K2 Summit!! Garrett just called in this report from K2 Camp 4 on their way down:
Hey this is Garrett calling in for the K2 expedition team. We reached the summit of K2 today!! Second highest mountain in the world! We had a beautiful day. We left high camp about 9:00 PM and got to the summit about 6:30-7:00 AM – all members were on top. We had it all to ourselves, no other crews were up there. Beautiful day! We saw many other great peaks in the Karakoram. Wonderful views as far as the eye can see. Really a magnificent climb!
Right now we are all back at Camp 4. The last climbers are trickling back to Camp 4. Our plan is to rest up, have some soup, and then head on down to Camp 2 for the night. It’s a big push, another 4 or 5 hours from here but we’d really like to get down to Camp 2.
We had a great day, just wonderful weather up high, no wind, great team of climbers, Sherpa, and guides. We had a total of 8 clients on top, 3 guides, 9 Nepali Sherpas, and 4 Pakistani high altitude porters. Great day!
We are looking forward to a safe descent and being in Base Camp tomorrow. We will check soon.
Just moments ago our full climbing team successfully summited Everest at 8,850m (29,035ft)!! It is a spectacular day here with no wind or clouds in sight. 15 Sherpa, 7 climbers (Jim, Joel, Stuart, Nick, Lisa, Ankur, Jeff) and 5 guides (Garrett, Billy, Conan, Fred, Brent) are together at the top. The sun is shining and we are so very happy that our climbers have made it to the top of the world. Our team will take in the views and enjoy the moment before making the descent back down to Camp 2.
Garrett, Lisa, and Stuart will be climbing Lhotse today as well which continues the excitement. The Lhotse fixed lines were finished last night and our team will rest for a few hours at Camp 4 before making this second ascent.
Stay tuned, pictures to come!! 🙂
I am very proud to say that the Madison Mountaineering climbing team on Aconcagua had complete success! All team members stood on the highest point of the Western & Southern Hemispheres together on January 22nd. Congratulations to the following climbers:
As many climbers are aware, this season on Aconcagua has been a very tough one with severe storms preventing teams from reaching the summit. As we approached the mountain on our trek into base camp, we encountered many teams that had not ascended past Camp 1 on the mountain, and were very discouraging. The look of defeat in their faces and of time spent suffering at high altitude without any summit attempt made us wonder….We pressed onward. After we reached base camp we received a weather forecast that suggested favorable weather, but only for a short time. In order to take advantage of this, we accelerated our climbing schedule and put our team in a position to summit on the last day of good weather (January 22nd). All team members pulled together to push the itinerary forward, with hard work and determination we succeeded in reaching our goal.
The day after we reached the summit the next storm cycle began with high winds and snow preventing any other summit attempts, we reached base camp on this day, and were informed by the park rangers that they were closing the mountain to climbers indefinitely because of landslides. We really lucked out with our weather window, and with a group individual climbers who pulled together as a team to make the summit become a reality for everyone. Great job team!
The team is doing well and we are currently waiting in Penitentes for the road to open so we can drive to Mendoza. Because of the landslides the road is currently closed in both directions. We expect the roads to be opened shorty. Onward!
A picnic on the approach hike
Aconcagua from Plaza Mulas base camp
Aconcagua team on the summit!
Climbers head up the Canaleta
Last rest break before the summit
Peter climbing up the Canaleta
The team at Camp 1 on the way up
View of the Andes from 22,500′!
Today Garrett, Mike, Sam, Iñaki, and Todd reached the summit of Antarctica at 4,892 meters (16,050 ft). With clear skies our team enjoyed spectacular 360 degree views! A truly “magical” experience. Mount Vinson is more than 750 miles (1,200 kilometers) from the South Pole, making it the most remote of the Seven Summits. It was also the last discovered, last climbed, and last named of the Seven Summits. Mount Vinson is named for U.S. Representative Carl Vinson of Georgia, who served in Congress from 1935 to 1961 and was the former chairman of the House Armed Services Committee. He was a influential lobbyist for government funding of American exploration in Antarctica. After an early morning summit push, Garrett and team were able to make it to the summit and enjoy the stabilized weather conditions which the team took advantage of. Now resting at Camp 2 with moderate winds, the team is preparing for tomorrows continued descent toward Union Glacier Camp.
Great job team!!
Audio Dispatch from Garrett Madison ~ Sunday, December 6
Garrett and team approaching the highest peak in Antarctica, at 4,892 meters (16,050 ft)!
Summit of Mount Vinson!
Expedition leader Joe Buttler’s reconnaissance mission from base camp turned into a successful summit push today! Joe and Newall pushed onward through the Yellow Valley and to the impressive rock face of Carstensz Pyramid. At this point the team crossed the Tyrolean Traverse and continued up the summit ridge. After reaching an elevation of 16,042 ft, Joe and Newall experienced beautiful views from the highest point in Indonesia. Carstensz Pyramid is also the highest point between the Himalayas and the Andes, and the highest island peak in the world!
Ankur of our climbing team is currently under the weather and we are hoping for a fast recovery to full health. Tomorrow the team will have an early start to the day and make another push to the summit. To the top!
Yesterday Garrett & Sid, along with four of our climbing Sherpas went up from Camp 1 to work on fixing lines to the summit ridge. This was a slow and important step as we prepare the route for our climbing teams ascent. The route from Camp 1 follows the ridge line to the right, hard climbing but without the objective hazard (icefall, avalanches) that the less steep ‘climbers left’ potential route offers. We accomplished a lot, the lines are now just a few hours from the summit. Today Bill, Sid, and Phurba Rita Sherpa are heading up from Camp 1 to put in a small Camp 2, just below the summit ridge. Our plan is for the climbers here in Camp 1 to wake up and leave around 2 AM, an ‘alpine start’ and to climb up and join the three climbers who are in Camp 2 around 6 AM, then continue together towards the summit. We still have a bit of route setting work ahead, hopefully just a few hours along the summit ridge to the top! The climbing team is ready for this ascent and our group is in good health.
Here we go everyone, this is what we have been waiting for! News from the mountain will be released as soon as it is received here on the dispatch page.
View of climbing route & Burke Khang summit from Camp 1: