Tag Archive for: Carstensz Pyramid

Our Carstensz Pyramid expedition has come to a close! That marks the second successful climb in 2025, with two more climbs scheduled later this year. Today, the team flew back to Bali where they’ll spend one last night before saying their goodbye’s and heading back home, with good memories from their time on the highest peak in Oceania. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this closing dispatch for this Carstensz climb:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Carstensz Pyramid (4884m/16,024ft) private climb – today is March 12th!

Yesterday morning we woke up to starry skies a little bit before dawn in Yellow Valley Base Camp (4285m/14,050ft) up at Carstensz Pyramid. By a little after 6:00 helicopters were landing in base camp, so we caught a really scenic flight over the mine and down across the forests of West Papua and back to Timika (31m/103ft)! When we arrived here, it was a bit too late for flights back to Bali (4m/13ft), so we spent one last night in our really pleasant hotel here in Timika and this morning we’re getting ready to catch out flight back to Denpasar and the beaches of Bali.

So, all in all it’s been a really great trip and successful summit. I’m looking forward to coming back again! So, this will be the last dispatch of this trip.


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

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Final steps to the summit! (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Carstensz Pyramid expedition team spent the day relaxing in base camp and recounting good memories from the day prior up on the mountain. While the team hoped that they’d be able to fly back to Timika today, some clouds prevented helicopters from flying. But, that didn’t stop them from soaking in the sunshine and making the most of their time as the expedition nears its end. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from Carstensz Pyramid:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Carstensz Pyramid (4884m/16,024ft) private climb – today is March 10th.

Today we hoped to fly by helicopter back to Timika (31m/103ft). But, although the morning was sunny, a few clouds lower in the valley prevented helicopters from getting through. So instead,  we spent a peaceful day here in base camp (4285m/14,050ft) and we will try again tomorrow.

So all is well and we’ll be in touch!

Flying to base camp (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Flying to base camp (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Our climber, Scott, climbing the systems of ledges that leads to Carstensz’ summit ridge (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Our climber, Scott, climbing the systems of ledges that leads to Carstensz’ summit ridge (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Gaining the summit ridge at about 15,500’ (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Gaining the summit ridge at about 15,500’ (photo by Terray Sylvester)

The famous cable crossing (photo by Terray Sylvester)

The famous cable crossing (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Negotiating the ridge (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Negotiating the ridge (photo by Terray Sylvester)


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

Summit photo atop Carstensz Pyramid!

It comes with great excitement to share that another Madison Mountaineering team has successfully reached the summit of Carstensz Pyramid! This marks the last of the ‘seven summits‘ for our climber, Scott, and the last of our climbs on the highest peak in Oceania for the current season. A huge congratulations goes out to our team who enjoyed excellent weather for the their time on the mountain, making great time up the route as they navigated engaging terrain on their way to the summit. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this celebratory dispatch following their summit on Carstensz Pyramid:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Carstensz Pyramid (4884m/16,024ft) private climb – today is March 9.

Today we summited Carstensz Pyramid, the highest point in Oceania and one of the ‘seven summits‘, depending on how you count. It was a fantastic climb! We left camp a little after 3:30 and stood on the summit around 7:00. It was a quick climb and excellent conditions! There was a high overcast which kept things cool as we came down, but the rock was dry and the route was in great shape. It was really spectacular moving up the fun and varied terrain that takes you up the series of ledges and steep sections up to the summit ridge, and then across the famous cable crossing, and then along the ridge winding around towers with a few crack step overs, and onto the summit!

We dropped back down in time for lunch and just had a nice meal of potato-beef soup, fresh greens, curried chicken, and rice! So, now we’re heading to bed and we’re looking forward to hopefully, hopefully flying out tomorrow depending on the weather.

Okay, yeah! Great news and the last element of this is that this was the final one of the ‘seven summits‘ for our guest, Scott! So, it was great to be able to join him for that milestone.

All is well here in West Papua and we’ll be in touch!


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

Our team's heli arriving in Timika.

The second of the Madison Mountaineering Carstensz Pyramid expedition teams arrived in their base camp, filled with energy and excitement after a short delay in Timika while awaiting their flight to the mountain.  Once settled into their tents, the team laced up their shoes and took to the route, making a trip up the lower section of the mountain which they plan to repeat again in the near future, only this time on the way to the summit. The weather for our arrival on the mountain was magnificent, offering unobstructed views from the air and once we touched down on the helipad in our temporary home. With more good weather in the forecast, the team looks forward to making their summit push! Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from Carstensz Pyramid:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Carstensz Pyramid (4884m/16,024ft) private climb – today is March 8.

This morning we woke up at 4:45, caught a ride from our hotel in Timika (31m/103ft) at 5:30, and a couple hours later we were on a helicopter en route to Carstensz Pyramid Base Camp (4285m/14,050ft)! It was a beautiful day for the flight, clear skies as we flew with excellent views of the rainforest and the canyons, the spectacular canyons beneath Carstensz Pyramid with towering waterfalls and amazing cliffs. Anyway, we came in over the mine and then landed here at base camp in the Yellow Valley.

We got settled into our tents and then we went for a foray up the beginning of the climbing route. We went as high as the second terrace. The route follows a system of ledges up to the summit ridge, and we went up to the second one of those ledges. It was really fun climbing, very textured limestone, lots of handholds and footholds. Since the weather has stayed good, we had great views of the surrounding ridge lines and peaks.

So now we’ve had lunch! It was really nice – some sautéed vegetables, rice, and prawns. And, we’re relaxing until this evening! We are trying to decide weather or not we will go for the summit this evening. But, so far all is well. We’re both feeling great! So most likely, we will make our summit attempt tomorrow morning. So, we will be in touch tomorrow and all is well here in West Papua in Indonesia!

Our climber, Scott, in the air over the rainforest.

Our climber, Scott, in the air over the rainforest.

Follow the Oromana River toward the highest peak in Oceania.

Follow the Oromana River toward the highest peak in Oceania.

Our climber, Scott, getting a taste of the limestone climbing on Carstensz Pyramid.

Our climber, Scott, getting a taste of the limestone climbing on Carstensz Pyramid.

Our climber, Scott, soaking up some Papuan sunshine and good vibes with guide Terray Sylvester.

Our climber, Scott, soaking up some Papuan sunshine and good vibes with guide Terray Sylvester.


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

Madison Mountaineering guide, Terray Sylvester with our climber, Scott at the hotel in Timika after their flight from Bali!

The Madison Mountaineering Carstensz Pyramid expedition team has arrived in Timika and is awaiting their flight to the mountain! There, they’ll settle into the Yellow Valley Base Camp, do some acclimatization, and technical skills review before making their summit push. In the meantime, the team is enjoying lots of oxygen down low, and the luxuries of what feels more like a vacation than a mountaineering expedition at our hotel! Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from Timika:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the next Madison Mountaineering Carstensz Pyramid  (4884m/16,024ft) expedition – today is March 3rd.

Last night we headed to the airport in Bali and this morning, we arrived in West Papua! Our flights were uneventful, smooth all the way around. We just got settled in at the Ossa de Villa Hotel which is very pleasant here in downtown Timika (31m/103ft). We’re surrounded by tropical plants and the sound of birdsong. So, we’ll get sorted out here and be prepared to fly to the mountain as soon as possible!

All is well here in Indonesia and we’ll be in touch!


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

The Madison Mountaineering team on the summit of Carstensz Pyramid on February 27, 2025!

The first of our Carstensz Pyramid expeditions in 2025 has come to a close. Despite a delay getting to the mountain, our team remained patient and were treated with a glorious summit day climbing through the night and emerging above the clouds as they topped out on the highest peak in Oceania! The team is now making their way back to Bali and then onto their homes, with good memories and new friends from the expedition. Congratulations to everyone on the team, and a special shoutout goes out to our climbers, Jeff and Bjarni who successfully completed their ‘seven summits‘ journey! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this celebratory dispatch from Carstensz Pyramid:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Carstensz Pyramid (4884m/16,024ft) expedition team.

We had a great climb of Carstensz Pyramid! Everybody who stuck with the expedition and made it up to base camp made it to the summit! Congratulations to our team, Robin and Lauren, Daniel, Bjarni and Jeff. Awesome climb, very winter-like conditions up there, and was the last of the ‘seven summits‘ for Bjarni and Robin. Big congrats finishing the ‘seven summits!’

We’ve been delayed a little bit on the flight out of here due to weather and some situation on the mountain. But fortunately, three of our team got off a few days ago and myself, Jeff, and Bjarni are waiting to fly out, hopefully tomorrow. Fingers crossed, hopefully good weather in the forecast!

We’re looking forward to our next Carstensz Pyramid team with Terray starting up here shortly!

The team en route to the summit!

The team en route to the summit!

Crossing an airy traverse on the way to the summit.

Crossing an airy traverse on the way to the summit.

All smiles amongst the clouds!

All smiles amongst the clouds!

Above the clouds and clear visibility of the route to the summit.

Above the clouds and clear visibility of the route to the summit.

Another airy traverse that must be crossed to get to the summit.

Another airy traverse that must be crossed to get to the summit.

Climbers nearing the top!

Climbers nearing the top!

Climbers, Lauren and Robin celebrating the completion of Robin's 'seven summits' journey on top of Carstensz Pyramid! Nice job, Robin.

Climbers, Lauren and Robin celebrating the completion of Robin’s ‘seven summits’ journey on top of Carstensz Pyramid! Nice job, Robin.

Summit!

Summit!

More summit photos.

More summit photos.

A climber crossing one of the traverses en route to the summit.

A climber crossing one of the traverses en route to the summit.


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

Carstensz Pyramid as seen from afar.

The second of our Carstensz Pyramid expeditions in 2025 is off! After 100% of our team who left base camp on the first climb successfully reached the top of the highest peak on the continent on February 27, 2025, another team has come together with their sights set on the summit. With a gear check complete and final logistical items now in place, the team looks to move to their base camp soon! Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester check in with this dispatch from Bali:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the next Madison Mountaineering Carstensz peak (4884m/16,024ft) expedition – today is March 2nd here in Bali, Indonesia.

The team arrived here over the last 24 hours or so. So, we spent most of yesterday getting ready to move on closer to the mountain, doing gear checks and making other arrangements. This evening, if all goes according to plan we will fly over to the island of New Guinea to Timika (31m/103ft). We’ll arrive there early tomorrow morning and then as soon as possible, hopefully we’ll fly on to Yellow Valley Base Camp (4285m/14,050ft) at the foot of the peak.

So far, all is well! It’s been really beautiful weather here in Bali, perfect temperatures in our hotel right on the beach! It’s a really nice place to start a mountaineering expedition. And when we arrived, we were lucky enough to coincide with our guests arriving back from the previous successful ascent of Carstensz Pyramid! So, we spent the last day and a half socializing with them as they prepare to head off home!

So, all is well and we’ll be in touch from Timika!


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

Great views while approaching Carstensz Pyramid from the helicopter!

The Madison Mountaineering Carstensz Pyramid expedition team has arrived in base camp after being delayed for several days before flying over the jungle and to the mountain! It feels good to be back once again after our return to Carstensz last October where 100% of the team reached the summit. Now settled into our base camp, the team is psyched and ready to start their climb! With good weather ahead, the team plans to make their summit push with hopes of topping out on Puncak Jaya, one of the famed ‘seven summits!’ Expedition leader, Garrett Madison check in with this dispatch from Carstensz Pyramid:

Hello! This is Garrett checking in for the Madison Mountaineering Carstensz Pyramid (4884m/16,024ft) expedition – our first trip of the season here in February.

We made it up to base camp today! We were so happy to finally be able to fly up by helicopter from Timika (31m/103ft) airport to the Yellow Valley base camp (4285m/14,050ft) at the base of Carstensz Pyramid. So, we are all here and we are so pumped and ready to get our climb underway! We got our camp set up, we had a nice dinner, all moved into our personal tents. It’s raining hard, but thankfully we have our Mountain Hardwear Space Station dining tent set up where we’re staying dry inside and we have our Mountain Hardwear Trango 4 personal tents staying dry, so that’s good, warm and dry! The rain should let up tonight, so we’re going to go for the summit early tomorrow morning and hopefully summit sometime after sunrise. Then make it back here to camp and then see when we can get back down!

But, everyone’s doing great! We’re excited to finally be up here after a nearly one week delay due to political conditions in Timika between the national park and the military, the police, the tribe, and the local entities. There’s a lot of different stakeholders and factors that can contribute to tricky politics here. But it all worked out, so we’re very happy to be here and can’t wait to climb tomorrow! Hopefully we’ll have a good summit day.

We’ll check in soon. Thanks!

Our Mountain Hardwear Trango 4 tents in the Yellow Valley Base Camp!

Our Mountain Hardwear Trango 4 tents in the Yellow Valley Base Camp!

Technical skills review in Timika!

Technical skills review in Timika!

Team dinner while we wait to fly to our base camp!

Team dinner while we wait to fly to our base camp!


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

The team together with Carstensz Pyramid in the background!

We are thrilled to have been back on Carstensz Pyramid after a five-year hiatus due to the mountains closure! The Madison Mountaineering Carstensz Pyramid expedition team successfully reached the summit on October 27th at 9:00 AM local time with all members reaching the top. It was the perfect way to return to the mountain and we look forward to coming back again this February! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from Carstensz Pyramid:

Hello! This is Garrett checking in for the Madison Mountaineering Carstensz Pyramid (4884m/16,024ft) expedition team. We are back in Timika on the island of Papua, Western Papua New Guinea after a great Carstensz Pyramid expedition! Our team flew up from Timika to the Yellow Valley base camp on Carstensz Pyramid October 26th. The weather was good, so the next day we departed base camp around 3:00 AM and climbed up to the summit reaching the top around 8:30 – 9:00 AM. Beautiful day, we spent some time up there celebrating, taking a few photos, and congratulating one of our climbers who finished the last of his 7 summits, and then descended back down to base camp.

The following day it rained and there were no helicopter flights, so we waited until the 29th. It was a beautiful day and we were able to helicopter back down to Timika and we’re looking forward to catching our flights back to Bali later today and relaxing a few days in Bali before heading on home.

It was a wonderful expedition, 100% success! Madison Mountaineering is happy to be back on Carstensz Pyramid after a five-year hiatus during the mountains closure. We look forward to returning again with some of our climbers in February!

Signing off for Carstensz Pyramid.

The team on the summit of Carstensz Pyramid!

The team on the summit of Carstensz Pyramid!

Expedition leader, Garrett and climber, Laura during the climb.

Expedition leader, Garrett and climber, Laura during the climb.

Descending back down the mountain.

Descending back down the mountain.


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

We’ve just concluded our journey to the least climbed of the Seven SummitsCarstensz Pyramid located on the island of Papua New Guinea.  About a week ago our team assembled in Bali and completed our equipment checks.  Then we flew to the easternmost province of Indonesia, Papua.  We waited in the frontier town of Timika for the weather to clear so that we could fly by helicopter over the jungle to the Yellow Valley base camp nearby Carstensz Pyramid.

We were delayed by one day in Timika as frequent the rain and thunderstorms passed by.  Then on the clear morning of October 16th we flew to base camp at 4,242 meters (14,000 ft).  From there we went on an acclimatization hike around the valley.  After lunch, we decided to climb partway up the route on Carstensz Pyramid, so that we could familiarize ourselves with the climbing.  At dinner, we discussed our climbing strategy for the following day and went to bed anticipating the climb ahead!

We awoke at 4 AM and had breakfast at 4:30 AM, then departed camp at 5 AM for our ascent of Carstensz Pyramid. As we ascended the first pitches of rock the sun rose and we turned off our headlamps. Much of the route is climbing on 5th class rock up cracks, gulleys, and rock faces until reaching the ridgeline.  By 9 AM we reached the cable crossing, an airy section where a large gap in the ridge exists.  Climbers cross by walking along a 40 ft. cable.  After that, we continued along the ridge until reaching a ‘step across’ where we hopped from one rock to the next.  We then ascended the final slopes to the summit at 4,884 meters (16,117 ft).  At the top, we congratulated each other and took a few team photos, then began our descent.

We rappelled much of the route and reached base camp at 3:30 PM.  That evening we celebrated our success on Carstensz Pyramid.  For one of our climbers, Gary Nelson, this was the successful completion of his Seven Summits quest.  Gary and I climbed Mount Everest together back in 2011, so this was a special way for me to be part of his last of the Seven Summits.  A few of the other climbers on the team are nearing completion of their Seven Summits as well, likely to finish in the coming months!

The following morning the weather cleared and the helicopter was able to fly to base camp and take out three of our climbers, however, that was the only flight for the day.  The two remaining climbers and I waited until the following day to fly out.  As we lifted off from base camp and exited the Yellow Valley we approached a thick field of clouds and fog, the pilots had to maneuver around the sky to find their way down to Timika. We were lucky as only one flight was able to get in!  The weather in Papua New Guinea is often rainy and cloudy, sometimes groups have been delayed as many as 10 days waiting for the clouds and rain to let up so that they can fly out, we were lucky!

After arriving in Timika we went to our hotel and had breakfast, showered and changed, and then went to the airport to catch our flight to Bali.  We have arrived in Bali and are reunited with our other climbers that were able to fly out a day before us.  Tonight we are celebrating our climb and planning to take a surf lesson in the morning before saying goodbye!