Tag: Unclimbed Peak

Yesterday at 9:15 AM the Madison Mountaineering team reached the top of the Unclimbed Peak, Tharke Khang, located in the Nepal Himalayas near Mount Everest at over 22,000′ (6670m).  We began our summit day just after midnight on November 3rd, and departed our high camp (19,200′ / 5820m) on the Nup La glacier near the China – Nepal border at 2 AM.  This was the culmination of more than a year’s planning, we were anxiously anticipating what the route to the summit would entail, and wondering if we would be able to ascend to the top of a peak that no climbers had yet attempted before us.  Although seemingly doable in our eyes from google earth and helicopter reconnaissance, we expected the route would likely have some unexpected challenges in store for us, perhaps preventing us from reaching the summit.

From our high camp we traversed the Nup La glacier 45 minutes to the North Face of the peak, ascending a firm 45 degree snow slope about 500 ft. up to the ridge line, breaking through the corniced ridge, then ascending the ridge through varying degrees of steepness, sometimes vertical for sustained portions.  Over the previous 2 days our team had ascended about two thirds of the route and placed fixed ropes over the steep and exposed sections, however the remaining 1/3 of the route to the summit was still unclimbed and our plan was to find and establish this portion of the route as we climbed on our final summit push, in a ‘make or break’ style.  As our team ascended the route in the very cold and dark night, we were divided into two groups.  The first group was focused on climbing ahead and fixing (problem solving) the remaining portion of the route and the second group was making steady progress towards the goal of reaching the top.  I climbed with my friends Aang Phurba and Lakpa Dandi Sherpa, Aang Phurba led the final steep pitches to the ridge just before the highest point on the peak.  Aang Phurba and I have climbed together many times in recent years on Mount Everest, K2, Lhotse, etc. His brother was part of my team in 2014 on Mount Everest and perished tragically during the avalanche in the Khumbu Icefall on April 18th that ended the climbing season for us, Aang Phurba and I have a special bond that goes beyond the singular focus of climbing.

Before reaching the summit, Lakpa Dandi and I climbed up to join Aang Phurba just below the highest point on the peak, unfurled some prayer flags and silk Khata scarves, anchoring them near the top where they would float in the breeze, then together walked the final steps to the highest point and true summit of Tharke Khang.  We could not have had a better day for climbing in the Himalayas, there was not a cloud in the sky and only a small breath of wind.  We gazed upon Mount Everest, Mount Lhotse, Mount Cho Oyu, and many other of the surrounding Himalayan peaks.  Shortly thereafter, a few of our other climbers ascended to the summit and reveled in the majesty of this spectacular mountain range on such a glorious day.  After savoring our time at the summit, we began our descent down the ridge, a series of rappels over exposed terrain, where often both sides of the ridge dropped away into nothingness. After descending around 2800′ (910m) we traversed the Nup La glacier back to our high camp and settled in for the night. Today, we awoke at 6 AM and helicoptered down to our base camp located at the Gokyo 5th lake, then continued by helicopter to Kathmandu for a celebratory dinner this evening.  It’s been somewhat of a culture shock for us today, going from isolation in a high altitude alpine zone in a remote corner of the highest mountain range on Earth, to a bustling city. We all feel very blessed to have concluded a safe climbing expedition in a beautiful mountain environment, and to now be heading home to our friends and loved ones.  For me personally, yesterday was an extra special summit day, as it was my 39th birthday and I was able to share it with friends in a spectacular place never before visited by anyone.

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Unclimbed Peak

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Unclimbed Peak

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Unclimbed Peak

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Unclimbed Peak

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Unclimbed Peak

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On November 3rd our unclimbed peak expedition team reached the Tharke Khang summit! Garrett Madison checks in via satellite phone and reports beautiful conditions with views of surrounding peaks in the Himalayas. Our climbers will now descend to high camp to eat and rest up. Nice work team!

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Audio dispatch by Garrett Madison

Our unclimbed peak expedition team checks in from high camp as they prepare for a summit push tonight. Everyone is doing well and the snow conditions are looking great on Tharke Khang.

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Audio dispatch by Garrett Madison

Our unclimbed peak expedition team is now in base camp, preparing to make a recon up to the peak to scout the potential climbing route. Our peak, Tharke Khang, looks to have a ridge line beginning from the west that appears climbable, with steep snow and ice slopes. Our base camp is comfortable with a heated dining tent and great food!

Garrett

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peak expedition

We made our from Machermo up the valley to the village of Gokyo, situated next to a beautiful aqua marine lake. After lunch a few of us hiked up nearby Gokyo Ri, at just over 17,500’. We glimpsed our unclimbed peak in the distance, still a long way off…with major challenges between us and the start of the route, about 10 miles of glacier moraine and glacier/ icefall. This will not be an easy walk to say the least…accessing the base of the route is one thing, climbing the technical ridge is another.

Exploration in essence is venturing into the unknown… and that is exactly where we are headed.

Our team is good, everyone is acclimatizing well. The weather has been favorable and we hope this trend continues. We look forward to reaching our base camp the next day or two.

Garrett Madison

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Tham Serku peak

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Ama Dablam

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Trekking through the high country towards base camp

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First view of the unclimbed peak, Tharke Khang

Machermo

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At the top of Gokyo Ri today, 17,500′

Machermo

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The village of Gokyo, at 15,600′ high in the Himalayas where we are staying

Machermo

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At one of the Gokyo lakes today

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Our head Sherpa, Aang Phurba

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Stairway to heaven

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Old chorton (in Sherpa language) means stupa

 

The Unclimbed Peak expedition team is approaching the mountain. We are trekking up the beautiful Khumbu Valley in Nepal past the iconic villages of Namche (Capital of the Khumbu), Khumjung, and soon Gokyo. Our climbers are all anticipating the moment when we pass Gokyo and can first glimpse this virgin peak. The idea of embarking on a journey where we don’t know what will lay in store for us is part of the excitement we share as every day we make our way closer to the mountain. Lead guide Sid Pattison assisted by my myself is overseeing the schedule as we push our way up the valley. The team is feeling psyched and happy to be on the move after a rest and acclimatization day in Namche drinking coffee and eating pastries.

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Unclimbed

Namche Bazaar! Despite the flights, the time in Kathmandu and the preparation, for me it always takes until Namche to start feel like we are moving forward. Yesterday we trekked from Phakding to Namche under a low cloud ceiling keeping it nice and cool. Arriving around 2 in the afternoon we all had time to wander the narrow streets and relax at the beautiful Panorama Lodge. This morning we woke up, ate breakfast and took a nice acclimatization hike up to the Everest View hotel. There we took in stunning views of Mt. Everest, Lhotse and the crown jewel of the Himalaya, Ama Dablam, our objective after our unclimbed peak. Now back at the Panorama, we eat lunch, rest and prepare to head off towards Khumjung in the morning. The team is healthy, strong and psyched to get moving!

Sid Pattison

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Namche is the main trading center and hub for the Khumbu region with many Nepalese officials, a police check, post and a bank

Namche

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Namche

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Team lunch with Ama Damblam in the background

Greetings from Lukla! We made it! After a couple of days of preparation in Kathmandu, today we boarded our Dornier aircraft and landed on Lukla. With most of our bags accounted for we are about to start off towards Phakding for the night. The crew is well rested, healthy and excited about finally being on our way to our unclimbed peak.

The Himalayan giants greeted us on arrival!

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Lukla

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Burke Khang Expedition Update – November 5th, 2015:

Our climbing team has made it to Burke Khang Advanced Base Camp! The team is currently sleeping at an elevation of 17,713 feet. Yesterday the team made another acclimatization hike with views of giants Cho Oyu, Everest, Lhotse, & Nuptse, we also spied more unclimbed peaks for next year! Check out our Facebook page for additional photos and beautiful panoramas!! Tomorrow the climbing team will head onward to our Camp 1 and up the very technical route of rock, snow, and ice towards the summit of Burke Khang!

For family and friends who want to watch the summit push check out this link, it will show you a basic map view of the climbing groups location as they push toward the summit. The data is refreshed every 10 minutes. My personal suggestion for watching this historic summit push would be to download Google Earth on your device. Once you have this software downloaded shoot me an email at: andrew@madisonmountaineering.com. I will send you an email with instructions on how to view the climbing team’s progress on Google Earth. We have been working hard to develop this technology and will hopefully have this available in a mobile application in the near future.

Team before rappel practice. Left to right: Paul and Denise Fejtek, Bill Burke,                                                          Kathy Meyers, Garrett Madison , Nick Logic

BK3

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Rappel onto glacier practice:

BK5

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View of our route to advanced base camp, towards Everest:

BK3

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View from our hike yesterday, the Ngonzoma glacier:

BK5

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Pics from our hike to advanced base camp:

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Our 2017 ‘First Ascent of an Unclimbed Peak’ was successful!, click here to read the recap of this historical climb.

Join us in the autumn of 2018 for another historic ‘first ascent’ of a 22,000’+ unclimbed peak in Nepal. This mountain is relatively nearby Mount Everest, and is unclimbed, presenting a beautiful line to the summit. The peak is approximately 6,500m -7000m and presents significant technical challenges such as steep snow / ice, as well as route finding, glacier travel and ridge climbing. We will begin our expedition in Kathmandu, then fly into Lukla and begin trekking to the base camp. From here we will have at least two higher camps on the mountain. We will have sherpa support and plan to use fixed ropes where appropriate, and stock our high camps with plenty of food, equipment, etc. After studying the mountain and climbing route we are very excited to test ourselves and explore this new area. We also are offering an Ama Dablam extension as an option to this program. This will surely be an incredible adventure!

If you are interested please contact our office for more details (+1-844-526-3629), or email garrett@madisonmountaineering.com. We are also offering a trek to the base camp that will accompany the climbing group for individuals such as friends or family members who would like to participate. The trekking group will spend one night in base camp and then return via a different route, visiting Everest base camp, then returning to Lukla and flying back to Kathmandu. If you are interested in the trek please contact us for details (+1-844-526-3629), or email garrett@madisonmountaineering.com. The cost will be commensurate with the Everest base camp trek.

“I was part of many mountaineering expeditions for the last 30 years, but Garrett and Madison Mountaineering with whom I was in Himalaya – Oct/Nov 2015 are unparalleled. Garrett possesses extraordinary knowledge, skills, expertise, passion for climbing, and especially – cares about every member of his team. Something like that I haven’t met so far and I would happily recommend them to anyone who wants to climb any demanding mountain in the world.” –Naim / Nick Logic, Phoenix, AZ

Itinerary

Climbing Team:

Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu, Transfer to Hotel

Day 02: Preparation day / city tour

Day 03: Fly Kathmandu to Lukla. Trek to Phakding

Day 04: Trek to Namche Bazar.

Day 05: Rest and Acclimatization in Namche Bazar.

Day 06: Trek to Khumjung.

Day 07: Trek to Dole.

Day 08: Trek to Macchermo

Day 09: Trek to Gokyo Lake

Day 10: Rest and Acclimatization in Gokyo

Day 11-12: Trek to base camp (5,357m)

Day 13-23: Climbing Period

Day 24: Cleaning up Base Camp

Day 25: Trek back to Gokyo

Day 26: Trek Back to Dole

Day 27: Trek back to Monjo

Day 28: Trek back to Lukla

Day 29: Fly back to Kathmandu. Transfer to Hotel.

Day 30: Depart for home country

Trekking Team:

Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu, Transfer to Hotel

Day 02: Preparation day / city tour

Day 03: Fly Kathmandu to Lukla. Trek to Phakding

Day 04: Trek to Namche Bazar.

Day 05: Rest and Acclimatization in Namche Bazar.

Day 06: Trek to Khumjung.

Day 07: Trek to Dole.

Day 08: Trek to Macchermo

Day 09: Trek to Gokyo Lake

Day 10: Rest and Acclimatization in Gokyo

Day 11-12: Trek to base camp (5,357m)

Day 13: Rest in base camp

Day 14: Trek over Cho La Pass, sleep in Gorak Shep

Day 15: Visit Everest base camp and return to Gorak Shep

Day 16: Climb Kala Pattar and descend to Perhiche

Day 17: Trek to Debuche

Day 18: Trek to Namche

Day 19: Trek to Lukla

Day 20: Fly Lukla to Kathmandu

Day 21: Rest day in Kathmandu

Day 22: Depart Kathmandu for home country

First Ascent Expedition (Approx. 6500m)
October 20 – November 18, 2018

Cost: $19,950 per person

Deposit: $2,500

Ama Dablam Extension: $6,500

Trek Dates:
October 20-November 10

Trek Cost: $4,850
Deposit: $800

Expedition & trekking costs include:

• Airport pick up in Kathmandu
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• 3 night accommodations in Kathmandu at Yak & Yeti Hotel, 2 nights before and 1 night after the expedition.
• Welcome dinner in Kathmandu
.
• Lodging for all nights during the trek to and from base camp.
• Tents during the climb.
• All food during the trek and climb. We provide high quality food from the USA and Nepal. If you have specific dietary requirements, please give us specific details and we will accommodate your needs!

• All transportation in Nepal, including round-trip flights from Kathmandu to Lukla & Lukla to Kathmandu. Helicopter out of base camp after expedition is available as an optional upgrade.

• All group equipment needed to climb the mountain: cooking gear, fuel, stoves, ropes, all forms of rock, ice, and snow protection, radio communications, medical supplies, etc.
• Sat phone is available at $3 per minute.

• Sherpa, porters, liaison officer, camp staff and guides.

• All administration fees owed to Nepal, including climbing permits.

Expedition costs do not include:

• $25 Wire Transfer Fee (If Applicable)

• International round-trip airfare (Home Country-Nepal-Home Country).

• Meals in Kathmandu and extra hotel nights after the trek / climb (once the climber has left the mountain).

• Personal gear, clothing and sleeping equipment (see gear list).

• Trip cancellation insurance. This is highly recommended and can be purchased at Travelex Insurance. A comprehensive medical and evacuation insurance policy is required to embark on this expedition. Please use location agent #47-0224 to get your policy attached to Madison Mountaineering. The Travel Select with the Adventure Pack will include mountaineering on the policy. Click here for the Travelex Insurance Adventure Pack
• Comprehensive medical exam: A physician signed Medical Release Form is required.

• Alcoholic beverages and bottled drinks.

• All expenses incurred in the event of early departure (evacuation fees, transport, extra hotel nights, etc.)
• Personal Items
• Charges incurred as a result of delays beyond the control of Madison Mountaineering, LLC.

• Personal communication (phone, fax, e-mail) between Nepal and home country.

• Gratuity for western guide.

• Sherpa summit bonus, staff tips.

Nepal Cancellation/Refund Policy 
Note: Madison Mountaineering, LLC highly recommends trip cancellation insurance for all expeditions. Due to the nature and heavy costs of government and operator permits, Madison Mountaineering must adhere to a stringent refund policy:

Deposit due with registration materials.


All balances are due 120 days prior to departure date unless otherwise specified.

Participants whose balances are not received by the 120-day deadline as stated above risk forfeiture of their place on the expedition.


There are no refunds for the deposit or balance for this expedition.


Note: Madison Mountaineering, LLC reserves the right to waive any fees. As we offer personalized service, we will attempt to accommodate changes and cancellations when necessary, waiving certain fees when feasible.

Deposits paid by participants acknowledge the above cancellation terms.

Please contact us if you have specific questions, we are happy to discuss all details of this program.

Gear List

Ice Axe: General mountaineering tool (65cm)
Crampons: General mountaineering crampons
Climbing Helmet: Must be able to fit over your ski hat
Ascender: 1 right or left hand ascender (Petzel brand is best)
Alpine Climbing Harness: A mountaineering harness, with adjustable leg loops. Not a rock climbing “sport” harness.
Carabiners: 3 locking and 3 regular
Rappel device: ATC or figure 8
Mountaineering boots: Olympus Mons, Millet, ect.
Hiking shoes: comfortable boots or shoes for the trek to base camp.
Camp boots: comfortable boots for wearing in camp.
Booties: Optional, down is best.
Wool or synthetic socks: 6 pair
Liner socks: 3 pair
Synthetic Short underwear: A non cotton style underwear.
Lightweight Long Underwear: 2-3 pair longsleve shirt and long pants
Heavyweight long underwear: 1 pair
Short Sleeve Synthetic Shirt: 1-2 pair
Lightweight Nylon Pants: 1-2 pair
Soft Shell jacket: With or without hood
Soft Shell Pants: With accessory side pockets
Hard Shell Jacket with hood: A waterproof and breathable shell jacket
Hard Shell Pants: Waterproof and breathable shell pants
Down Parka with hood: This “puffy” jacket we wear when taking breaks.
Insulated synthetic Pants: With full side zips.
Down Suit: Optional. Feathered Friends, Sherpa, North Face, Mountain Hardwear, etc.
Synthetic or wool hat (ski hat).
Balaclava: to protect your neck and face in high winds.
Baseball Cap or other sun hat: To shade your face / neck from the sun on a hot day.
Bandana or Buff: To protect your neck / face from the sun.
Glacier glasses: Full protection with side covers or wrap around.
Ski goggles: To be worn on summit day in the event of high winds.
Lightweight synthetic liner gloves: For wearing on a hot day.
Soft shell gloves: To wear for moderate cold / wind.
Shell glove with insulated liner: To wear for severe cold / strong wind.
Expedition Mitts: Large enough to fit a liner glove inside.
Expedition Backpack: 65L pack should be large enough.
Trekking Backpack: To carry on the trek to base camp. Simple and light.
Sleeping Bag (for high camps): Rated to at least -40°F. Goose down or synthetic.
Sleeping Bag (for base camp): rated to at least -20°F.
Compression stuff sacks: For reducing volume of the sleeping bag, down parka, etc., in your pack.
Self inflating sleeping pad (1 for base camp and 1 for high camps): Full length is preferred.
Closed cell foam pad: To be used in conjunction with the inflating pad for warmth and comfort when sleeping.
Trekking poles: Adjustable
Cup: A plastic 16 oz. minimum cup or mug
Bowl: A plastic bowl for eating dinner or breakfast
Spoon: Plastic spoon (lexan)
Headlamp: With 2 extra sets of new batteries
Sunscreen: SPF 50 or better
Lipscreen: SPF 30 or better (2 sticks).
Water bottles: 2 or 3 wide mouth bottles with 1 liter capacity.
Water bottle parkas (2): fully insulated with zip opening.
Thermos: 1 liter
Pee bottle: 1 liter minimum bottle for convenience at night in the tent.
Toiletry bag: Include toilet paper and hand sanitizer and small towel
Hand warmers & toe warmers: 3 sets of each. Or use Hot Tronics for foot warmer system.
Knife or multi tool (optional).
Trash compactor bags: to line back pack and stuff sacks in the event of rain or wet snow is falling on us.
Camera: Bring extra batteries and memory cards.
Travel Clothes: For days in Kathmandu.
Duffel bags (2) with locks: To transport equipment.
Base Camp Items: Kindle, Ipad, smart phone, etc.
Snack food: Please bring a few days of your favorite climbing snack food such as bars, gels, nuts, beef jerky, etc. A variety of salty and sweet is good.
Small personal first aid kit: Include athletic tape, band aids, Ibuprofin, blister care, personal medications, etc.
Medications and Prescriptions: Bring antibiotics (Azithromycin, etc.), and altitude medicine such as Diamox and dexamethasone.

Climbing Team:

Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu, Transfer to Hotel

Day 02: Preparation day / city tour

Day 03: Fly Kathmandu to Lukla. Trek to Phakding

Day 04: Trek to Namche Bazar.

Day 05: Rest and Acclimatization in Namche Bazar.

Day 06: Trek to Khumjung.

Day 07: Trek to Dole.

Day 08: Trek to Macchermo

Day 09: Trek to Gokyo Lake

Day 10: Rest and Acclimatization in Gokyo

Day 11-12: Trek to base camp (5,357m)

Day 13-23: Climbing Period

Day 24: Cleaning up Base Camp

Day 25: Trek back to Gokyo

Day 26: Trek Back to Dole

Day 27: Trek back to Monjo

Day 28: Trek back to Lukla

Day 29: Fly back to Kathmandu. Transfer to Hotel.

Day 30: Depart for home country

Trekking Team:

Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu, Transfer to Hotel

Day 02: Preparation day / city tour

Day 03: Fly Kathmandu to Lukla. Trek to Phakding

Day 04: Trek to Namche Bazar.

Day 05: Rest and Acclimatization in Namche Bazar.

Day 06: Trek to Khumjung.

Day 07: Trek to Dole.

Day 08: Trek to Macchermo

Day 09: Trek to Gokyo Lake

Day 10: Rest and Acclimatization in Gokyo

Day 11-12: Trek to base camp (5,357m)

Day 13: Rest in base camp

Day 14: Trek over Cho La Pass, sleep in Gorak Shep

Day 15: Visit Everest base camp and return to Gorak Shep

Day 16: Climb Kala Pattar and descend to Perhiche

Day 17: Trek to Debuche

Day 18: Trek to Namche

Day 19: Trek to Lukla

Day 20: Fly Lukla to Kathmandu

Day 21: Rest day in Kathmandu

Day 22: Depart Kathmandu for home country

First Ascent Expedition (Approx. 6500m)
October 20 – November 18, 2018

Cost: $19,950 per person

Deposit: $2,500

Ama Dablam Extension: $6,500

Trek Dates:
October 20-November 10

Trek Cost: $4,850
Deposit: $800

Expedition & trekking costs include:

• Airport pick up in Kathmandu
.
• 3 night accommodations in Kathmandu at Yak & Yeti Hotel, 2 nights before and 1 night after the expedition.
• Welcome dinner in Kathmandu
.
• Lodging for all nights during the trek to and from base camp.
• Tents during the climb.
• All food during the trek and climb. We provide high quality food from the USA and Nepal. If you have specific dietary requirements, please give us specific details and we will accommodate your needs!

• All transportation in Nepal, including round-trip flights from Kathmandu to Lukla & Lukla to Kathmandu. Helicopter out of base camp after expedition is available as an optional upgrade.

• All group equipment needed to climb the mountain: cooking gear, fuel, stoves, ropes, all forms of rock, ice, and snow protection, radio communications, medical supplies, etc.
• Sat phone is available at $3 per minute.

• Sherpa, porters, liaison officer, camp staff and guides.

• All administration fees owed to Nepal, including climbing permits.

Expedition costs do not include:

• $25 Wire Transfer Fee (If Applicable)

• International round-trip airfare (Home Country-Nepal-Home Country).

• Meals in Kathmandu and extra hotel nights after the trek / climb (once the climber has left the mountain).

• Personal gear, clothing and sleeping equipment (see gear list).

• Trip cancellation insurance. This is highly recommended and can be purchased at Travelex Insurance. A comprehensive medical and evacuation insurance policy is required to embark on this expedition. Please use location agent #47-0224 to get your policy attached to Madison Mountaineering. The Travel Select with the Adventure Pack will include mountaineering on the policy. Click here for the Travelex Insurance Adventure Pack
• Comprehensive medical exam: A physician signed Medical Release Form is required.

• Alcoholic beverages and bottled drinks.

• All expenses incurred in the event of early departure (evacuation fees, transport, extra hotel nights, etc.)
• Personal Items
• Charges incurred as a result of delays beyond the control of Madison Mountaineering, LLC.

• Personal communication (phone, fax, e-mail) between Nepal and home country.

• Gratuity for western guide.

• Sherpa summit bonus, staff tips.

Nepal Cancellation/Refund Policy 
Note: Madison Mountaineering, LLC highly recommends trip cancellation insurance for all expeditions. Due to the nature and heavy costs of government and operator permits, Madison Mountaineering must adhere to a stringent refund policy:

Deposit due with registration materials.


All balances are due 120 days prior to departure date unless otherwise specified.

Participants whose balances are not received by the 120-day deadline as stated above risk forfeiture of their place on the expedition.


There are no refunds for the deposit or balance for this expedition.


Note: Madison Mountaineering, LLC reserves the right to waive any fees. As we offer personalized service, we will attempt to accommodate changes and cancellations when necessary, waiving certain fees when feasible.

Deposits paid by participants acknowledge the above cancellation terms.

