Tag: International Climbs

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We are pleased to offer a new program that combines the majesty of Mount Everest with world-class ice climbing for participants of all levels. By basing out of Madison Mountaineering’s signature Everest base camp, participants get to live at the foot of Mount Everest, while enjoying the luxuries and comforts of the most professionally managed camp on the mountain. We have individual ‘box’ tents where members can stand up & have a cot with a thick mattress, we have hot showers, a first-rate dining tent with fresh meat and vegetables flown in regularly from Kathmandu, and a leisure tent to stretch out in, do yoga, etc. The camp is positioned adjacent to the famous Khumbu glacier ice pinnacles where we do the majority of our climbing.

Day 1: Arrive Kathmandu. We pick you up at the airport and go to the iconic Yak & Yeti hotel where we do an equipment check, then see some of the famous sights in Kathmandu such as Buddhist and Hindu temples, then we have a team dinner before heading off to bed.

Day 2: Helicopter flight to Namche Bazaar. We depart the Yak & Yeti hotel early and fly into the Khumbu valley to the village of Namche Bazaar, where we stay in the lovely Panorama lodge. We tour the ‘capital of the Khumbu’ village and have a restful night at 10,500 ft.

Day 3: Acclimatization hike above Namche. We hike to the Everest View Hotel and have tea overlooking the iconic peaks of Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, and Ama Dablam. We return to our lodge and spend the night.

Day 4: Trek to Debuche. We trek through the beautiful Khumbu valley to the Tengboche monastery, then descend into the rhododendron forest to our lodge for the night.

Day 5: Trek to Pheriche. We continue trekking up the Khumbu valley with magnificent views of Ama Dablam. We stop in Pangboche for a blessing by the ‘high lama’ of the Buddhist monastery, then continue onward to the Edelweiss lodge for the night.

Day 6: Acclimatization hike above Pheriche. We hike up a nearby ridge to gain a spectacular view of many famous Himalayan peaks such as Makalu, Cho Oyu, Cholatse, and Ama Dablam. We return to Pheriche and visit the Himalayan Rescue Association medical post for a talk on altitude issues with the human body. We have a restful night in our lodge.

Day 7: Trek to Lobuche. We trek upwards and visit the Everest memorials, taking in this heavy yet important legacy to climbers that have perished on the mountain. We continue to the village of Lobuche where we stay for the night. We visit the ‘world’s highest bakery’ for coffee and pastries before dinner.

Day 8: Arrive in Everest base camp! We trek past the village of Gorak Shep, then hike up nearby Kala Pattar (18,250) for a magnificent view of Mount Everest, then continue to base camp. We arrive in base camp and have a hot meal, then tour the camp and move into our personal tents for the duration of our stay. We do an ice climbing info session and prepare for our first day out climbing!

Days 9-12: Climb on! After a hearty breakfast we head out onto the Khumbu ice pinnacles! Our staff has already set up a course with several routes we can climb and practice our techniques on. Tim Emmett instructs climbers as we gradually tackle more difficult ice routes and pinnacles during the program. In addition to ice climbing on top rope & lead climbing, we discuss and practice fixed line ascension, tyrolean traverses, zip-lining, and free soloing, all from one of Ice Climbing’s pioneering and top climbers in the world. Each day climbers are provided with 3 hot meals in Madison Mountaineering’s luxury base camp, and climbers have access to the camp’s hot showers, leisure tent, WiFi, and laundry service.

Day 13: Climbers depart Everest base camp by helicopter and fly to Kathmandu. This helicopter flight is truly one of the most spectacular helicopter flights in the world, as we first have a scenic tour of Everest base camp and the surrounding peaks, then descend around and have birds-eye views of the peaks that we came to know from our trek in such as Ama Dablam and Cholatse. We have a celebratory team dinner in Kathmandu then sleep in the Yak & Yeti hotel in preparation for our departure from Nepal.

Day 14: We head to the airport to board our flights for home.

Cost: $9,850
Deposit: $2,500

2020
March 27 – April 09

Costs Include:
• Accommodations at the Yak & Yeti hotel for one night before and one night after travel into the Khumbu
• Airport pick up upon arrival
• Welcome dinner in Kathmandu
• All in-country flights
• All lodging while in the Khumbu
• All meals while in the Khumbu
• Permits and Park entrance fees
• Guide, Sherpa guides, Nepali staff to carry loads, etc.

Costs Do Not Include:
• Personal items (see Equipment list)
• Bank wire transfer fees, if applicable
• Meals in Kathmandu
• Alcoholic beverages
• Bottled or canned beverages
• Specialty coffee or espresso drinks
• Option to upgrade to single room
• Any costs as the result of an early departure from the program

Cancellation/Refund Policy
• There are no refunds for the deposit or balance payments for this expedition. This includes but is not limited to, expeditions that conclude without reaching objectives or progress towards objectives for participants due to route conditions, weather, insufficient manpower, or any other factor outside the control of Madison Mountaineering. Expedition leader has the final say on the expedition conclusion and will make all best efforts within our margin of safety.
• Participants that choose to leave an active expedition for any reason are not entitled to any refunds
• Madison Mountaineering, LLC highly recommends trip cancellation insurance for all expeditions
• Due to the nature and heavy costs of government and operator permits, Madison Mountaineering must adhere to a stringent refund policy
• Deposit due with registration materials
• All balances are due 120 days prior to departure date unless otherwise specified
• Participants whose balances are not received by the 120-day deadline as stated above, risk forfeiture of their funds and their place on the expedition

Note: Madison Mountaineering, LLC reserves the right to waive any fees. As we offer personalized service, we will attempt to accommodate changes and cancellations when necessary, waiving certain fees when feasible. Deposits paid by participants acknowledge the above cancellation terms.

Base Layers
• Short Underwear: 2-3 pair of synthetic short underwear
• Long Underwear: 2-3 pair lightweight long underwear pants and shirts. 1 pair of heavy expedition weight long underwear.

Mid Layers
• Soft Shell Jacket: A hooded jacket
• Soft Shell pants: For trekking and climbing

Windproof/Rain Layers
• Hard Shell Jacket: To be worn in wet conditions
• Hard Shell Pants: To be worn in wet conditions, these pants should have full side zippers.

Insulation Layers
• Insulated Jacket: PrimaLoft or Down
• Expedition Down Parka: A hooded down jacket with 800 minimum down fill.
• Insulated Pants: PrimaLoft or Down, these should have full side zippers.

Headwear
• Warm Hat: A warm fleece or wool hat.
• Balaclava: to cover your face and neck on windy days.
• Sun hat: A baseball style sun camp.
• Buff: 1-3 of these to wear around your neck & face to block the wind, UV rays, dust.

Eyewear
• Glacier Glasses: wrap around style sunglasses with dark lenses

Gloves
• Waterproof Shell gloves with insulated liner: 2 pair’s for ice climbing
• Soft Shell Gloves: 1 pair
• Shell mittens with insulated liner: 1 pair

Footwear
• Socks: Minimum 3 pair thick mountaineering socks and 3 pair liner socks
• Light hiking boots or trekking shoes: For the trek to base camp, these can be worn at base camp
• Ice climbing Boots: A boot with a built-in gaiter such as the Scarpa Phantom Tech, or Phantom 6000

Sleeping Equipment
• Sleeping Bag: Rated to at least -20 °F. Down is preferable over synthetic.
• Self Inflating pad: A full-length air mattress
• Closed Cell foam pad: Full length is best

Mountaineering Gear
• Ice climbing Backpack: A 45-liter internal frame backpack.
• Compression stuff sacks: for reducing volume for your sleeping bag and down jacket.
• Trash Compactor bags (4): To line stuff sacks and separate gear
• Trekking Backpack: Optional. A small pack for the trek in.
• Trekking Poles: Adjustable poles for the trek to base camp
• Ice Axes: 2 technical tools for ice climbing (Less than 60cm)
• Crampons: Ice climbing
• Helmet: Must fit over a thick hat
• Climbing harness/Alpine
• Carabineers: 4 locking and 2 non-locking
• Belay / Rappel device: For rappelling or belaying climbers
• Ascender: One right or left-hand ascender (Petzl is best)
• Prussik Cord: 20’ or 7 meters of 6mm cord.
• Headlamp: Bring a spare set of batteries

Luggage
• Large Duffel Bag with lock: for transporting all personal gear to base camp.
• Small duffel bag: to store items in the hotel
• Travel Clothes: For days in Kathmandu

Additional Food Items
• Climbing Snacks:
‣ Electrolyte Replacement Drink Mix: Bring a supply for 12 days such as Nuun.
‣ Energy Gel: Single serving gel packs such as GU, Clifshot, Powergel, etc.)
‣ Energy Bars: Power bar, Cliff bar, etc.

Other Equipment
• Water bottles: 2 bottles with 1-liter capacity each
• Water Bottle Parkas: To keep your water from freezing
• Thermos: 1-liter capacity
• Water Purification System: Tablets or Steripen
• Sunscreen: 2 tubes, SPF 40 or stronger
• Lip screen: 2 sticks, SPF 50 or stronger
• Toiletry Bag: Toothpaste, Toothbrush, baby wipes, etc.
• Pee Bottle: 1-liter capacity minimum
• Hand Sanitizer: 2 small bottles
• Hand warmers / Toe warmers: 3 sets of each
• Knife: Optional
• Small Personal First Aid Kit: Athletic tape, band-aids, Ibuprofen, Moleskin, blister care products, personal medications, cough drops
• Medications:
  ‣ Acetazolamide (Diamox) for altitude illness
  ‣ Antibiotics such as Ciprofloxin or Azithromycin for gastrointestinal or respiratory illness
  ‣ Ibuprofen for muscle soreness
  ‣ Pepto Bismol for loose stool
  ‣ Excedrin for headaches
  ‣ Anti-nausea medications

Optional Electronics
• Camera: lightweight with extra batteries

Other Optional Items
• Female urination device (FUD)

More Climbs

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Be among the few to have climbed Antarctica’s highest volcano and one of the Volcanic Seven Summits. Join the ultimate mountaineering expedition to Mount Sidley (4285m / 14,058 ft) and stand atop one of the most remote summits on earth.

Sidley is a huge mountain, set on the white expanse of the Polar Ice Sheet. This majestic peak features a 3 mi (5 km) wide caldera and sheer-walled amphitheater, created by an explosive eruption 4.7 million years ago. Blue-ice slopes guard the upper mountain and fantastical snow mushrooms sprout along the upper ridge, leading to the summit.

Mount Sidley was first climbed in 1990 by New Zealander Bill Atkinson.

Day 1: Arrive in Punta Arenas, Chile. Our guide will meet you upon arrival at the airport and take you to our hotel. After settling in, we will conduct a thorough equipment check, and then have a group dinner at one of the many fine restaurants.

