Tucked in at Camp 2

Climbing through the icefall in the early morning hours of May 17.

The Madison Mountaineering Everest–Lhotse expedition team climbed through the Khumbu Icefall in the early morning hours of May 17 on their way to Camp 2, marking the start of their summit rotation. With no crowds and good conditions, the team moved swiftly through the complicated terrain of the icefall and reached Camp 2 in good time. Now, the team plans to take a rest day before moving up to higher camps! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from Camp 2:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft) expedition, we are up here at Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft).

We had a great climb from base camp (5364m/17,598ft) up through the Khumbu Icefall early this morning, we left at 1:00 AM and got up to Camp 2 about mid-day. It wasn’t crowded at all, good conditions, nice and cool for a good part of the day, then the sun came out in the afternoon.

But the team’s all settled in here at Camp 2. We’re having dinner and we’re excited for our rest day tomorrow! Beautiful conditions up here on Everest! Fingers crossed we’ll get to move up in a couple days time to push higher to Camp 3 (7230m/23,720ft) and Camp 4 (7900m/25,919ft) on our summit rotation.

All is well! We’ll check in soon.

Headlamps piercing the darkness and illuminating the route ahead.

Headlamps piercing the darkness and illuminating the route ahead.

Starting up through the Khumbu Icefall!

Starting up through the Khumbu Icefall!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Summit rotation about to start!

The team together during the first rotation on Mount Everest.

The Madison Mountaineering Everest and Lhotse expedition team are about to begin their summit rotation! Under the cover of darkness, the team will emerge from their base camp tents, strap on their crampons, dawn their packs, and set out for higher places. They’ll first climb through the Khumbu Icefall and up to Camp 2, before taking a rest day and then moving higher up the mountain. Let’s do this! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from Everest Base Camp:

Hello! This is Garrett checking in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft) expedition team.

We are heading out early this morning on May 17th from base camp (5364m/17,598ft) to climb up to Camp 2, starting off on our summit rotation! Our plan is to head up to Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft), take a rest day, and then if all is looking good, we’ll head up the Lhotse Face towards Camp 3 (7230m/23,720ft), Camp 4 (7900m/25,919ft), and eventually the summit.

The team’s doing well, everyone’s feeling healthy and strong, very excited, all packed up and prepared, and ready to go! So, we’re looking forward to what lies ahead and we’ll check in soon.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Prepping for the summit rotation!

The team together on an acclimatization hike above Everest Base Camp with Everest, Lhotse, and Nuptse behind.

The Madison Mountaineering team is hard at work getting ready for their push to the summit! They are planning to set off from Everest Base Camp in a few days time, heading for higher camps and with their sights set on the top of the world. The team is dialing everything in now, from their oxygen systems to their climbing kits. It won’t be long until they are on their way! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from Everest Base Camp:

Hello! This is Garrett checking in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft) expedition team – today is Thursday, May 15, we’re in Everest Base Camp (5364m/17,598ft).

All of our members have come back from their rest down valley in Namche (3440m/11,290ft) and beyond. Everyone’s doing great here in base camp! We went for an acclimatization hike today up to Pumori Base Camp and had wonderful views looking back over at Everest, Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft), and Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft). So, we’re just going through all of our oxygen systems now and plan for the next rotation while we press for the summit! We’re planning to leave in a couple of days and head up, maybe target around the 22nd of May.

So, all is well here in base camp! We’ll check in soon.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Back in base camp after the summit!

The team on the summit! (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Makalu expedition team has safely returned to their base camp after topping out on the world’s fifth-highest peak! Just in time for dinner, the team descended into their camp, concluding another chapter of this challenging expedition. The team climbed under the moon and stars from Camp 3, gaining Makalu’s summit ridge as the sunrise began to light-up the surrounding peaks – a welcome sight after climbing in the dark for so long! With Alex in our hearts, our team stepped onto the summit and embraced, taking in the moment as this dream was realized before turning back and heading down. We’re so proud of this team! Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from Makalu Base Camp:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Makalu (8463m/27,766ft) expedition – today is May the 12th. It’s a beautiful morning here in base camp, sunny and warm, and we are relaxing after our successful summit yesterday morning! We stood on top of the fifth-highest peak on the planet yesterday, about 6:00 AM.

It was a great summit day! We left Camp 3 at about 9:30 PM on May 10th, climbed through the night under a mostly full moon and arrived on Makalu’s summit ridge just before sunrise, which meant we got to watch as the morning sun illuminated the Kangshung Face of Everest (8848m/29,032ft) and Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft), right next door. We could see headlamps of climbers way up on Everest on the southeast ridge, just below the summit. So yeah, it was a really great summit day and then we descended all the way back down to base camp yesterday evening and arrived in time for dinner at our normal time, 6:00.

It was a great climb and I think the best possible way to wrap up what has been a really difficult time here at Makalu for the whole Madison Mountaineering team after our teammate and friend, Alex Pancoe passed away so suddenly at Camp 2 during our acclimatization rotation. That event just left us all reeling, but we talked it over and it was clear to us that Alex brought, he brought so much stoke to the mountains. He loved being here so much and we were sure that he would have wanted us to keep climbing. So, on the 8th, we realized that we had just enough time to get to the summit in good weather before jet stream winds returned to the top of the mountain, so we went for it.

We will spend the rest of today packing up, wrapping up the expedition and then we are going to start making our way back down to lower elevations! We’ll be in touch.

Morning light on Lhotse and Everest (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Morning light on Lhotse and Everest (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Final steps to Makalu's summit ridge (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Final steps to Makalu’s summit ridge (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Traversing Makalu's summit ridge (photo by Terray Sylvester)

Traversing Makalu’s summit ridge (photo by Terray Sylvester)

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Makalu Summit Success!

Our team climbing above base camp earlier in the expedition (photo by Terray Sylvester)

The morning of May 11th brought uplifting news to our Everest–Lhotse expedition team: our Makalu team had successfully reached the summit! After a deeply emotional beginning to the journey with the loss of our dear teammate, Alex Pancoe, the entire team came together on the top, sharing heartfelt hugs and high-fives. We couldn’t be prouder of this incredible achievement — and we know Alex would be, too. As they awaited updates from the world’s fifth-highest peak, our Everest–Lhotse team rejoiced in the news, drawing inspiration as they prepare for their own summit rotation. Expedition leader Garrett Madison shares this latest dispatch from Everest Base Camp:

Hello! This is Garrett checking in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft) team and today is Sunday, May 11th in the morning here in Nepal.

We’ve got some good news to report – our Makalu (8463m/27,766ft) team led by Terray Sylvester, along with climbers Kristin and Aga, and five of our stellar Nepal Sherpas all summited Makalu today! They reported great weather conditions and had a wonderful summit. Now, they’re making their way down to Camp 3 and Camp 2.

So, we’re very happy for our Makalu team! It’s been a great end to their season, despite losing one of the team members, Alex Pancoe, to a likely cardiac arrest in Camp 2 earlier in the season. So, wonderful conclusion to the Makalu expedition!

The Everest team here, most of us are down in Namche (3440m/11,290ft) actually resting and recuperating, getting ready for the final summit rotation. A couple members are up here in base camp (5364m/17,598ft) hanging out with myself and guides, Conan and Cacho, Aang Phurba’s up at Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft) managing the Sherpa team at the moment.

So, all is well here on Mount Everest! We’re just watching the forecast and the rope fixing is in, so waiting for the winds to drop a bit and our members to be 100% before we embark on our final summit push!

So, all is well here in Nepal on Everest! We’ll check in soon.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Makalu Camp 3

The team together earlier in the expedition with Makalu behind (photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Makalu expedition team has ascended to Camp 3 and is now setting their sights on the summit. After a successful day of climbing, the team is settled into their sleeping bags, ready and in position for the final push. The day began with breathtaking views of Everest and Lhotse nearby, and the climbers moved efficiently and powerfully through mixed terrain of snow, rock, and ice. With a favorable weather window, they’re fully prepared to make their summit bid. Expedition leader Terray Sylvester shares this update from Makalu:

Hello from Camp 3 (7,480m / 24,540′). This morning we made good time here over the varied terrain (golden granite, snow, occasional ice) that leads to this camp located just on the far side of the Makalu La. The whole team is moving with strength and determination. I’m super proud of our climbers and sherpa staff. Clear skies this morning afforded us excellent views of Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) and Everest (8848m/29,032ft) and the South Col (7900m/25,919ft) between them, seemingly just a stone’s throw away. Now the afternoon convective pattern that has prevailed lately has wrapped us in clouds. We plan to relax for the rest of the evening before potentially starting our final summit push. We’ll be in touch tomorrow.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Makalu team on the move!

The team together in base camp earlier in the expedition (photo by Terray Sylvester)

If Alex could talk to us, he would tell us to keep climbing. After much deliberation, the Madison Mountaineering Makalu expedition team is on the move, making their summit push in Alex’s honor. The team climbed from their base camp to Camp 2 today, moving strongly and efficiently up the route. Now crawling into their tents for the night, the team looks forward to climbing higher up the mountain tomorrow! Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from Makalu:

Hello from Camp 2. This is Terray checking in via Inreach. The first day of our summit push went well as we made good time up 900 meters from Base Camp to Camp 2. We’re taking it one day, one step at a time, but looking forward to climbing to Camp 3 on the Makalu La tomorrow. We’ll be in touch then.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Time to rest and recharge!

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archives (photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Everest–Lhotse expedition team is done with their acclimatization rotations on the mountain and look ahead to their summit push! After spending several days up at high-altitude building acclimatization, familiarizing themselves with the route, and putting their skills to the test, the team dropped back down to lower elevations where they’ll rest up and get ready for their final push up the mountain. This time, with eyes set on the summit! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from the Himalaya:

Hello! This is Garrett checking in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft) team.

We had a great rotation up at Camps 1 (6050m/19,849ft) and 2 (6500m/21,325ft), touched Camp 3 (7230m/23,720ft), made it back down to base camp (5364m/17,598ft) yesterday afternoon. (We’re) resting and relaxing, some of us are going to head down to Namche (3440m/11,290ft) for a little bit of an acclimatization drop to get some thick oxygenated air and recharge, get ready for our final summit rotation, which will start in about a weeks time from base camp.

So, all is well here! We’re just happy that everyone had a great rotation, got some high-altitude, some technical training up on the Lhotse Face. Time to rest and recharge now. Check in soon!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Climbing to Camp 3

The team together during their acclimatization rotation.

The Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest–Lhotse expedition team touched Camp 3 today before descending back down to Camp 2, where they are turning in for the night after a great day high on Mount Everest. There were perfect conditions today, good company, and enjoyable climbing. The team plans to descend back down to base camp tomorrow, where they’ll rest and recover, before looking ahead to their summit rotation! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison checks in with this dispatch from Camp 2 on Mount Everest:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft) team – we’re up at Camp 2 (6500m/21,325ft)!

Today is May 7th and today we climbed up to Camp 3 (7230m/23,720ft) for acclimatization. It was a beautiful day, awesome views, no wind, no clouds. So, had a great trip up to Camp 3, hung out for a bit, had a few snacks and came back down to Camp 2. Good acclimatization, good technical skills practice. So, we’re feeling very prepared and very ready to come back up here in a week or 10 days for our summit push!

We’re going to head down to base camp (5364m/17,598ft) tomorrow for a good, long rest, and then return to make our final summit bid on Everest and Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft)!

All is well here on Everest! We’ll check in soon.

Looking down the fixed-lines on the Lhotse Face.

Looking down the fixed-lines on the Lhotse Face.

Nearing Camp 3 with Nuptse behind.

Nearing Camp 3 with Nuptse behind.

Smiles in the Western Cwm.

Smiles in the Western Cwm.

Looking down the Western Cwm on a sunny day in the Himalaya.

Looking down the Western Cwm on a sunny day in the Himalaya.

Alpenglow on peaks surrounding.

Alpenglow on peaks surrounding.

The team stopping for a rest on the Lhotse Face.

The team stopping for a rest on the Lhotse Face.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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Makalu Expedition Update

Alex relaxing outside his tent at Camp 2 on Makalu.
We are heartbroken by the sudden loss of our teammate and dear friend, Alex Pancoe, who passed away unexpectedly on the evening of May 4th at Camp 2 on Makalu. Alex was sharing a tent with our expedition leader and guide, Terray Sylvester. The two had just finished dinner and were settling into their sleeping bags, chatting casually, when Alex suddenly became unresponsive. Despite hours of resuscitation efforts by Terray and our team of climbers and Sherpa at Camp 2, they were unable to revive him.
 
Earlier that day, Alex had been in high spirits, full of energy, and was considered one of the strongest members of the team. He had been thoroughly enjoying the expedition. Above all, Alex was a devoted father who spoke often and lovingly about his children—they were the center of his world.
 
His passing is a tremendous loss, and our hearts go out to his family during this incredibly difficult time.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

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