Dispatches

Ecuador 2016.01

Team summited Pichincha!

Yesterday Jeff, José, and I summited Pichincha in record time and enjoyed panoramic views of Cayambe, Cotopaxi (active), and many other notorious mountains across Ecuador. Once we reached the summit at 15,700 feet we had lunch and continued to acclimate as we prepare for the journey to Cayambe hut today. After our climb we checked out of our hotel in Quito and drove a short distance to Hacienda Guachala, a famous establishment that dates back to 1580! As we fell asleep we enjoyed a warm fire in our room and woke up to the smell of freshly brewed coffee on our patio. Today we will journey to the Cayambe hut and begin to review the technical skills that we will need for the climb. Service will become harder to find but I will try and update the blog as soon as I am able. Onward!

-Andrew

Photos taken below by Andrew Tierney

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Bouldering across a rock field as we make our way up Pichincha.

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Jeff and José Luis climbing up the last few steps of Pichincha!

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Jeff and Andrew at the summit of Pichincha (15,700 feet).

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Beautiful views looking over the city of Quito from Pichincha!

January 20, 2016/0 Comments/by Andrew

Aconcagua 2016.01

Aconcagua climbing team provides audio dispatch from Camp 2!

Today Peter, from the Aconcagua climbing team, provides a audio dispatch from Camp 2 as the team rests at an elevation of (5492m/18,020ft) and outlines their summit day plan. We also get a nice introduction to all of the other team members. Weather is continuing to be great, the team is feeling good and looking forward to the summit attempt in a few days.

Check out team member Ginna Kelly’s awesome cause – http://climbforconservation.org/

The audio dispatch is in two parts:

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2)

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Walt and Ginna relaxing at camp (Photo by: Bernd):

Walt and Ginna relaxing in base camp

January 19, 2016/0 Comments/by Kurt

Ecuador 2016.01

Acclimatization hikes near Quito!

Today Jeff Glasbrenner and I explored the rolling country side and completed acclimatization hikes near Quito. We cruised to the top of Pasochoa at 13,860 ft and bagged another nearby summit as well. After a day of hiking we explored the beautiful city of Quito where we saw the historic sites and had an authentic Ecuadorian dinner in town. Tomorrow we will continue to acclimate to the altitude with our amazing guide, José Luis, and climb Pinchincha at 15,700 ft. The weather is beautiful and our team is very excited to begin our journey to Cayambe in the days to come.

To the top!

-Andrew Tierney

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Photos taken using DJI Phantom 3 Professional drone and GoPro Hero4. Enjoy!

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Virgin of El Panecillo overlooking the city of Quito

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Church of San Francisco

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One of my favorite shots looking over the city of Quito!

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Basílica del Voto Nacional – Quito

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Rolling layers of fog made for a beautiful picture here from the summit of Pasochoa (13,860′).

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Jeff and I taking our first summit photo! More to come!!

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Our adventure rig for the week!

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Climbing down from Pasochoa over the rolling hills outside of Quito

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Palace in the Plaza Grande

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Church of La Compañía de Jesús

January 18, 2016/0 Comments/by Andrew

Aconcagua 2016.01

Strong team makes successful carry to Camp 2

Today Garrett Madison checked in via satellite phone to report that under great weather conditions the team made a successful carry of gear and supplies up to Camp 2 (5492m / 18,020ft) on the north flank of Aconcagua as they prepare to move to Camp 2 tomorrow. This “double carry” strategy (that is, carrying a load of gear up to the next camp and dropping it off, then descending back back down to sleep at the lower camp, then moving up the following day) lightens the load when advancing up the mountain and adds to the acclimatization process following the ‘climb high / sleep low’ approach.

Garrett reports that the team is healthy, strong, and in excellent spirits and are all hoping for continued great weather!
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Audio dispatch from expedition leader Garrett Madison:

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Team dinner:

Team Pre-Summit Huddle

January 18, 2016/0 Comments/by Kurt

Aconcagua 2016.01

Successful ascent to Camp 1 on the Stone Sentinel!

Yesterday our team had a successful ascent to Camp 1 at an elevation of 16,100′ on Aconcagua following Saturday’s carry of food and gear up the mountain. With clear skies and little to no wind our team is enjoying the beautiful weather and spectacular views. All climbers are in great condition and ready to continue the exciting climb all the way to the 22,837′ summit of the Aconcagua, also known as the ‘Stone Sentinel’. After setting up camp Audrey, Bernd, Ginna, Linda, Walter, Peter, Weny, and Garrett enjoyed an afternoon siesta with gorgeous views to the west looking over Chile as the sun went down. The weather appears to be clear for a great shot at a successful summit in the days to come!

Tomorrow our climbing team will complete a carry to Camp 2 at an elevation of 18,00′ with the estimated summit day in 3-4 days. To the top!

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Audio dispatch from expedition leader Garrett Madison:

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Mountain life on the ascent!

128 2016-01-24 Aconcagua DSC_0560

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Wildlife sighting days earlier while enroute to Aconcagua! ‘South American Fox (photo by Bernd)’

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Blue skies and moderate wind as our Aconcagua team makes the ascent of the highest mountain in the western hemisphere!

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Onward and upward!

2016-01-23 Descent to Basecamp

January 18, 2016/0 Comments/by Andrew

Aconcagua 2016.01

Beautiful blue skies for our Aconcagua team!

Yesterday our Aconcagua team had beautiful blue skies and no wind on the mountain and successful completed a carry to Camp 1 at an elevation of 16,100′. After moving gear and food up the mountain our team returned to base camp to rest. All is well and our team is gearing up for a safe ascent up the mountain. To the top!

To see our teams itinerary for getting to the top visit our page here!

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Audio dispatch from expedition leader Garrett Madison:

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Beautiful weather for our climbers!

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Andes Mountain Range is a beauty!

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Climbers making their way up Aconcagua!

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Magnificent sunset on Aconcagua!

January 17, 2016/0 Comments/by Andrew

Aconcagua 2016.01

Rest day at Aconcagua Base Camp!

Our climbing team in Argentina has successfully made it to Aconcagua Base Camp! After yesterday’s trek through the Relinchos Valley our climbers have a chance to enjoy the beautiful views and continue to adjust to the altitude. After a warm dinner at base camp the team enjoyed amazing company and another beautiful night on the mountain. Now resting at an elevation of 13,900′, the team will prepare for the climb to Camp 1 (16’000) tomorrow and their departure from our friendly Argentinian outfitter and staff. Winds have faded with favorable climbing conditions for the summit ascent ahead. With magnificent views of the Aconcagua Provincial Park and the surrounding Andes mountain range, Audrey, Bernd, Ginna, Linda, Walter, Peter, Weny, and Garrett have an exciting expedition ahead of them. Stay tuned on our dispatch page as we watch our Madison Mountaineering team make their way to the summit. To the top!

Fun face: Aconcagua is not just the highest mountain in South America but also the highest in the Western Hemisphere. The mountain dominates the skyline and it is visible 50+ off the coast in the Pacific Ocean on a clear day.

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Audio dispatch from expedition leader Garrett Madison:

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Rocky terrain on Aconcagua! This mountain is arguably the highest non-technical mountain in the world.

January 15, 2016/0 Comments/by Andrew

Aconcagua 2016.01

Trekking through the scenic Vacas Valley

Yesterday our team enjoyed a beautiful day of trekking through the Vacas Valley (8,000′). Weather has been enjoyable with winds gusting throughout the day and temperatures cooling down nicely in the evening. Last night our team enjoyed a traditional open fire barbecue with chicken, steak, fresh salad, and vegetables along the riverside. After a relaxing nights rest at Pampa de Lena camp (9,200′) our team woke up early to cross the river (with river shoes or by mule) through the Relinchos Valley to Plaza Argentina base camp (13,900′). This will be our team’s third day of trekking and they will be greeted shortly by our friendly outfitter and enjoy a warm dinner celebrating their arrival to Aconcagua. Tomorrow our team will rest at base camp and begin to organize the loads of gear to be moved to higher camps on Aconcagua. Members of the team will have the option to participate in a short acclimatization hike to a nearby peak with Garrett. Onward!!

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Audio dispatch from expedition leader Garrett Madison:

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Trekking toward Aconcagua ~ the highest mountain outside of Asia at 6,961m (22,838ft)!

January 14, 2016/0 Comments/by Andrew

Aconcagua 2016.01

Climbers depart from Park Hyatt Hotel

After a relaxing breakfast this morning at the Park Hyatt Hotel in Mendoza, our team has finalized their climbing gear and departed for the Aconcagua Park Office. Here our team will obtain their climbing permits. After a afternoon drive to Penitentes, our team arrived at the Ayelen hotel. Here guides Garrett and Wenny will discuss a strategy for the climb and enjoy another beautiful Argentine style dinner, (see below!). Tomorrow our team will begin the trek toward the Vacas Valley near Punta de Vaca (8,000′). Aconcagua, the “Stone Sentinel”, is located in Argentina near the border of Chile, and is the highest mountain outside of Asia. Garrett‘s proven approach for climbing is to properly acclimatize and then attempt the summit with enough extra days built in for bad weather.

For a complete overview of our climbers itinerary please visit our website here.

Awesome pictures here by our expedition leader Garret Madison!

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2016 Madison Mountaineering Aconcagua Climbers (Left to right):

Audrey Cadwallader, Bernd Horsman, Ginna kelly, Linda Wohlgemuth, Walter harris, Peter Horsman, Weny Sanchez, Garrett

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Gear check complete, heading to Penitentes tomorrow!

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Entertainers, artisan vendors, and live music in the park!

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Co guide: Wenny Sanchez

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Wine & Dine

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Garrett paying for Aconcagua permits

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Relaxing first few days of the expedition!

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Park Hyatt Mendoza, Argentina

January 12, 2016/0 Comments/by Andrew

Aconcagua 2016.01

2016 Aconcagua climbers are enroute to Mendoza!

Madison Mountaineering 2016 Aconcagua climbers are enroute to Mendoza! Everyone should be arriving by tomorrow and we will do our gear check, team meeting, and welcome dinner before heading off to the mountain! Aconcagua, also known as the “Stone Sentinel”, is located in Argentina near the border of Chile, and is the highest mountain outside of Asia. Expedition leader, Garrett Madison, and team will climb a less traveled route that allows for more acclimatization, and while we may use our ice axe and crampons occasionally, this climb does not require ‘roping up.’ Aconcagua is bounded by the Valle de las Vacas to the north and east and the Valle de los Horcones Inferior to the west and south. The mountain and its surroundings are part of the Aconcagua Provincial Park. The mountain has a number of glaciers. The largest glacier is the Ventisquero Horcones Inferior at about 10 km long, which descends from the south face to about 3600 m altitude near the Confluencia camp.

Our climbers will begin on the eastern side of the mountain, by trekking along the Vacas River to Plaza Argentina base camp. From here we ascend the non technical false polish and then upper Guanacos route to our high camp.

To the top!

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Gear begins to arrive into Mendoza, Argentina!

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Madison Mountaineering climbing team finalizing the pre-trip logistics before departure from Mendoza.

January 9, 2016/0 Comments/by Garrett