Day 2: After breakfast, we attend a pre-flight briefing with our flight operator, and discuss many aspects of the journey to Antarctica. In the afternoon we send our duffel bags to the airport to be checked and packed for departure. We have the late afternoon and evening to explore the city.

Day 3: Depart for Antarctica. We fly approximately 5 hours over the Drake Passage and land at Union Glacier camp. We generally spend 1-2 nights at this camp.

Day 4: Review rope travel, Ice axe arrest, and crevasse rescue techniques.

Day 5: Fly to Mount Sidley base camp, establish base camp.

Days 6-12: Climbing period. Mount Sidley has been climbed by fewer than 10 teams and there is still opportunity for exploring new routes. The mountain offers several interesting options, including a longer, easy ascent from the north side and a steeper climb up the west ridge from the Bennett Saddle. Your guide will assess the options and decide on a route based on the group’s skill and experience.

From base camp to the summit of Mount Sidley involves approximately 7300 ft (2225 m) of elevation gain. You’ll climb alpine-style, setting intermediate camps on the mountain, and carrying all of your food and equipment with you. Although you may use skis lower down on the mountain, most of the climb will be done with crampons.

The slopes of the mountain are wind-blown, with hard packed snow and sections of blue-ice. Gentle slopes near the base give way to steeper terrain higher up.

Summit day offers spectacular views as you follow up the summit ridge along the rim of the caldera. The walls of the Weiss Amphitheater drop steeply away below you and neighboring Mount Waesche may tempt you with its snowy slopes.

As you make your way to the summit ridge, you’ll weave your way between a fantastical maze of snow mushrooms. These massive snow features are formed by wind and moisture depositing rime ice on small obstacles over time.

Following the summit, you’ll return to your high camp, then retrace your steps back to base camp.

Day 13: Fly back to Union Glacier Camp this day.

Day 14: Fly from Union Glacier Camp to Punta Arenas

Day 15: Depart Punta Arenas for home.

Days 16-18: Extra days in case of bad weather or flight delays.

Mount Sidley 2020 Departures:
January 07, 2020

Cost: $59,950
Deposit: $12,000

Costs Include:
‌• Round trip flights from Punta Arenas to Antarctica
• All flights within Antarctica to reach Mount Sidley base camp and back
• All accommodation and services while in Antarctica
• All meals in Antarctica
• All team equipment (tents, ropes, cooking equipment, etc.)
• All communications equipment such as VHF radios and satellite phone
• Guide service fees
• Daily weather forecasting during the climb

Costs Do Not Include:
• Bank transfer fees, if needed
• Accommodation and meals in Punta Arenas
• Personal items (see equipment list)
• Medical and Evacuation Insurance (required)
• Trip cancellation insurance (highly recommended)
• Any charges incurred that are beyond the control of Madison Mountaineering, LLC
• All prices and program dates are subject to change

Mt. Sidley Cancellation and Refund Policy:
Each deposit includes a $5,000 non-refundable registration fee that secures your flight reservation to Antarctica. A full refund, minus the registration fee will be provided if a refund request is made in writing and received by our office 120 days before the program begins. No refunds will be provided from the 120-day period leading up to the start of the expedition.

• Ice Axe: General mountaineering tool (65cm)
• Crampons: General mountaineering crampons
Ascender: 1 right or left hand ascender (Petzel brand is best)
• Alpine Climbing Harness: A mountaineering harness, with adjustable leg loops. Not a rock climbing “sport” harness.
• Carabineers: 3 locking and 3 regular
• Accessory Cord: 40’ of 5mm accessory cord for rigging your harness and prussiks.
• Rappel device: ATC or figure 8
• Mountaineering boots: La Sportiva Olympus Mons, Millet Everest, etc. A ’triple’ boot system is preferred to keep your feet warm.
• Gaiters: If you are not using a triple boot system (recommended above), then plan to bring gaiters.
• Overboots: If you are not using a triple boot system, please bring neoprene overboots to provide additional warmth for your feet.
• Booties: Optional, down is best.
• Wool or synthetic socks: 3 pair
• Liner socks: 3 pair
• Synthetic Short underwear: A non cotton style underwear.
• Lightweight Long Underwear: 2-3 pair long sleeve shirt and long pants
• Heavyweight long underwear: 1 pair
• Short Sleeve Synthetic Shirt: 1-2 pair
• Soft Shell jacket: To be worn over other layers
• Soft Shell Pants: Very breathable and water repellant
• Hard Shell Jacket with hood: A waterproof and breathable shell jacket
• Hard Shell Pants: Waterproof and breathable shell pants
• Heavyweight Insulated Down Jacket with hood: 800+ fill
• Insulated synthetic Pants: 800+ fill
• Warm Hat: Synthetic or wool hat (ski hat).
• Balaclava: to protect your neck and face in high winds.
• Facemask: Optional, neoprene is best.
• Baseball Cap or other sun hat: To shade your face / neck from the sun on a hot day.
• Bandana or Buff: To protect your neck / face from the sun.
• Balaclava: To protect your face & neck from the wind/cold
• Glacier glasses: Full protection with side covers or wrap around.
• Ski goggles: To be worn on summit day in the event of high winds.
• Lightweight synthetic liner gloves: For wearing on a hot day.
• Soft shell gloves: To wear for moderate cold / wind.
• Shell glove with insulated liner: To wear for severe cold / strong wind.
• Expedition Mitts: Large enough to fit a liner glove inside.
• Expedition Backpack: 65L pack should be large enough.
• Sleeping Bag: Rated to at least -40°F. Goose down or synthetic.
• Compression stuff sacks: For reducing volume of the sleeping bag, down parka, etc., in your pack.
• Self inflating sleeping pad: Full length is preferred.
• Closed cell foam pad: To be used in conjunction with the inflating pad for warmth and comfort when sleeping.
• Trekking poles with snow baskets: Adjustable poles
• Cup: A plastic 16 oz. minimum cup or mug
• Bowl: A large plastic bowl for eating dinner or breakfast out of
• Spoon: Plastic spoon (lexan)
• Sunscreen: SPF 50 or better
• Lip screen: SPF 30 or better (2 sticks).
• Water bottles: 2 or 3 wide mouth bottles with 1 liter capacity.
• Water bottle parkas (2): fully insulated with zip opening.
• Thermos: 1 liter
• Pee bottle: 1 liter minimum bottle for convenience at night in the tent.
• Toiletry bag: Include toilet paper and hand sanitizer
• Hand warmers & toe warmers: 3 sets of each.
• Knife or multi tool (optional).
• Trash compactor bags: to line back pack and stuff sacks as well as for separating gear.
• Camera: bring extra batteries and memory cards.
• Travel Clothes: For days in Punta Arenas.
• Duffel bags (2) with locks: To transport equipment.
• Base Camp Items: Kindle, iPad, smart phone, etc.
• Snack food: Please bring a week’s supply of your favorite climbing snack food such as bars, gels, nuts, beef jerky, etc. A variety of salty and sweet is good. Please be advised that some foods are not allowed into Chile.
• Small personal first aid kit: Include athletic tape, band aids, Ibuprofen, blister care, personal medications, etc.

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Today our team rested in Camp 1 and did a short climb partway up to Camp 2 for acclimatization. We had great weather and made use of our rest day by lounging in our tents much of the day. We look forward to climbing to Camp 2 tomorrow and spending the night.

Today our rope fixing team reported that they made it all the way to Camp 3.  They fixed lines from Camp 2 this morning using our high quality ropes and anchors. Because of the uncertainty surrounding the current state of fixed ropes just below Camp 2 (where the accident occurred yesterday) we have another rope fixing team of Sherpas coming up from base camp early tomorrow morning with our semi static kernmantle ropes for fixed rope climbing, rather than the current polypropylene (Korean) ropes that were put in place by the Japanese team earlier this season. They will re-fix sections that are suspect or in need of better ropes between Camp 1 and Camp 2.

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“We climb mountains around the world for a conservation cause!”

 

Madison Mountaineering is proud to partner with Climb for Conservation, Inc. to make a powerful statement on the summit by raising awareness and funds for some of the most critically endangered species on the planet.  Did you know: unless we take action now, one-half of all species may be extinct by 2100!

In 2019, our mission is to raise awareness and funds for the jaguar species. Join us!

Jaguar species

#1 – MT. KILIMANJARO, Tanzania – We ascend Kilimanjaro in style, enjoying the incredible views, camaraderie, and sense of accomplishment in climbing one of the famed “Seven Summits.”

Dates: July 22 – 31, 2019

Price: $4,600 (climb only) paid directly to Madison Mountaineering

#2 – MT. RAINIER, Washington, USA – Climb the highest peak in the state of Washington to support Climb for Conservation’s mission and operations. Join us on this iconic endurance climb! A unique experience to climb with Everest guide Garrett Madison right here in the USA.

Dates:  August 17 – 21, 2019
Paradise to Summit via Disappointment Cleaver route.
8/17: Arrive at Whitaker Bunkhouse in Ashford, WA
8/18: Climb to Camp Muir
8/19: Climb to Ingraham Flats before summit attempt
8/20: Return to Ingraham Flats
8/21: Return to Paradise
* Non-profit climb under a special use permit from Mt. Rainier National Park

Price: $3,000 non-profit donation to Climb for Conservation, Inc.

Climb for Conservation, Inc. is a 501c3 Public Charity – tax identification 27-3118371.
Charitable contributions are deductible to the fullest extent of the law.
Contact ginna@climbforconservation.org for more information.

www.ClimbforConservation.org

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After 2 years of successful operations in the North of Pakistan on nearby 8000 meter peaks, we are very excited to offer Great Trango Tower via the the Northwest Face in 2017. This route was first climbed in 1984 by Andy Selters and Scott Woolums, and we are absolutely thrilled that Scott will lead this climb with co guide Seth Timpano for Madison Mountaineering in 2016. The Northwest Face is an alpine climb, with rock climbing up to 5.7 and water ice 3-4 on summit day. We plan to fix the route so that climbers can make a fast ascent / descent when weather conditions are most favorable. The Great Trango Tower climbing team will accompany the K2 / Broad Peak team on the journey from Islamabad and will trek into K2 base camp for a few nights of acclimatization before descending back down the Baltoro glacier to Great Trango base camp. The ’advance team’ of local guides will have already established the base camp, as well as Camps 1 & 2 on the mountain, so that when the climbing team arrives at Great Trango base camp everything is ready and in place to begin climbing immediately assuming favorable weather. These towers have some of the largest cliffs in the world, including the greatest ’nearly vertical’ drop on the planet. This is sure to be spectacular climbing experience!

Scott Woolums:
Starting out guiding on Alaska’s Mt. McKinley in 1981, Scott has led well over 150 expeditions to the highest mountain on Earth (over 5800 meters). He has climbed Mt. Everest by both the North and South Routes and reached the summit four times now and almost summited the ”Seven Summits” four times (one summit away!). Led 43 expeditions to Mt. McKinley, 33 to Aconcagua, 12 to Kilimanjaro, 13 to Mt. Elbrus, 5 summits of Vinson in Antarctica…. all with a perfect safety record. This is simply something no other guide with near the same experience can say in the USA. Scott has created a life around the remote regions and mountains that have been his passion all his life!

Seth Timpano:
Personal Ice Climbs:
• Mummy II-IV (WI5+, M5) Hyalite Canyon, MT
• Winter Dance (WI6, M5, A0) Hyalite Canyon, MT
• The Big Sleep (WI6+, M6) Hyalite Canyon, MT
• California Ice (WI4) Beartooth Mountains, MT
• Hydrophobia (WI5+) Ghost River, Canada
• Broken Hearts P1-6 (WI6) Cody, WY
• Full Weeping Wall (WI6) Icefields Parkway, Canada
• Suffer Machine (WI5, M7) Stanley Headwall, Canada
• Climb Above Dribbles (WI5+, M6) Hyalite Canyon, MT
• Come and Get It (M7-) Hyalite Canyon, MT
• Bitches Brew w/ New 6th Pitch(WI5+, M4) Cody, WY
• Nemesis (WI6) Stanley Headwall, Canada
• Polar Circus (WI5) Icefields Parkway, Canada
• Several Climbs on the Dream Wall YNP (up to WI6, M6)
• Yellowstone National Park, WY
• Avalanche Gulch (WI5, M6) Hyalite Canyon, MT
• The Bogger (WI6) Pilot Creek, WY
• Junkyard Cat (WI5 – FA) Yellowstone National Park, MT
• Earl-Trimble on N. Face of Sphinx (WI4)
• Black Magic (WI5+, M5) Hyalite Canyon, MT
• The Asylum (WI5, M7+) Kicking Horse Canyon, BC Canada
• Craniotomy (M6) Kicking Horse Canyon, BC Canada
• Narcolepsy (M5+, WI5+) Hyalite Canyon, MT
• Dancing with The Hippo (WI6) Yellowstone National Park, WY

Personal Rock Climbs:
• Moonlight Buttress (C1, 5.10, V) Zion NP, Utah
• Touchstone Wall (5.11a, C2, IV) Zion NP, Utah
• Prodigal Sun (C2, 5.6, V) Zion NP, Utah
• The Silmaril (5.10+, A2, V) Zion NP, Utah
• Southern Man (5.10, A2+, V) Yosemite NP, Washington
• NW Face of Half Dome (5.10b, C1, VI, 1 day) Yosemite NP, California
• Zodiac on El Capitan (5.8, C3, VI, 2012 (2 nights on wall)) Yosemite NP, California
• OZ-Gram Traverse-Mordor (5.10d, IV) Tuolumne Meadows, California
• War of the Walls (5.10c, IV) Calaveras Dome, California
• Hyperspace (5.11a, IV) Snow Creek Wall, Leavenworth, Washington
• Silk Road (5.11b, IV) Calaveras Dome, California
• Freeblast (5.10c, C1, IV) Yosemite NP, California
• Shune’s Buttress (5.11, IV) Zion NP, Utah
• North Buttress of Middle Cathedral Rock (5.10, V) Yosemite NP, California
• Primrose Dihedrals on Moses (5.11+, IV) Canyonlands NP, Utah
• North Face of Castleton Tower (5.11-, III) Moab, Utah
• Apron Strings-Cruel Shoes-Grand Wall-Upper Black Dike (5.11a, A0, V) Squamish, BC
• Low Blood Sugar (5.11a, III) Clarks Fork Canyon, WY
• 30+ Desert Towers up to 5.11d
• Various Single Pitch Sport Routes in Thailand up to 5.11d
• Various Single Pitch Trad Routes in Index, WA up to 5.11d
• Various Single Pitch Trad Routes in Indian Creek up to 5.12-

Personal Alpine Rock Climbs:
• Traverse of De l’S (Upper Austrian), St. Exubery (Chiaro di Luna), St. Exubery-Rafael Juarez
• Ridge and Rafael Juarez (Upper Anglo American) (5.11a, VI, 1600m – Leader and Follower, All free, 3 days)
• Comensna-Fonrouge on Guillaumet (5.10+, IV) El Chalten, Argentina
• East Ridge of Inspiration Peak (5.9, IV) Pickets, North Cascades NP, Washington
• Acid Baby on Enchantment Peak (5.10+, IV) Alpine Lakes Wilderness, Washington
• Montana Centennial (5.11b, IV) AB Wilderness, Montana
• South Face of Aguille du Midi – Rebuffat (5.10a, TD+) Chamonix, France
• East Face of Chianti Spire (5.10, III) Washington Pass, Washington
• East Face of The Duck (5.10, III) Little Slide Canyon, High Sierra, California
• Third Pillar of Dana w/ Sit Start (5.10b, III) Dana Plateau, High Sierra, California
• Crescent Spire (McTech Arete 5.10b, III) Bugaboos, British Columbia
• West Face of North Early Winter Spire (5.11-, Grade III) Washington Pass, Washington
• North Face of Charles Webis (5.10d, Grade III) Los Arenales, Argentina
• Springbok Arete on Les Cornes (5.10c, TD+) Anderson River Range, British Columbia
• Goldfinger on The Stump (5.10, IV) Ruth Glacier, Alaska
• West Face of Colchuck Balanced Rock (5.11a, C1, IV) Alpine Lakes Wilderness, Washington
• Northeast Buttress of Mount Slesse (5.9, Grade V) Chilliwack Group, BC Canada
Liberty Bell via Liberty Crack (5.10+, C2, Grade V) Washington Pass, Washington
• El Mocho via Piola-Anker Route (5.10+, C1, ED-) El Chalten, Argentina
• NE Buttress of The Deacon (5.10+, IV) Cathedral Lakes BC, Canada (First Ascent)

Personal Mountain/Alpine Climbs:
• Artesonraju (SW Face, D, 6025m) Cordillera Blanca, Peru
• Quitaraju (North Face, D-, 6040m) Cordillera Blanca, Peru
• Chopicalqui (SW Ridge, AD, 6354m) Cordillera Blanca, Peru
• Mooses Tooth via Ham and Eggs Couloir (Alaska Grade 3+, AI4+, M4) Ruth Glacier, Alaska
• SW Ridge of Peak 11,300 (5.8, AI3, IV) Ruth Glacier, AK
• Whilians Route on Cerro Poincenot (5.9, M4, TD) El Chalten, Argentina
• Attempt on a New Route on the East Ridge of Hiun Chuli (6441m, ca. 5500m) Annapurna Himal, Nepal
• Harvard Route to the Summit of Mount Huntington (5.9, A2, AI4) Alaska Range, Alaska
• Fil a Plomb – North Face of Rongon du Plan – Mid Plan Traverse (AI4+, M4, TD-) Chamonix, France
• Supercouloir – Direct Start on Mount Blanc du Tacul (M6, AI5, ED2) Chamonix, France
• North Couloir on Mini Moonflower (AI5) Alaska Range, Alaska
• Southwest Ridge of Mount Frances (5.8, M4, AI3) Alaska Range, Alaska
• North Face – Swiss Route on Les Courtes (M4, AI3+, TD-, 3852m) Chamonix, France
• Central Couloir on East Dolence Peak (5.7, AI3, IV) Union Glacier, Antarctica (First Ascent)
• Cerro Fitz Roy – California Route (5.10, C1, AI3,TD) El Chalten, Argentina
• Bachichiki – South Summit via “The Pencil” or West Face Couloir (AI4, TD, 4500m)
• Ala Archa National Park, Kyrgyzstan
Peak 4150m – Privyet Spacibo (M6+, AI5, ED2) Ala Archa National Park, Kyrgyzstan (First Ascent)
• The Reality Face (AI5, 5300 ft, VI) East Face of Peak 13,100, Alaska Range, Alaska (First Ascent)
• Barnaj II 6300m – Northwest Buttress (AI5, 3000 of 5000 ft face) Zanskar, India (Bailed due to rock fall remains unclimbed)
• Barnaj I 6400m – SE Face (AI3, M4, 5000 ft face) Zanskar, India (Climbed to summit ridge – last 50 meteres remains unclimbed) (First Ascent)
• North Face of Dragontail (Cotter-Bebie, AI4, M6, 2800 ft, IV) Cascades, WA (First Free Ascent)
North Face of Athabasca (AI3, M4+, IV) Icefields Parkway, Canada
• Jim & Jeff’s Excellent Adventure – East Face of Baronette Peak (WI4, M4, III) Yellowstone NP
• Pk. 11300 – West Face w/Sit Start (AI5, M5, 3500 ft, V) Ruth Gorge, AK (Climbed to summit seracs)
(First Ascent)
• The Devil’s Advocate (AI5, M4, 4200 ft, VI) West Face of Peak 13,100, Alaska Range, Alaska (First Ascent)

Guided Climbs:
• 50+ Guided Summits of Mount Rainier via 4 different Routes (Ingraham Direct, Disappointment Cleaver, Kautz, Emmons)
• Climbs in Washington Pass up 5.9, IV
• Climbs in the North Cascades up to 5.7, AI3, IV (Triumph, Shuksan, Baker, Olympus…)
• Torment – Forbidden Traverse 5.6, V
• North Ridge of Mount Stuart 5.9, IV
• Mount Cook – Linda Glacier NZ Grade 3
• Rock Climbs near Moab up to 5.10
• Several Peaks in the Alaska Range including Mount Frances and Peaks in the SW Fork of Kahiltna
• Various Peaks and First Ascents throughout the Ellsworth Mountains of Antarctica.
• Planned Logistics and Guided the Soholt Peak Traverse, Antarctica (8 days)
• 20+ Mountaineering & Rock Climbing Skills Seminars varying from 1-13 days in the Cascades, Alaska & Antarctica

Guided Expeditions:
• 7 Denali Expeditions via the West Buttress (2009-2015)
• 10 Summits in the Vinson Massif (6 Vinson, 2 Shinn, 2 Sublime) (2010-2013)
• Ski the Last Degree Expedition to the South Pole (8 days)
• Lead Safety Guide on Pisten Bully Crevasse • Extraction in Union Glacier, Antarctica (1 month)

Lead Guide / Manager Roles:
• 2.5 Season as Travel Safety Manager in Union Glacier, Antarctica
• Oversee and manage ALE’s glacier travel strategy, including implementation of best practices, safe practices, safe planning, travel risk assessments and work plans.
• Senior Guide at Alpine Ascents International
• 8 years as AAI guide. Lead Guide on trips and expeditions, act as a consultant for the office on many topics such as: new trips, improvements, client care, guide development, gear, etc.
• One of the Lead Guide Trainers for Alpine Ascents Int’l (2 Seasons). In this role, I help run and train new guides to the company in addition to our returning guides training seminars.

Climbing/Rescue Trainings Taken:
• Linked Snowmobile Training (2 days, Antarctica)
• Rigging for Rescue Seminar (7 days, Red Rocks)
• Rigging for Rescue Refresher & Protocols (3 days, Mount Rainier NP)
• Rigging for Rescue Lower on DC (2 days, Mount Rainier NP)
• Rigging for Rescue Self Rescue and Small Team Response (5 days, Colorado)
• Various In House Trainings with Antarctic Logistics & Expeditions (2010-2015)
• Various In House Trainings with Alpine Ascents International (2008-2015)
• Rigging for Rescue Self Rescue & Small Team Workshop (Signed up for Oct. 2015 Ouray, CO)

Certifications:
• Wilderness First Responder
• Avalanche Level 1 & 2

Awards:
• 2010 McNeil – Nott Award (Nepal)
• 2013 AAI Guide Grant (India)
• 2014 Mugs Stump Award (India)
• 2014 AAC Lyman – Spitzer Award (India)

Day 1: Depart home country

Day 2: In transit

Day 3: Arrive Islamabad. Check all gear, review program itinerary

Day 4: Fly to Skardu

Day 5: Travel by jeep to Askole

Day 6: Trek to Jhola

Day 7: Trek to Paiju

Day 8: Trek to Urdukas

Day 9: Trek to Goro

Day 10: Trek to Concordia

Day 11: Trek to K2 base camp

Day 12: Trek to K2 Advanced base camp

Day 13: Descend to K2 base camp and sleep

Day 13: Descend to Concordia

Day 14: Descend to Urdukas

Day 15: Descend to Great Trango base camp

Day 16: Rest and organize gear in base camp

Day 17: Climb to Camp 1

Day 18: Climb to Camp 2

Day 19: Summit day and return to Camp 1 or base camp.

Day 20: Rest in base camp

Day 21: Trek to Paiju

Day 22: Trek to Askole

Day 23: Drive by jeep to Skardu

Day 24: Fly to Islamabad

Day 25: Depart Islamabad for home country

Days 26-35: Extra days in case of bad weather, flight delays, etc.

Great Trango Tower Climb

2019 Departures:
June 18

Cost$28,500
Deposit: $12,000

4 Climbers maximum, with 2 US Climbing guides & 4 local climbing guides

Balance due 120 days prior to departure

Costs Include:
• Airport pick up
• Welcome dinner in Islamabad
• American mountain mountain guide, support staff, porters, cooks,
• Accommodations in Islamabad (1 night) before the expedition, and (1 night) after the expedition.
• High quality camps will be provided during the trek, and tents will be provided during the climb.
• We provide all meals during the trek and climb. We bring high quality food from the US and source local organic food from Pakistan for this expedition (think real maple syrup and bacon!). We are happy to accommodate your dietary needs!
• All ground transportation in Islamabad.
• All regular scheduled air transportation in Pakistan. This includes round-trip air flights from Islamabad to Skardu.
• All group gear such as tents, stoves and pots/pans, fuel, ropes, snow, ice & rock protection, VHF radios (we have a base station in our base camp and climbers carry hand held VHF radios), oxygen and other medical items if necessary.
• Climbing permits, garbage deposit and removal fee, liaison officer.
• Use of our satellite phone, and satellite modem for internet access.

Costs Do Not Include:
• Wire Transfer Fee
• Airfare to Islamabad
• Food or Dining in Islamabad and hotel expenses before the program begins, extra days / nights if there is a delay, and after the climber has returned from the climb
• Personal items (see equipment list)
• A medical evacuation insurance is required for this expedition
• Medical Release signed by your doctor
• Any costs that are beyond the control of Madison Mountaineering

Cancellation/Refund Policy
• There are no refunds for the deposit or balance payments for this expedition. This includes but is not limited to, expeditions that conclude without a summit or progress towards a summit for participants due to route conditions, weather, insufficient manpower, or any other factor outside the control of Madison Mountaineering. Expedition leader has the final say on the expedition conclusion and will make all best efforts within our margin of safety.
• Participants that choose to leave an active expedition for any reason are not entitled to any refunds
• Madison Mountaineering, LLC highly recommends trip cancellation insurance for all expeditions
• Due to the nature and heavy costs of government and operator permits, Madison Mountaineering must adhere to a stringent refund policy
• Deposit due with registration materials
• All balances are due 120 days prior to departure date unless otherwise specified
• Participants whose balances are not received by the 120-day deadline as stated above, risk forfeiture of their funds and their place on the expedition

Note: Madison Mountaineering, LLC reserves the right to waive any fees. As we offer personalized service, we will attempt to accommodate changes and cancellations when necessary, waiving certain fees when feasible. Deposits paid by participants acknowledge the above cancellation terms.

Ice Axe: A short ice axe no longer than 60 cm.
Crampons: General mountaineering crampons
Trekking Poles: Adjustable poles for the trek to base camp
Climbing harness: An alpine climbing harness
Carabineers: 4 locking and 2 non locking
Belay / Rappel device: For rappelling or belaying climbers
Helmet: Must fit over a thick hat
Ascender: One right or left hand ascender (Petzl is best)
Prussik Cord: 20’ or 7 meters of 6mm cord.
Light hiking boots or trekking shoes: For the trek to base camp, these can be worn at base camp and as high as camp 2 depending on route conditions.
Mountaineering Boots: A boot for climbing at 20,000’ with ample support for rock & ice climbing such as the La Sportiva Nepal EVO
Socks: Minimum 3 pair thick mountaineering socks and 3 pair liner socks
Short Underwear: 2-3 pair of synthetic short underwear
Long Underwear: 2-3 pair lightweight long underwear pants and shirts. 1 pair of heavy expedition weight long underwear.
Soft Shell Jacket: A hooded jacket
Soft Shell pants: For trekking and climbing
Insulated Jacket: Primaloft or Down
Expedition Down Parka: A hooded down jacket with 800 minimum down fill.
Insulated Pants: Primaloft or Down, these should have full side zippers.
Hard Shell Jacket: To be worn in wet conditions
Hard Shell Pants: To be worn in wet conditions, these pants should have full side zippers.
Headlamp: Bring extra batteries
Warm Hat: A warm fleece or wool hat.
Balaclava: to cover your face and neck on windy days.
Sun hat: A baseball style sun camp.
Buff: To wear around your neck & face to block the wind, UV rays, dust.
Glacier Glasses: wrap around style sunglasses with dark lenses
Goggles: With dark lenses.
Soft Shell Gloves: 1 pair
Shell gloves with insulated liner: 1 pair
Shell mittens with insulated liner: 1 pair
Expedition Backpack: A 40 liter internal frame back pack.
Trekking Backpack: Optional. A small pack for the trek in.
Sleeping Bag: Rated to at least -20 °F. Down is preferable over synthetic.
Compression stuff sacks: for reducing volume for your sleeping bag and down jacket.
Self Inflating pad: A full length air mattress
Closed Cell foam pad: Full length is best
Headlamp: Bring a spare set of batteries
Cup: 16oz. minimum
Bowl: ½ liter minimum capacity
Spoon: Plastic (lexan)
Sunscreen: 2 tubes, SPF 40 or stronger
Lip screen: 2 sticks, SPF 30 or stronger
Thermos: 1 liter capacity
Water bottles: 2 bottles with 1 liter capacity each
Water Purification System: Tablets or Steripen
Water Bottle Parkas: To keep your water from freezing
Pee Bottle: 1 liter capacity minimum
Pee Funnel: For Women
Knife: Optional
Toiletry Bag: Toothpaste, Toothbrush, baby wipes, etc.
Hand Sanitizer: 2 small bottles
Hand warmers / Toe warmers: 3 sets of each
Trash Compactor bags (4): To line stuff sacks and separate gear
Camera: lightweight with extra batteries
Travel Clothes: For days in Kathmandu.
Large Duffel Bag with lock: for transporting all personal gear to base camp.
Small duffel bag: to store items in the hotel
Small Personal First Aid Kit: Athletic tape, band aids, Ibuprofen, Moleskin, blister care products, personal medications, cough drops.

Medications:
• Acetazolamide (Diamox) for altitude illness
• Antibiotics such as Ciprofloxin or Azithromycin for gastro intestinal or respiratory illness
• Ibuprofen for muscle soreness
• Pepto Bismol for loose stool
• Excedrin for headaches, anti nausea medications.

Climbing Snacks:
• Electrolyte Replacement Drink Mix: Bring a supply for 12 days such as Nuun.
• Energy Gel: Single serving gel packs such as GU, Clifshot, Powergel, etc.)
• Energy Bars: Power bar, Cliff bar, etc.

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Carstensz Pyramid, one of the least climbed peaks in the ”7 Summits” is a formidable objective located in Papua, Indonesia. Our expedition begins in the beautiful island of Bali, where we fly to Timika then Sugapa to begin the fly to base camp. Our high-end logistics, local staff, and mountain guide ensure you are well taken care of throughout the expedition. The mountain is limestone that rises from the thick forest below, jutting to just over 16,000’. This rock climb requires basic rock climbing ability to ascents mostly 5th class terrain on fixed ropes.

Note From Garrett: I am very excited to lead this trip to Carstensz Pyramid in autumn of 2019! This expedition will be a “fly in and fly out” as current circumstances in Western Papua necessitate air transport. Our recent expedition to Carstensz utilized air transport and was very successful: expedition dispatches. I look forward to repeating this success and safety with you on this adventure!

Helicopters:
Using helicopters to fly in and out allows us the best chance for an overall successful expedition, reaching the summit and returning safely. Recent logistical difficulties have resulted in some climbers not reaching the mountain, as well as detainment by tribesman and the security company overseeing the mining operation adjacent to the mountain. Until the last few years, trekking was the normal way to access the peak, with heavy reliance on local Dani Tribesman. Helicopter transport, in general, reduces the number of variables in reaching our destination. Utilizing the helicopter also reduces the chance of contracting an illness while trekking, avoids the local politics, and offers easy and reliable evacuation.

Day 1: Arrive in Bali. Transfer to our hotel. Expedition orientation & equipment check.

Day 2: Day tour around Bali, obtain expedition permits and ensure all baggage has arrived.

Day 3: Early morning flight to Timika. Arrive at hotel in Timika, final organization of personal equipment, review climb itinerary.

Day 4: Flight To Carstensz Pyramid Base Camp, the Yellow Valley. Rest and acclimatization in the afternoon, review of ropes, knots and technical climbing.

Day 5: Today we go on a short hike for acclimatization, final review of climb, then return to sleep at base camp.

Day 6: Summit Day! We awake early for an ‘Alpine Start’ and depart base camp in the pre dawn hours for our ascent of the peak.

Day 7: Helicopter flight from Carstensz Pyramid base camp and arrive Timika. We either stay in our hotel or connect to Bali if possible.

Days 8-9: Extra days in case of bad weather, etc.

Day 10: Flight To Bali, stay in hotel, extra day in Bali

Day 11: Depart Bali for home!

Carstensz Pyramid Expedition
$26,500
Deposit: $5,000

2019 Departures:
October 23 – November 2

2020 Departures:
March 16 – March 26
October 23 – November 2

Costs Include:
• Airport pick up and transfer to the hotel upon arrival in Bali
• Helicopter flight from Timika to Carstensz Pyramid Base Camp
• Accommodation (Single Occupancy) in Bali before and after the climb
• All meals on the expedition after departing Bali until return to Bali
• Tents, ropes, and other group climbing equipment
• All expedition logistics including climbing and trekking permits
• All equipment necessary to make a strong and safe attempt for the summit
• All expedition staff including Mountain Guide and local support staff
• 1-2 nights accommodation and meals in Papua one night prior to the climb and one night following the climb
• Transport of 15kg personal equipment from Timika to Base Camp by helicopter (20kg max for internal flight from Bali – Timika)
• Porters assistance if necessary
• Satellite phone for emergency contact

Costs Do Not Include:
‌• Round trip airfare Bali – Timika. Approximate ticket cost is $500 which we will arrange
• International Air travel to and from Denpasar, Indonesia
• Indonesian tourist visa charges and airport taxes
• Personal clothing and equipment
• Meals outside Papua
• Alcoholic beverages
• Bottled or canned beverages
• Specialty coffee or espresso drinks
• Personal travel insurance, trip cancellation insurance and medical or security evacuation insurance
• Any rescue costs or costs of early departure from the expedition
• Costs from arriving early or leaving late
• Overweight baggage charges on the flight to / from Bali – Timika
• Any costs due to flight delays/cancellations
• Additional Helicopters Charters
• Personal domestic excess baggage costs
• Customary gratuities to local expedition staff, porters and guides
• Accommodation in Bali, beyond the 2 nights
• Accommodation in Papua, beyond the 2 nights
• Personal climbing equipment. (See equipment list)
• Incidental Expenses such as Tips, Telephone, Bar, Laundry or other personal expenses.
• Force majeure.
• Costs for delays that are beyond the control of the expedition

Cancellation/Refund Policy
• There are no refunds for the deposit or balance payments for this expedition. This includes but is not limited to, expeditions that conclude without a summit or progress towards a summit for participants due to route conditions, weather, insufficient manpower, or any other factor outside the control of Madison Mountaineering. Expedition leader has the final say on the expedition conclusion and will make all best efforts within our margin of safety.
• Participants that choose to leave an active expedition for any reason are not entitled to any refunds
• Madison Mountaineering, LLC highly recommends trip cancellation insurance for all expeditions
• Due to the nature and heavy costs of government and operator permits, Madison Mountaineering must adhere to a stringent refund policy
• Deposit due with registration materials
• All balances are due 120 days prior to departure date unless otherwise specified
• Participants whose balances are not received by the 120-day deadline as stated above, risk forfeiture of their funds and their place on the expedition

Note: Madison Mountaineering, LLC reserves the right to waive any fees. As we offer personalized service, we will attempt to accommodate changes and cancellations when necessary, waiving certain fees when feasible. Deposits paid by participants acknowledge the above cancellation terms.

Alpine Climbing Harness: A lightweight mountaineering harness.
Locking Carabineers: 3
Rappel device: figure 8
Ascender: 1 (Petzel)
20ft. of 6mm accessory cord
Climbing Helmet: Adjustable
Trekking Poles: Adjustable poles to trek around the area of base camp.
Technical Climbing boots: To wear on the climb, must be waterproof. Good models include the La Sportiva Trango S Evo GTX, La Sportiva Trango Cube, and the Mammut Magic GTX.
Socks: Minimum 2 pair thick mountaineering socks and 2 pair liner socks
Rain Boots: waterproof rubber rain boots for use in base camp wet conditions
Short Underwear: 1-2 pair of synthetic short underwear
Long Underwear: 1-2 pair lightweight long underwear pants and shirts. 1 pair of heavy expedition weight long underwear.
Lightweight Trekking Pants: for wearing around base camp.
Soft Shell Jacket: A hooded jacket
Soft Shell Pants: For trekking and climbing
Insulated Jacket: PrimaLoft or Down
Insulated Pants: PrimaLoft or Down, these should have full side zippers.
Hard Shell Jacket: To be worn in wet conditions
Hard Shell Pants: To be worn in wet conditions, these pants should have full side zippers.
Warm Hat: A warm fleece or wool hat.
Balaclava: to cover your face and neck on windy days.
Sun hat: A baseball style sun camp.
Buff: 1-2 of these to wear around your neck & face to block the wind, UV rays, dust.
Glacier Glasses: wrap around style sunglasses with dark lenses
Soft Shell Gloves: 1 pair
Leather Rappel Gloves: 1 pair
Alpine Backpack: A 35 liter internal frame back pack.
Sleeping Bag: Rated to at least 20 °F. Down is preferable over synthetic.
Compression stuff sacks: for reducing volume for your sleeping bag and down jacket.
Self Inflating pad: A full length air mattress
Closed Cell foam pad: Full length is best
Headlamp: Bring a spare set of batteries
Cup: 16oz. minimum
Bowl: ½ liter minimum capacity
Spoon: Plastic (lexan)
Sunscreen: SPF 50 or stronger
Lipscreen: SPF 30 or stronger
Water bottles: 2 bottles with 1 liter capacity each
Water Purification System: Tablets or Steripen
Pee Bottle: 1 liter capacity minimum
Pee Funnel: For Women
Knife: Optional
Toiletry Bag: Toothpaste, Toothbrush, baby wipes, etc.
Hand Sanitizer: 2 small bottles
Umbrella: A small and sturdy model
Trash Compactor bags (4): To line stuff sacks and separate gear
Camera: lightweight with extra batteries
Travel Clothes: For days in Timika / Sugapa.
Large Duffel Bag with lock: for transporting all personal gear to base camp.
Small Duffel Bag: to store items in the hotel in Bali.
Small Personal First Aid Kit: Athletic tape, band aids, Ibuprofen, Moleskin, blister care products, personal medications, cough drops.

Medications:
‌• Acetazolamide (Diamox) for altitude illness
‌• Antibiotics such as Ciprofloxin or Azithromycin for gastro intestinal or respiratory illness
‌• Ibuprofen for muscle soreness
‌• Pepto Bismol for loose stool
‌• Excedrin for headaches, anti nausea medications.

Climbing Snacks:
‌• Electrolyte Replacement Drink Mix: Bring a supply for 12 days such as Nuun.
‌• Energy Gel: Single serving gel packs such as GU, Clifshot, Powergel, etc.
‌• Energy Bars: Power bar, Cliff bar, etc.
‌• Candy Bars: Snickers, Mars, Twix, Milkey Way, etc.
‌• Hard Candy: 1 cup
‌• Crackers: 1 box

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Chopicalqui and Pisco!

Join us in the Cordillera Blanca of Peru for some fantastic climbing on peaks up to nearly 6400m (21,000 ft) high. We will climb Pisco first (5752m/18,871 ft), and then attempt the nearby Chopicalqui (6354m/20,846 ft) second. The setting is spectacular, with these and many other jagged high peaks covered in snow, with lush meadows and grasslands below, in addition to crystal clear blue lakes. These peaks are excellent training for higher altitude climbs and are great for building upon technical climbing skills such as cramponing, rope travel, and ice axe technique. We have ample time for acclimatization and utilize high camps to position us for the summit attempts. This is one of our favorite programs in the Andes. The local Peruvians / Quechuas we work with are very positive and engaging, and we are blessed to share time with them in the mountains at our base camp and the high camps.

Day 1: Arrive in Lima, Peru.

Day 2: We board our private air-conditioned bus and make the scenic drive to Huaraz. Along the way, we see the coastline and stop for a traditional lunch. We arrive at our hotel in the evening and begin acclimatizing that night, with an elevation of approximately 3000m or 10,000 ft.

Day 3: We spend the day organizing gear and acclimating in Huaraz. A mountain bike ride is optional. We enjoy a nice dinner and sleep in our hotel again.

Day 4: We drive through the countryside and beautiful lakes to the beginning of the hike to Pisco base camp. After unloading from the bus we make the short hike to our camp and settle in for the night.

Day 5: We make a carry to our Camp 1 on Pisco and return to base camp to sleep.

Day 6: After a leisurely breakfast we pack up and climb to our Camp 1, and review some technical climbing skills.

Day 7: We review climbing skills and continue acclimating.

Day 8: We negotiate the rocky moraine and climb up to our Camp 2, adjacent to the glacier. We go to bed early in preparation for an alpine start!

Day 9: We awake early and after a quick breakfast, depart camp to climb the glaciated slopes leading up to the Col, then make our way through crevasses and up steeper slopes to the summit (5752m/18,871 ft). The views are spectacular and we can see many of the high peaks in the Andes. We return to camp and continue back down to our base camp.

Day 10: Today we relax in base camp and have an optional afternoon hike to a beautiful nearby lake.

Day 11: Now that we are acclimated and rested after climbing Pisco, we focus on our next challenge: Chopicalqui. We depart camp and climb to an intermediate camp on Chopicalqui.

Day 12: Today we make a carry to the high camp, climbing the glaciated slopes, then return to intermediate camp to sleep.

Day 13: Move to high camp. We rest in the afternoon and go to bed early in preparation for another alpine start!

Day 14: Summit day!! We awake before dawn and after a quick breakfast head out onto the glaciated slopes, climbing varying degrees of snow and ice, a ridge line, and a few steep sections, then reach the summit (6354m/20,846 ft). The summit is small and well defined, and a worthy accomplishment! We descend and sleep in our intermediate camp.

Day 15: We return to our base camp, pack up camp, and make the short hike to our private bus, then drive back to Huaraz where we check into our hotel and enjoy the comforts of civilization!

Day 16: We drive from Huaraz in our bus to Lima, then depart for home that evening.

June 15-30, 2019

Cost: $5,150
Deposit: $1,800

Costs Include:
• Airport pickup upon arrival in Lima
• Welcome dinner
• Accommodations in Lima for 1 night upon arrival, 2 nights in Huaraz before the climbs and then 1 night in Huaraz after the climbs
• All ground transport during the expedition
• All group gear such as tents, cooking equipment, climbing gear, etc.
• Communications equipment (VHF handheld radios)
• All food and meals on the mountains
• Western guide
• Peruvian support staff including cooks, porters, base camp manager

Costs Do Not Include:
• Bank transfer fees, if applicable
• Airfare to Peru
• Meals in Lima or Huaraz
• All expenses incurred for an early departure from the expedition
• Medical and evacuation insurance, trip cancellation insurance
• Personal items (see gear list)

Cancellation/Refund Policy
• There are no refunds for the deposit or balance payments for this expedition. This includes but is not limited to, expeditions that conclude without a summit or progress towards a summit for participants due to route conditions, weather, insufficient manpower, or any other factor outside the control of Madison Mountaineering. Expedition leader has the final say on the expedition conclusion and will make all best efforts within our margin of safety.
• Participants that choose to leave an active expedition for any reason are not entitled to any refunds
• Madison Mountaineering, LLC highly recommends trip cancellation insurance for all expeditions
• Due to the nature and heavy costs of government and operator permits, Madison Mountaineering must adhere to a stringent refund policy
• Deposit due with registration materials
• All balances are due 120 days prior to departure date unless otherwise specified
• Participants whose balances are not received by the 120-day deadline as stated above, risk forfeiture of their funds and their place on the expedition

Note: Madison Mountaineering, LLC reserves the right to waive any fees. As we offer personalized service, we will attempt to accommodate changes and cancellations when necessary, waiving certain fees when feasible. Deposits paid by participants acknowledge the above cancellation terms.

Ice Axe: General mountaineering tool (65cm)
Crampons: General mountaineering crampons
Climbing Helmet: Must be able to fit over your ski hat
Ascender: 1 right or left hand ascender (Petzel brand is best)
Alpine Climbing Harness: A mountaineering harness, with adjustable leg loops. Not a rock climbing “sport” harness.
Carabineers: 3 locking and 3 regular
Rappel device: ATC or figure 8
Mountaineering boots: Nepal Evo, Koflach Arctis Expe, etc.
Hiking shoes: comfortable boots or shoes for walking around base camps.
Booties: Optional, down is best.
Wool or synthetic socks: 6 pair
Liner socks: 3 pair
Synthetic Short underwear: A non cotton style underwear.
Lightweight Long Underwear: 2-3 pair long sleeve shirt and long pants
Heavyweight long underwear: 1 pair
Short Sleeve Synthetic Shirt: 1-2 pair
Lightweight Nylon Pants: 1-2 pair
Soft Shell jacket: With or without hood
Soft Shell Pants: With accessory side pockets
Hard Shell Jacket with hood: A waterproof and breathable shell jacket
Hard Shell Pants: Waterproof and breathable shell pants
Down Parka with hood: This “puffy” jacket we wear when taking breaks and sometimes when climbing on a cold summit day.
Insulated synthetic Pants: These are nice to have when climbing on summit day.
Synthetic or wool hat (ski hat).
Balaclava: to protect your neck and face in high winds.
Baseball Cap or other sun hat: To shade your face / neck from the sun on a hot day.
Bandana or Buff: To protect your neck / face from the sun.
Glacier glasses: Full protection with side covers or wrap around.
Ski goggles: To be worn on summit day in the event of high winds.
Lightweight synthetic liner gloves: For wearing on a hot day.
Soft shell gloves: To wear for moderate cold / wind.
Shell glove with insulated liner: To wear for severe cold / strong wind.
Expedition Mitts: Large enough to fit a liner glove inside.
Expedition Backpack: 50L pack should be large enough.
Sleeping Bag: rated to at least -20°F.
Compression stuff sacks: For reducing volume of the sleeping bag, down parka, etc., in your pack.
Self inflating sleeping pad: Full length is preferred.
Closed cell foam pad: To be used in conjunction with the inflating pad for warmth and comfort when sleeping.
Trekking poles: Adjustable
Cup: A plastic 16 oz. minimum cup or mug
Bowl: A plastic bowl for eating dinner or breakfast out of
Spoon: Plastic spoon (lexan)
Headlamp: With 2 extra sets of new batteries
Sunscreen: SPF 50 or better
Lip screen: SPF 30 or better (2 sticks).
Water bottles: 2 or 3 wide mouth bottles with 1 liter capacity.
Water bottle parkas (2): fully insulated with zip opening.
Thermos: 1 liter
Pee bottle: 1 liter minimum bottle for convenience at night in the tent.
Toiletry bag: Include toilet paper and hand sanitizer and small towel
Hand warmers & toe warmers: 2 sets of each. Or use Hot Tronics for foot warmer system for summit days.
Knife or multi tool (optional).
Trash compactor bags: to line back pack and stuff sacks in the event of rain or wet snow is falling on us.
Camera: bring extra batteries and memory cards.
Travel Clothes: For days in Lima / Huaraz.
Duffel bags (2) with locks: To transport equipment.
Base Camp Items: Kindle, Ipad, smart phone, etc.
Snack food: Please bring a few days of your favorite climbing snack food such as bars, gels, nuts, beef jerky, etc. A variety of salty and sweet is good.
Small personal first aid kit: Include athletic tape, band aids, Ibuprofen, blister care, personal medications, etc.
Medications and Prescriptions: Bring antibiotics (Azithromycin, etc.), and altitude medicine such as Diamox, Dexamethasone, Tadalafil.

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Our 2018 ’First Ascent of an Unclimbed Peak’ was successful!, click here to read the recap of this historical climb.

Join us in the autumn of 2019 for another historic ’first ascent’ of a 22,000’+ unclimbed peak in Nepal. This mountain is relatively nearby Mount Everest, and is unclimbed, presenting a beautiful line to the summit. The peak is approximately 6,500m – 7000m and presents significant technical challenges such as steep snow / ice, as well as route finding, glacier travel and ridge climbing. We will begin our expedition in Kathmandu, then fly into Lukla and begin trekking to the base camp. From here we will have at least two higher camps on the mountain. We will have sherpa support and plan to use fixed ropes where appropriate, and stock our high camps with plenty of food, equipment, etc. After studying the mountain and climbing route we are very excited to test ourselves and explore this new area. We also are offering an Ama Dablam extension as an option to this program. This will surely be an incredible adventure!

If you are interested please contact our office for more details (+1-844-526-3629), or email garrett@madisonmountaineering.com. We are also offering a trek to the base camp that will accompany the climbing group for individuals such as friends or family members who would like to participate. The trekking group will spend one night in base camp and then return via a different route, visiting Everest base camp, then returning to Lukla and flying back to Kathmandu. If you are interested in the trek please contact us for details (+1-844-526-3629), or email garrett@madisonmountaineering.com. The cost will be commensurate with the Everest base camp trek.

”I was part of many mountaineering expeditions for the last 30 years, but Garrett and Madison Mountaineering with whom I was in Himalaya – Oct/Nov 2015 are unparalleled. Garrett possesses extraordinary knowledge, skills, expertise, passion for climbing, and especially – cares about every member of his team. Something like that I haven’t met so far and I would happily recommend them to anyone who wants to climb any demanding mountain in the world.” –Naim / Nick Logic, Phoenix, AZ

Climbing Team:

Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu, Transfer to Hotel

Day 02: Preparation day / city tour

Day 03: Fly Kathmandu to Lukla. Trek to Phakding

Day 04: Trek to Namche Bazar.

Day 05: Rest and Acclimatization in Namche Bazar.

Day 06: Trek to Khumjung.

Day 07: Trek to Dole.

Day 08: Trek to Macchermo

Day 09: Trek to Gokyo Lake

Day 10: Rest and Acclimatization in Gokyo

Day 11-12: Trek to base camp (5,357m)

Day 13-23: Climbing Period

Day 24: Cleaning up Base Camp

Day 25: Trek back to Gokyo

Day 26: Trek Back to Dole

Day 27: Trek back to Monjo

Day 28: Trek back to Lukla

Day 29: Fly back to Kathmandu. Transfer to Hotel.

Day 30: Depart for home country

Trekking Team:

Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu, Transfer to Hotel

Day 02: Preparation day / city tour

Day 03: Fly Kathmandu to Lukla. Trek to Phakding

Day 04: Trek to Namche Bazar.

Day 05: Rest and Acclimatization in Namche Bazar.

Day 06: Trek to Khumjung.

Day 07: Trek to Dole.

Day 08: Trek to Macchermo

Day 09: Trek to Gokyo Lake

Day 10: Rest and Acclimatization in Gokyo

Day 11-12: Trek to base camp (5,357m)

Day 13: Rest in base camp

Day 14: Trek over Cho La Pass, sleep in Gorak Shep

Day 15: Visit Everest base camp and return to Gorak Shep

Day 16: Climb Kala Pattar and descend to Perhiche

Day 17: Trek to Debuche

Day 18: Trek to Namche

Day 19: Trek to Lukla

Day 20: Fly Lukla to Kathmandu

Day 21: Rest day in Kathmandu

Day 22: Depart Kathmandu for home country

First Ascent Expedition (Approx. 6500m)
October 20 – November 18, 2019

Cost: $22,500 per person
Deposit: $9,000

Ama Dablam Extension: $8,950

Trek Dates:
October 20-November 10

Trek Cost: $4,850
Deposit: $1,500

Costs Include:
• Airport pick up in Kathmandu
• 3 night accommodations in Kathmandu at Yak & Yeti Hotel, 2 nights before and 1 night after the expedition.
• Welcome dinner in Kathmandu
• Lodging for all nights during the trek to and from base camp.
• Tents during the climb.
• All food during the trek and climb. We provide high quality food from the USA and Nepal. If you have specific dietary requirements, please give us specific details and we will accommodate your needs!
• All transportation in Nepal, including round-trip flights from Kathmandu to Lukla & Lukla to Kathmandu. Helicopter out of base camp after expedition is available as an optional upgrade.
• All group equipment needed to climb the mountain: cooking gear, fuel, stoves, ropes, all forms of rock, ice, and snow protection, radio communications, medical supplies, etc.
• Sat phone is available at $3 per minute.
• Sherpa, porters, liaison officer, camp staff and guides.
• All administration fees owed to Nepal, including climbing permits.

Costs Do Not Include:
• $25 Wire Transfer Fee (If Applicable)
• International round-trip airfare (Home Country-Nepal-Home Country).
• Meals in Kathmandu and extra hotel nights after the trek / climb (once the climber has left the mountain).
• Personal gear, clothing and sleeping equipment (see gear list).
• Trip cancellation insurance. This is highly recommended and can be purchased at Travelex Insurance. A comprehensive medical and evacuation insurance policy is required to embark on this expedition. Please use location agent #47-0224 to get your policy attached to Madison Mountaineering. The Travel Select with the Adventure Pack will include mountaineering on the policy. Click here for the Travelex Insurance Adventure Pack
• Comprehensive medical exam: A physician signed Medical Release Form is required.
• Alcoholic beverages and bottled drinks.
• All expenses incurred in the event of early departure (evacuation fees, transport, extra hotel nights, etc.)
• Personal Items
• Charges incurred as a result of delays beyond the control of Madison Mountaineering, LLC.
• Personal communication (phone, fax, e-mail) between Nepal and home country.
• Gratuity for western guide.
• Sherpa summit bonus, staff tips.

Cancellation/Refund Policy
• There are no refunds for the deposit or balance payments for this expedition. This includes but is not limited to, expeditions that conclude without a summit or progress towards a summit for participants due to route conditions, weather, insufficient manpower, or any other factor outside the control of Madison Mountaineering. Expedition leader has the final say on the expedition conclusion and will make all best efforts within our margin of safety.
• Participants that choose to leave an active expedition for any reason are not entitled to any refunds
• Madison Mountaineering, LLC highly recommends trip cancellation insurance for all expeditions
• Due to the nature and heavy costs of government and operator permits, Madison Mountaineering must adhere to a stringent refund policy
• Deposit due with registration materials
• All balances are due 120 days prior to departure date unless otherwise specified
• Participants whose balances are not received by the 120-day deadline as stated above, risk forfeiture of their funds and their place on the expedition

Note: Madison Mountaineering, LLC reserves the right to waive any fees. As we offer personalized service, we will attempt to accommodate changes and cancellations when necessary, waiving certain fees when feasible. Deposits paid by participants acknowledge the above cancellation terms.

Please contact us if you have specific questions, we are happy to discuss all details of this program.

Ice Axe: General mountaineering tool (65cm)
Crampons: General mountaineering crampons
Climbing Helmet: Must be able to fit over your ski hat
Ascender: 1 right or left hand ascender (Petzel brand is best)
Alpine Climbing Harness: A mountaineering harness, with adjustable leg loops. Not a rock climbing “sport” harness.
Carabiners: 3 locking and 3 regular
Rappel device: ATC or figure 8
Mountaineering boots: Olympus Mons, Millet, ect.
Hiking shoes: comfortable boots or shoes for the trek to base camp.
Camp boots: comfortable boots for wearing in camp.
Booties: Optional, down is best.
Wool or synthetic socks: 6 pair
Liner socks: 3 pair
Synthetic Short underwear: A non cotton style underwear.
Lightweight Long Underwear: 2-3 pair longsleve shirt and long pants
Heavyweight long underwear: 1 pair
Short Sleeve Synthetic Shirt: 1-2 pair
Lightweight Nylon Pants: 1-2 pair
Soft Shell jacket: With or without hood
Soft Shell Pants: With accessory side pockets
Hard Shell Jacket with hood: A waterproof and breathable shell jacket
Hard Shell Pants: Waterproof and breathable shell pants
Down Parka with hood: This “puffy” jacket we wear when taking breaks.
Insulated synthetic Pants: With full side zips.
Down Suit: Optional. Feathered Friends, Sherpa, North Face, Mountain Hardwear, etc.
Synthetic or wool hat (ski hat).
Balaclava: to protect your neck and face in high winds.
Baseball Cap or other sun hat: To shade your face / neck from the sun on a hot day.
Bandana or Buff: To protect your neck / face from the sun.
Glacier glasses: Full protection with side covers or wrap around.
Ski goggles: To be worn on summit day in the event of high winds.
Lightweight synthetic liner gloves: For wearing on a hot day.
Soft shell gloves: To wear for moderate cold / wind.
Shell glove with insulated liner: To wear for severe cold / strong wind.
Expedition Mitts: Large enough to fit a liner glove inside.
Expedition Backpack: 65L pack should be large enough.
Trekking Backpack: To carry on the trek to base camp. Simple and light.
Sleeping Bag (for high camps): Rated to at least -40°F. Goose down or synthetic.
Sleeping Bag (for base camp): rated to at least -20°F.
Compression stuff sacks: For reducing volume of the sleeping bag, down parka, etc., in your pack.
Self inflating sleeping pad (1 for base camp and 1 for high camps): Full length is preferred.
Closed cell foam pad: To be used in conjunction with the inflating pad for warmth and comfort when sleeping.
Trekking poles: Adjustable
Cup: A plastic 16 oz. minimum cup or mug
Bowl: A plastic bowl for eating dinner or breakfast
Spoon: Plastic spoon (lexan)
Headlamp: With 2 extra sets of new batteries
Sunscreen: SPF 50 or better
Lipscreen: SPF 30 or better (2 sticks).
Water bottles: 2 or 3 wide mouth bottles with 1 liter capacity.
Water bottle parkas (2): fully insulated with zip opening.
Thermos: 1 liter
Pee bottle: 1 liter minimum bottle for convenience at night in the tent.
Toiletry bag: Include toilet paper and hand sanitizer and small towel
Hand warmers & toe warmers: 3 sets of each. Or use Hot Tronics for foot warmer system.
Knife or multi tool (optional).
Trash compactor bags: to line back pack and stuff sacks in the event of rain or wet snow is falling on us.
Camera: Bring extra batteries and memory cards.
Travel Clothes: For days in Kathmandu.
Duffel bags (2) with locks: To transport equipment.
Base Camp Items: Kindle, Ipad, smart phone, etc.
Snack food: Please bring a few days of your favorite climbing snack food such as bars, gels, nuts, beef jerky, etc. A variety of salty and sweet is good.
Small personal first aid kit: Include athletic tape, band aids, Ibuprofin, blister care, personal medications, etc.
Medications and Prescriptions: Bring antibiotics (Azithromycin, etc.), and altitude medicine such as Diamox and dexamethasone.

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As Expedition Leader and Guide for 6 years running, Garrett Madison has overseen all aspects for his teams related to planning, organization, and climbing on Everest / Lhotse. As one of the best known “Expedition Leaders” on Everest / Lhotse, Garrett has personally accompanied 37 climbers (clients) to the summit over the last 7 years (as well as many co guides and climbing Sherpas), and 4 to the summit of Lhotse, more than any other American. Garrett has recently climbed Lhotse (4th highest mountain) two times, in guiding climbers on the “peak to peak” combination in under 24 hours. Garrett has been part of many “firsts” on Everest, however, his proudest accomplishment is a 100% safety record.

Mt. Everest, known by the Nepalese / Sherpas as Sagarmatha and by the Tibetans as Chomolungma, is the world’s highest peak at 29,035’ (8850m) and is the border between Nepal and Tibet. Since the 1920s, many of the world’s top climbers have attempted to scale Everest, and May 29th 1953 marked the first successful ascent by Tenzing Norgay (Nepal) and Sir Edmund Hillary (New Zealand). Madison Mountaineering offers an unparalleled opportunity to climb Everest with small teams, top guides/Sherpas, and a focus on safety, summit success, and enjoying the experience of Everest throughout the expedition.

Now leading his 7th expedition to Everest (the last 6 years as ‘Expedition Leader’), Garrett Madison has reached the top 6 times (once per expedition), a very rare if not unmatched record for a guide. Garrett has personally guided more climbers (37) over the last 5 years than any other American mountain guide. This vast amount of organizational and logistical experience, combined with a commitment to provide the best possible services to ensure safety and success, make Madison Mountaineering the premier boutique guiding company on Everest. Enjoying the experience is a high priority, and our climbers can attest to having a great time throughout! Our teams are different than the large scale operations where climbers are slotted into specific dates for rotations and summit attempts, and may be one of many people sitting down to eat in the dining tent, or dealing with illness spreading throughout the group. Often these large groups have only a leader who remains in base camp, while with our team your leader climbs with you to the summit. By keeping our team small yet highly supported, we don’t compromise our standards in providing the best strategy, flexibility, and resources needed to succeed in the dynamic environment that is Everest. The equation for success and safety involves variables that can and often rapidly change such as:

• Weather (wind speed, precipitation, temperature)
• Acclimatization and health
• Climbing route (the route often changes daily through the Khumbu Icefall)
• Other climbers and teams (climbers needing assistance, evacuation, as well as periodic overcrowding on the route) Some teams now bring over 100+ Climbers and Sherpas, hardly an intimate experience!

We can quickly adjust to changing conditions better than any other team. We have the best communication systems available to monitor the weather (along with a dedicated meteorologist), to communicate with other teams on the mountain to collaborate on the route, weather, rescues, and summit schedule. We have an experienced base camp manager, a menu plan developed by a certified nutritionist, and a helicopter available that can evacuate an injured or ill climber if necessary from as high as Camp 3. Our Sherpas are among the finest and most respected on the mountain. We are a team that works together to accomplish our common goals of safety, success, and having fun. If you would like to know more, we invite you to contact us!

Please contact us to learn about our finely tuned acclimatization and climbing strategy.

Lhotse Climb:
April 1 – May 31, 2020

Cost: $44,500
Deposit: $15,500

Cancellation/Refund Policy
• There are no refunds for the deposit or balance payments for this expedition. This includes but is not limited to, expeditions that conclude without a summit or progress towards a summit for participants due to route conditions, weather, insufficient manpower, or any other factor outside the control of Madison Mountaineering. Expedition leader has the final say on the expedition conclusion and will make all best efforts within our margin of safety.
• Participants that choose to leave an active expedition for any reason are not entitled to any refunds
• Madison Mountaineering, LLC highly recommends trip cancellation insurance for all expeditions
• Due to the nature and heavy costs of government and operator permits, Madison Mountaineering must adhere to a stringent refund policy
• Deposit due with registration materials
• All balances are due 120 days prior to departure date unless otherwise specified
• Participants whose balances are not received by the 120-day deadline as stated above, risk forfeiture of their funds and their place on the expedition

Note: Madison Mountaineering, LLC reserves the right to waive any fees. As we offer personalized service, we will attempt to accommodate changes and cancellations when necessary, waiving certain fees when feasible. Deposits paid by participants acknowledge the above cancellation terms.

