Another perfect season on Carstensz Pyramid!

Summit photo atop Carstensz Pyramid!

The Madison Mountaineering Carstensz Pyramid expedition team wrapped up another successful climb on Oceania’s highest peak over the weekend with 100% summit success! This marks the end of another perfect season with all of our climbers topping out. The team moved swiftly and efficiently while climbing the route, making good time to the top and being rewarded with excellent views upon reaching the summit! Now the team is all off of the mountain and making their way home safe and sound. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from Carstensz Pyramid:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Carstensz Peak (4884m/16,024ft) expedition – today is November 15th.

Today we left base camp on our summit push at about 2:45 a.m. and we stepped onto the summit of Carstensz Peak just a little over four hours later! We had a great climb. As we left base camp, there was some stars in the sky, but some fog came in as we approached the first and second terraces – the big ledges on the way up the route, the Heinrich Harrer route, which is the normal route here on Carstensz Pyramid. And then, as we got to the summit ridge, it was just overcast, cloudy skies. But as we stepped onto the summit, the sun came out and gave us some great views of the highlands around us, really magnificent limestone landscape. And over toward the Freeport Mine, which is an amazing feature of a Carstensz Pyramid climb – one of the largest open pit gold mines in the world, just a couple of miles from the summit of Carstensz Pyramid. We could also see down into the lush forests of New Guinea.

We came back down to base camp, had a good lunch, and now we’re relaxing before dinner. We’re hoping to fly out tomorrow, weather permitting, and then continue our way back to Bali.

So, yeah, it was a great, great climb, 100% success, really successful, wonderful day here on Carstensz Pyramid! We’ll be in touch tomorrow.

Summit photo atop Carstensz Pyramid!

Summit photo atop Carstensz Pyramid!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

/0 Comments/by

At the Yellow Valley Base Camp!

Our climber, Bob, approaching the first terrace (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Hello, from Carstensz Pyramid! The Madison Mountaineering team has arrived at the foot of the peak, settled into their camp for the night, and eyes a potential summit push as soon as tomorrow! After arriving in Timika a few days ago, the team called off one helicopter flight to camp due to cloudy weather, but made the most of their time by taking a boat trip down the river to a nomadic fishing community. Their patience paid off as the flight up to their base camp today was perfect! After arriving in camp and getting on the lower sections of the route, the team is fueling up and off to bed, prepared to wake up early tomorrow and go for the summit if weather allows. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from Carstensz Pyramid:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Carstensz Pyramid (4884m/16,024ft) expedition – today is November 14.

Today, we flew to Yellow Valley Base Camp (4285m/14,050ft) at the foot of Carstensz Pyramid! We left our hotel about 5 a.m, headed to the airport. Skies were clear! So, two heli trips took the entire team up here to base camp. It’s really nice for all of us to be here together in one go! And we had a beautiful, scenic flight in. Really nice views of the Sudirman Range and our pilot took us right in over the massive open pit of the Freeport Mine, so we had really spectacular views of the mine itself – one of the largest gold mines in the world!

After we landed, we went for an acclimatization hike up the lower portion of the route, and went to the first ledge – to the first major ledge of the terrace system on the climbing route, then descended back to base camp as the rain was starting for the day. (We) just had lunch and now we’re relaxing until dinner. We will try for the summit tomorrow morning if the weather is good enough when we wake up.

Yeah, it’s been a really good trip so far! We arrived in Timika (31m/103ft) two nights ago. Yesterday, we tried to fly to base camp, but it was too cloudy. So instead, we went down to the river delta south of Timika and took a riverboat down to the edge of the Arafura Sea to visit a community of nomadic fishing people there. That was really spectacular, really beautiful on the river! We had a lot of fun at the village, saw a dugout canoe being being carved out.

And then, yeah, woke up and flew to base camp this morning. So the team is doing really well, and we’ll be in touch tomorrow!

Flying into the Sudirman Range (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Flying into the Sudirman Range (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Our climbers, Raj and Louis, relaxing on the First Terrace, partway up the standard Heinrich Harrer route on Carstensz Pyramid (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Our climbers, Raj and Louis, relaxing on the First Terrace, partway up the standard Heinrich Harrer route on Carstensz Pyramid (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Our climbers, Bob and Chuck, preparing to fly to base camp.

Our climbers, Bob and Chuck, preparing to fly to base camp.

Guide Terray Sylvester with our guests Bob and Chuck near the Arafura Sea.

Guide Terray Sylvester with our guests Bob and Chuck near the Arafura Sea.

With kids in Amamapare Village

With kids in Amamapare Village

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

/0 Comments/by

Another Carstensz Pyramid team has arrived in Bali!

The team together in Bali awaiting their flight to Timika.

Another Madison Mountaineering Carstensz Pyramid expedition team has gathered together in Bali! It’s been a leisurely start to the expedition relaxing and swimming in the sunshine at our beachfront hotel. Now the team is in Timika awaiting their helicopter flight to the Yellow Valley Base Camp! Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this inaugural dispatch from Bali:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for Madison Mountaineering Carstensz Pyramid (4884m/16,024ft) expedition – today is November 11th.

Late last night, our team arrived here in Bali. We spent last night and all of today relaxing in our beachfront hotel in Sanur (0m/oft.) It was a really nice day, sunny weather, went for swimming in the pool and went for some nice runs along the waterfront. And then an hour ago, we came to the domestic airport here in Denpasar (4m/13ft) and we’re about to board our flight to Timika (31m/103ft) over on the island of New Guinea in Indonesian province of West Papua.

So we’re excited to get this expedition underway! We’ll land in Timika and then wait for our helicopter flight up to Yellow Valley Base Camp at the foot of the highest peak in Oceania.

Everything’s going well so far, and we’ll be in touch tomorrow from New Guinea!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

/0 Comments/by

Cleanup expedition complete in the Khumbu!

Last team dinner in Kathmandu!

The Madison Mountaineering Gokyo Ri, Lobuche East and Island Peak environmental restoration expedition team has concluded their time in the Khumbu! After a beautiful trek out of the valley and one final celebratory dinner together, the team said their goodbyes and began the journey back to their home countries. It was a hugely successful trip to the Khumbu Valley made possible by an awesome team of climbers, Sherpa’s, porters and guides. The team put boots on the summit of both Lobuche East and Island Peak, as well as Gokyo Ri and removed around 76 kilos of trash while doing so! Awesome work to the team. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this closing dispatch from this post-monsoon season in Nepal:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Gokyo Ri, Lobuche East and Island Peak expedition – today is November 6th.

Today, we flew back from Luka (2860m/9,383ft) to Kathmandu (1400m/4,600ft). Over the last several days, we enjoyed a really beautiful hike back down the Khumbu Valley from Island Peak (6189m/20,305ft). The weather was excellent – clear blue skies and beautiful fall colors on the hillsides.

And then, yeah, since we’ve arrived back in Kathmandu, we’ve been getting sorted out, taking showers, getting repacked. We just finished up our final dinner at Le Sherpa restaurant here in Kathmandu. And then early tomorrow morning, our first guests will start to depart for their home countries.

So, all in all, it was a really great trip! Successful summits on the Lobuche East (6119m/20,075ft) and Island Peak, as well as Gokyo Ri (4750m, 15,583ft.) And we cleaned up a total of about 76 kilos of trash, which is a good amount! That was mostly from Gokyo Ri and Lobuche East. But then the heavy snow put a stop to our cleanup efforts for this trip. However, we will continue to look for cleanup opportunities this fall, and of course, in future climbing seasons.

So all is well here! It was an excellent expedition. And looking forward to coming back to Nepal in the future!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

/0 Comments/by

Summit success on Island Peak!

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archives.

It’s with great excitement that we share that the Madison Mountaineering environmental restoration expedition team successfully reached the summit of Island Peak! Despite lots of snow accumulation over the days prior, the team persevered and topped out under beautiful, blue skies and with great views of the surrounding Himalaya. The team descended safely and are now making their way down and out of the valley. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from the Khumbu:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Gokyo Ri, Lobuche East and Island Peak expedition – today is November 2nd.

Today was summit day on Island Peak (6189m/20,305ft). Our team summited successfully in beautiful weather! It was the first perfectly clear day after several days of snowy, stormy weather here in the Khumbu. And then, descended to Chukhung (4730m/15,520ft).

Tomorrow morning, we are looking forward to heading farther down the valley in what should be another beautiful day. Tomorrow morning we’ll go to Pangboche (3985m/13,074ft).

So all is well here and we’ll be in touch tomorrow!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

/0 Comments/by

Enjoying the comforts of Cafe 4410!

The team together earlier in the expedition (photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering environmental restoration team has descended down the valley to Dingboche after their successful climb on Lobuche East! The team welcomed the comforts of Cafe 4410 – a frequent stop of ours while trekking and climbing in the Everest region of Nepal! It’s been a productive rest day full of pastries, coffee, rest, and communications with friends and family back home. Tomorrow, the team continues on their way to Island Peak! Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from Nepal:

Hello, this is Terray calling in for the 2025 Madison Mountaineering Gokyo Ri, Lobuche East and Island Peak expedition – today is October 31st.

Today we’re taking a rest day in Dingboche (4410m/14,470ft). We arrived yesterday afternoon after a nice descent through beautiful, snowy weather from Lobuche East High Camp. Today we’ve just been enjoying showers, and catching up on emails and communications with home, and the great food and drink available at Cafe 4410 – one of our favorite places here in the Khumbu Valley!

Tomorrow we plan to move up to Island Peak Base Camp to prepare for our ascent of Island Peak (6189m/20,305ft).

The weather was snowy over the last three days, but actually today, the precipitation has been very light, and the forecast is looking good. We will be in touch tomorrow!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

/0 Comments/by

Environmental restoration expedition update: summits and cleanup!

Our climbers Rick, Marco, Karl and Bill leaving the summit of Lobuche East with climbing Sherpas Aang Phurba Sherpa and Kam Dorji Sherpa (photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering environmental restoration team has been hard at work in the Everest region of Nepal! The team summited Gokyo Ri and began their cleanup initiative, collecting about 16 kilos of waste from Gokyo Ri before moving to Lobuche East High Camp and collecting an additional 61 kilos of trash. Following the cleanup efforts, the team set out to climb Lobuche East, landing all boots on the summit today despite challenging weather conditions, including steady snowfall, limited visibility, and wind. Now safely back in camp, the team plans to rest and descend back down the valley tomorrow. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from Nepal:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Gokyo Ri, Lobuche East and Island Peak environmental restoration expedition – today is October 29th.

Today was a great day! We had an excellent summit on Lobuche East (6119m/20,075ft), 100% success! Conditions were a little bit challenging. Yesterday, it began to snow, and the snow continued falling steadily all day today. But, I’m really proud of our team. They did a great job pushing through abnormal conditions on this peak. The visibility wasn’t that great, and it was a little windy on the summit, and the footing was a little tough occasionally because of the new soft snow. But, conditions were safe for climbing and the team did a really great job with everybody touching the summit this morning at about 11 a.m. And then, we made it back down here to base camp, and we’re relaxing. We’ll stay another night here in base camp before descending down to the village of Dingboche (4410m/14,470ft) tomorrow.

We’ve had a great few days here in Nepal actually! Several days ago, we summited Gokyo Ri (4750m/15,583ft), and we started our clean up effort, picking up about 16 kilos of waste from the summit of Gokyo Ri. We’ve also conducted a cleanup here at Lobuche East High Camp. Fortunately, we got that started before the snow fell. We’ve picked up a total of about 61 kilos of waste here at Lobuche East. Now, unfortunately, there’s a lot of snow on the ground, so picking up waste is a little tougher, but we’ll still look for fixed lines and other trash in the days to come – old fixed lines I should say.

So all is well here in Nepal! We’ll be in touch tomorrow.

Our climber Steve with Tendi Sherpa and Guide Terray Sylvester on the summit of Lobuche East (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Our climber Steve with Tendi Sherpa and Guide Terray Sylvester on the summit of Lobuche East (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Guide and Sirdar Aang Phurba Sherpa with the 61kg / 134lbs of waste our team has collected from near Lobuche East High Camp (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Guide and Sirdar Aang Phurba Sherpa with the 61kg / 134lbs of waste our team has collected from near Lobuche East High Camp (photo by Terray Sylvester)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

/0 Comments/by

Successful summits of Carstensz Pyramid on three straight days!

The final Madison Mountaineering team on the summit of Carstensz Pyramid!

Back to back to back! The Madison Mountaineering Carstensz Pyramid expedition team successfully reached the summit on three straight days. Each member of the team topped out on the highest peak in Oceania, one of the famed seven summits! Challenging logistics caused the team to have to climb on different occasions, but couldn’t stop them from having a great time, reaching the summit, and coming home safely! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this final dispatch from Carstensz Pyramid:

Hello! This is Garrett checking in for the Madison Mountaineering Carstensz Pyramid (4884m/16,024ft) expedition.

Today is October 22nd and we have concluded our climbs. All six climbers made the summit, along with myself and some of our local guide friends. Over the course of three days, we climbed over three days because of the helicopter schedules and acclimatization, so three different summit days. Everyone made the summit between the three days! A special congrats to Art Muir, who became the oldest person to climb Carstensz Pyramid and finish the seven summits at age 79 and a half. Way to go Art!

So now we’re just waiting for helicopters here at Carstensz Pyramid Base Camp (4285m/14,050ft). Hopefully we’ll get to fly down to Timika (31m/103ft) soon and back to Bali and homeward bound. Fingers crossed!

The team back together in the Yellow Valley Base Camp.

The team back together in the Yellow Valley Base Camp.

Crossing the airy Tyrolean Traverse high on Carstensz.

Crossing the airy Tyrolean Traverse high on Carstensz.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

/0 Comments/by

Visiting Sagarmatha Next

The team on the way to the Everest View Hotel (photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering environmental restoration team had another great day while acclimatizing in and around Namche Bazaar! After enjoying a hearty breakfast at their tea house, the team hiked up to the Everest View Hotel for acclimatization, tea, and snacks. On the way back to their lodge, they stopped by Sagarmatha Next, one of our partners in removing waste from the region—ensuring it is either properly disposed of or transformed into art by the organization’s resident artists. Expedition Leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from Namche Bazaar:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Gokyo Ri, Lobuche East and Island Peak environmental restoration trek – today is October 22nd.

Today we had a nice breakfast here at the Panorama Lodge where we’re staying in Namche Bazaar (3440m/11,290ft), and then we hiked up to the Everest View Hotel. It was another beautiful morning here in the Khumbu Valley! And so this morning we had our first clear views of the Everest (8848m/29,032ft) and Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) Massif. Everest itself was partly obscured by a lenticular cloud, but really nice views of Lhotse and Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft), as well as Ama Dablam (6812m/22,349ft) and Cholatse (6440m/21,130ft), and Taboche (6495m/21,309ft), plus other peaks around the Khumbu Valley.

And then after the Everest View Hotel, we walked over to Sagarmatha Next. Sagarmatha Next is an NGO that raises awareness around waste management issues here in the Khumbu. Since this is an environmental restoration trek, we’ll be partnering with them, yet again, for the third time on this itinerary. We plan to pick up trash at Lobuche East (6119m/20,075ft) and Island Peak (6189m/20,305ft), and perhaps other locations around the Khumbu. Then, if we find any clean mountaineering equipment, such as old ropes or crampons, or other items, we’ll send those over to Sagarmatha Next, where it will be turned into art by their resident artists. So it’s great to partner with them again!

We headed back down to the Panorama Inn for lunch and we rested the rest of the evening. We’re looking forward to trekking to Dole (4038m/13,248ft) tomorrow! We’ll be in touch.

Visiting Sagarmatha Next, and one of its founders, Tommy Gustafsson (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Visiting Sagarmatha Next, and one of its founders, Tommy Gustafsson (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Our climber Steve McConnell at Sagarmatha Next (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Our climber Steve McConnell at Sagarmatha Next (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Beautiful views above Namche Bazaar (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Beautiful views above Namche Bazaar (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Ama Dablam towers high above the valley (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Ama Dablam towers high above the valley (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Our climber Rick Irvine enjoying the beautiful fall weather (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Our climber Rick Irvine enjoying the beautiful fall weather (photo by Terray Sylvester)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

/0 Comments/by

Beautiful trekking so far in Nepal!

Starting the trek in Luka!

The Madison Mountaineering environmental restoration expedition team is checked into their lodge in Namche Bazaar! Namche serves as the main hub in the Khumbu region of Nepal and is an exciting place for trekkers and climbers alike to spend time acclimatizing, visiting cafes, and taking in the views as they move higher up the valley. The weather has been excellent so far and team spirits are high! Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from Namche:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Gokyo Ri, Lobuche East, and Island Peak environmental restoration expedition – today is October 21st.

We’ve had a couple great couple of days here in Nepal! Yesterday, we flew from Kathmandu (1400m/4,600ft) to Lukla (2860m/9,383ft) via heli. We had some of the clearest skies that I’ve enjoyed during any heli flight into the mountains. Excellent views of Everest (8848m/29,032ft) straight ahead of us as we approached Lukla. Then we hiked on down to Phakding (2610m/8,562ft).

This morning, we hiked from Phakding to Namche (3440m/11,290ft) again under clear, blue skies and warm, sunny temps. Now, we’re getting ready for dinner here at the Panorama Lodge in Namche Bazaar. It’s a clear night, and there’s lots of fresh snow on the mountains. So, it’s really pretty here in Nepal right now.

Everything’s going well so far, and we will be in touch tomorrow!

Getting ready to board the heli in Kathmandu!

Getting ready to board the heli in Kathmandu!

Approaching Namche Bazaar

Approaching Namche Bazaar

Warm welcome at our lodge in Namche!

Warm welcome at our lodge in Namche!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

/0 Comments/by