The first ascent attempts on unclimbed peaks in Nepal

Guides Garrett Madison & Sid Pattison are in Kathmandu, preparing for the expedition as the climbing team members trickle in from the USA. The Kathmandu Metropolitan City has a population level of over three million people and is Nepal’s largest city. We spent most of today organizing gear and food for our expedition. We received awesome gear from our good Seattle friends at Filson. We also received Truth Bars made by our friends at Forte. Thank you for your support!! The streets of Kathmandu feel very empty, compared to what is normal. The fuel shortage in Nepal has resulted in not many vehicles on the roads, however the Nepalese people are out and going about life as normal. International airlines have cancelled many of  their flights into the country. Thousands of locals have formed mile-long lines with the hope of receiving fuel in the coming days. The country’s unrest increased nearly two weeks ago, when India’s authorities refused to refuel Nepalese oil tankers. This comes at a hard time as the country is still recovering from the 7.8 magnitude earthquake that struck April 25th, 2015. This nation will continue to come together as a resilient people and overcome these obstacles.

Today we received our expedition permit, as tomorrow the Nepalese holiday of Dashein begins and the ministry of tourism office will be closed for a week. The temperature is in the 60’s and is very pleasant. We are quickly adjusting to the nearly 13 hour time difference between Seattle and Nepal. Team picture and pre-expedition announcement will be shared soon!

BurkeKhang1 BurkeKhang2

The Madison Mountaineering team is excited to be leaving for Nepal on October 16th to begin our expedition to Burke Khang, an unclimbed peak in Nepal! In May of 2014, the government of Nepal officially opened up for exploration 104 new peaks in the Himalayan mountain range. Burke Khang is 22,775 feet high and is geographically situated between Mt. Everest and Cho-Oyu. It is unclimbed and, like Everest and Cho Oyu, is a border peak, since it sits on the border of Nepal and Tibet. In April 2015, Garrett and Bill Burke completed a helicopter reconnaissance of Burke Khang. After assessing the mountain terrain the team successfully outlined a route to the summit. Here is a photograph showing the upper section of the mountain with our proposed route to the summit. Stay tuned everyone this is going to be an epic adventure!!Burke Khang

Our 2018 ‘First Ascent of an Unclimbed Peak’ was successful!  Click here to read the recap of this historic climb.


Join us in the autumn of 2019 for another historic ‘first ascent’ of a 22,000’+ unclimbed peak in Nepal. This mountain is relatively nearby Mount Everest, and is unclimbed, presenting a beautiful line to the summit. The peak is approximately 6,500m – 7000m and presents significant technical challenges such as steep snow/ice, as well as route finding, glacier travel, and ridge climbing. We will begin our expedition in Kathmandu, then fly into Lukla and begin trekking to the base camp. From here we will have at least two higher camps on the mountain. We will have sherpa support and plan to use fixed ropes where appropriate, and stock our high camps with plenty of food, equipment, etc. After studying the mountain and climbing route we are very excited to test ourselves and explore this new area. We also are offering an Ama Dablam extension as an option for this program. This will surely be an incredible adventure!


If you are interested please contact our office for more details (+1-206-494-5799), or email info@madisonmountaineering.com. We are also offering a trek to the base camp that will accompany the climbing group for individuals such as friends or family members who would like to participate. The trekking group will spend one night in base camp and then return via a different route, visiting Everest base camp, then returning to Lukla and flying back to Kathmandu. If you are interested in the trek please contact us for details (+1-206-494-5799), or email info@madisonmountaineering.com. The cost will be commensurate with the Everest base camp trek.