice day tomorrow for climbing.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Relishing on the Abruzzi Ridge

Evening light on the panorama of peaks and ice fields visible from camp 2 on the Abruzzi Ridge. (📸: @terray_s)

The Madison Mountaineering K2 expedition team is settled into camp 2 for the night and plans to move up to camp 3 tomorrow! There has been good weather so far and the team hopes for good route conditions as they make their way higher up the mountain. Here’s expedition lead, Garrett Madison, with today’s dispatch from K2 base camp:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering K2 expedition team – today is Tuesday, July 19th!

Beautiful day here in K2 base camp (4968m/16,300ft) and today the team climbed up to camp 2 (6700m/21,980ft). They reported good conditions, a lot of climbers up on the route – mostly below them because they got an early start! The sherpa team got up to camp 3 (7250m/23,800ft), and then fixed lines part way up to camp 4 today (7681m/25,200ft). So, things are going well up on the Abruzzi route! Hopefully the team will climb up to camp 3 tomorrow and the sherpas will be able to continue fixing up to camp 4.

All is well here. It looks like good weather in the forecast, so fingers crossed for good route conditions high up on K2!

Sirdar and guide, Aang Phurba Sherpa climbing on the Abruzzi Ridge. (📸: @terray_s)

Sirdar and guide, Aang Phurba Sherpa climbing on the Abruzzi Ridge. (📸: @terray_s)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Entire Team Safely Down to Camp 2

The climb up Mount Lhotse in Asia

With the entire team safely down to Camp 2, expedition leader Garrett Madison recaps the day and shares some exciting news about Lhotse in this dispatch sat phone call from Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) on Mount Everest:

Hello, this is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest and Lhotse expedition team.  Today is May 21th.

We are all back safely in Camp 2.

We’ve got some exciting news:  today, myself, Chase Merriam, Cameron Kenny, Josh Garrison, along with three (3) of our Nepal staff, sherpas Siddhi, Sange, and Lakpa climbed Mount Lhotse this morning.  We woke up about 2:00am and got up to the summit of Lhotse between 6:00am and 8:00am and just had a beautiful summit day – great conditions.  Now we’re all back safely to Camp 2.  Our entire team’s back safely in Camp 2.

Big congrats to our Everest climbers.  Everyone on our team summited Everest; clients, guides, and sherpas who began the summit push here departing from Camp 2.  100% success!  A total of thirty (30) members, not counting our small private team which summitted Everest on May 15th with nine (9) members.  So, another very successful season!  We’ve just got to get down to base camp safely tomorrow and then celebrations are in order.

All’s well here at Camp 2 on Everest and everyone’s in good spirits and doing well.

We’ll check in soon!

(photo from the Madison Mountaineering archives)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Top of the World – Summit Success!!

Woohoo!  Our Everest and Lhotse expedition team all summited Mount Everest today!  Expedition leader, Garrett Madison, calls in from Mount Everest’s South Col high camp with the happy details:

Hello, this is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest and Lhotse expedition team.  Today is May 20th.

Today we summitted Mount Everest!  The whole team:  all nine (9) clients, four (4) guides, and our whole team of Sherpas summitted Mount Everest today around 7:00 to 8:00am.

We had some great views from up there, good route conditions, we had the whole route to ourselves, hardly another climber up there, and we made our way back down to high camp.  The whole team made it safely back to high camp by mid-afternoon.

We’ve been resting up and we’re getting ready to go for our Lhotse attempt.  A few of us are going to set off tonight around midnight and head off towards Mount Lhotse.  The rest of the team will sleep here at the South Col Camp 4 and pack up tomorrow morning, and head down to Camp 2.  So, we’ll all be heading down to Camp 2 eventually tomorrow afternoon.

Great job today to our whole team!  100% success!  We all made it up to the summit of Everest and down safe.  I’m very proud of this team.  I couldn’t be happier.  They earned it.

We’re keeping our fingers crossed for Lhotse tonight.  Hopefuly it works out for those of us going for the double header – Everest/Lhotse combination.

So, checking in for Madison Mountaineering.  We’ll check in tomorrow.

(photo from the Madison Mountaineering archives)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Summit Push – Preparing to Head Up!

Camp 4

The Everest and Lhotse expedition team is staged to head up from Camp 4 (7900m/25,919ft) to the summit very soon now!  Expedition leader, Garrett Madison, checks in via Garmin inReach Mini with this brief update:

Good morning from C4! Having brkfast now, inst oatmeal then dehy eggs, yum! But hardly any wind!..everyone doing well at the moment:) we’re the only team here! Resting up to probably head up tonight around 1:00am.

(photo from the Madison Mountaineering archives)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Summit Push – Camp 4

The route up the Lhotse Face above Camp 3, over the Yellow Band and left over the Geneva Spur (📸: @terray_s)

The team is safely in place on Mount Everest’s South Col at Camp 4.  It’s now just over 24 hours before they will start out for the summit – weather permitting.  Everest guide Terray Sylvester sends today’s expedition dispatch via Garmin inReach Mini:

Hello from Camp 4 (7900m/25,919ft) on the South Col of Mount Everest!

Today we had beautiful weather as we moved up from Camp 3 (7230m/23,720ft). There were no other teams on the route. So we moved efficiently without traffic jams and made great time. Along the way we had spectacular views back down the Western Cwm and of some of Everest’s giant neighbors, including Cho Oyu.

We plan to rest here tomorrow before heading for the summit.

We’ll be in touch!

(photo from the Madison Mountaineering archives, 📸: @terray_s)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Heading home from K2 base camp

Remainder of our K2 team preparing to depart base camp

We’re packing up base camp and our expedition team is heading home after an incredibly successful and safe K2 climb. Here’s the latest from Garrett Madison:

Hello, this is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering K2 expedition team. Today is August 3rd.

Today the remainder of our members flew out of K2 base camp by helicopter and it’s just me left with our Pakistani and Nepal Sherpa team here in base camp. We’re going to pack up and head out the day after tomorrow with our mule train back to Skardu.

Nice weather today but we decided not to go for Broad Peak due to the snow fall and high winds that had made the route seemingly very challenging and a very low probability of success. But we’re very happy with our K2 summit success and everyone getting down safely.

Everyone is heading home now. We had a great expedition! We’ll be packing up here and heading down the

in the next few days, back towards Skardu.

All’s well here in Pakistan. Thanks!

If climbing K2 or Broad Peak is in your future, please contact our office, we would love to have you climb with us!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear Garrett Madison’s daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

– our Garmin inReach Mini powered real-time tracking map:

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