Aconcagua Archives

Ojos del Salado 2023.12.29

Gearing up for Ojos del Salado!

On the summit of Cerro San Francisco with views of Incahuasi volcano. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

With another successful acclimatization climb in their bags, the Madison Mountaineering team is taking a rest day today while they prepare to make their move to Ojos del Salado base camp! The team started today with a soak in the hot springs – a perfect way to recover after several days of activity! Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from Laguna Verde:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Ojos del Salado (6893m/22,615ft) and Aconcagua (6961m/22,837ft) combined expedition – today is January 3rd.

Yesterday, the second, we had a great climb on Nevado San Francisco (6018m/19,744ft)! Started early in the morning, left our beautiful lakeside camp here at Laguna Verde, and drove to about 4,900 meters. We had a really pleasant climb – excellent weather, not a cloud in the sky for most of the day to the summit San Francisco at just over 6,000 meters, 6,017 meters. From up top, we had excellent views of the massive Incahuasi volcano (6638m, 21,778ft), El Fraile volcano (6061m/19,885ft) a little farther away, Laguna Verde with all of the 6,000-meter volcanoes around it, and in the distance our next objective, Ojos del Salado which is the second highest peak in South America and the planet’s highest volcano!

In the evening we came back down to Laguna Verde where we had a great dinner of grilled chicken and guacamole and fresh salad. And then we got a good nights sleep!

Today, we are taking a rest day here at Laguna Verde! We’ve had a nice soak in the hot springs here and are just enjoying the almost Caribbean vibes beside this amazing turquoise lake here at 4,300 meters on the Altiplano.

Tomorrow, we plan to move to base camp at the foot of Ojos del Salado! So all is well here in Chile and we’ll be in touch tomorrow.

Penitentes just below the summit of Cerro San Francisco at about 6000m. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Climbing Cerro San Francisco. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

Summit photo!

The team’s trusty 4WD in camp at Laguna Verde.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions. Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

January 3, 2024/0 Comments/by Garrett

Ojos del Salado 2023.12.29

New Year’s Day in the Atacama

Summiting Doña Ines! (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

The Madison Mountaineering Ojos del Salado and Aconcagua expedition team packed up their camp and drove through the Atacama Desert to their next stop, Laguna Verde. It’s been a beautiful New Year’s Day and we couldn’t think of a better way to kick off the New Year! Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from Chile:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Ojos del Salado (6893m/22,615ft) and Aconcagua (6961m/22,837ft) combination expedition – today is January 1st, 2024.

Today, we are moving from our camp beside the Pedernales Salt Flat down to Laguna Verde, which will be our new base camp for the next few nights while we acclimatize on Cerro San Francisco (6018m/19,744ft). Then from there, we’ll move to Ojos del Salado base camp (5251m/17,227ft).

It’s a beautiful day here, very pleasant drive through the Altiplano. We had a nice New Year’s celebration yesterday evening with steaks and guacamole and some champagne, which was the same color as the rosey alpenglow on the peaks across the salt flat.

We’re looking forward to getting to Laguna Verde where we can set up camp and relax in the hot springs there! All is well here and we’ll be in touch.

Celebrating the New Year and a successful acclimatization climb of Doña Ines!

Flamingoes near our camp at Pedernales Salt Flat. (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

En route to Laguna Verde with the Salar Maricunga in the distance.

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions. Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

January 1, 2024/0 Comments/by Garrett

Ojos del Salado 2023.12.29

Cumbre on Doña Ines!

On the summit of Volcano Doña Ines, our first acclimatization ascent at 5,070m.

The first acclimatization hike is done and the team is preparing to ring in the New Year! On New Year’s Eve, the Madison Mountaineering team set off on their first acclimatization hike to prepare for climbs of Ojos del Salado and Aconcagua. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester called in from a windy summit before their descent, filled with excitement after a successful climb up to over 5,070 meters and for a fun evening celebrating the New Year ahead:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Ojos del Salado (6893m/22,615ft) and Aconcagua (6961m/22,837ft) combo – today is December 31st, New Year’s Eve!

We are on top of Volcano Doña Ines (5075m/16,650ft) right now. We just had a fantastic ascent and made good time up here. It’s our first acclimatization ascent of this trip. This summit is about 5,070 meters. We didn’t expect to have any cell service until we get back to Copiapó, but it turns out there’s a little bit of reception up here so I’m sending in a dispatch from here.

In just a minute we will take an hour and a half or two hours to descend back to our pickup truck, and then we’ll drive back to our camp on the outskirts of the Pedernales Salt Flat where we’ll relax and then have a nice New Year’s Eve dinner with some champagne to ring in 2024!

All is well here in Chile and we’ll be in touch!

Blue skies over the Atacama Desert on New Years Eve!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions. Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

December 31, 2023/0 Comments/by Garrett

Ojos del Salado 2023.12.29

Ojos del Salado & Aconcagua expedition

Photo pulled from the Madison Mountaineering archive (Photo by Terray Sylvester)

We’ve kicked off an exciting combo expedition to Ojos del Salado and Aconcagua! Ojos del Salado is the highest volcano on the planet and Aconcagua is the tallest peak outside of Asia, together combining for a challenging duo for a few intrepid climbers! The Madison Mountaineering team has arrived in Chile where they’ll first attempt Ojos del Salado, before turning their sights towards Aconcagua. Expedition leader, Terray Sylvester checks in with this dispatch from El Salvador:

Hello! This is Terray calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Ojos del Salado (6893m/22,615ft) and Aconcagua (6961m/22,837ft) expedition – today is December 30th.

Yesterday, everyone arrived in the Copiapó (390m/1,280ft) airport in the Atacama region in northern Chile, and then we drove to the little mining town of El Salvador at about 8,000 feet or just over 2,000 meters. We spent the night here and just had a nice breakfast. This afternoon, we’ll have lunch here and then we will continue to our first campsite on the Pedernales Salt Flat to the east of us. We’ll be there for a night and then will do our first acclimatization ascent on Doña Ines volcano (5075m/16,650ft).

All is going well! The team is in great spirits and good health. It’s beautiful weather here in the Atacama, really pleasant summer temperatures, and clear skies – but the skies are almost always clear because it’s one of the driest deserts on the planet.

So, we’ll be in touch via inReach over the next few days. We won’t have much cell service or WiFi, but we’ll be able to communicate by satellite text. That’s all for now!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions. Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

December 30, 2023/0 Comments/by Garrett

Aconcagua 2023/2024

Aconcagua Summits!

Cumbre! We’re thrilled to announce the Madison Mountaineering team’s recent success on Aconcagua (6961m/22,837ft) – the first of five expeditions this season!

Reaching the summit on December 19, the team battled through windy weather conditions throughout the expedition. Their hard work, determination, and well-thought-out strategy put them in a position to make a summit push when a window presented itself. While many other teams and climbers on the mountain were unable to reach the summit, our team persevered and earned themselves a spot on top of South America’s highest peak, and one of the famed ‘seven summits!’

We’re very proud of the teams’ efforts and look forward to the expeditions ahead now that everyone is off the mountain. Strong work, team!

Climbing with beautiful views of the surrounding Andes!

Sunset from one of the team’s camps on Aconcagua.

Climber, Matthew Russell on the summit of Aconcagua!

Climbing amongst penitentes.

Climber, Matthew Russell descending with a heavy pack down the mountain.

360-degree views of the surrounding Andes from high on Aconcagua!

Guide, Cacho Beiza cooking up a warm meal!

Celebrating back in base camp!

Beautiful weather after an unforgettable climb on South America’s highest peak!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions. Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

December 22, 2023/0 Comments/by Garrett

Aconcagua 2023/2024

Aconcagua season is underway!

The 2023 Madison Mountaineering Aconcagua expedition team loading up to leave Mendoza to begin their climb!

The 2023 / 2024 Madison Mountaineering Aconcagua (6961m/22,837ft) season is off in Argentina! We are thrilled to be back in the Andes and on the trail with our eyes set on the highest peak in all of the Americas, Aconcagua. After a long day of traveling, our climbers touched down in Mendoza (746m/2,449ft) and were picked up by private transportation and dropped off at the team hotel. After some rest, the team came together for the first time completing a gear check and orientation, before heading out for dinner and later going to bed with departure for the trailhead scheduled for the following day.

The team awoke to blue skies and pleasant temperatures as they loaded the truck and hit the road towards Los Horcones, the gateway to Aconcagua. We’ve arrived in Plaza de Mulas (4367m/14,327ft) which will serve as our base camp on Aconcagua, and are getting ready to continue on up the mountain to Camp Canada (5060m/16,600ft).

The team is doing well and are in good spirits! We hope for good weather in the coming days as we continue to ascend the highest peak outside of Asia.

Stay tuned for more!

Madison Mountaineering private transportation loaded up and ready to go!

Dawning packs and hitting the trail en route to Aconcagua!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions. Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

December 13, 2023/0 Comments/by Garrett

Aconcagua 2023.01.24

Successful end to another season on Aconcagua!

The team atop the highest point in all of the America's!

It’s been another great season on Aconcagua for us! Our teams enjoyed spending time on the highest peak in the Andes and pushing to new heights. While not every climber we had made the summit, all had a fun and safe experience on the highest peak in the southern and western hemispheres. We pride ourselves on our small groups, high quality guiding / logistics and attention to detail throughout our program on Aconcagua. As noted in the recent Explorer’s Web Aconcagua article, the mountain is sometimes dangerous and fatal, so should not be underestimated. We look forward to returning to Aconcagua next season for more good times in the Andes mountains!

The whole experience you’ve assembled is just a total class act! So pleased to have this opportunity to spend some time with you on the mountain!” – Bill Chapman, 2023 Aconcagua

Above the clouds after an alpine start on summit day!

Breaking to refuel with food and water!

The camp hangout spot sitting below Aconcagua and alpenglow on the upper mountain!

Guides, Garrett Madison, Ed Viesturs and Cacho Beiza working hard!

Taking in the views above camp!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions. Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

February 9, 2023/0 Comments/by Garrett

Aconcagua 2023.01.24

Aconcagua Summit!

Photo pulled from Madison Mountaineering Archive.

We’re ecstatic to announce that the Madison Mountaineering Aconcagua expedition team successfully reached the summit of South America’s tallest peak and have returned safely and soundly to their comforts in Camp 3! While it was a long day, the team had great weather on the ascent, and was able to enjoy a hot meal before crawling into their tents this evening. Expedition guide, Ed Viesturs, checks in with this dispatch after a successful summit on Aconcagua:

Hello everyone! This is Ed Viesturs reporting for Madison Mountaineering. We’re back at Camp 3 (5989m/19,650ft) now, we had an amazing day!

We reached the summit (6961m/22,837ft) today after an eight and a half hour climb. We had spectacular weather – it was sunny, very little wind, and once we reached the summit, the afternoon (inaudible) kind of rolled in and we got a little snow and it got a little spicy. But all in all, it was a great climb! 13 hours round trip and we’re safe and sound back at Camp 3. We just had a nice hot meal, called guamen, and tomorrow we’re heading down back to base camp (4367m/14,327ft).

Thanks for checking in!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions. Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

February 3, 2023/0 Comments/by Garrett

Aconcagua 2023.01.24

Summit Push Ahead!

The Madison Mountaineering Aconcagua expedition team has arrived in their high camp and are primed for their summit push! While the anticipation built, the team spent the evening relaxing, eating dinner, and packing their bags for their alpine start. Stay tuned to hear if they make the summit! Expedition leader, Garrett Madison, checks in with today’s dispatch before the team goes for the summit tomorrow:

Hello! This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Aconcagua (6961m/22,837ft) expedition climb. Today’s February second, Thursday, and we are up at our high camp (5989m/19,650ft), Camp 3 Colera at about 19,600 feet. Everyone’s doing great!

It was a beautiful day climbing up here – not much wind and clear skies as far as the eye can see, great views all around! We just finished our dinner, did a little packing and preparation for tomorrow. The plan is to wake up at 3:00 (AM) and depart by 5:00 AM, go for the summit on the third of February, and fingers crossed we’ll get lucky with good weather and route conditions!

We’ll check in tomorrow after we get back down, but the weather is looking good right now at the moment. Really happy to be here and the team’s doing great!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions. Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

February 2, 2023/0 Comments/by Garrett

Aconcagua 2023.01.24

Ed Viesturs and Team in Camp 2!

All is well on Aconcagua! The team will take a rest day today and spend a second night in Camp 2 so they can rest and acclimatize, with the plan to move up to Camp 3 tomorrow. Their move up to Camp 3 means that their summit attempt will come in the next few days! Legendary mountaineer and guide, Ed Viesturs, checks in with todays dispatch from Camp 2:

Hey everyone! Ed Viesturs here reporting from Camp 2 on Aconcagua (6961m/22,837ft) with Madison Mountaineering. This is our rest day here – we’ll be spending a second night here at about 16,600 feet. Everybody’s doing well, we’re acclimatizing, weather’s very, very nice. We haven’t had a lot of clouds, we have had some wind.

The plan from here is to get up tomorrow and move to Camp 3 which is at about 18,100 feet, spend a very short night, and then hopefully on Friday get up at around 3:00 AM and leave camp at 5:00 (AM), and make our way to the summit of Aconcagua, hoping to return back to Camp 3 late in that day.

So, everybody’s doing great! We’ve had awesome weather, the team is a lot of fun to be with, we’ve made a lot of good friends… (inaudible) See you soon!

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

– Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions. Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.“

– Instagram:

February 1, 2023/0 Comments/by Garrett

Tag Archive for: Aconcagua