Eldorado Peak – Washington, USA 2,703m / 8,868ft.

Eldorado Peak

We offer several excellent climbing programs in Washington State. These peaks are located in National Parks, surrounded by old growth forest, and are heavily glaciated. Climbing these mountains involves a one-day approach through the forest, then a few days climbing on glaciers using technical climbing equipment such as the ice axe, crampons, and climbing rope. Known as the Alps of the United States, he best months to climb in Washington are July, August, and September. We offer mountaineering courses as well as summit climbs on these majestic peaks.

Eldorado Peak (8,868 ft.), located in the North Cascades, has been called the “Queen of the Cascade River” by Fred Beckey owing to it’s position in the middle of a collection of gorgeous peaks. A true alpine experience on the summit ridge offers a worthy objective to any climber in the Pacific Northwest. We climb the stunning East Ridge route offering views of many Northwest peaks. This climb offers a great training for many of our international climbs.

We regularly organize custom programs for private groups. We are happy to accommodate your program dates, as well as other specific requests related to the itinerary, amenities, and group size. Please contact us if you would like to know more about custom programs.

Day 1: Meet in Seattle in the evening, orientation and check equipment, prepare for an early morning drive to Eldorado.

Day 2: Drive to trail head and begin our approach to base camp. We arrive in the alpine meadow and make camp.

Day 3: Today we review technical climbing skills such as ice axe arrest, cramponing, and rope travel. We go to bed early in preparation for an early start.

Day 4: Summit day! We begin in the pre dawn hours and climb up the glacier and the very exposed summit ridge, then arrive at the summit. We descend to camp.

Day 5: We pack camp and hike out to the trailhead, then drive to Seattle for a celebration dinner and conclude our program.

Eldorado Peak Climb
Deposit: $600
Balance due 90 days prior to departure

2020 Departures:
July 31 – August 4
August 27 – 31
September 4 – 8
September 18 – 22

Ice Axe: A short ice axe no longer than 60 cm.
Crampons: General mountaineering crampons
Trekking Poles: Adjustable poles for the trek to base camp
Climbing harness: An alpine climbing harness
Carabineers: 4 locking and 2 non locking
Belay / Rappel device: For rappelling or belaying climbers
Helmet: Must fit over a thick hat
Light hiking boots or trekking shoes: For the trek to base camp.
Mountaineering Boots: A double plastic or insulated synthetic boot.
Socks: Minimum 3 pair thick mountaineering socks and 3 pair liner socks
Short Underwear: 1 pair of synthetic short underwear
Long Underwear: 1-2 pair lightweight long underwear pants and shirts. 1 pair of heavy expedition weight long underwear.
Soft Shell Jacket: A hooded jacket
Soft Shell pants: For trekking and climbing
Insulated Jacket: Primaloft or Down
Hard Shell Jacket: To be worn in wet conditions
Hard Shell Pants: To be worn in wet conditions, these pants should have full side zippers.
Headlamp: Bring extra batteries
Warm Hat: A warm fleece or wool hat.
Balaclava: to cover your face and neck on windy days.
Sun hat: A baseball style sun camp.
Buff: 1-2 of these to wear around your neck & face to block the wind, UV rays, dust.
Glacier Glasses: wrap around style sunglasses with dark lenses
Goggles: With dark lenses.
Soft Shell Gloves: 1 pair
Shell gloves with insulated liner: 1 pair
Expedition Backpack: A 65+ liter internal frame back pack.
Sleeping Bag: Rated to at least -0 °F. Down is preferable over synthetic.
Compression stuff sacks: for reducing volume for your sleeping bag and down jacket.
Self Inflating pad: A full length air mattress
Closed Cell foam pad: Full length is best
Headlamp: Bring a spare set of batteries
Cup: 16oz. minimum
Bowl: ½ liter minimum capacity
Spoon: Plastic (lexan)
Sunscreen: 2 tubes, SPF 40 or stronger
Lipscreen: 2 sticks, SPF 30 or stronger
Water bottles: 2 bottles with 1 liter capacity each
Water Purification System: Tablets or Steripen
Water Bottle Parkas: To keep your water from freezing
Pee Bottle: 1 liter capacity minimum
Pee Funnel: For Women
Knife: Optional
Toiletry Bag: Toothpaste, Toothbrush, baby wipes, etc.
Hand Sanitizer: 1 small bottle
Trash Compactor bags (4): To line stuff sacks and separate gear
Camera: lightweight with extra batteries
Travel Clothes: For days in Seattle.
Small duffel bag: to store items in the hotel
Small Personal First Aid Kit: Athletic tape, band aids, Ibuprofen, Moleskin, blister care products, personal medications, cough drops.

• Acetazolamide (Diamox) for altitude illness
• Antibiotics such as Ciprofloxin or Azithromycin for gastro intestinal or respiratory illness
• Ibuprofen for muscle soreness
• Pepto Bismol for loose stool
• Excedrin for headaches
• anti nausea medications.

Climbing Snacks:
• Electrolyte Replacement Drink Mix: Bring a supply for 4 days such as Nuun.
• Energy Gel: Single serving gel packs such as GU, Clifshot, Powergel, etc.)
• Energy Bars: Power bar, Cliff bar, etc.
• Candy Bars: Snickers, Mars, Twix, Milky Way, etc.
• Hard Candy: 1 cup
• Crackers: 1 box

Madison Mountaineering is recognized for well thought out strategy in high altitude climbing expeditions, as well as high-quality service throughout. Because we have two decades of experience in the planning and coordination of mountaineering expeditions, our reputation is excellent. We strive to make each expedition the best possible experience for our climbers and focus on our 3 primary goals of success in reaching the summit, returning safely, and having fun!

Our guides are some of the best and most experienced in the industry, having a strong grasp of technical climbing, expedition, and high altitude experience, along with strong interpersonal skills. Our teams are small and equipped with the best support available to ensure the highest chance of success. We are renowned for our comfortable base camps, high-quality food, first-rate communications, and medical support services, all of which are overseen by a professional member of our team.

Most of our climbers have either climbed with us before, been referred by a friend who has climbed with us, or met one of our teams while attempting another peak and decided to join us for their next expedition. We work hard to facilitate safe, successful, and enjoyable expeditions for all of our climbers. Our track record and past climber testimonials prove we are not only experts in our field, but we also love what we do!

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