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About Madison Mountaineering
Madison Mountaineering is a boutique mountain guide service specializing in leading expeditions to climb the world’s most famous and formidable peaks: Mount Everest, K2, the Antarctic’s Mount Vinson, the “Seven Summits”, and unclimbed peaks in the Himalayas.
Every year since 2014, we have led expeditions on all seven continents, including three of the four highest mountains in the world. Find detailed accounts of our most recent expeditions in our Dispatches.
As a part of our guided climbs, Madison Mountaineering provides the education and training for climbers who aspire to become self-sufficient, aware, and respectful of the local mountain culture, stewards of the environment, and for whom safety is the number one priority in all climbing endeavors.
In addition to regularly guiding the Seven Summits and 8000m peaks, Madison Mountaineering engages in several special projects each year, such as "first ascents" of unclimbed peaks, the "Second Seven Summits," and film consultations. During the COVID-19 pandemic, Madison Mountaineering has been the only international mountaineering company to continue operating on four continents (North America, South America, Africa, and Asia), while most companies shuttered operations or focused solely on limited domestic programs. We pride ourselves on client and crew safety first, taking calculated risks, and "opening the way" when reasonable and in accordance with all government guidelines and regulations.
Help us support relief in Nepal by donating generously to The Juniper Fund: https://www.thejuniperfund.org
Garrett Madison
President / Founder / Expedition Leader
Garrett Madison, America’s premier Everest guide and Expedition Leader, began guiding professionally in 1999 on Mount Rainier and has reached the top of Everest 12 times. As Expedition Leader, he has personally led 70+ climbers (clients) to the summit of Everest since 2009, more than any other guide. In 2011, Garrett led the first expedition in history where climbers succeeded in the Everest – Lhotse combination, reaching the summit of two 8000-meter peaks back to back in less than 24 hours. He has since repeated this ‘doubleheader’ combination in 2013, 2018 and 2022 and is currently the only climber in the world to have done so 4 times. Garrett holds the record for guiding climbers (9) in reaching the summits of two 8000-meter peaks within 24 hours.
In 2014, Garrett led the first successfully ‘guided’ ascent of K2, arguably the hardest and most dangerous mountain in the world. He reached the summit with 2 clients and 3 Sherpas on July 27, 2014, again on July 22, 2018, with 8 clients, 3 guides and 15 Sherpas, and most recently on July 28, 2021, with a summit team of 21. Garrett also regularly guides many ‘7 Summits’ expeditions during the year such as Mount Vinson, Carstensz Pyramid, Mount Elbrus, Aconcagua, Kilimanjaro, etc., as well as first ascents of unclimbed peaks in the Himalayas. As an Emmy award-winning producer, Garrett is regularly consulted on Everest and other film productions, including Sports Illustrated’s Capturing Everest.
Garrett holds multiple high-altitude mountaineering world records, such as being the only person to climb Mount Everest and nearby Mount Lhotse in a day, four times. He is the only American to climb K2 three times and has personally led more climbers (clients) to the summits of Mount Everest and K2 than anyone.
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