Mount Everest 2023 Season Recap

The Madison Mountaineering team with the summit of Mount Everest all to themselves on May 24, 2023 (Photo: Terray Sylvester)

We had great climbs of Everest (May 24th) and Lhotse (May 25th). The conditions were the best I’ve ever had on summit day; warm, calm, and hardly any other climbers on the route. We had the summit all to ourselves for over an hour. In addition to eight clients, four guides, and 15 Nepal Sherpas reaching the summit of Everest, we had three clients, two guides, and three Sherpas reach the summit of Lhotse the following day. Peter Horsman became the first Dutchman, Debbie Bulten became the first Canadian woman, and Danah Ali became the first Emirati to complete the Everest & Lhotse peak to peak combination.

Unfortunately, on the way down from Camp 4 on May 25th at 7500m, one of our climbers, Pieter Swart passed away in the evening from a rapid onset lung infection / pulmonary edema. Guides, Terray Sylvester & Scott Webster spent the entire day with him assisting in his descent, joined by myself and Cacho Beiza from 1:00 pm onwards after our Lhotse climb, as we attempted to descend with him down to Camp 3 where a helicopter rescue might be possible. We will remember him fondly for his kindness and enthusiasm towards our team and for living life to the fullest.

At this time, our focus is working with the Nepalese agencies to support Pieter’s family and our team as we conclude our expedition here in Nepal.

To higher places,

Garrett Madison

In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear our daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my flash briefing.


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