Garrett, Author at Madison Mountaineering

About Garrett

Garrett Madison, America’s premier Everest guide and Expedition Leader, began guiding professionally in 1999 on Mount Rainier and has reached the top of Everest 11 times. As Expedition Leader, he has personally led 70+ climbers (clients) to the summit of Everest since 2009, more than any other guide. In 2011, Garrett led the first expedition in history where climbers succeeded in the Everest – Lhotse combination, reaching the summit of two 8000-meter peaks back to back in less than 24 hours. He has since repeated this ‘doubleheader’ combination in 2013 and 2018 and is currently the only climber in the world to have done so 3 times. Garrett holds the record for guiding climbers (5) in reaching the summits of two 8000-meter peaks within 24 hours.

Entries by Garrett

K2 2014

K2 Route Spotting

Spying our route on the Abruzzi Ridge from base camp, good weather is heading our way!

July 18, 2014/0 Comments/by Garrett

K2 2014

K2 team resting in base camp

Yesterday afternoon our K2 climbing team descended from Camp 2, after five nights sleeping at elevations of up to 22,000’. We plan to rest for the next few days and assess the weather and route conditions for our next foray up the mountain. We hope a weather window will materialize long enough for us to […]

July 17, 2014/2 Comments/by Garrett

K2 2014

K2 First Rotation Complete

The K2 team just returned to base camp after spending 5 nights at elevations of up to 22,000′.

July 16, 2014/1 Comment/by Garrett

K2 2014

K2 Partway to Camp 3: First Rotation

Climbed partway up to Camp 3 today, a cold and windy day but great views. Planning to descend to K2 base camp tomorrow for some R & R! – Garrett Elevation = 21,912.01 ft. Location = (35.870243, 76.532610)

July 15, 2014/1 Comment/by Garrett

K2 2014

K2 Camp 2: First Rotation

Chilling out at K2 Camp 2 on K2, 22,000′. A little windy and cloudy, but happy to be here! Enjoyed climbing Howse’s chimney just before camp:) – Garrett Elevation = 21,880.94 ft. Location = (35.870113, 76.532650)

July 14, 2014/0 Comments/by Garrett

K2 2014

K2 ABC: First Rotation

Just made it up to advanced base camp. Looking forward to climbing up to camp 1 tomorrow. – Garrett Elevation = 17,400 ft. Location = (35.860040, 76.542860)

July 11, 2014/0 Comments/by Garrett

K2 2014

Puja Ceremony today and heading up for first rotation!

Early today we had our Puja ceremony with our climbing team and asked the mountain for safe passage. We have been fortunate to have great weather, and are heading up later this afternoon to advanced base camp, then will try to reach Camps 1 & 2. Our trekking team left today to head down and […]

July 11, 2014/0 Comments/by Garrett

K2 2014

Arrived K2 Base Camp!

Yesterday we arrived in K2 base camp, and have enjoyed perfect weather the last 2 days! After a long trek, the comforts of base camp include our spacious dining and communications tent, our personal tents, and our shower tent (this was much appreciated after the week long trek). The food here is amazing, our cook […]

July 9, 2014/1 Comment/by Garrett

K2 2014