Tag Archive for: Pakistan

Members of our Sherpa team making offerings during our puja ceremony today (📸: @terray_s)

Today, the team had their Puja ceremony in base camp (4968m/16,300ft) and continues to rest up before they make their way back up the mountain. Here’s expedition lead, Garrett Madison, with today’s dispatch from K2 base camp:

Hello! This is Garrett checking in for the Madison Mountaineering K2 Expedition.

Today is July 7th and today we had our Puja ceremony in base camp. After lunch, the weather cleared up and our Sherpa team, our Pakistani team, and all of our climbers gathered around our Puja shrine. We had a wonderful ceremony asking the mountain for safe passage. Afterwards, we had a little dance party, celebration, then had a nice dinner and just finished a movie!

So, everyone’s doing well in base camp. We’re resting lots, eating, and just taking it easy – waiting for some of this bad weather to pass and looking forward to good weather on the way!

All is well here on K2.

Our Pakistani staff and members of our Sherpa team providing the music for the post-puja dancing today (📸: @terray_s)

Our Pakistani staff and members of our Sherpa team providing the music for the post-puja dancing today (📸: @terray_s)

Climber, Krisli, receiving a blessing from Dorje Gyaljen Sherpa at today's puja (📸: @terray_s)

Climber, Krisli, receiving a blessing from Dorje Gyaljen Sherpa at today’s puja (📸: @terray_s)

Our climber, Nelly, sporting a tsampa (roasted barley flour) "mustache" during today's puja. The mustache is a blessing to guarantee that the recipient lives to old age (📸: @terray_s)

Our climber, Nelly, sporting a tsampa (roasted barley flour) “mustache” during today’s puja. The mustache is a blessing to guarantee that the recipient lives to old age (📸: @terray_s)

Dorje Gyaljen Sherpa leading today's puja. Dorje is a very strong Himalayan climber and member of our Sherpa team, he's also trained as a Buddhist lama (📸: @terray_s)

Dorje Gyaljen Sherpa leading today’s puja. Dorje is a very strong Himalayan climber and member of our Sherpa team, he’s also trained as a Buddhist lama (📸: @terray_s)


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

Photo from Madison Mountaineering Photo Archive

The team has completed their first rotation on K2, and are now resting up and enjoying themselves in base camp (4968m/16,300ft). Here’s expedition lead, Garrett Madison, with today’s dispatch from K2 base camp:

Hello! This is Garrett checking in for the Madison Mountaineering K2 Expedition Team. Today is Wednesday, July 6th and the team is all back down in base camp.

The team had a great second night at Camp 2 (6700m/21,980ft) completing the first rotation – it was two nights at Camp 1 (6065m/19,900ft), two nights at Camp 2, and a night at Advanced Base Camp (5303m/17,400ft), so a total of five nights up on the mountain. We’re all back in base camp and had a great afternoon – showers, laundry, a nice dinner, and a movie! So, looking forward to a good nights rest. Everyone’s doing well here!

Tomorrow, some of our sherpa team will do a trip up to Camp 3 (7250m/23,800ft) with some oxygen. But, we’re all doing well here on K2. It’s been cloudy today and yesterday, but hopefully some good weather’s coming tomorrow and the next day. Looking forward to hopefully some more good weather in the future!

All is well and we’ll check in soon!


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

Climber Krisli Melesk above Camp 1.

The Madison Mountaineering K2 expedition team has settled into Camp 2 (6700m/21,980ft). The team plans to take advantage of the good weather by continuing to acclimatize before heading back to base camp (4968m/16,300ft) to conclude the first rotation. Expedition guide, Terray Sylvester, checks in with today’s dispatch from K2:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the 2022 Madison Mountaineering K2 expedition – it’s Monday, July 4th.

Today our team had a great climb from Camp 1 (6065m/19,900ft) to Camp 2 (6700m/21,980ft) here on K2. We’re at about 6,600 meters – the weather is fantastic, very clear! We had great views of the Baltoro Glacier system, Masherbrum, Broad Peak, and all the other famous mountains around us. Tomorrow our plan is to take an active rest day – we’ll hike up to the base of the Black Pyramid and then descend back to camp and relax in our tents. The following day we’ll descend down to base camp (4968m/16,300ft).

So, all is well and we will be in touch!

One of our tents in Camp 2.

One of our tents in Camp 2.

Guide, Cacho Beiza approaching Camp 1.

Guide, Cacho Beiza approaching Camp 1.

Sirdar and guide, Aang Phurba Sherpa approaching Camp 2 with climber Nelly Attar.

Sirdar and guide, Aang Phurba Sherpa approaching Camp 2 with climber Nelly Attar.

Climber Nelly Attar in Camp 2.

Climber Nelly Attar in Camp 2.

First light on the north pyramid of Broad Peak - seen from Camp 1.

First light on the north pyramid of Broad Peak – seen from Camp 1.


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

Garrett and Nelly reviewing climbing techniques nearby K2 base camp

Both the climbers and sherpas are making great progress through their first rotation on K2! The climbers will head up to Camp 2 (6700m/21,980ft) tomorrow, while the sherpas have fixed ropes all the way up to Camp 3 (7250m/23,800ft). Here’s expedition lead, Garrett Madison, with today’s expedition dispatch from K2:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering K2 expedition team.

Today is July 3rd and all is well here on K2! Yesterday, our sherpa team made great progress and was able fix nearly all the way up to Camp 3 (7250m/23,800ft) – up the Black Pyramid and beyond. The route’s in good condition up to that point. Our climbers went up to Camp 1 (6065m/19,900ft) yesterday and are acclimatizing now, their second night, planning to head up to Camp 2 (6700m/21,980ft) tomorrow.

Yesterday I came down from our first rotation with two members of our climbing team who have decided to head home. They flew out today by helicopter to Skardu (2220m/7,283ft) and will make their way to Islamabad tomorrow.

But everyone’s doing well here on K2, we’ve had great weather and are really happy about the rope fixing progress that our sherpa team made – looking forward to more climbing here in the future.


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

View of K2 and the Cesen route from hike to ABC

The K2 expedition team has arrived at advanced base camp (5303m/17,400ft) and is preparing to move higher up the mountain to Camp 1 (6065m/19,900ft) and Camp 2 (6700m/21,980ft) in the coming days as part of their first rotation. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison, checks in via Garmin inReach Mini with this brief update:

Just arrived in advanced base camp (5303m/17,400ft), everyone is doing well. We are planning to climb from advanced base camp (5303m/17,400ft) to Camp 1 (6065m/19,900ft) tomorrow.


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

Prayer flags hanging in base camp far below the summit of K2 (📸: @terray_s)

The team is ready to start the first rotation and begin making their way higher up on K2! This week, they plan to spend nights at advanced base camp, Camp 1, and Camp 2.  Here’s expedition lead, Garrett Madison, with today’s expedition dispatch from base camp on K2:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering K2 expedition team – today is June 30th.

We had a good day here in base camp (4968m/16,300ft) getting organized sorting gear for our first rotation. We’re planning to head up tomorrow to advanced base camp (5303m/17,400ft) and the following day up to Camp 1 (6065m/19,900ft) for a couple of nights and then up to Camp 2 (6700m/21,980ft) for a few nights.

Everything’s looking good here – the mountain’s in great shape, the weather’s good, the team’s doing really well. We did some training and everybody’s feeling solid, so we’re looking forward to getting up higher on the mountain, having some good views, and then back here in base camp about a week from today.

All is well here on K2, check in soon.

Our climbing team posing for a photo during an acclimatization hike on June 29, with the spectacular icefalls of K2 behind them. (📸: @terray_s)

Our climbing team posing for a photo during an acclimatization hike on June 29, with the spectacular icefalls of K2 behind them. (📸: @terray_s)

Expedition Leader Garrett Madison working with climber Piers B. during a skills refresher session on June 28. The ice pinnacles on the Godwin Austen Glacier next to base camp are a great venue for reviewing fixed line climbing techniques. (📸: @terray_s)

Expedition Leader Garrett Madison working with climber Piers B. during a skills refresher session on June 28. The ice pinnacles on the Godwin Austen Glacier next to base camp are a great venue for reviewing fixed line climbing techniques. (📸: @terray_s)

Our climbers on an acclimatization hike above the Godwin Austen Glacier near K2 base camp on June 29. (📸: @terray_s)

Our climbers on an acclimatization hike above the Godwin Austen Glacier near K2 base camp on June 29. (📸: @terray_s)


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

The team at base camp!

The team has said “goodbye” to the trekkers and looks forward to the days ahead leading up to their first rotation.

Hello! This is Garrett checking in for the K2 expedition team.

We are at K2 base camp (4968m/16,300ft) – it’s another beautiful day here and today we saw the last of our trekkers off. They were headed down valley with Fred Alldredge to trek down the Baltoro Glacier back to Jhola Camp (3151m/10,338ft), and then by Jeep to Skardu (2220m/7283ft). It’ll be a few days before they reach Skardu. Our other trekkers helicoptered out yesterday and made it all the way back to Islamabad just in a few hours time – amazing logistics that worked out!

The rest of us are here settling into base camp. We’re happy to be here, we’re going to do some training today and an acclimatization hike tomorrow. Everyone’s doing well and the weather’s just perfect at the moment – sunny and not a cloud in the sky! Our Sherpa team just reached Camp 2 (6700m/21,980ft) – first team of the season to make it up to Camp 2. They set up 5 tents for us and we’re looking forward to doing a first rotation here in a few days time.

All is well here at K2 base camp! We’ll check in soon.

Enjoying the evening light at camp

Enjoying the evening light at camp

Piers cutting the ham for an afternoon snack

Piers cutting the ham for an afternoon snack

Training on the ice today near base camp with K2 behind

Training on the ice today near base camp with K2 behind

Nelly enjoying the nice weather here in the Madison Mountaineering base camp

Nelly enjoying the nice weather here in the Madison Mountaineering base camp


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

Photo from Madison Mountaineering Photo Archive

The team has reached K2 base camp and will spend the next few days dialing things in, encouraged by more good weather ahead!

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the K2 climbing team.

We reached K2 base camp today and it was a beautiful day. We had views of K2, Broad Peak, and other surrounding mountains. We got to base camp and we’ve been setting up our camp ever since. We’ve got things mostly set up for the time being, but it will take us a couple of days to get everything totally dialed in the way we want it. Everyone’s doing well. We had a mini Puja with some our Sherpa’s – they’re going to head up to Camp 1 tomorrow and we’re going to take a rest day here. Some of our trekkers are going to try and helicopter out tomorrow morning and the rest of the trekkers will take a rest day here, and then head down the following day to start their trek back to Skardu.

So, everyone’s doing well, excited to be up here, and looking forward to more good weather ahead.

Basecamp tent illuminated at dusk

Base camp tent illuminated at dusk

Garrett and porter/Sherpa team happy to be in basecamp!

Everyone’s happy to be in base camp!


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

First views of K2 from Concordia

The team has reached Concordia Camp and has spectacular views of the Karakoram Range, including their first views of K2! Garrett checks in with todays expedition dispatch:

Hello, this is Garrett checking in for the Madison Mountaineering K2 Expedition Team.

Today is June 25th and we have arrived in Concordia Camp. This is where the Baltoro Glacier splits and goes up to K2Broad Peak or the other direction towards the Gasherbrums. We’re happy to be here. We had another beautiful day – sunny and not a cloud in the sky. We had our first view of K2 today – beautiful peak!

The team’s doing well. It’s a beautiful day here, everyone’s doing well, we’re looking forward to a good dinner and a good night’s rest. Up to K2 base camp tomorrow!

We’ll check in soon.


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram:

Trekking towards Urdukas Camp

The team had a beautiful day trekking up the Baltoro Glacier to Urdukas Camp. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison provides todays dispatch via sat-phone:

Hello, this is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering K2 Expedition Team. Today is June 23rd.

We’ve reached Urdukas Camp (4034m/13,235ft) on the way to K2 Basecamp. It was a long day trekking from Paiju up the Baltoro Glacier. We had a beautiful day that started off cool, but then warmed up. It got very warm for a while during mid-day on the glacier, then cooled off in the afternoon. We’re just about to settle down and have dinner. Everyone’s doing well, but we’re a little tired.

We’re looking forward to a shorter day tomorrow, trekking up the glacier towards Goro 2 Camp. It’s great to be here, we’re having a good time. We saw a lot of beautiful peaks today; Great Trango Towers, Broad Peak, and a lot of other mountains.

We’re really enjoying the trek so far, we’ll check in soon.

Team trekking along the Braldo River

Team trekking along the Braldo River


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.

Instagram: