The team together in the Langtang Valley!

The Madison Mountaineering Cho Oyu expedition team is staying busy while we await our Tibet visas! In the beautiful Langtang Valley, the team is taking advantage of higher elevations and the processing time needed at the Chinese Embassy to build some acclimatization, camaraderie amongst the team, and take in the views! Our thoughts are with those impacted by the civil unrest in Nepal this week. We look forward to the time when we will head back to Kathmandu, collect our Tibet visas, and start the journey to Cho Oyu! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from Langtang village:

Hello! This is Garrett checking in for the Madison Mountaineering Cho Oyu (8,188m/26,864ft) team.

Tonight, we are in the Langtang Valley staying in Langtang village (3430m/11,253ft). We got out of Kathmandu (1400m/4,600ft) a couple of days ago during the civil unrest and drove up here to be in the mountains, to trek and gain some acclimatization, get some good mountain views and fresh air! It’s been great being up here, not many trekkers, beautiful scenery, very lush, green. We’re hoping to spend a few days more up here trekking higher, hopefully getting some great views and acclimatization, all building for our Cho Oyu program.

We’re going to head back to Kathmandu when things calm down, hopefully obtain our Tibet visas, and be able to head into China in maybe a weeks time!

So, all is well here. Everyone’s doing very well. We’re just fortunate that all of our team, our Nepali friends, our colleagues, everyone’s doing okay and got through the difficult time earlier this week with the protests and riots.

So, everyone’s doing okay here in Nepal. We’ll check in soon!

Crossing a suspension bridge during the trek!

Crossing a suspension bridge during the trek!

Denisa and Aang Phurba Sherpa!

Denisa and Aang Phurba Sherpa!

Clouds filling the valley during todays trek

Clouds filling the valley during todays trek

The valley is green and lush, with a constant roar of the rushing river.

The valley is green and lush, with a constant roar of the rushing river.

On the trail!

On the trail!

The team together outside one of the guesthouses that fill the valley.

The team together outside one of the guesthouses that fill the valley.


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

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Cho Oyu

Here we go! The Madison Mountaineering Cho Oyu expedition team has gathered together in Kathmandu. While we wait for our visas, the team is headed out of the big city and into the Langtang Valley for some trekking and acclimatization. Energy is high amongst the team and we’re psyched to get the expedition underway! In just a few days time we’ll be on the road to Cho Oyu. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from the Langtang Valley:

Hello! This is Garrett checking in for the Madison Mountaineering Cho Oyu (8,188m/26,864ft) expedition, 2025.

We have all arrived in Nepal. Today, we drove out of the city of Kathmandu (1400m/4,600ft) to the Langtang Valley! We’re going to spend about a week trekking in the Langtang Valley up to some higher peaks, acclimatizing, getting some exercise, and hopefully enjoying some fresh mountain air, and nice views.

Everyone’s doing well here. It’s been a great start to the trip, although we’re very sorry for the protests in Kathmandu which turned violent yesterday and thinking of the people who lost their lives.

But, happy to be here in Nepal and on our way to Langtang. After which, hopefully we’ll have our Chinese visas and we can drive into Tibet to start the Cho Oyu expedition!

All is well here and we’ll check in soon.


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

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Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

100% summit success on the highest peak in Washington! The Madison Mountaineering Mount Rainier team left Ingraham Flats under clear, starry skies as they started up the climbing route. The team navigated technical terrain and were treated with an epic sunrise as they neared the summit, ultimately topping out and enjoying the moment and views with all of Washington below them. Congratulations to the entire team on safely and successfully reaching the summit of Mount Rainier! Team leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this final dispatch for the 2025 Mount Rainier team:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Mount Rainier (4390m/14,410ft) climb with Ed Viesturs – today is August 22nd.

Yesterday morning, we topped out in perfect weather on Washington’s highest peak! The entire team summited, 100% success rate. Conditions were excellent! We left the Ingraham Flats (3383m/11,100ft) at about 1:00 am and summited not long after sunrise. We had beautiful, starry-skies and had a beautiful sunrise just as we were approaching the crater rim. Then, we descended all the way back down to Paradise (1646m/5,400ft) yesterday evening, and our climbers are all headed home!

So, all in all it was another great trip on Mount Rainier.

Guide Terray Sylvester on the summit with Ed Viesturs and our climber, Jared!

Guide Terray Sylvester on the summit with Ed Viesturs and our climber, Jared!

Guide Peter Horsman on the summit with climbers, Lewis and Sarah!

Guide Peter Horsman on the summit with climbers, Lewis and Sarah!


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

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Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Mount Rainier team practiced glacier travel skills in preparation of the summit push ahead! Walking in crampons, traveling as a rope team, self arrest and more are essential skills needed for traveling on any glacier, and ones that the team will certainly put to use when they start their climb soon. After finishing up class, the team packed up camp and headed for Ingraham Flats – the next stop on their way to the summit. The team has had beautiful weather so far, and more of the same forecasted for the days ahead! Team leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from Mount Rainier:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Mount Rainier (4390m/14,410ft) climb with Ed Viesturs – today is August 20.

Today, we did a little bit of snow school at Camp Muir (3105m/10,188ft) after we woke up. We practiced crampon technique, rope team travel, self arrest and other essentials for glacier mountaineering. Then, we hiked on up to Ingraham Flats (3383m/11,100ft).

The whole day the weather’s been really nice! Last night, there was no wind at Camp Muir. Today, we have clear skies above a broken cloud layer. And yeah, really beautiful views!

So right now, we’re just relaxing here at the flats. We’ll have dinner in a bit, and then we’ll wake up early in the morning for our alpine start for our summit push. It looks like good weather in the forecast tomorrow – low winds and ideal temperatures.

So, all is well here on Mount Rainier! We’ll be in touch tomorrow.


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

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Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Mount Rainier team started their climb by moving up from Paradise to Camp Muir with near perfect climbing conditions, making good time and with excellent views along the way! After settling into their camp for the night, the team enjoyed a nice dinner together while taking in the views of the volcanoes that sit to the south of Mount Rainier, amongst other peaks. The team is off to a great start and looks forward to continuing up the route tomorrow! Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from Camp Muir:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Mount Rainier (4390m/14,410ft) climb with Ed Viesturs – today is August 19.

Today, we climbed from Paradise (1646m/5,400ft) up to Camp Muir (3105m/10,188ft). We had pretty much perfect climbing conditions! It was really nice, it wasn’t too hot, we had some cloud cover to keep us cool on the way up the Muir snowfield. We arrived in Camp Muir around 2:30 and since then, we’ve been relaxing, enjoying dinner, and enjoying the sunset views out over the Tatoosh Range toward Goat Rocks and Mount Adams (3743m/12,281ft), Mount Hood (3429m/11,249ft), Mount St. Helens (2549m/8,363ft) – all the beautiful sights from the south side of Mount Rainier!

Tomorrow, we’re looking forward to moving up to Ingraham Flats (3383m/11,100ft)!

So, all is well. We’ll be in touch tomorrow!


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

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Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering K2 expedition team has made the difficult decision to end our climb and head home due to exceptionally high objective hazard. At the same time, we are proud to have completed another successful mountain cleanup. Over the course of our season in the Karakoram, five volunteers and 20 members of our staff removed a total of 605.6 lbs (274.7 kg) of waste from just below K2 Base Camp on the Godwin Austen Glacier, to the upper end of Advance Base Camp at the base of the Abruzzi Spur. This effort was spearheaded by our K2 climber, Ryan Mitchell, and implemented through our Madison Mountaineering Foundation, a 501(c)3 organization.

Our successful cleanup was a highlight during an otherwise challenging Karakoram season. Throughout the K2 climbing period from June into August, unusually warm and dry weather created challenging and hazardous conditions on the mountain. Since our first K2 expedition in 2014, we’ve typically found the route blanketed in snow from Advanced Base Camp upward. This year, even after extending our expedition by nearly two weeks in hopes of new snowfall, the route from Advanced Base Camp to Camp 1 remained bare, with loose rock underfoot. Without snow to hold it in place, rockfall became a constant threat throughout the season. In the interest of safety, we’ve chosen to step away for now—and return to the mountains when conditions are right. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from the Karakoram:

Hello from Chuspang Camp, below Laila Peak (6096m/20,000ft)! This is a wrap-up dispatch for the 2025 Madison Mountaineering Karakoram expeditions.

Today we trekked here from K2 Base Camp (4968m/16,300ft). It was a spectacular day — clear skies gave us excellent views of the surrounding high peaks as we hiked down the Baltoro Glacier through Concordia (4570m/14,993ft), then over the Gondogoro Pass (5585m/18,323ft) and down to our grassy, alpine tent site.

On August 9, we aborted our summit push on K2 (8611m/28,251ft) and descended back to base camp from Camp 1 (6065m/19,900ft). It was a hard decision. We turned around due to the high rockfall hazard on the Abruzzi Spur from Camp 2 (6700m/21,980ft) down.

This season has been unusually warm and dry in the Karakoram. Normally the route from Advance Base Camp (5303m/17,400ft) to Camp 1 is almost entirely snow-covered. This season, most of it was steep, loose rock, exposed by lack of snow, and by ice retreating from the east side of the Abruzzi. The route on up to Camp 2 was also in relatively bad shape, which matters because rocks can fall from near Camp 2 down roughly the length of the route. Since arriving in base camp in early July, we’d hoped that fresh snow would stabilize the lower mountain. But although we extended our expedition by nearly two weeks while waiting for a summit window, almost no snow fell below 6,500m over the course of the season. Precip fell as rain instead. The dry conditions made it very challenging to effectively manage the objective hazard and provide an adequate margin of safety for our team — even considering the relatively high amount of risk that any ascent of K2 entails. Throughout the season, numerous minor rockfall-related injuries and many near misses — and one very sad fatality related to loose rock — underscored the danger.

So, overall it was a tough season in the Karakoram. We tried to respect the conditions on the mountains, and heed the very good advice that getting to the summit is optional, while coming home safely is mandatory. We’re looking forward to returning to Pakistan next year — hopefully after a wetter winter!


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

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Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering team sent word today that our Broad Peak expedition team has safely arrived back in Skardu after a strong effort on the world’s 12th highest peak. Our team, as well as the others, were all turned around after climbing to the high reaches of the mountain due to persistent wind, storms, and poor conditions that have made this season more challenging than others in years past. We’re so proud of the team for their efforts and are happy to report that they are safely off of the mountain, and making their way home. Meanwhile, our K2 expedition team is waiting it out in K2 Base Camp, with hopes of making a late season summit attempt soon! More updates still to come from the Karakoram… Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this update from K2 Base Camp:

Hello from the Karakoram!

Today our Broad Peak (8051m/26,414ft) climber arrived safely back in Skardu (2220m/7283ft) after trekking out from K2 Base Camp (4968m/16,300ft). Unfortunately, this was a very challenging season on Broad Peak, with high rockfall hazard up to Camp 2, and frequent heavy snow storms and strong winds above that point. In late July, our team joined forces with three of the other strongest teams on Broad Peak this season, but everyone was turned around by poor conditions. Our Broad Peak climber waited here in K2 BC for several more days as we looked for another summit opportunity. Ultimately though, in the face of persistent jet stream winds on the summit, and as the vast majority of other teams ended their Broad Peak expeditions, we decided to do the same. It was a painful decision, but we think it was the right one for the safety of our climber and staff. Currently it seems Broad Peak may not see a summit this season.

Meanwhile, our K2 (8611m/28,251ft) team is still waiting here in base camp, hoping that summit winds will finally decline and allow a late-season summit attempt. We’ll be in touch!


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

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Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Karakoram expedition teams are now safely back together again in base camp! After a strong effort on Broad Peak, the team descended back down the mountain along with the other teams, due to poor weather and route conditions. The team is all in good spirits and waiting patiently! Both the K2 and Broad Peak expedition teams hope for a weather window to make another attempt soon. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from K2 Base Camp:

Hello again from the foot of K2 (4968m/16,300ft)! We’re still playing the expedition waiting game here, watching our forecast for a weather window with winds low enough for a summit bid on K2 (8611m/28,251ft). While we wait, we’ve been going for hikes, and practicing our technical skills and ice climbing on the towers of the Godwin-Austen Glacier.

Our Broad Peak (8051m/26,414ft) climbers have returned to base camp, after they – and the other teams on the mountain – were turned around by poor weather and deep snow above Camp 3. We’re looking for a window for them to make another attempt.

We’ll be in touch!


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

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Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Broad Peak team pushed higher on the route today, working to fix lines toward the summit. However, due to tough conditions on the mountain, they made the decision to turn back. Now safely back at Camp 2, the team is resting and will evaluate their next steps soon. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester shares this update from K2 Base Camp:

Today our Broad Peak (8051m/26,414ft) team attempted to re-establish the route above Camp 3. Working with the three other teams on the mountain, they broke trail through new snow and re-fixed several hundred meters toward the col between the central and south summits of the mountain. Unfortunately, our team, and the others, were turned around by stormy, low-visibility conditions and route-finding challenges. They’re now safely in Camp 2 while we reassess their options. I’ll be in touch with another update tomorrow.


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

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Broad Peak as seen from high on K2. Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Broad Peak expedition team is in position to make their summit push! The team has crawled into their tents for the night and looks to go for the summit soon, when the weather allows. Stay tuned for more updates to come from the Karakoram! Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this brief dispatch from K2 Base Camp:

Hello again from K2 Base Camp (4968m/16,300ft)! Today our Broad Peak (8051m/26,414ft) climber moved to Camp 3, preparing for a summit push tonight or tomorrow night, weather dependent. Meanwhile our K2 (8611m/28,251ft) climbers spent an active rest day hiking on the Savoia Glacier by base camp. The team is well. We’ll be in touch tomorrow.


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram: