Tag: acclimatization

Beautiful views in the Andes as our climbers set off for the Ecuador volcanoes! Our team will spend the first few days acclimating on local peaks close to Quito in preparation for Cayambe at an elevation of 18,996 feet. For a detailed overview of this exciting climb please visit our page here.

To the top!

.

20161105_083356-1

.

William celebrating his first summit of Pasochoa. This extinct volcano is located in the Guayllabamba river basin in the Ecuadorian Andes.

DCIM100GOPROGOPR0144.JPG

1

Now passing the remote Askole settlement at the foothills of the Karakoram wilderness, our K2 team is in good condition and excited for the adventure ahead. Our Madison Mountaineering K2 International Expedition has five climbers for K2 plus 2 guides, 1 camera man and 1 base camp chef, and we are traveling with and sharing some resources with another K2 Expedition led by Kari Kobler from Switzerland. The two expeditions combined have sent in an advance group of about 300 Pakistani porters and about 100 horses to carry equipment and supplies. In addition to the advanced group of porters and horses, both expeditions combined also have an additional 300 Pakistani porters and more than 100 horses traveling into K2 Base Camp with the climbers. There are just under 100 permits issued for western climbers and supporting Nepalese Sherpa’s for 2016 for the four 8,000 metre peaks in the Karakoram region that include K2, Broad Peak and Gashaburm 1 and 2. There is only about 45 climbing permits for K2 for 2016.

We are excited to be connecting climbers scaling the worlds highest peaks to physicians, researchers, emergency teams, friends and family in near real-time using the first and only fully integrated remote physiological monitoring platform capable of doing so this season on K2. As a part of this ascent, this project represents the collaboration of three leaders in wireless technology and communications – WiCis-Sports, Thuraya, and OCENS, – to stream vital sign and location data within seconds to any internet-enabled device anywhere in the world. With the goal of advancing the availability of scalable, continuous monitoring for those participating in extreme outdoor adventure sports, this project goes well beyond to keep explorers everywhere well within reach.

Thank you Stuart for the photos and update!

.

K2 Hotel in Skardu

IMG_3394

.

Getting ready to leave the K2 hotel

IMG_3395

.

Driving from Skardu to Askole

IMG_3396

.

Our team had 15 Toyota Landcruisers full of people and supplies. Trucks went ahead with other supplies. One of the rivers had a fairly good mudslide causing our trucks to get stuck

IMG_3398

.

One of the many bridges on the drive from Skardu to Askole

IMG_3401

.

A cooked chapatti

IMG_3402

.

The drive 130 km from Skardu to Askole took about nine hours

IMG_3410 2

.

A Toyota Landcruiser overheated and needed water after each steam

IMG_3413

.

Drive in from Skardu to Askole was very narrow and steep in many parts

IMG_3415 2

.

The trek in to K2

IMG_3417 2

.

Preparing dough for chapattis

IMG_3422 2

.

Cooking chapatti

IMG_3423 2

0

After departing Camp 2 at around 5am this morning, members of our climbing team wrapped up a successful second rotation and returned to base camp. The team had a positive experience up on the mountain and as you can see below enjoyed spectacular views along the way (more pictures to come!). The weather was cold and windy at night and heated up considerably during the day while climbing. Billy, Joel and Jim are spending an additional acclimatization night at Camp 2 with Brent and will be coming back down to base camp tomorrow. The team is in good health and we all look forward to a week of R&R before our last rotation.

The many teams at base camp from around the world are working together now to fix the ropes up through Camp 4, we expect this to happen tomorrow. At this point we will be able to begin to put in place the gear and oxygen necessary for our summit rotation. Michael Fagin, our meteorologist based in Seattle, will soon be reporting to us the weather window for summit day. Our team has been training for months in preparation for the days to come, we are all very excited to begin the ascent to the top of of the world. Stay tuned!

.

Screen Shot 2016-05-04 at 10.03.58 PM

.

Screen Shot 2016-05-04 at 10.04.09 PM

.

Camp Two viewed from Camp Three

Screen Shot 2016-05-04 at 10.04.19 PM

.

Camp Two

Screen Shot 2016-05-04 at 10.04.30 PM

.

Madison Mountaineering 2016 Everest Team

Screen Shot 2016-05-04 at 10.04.52 PM

.

On the ascent toward Camp Three

Screen Shot 2016-05-04 at 10.05.06 PM

Spending a second night at Camp 2, our climbers acclimatize and continue to move higher up the mountain. Over the past two days our team has enjoyed the comfort of our advanced base camp with hot meals and beautiful views. From base camp we watched many helicopters make rounds to Camp 1 yesterday, carrying loads dangling beneath filled with fixed ropes for higher on Everest. In years past Sherpa had carried the fixed ropes through the Khumbu Icefall. Tomorrow if the weather allows our team will descend the mountain and arrive back at Base Camp. Strong winds have been ripping across base camp at night which makes for a exciting night in the tent.

Once back at base camp our team will rest for 4-5 days before making their second rotation toward Camp 3 at 7,200, (23,635ft).

IMG_5139

.

IMG_5144

.

IMG_5148

.

IMG_5149

.

IMG_5151

.

IMG_5157

After successfully making it through the Khumbu Icefall yesterday our team has enjoyed a rest at Camp One. Today our lead guides, (Garrett, Conan, and Billy) made a nice breakfast for the team before taking off on a day hike to continue to acclimatize. Everyone is in good health and ready to continue the journey up Mt. Everest tomorrow. With weather conditions stable our team will climb 3-5 hours to reach Camp Two at 6,400m (21,000ft) tomorrow. Spending a couple nights at Camp Two our team will complete their first acclimatization rotation and return to base camp to rest. The views are spectacular and we will have photos up of Camp Two tomorrow!

.

Madison Mountaineering Camp One

Screen Shot 2016-04-21 at 10.01.44 PM

Early this morning our climbers departed from base camp and successfully navigated through the Khumbu Icefall to reach Everest Camp One. Crossing the many crevasse’s with ladders fixed together and steep fixed lines our climbers worked as a team to overcome the obstacles and reach the safety of our tents above the icefall. Our weather reports in the weeks to come will be from our good friend Micheal Fagin with Everest Weather. Michael will be providing tailored weather analytics that provide the most up to date and accurate assessments, allowing our team to make data driven decisions closer to summit day. Right now we are not seeing any storms that may move out of the Bay of Bengal with light precipitation on Mount Everest over the next few days.

Tomorrow our team will go on a 2-3 hour day hike and return to Camp One in the evening. All members are doing well and I’m sure will have a good night sleep after their ascent through the Khumbu Icefall. Below is a shot of Madison Mountaineering Camp One!

.

Screen Shot 2016-04-20 at 7.39.52 PM

Today was our third day training on the edge of the Khumbu Icefall, with our climbing team gearing up for their first rotation to Camp 1 early this coming week. On the course today we had multiple ladder crossings and fixed rope circuits that continued to challenge the team and allowed each climber to grow stronger. Tomorrow we will rest up and go for a short hike around base camp. All of the climbing team’s in base camp are taking the day off from climbing in the icefall tomorrow in remembrance of the 2014 icefall avalanche.

The weather has been beautiful in the mornings with snow clouds rolling in early afternoon and  throughout the evening. All members of the team are in good health and are excited to begin the next stage of their journey. Our meals are plentiful and delicious, we are all convinced that we will be gaining weight on this expedition.

Screen Shot 2016-04-17 at 9.57.30 PM

.

Screen Shot 2016-04-17 at 9.57.41 PM

.

Screen Shot 2016-04-17 at 9.57.53 PM

.

Screen Shot 2016-04-17 at 9.59.06 PM

.

Screen Shot 2016-04-17 at 9.58.05 PM

.

Screen Shot 2016-04-17 at 9.58.16 PM

.

Screen Shot 2016-04-17 at 9.58.27 PM

.

Screen Shot 2016-04-17 at 9.58.39 PM

.

Screen Shot 2016-04-17 at 9.58.52 PM

.

Screen Shot 2016-04-17 at 9.59.24 PM

.

Screen Shot 2016-04-17 at 9.59.36 PM

Jeff, José, and I have made a safe and successful ascent of Cayambe volcano! After we finished our acclimatization hikes near Quito we departed for Cayambe hut at an elevation of 15,250 feet. After a hour of driving from Hacienda Guachala we took our expedition vehicle across rocky and steep terrain toward Cayambe. The hut was beautifully located and provided spectacular views of the mountain. After three days of glacier training we prepared our gear and left at 11pm for the summit. After 7 hours of climbing we made it over the last crevasse and to the top on a crystal clear day just as the sun came up over the horizon. We were the first climbing team to reach the summit 🙂 We had an amazing adventure and thank our guide José Luis for his expert guidance and support! I will be posting additional photos from our expedition to the Madison Mountaineering Facebook page!

Onward!

-Andrew Tierney

Photos taken below by Andrew Tierney using a GoPro Hero 4 Black and iPhone 6. Enjoy! 🙂

.

Dinner at Hacienda Guachala. The Hacienda Guachalá is known as the oldest hacienda in Ecuador, and the most important hacienda until the middle of the 20th century. The oldest buildings date from the year 1580!

thumb_IMG_1770_1024

.

Breakfast with a view at Hacienda Guachala.

thumb_IMG_1775_1024

.

Middle of the World!

thumb_IMG_1785_1024.

.

Happy Birthday Jeff! 🙂 Mountain Birthday’s are the best!

DCIM100GOPROGOPR7575.

.

Jeff with Cayambe in the background!

thumb_IMG_1805_1024

Glacier training on Cayambe.

DCIM100GOPROGOPR7727.

.

Ladder training in preparation for Jeff’s upcoming Everest ascent!

DCIM100GOPROGOPR7765.

.

Andrew enjoying the fixed ropes and ladders on Cayambe!

DCIM100GOPROGOPR7774.

.

Jeff preparing to cross the ladder.

DCIM100GOPROGOPR7777.

.

Andrew on the summit of Cayambe!

DCIM100GOPROGOPR7852.

.

Jeff on the summit of Cayambe! Rise & Shine!

DCIM100GOPROGOPR7807.

.

Spectacular sunrise across Ecuador!

DCIM100GOPROGOPR7828.

.

Cayambe Hut

DCIM100GOPROGOPR7793.

.

Cayambe Volcano

thumb_IMG_2045_1024

.

Last sunset before we made our ascent!

thumb_IMG_2024_1024

Yesterday Jeff, José, and I summited Pichincha in record time and enjoyed panoramic views of Cayambe, Cotopaxi (active), and many other notorious mountains across Ecuador. Once we reached the summit at 15,700 feet we had lunch and continued to acclimate as we prepare for the journey to Cayambe hut today. After our climb we checked out of our hotel in Quito and drove a short distance to Hacienda Guachala, a famous establishment that dates back to 1580! As we fell asleep we enjoyed a warm fire in our room and woke up to the smell of freshly brewed coffee on our patio. Today we will journey to the Cayambe hut and begin to review the technical skills that we will need for the climb. Service will become harder to find but I will try and update the blog as soon as I am able. Onward!

-Andrew

 

Photos taken below by Andrew Tierney

.

Bouldering across a rock field as we make our way up Pichincha.

DCIM100GOPROGOPR7493.

.

Jeff and José Luis climbing up the last few steps of Pichincha!

DCIM100GOPROGOPR7509.

.

Jeff and Andrew at the summit of Pichincha (15,700 feet).

DCIM100GOPROGOPR7520.

.

Beautiful views looking over the city of Quito from Pichincha!

DCIM100GOPROGOPR7544.

Today Jeff Glasbrenner and I explored the rolling country side and completed acclimatization hikes near Quito. We cruised to the top of Pasochoa at 13,860 ft and bagged another nearby summit as well. After a day of hiking we explored the beautiful city of Quito where we saw the historic sites and had an authentic Ecuadorian dinner in town. Tomorrow we will continue to acclimate to the altitude with our amazing guide, José Luis, and climb Pinchincha at 15,700 ft. The weather is beautiful and our team is very excited to begin our journey to Cayambe in the days to come.

To the top!

-Andrew Tierney

.

Photos taken using DJI Phantom 3 Professional drone and GoPro Hero4. Enjoy!

.

Virgin of El Panecillo overlooking the city of Quito

DCIM100MEDIADJI_0066.JPG

.

Church of San Francisco

DCIM100MEDIADJI_0072.JPG

.

One of my favorite shots looking over the city of Quito!

DCIM100MEDIADJI_0080.JPG

.

Basílica del Voto Nacional – Quito

DCIM100MEDIADJI_0099.JPG

.

Rolling layers of fog made for a beautiful picture here from the summit of Pasochoa (13,860′).

FullSizeRender-1.jpg

.

Jeff and I taking our first summit photo! More to come!!

FullSizeRender-2.jpg

.

Our adventure rig for the week!

FullSizeRender.jpg

.

Climbing down from Pasochoa over the rolling hills outside of Quito

DCIM100GOPROGOPR7432.

.

Palace in the Plaza Grande

IMG_1704.JPG

.

Church of La Compañía de Jesús

IMG_1710.JPG

Translate »