2022 Everest expedition dispatches

Climber Cameron Kenny ascending through the Khumbu Icefall

The second rotation is complete and the team has returned to base camp.  Here’s Everest guide Terray Sylvester with a recap and the plan for what’s next:

Hello!  This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest and Lhotse expedition.  It’s May 5th.

We just returned from Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) back to base camp (5310m/17,421ft).  We spent three nights on the upper mountain for our second acclimatization rotation.  We went directly from base camp up to Camp 2, then took a rest day, and then we went up and touched Camp 3 at just about 7000m on the Lhotse Face.  We then spend another night at Camp 2 and came back down here to base camp today.  We had fantastic climbing conditions and weather throughout.  We managed to avoid most other parties on the route.  On the day we went up the Lhotse Face we had absolutely perfect conditions with spectacular views.  It felt really good to get up a little bit higher and finish laying the groundwork of our acclimatization for our summit push.

Now we’re back in base camp and we’ll just be resting for that summit attempt.  We’re going to do a “drop back” where we head down to lower elevation in Namche Bazaar (3440m/11,290ft) to let our bodies recover from being up at altitude for nearly a month and maximize our strength for the summit push.

We just finished dinner of pork chops and macaroni and cheese and vegetables and cake.  Now we are watching “The Bourne Legacy” and we’ll go to bed after that.

All is well and we’ll be in touch!

The team getting comfortable with their down suits before the climb to Camp 3 the following day

The team getting comfortable with their down suits before the climb to Camp 3 the following day

Climbing the Lhotse Face

Climbing the Lhotse Face

Part of the team in Camp 3

Part of the team in Camp 3

Climber Todd Ammerman with Guide Cacho Beiza in Camp 3

Climber Todd Ammerman with Guide Cacho Beiza in Camp 3


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

Camp 2

Today the Everest team tagged Camp 3 on the Lhotse Face and returned to Camp 2 as part of the second rotation.  Here’s expedition leader Garrett Madison with today’s expedition dispatch:

Hello!  This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest and Lhotse expedition team.  Today is Wednesday, May 4th.

We had a great day up here climbing to Camp 3 (7230m/23,720ft) and returning to Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft)… [transmission drops]


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.

Instagram:

Camp 2

The second rotation has kicked off with an excellent night of climbing up the Khumbu Icefall and a warming morning in the Western Cwm.  Here’s expedition leader Garrett Madison with today’s expedition dispatch:

Hello!  This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest and Lhotse expedition team.  Today is May 2nd.

Today we woke up and had breakfast at 01:00am in base camp (5310m/17,421ft), left base camp at 02:00am, and climbed up the Khumbu Icefall.  We had a beautiful night and early morning of climbing.  There’s some fresh snow in the icefall which made it very nice.  Once the sun came up we have some good views.  Not many people in the icefall today, just a couple of other teams – some friends we recongized.

We got up to Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft) around 08:00am and then we continued on up to Camp 2.  Got up to Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) midday, had lunch, and just took an afternoon nap.

We just finished our dinner.  Everyone’s up here doing great!  We’re tired, it was a big, hard day – long day, hot at the end coming into Camp 2 but everyone did really well.  We’re recovering well and looking forward to a nice rest day tomorrow.  It’s snowing right now outside our tents.  We’re tucked in and looking foward to a good night’s rest.

We’ll check in soon, thanks!


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.

Instagram:

Everest Base Camp at night

Our Everest team is ready for the second rotation and will be heading up as soon as the weather allows.  Here’s expedition leader Garrett Madison with the day’s dispatch:

Hello!  This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest and Lhotse expedition team.  Today is May 1st.  It’s been a snow day here in base camp.  Nice weather, but cloudy and snowing – we’ve had fun.

We’ve been getting ready for our planned departure tonight to begin our second rotation up to the higher camps.  However, we’re going to wake up around midnight and check the weather.  If it’s good, we’ll go.  If it’s snowing, it’s a blizard, we’ll obviously stay here and wait one more day.

Everyone’s doing great and we’re excited to get up the mountain soon.

We’ll check in again soon!


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.

Instagram:

Guide Rob Smith and climber Chase Merriam sharpening skills at the base of the Khumbu Icefall

The beautiful weather of the rest break has been snapped by some snow and fog at Everest Base Camp.  Here’s expedition leader Garrett Madison with the day’s dispatch:

Hello!  This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest and Lhotse expedition team.  Today is Saturday, April 30th and we’re in Everest Base Camp.

It’s been snowing and foggy today.  It’s supposed to have some snow tomorrow and little more cloudy weather for the next day or two, but we’re all doing great.  We did some training today out on the Khumbu Icefall and Glacier just next to base camp and everyone’s doing good here in base camp.

Our small private team of Kenton Cool, Rebecca Louise, and Elia Saikaly are all up at Camp 2 (on an acclimitization rotation).  They will be coming down in the next couple of days.

All’s well here on Mount Everest, we’re acclimatizing, we’re doing great, watching lots of movies after dinner, and enjoying our time here.  We’ll check in soon, thanks!

Everest Base Camp sweet Everest Base Camp (aka home)

Everest Base Camp sweet Everest Base Camp (aka home)

Climber Josh Garrison continues training prior to the second rotation on Everest

Climber Josh Garrison continues training prior to the second rotation on Everest

More practice near Everest base camp

Climber Chase Merriam doing more fixed line practice near Everest base camp

Everest second rotation warm-up on the Khumbu Glacier

Everest second rotation warm-up on the Khumbu Glacier

Refining climbing skills before the second rotation on Everest

Refining climbing skills before the second rotation on Everest


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.

Instagram:

Guide Rob Smith and climber Carter Beck

Keeping active, the Everest team hiked up to Prayer Flag Point today while they countdown to the start of the second rotation.  Here’s guide Terray Sylvester with today’s expedition dispatch:

Hello!  This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest and Lhotse expedition.  It’s April 29th.

Today we had another rest day in base camp.  Most of our team hiked up to a knob we call “Prayer Flag Point” which is a good distance above base camp on the flanks of Pumori with great views of base camp itself, and Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, and all the surrounding peaks.  Really nice warm weather in the morning then a little bit of snow in the afternoon.

We’re about to start dinner and all is well.  We’ll be in touch with more updates tomorrow.

Everest team celebrates another acclimatization hike

Everest team celebrates another acclimatization hike

Acclimatizing near Everest Base Camp

Acclimatizing near Everest Base Camp

Climber Cameron Kenny

Climber Cameron Kenny

Base Camp with the summit of Everest visible high above

Base Camp with the summit of Everest visible high above


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.

Instagram:

Beautiful view of Everest from base camp

The beautiful weather continues for the rest days in Everest base camp.  Everest guide Terray Sylvester calls in today’s expedition dispatch:

Hello!  This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest and Lhotse expedition.  It’s April 28th.

Today we had another rest day in base camp – really warm, beautiful weather.  The good weather just continues.  It looks like it will be another few days before we move up on our second rotation.  We’re just giving our Sherpa teams time to move oxygen and other supplies up to the South Col because the fixed lines have now been fixed all the way to Camp 4 (7900m/25,919ft on the South Col).

So, everything is well.  Tomorrow we’ll probably do a little more training in the ice pinnacles near base camp or maybe some ice climbing or maybe head out for a hike above base camp.

All’s good here, we’ll be in touch!

Warm, relaxing rest days at Everest base camp

Warm, relaxing rest days at Everest base camp


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.

Instagram:

Guide Rob Smith hiking with climber Roi Negri on the flanks of Pumori above base camp

With a rest day in Everest base camp, the team did some exploring of the base camp surroundings to stay active.  Everest guide Terray Sylvester calls in today’s expedition dispatch:

Hello!  This is Terray calling in for the 2022 Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest and Lhotse expedition.  It’s April 27th.

Today we had another rest day in base camp.  Some of us decided to take a hike up on the flanks of Pumori and another group headed off toward Kala Patthar down near Gorak Shep.  We had some snow flurries in the morning, but now it’s a pleasant, brezzy evening with, of course, the usual spectacular views.

We’ll probably be in base camp a couple more nights before heading up on our second rotation.  We’re just settling in to dinner, then followed up by a movie, and off to bed.

All is well here in base camp!  We’ll be in touch!

View of base camp from the Pumori slopes

View of Everest base camp from the Pumori slopes

Hiking above Everest base camp

Hiking above Everest base camp


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.

Instagram:

Climber Sara Safari relaxing at Everest base camp

Another beautiful rest day in Everest base camp!  Everest guide Terray Sylvester calls in today’s expedition dispatch:

Hello!  This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest and Lhotse expedition.  It’s April 26th.

Today we had another rest day in base camp.  We’ll be here resting for a few more days before we head up on our second rotation.  It was a beautiful sunny day with a little dusting of snow in the evening.  Our climber Sara Safari made an Iranian dish for all of us called “loobia polo“, a rice, beef, and green bean dish.

Now everyone is just settling in to watch “Baby Driver“.  So, it’s been a good day and we expect another good one tomorrow.

We’ll be in touch!

 

The 2022 Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest Base Camp

 


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.

Instagram:

Climber Dwight Crow and Garrett above acclimatizing above Camp 2

The first rotation is complete with our Everest team returning to base camp this afternoon!  Everest guide Terray Sylvester has this recap of the first rotation and the plan for the next few days:

Hello!  This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest and Lhotse expedition.  It’s April 24nd.

We just returned to base camp this afternoon from our first acclimatization rotation higher on the mountain.  We spent two nights in Camp 1 (6050m/19,849ft) and two nights in Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) before coming back down to base (5310m/17,421ft).  We had beautiful weather throughout.  We were among one of the only teams in Camp 1 and Camp 2, so it was really nice having the mountain a little bit to ourselves.

We’re just settling back-in in base camp, had dinner of pork chops and pumpkin pie.  We’re gonna watch the latest James Bond film (“No Time to Die“).

Then we’ve got a few days of rest, showers, and relaxation in our future!  We’ll be in touch!

Climber Carter Beck crossing a ladder in the icefall

Climber Carter Beck crossing a ladder in the icefall

Climbing out of the Khumbu Icefall into the Western Cwm

Climbing out of the Khumbu Icefall into the Western Cwm

The team above Camp 2 on our active rest day

The team above Camp 2 on our active rest day

Descending through the Khumbu Icefall back to base camp

Descending through the Khumbu Icefall back to base camp


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.

Instagram: