Big boulder blocking the Karakoram Highway!

Our 2022 K2 expedition has started!!  The team arrived in Islamabad on June 18th and drove by motor coach to the staging city of Skardu enjoying a small adventure along the way.  Here’s expedition leader, Garrett Madison, with the expedition’s initial dispatch:

Hello, this is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering K2 2022 expedition team.  Today is June 19th and we arrived in Skardu today after a drive from Islamabad.  The weather’s been bad the last few days, so all the flights from Islamabad to Skardu have been canceled.  So, we took buses and drove yesterday on the Karakoram Highway and reached Skardu around midnight.

There was a big boulder that came down over the road at one point and we actually had to walk across by foot and have new vehicles met us on the other side to transport us to Skardu.  It was an adventure to say the least!  A fun way to start the trip.

We’re just waiting on clearance here in Skardu, then we’ll head off tomorrow, hopefully by jeep, drive all the way to Jhola Camp (3151m/10,338ft), spend the night, and then start trekking the next day towards K2 base camp.

Everyone’s doing well, we’re excited to be here and looking forward to the journey ahead.

K2 team traveled by bus from Islamabad to Skardu

K2 team traveled by bus from Islamabad to Skardu

Climber Nelly and Ang Purba enjoy reaching Diamer, Pakastan

Climber Nelly and Ang Purba enjoy reaching Diamer, Pakistan


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

2022 Mount Kenya team - Jonathan, Wolf, Art, and guides

Congratulations to our 2022 Mount Kenya team – Wolf R., Art M., and Jonathan E.!  On June 14th, the team had success in reaching the high peak of Batian (5199m/17,057ft) on Africa’s second-highest mountain after 100% of them reached Mount Kenya’s Point Lenana (4985m/16,355 ft) the previous day.  It was an incredible adventure and a solid rock climb!

Their smiles say it all–Job well done!  We are excited to let some of the team members tell it in their own words…

From his Facebook post, here’s climber Jonathan E.:

On the summit of Batian peak. The highest peak of Mt Kenya standing 17,054ft. We climbed via the north face standard route. It was a huge challenge of 20+ pitches. While most of the climbing is on mid-5th class rock, there is one 5.9 pitch and several at a 5.8 standard. Overall it was 16 hours tent to tent summit day. The locals tell me that it was the first successful climb on the North Face since 2020!

And Art M. says:

Trying to climb this mountain from the north is something that is clearly underappreciated by most people. The big news? Wolf and Jonathan made it to the top on a clear but chilly and very windy day. We believe they and their guide John were the first people to Summit on the northside since 2020.  It is a testament to their strength, expertise, and stamina and the excellent support services that Madison Mountaineering pulled together that allowed them to achieve such a stunning achievement in an exhausting 16-hour push.

Even I, with the help of David my patient guide, managed to get myself up 1,500’ of stunning rock climbing, even though it was only halfway in terms of time to the top!  Still, about 15 pitches and a dozen or so rappels – are you kidding me?  This old guy never in his wildest dreams expected to experience anything like it.  It was thrilling, challenging, exhausting, frightening and exhilarating, all in one.

Climbers Jonathan and Wolf on the summit of Mount Kenya!

Climbers Jonathan and Wolf on the summit of Mount Kenya!

100% of the team on Mount Kenya's third highest peak, Point Lenana (4985m/16,355 ft)

100% of the team on Mount Kenya’s third-highest peak, Point Lenana (4985m/16,355 ft)

At the Mount Kenya trailhead

At the Mount Kenya trailhead

Trekking to the base of Mount Kenya

Trekking to the base of Mount Kenya

Mount Kenya team

Mount Kenya team

Climber Wolf's new hairdo 😀

Climber Wolf’s new hairdo 😀

Beautiful lakeside camping on Mount Kenya

Beautiful lakeside camping on Mount Kenya

Climbing the north face of Mount Kenya's Batian peak

Climbing the north face of Mount Kenya’s Batian peak

One of the 20+ pitches of Mount Kenya's Batian peak summit day

One of the 20+ pitches of Mount Kenya’s Batian peak summit day

Climbing the north face of Mount Kenya's Batian peak

Climbing the north face of Mount Kenya’s Batian peak

Climb on! Mount Kenya

Climb on! Mount Kenya

On the summit of Mount Everest - May 20, 2022

All of the Madison Mountaineering Everest and Lhotse team is safely back to base camp.  Expedition leader Garrett Madison calls in with today’s expedition dispatch:

Hello, this is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest and Lhotse expedition.  Today is Sunday, the 22nd of May.

We got down from Camp 2 today.   Our whole team made it down to base camp and we’re all back safe in Everest Base Camp.

We’re looking forward to heading home after a very successful expedition.  We had thirty (30) climbers reach the summit of Everest, that’s nine (9) clients, four (4) guides, seventeen (17) Nepal sherpa.  Another four (4) of us reached the summit of Lhotse, along with three (3) sherpa, seven (7) total.  And, of course, our private team summited Everest on May 15th with nine (9) members.  So it’s been a very successful here.

We’re just so fortunate and thankful that we had great weather and great route conditions and everyone had a good expirence and made it home safely.  So, we’re looking forward to packing up here tomorrow and making our way down the Khumbu Valley and back towards home.

We’ll check in soon!


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

We are pleased to announce that the Lhotse climbing team of the 2022 Madison Mountaineering Everest/Lhotse expedition successfully reached the summit of Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) on May 21, 2022, between approximately 6:00 AM and 8:00 AM NPT (local time).

Lhotse is the fourth highest mountain in the world at 8,516m (27,940 ft), after Mount Everest, K2, and Kangchenjunga.

# Name Country
1 Mr. Robert “Josh” Garrison 🇺🇸 United States
2 Mr. Cameron Kenny 🇺🇸 United States
3 Mr. Chase Merriam 🇺🇸 United States
4 Mr. Garrett Madison 🇺🇸 United States
5 Mr. Siddi Bhadur Tamang 🇳🇵 Nepal
6 Mr. Sange Sherpa 🇳🇵 Nepal
7 Mr. Lakpa Sherpa 🇳🇵 Nepal
The climb up Mount Lhotse in Asia

With the entire team safely down to Camp 2, expedition leader Garrett Madison recaps the day and shares some exciting news about Lhotse in this dispatch sat phone call from Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) on Mount Everest:

Hello, this is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest and Lhotse expedition team.  Today is May 21th.

We are all back safely in Camp 2.

We’ve got some exciting news:  today, myself, Chase Merriam, Cameron Kenny, Josh Garrison, along with three (3) of our Nepal staff, sherpas Siddhi, Sange, and Lakpa climbed Mount Lhotse this morning.  We woke up about 2:00am and got up to the summit of Lhotse between 6:00am and 8:00am and just had a beautiful summit day – great conditions.  Now we’re all back safely to Camp 2.  Our entire team’s back safely in Camp 2.

Big congrats to our Everest climbers.  Everyone on our team summited Everest; clients, guides, and sherpas who began the summit push here departing from Camp 2.  100% success!  A total of thirty (30) members, not counting our small private team which summitted Everest on May 15th with nine (9) members.  So, another very successful season!  We’ve just got to get down to base camp safely tomorrow and then celebrations are in order.

All’s well here at Camp 2 on Everest and everyone’s in good spirits and doing well.

We’ll check in soon!

(photo from the Madison Mountaineering archives)


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

We are pleased to announce that the main team of the 2022 Madison Mountaineering Everest expedition successfully reached the summit of Mount Everest (8848m/29,029ft) on May 20, 2022, between approximately 7:00 AM and 8:00 AM NPT (local time).

Congratulations to the entire team and a heartfelt thank you to our climbing sherpa and all of the expedition support staff.  You are the ones who make it happen and it can’t be done without you.

# Name Country
1 Mr. Todd Ammerman 🇺🇸 United States
2 Mr. Carter Beck 🇺🇸 United States
3 Mr. Dwight Crow 🇺🇸 United States
4 Mr. Robert “Josh” Garrison 🇺🇸 United States
5 Ms. Saskia Jacobson 🇺🇸 United States
6 Mr. Cameron Kenny 🇺🇸 United States
7 Mr. Chase Merriam 🇺🇸 United States
8 Mr. Roi Negri 🇮🇱 Israel
9 Ms. Sara Safari 🇺🇸 United States
10 Mr. Garrett Madison 🇺🇸 United States
11 Mr. Robert Smith 🇮🇪 Ireland
12 Mr. Terray Sylvester 🇺🇸 United States
13 Mr. Javier “Cacho” Beiza 🇦🇷 Argentina
14 Mr. Aang Phurba Sherpa 🇳🇵 Nepal
15 Mr. Siddi Bhadur Tamang 🇳🇵 Nepal
16 Mr. Kam Dorchi Sherpa 🇳🇵 Nepal
17 Mr. Ming Dorchi Sherpa 🇳🇵 Nepal
18 Mr. Rinji Sherpa 🇳🇵 Nepal
19 Mr. Shere Thapa Magar 🇳🇵 Nepal
20 Mr. Pasang Bhote 🇳🇵 Nepal
21 Mr. Temba Sherpa 🇳🇵 Nepal
22 Mr. Chiring Bhote 🇳🇵 Nepal
23 Mr. Sange Sherpa 🇳🇵 Nepal
24 Mr. Lakpa Sherpa 🇳🇵 Nepal
25 Mr. Pemba Sherpa 🇳🇵 Nepal
26 Mr. Kami Sherpa 🇳🇵 Nepal
27 Mr. Mingma Sherpa 🇳🇵 Nepal
28 Mr. Dhana Tamang 🇳🇵 Nepal
29 Mr. Dawa Sherpa 🇳🇵 Nepal
30 Mr. Chheder Sherpa 🇳🇵 Nepal

Woohoo!  Our Everest and Lhotse expedition team all summited Mount Everest today!  Expedition leader, Garrett Madison, calls in from Mount Everest’s South Col high camp with the happy details:

Hello, this is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest and Lhotse expedition team.  Today is May 20th.

Today we summitted Mount Everest!  The whole team:  all nine (9) clients, four (4) guides, and our whole team of Sherpas summitted Mount Everest today around 7:00 to 8:00am.

We had some great views from up there, good route conditions, we had the whole route to ourselves, hardly another climber up there, and we made our way back down to high camp.  The whole team made it safely back to high camp by mid-afternoon.

We’ve been resting up and we’re getting ready to go for our Lhotse attempt.  A few of us are going to set off tonight around midnight and head off towards Mount Lhotse.  The rest of the team will sleep here at the South Col Camp 4 and pack up tomorrow morning, and head down to Camp 2.  So, we’ll all be heading down to Camp 2 eventually tomorrow afternoon.

Great job today to our whole team!  100% success!  We all made it up to the summit of Everest and down safe.  I’m very proud of this team.  I couldn’t be happier.  They earned it.

We’re keeping our fingers crossed for Lhotse tonight.  Hopefuly it works out for those of us going for the double header – Everest/Lhotse combination.

So, checking in for Madison Mountaineering.  We’ll check in tomorrow.

(photo from the Madison Mountaineering archives)


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

Camp 4

The Everest and Lhotse expedition team is staged to head up from Camp 4 (7900m/25,919ft) to the summit very soon now!  Expedition leader, Garrett Madison, checks in via Garmin inReach Mini with this brief update:

Good morning from C4! Having brkfast now, inst oatmeal then dehy eggs, yum! But hardly any wind!..everyone doing well at the moment:) we’re the only team here! Resting up to probably head up tonight around 1:00am.

(photo from the Madison Mountaineering archives)


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

The route up the Lhotse Face above Camp 3, over the Yellow Band and left over the Geneva Spur (📸: @terray_s)

The team is safely in place on Mount Everest’s South Col at Camp 4.  It’s now just over 24 hours before they will start out for the summit – weather permitting.  Everest guide Terray Sylvester sends today’s expedition dispatch via Garmin inReach Mini:

Hello from Camp 4 (7900m/25,919ft) on the South Col of Mount Everest!

Today we had beautiful weather as we moved up from Camp 3 (7230m/23,720ft). There were no other teams on the route. So we moved efficiently without traffic jams and made great time. Along the way we had spectacular views back down the Western Cwm and of some of Everest’s giant neighbors, including Cho Oyu.

We plan to rest here tomorrow before heading for the summit.

We’ll be in touch!

(photo from the Madison Mountaineering archives, 📸: @terray_s)


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

Tents at Camp 3 and the Western Cwm below it (📸: @terray_s)

The Everest and Lhotse expedition team has climbed from Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) up the Lhotse Face to Camp 3 (7230m/23,720ft) on their summit push.  Expedition leader, Garrett Madison, checks in via Garmin inReach Mini with this brief update:

Greetings from C3. Everyone made it up here today and doing great! Planning to climb to C4 tmrw. A little windy but all good.


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram: