Tag Archive for: Icefall

Two of our team members amid dramatic scenery above Camp 1. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Manaslu expedition team has returned to base camp after a successful first rotation on the mountain, climbing above Camp 1 and into the icefall that separates Camp 1 from the next camp. With some weather in the forecast over the next few days, the team plans to rest and prepare for a second acclimatization rotation before leaving on their summit push. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from the Himalayas:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Manaslu (8156m/26,759ft) expedition – today is September 13th.

Today we woke up to about a foot of fresh snow up in Camp 1 (5700m/18,700ft). It was still snowing heavily and there was more snow in the forecast, so we decided to descend to base camp (4859m/15,944ft) instead of continuing up to Camp 2 (6400m/21,000ft). We got here a bit before lunch, dried out, and we just wrapped up dinner and a movie.

We’re going to spend tomorrow resting and then prepare for our next rotation as soon as the weather permits! But, we had a really great rotation up to Camp 1. We spent two nights there and made a foray up into the icefall between Camps 1 and 2, so it was a good step as we acclimatize for our eventual summit push.

All is well here in Nepal and we will be in touch tomorrow!

The dog that climbed all the way from base camp to camp 1 the same day we did. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

The dog that climbed all the way from base camp to camp 1 the same day we did. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

The team approaching the outskirts of Camp 1. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

The team approaching the outskirts of Camp 1. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Eyeing the path ahead... (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Eyeing the path ahead… (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Moving to Camp 1 from base camp in great weather. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Moving to Camp 1 from base camp in great weather. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Manaslu expedition team had a productive day in Camp 1! We started our day by taking an acclimatization hike further up the route, allowing our climbers to get familiar with the climbing still to come, all while building the red blood cells that help us to climb higher and higher on the mountain. Tomorrow, our team will descend back down to our base camp where we’ll rest and get ready for the next rotation! Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from Camp 1 on Manaslu:

Today we rested in Camp 1 (5700m/18,700ft). In the morning we went for an acclimatization foray into the icefall that separates Camp 1 from Camp 2 (6400m/21,000ft), then returned to our tents for a lunch of cheese and bacon quesadillas. With unexpectedly heavy snow in the forecast, we plan to descend to base camp (4859m/15,944ft) tomorrow to rest for our next rotation.


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

Today we departed Mount Everest base camp at 4 AM and climbed up through the Khumbu Icefall in the pre dawn hours when the ice is solid. Then we had the pleasure of a beautiful sunrise as we ascended up through the Icefall to Camp 1. After reaching Camp 1 we continued up through the Western CWM (valley) to Camp 2, our Advanced Base Camp. It was a long day of climbing, but we are happy to finally have arrived in our Advanced Base Camp on Mount Everest and now looking forward to a rest day tomorrow! Everyone is doing well here on Mount Everest!

Today our Sherpas carried 10 loads of ropes and hardware from Camp 2, our Advanced Base Camp, to the South Col high camp (Camp 4) on Mount Everest.  This load carry is approximately 4,500 ft. (1380m) from Camp 2 to Camp 4, and very strenuous day, which involves climbing the steep ice of the Lhotse Face, crossing the rock formation known as the Yellow Band, and then up and over the secondary rock formation known as the Geneva Spur, a ridge line which separates the upper Lhotse Face.  Our Sherpas are planning to carry another 10 loads of essential equipment tomorrow, to complete the positioning of gear necessary for the rope fixing project to reach the summit of Mount Everest.

Puja Day:

 Yesterday was our Puja ceremony in base camp. Our whole team of climbers and Sherpas took part with a Buddhist lama. They ask  permission for the mountain to grant us safe passage. After the blessing was complete and our Puja ceremony finished, we commenced with some dancing and traditional Sherpa / Nepali music. Then, our whole team walked down to the helicopter pad in base camp to reconstruct the helipad. Our team of climbers & Sherpas, 40 men in total, worked for 2 hours to carry rocks and gravel to the helipad .They level the surface in preparation for the helicopter flights to transport the loads of equipment for the rope fixing project . i.e (ropes, carabiners, ice screws, etc.) from base camp to Camp 2 on Mount Everest.

Today at 6 AM we awoke to a cloudy sky in base camp. But, soon after the clouds burned off and the weather was suitable for flying. We transported all of the equipment for the rope fixing project (750 kg) from our base camp to the helipad . Until then waited for the AS 350 B3E helicopter to arrive. By 8:30 AM the helicopter arrived and the first load went up to Camp 2 where our climbing Sherpas had been waiting anxiously for the helicopter to land. And, unload the equipment.

They had arrived earlier in the day and already scouted a suitable landing zone for the helicopter . They were communicating with us in base camp by VHF radio regarding the weather conditions at Camp 2 . Additionally, the expected arrival time of the first helicopter load. In total 7 flights were made from the base camp helipad with equipment for the rope fixing project. This will be deposited in our Camp 2 where our Sherpas will collect the equipment. Afterwards, they will begin rope fixing up the Lhotse face towards Camp 3 on April 19th. As, Tomorrow April 18th is a ‘black day’ in memory of the 2014 Khumbu Icefall tragedy that took the lives of 16 Sherpas.

Icefall Training, and Rope Fixing Update

Our team of climbers is currently training in the lower Khumbu Icefall today practicing ascending vertical fixed ropes, rappelling, and crossing ladders. They are training for the preparation for our climb to Camp 1. The weather is nice and we are excited that everything is on track so far for Everest 2018!

Settled into EBC :

Today is our 4th day in Everest base camp, we are now settled here for this 2018 expedition. We have been training for the Khumbu Icefall by practicing various climbing techniques such as ascending fixed ropes, rappelling, and crossing ladders. We will continue training the next few days before we make our first ‘rotation’ to Camps 1 & 2. Tomorrow is our Puja ceremony. All is well here in base camp.

Settled In Dinning Room

                                                                                                                                                     Resting In Dinning Room

 

 

Today our team packed up from Camp 2 and made a safe descent through the Khumbu Icefall. Arriving into Base Camp a little before lunch time. Up on the mountain the winds were strong and our team spent a lot of time in our field tested Mountain Hardwear Trango 3 tents. Spending five days up on Everest our climbers were able to acclimate and get ready for the next rotation. Tomorrow will be dedicated to rest and recovery with no planned activities in the day. Tonight we had a feast of a meal and I’m sure that will continue in the days to come. Weather the past few days has been blue skies with no clouds, which means it is very cold once the sun goes down. We are all in good health and look forward to the adventures ahead of us.

 

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