Garrett Madison

Garrett Madison

President / Founder / Expedition Leader

Garrett Madison began guiding professionally in 1999 on Mount Rainier, and is now America’s premier Everest climber and guide. As Expedition Leader, he has personally lead 37 climbers to the summit of Everest over the last 7 years, more than any other American. In 2011, Garrett led the first expedition in history where climbers succeeded in the Everest – Lhotse combination, reaching the summit of two 8000 meter peaks in less than 24 hours (while personally guiding one climber peak to peak in 21 hours), and again repeated this “double header” in 2013. Garrett is currently the only climber in the world to repeat this “peak to peak” combination, and holds the record for guiding climbers (4) in this endeavor. In 2014, Garrett led the first ever successfully ‘guided’ ascent of K2, arguably the hardest and most dangerous mountain in the world, reaching the summit with 2 climbers and 3 Sherpas on July 27, 2014. Garrett also regularly guides many “7 Summits” expeditions such as Aconcagua, Vinson, Kilimanjaro, Elbrus, etc., during the year. In addition, Garrett is regularly involved with film productions on Everest, participating in 4 different features over the last 3 years.

Resume (significant ascents & expeditions):

  • Everest (6 expeditions / ascents)
  • K2 (1 expedition / ascent)
  • Mt. Rainier (over 183 ascents)
  • Lhotse, 4th highest (2 ascents)
  • Makalu expedition (5th highest)
  • Manaslu expedition (8th highest)
  • Cho Oyu expedition (6th highest)
  • Aconcagua (11 expeditions)
  • Denali (3 expeditions)
  • Mt. Vinson, Antarctica (9 expeditions)
  • Kilimanjaro, Africa (3 expeditions)
  • Ama Dablam, Nepal (3 expeditions)
  • Mexico Volcanoes (6 expeditions)
  • Ecuador Volcanoes (2 expedition)
  • Peru (Cordillera Blanca)
  • Numerous climbs in Washington State (Mt. Baker, Shuksan, Olympus, North Cascades, etc.)

Personal Climbs

  • 6 ascents of Mont Blanc
  • 1 ascent of the Matterhorn
  • 1 attempt of Mt. Nuptse, Nepal (reached 7200 meters)

Certifications

  • Wilderness First Responder
  • Level 2 Avalanche Forecasting for Guides
  • Leave No Trace Trainer