Andes Archives

Aconcagua 2022.12

Preparing for the Carry to Camp 1

Alpenglow on the upper mountain. Photo: Terray Sylvester

The team brought in the New Year with an acclimatization hike around Base Camp, as they prepare to make their first carry up to Camp 1 tomorrow! Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with todays dispatch from Plaza de Mulas:

Hello and happy New Year from Aconcagua Base Camp (4367m/14,327ft)! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Aconcagua (6961m/22,837ft) expedition – it’s January 1st.

We had a great day today! The weather was really nice – clear skies all day with great views of fresh snow on the upper mountain. We spent the morning acclimatizing by walking above base camp, beyond the historic hotel here near Plaza de Mulas. And then, in the afternoon we got some showers and started sorting gear for our first carry to Camp 1 (5060m/16,600ft), which will happen tomorrow.

So we just finished dinner! It was great – shepherds pie and then nice, chocolate mousse dessert. We’re getting ready for bed and tomorrow the plan is to carry up to Camp 1.

So, all is well here in Argentina and we’ll be in touch tomorrow!

Snow in the mountains above base camp!

Our climber, TJ, acclimatizing above base camp. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Lunch in base camp.

Lunch is served!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions. Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

January 1, 2023/0 Comments/by Garrett

Aconcagua 2022.12

New Years Eve on Aconcagua!

Our team in the Horcones River Valley, en route to base camp. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Happy New Years Eve from the tallest mountain in South America, Aconcagua! Today, the team moved up from Confluencia Camp to their Base Camp, where they plan to take a rest day tomorrow. The team hiked through snowy conditions today, but looks forward to sunshine in the forecast in the days coming! Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with todays dispatch from Plaza de Mulas:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Aconcagua (6961m/22,837ft) expedition – it’s New Year Eve, December 31st!

Today we made good time from Confluencia Camp (3436m/11,273ft) to Base Camp at Plaza de Mulas (4367m/14,327ft)! There’s a little storm system moving through, so we had some light snow on the way. But, it was actually really nice hiking conditions with no wind and no dust in the Horcones Valley.

So, now we’re at Plaza de Mulas! We’re just about to sit down for dinner. All is well here and we’re looking forward to a rest day tomorrow. The weather forecast is sunny, so it should be a really nice day here at about 4,200 meters on Aconcagua!

We’ll be in touch tomorrow.

Gaining elevation en route to Plaza de Mulas. Photo: Terray Sylvester

New Year’s Eve dinner in base camp: salmon and roasted potatoes.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions. Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

December 31, 2022/0 Comments/by Garrett

Aconcagua 2022.12

Acclimatizing in the Horcones Valley

Our team acclimatizing above Confluencia Camp. Photo: Terray Sylvester

The team spent today acclimatizing around Confluencia Camp as they prepare to continue their trek into base camp tomorrow. Some light snow made for magical conditions during their acclimatization efforts, spent moving around the valley and looking up at the towering peaks above them. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with todays dispatch from the Horcones Valley:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Aconcagua (6961m/22,837ft) expedition – it’s December 30th.

Today we acclimatized by hiking from our camp here at Confluencia (3436m/11,273ft) to Plaza Francia (4228m/13,871ft) at the base of the dramatic South Face of Aconcagua! It was a beautiful hike, we had some light snow which just made for really scenic and atmospheric conditions on the peaks above us. We took a break at Plaza Francia and checked out the hanging glaciers on the South Face, and then returned back to our camp where we had a late lunch of bruschetta with fresh veggies and prosciutto, plus some great-fresh melon! So now we’re just resting before dinner.

All is well and we’re looking forward to moving to base camp tomorrow!

Checking out the view of Aconcagua’s famous South Face! Photo: Terray Sylvester

Hiking toward the South Face. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Down the Lower Horcones Valley. Photo: Terray Sylvester

The team returning to Confluencia Camp from Plaza Francia. Photo: Terray Sylvester

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions. Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

December 30, 2022/0 Comments/by Garrett

Aconcagua 2022.12

Trek to Base Camp has Begun!

Approaching Confluencia Camp. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Today, our Aconcagua team hit the trail and has begun their journey towards the summit of South America’s tallest peak! Fueled by several good meals throughout the day, the team has arrived in Confluencia Camp where they’ll spend the remainder of the day. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with todays dispatch:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Aconcagua (6961m/22,837ft) expedition, it’s December 29th.

Today we had a nice breakfast in Mendoza (746m/2,449ft) and drove up to our trailhead in Horcones, then we had a nice three hour walk here to Confluencia Camp (3436m/11,273ft). It’s a beautiful day, there’s fresh snow high on the mountains, so that’s a scenic change! We got here to Confluencia and had a nice lunch – pizza, and fresh juice, and some nice apple bread and other items. Now we’re just resting until dinner!

So, tomorrow we’ll take an acclimatization hike up toward a nice viewpoint for the south face of Aconcagua.

All is well here, really pleasant, and we’ll be in touch!

Our climber, TJ, at the Horcones Valley Trailhead with guide, Laucha. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Our team in the Horcones Valley. Photo: Terray Sylvester

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions. Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

December 29, 2022/0 Comments/by Garrett

Aconcagua 2022.12

Aconcagua Season is Underway!

Our climber, TJ, enjoying dinner in Mendoza with our guides, Terray and Laucha.

The Madison Mountaineering Aconcagua season is underway in Argentina! Our team has arrived in Mendoza and is primed to kickoff the expedition tomorrow after a gear check, orientation and welcome dinner today. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with the expeditions first dispatch from Mendoza:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Aconcagua (6961m/22,837ft) expedition – it’s Wednesday, December 28th. This is the first climb of our season; we’ll have a couple of more expeditions up Aconcagua after this one.

But, yeah today was the first day of this climb. Our climber, TJ, arrived here in Mendoza (746m/2,449ft) this afternoon, then we had a gear check and orientation at our hotel, and we just wrapped up dinner at one of Mendoza’s many sidewalk restaurants. It’s just a beautiful evening here in Mendoza – perfect temperature, people are out listening to music and having dinner. It’s really pleasant!

Tomorrow the plan is to wake up, not too early, and then drive up to the Andes – drive into the mountains. We’ll hike up to our camp at Confluencia (3436m/11,273ft). So, tomorrow will be our first night in this famous mountain range. I’m really looking forward to it! I think we’re going to have a great trip as we make our way to the highest peak outside of Asia, and the highest peak in the Americas.

So, all is well and we’ll be in touch tomorrow.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions. Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

December 29, 2022/0 Comments/by Garrett

Ecuador 2022.07.25

Cotopaxi Summit Success!!

Today our Ecuador Volcanoes team capped off the expedition with a fantastic summit climb of Ecuador’s second highest mountain, Cotopaxi (5897m/19,347ft)! Lead guide Estalin Suárez calls in with the happy news:

Hello, this is Estalin calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Ecuador Volcanoes expedition. I’m very, very happy with the news that today, July 31st, we got the summit of Cotopaxi volcano, which is 19,400 feet in elevation, with Mr. Kevin Gary!

Yesterday we started at midnight, and it took us about eight hours to reach the summit and then a little bit more than three hours down. We had an amazing, amazing view of all the volcanoes around. The weather was incredible – almost no wind, very clear, a little bit cold (but just that, it was okay). The condition of the snow was perfect. So, we had a great, great experience on the mountain. Mr. Kevin is very happy that we were able to reach the summit of Cotopaxi! With this, we finish our expedition.

Again, I’m very, very happy to announce the news of our summit success on Cotopaxi and we’re ready for the next expedition!

Okay, bye.

Alpine start on Cotopaxi

Dawn on Cotopaxi

Beautiful climbing conditions on Cotopaxi

Climbing Cotopaxi on a bluebird day

Heading up Cotopaxi

Amazing views from high on Cotopaxi

Nearing the Cotopaxi summit

Climber Kevin G. celebrates reaching the summit of Cotopaxi

Happy climbers on the summit of Cotopaxi!

Cotopaxi summit with perfect conditions

Cotopaxi from the air

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions. Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

August 1, 2022/0 Comments/by Kurt

Ecuador 2022.07.25

Summits on Iliniza Norte (5126m/16,813ft)

Today our Ecuador team topped out on the 16,813 ft. (5126m) summit of Illiniza Norte as they continue their acclimatization. Here’s lead guide Estalin Suárez with a recap of the day:

Hello to everybody! This is Estalin calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Ecuador Volcanoes expedition. Today we got the summit of Iliniza Norte, which is 16,800 feet.

We got a great, great day – beautiful weather, very clear. We started very early in the morning. We could see the sun rise along the avenue of volcanoes in Ecuador. Very, very happy we got finally good weather on this expedition. Now we are at the lodge just resting after our good lunch as well and yeah!

Tomorrow we are going to just have a rest day and then get ready for the big one!

Okay, bye!!

Climber Kevin G. ready to head out

Sunrise climbing on Illiniza Norte

Sunrise on the Avenue of Volcanoes, Ecuador

Morning alpenglow

Sunning views of Ecuador’s volcanoes

Climbing on Illiniza Norte

Summit success on Illiniza Norte

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions. Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

July 29, 2022/0 Comments/by Kurt

Ecuador 2022.07.25

Corazon Cumbre!

Today, the team climbed another eroded and extinct volcano, “El Corazon,” located about 40 km southwest of Quito. The name Corazon means “heart” in Spanish and is said to refer to the two gullies on the north west slopes which, when seen from the distance, appear to join together in the shape of a heart. While the weather has been challenging thus far, the team has kept high spirits and looks forward to the days ahead! Lead guide, Estalin Suárez, check in with today’s dispatch:

Hello! This is Estalin calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Ecuador volcanoes expedition – today is July 27th.

We, Mr. Kevin Gary and I, climbed El Corazon volcano which is 15,700 feet. We didn’t have much luck with the weather – it was cloudy, a little bit rainy, and even some snow, which is very very weird for this mountain! We actually got a lot of snow on the way up, but it was okay! It was challenging and we had to push a little bit harder, but finally we got the summit! It was a nice climb – a little bit different with the snow. We’re still motivated. Hopefully the weather improves the next few days.

Now we’re at the lodge just resting and waiting to have dinner! Hopefully tomorrows weather will be better. Bye!

Ascending the snow covered slopes of Corazon.

Rope team navigating the challenging weather on Corazon.

Climber, Kevin Gary approaching the summit!

Cumbre!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions. Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

July 27, 2022/0 Comments/by Mike

Ecuador 2022.07.25

Ecuador Volcanoes Expedition is Underway!

Acclimatization hike in Ecuador! Dark, but beautiful skies up above!

Our Ecuador volcanoes expedition has begun! Today, the team started the acclimatization process, reaching the summit of Pasochoa at 13,779 feet. Lead guide, Estalin Suárez, check in with today’s dispatch:

Hello! This is Estalin calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Ecuador Volcanoes expedition – today is July 26th.

We just started the acclimatization process with the summit of Pasochoa volcano (4200m/13,779ft) which is 13,800 feet. So, we had a nice hike, even though the weather wasn’t that good – a little bit cloudy and we got some rain at the summit. But, it was good, it was good.

Now we are in a nice lodge just resting and getting ready for tomorrow. So, that is it for today!

Guide, Estalin and climber, Kevin on the summit of Pasochoa!

Climber, Kevin on Pasochoa.

Among the clouds during todays acclimatization hike in Ecuador.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions. Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

July 26, 2022/0 Comments/by Mike

Ojos del Salado 2020.12

Summit — Top of Ojos del Salado!

The team reached the summit of Ojos del Salado this morning, the highest volcano in the world (#1 in the Volcanic Seven Summits), the second-highest mountain in South America (#2 in the Second Seven Summits), and Chile’s country high point (6893m/22,614ft)! Congratulations team! Great work.

Here’s expedition leader, Garrett Madison with the happy news direct from the summit via satellite phone:

Hello! This is Garrett Madison calling in for the Ojos del Salado expedition team. Today’s December 16th and we have summitted Ojos del Salado, about 22,600 ft. and change or, I think, 6,893 meters.

Team members that made it up here today would be Jenn, Ted, Ryan, Jean Marie – our local guide, myself, and Chase! We had a great climb, nice weather – it was cold starting out and cold during most of the day, but sunny, not many clouds, not much wind. Could ask for a better day up here. Great views all around.

We’re up here at the top of the mountain and Chase and I are the last ones up here, about to head down – back towards Acacama Camp [base camp] where we are going to sleep tonight.

It was a beautiful climb. Glad that we came here to Chile. A wonderful experience all around. We’re looking forward to checking-in soon. Thanks!