Please contact us if you have specific questions, we are happy to discuss all details of this program.

Ice Axe: General mountaineering tool (65cm)
Crampons: General mountaineering crampons
Climbing Helmet: Must be able to fit over your ski hat
Ascender: 1 right or left hand ascender (Petzel brand is best)
Alpine Climbing Harness: A mountaineering harness, with adjustable leg loops. Not a rock climbing “sport” harness.
Carabiners: 3 locking and 3 regular
Rappel device: ATC or figure 8
Mountaineering boots: Olympus Mons, Millet, ect.
Hiking shoes: comfortable boots or shoes for the trek to base camp.
Camp boots: comfortable boots for wearing in camp.
Booties: Optional, down is best.
Wool or synthetic socks: 6 pair
Liner socks: 3 pair
Synthetic Short underwear: A non cotton style underwear.
Lightweight Long Underwear: 2-3 pair longsleve shirt and long pants
Heavyweight long underwear: 1 pair
Short Sleeve Synthetic Shirt: 1-2 pair
Lightweight Nylon Pants: 1-2 pair
Soft Shell jacket: With or without hood
Soft Shell Pants: With accessory side pockets
Hard Shell Jacket with hood: A waterproof and breathable shell jacket
Hard Shell Pants: Waterproof and breathable shell pants
Down Parka with hood: This “puffy” jacket we wear when taking breaks.
Insulated synthetic Pants: With full side zips.
Down Suit: Optional. Feathered Friends, Sherpa, North Face, Mountain Hardwear, etc.
Synthetic or wool hat (ski hat).
Balaclava: to protect your neck and face in high winds.
Baseball Cap or other sun hat: To shade your face / neck from the sun on a hot day.
Bandana or Buff: To protect your neck / face from the sun.
Glacier glasses: Full protection with side covers or wrap around.
Ski goggles: To be worn on summit day in the event of high winds.
Lightweight synthetic liner gloves: For wearing on a hot day.
Soft shell gloves: To wear for moderate cold / wind.
Shell glove with insulated liner: To wear for severe cold / strong wind.
Expedition Mitts: Large enough to fit a liner glove inside.
Expedition Backpack: 65L pack should be large enough.
Trekking Backpack: To carry on the trek to base camp. Simple and light.
Sleeping Bag (for high camps): Rated to at least -40°F. Goose down or synthetic.
Sleeping Bag (for base camp): rated to at least -20°F.
Compression stuff sacks: For reducing volume of the sleeping bag, down parka, etc., in your pack.
Self inflating sleeping pad (1 for base camp and 1 for high camps): Full length is preferred.
Closed cell foam pad: To be used in conjunction with the inflating pad for warmth and comfort when sleeping.
Trekking poles: Adjustable
Cup: A plastic 16 oz. minimum cup or mug
Bowl: A plastic bowl for eating dinner or breakfast
Spoon: Plastic spoon (lexan)
Headlamp: With 2 extra sets of new batteries
Sunscreen: SPF 50 or better
Lipscreen: SPF 30 or better (2 sticks).
Water bottles: 2 or 3 wide mouth bottles with 1 liter capacity.
Water bottle parkas (2): fully insulated with zip opening.
Thermos: 1 liter
Pee bottle: 1 liter minimum bottle for convenience at night in the tent.
Toiletry bag: Include toilet paper and hand sanitizer and small towel
Hand warmers & toe warmers: 3 sets of each. Or use Hot Tronics for foot warmer system.
Knife or multi tool (optional).
Trash compactor bags: to line back pack and stuff sacks in the event of rain or wet snow is falling on us.
Camera: Bring extra batteries and memory cards.
Travel Clothes: For days in Kathmandu.
Duffel bags (2) with locks: To transport equipment.
Base Camp Items: Kindle, Ipad, smart phone, etc.
Snack food: Please bring a few days of your favorite climbing snack food such as bars, gels, nuts, beef jerky, etc. A variety of salty and sweet is good.
Small personal first aid kit: Include athletic tape, band aids, Ibuprofin, blister care, personal medications, etc.
Medications and Prescriptions: Bring antibiotics (Azithromycin, etc.), and altitude medicine such as Diamox and dexamethasone.

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