Tag Archive for: acclimatization

Acclimatizing in Camp 1

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Manaslu expedition team had a productive day in Camp 1! We started our day by taking an acclimatization hike further up the route, allowing our climbers to get familiar with the climbing still to come, all while building the red blood cells that help us to climb higher and higher on the mountain. Tomorrow, our team will descend back down to our base camp where we’ll rest and get ready for the next rotation! Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from Camp 1 on Manaslu:

Today we rested in Camp 1 (5700m/18,700ft). In the morning we went for an acclimatization foray into the icefall that separates Camp 1 from Camp 2 (6400m/21,000ft), then returned to our tents for a lunch of cheese and bacon quesadillas. With unexpectedly heavy snow in the forecast, we plan to descend to base camp (4859m/15,944ft) tomorrow to rest for our next rotation.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Acclimatization rotation underway on Manaslu!

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Manaslu expedition team has started their first rotation on the mountain, where they’ll continue their acclimatization efforts and familiarize themselves with the route along the way! While climbing up from base camp to Camp 1, the team had excellent weather and climbing conditions, making for another wonderful day in the Himalaya. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from Camp 1 on Manaslu:

Hello from Camp 1 (5700m/18,700ft)! Today we woke to a dusting of fresh snow on the cliffs above base camp (4859m/15,944ft) and the upper mountain. It felt a bit like fall had arrived. After breakfast, we climbed to Camp 1 in almost perfect conditions: no precipitation but a light overcast to moderate the heat. We’ve had dinner now, and we’re settling in for the first night of our acclimatization rotation. We’ll be in touch tomorrow.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Puja Day

Our climbers at our pre-climb Puja today. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Manaslu expedition team held their Puja ceremony today, which is a crucial piece to many of our expeditions in the Himalayan and Karakoram ranges. The Puja is a sacred ceremony where we make offerings and ask the mountain for safe passage before beginning any climbing. It was another great day in the mountains, the team is in good spirits, and ready to start their first rotation on Manaslu, the world’s eighth-highest peak! Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from the Himalayas:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Manaslu (8156m/26,759ft) expedition – today is September 10th.

Today we had our pre-climb Puja! A Lama came up from Sama village and we had a nice ceremony asking the mountain for safe passage while we climb. Then, in the afternoon after lunch, we prepared for our first rotation on the mountain. Tomorrow, if all goes as planned we will move up to Camp 1 (5700m/18,700ft) with the goal of spending about four nights on the mountain before returning to base camp (4859m/15,944ft). That will be a crucial step as we acclimatize for our eventual summit push.

Right now, it’s beautiful in base camp! We’ve got a clear view down the valley over the cloud-tops looking toward Chamar (7165m/23,507ft) and [Chachung?] peaks in the distance, it’s just really nice here. So, all is well and we will be in touch from higher on the mountain!

Members of our Sherpa team during the Puja. From left, Tenzi, Temba and Ming Dorchi. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Members of our Sherpa team during the Puja. From left, Tenzi, Temba and Ming Dorchi. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Temba stringing prayer flags over our base camp. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Temba stringing prayer flags over our base camp. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Dropback Period

Arrival at Everest Base Camp

As the “dropback” period begins, Garrett Madison checks in from Everest base camp with today’s update:

Hello!  This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest and Lhotse expedition.  Today is May 9 and our team is resting on the dropback.  Most all of our members are down in Namche resting for a few days at the Panorama Lodge.

Climbers Kenton Cool, Jon Gupta, and Becks Ferry are up in Camp III on their summit rotation.  The weather’s good right now and the winds are suposed to stay calm through May 13.  After that the winds are going to rise for a bit.

But we’re doing well, we’re resting, and we’re setting our sights on a summit push sometime in the second half of May.

All’s well here at Everest base camp and in Nepal and we’ll check in soon.  Thanks!

If climbing Mount Everest is in your future, please contact our office, we would love to have you climb with us!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear Garrett Madison’s daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

– our Garmin inReach Mini powered real-time tracking map:

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2nd Rotation Complete

On the way to Camp III

A great second rotation is complete and the team is back at base camp.  Garrett phoned in with today’s expedition dispatch:

Hello, this is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest/Lhotse expedition.  Today is May 7th and we arrived in Everest base camp after a great rotation up at Camp II for three nights and touching Camp III.

We all came down today through the Western Cwm and the Khumbu Icefall and made it back to base camp this afternoon in time for lunch and some hot showers.  Tomorrow most of our team is going to head down to Namche for a rest before we come back and set our sights on the summit.

We learned today that the rope-fixing team made the summit.  So the lines are in to the top – that’s great news – and the weather looks good.  So hopefully, our climbers Kenton Cool with Ardavan and Jon Gupta with Becks will be able to make a summit attempt here in the next few days.  They’re up at Camp II right now.

We are just happy to be here!  Great weather on Mount Everest.  All is well and we’ll check in soon.

Our 2 Kristins on the Lhotse Face

Our 2 Kristins on the Lhotse Face

The Lhotse Face covered in snow as seen from Camp II

The Lhotse Face covered in snow as seen from Camp II

Our Camp I on the way to Camp II with fresh snow

Our Camp I on the way to Camp II with fresh snow

Camp III on the Lhotse Face with lots of fresh snow

Camp III on the Lhotse Face with lots of fresh snow

Climbing under the bergschrund at the base of the Lhotse Face

Climbing under the bergschrund at the base of the Lhotse Face

If climbing Mount Everest is in your future, please contact our office, we would love to have you climb with us!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear Garrett Madison’s daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

– our Garmin inReach Mini powered real-time tracking map:

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Camp III Touched!

The Western Cwm

After touching Camp III, the Everest team is back in Camp II and preparing to head down tomorrow to base camp.  Expedition leader, Garrett Madison, has all the details:

Hello, this is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest and Lhotse expedition.  Today is May 6th and today we climbed up to Camp III on the Lhotse Face.  We had a great day, beautiful weather here on Mount Everest.  A lot of fresh snow on the Lhotse Face made for really good climbing, good conditions.  We made it back in time for a late lunch in Camp II and just finished our dinner here tonight.

We’re gonna head down to base camp tomorrow.  Everyone’s doing okay.  All’s well here with our team on Mount Everest.  And our British climbing friends, Kenton Cool and Jon Gupta, along with their climbers, Ardavan and Rebecca, are planning to head up soon, they’re here at Camp II, and they’re going to make their summit bid, probably, in a few day’s time.  So, it was nice to see them today and wish them good luck.

We’re looking forward to getting down to base camp and resting and relaxing and having a hot shower and enjoying base camp life very soon.

All’s well here on Everest.  We’ll check in soon.  Thanks!

If climbing Mount Everest is in your future, please contact our office, we would love to have you climb with us!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear Garrett Madison’s daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

– our Garmin inReach Mini powered real-time tracking map:

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Team at Camp II and Getting Ready to Touch Camp III

Everest Camp 2

The entire Everest/Lhotse team is now safely up at Camp II on their second acclimatization rotation and is getting ready to climb up the Lhotse Face in the early morning 750m or so to touch Camp III before descending back to Camp II for the night.  Everest guide, Rob Smith, provides today’s expedition dispatch:

Hi, this is Rob from Everest Camp II.  The climbing team had a rest day today at camp, which is nice.  It snowed quite a bit.  We’ve been digging out tents and swapping a few (tent) fly sheets and we’re having a very early night tonight because we are getting up at 4:00 AM tomorrow to get onto the Lhotse Face and touch Camp III.

So big day tomorrow, tune in again to hear how it goes.  Okay, bye for now!

If climbing Mount Everest is in your future, please contact our office, we would love to have you climb with us!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear Garrett Madison’s daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

– our Garmin inReach Mini powered real-time tracking map:

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Second Rotation Gets Underway

Views from base camp

With some of the team now up at Camp I, the rest of the group is ready to head up from base camp tonight.  Here are the details from expedition leader, Garrett Madison:

Hello!  This is Garrett calling in for the Everest and Lhotse team dispatch.  Today’s May 3rd.

We had a restful day in base camp and are preparing to head up tonight on our second rotation.  Half of our team went up yesterday to Camp I and spent the night.  They’ve been resting there today.  The rest of us will head up tonight and join them hopefully early tomorrow morning and we’ll all make our way together up to Camp II for three nights in Camp II.

Our entire team of climbers, guides, and Sherpas, and Nepal staff are doing well here at Everest base camp and on the mountain and we’re looking forward to heading up and continuing our expedition.  The weather looks pretty good – a little snow in the forecast but not much wind as far as we can see.  So, that bodes well perhaps for an earlier summit than normal, maybe a mid-May summit if we’re lucky – fingers crossed.

All’s well and we’ll check in soon!

Eating breakfast outside this morning, a nice day!

Eating breakfast outside this morning, a nice day!

If climbing Mount Everest is in your future, please contact our office, we would love to have you climb with us!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear Garrett Madison’s daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

– our Garmin inReach Mini powered real-time tracking map:

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Ready for Second Rotation

Our Everest team is ready for the second rotation.  From Mount Everest base camp, expedition leader Garrett Madison has the plan for what’s next:

Hello, this is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest and Lhotse team dispatch.  Today is May 2nd and tonight we are embarking on second rotation.

Our first wave of climbers is heading up tonight, climbing early tomorrow morning of May 3rd through the Icefall to Camp I and will sleep there the night of May 3rd.  Our second wave will depart base camp early on May 4th and climb up to Camp II and join the members who will be sleeping at Camp I.  So we’ll all arrive Camp II together on May 4th for our second rotation and spend about three nights there.

Everone’s doing great here on Everest.  We’re healthy, we’re enjoying the nice weather, and looking forward to getting up high again and hopefully some good views.

We’ll check in soon, thanks!

If climbing Mount Everest is in your future, please contact our office, we would love to have you climb with us!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear Garrett Madison’s daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

– our Garmin inReach Mini powered real-time tracking map:

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Prepping for Second Rotation

Aang Purba hanging around in the ice.

With our Everest Express team members arriving, the full 2021 Everest team is now in base camp and making their preparations for the Second Rotation.  Everest guide, Terray Sylvester has all the facts:

Hello, this is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering 2021 Mount Everest expedition.  It’s Saturday, May 1st.  Today we had a beautiful morning in camp.  Our Express climbers have arrived, so we spent part of the morning refreshing skills, climbing fixed lines, and repelling out on the ice pyramids just below base camp so we did with the main team a few weeks ago.  Then in the afternoon, we had a light snowfall.

There’s been a convective storm pattern each day, so we’ve had beautiful, sunny mornings then light snow and increasing cloudness each evening.  Right now it’s misty.  We just watched the documentary “Mountain” which was great – some beautiful footage there, including of the Everest area.

Tomorrow, we’ll begin our second acclimatization rotation.  Some of our climbers, including our Express team, will head up to Camp I for a night, and then the following night, the entire team will be up at Camp II.  We’ll spend two nights at Camp II.  We’ll head up on touch Camp III, but not sleep there, descend back down to Camp II for a third night, and then head on back down to base camp – subject to weather and route conditions, of course.

So, all is well here and we will be in touch!

 

Ice training just below base camp

If climbing Mount Everest is in your future, please contact our office, we would love to have you climb with us!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear Garrett Madison’s daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

– our Garmin inReach Mini powered real-time tracking map:

 

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