Dispatches

Aconcagua 2016.01

Beautiful blue skies for our Aconcagua team!

Yesterday our Aconcagua team had beautiful blue skies and no wind on the mountain and successful completed a carry to Camp 1 at an elevation of 16,100′. After moving gear and food up the mountain our team returned to base camp to rest. All is well and our team is gearing up for a safe ascent up the mountain. To the top!

To see our teams itinerary for getting to the top visit our page here!

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Audio dispatch from expedition leader Garrett Madison:

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Beautiful weather for our climbers!

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Andes Mountain Range is a beauty!

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Climbers making their way up Aconcagua!

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Magnificent sunset on Aconcagua!

January 17, 2016/0 Comments/by Andrew

Aconcagua 2016.01

Rest day at Aconcagua Base Camp!

Our climbing team in Argentina has successfully made it to Aconcagua Base Camp! After yesterday’s trek through the Relinchos Valley our climbers have a chance to enjoy the beautiful views and continue to adjust to the altitude. After a warm dinner at base camp the team enjoyed amazing company and another beautiful night on the mountain. Now resting at an elevation of 13,900′, the team will prepare for the climb to Camp 1 (16’000) tomorrow and their departure from our friendly Argentinian outfitter and staff. Winds have faded with favorable climbing conditions for the summit ascent ahead. With magnificent views of the Aconcagua Provincial Park and the surrounding Andes mountain range, Audrey, Bernd, Ginna, Linda, Walter, Peter, Weny, and Garrett have an exciting expedition ahead of them. Stay tuned on our dispatch page as we watch our Madison Mountaineering team make their way to the summit. To the top!

Fun face: Aconcagua is not just the highest mountain in South America but also the highest in the Western Hemisphere. The mountain dominates the skyline and it is visible 50+ off the coast in the Pacific Ocean on a clear day.

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Audio dispatch from expedition leader Garrett Madison:

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Rocky terrain on Aconcagua! This mountain is arguably the highest non-technical mountain in the world.

January 15, 2016/0 Comments/by Andrew

Aconcagua 2016.01

Trekking through the scenic Vacas Valley

Yesterday our team enjoyed a beautiful day of trekking through the Vacas Valley (8,000′). Weather has been enjoyable with winds gusting throughout the day and temperatures cooling down nicely in the evening. Last night our team enjoyed a traditional open fire barbecue with chicken, steak, fresh salad, and vegetables along the riverside. After a relaxing nights rest at Pampa de Lena camp (9,200′) our team woke up early to cross the river (with river shoes or by mule) through the Relinchos Valley to Plaza Argentina base camp (13,900′). This will be our team’s third day of trekking and they will be greeted shortly by our friendly outfitter and enjoy a warm dinner celebrating their arrival to Aconcagua. Tomorrow our team will rest at base camp and begin to organize the loads of gear to be moved to higher camps on Aconcagua. Members of the team will have the option to participate in a short acclimatization hike to a nearby peak with Garrett. Onward!!

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Audio dispatch from expedition leader Garrett Madison:

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Trekking toward Aconcagua ~ the highest mountain outside of Asia at 6,961m (22,838ft)!

January 14, 2016/0 Comments/by Andrew

Aconcagua 2016.01

Climbers depart from Park Hyatt Hotel

After a relaxing breakfast this morning at the Park Hyatt Hotel in Mendoza, our team has finalized their climbing gear and departed for the Aconcagua Park Office. Here our team will obtain their climbing permits. After a afternoon drive to Penitentes, our team arrived at the Ayelen hotel. Here guides Garrett and Wenny will discuss a strategy for the climb and enjoy another beautiful Argentine style dinner, (see below!). Tomorrow our team will begin the trek toward the Vacas Valley near Punta de Vaca (8,000′). Aconcagua, the “Stone Sentinel”, is located in Argentina near the border of Chile, and is the highest mountain outside of Asia. Garrett‘s proven approach for climbing is to properly acclimatize and then attempt the summit with enough extra days built in for bad weather.

For a complete overview of our climbers itinerary please visit our website here.

Awesome pictures here by our expedition leader Garret Madison!

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2016 Madison Mountaineering Aconcagua Climbers (Left to right):

Audrey Cadwallader, Bernd Horsman, Ginna kelly, Linda Wohlgemuth, Walter harris, Peter Horsman, Weny Sanchez, Garrett

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Gear check complete, heading to Penitentes tomorrow!

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Entertainers, artisan vendors, and live music in the park!

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Co guide: Wenny Sanchez

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Wine & Dine

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Garrett paying for Aconcagua permits

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Relaxing first few days of the expedition!

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Park Hyatt Mendoza, Argentina

January 12, 2016/0 Comments/by Andrew

Aconcagua 2016.01

2016 Aconcagua climbers are enroute to Mendoza!

Madison Mountaineering 2016 Aconcagua climbers are enroute to Mendoza! Everyone should be arriving by tomorrow and we will do our gear check, team meeting, and welcome dinner before heading off to the mountain! Aconcagua, also known as the “Stone Sentinel”, is located in Argentina near the border of Chile, and is the highest mountain outside of Asia. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison, and team will climb a less traveled route that allows for more acclimatization, and while we may use our ice axe and crampons occasionally, this climb does not require ‘roping up.’ Aconcagua is bounded by the Valle de las Vacas to the north and east and the Valle de los Horcones Inferior to the west and south. The mountain and its surroundings are part of the Aconcagua Provincial Park. The mountain has a number of glaciers. The largest glacier is the Ventisquero Horcones Inferior at about 10 km long, which descends from the south face to about 3600 m altitude near the Confluencia camp.

Our climbers will begin on the eastern side of the mountain, by trekking along the Vacas River to Plaza Argentina base camp. From here we ascend the non technical false polish and then upper Guanacos route to our high camp.

To the top!

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Gear begins to arrive into Mendoza, Argentina!

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Madison Mountaineering climbing team finalizing the pre-trip logistics before departure from Mendoza.

January 9, 2016/0 Comments/by Garrett

Vinson 2015

Liftoff on Blue Ice Runway for Punta Arenas, Chile

Garrett, Mike, Sam, Iñaki, and Todd have taken-off from the blue ice runway and successfully bring to an end their Vinson Massif expedition. In three weeks our climbers have traversed the earth’s southernmost continent, scaled polar glaciers across the Sentinel Range, and summited one of the world’s 7 Summits. Our team was a part of aviation history the moment they touched down on the first Boeing 757 in Union Glacier Camp, Antarctica. In total, our tour team traveled the skies on a Boeing 757, Russian Ilyushin Il-76, DHC-6 Twin Otter, and a Douglas DC3. Pretty impressive!

Congratulations to Mike, Sam, Iñaki, and Todd for reaching new high’s, I hope the journey is onward and upward for all. Enjoy the photos taken by Garrett Madison below 🙂

“Climb the mountain not to plant your flag, but to embrace the challenge, enjoy the air and behold the view. Climb it so you can see the world, not so the world can see you.”
― David McCullough Jr.

Thanks for following!

-Andrew

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About to leave Antarctica on the Ilushin 76.

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Building snow walls to fortify our tents, Todd carrying a big snow block.

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Climbing the fixed ropes, Michael in front, Sam behind.

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Climbing the fixed ropes.

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Good times in the cook tent, Inaki & Mike.

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Onboard the twin otter leaving Vinson Base Camp, MIchael, Sam, Todd, Inaki, Garrett.

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Our MH Trango Tents holding up well in Antarctica!

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Our MH Trango tents holding up well on the mountain.

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Sam cooking french fries!

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Team at base camp, Garrett, Mike, Todd, Sam, Inaki

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Team at Vinson Base Camp.

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Team on the summit, Garrett, Todd, Michael, Sam!

December 14, 2015/0 Comments/by Andrew

Vinson 2015

Antarctic Explorers and Scientists

Yesterday Garrett, Mike, Sam, Iñaki, and Todd had the opportunity to interact with other Antarctic explorers as well as scientists doing meaningful research in their fields at Union Glacier Camp. Enjoying a few days of R&R as this journey of a lifetime comes to an end. Warm meals and cold drinks with lots of really nice people from around the world. Tomorrow we plan to fly out on the Russian Ilyushin Il-76 aircraft back to Punta Arenas, Chile. The team is doing well and will check in tomorrow before take-off!

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Audio Dispatch from Garrett Madison ~ Friday, December 11th

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Union Glacier Camp

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Google Maps image showing key locations.

December 12, 2015/0 Comments/by Andrew

Vinson 2015

Safe arrival into Union Glacier Camp

Garrett, Mike, Sam, Iñaki, and Todd are safely off Mt. Vinson and arrived in Union Glacier Camp after a quick ride on a Twin Otter today. It is located in the Heritage Range in the Ellsworth Mountains, on Union Glacier. Today they descended from Camp 2 to Vinson Base Camp after the weather conditions improved. After the flight to Union Glacier Camp the team enjoyed a nice warm dinner. The camp is positioned near Union Glacier Blue-Ice Runway that allows our flight out on a Russian Ilyushin Il-76 aircraft back to Chile. The team is doing really well and enjoyed an extra 4 nights on Mt. Vinson with 5o knot winds and -50 to -70 degree temperatures, but had a fun time staying warm with a complete success on the expedition.

Great job team!

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Audio Dispatch from Garrett Madison ~ Thursday December 10

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Center of Union Glacier Camp

December 10, 2015/1 Comment/by Andrew

Vinson 2015

Vinson team pinned by high winds

Over the past four days our Mount Vinson climbing team has been pinned by high winds on the mountain. With gail force winds reaching over 50 knots, Garrett and team have decided to wait out the weather and enjoy an extended stay on the tallest mountain in Antarctica. Currently Garrett and team have the whole mountain to themselves, as they are the only team on the mountain the last four days. Shoutout to Mountain Hardwear for the field tested Trango 3 expedition tent for withstanding these conditions over the past four days. Our team has also put to use the extremely warm Ghost -40 degree F sleeping bags which have kept our team nice and cozy throughout the day. Garrett, Mike, Sam, Iñaki, and Todd have plenty of food and fuel and are making the most of their adventure of a lifetime. Tomorrow the forecast is calling for reduced winds down to 25 knots, which will allow our team to make the descent down to Vinson Base Camp. Onward!

For family and friends of the climbers, I can be reached at any point in regard to this expedition at andrew@madisonmountaineering.com

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Audio Dispatch from Garrett Madison ~ Wednesday, December 9

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Mountain Hardwear Trango 3 expedition tents at High Camp on Mount Vinson, keeping our team warm and safe!

December 9, 2015/1 Comment/by Andrew

Vinson 2015

Rest day at High Camp due to strong winds

Today Garrett, Mike, Sam, Iñaki, and Todd took a rest day at high camp after their summit ascent yesterday. The team had a beautiful summit day with gorgeous views and no wind, allowing the whole team to make it to the top. Once Garrett and team arrived back at Camp 2 the winds picked up considerably and the team decided to enjoy a rest day instead of making the descent with high winds. Depending on tomorrow’s conditions the team will climb down to Mt. Vinson base camp, but could end up staying 2-3 additional days in order to make a safe descent. Our team has plenty of food and fuel and will be checking in tomorrow!

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Audio Dispatch from Garrett Madison ~ Monday, December 7

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Beautiful view of Antarctica yesterday!

December 7, 2015/0 Comments/by Andrew