Tag Archive for: Camp 4

Top of the World!

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

We are thrilled to announce that the 2023 Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest expedition team has successfully reached the summit of the tallest mountain on Earth, and safely returned to their tents at Camp 4! The team all reached the top between 10:30 AM and 12:00 PM NPT (local time) and enjoyed a magnificent summit day complete with sunshine, little wind, great route conditions, and the route (mostly) to themselves.

Congratulations to the team and and a heartfelt thank you goes out to our rockstar Sherpa team and support staff! This incredible feat would not be possible without them.

Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with today’s dispatch as he tries to find the words for a truly special day on Mount Everest:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in from the South Col (7900m/25,919ft) for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft) and Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) expedition team. We had a great summit today on Mount Everest! Best summit day ever that I can remember.

We started about 2:00 AM after a brief snowstorm here on the South Col, made our way up the triangular face to the balcony, up to the south summit, and up to the top of the world – summit of Mount Everest, about 9:30 – 10:00 AM. It was a glorious day! The best conditions and best route conditions that I can remember, perfect weather. It was warm, hardly any wind, hardly any other climbers on the mountain. We spent about two hours total, some of us, after summit just basking in the views, warmth and enjoying being at the top of Mount Everest. So, we had eight clients, four guides and 15 Nepal Sherpas get to the top today, including Aang Phurba Sherpa. And now, we’re all back safe in Camp 4 (7900m/25,919ft)!

Our plan is to go to bed, we just had some dinner. Some of us are going to wake up in a few hours, and head off to climb Lhotse – a neighboring peak of Mount Everest, the fourth highest mountain in the world.

So, the perfect summit day! (I) can’t believe how lucky we were, it was so nice up there. So lucky in so many ways! It was a glorious day and glad we’re all back safe.

Tomorrow some of us will go to Lhotse, the rest of us down to Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft), and the following day down to base camp (5364m/17,598ft). All is well here on Everest! Check in soon.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Summit Push – It’s Time!

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

The 2023 Madison Mountaineering Everest expedition team is primed and ready to make their summit push on the world’s highest peak! In just a few short hours, the team will emerge from their tents, dawn their packs, and leave the South Col in the direction of Mount Everest’s summit ridge which will take them to the summit. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from the South Col:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft) and Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) expedition team. Today is May 23rd and we are up here at Camp 4 (7900m/25,919ft) on the South Col. We got up here yesterday afternoon and had a good nights sleep, a restful day recovering and preparing for our summit attempt tonight. So the weather looks great, probably the best day of the season coming up, fingers crossed.

The team is ready and our plan is to wake up in a few hours time and head out around midnight to make our summit attempt on Mount Everest! So we are doing our last minute preparations here, finishing our dinner, filling our water bottles, we’ll sleep for 2 hours before we get up and go.

Wish us luck! We’ll check in tomorrow.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Summit Push – Camp 4

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

The 2023 Madison Mountaineering team is safely settled into their tents at Camp 4 (C4) on the South Col, between the summits of both Everest and Lhotse. This being their high camp, they plan to take a rest day tomorrow so that they are ready to go when it becomes time to make their summit push! Weather permitting, the team aims to begin their summit push tomorrow night. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with today’s dispatch from C4:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft) and Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) expedition. Today is May 22nd, and we are up at Camp 4 (7900m/25,919ft) on Mount Everest, also known as the South Col here at 26,000 feet or just under 8,000 meters.

We’re doing great! We had a good climb up from Camp 3 (7230m/23,720ft) today – it was a long day. We started at about 6:30 and got up here at about 3:30 in the afternoon. We’ve had dinner and filled up some hot water bottles, changed our oxygen cylinders, and we are getting ready for bed now. Our plan is to have a restful night, rest day tomorrow, and then leave tomorrow night for the summit. So, aiming for May 24th! The weather looks great, snowing right now – it’s been snowing this afternoon, but the wind is supposed to be calm on May 24th and 25th. We’re looking forward to a nice day up here tomorrow to recover, enjoy some good views, and get all prepped and ready for our summit climb tomorrow night!

All is well here at the South Col on Mount Everest!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Summit Push – Camp 3

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Onward and upward! Having rested up yesterday, the team got back to work today and climbed part way up the Lhotse Face to Camp 3 (C3) where they are settled into their tents for the night. With good weather, they’ll continue on up the mountain tomorrow to their high camp at 7,900m / 25,919ft. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from C3:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest (8848m/29,032ft) and Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) expedition. Today is May 21st, and today we climbed from Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) up to Camp 3 (7230m/23,720ft). We left a little after 6:00 AM and had great weather today, sunny and clear all the way up to Camp 3. Then moved into our tents, had some lunch, relaxed… We had a little bit of snow in the afternoon, some clouds, but nice weather overall, hardly any wind.

The team’s doing great and we are really excited to climb up to Camp 4 (7900m/25,919ft) tomorrow! Thank you for following along and we will check in soon.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Nuptse summit attempt ahead!

The view up the Western Cwm towards Camp 2, the Lhotse Face and the summit of Everest. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

With our “first wave” of climbers recuperating and enjoying the comforts of Namche Bazaar, our “second wave” of climbers is currently up at Camp 2 with plans to descend to Everest Base Camp tomorrow. They’ve had a very successful second rotation as they prepare for their summit push! A few members of our team will continue higher into the Himalaya as they make their summit attempt on Nuptse! Expedition guide, Terray Sylvester, checks in with today’s dispatch from Namche Bazaar:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft), Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) and Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft) expedition – today is May 7th.

Today our “second wave” of Everest and Lhotse climbers were in Camp 2! They climbed part way up the Lhotse face toward Camp 3 (7230m/23,720ft), and then returned back down to Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) at the head of the Western Cwm. Tomorrow, they plan to descend back to base camp (5364m/17,598ft), and that will wrap up their acclimatization rotation. They’ve spent two nights at Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft) and three nights at Camp 2 as of tomorrow.

Meanwhile, our “first wave” of Everest–Lhotse climbers are down here in Namche Bazaar (3440m/11,290ft). We flew down here yesterday morning from base camp. It was a beautiful helicopter flight, and since then, we’ve been enjoying hot showers, eating good food and sucking up all the extra oxygen down here, which feels great! So, we’re just resting and biding our time, recuperating for our summit push which is still a little ways off. Right now we’re waiting for high winds to ease on the upper mountain so that our Sherpa team can carry oxygen and other supplies up as high as the South Col (7900m/25,919ft), and then we’ll start looking for a summit window.

Our Nuptse climbers moved up to high camp at the foot of the route this afternoon. They’re currently resting in high camp and preparing for a summit attempt that will start late tonight. Most of the route is fixed, and if the weather permits, then our climbers and our rope-fixing team will complete the route to the summit tomorrow morning.

So, lots of things going on here in Nepal, but all is well and we will be in touch tomorrow!

Camp 1. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Camp 1. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climbing out of Camp 1. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climbing out of Camp 1. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Erwin Visser crossing a ladder in the Khumbu Icefall. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Climber, Erwin Visser crossing a ladder in the Khumbu Icefall. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Our "first wave" of climbers descending through the icefall back to EBC. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

Our “first wave” of climbers descending through the icefall back to EBC. (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Busy at Camp 2!

Photo pulled from Madison Mountaineering archive (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering “second wave” of climbers is busy at Camp 2 acclimatizing, and for some, looking ahead to an ascent on Nuptse! The team has had great weather today, a restful afternoon and evening, and is in high spirits as they look forward to the days ahead. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison, checks in with today’s dispatch from Camp 2:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest (8848m/29,032ft) expedition. Today is May 5th and I’m with the “second wave” with guide, Cacho Beiza and climbers, Eva, Krisli, Danah and Rich, Mark and Steve!

We had a great day starting out from Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft)where we spent the last two nights, and some of our team that was just up at Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) finishing their rotation is coming down. They were heading to base camp (5364m/17,598ft) today for a good rest!

We climbed up to Camp 2, settled in, and had a nice afternoon and a restful evening, good dinner and just said goodbye to some of our team that were heading up to do a carry to the South Col this evening. They’re planning to climb all through the night and deposit a load of oxygen at Camp 4 (7900m/25,919ft), back tomorrow.

For Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft), our rope fixing team is hard at work right now! Today they were able to fix up the ice arête on the Nuptse route, under the rock band, which is good news! They’ll have another good day tomorrow.

All is well up here at Camp 2 on Mount Everest! We’ll check in soon.

 

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Madison Mountaineering 2022 K2 Summiteers List

Members of the Madison Mountaineering team on the summit of K2!

We are pleased to announce the following Madison Mountaineering team members successfully obtained the summit of K2 (8,611 m / 28,251 ft) on July 22, 2022 at approximately 3:00 AM PKT (local time):

# Name  Country
1 Mr. Terray Ellington Sylvester USA
2 Mr. Claudio “Cacho” Javier Beiza Argentina
3 Ms. Nelly Attar Lebanon
4 Ms. Krisli Melesk Estonia
5 Mr. Aang Phurba Sherpa Nepal
6 Mr. Siddhi Bahadur Tamang Nepal
7 Mr. Dorji Gyeljen Sherpa Nepal
8 Mr. Kamdorji Sherpa Nepal
9 Mr. Lhakpa Wongchu Sherpa Nepal
10 Mr. Mingdorji Sherpa Nepal
11 Mr. Lakpa Bhote Nepal
12 Mr. Rinji Sherpa Nepal
13 Mr. Temba Sherpa Nepal
14 Mr. Lakpa Sherpa Nepal
15 Mr. Inayat Ali Pakistan

All members are now back safely in camp 4 (7681m/25,200ft) and will continue their descent to camp 2 (6700m/21,980ft).

Sunrise on summit day from above the serac.

Sunrise on summit day from above the serac.

Climbers on the upper slope of K2, above the serac.

Climbers on the upper slope of K2, above the serac.

Members of the team at the top of the bottleneck.

Members of the team at the top of the bottleneck.

Climbers making their way down from the summit!

Climbers making their way down from the summit!

Looking down from the summit of K2!

Looking down from the summit of K2!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Summit Success for Our Rope Fixing Team!

The team has begun their summit push, after members of our rope fixing team have fixed ropes and successfully reached the summit of K2!

The Madison Mountaineering expedition team had its first members of the team reach the summit of K2! Members of our sherpa team fixed lines between camp 4 and the summit, reaching the summit themselves at 10:40 PM Pakistan time. Expedition lead, Garrett Madison, checks in with another dispatch from K2 base camp:

Update July 21st 10:40 PM Pakistan time: Our rope fixing team of Sherpa’s (Siddhi, Dorjee, Rinji) along with 2 Sherpas from the 8k team (Pasdawa & Chhring) have reached the summit of K2 (8611m/28,251ft). We are very proud of their hard work in setting the route and leading the way. Our climbers in camp 4 (7681m/25,200ft) have just begun their climb, hopefully reaching the top in about 8 hours, just after sunrise on the 22nd of July.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Summit Push on the Way!

The team has begun their summit push, after members of our rope fixing team have fixed ropes and successfully reached the summit of K2!

The Madison Mountaineering K2 expedition team is tucked into camp 4 for the night, getting some rest and preparing for their summit push which is set to start in just a few hours! Expedition lead, Garrett Madison, checks in with today’s dispatch from K2 base camp:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in from K2 base camp (4968m/16,300ft) – today is Thursday, July 21st.

Our climbing team is up in camp 4 (7681m/25,200ft) on K2. Meanwhile, our sherpa team has been fixing lines since yesterday – they’ve made great progress up from camp 4 through the shoulder, the bottleneck, the traverse, and they are continuing up this evening!

Our team is planning to depart camp 4 in a few hours, around 10 PM tonight assuming the rope fixing team is able to continue their progress. Fingers crossed the route conditions will be good for them! The weather should hold – it looks like it’s going to be a great day tomorrow, so we’re really excited to monitor their progress tonight and tomorrow as they climb. Hopefully they’ll be standing on the summit of K2 (8611m/28,251ft) in about 12 or 14 hours from now.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Greetings from Camp 3!

K2 earlier during this expedition. Photo pulled from Madison Mountaineering archive. (📸: @terray_s)

The Madison Mountaineering K2 expedition team has reached camp 3 and our sherpa team has fixed ropes all the way to camp 4! With more good weather on the way, the team will continue on to camp 4 tomorrow, while our sherpa team plans to continue fixing lines above camp 4. Expedition lead, Garrett Madison, checks in with today’s dispatch from K2 base camp:

Hello! This is Garrett checking in for the K2 expedition team – today is Wednesday, July 20th.

Today our team climbed from camp 2 (6700m/21,980ft) up the black pyramid to camp 3 (7250m/23,800ft) on K2! Our team’s doing great. Everyone’s in camp 3 having dinner, getting ready to go to sleep, and have a restful night.

Today our sherpa rope fixing team was able to fix lines up to camp 4 (7681m/25,200ft). They reported some semi-deep snow conditions, but not too bad. They all returned back to camp 3 after their work today. So, the ropes are into camp 4 – that’s good news! Tomorrow they’re going to go back to camp 4 and work on fixing above camp 4 on the shoulder and through the bottleneck. Hopefully they’ll make good progress! Our climbing team is planning to climb from 3 to 4 tomorrow as well.

All is well on K2! It was a little breezy today at 7,000 meters, but clear at the moment! Looks like it’ll be a nice day tomorrow for climbing.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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