2022 Ama Dablam expedition dispatches

Ama Dablam Expedition Conclusion

Departing base camp. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Our 2022 Ama Dablam expedition has come to its conclusion! 17 total members of the Madison Mountaineering team reached the summit of Ama Dablam, and are making their journeys home. Expedition lead, Garrett Madison, and a few of our climbers and sherpa team will continue their journey towards an unclimbed peak in the Himalaya, heading into the unknown for a chance at a first ascent! Expedition guide, Terray Sylvester checks in with one final dispatch from the 2022 Madison Mountaineering Ama Dablam expedition:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the 2022 Madison Mountaineering Ama Dablam (6812m/22,349ft) expedition – it’s  Friday, November 11th.

Our expedition has wrapped up! Our clients have departed from Ama Dablam base camp (4600m/15,100ft) – some of them decided to helicopter directly from base camp to Kathmandu (1400m/4,600ft). So, they arrived here in the capitol of Nepal a couple of days ago. Two of our clients decided to enjoy a pleasant hike down the Khumbu Valley. Those guests flew from Lukla (2860m/9,383ft) via fixed wing to Kathmandu yesterday.

So, we had one last celebratory dinner here in Kathmandu last night and people are starting to take their flights home.

All in all, we had a very successful expedition! 17 total members of our team reached the summit of Ama Dablam – that was eight of our climbers, plus two guides and seven members of our sherpa team. We had absolutely excellent weather and route conditions for that climb!

So from here, Garrett and two of our climbers from Ama Dablam as well as members of our sherpa team are turning their attention to an unclimbed peak (~6000m/20,000ft) here in the Nepal, Himalaya. If you’d like to stay up to date on how that climb is progressing, please just keep an eye on the dispatches here on the website! We’ll be in touch.

Guide, Hannah Smith in the excellent bakery in Phakding while trekking out from base camp!

Guide, Hannah Smith in the excellent bakery in Phakding while trekking out from base camp!

Guide, Hannah Smith with our climbers Mandy and Andrea in Namche Bazaar while trekking out from base camp.

Guide, Hannah Smith with our climbers Mandy and Andrea in Namche Bazaar while trekking out from base camp.

Our climber, Serge, preparing to fly out of base camp. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Our climber, Serge, preparing to fly out of base camp. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Ama Dablam base camp just before we packed it up and departed. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Ama Dablam base camp just before we packed it up and departed. Photo: Terray Sylvester

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Madison Mountaineering 2022 Ama Dablam Summiteers List

The 2022 Madison Mountaineering team on the summit of Ama Dablam! Photo: Terray Sylvester

The sun has set on a beautiful 2022 Madison Mountaineering Ama Dablam expedition! Our team experienced lots of successes and summits over the course of the last few weeks in the Himalaya. Most importantly, everyone is off the mountain safely and in Kathmandu, or the comforts of their own home.

A few climbers are now heading off to make an attempt on an unclimbed ~6000m/20,000ft peak nearby for a chance to etch their names into the mountaineering history books!

We are pleased to announce the following Madison Mountaineering team members successfully obtained the summit of Ama Dablam (6812m/22,349ft) on November 5th, 2022 at approximately 9:00 AM NPT (local time):

# Name
1 Garrett Madison
2 Terray Sylvester
3 Aang Phurba Sherpa
4 Alix Sanche Mayer
5 Stephane Mayer
6 Jocelyn Cayer
7 Rich Draves
8 Serge Larouche
9 Krisli Melesk
10 Chhiring Bhote
11 Dawa Sherpa
12 Chettan Dorje Sherpa
13 Jangbu Sherpa
14 Ming Dorchi Sherpa
15 Shere Thapa Magar
Tenzi Sherpa at Camp 3. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Tenzi Sherpa at Camp 3. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Expedition leader, Garrett Madison climbing between camps 1 and 2. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Expedition leader, Garrett Madison climbing between camps 1 and 2. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Our climber, Serge, in the Gray Couloir above Camp 2. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Our climber, Serge, in the Gray Couloir above Camp 2. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Garrett Madison and Aang Phurba Sherpa on the summit! Photo: Terray Sylvester

Garrett Madison and Aang Phurba Sherpa on the summit! Photo: Terray Sylvester

Our climber, Serge, on the Mushroom Ridge below Camp 3. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Our climber, Serge, on the Mushroom Ridge below Camp 3. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Camp 2. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Camp 2. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Our climber, Alix, on the summit! Photo: Terray Sylvester

Our climber, Alix, on the summit! Photo: Terray

Our climbers, Alix, Jocelyn and Alex taking off from base camp. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Our climbers, Alix, Jocelyn and Alex taking off from base camp. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Our climber, Jocelyn, climbing toward the summit above Camp 3. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Our climber, Jocelyn, climbing toward the summit above Camp 3. Photo: Terray Sylvester

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Safely Returning to Base Camp!

Our climber, Krisli, acclimatizing above base camp with Ama Dablam in the background. Photo pulled from Madison Mountaineering archive. Photo: Terray Sylvester

The Madison Mountaineering Ama Dablam climbers who made the summit on November 5th have safely descended to base camp and are waiting to greet their fellow teammates who plan to arrive tomorrow. The summit team who had planned to make their summit push earlier in the day, were turned around due to high winds on the upper mountain – unusual for the smooth conditions they’ve had so far on this expedition. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this brief update:

Our main team is down in base camp (4600m/15,100ft) and all good. Our 3 climbers who attempted the summit (6812m/22,349ft) today with Hannah turned back due to high winds. They are in camp 1 (5791m/19,000ft) now and will descend to base camp tomorrow.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Summit Success on Ama Dablam!

Last light on Ama Dablam from Camp 1. Photo: Terray Sylvester

The first members of the Madison Mountaineering Ama Dablam team have reached the summit and safely returned to Camp 1! The other members of our team still on the upper mountain are making their summit push right now! Everyone is looking forward to being safely back in base camp and the celebration that follows. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison, checks in via Garmin inReach Mini with an update from Camp 1:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Ama Dablam (6812m/22,349ft) expedition team – today is November 5th.

We had a great summit day today – clear skies, calm winds, great views all around! About two-thirds of the team left from Camp 3 (6277m/20,594 ft) this morning – it was 4:00 AM and we reached the top around 9:00 AM, and we made our way back down to Camp 1 (5791m/19,000ft). The other third of our team moved up from Camp 2 (5980m/19,619ft) to Camp 3 today, and they will be going for the summit tomorrow morning, early. Fingers crossed they will have good weather and route conditions, but everyone’s doing well!

We’re just so thrilled that we had an amazing summit day, great weather and conditions all around. It’s been a great expedition! We’re looking forward to getting down to base camp tomorrow and then joining up with the rest of our team the following day for celebration! We’ll check in soon.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Primed for the Summit Push!

Our climber, Brian, with Pemba Sherpa on the way to Camp 2. Photo pulled from Madison Mountaineering archive. Photo: Terray Sylvester

The Ama Dablam expedition team is staged to make their summit push from Camp 2 and Camp 3, very soon now! Spirits are high and the weather conditions continue to be all-time. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison, checks in via Garmin inReach Mini with this brief update:

We just arrived in Camp 3 (6277m/20,594 ft). Half of our team is here and half in Camp 2 (5980m/19,619ft) now. Nice weather and all good.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Hello, From Camp 1!

Evening in Camp 1! Photo: Terray Sylvester

This afternoon, the team arrived in Ama Dablams’ Camp 1 under beautiful, clear skies! After enjoying a hot meal and filling up water bottles with hot water to make for a make shift sauna when stuffed in the bottom of your sleeping bag, the team is prepared to continue up the mountain towards Camp 2 or 3 tomorrow. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison, checks in with an update from Ama Dablam:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Ama Dablam (6812m/22,349ft) expedition team – today is Thursday, November 3rd and we have arrived at Camp 1 (5791m/19,000ft) on our summit rotation.

We left base camp (4600m/15,100ft) today at 10:00 AM and got up to Camp 1 between 3:00 and 4:00 PM, settled into our tents, had dinner, filled up our water bottles with hot water for the long and cold night ahead. We’re just tucking in now, getting ready to go to sleep.

Great weather up here! Everyone’s doing well on the team and we’re excited for tomorrow. We’re going to be pushing up to Camp 2 (5980m/19,619ft) and quite possibly Camp 3 (6277m/20,594 ft) [inaudible]. We’re looking at a potential summit the next day, November 5th or 6th.

All is well here on Ama Dablam! Check in soon.

Expedition leader, Garrett Madison approaching Camp 1 with the team. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Expedition leader, Garrett Madison approaching Camp 1 with the team. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Sirdar and guide, Aang Phurba Sherpa with our climber, Krisli, in Camp 1! Photo: Terray Sylvester

Sirdar and guide, Aang Phurba Sherpa with our climber, Krisli, in Camp 1! Photo: Terray Sylvester

Last light on Ama Dablam from Camp 1. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Last light on Ama Dablam from Camp 1. Photo: Terray Sylvester

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Summit Rotation has Begun!

Members of our team near Camp 2! Photo: Terray Sylvester

Today, the team started their summit rotation on Ama Dablam! The team is healthy and in good spirits with hopes to make the summit in the coming days. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with todays dispatch from Ama Dablam:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Ama Dablam (6812m/22,349ft) team – today is November 3rd.

We are heading up from base camp (4600m/15,100ft) to begin our summit rotation! We’ve had a nice couple of rest days here and lots of good food, watching movies, hanging out, recharging. And today we’re gonna head up to Camp 1 (5791m/19,000ft) and tomorrow Camp 2 (5980m/19,619ft) or 3 (6277m/20,594 ft), and then go for the summit! So, hopefully we’ll summit around November 5th or 6th, be back in base camp a day or so after. And then, some of us will be heading towards an unclimbed peak in Nepal!

Weather’s looking great! The route conditions are looking great. The team is strong and healthy, so we’re excited for this opportunity and looking forward to getting our climb underway!

We’ll check in soon.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Perfect Conditions on the First Rotation!

Madison Mountaineering climbing team high on the southwest Ridge of Ama Dablam! Photo: Terray Sylvester

The Madison Mountaineering team has returned from their first rotation on Ama Dablam, experiencing perfect conditions and reaching Camp 2 before returning to base camp. Over the next few days, the team will rest up and continue to prepare for their summit push. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison, checks in with todays dispatch from Ama Dablam base camp:

Hello and Happy Halloween! This is Garrett calling in for the Ama Dablam (6812m/22,349ft) expedition team – today’s October 31st.

Today we descended from Camp 1 (5791m/19,000ft) to our base camp (4600m/15,100ft) here at Ama Dablam. We had a great rotation – spent a couple of nights up at Camp 1 and climbed up to Camp 2 (5980m/19,619ft) yesterday. Beautiful weather, great views all around, the team did awesome and enjoyed the fun mixed climbing on the southwest ridge – mostly rock, but a little snow. Hung out at Camp 2 for a bit yesterday, had some lunch and then descended back to Camp 1. We’re all back down in base camp now!

Gina is heading up for her summit attempt. She’s at Camp 1 tonight, but the rest of us are hanging out here in base camp, resting up and gonna make our plan for a summit attempt here over the next few days.

All is well here at base camp!

All smiles during the first rotation!

All smiles during the first rotation!

Above the clouds on Ama Dablam.

Above the clouds on Ama Dablam.

The Madison Mountaineering team on the famed 'yellow tower!'

The Madison Mountaineering team on the famed ‘yellow tower!’

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Fantastic Weather for the First Rotation!

Our climber, Krisli, acclimatizing above base camp with Ama Dablam in the background. Photo pulled from Madison Mountaineering archive. Photo: Terray Sylvester

The team awoke this morning to kick off their first rotation under crystal clear, blue bird skies with plans to spend a few nights up in Camp 1. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with a dispatch from Ama Dablam base camp:

Hey! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Ama Dablam (6812m/22,349ft) team.

We are heading up to Camp 1 (5791m/19,000ft) today and have a perfect day – great weather, team’s doing awesome. We’re excited to get up there for a couple of nights to acclimatize and climb up on the route towards Camp 2 (5980m/19,619ft), and then we’ll be back down in base camp (4600m/15,100ft) to rest up before our summit push.

So, all good here in base camp! Everyone’s doing well. Beautiful weather – just solid, blue bird days, sunshine every day. Just feeling so lucky for this great weather and happy to be here.

Check in soon!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Primed for First Rotation!

Members of our team during todays puja. Photo: Terray Sylvester

The team has arrived in base camp and is all set to begin their first rotation tomorrow! Over the course of the last few days, the team’s spent their time relaxing, doing trainings, sorting gear, acclimatizing, and taking part in a puja ceremony. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in from base camp with todays dispatch:

Hey! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Ama Dablam (6812m/22,349ft) expedition team – today is Friday, October 28th.

We arrived in base camp (4600m/15,100ft) a couple of nights ago, had a nice trek up here and base camp’s just been a great place to move into, relax, enjoy – the team’s doing well! We did some training, some gear sorting after we got here, and an acclimatization hike. Today, we did our puja ceremony!

Our plan is to head up to Camp 1 (5791m/19,000ft) for a couple of nights, starting tomorrow on our first rotation. It’ll be good to get up higher, acclimatize and check out some of the climbing route from Camp 1 to Camp 2 (5980m/19,619ft). We’ll be back down in a few days!

Everyone’s doing well! We’ll check in soon. Thanks!

Acclimatizing above base camp! Photo: Terray Sylvester

Acclimatizing above base camp! Photo: Terray Sylvester

Our climber, Rich, reviewing technical skills. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Our climber, Rich, reviewing technical skills. Photo: Terray Sylvester

Our climber, Rock, near Ama Dablam base camp! Photo: Terray Sylvester

Our climber, Rock, near Ama Dablam base camp! Photo: Terray Sylvester

Our climber, Stephane, receiving a blessing for long life during today's puja! Photo: Terray Sylvester

Our climber, Stephane, receiving a blessing for long life during today’s puja! Photo: Terray Sylvester

Puja ceremony in base camp! Photo: Terray Sylvester

Puja ceremony in base camp! Photo: Terray Sylvester

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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