• Ice Axe: General mountaineering tool (65cm)
• Crampons: General mountaineering crampons
• Climbing Helmet: Must be able to fit over your ski hat
• Ascender: 1 right or left hand ascender (Petzel brand is best)
• Alpine Climbing Harness: A mountaineering harness, with adjustable leg loops. Not a rock climbing “sport” harness.
• Carabiners: 3 locking and 3 regular
• Rappel device: ATC or figure 8
• Mountaineering boots: Olympus Mons, Millet, ect.
• Hiking shoes: comfortable boots or shoes for the trek to base camp.
• Camp boots: comfortable boots for wearing in camp.
• Booties: Optional, down is best.
• Wool or synthetic socks: 6 pair
• Liner socks: 3 pair
• Synthetic Short underwear: A non cotton style underwear.
• Lightweight Long Underwear: 2-3 pair longsleve shirt and long pants
• Heavyweight long underwear: 1 pair
• Short Sleeve Synthetic Shirt: 1-2 pair
• Lightweight Nylon Pants: 1-2 pair
• Soft Shell jacket: To be worn over other layers
• Soft Shell Pants: Very breathable and water repellant
• Hard Shell Jacket with hood: A waterproof and breathable shell jacket
• Hard Shell Pants: Waterproof and breathable shell pants
• Insulated Down Jacket with hood: We primarily wear this when climbing below Camp 2.
• Insulated synthetic Pants: Worn primarily when climbing below Camp 2.
• Down Suit: Feathered Friends, Sherpa, North Face, Mountain Hardwear, etc. We wear this climbing above Camp 2.
• Warm Hat: Synthetic or wool hat (ski hat).
• Balaclava: to protect your neck and face in high winds.
• Baseball Camp or other sun hat: To shade your face / neck from the sun on a hot day.
• Bandana or Buff: To protect your neck / face from the sun.
• Glacier glasses: Full protection with side covers or wrap around.
• Ski goggles: To be worn on summit day in the event of high winds.
• Lightweight synthetic liner gloves: For wearing on a hot day.
• Soft shell gloves: To wear for moderate cold / wind.
• Shell glove with insulated liner: To wear for severe cold / strong wind.
• Expedition Mitts: Large enough to fit a liner glove inside.
• Expedition Backpack: 65L pack should be large enough.
• Trekking Backpack: To carry on the trek to base camp. Simple and light.
• Sleeping Bag (for high camps): Rated to at least -40°F. Goose down or synthetic.
• Sleeping Bag (for base camp): rated to at least -20°F.
• Compression stuff sacks: For reducing volume of the sleeping bag, down parka, etc., in your pack.
• Self inflating sleeping pad (1 for base camp and 1 for high camps): Full length is preferred.
• Closed cell foam pad: To be used in conjunction with the inflating pad for warmth and comfort when sleeping.
• Trekking poles with snow baskets: Adjustable poles
• Cup: A plastic 16 oz. minimum cup or mug
• Bowl: A plastic bowl for eating dinner or breakfast out of
• Spoon: Plastic spoon (lexan)
• Headlamp: With 2 extra sets of new batteries
• Sunscreen: SPF 50 or better
• Lipscreen: SPF 30 or better (2 sticks).
• Water bottles: 2 or 3 wide mouth bottles with 1 liter capacity.
• Water bottle parkas (2): fully insulated with zip opening.
• Thermos: 1 liter
• Pee bottle: 1 liter minimum bottle for convenience at night in the tent.
• Toiletry bag: Include toilet paper and hand sanitizer and small towel
• Hand warmers & toe warmers: 3 sets of each. Or use Hot Tronics for food warmer system.
• Knife or multi tool (optional).
• Trash compactor bags: to line back pack and stuff sacks as well as for separating gear.
• Camera: bring extra batteries and memory cards.
• Travel Clothes: For days in Kathmandu.
• Duffel bags (2) with locks: To transport equipment.
• Base Camp Items: Kindle, Ipad, smart phone, etc.
• Snack food: Please bring a few days of your favorite climbing snack food such as bars, gels, nuts, beef jerky, etc. A variety of salty and sweet is good.
• Small personal first aid kit: Include athletic tape, band aids, Ibuprofin, blister care, personal medications, etc.
• Medications and Prescriptions: Bring antibiotics (Azithromycin, etc.), and altitude medicine such as Diamox and dexamethasone.

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We are very excited to offer Makalu, the world’s 5th highest mountain. At just under 28,000’ Makalu is located only twelve miles from Mt. Everest in Nepal. The climb is technical, involving steep snow, ice, and rock at high altitude. We begin in Kathmandu, then fly to Lukla to acclimate for a day. Another flight to Tumlingtar takes us into the Makalu region, where we begin the 8 day trek to base camp. Upon arriving base camp we organize loads and begin setting lines to our high camps, acclimating as go higher, then returning to base camp to rest and evaluate the weather window for a summit attempt!​

We regularly organize custom programs for private groups. We are happy to accommodate your program dates, as well as other specific requests related to the itinerary, amenities, and group size. Please contact us if you would like to know more about custom programs.

Day 1: Pickup from Airport to Hotel

Day 2: Briefing at Ministry of Tourism

Day 3: Flight Kathmandu to Lukla

Day 4: Rest Day at Lukla

Day 5: Lukla to Yangle Kharka via by Helicopter

Day 6: Rest Day at Yangle Kharka

Day 7: Yangle Kharka to Langmale

Day 8: Langmale to Makalu Base Camp

Day 9 – 35: Climbing Period

Day 36: Trek BC to Yangle Kharka

Day 37: Trek Yangle to Khongma

Day 38: Trek Khongma to Tashigau

Day 39: Trek Tashigau to Num

Day 40: Trek Num to Khadbari

Day 41: Drive Khadbari to Tumlingtar- Flight Tumlingtar to Kathmandu

Day 42: Free Day In Kathmandu

Day 43: Final Departure from KTM-Fly back to home.

Makalu Climb: $48,000
Deposit: $12,000
Balance due 120 days prior to departure

2019 Departures:
August 31 – October 12

Costs Include:
• Airport pick up
• Welcome dinner in Kathmandu
• American mountain guide, support staff, porters, cooks, climbing Sherpas
• Accommodations in Kathmandu (1 night) before the expedition, and (1 night) after the expedition.
• High-quality lodges will be provided during the trek, and tents will be provided during the climb.
• We provide all meals during the trek and climb. We bring high-quality food from the US and source local organic food from Nepal for this expedition (think real maple syrup and bacon!). We are happy to accommodate your dietary needs!
• All ground transportation in Kathmandu.
• All regular scheduled air transportation in Nepal. This includes round-trip air flights from Kathmandu to Tumlingtar.
• All group gear such as tents, stoves and pots/pans, fuel, ropes, snow, ice & rock protection, VHF radios (we have a base station in our base camp and climbers carry handheld VHF radios), oxygen and other medical items if necessary.
• Climbing permits, garbage deposit and removal fee, liaison officer
• Use of our satellite phone, and satellite modem for internet access

Costs Do Not Include:
• Wire Transfer Fee
• Airfare to Nepal
• Food or Dining in Kathmandu and hotel expenses before the program begins, and after the climber has departed from the Khumbu Valley
• Personal items (see equipment list)
• Medical evacuation insurance is required for this expedition
• Medical Release signed by your doctor
• Any costs that are beyond the control of Madison Mountaineering

Cancellation/Refund Policy
• There are no refunds for the deposit or balance payments for this expedition. This includes but is not limited to, expeditions that conclude without a summit or progress towards a summit for participants due to route conditions, weather, insufficient manpower, or any other factor outside the control of Madison Mountaineering. Expedition leader has the final say on the expedition conclusion and will make all best efforts within our margin of safety.
• Participants that choose to leave an active expedition for any reason are not entitled to any refunds
• Madison Mountaineering, LLC highly recommends trip cancellation insurance for all expeditions
• Due to the nature and heavy costs of government and operator permits, Madison Mountaineering must adhere to a stringent refund policy
• Deposit due with registration materials
• All balances are due 120 days prior to departure date unless otherwise specified
• Participants whose balances are not received by the 120-day deadline as stated above, risk forfeiture of their funds and their place on the expedition

Note: Madison Mountaineering, LLC reserves the right to waive any fees. As we offer personalized service, we will attempt to accommodate changes and cancellations when necessary, waiving certain fees when feasible. Deposits paid by participants acknowledge the above cancellation terms.

• Ice Axe: A short ice axe no longer than 60 cm.
• Crampons: General mountaineering crampons
• Trekking Poles: Adjustable poles for the trek to base camp
• Climbing harness: An alpine climbing harness
• Carabiners: 4 locking and 2 non locking
• Belay / Rappel device: For rapelling or belaying climbers
• Helmet: Must fit over a thick hat
• Ascender: One right or left hand ascender (Petzl is best)
• Prussik Cord: 20’ or 7 meters of 6mm cord.
• Light hiking boots or trekking shoes: For the trek to base camp, these can be worn at base camp and as high as camp 2 depending on route conditions.
• Mountaineering Boots: A boot with a built in gaiter such as the La Sportiva Olympus Mons, Millet Everest, Scarpa 8000, etc.
• Socks: Minimum 3 pair thick mountaineering socks and 3 pair liner socks
• Short Underwear: 2-3 pair of synthetic short underwear
• Long Underwear: 2-3 pair lightweight long underwear pants and shirts. 1 pair of heavy expedition weight long underwear.
• Soft Shell Jacket: A hooded jacket
• Soft Shell pants: For trekking and climbing
• Insulated Jacket: Primaloft or Down
• Expedition Down Parka: A hooded down jacket with 800 minimum down fill.
• Insulated Pants: Primaloft or Down, these should have full side zippers.
• Hard Shell Jacket: To be worn in wet conditions
• Hard Shell Pants: To be worn in wet conditions, these pants should have full side zippers.
• Headlamp: Bring extra batteries
• Warm Hat: A warm fleece or wool hat.
• Balaclava: to cover your face and neck on windy days.
• Sun hat: A baseball style sun camp.
• Buff: 1-3 of these to wear around your neck & face to block the wind, UV rays, dust.
• Glacier Glasses: wrap around style sunglasses with dark lenses
• Goggles: With dark lenses.
• Soft Shell Gloves: 1 pair
• Shell gloves with insulated liner: 1 pair
• Shell mittens with insulated liner: 1 pair
• Expedition Backpack: A 65 liter internal frame back pack.
• Trekking Backpack: Optional. A small pack for the trek in.
• Sleeping Bag: Rated to at least -20 °F. Down is preferable over synthetic.
• Compression stuff sacks: for reducing volume for your sleeping bag and down jacket.
• Self Inflating pad: A full length air mattress
• Closed Cell foam pad: Full length is best
• Headlamp: Bring a spare set of batteries
• Cup: 16oz. minimum
• Bowl: ½ liter minimum capacity
• Spoon: Plastic (lexan)
• Sunscreen: 2 tubes, SPF 40 or stronger
• Lipscreen: 2 sticks, SPF 30 or stronger
• Thermos: 1 liter capacity
• Water bottles: 2 bottles with 1 liter capacity each
• Water Purification System: Tablets or Steripen
• Water Bottle Parkas: To keep your water from freezing
• Pee Bottle: 1 liter capacity minimum
• Pee Funnel: For Women
• Knife: Optional
• Toiletry Bag: Toothpaste, Toothbrush, baby wipes, etc.
• Hand Sanitizer: 2 small bottles
• Hand warmers / Toe warmers: 3 sets of each
• Trash Compactor bags (4): To line stuff sacks and separate gear
• Camera: lightweight with extra batteries
• Travel Clothes: For days in Kathmandu.
• Large Duffel Bag with lock: for transporting all personal gear to base camp.
• Small duffel bag: to store items in the hotel
• Small Personal First Aid Kit: Athletic tape, band aids, Ibuprofen, Moleskin, blister care products, personal medications, cough drops.
Medications:
  ‣ Acetazolamide (Diamox) for altitude illness
  ‣ Antibiotics such as Ciprofloxin or Azithromycin for gastro intestinal or respiratory illness
  ‣ Ibuprofen for muscle soreness   ‣ Pepto Bismol for loose stool   ‣ Excedrin for headaches
  ‣ Anti-nausea medications.
Climbing Snacks:
  ‣ Electrolyte Replacement Drink Mix: Bring a supply for 12 days such as Nuun.
  ‣ Energy Gel: Single serving gel packs such as GU, Clifshot, Powergel, etc.)
  ‣ Energy Bars: Power bar, Cliff bar, etc.

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