Tag: International Climbs

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Madison Mountaineering is among a very select few companies that operate mountaineering expeditions in Antarctica, which includes expeditions on Mount Vinson.

Garrett Madison has led 16 successful expeditions to Mt. Vinson over the last 12 years. Each of these climbs was successful in reaching the top of Mount Vinson, the highest point in Antarctica. Madison Mountaineering’s approach to leading small and self-sufficient teams allows us the flexibility to adapt to changing conditions in Antarctica and accommodate the needs of our climbers. Our ’expedition style’ approach on Vinson provides climbers with the relevant climbing and expedition experience to apply on bigger and more challenging peaks throughout the world.

Who is your guide?
In addition to leading 16 climbs of Mt. Vinson, Garrett Madison has led ten successful climbs of Mt. Everest, two on K2, and many other expeditions around the globe. Garrett is a pleasant person to spend time with and is perhaps one of the best ‘expedition leaders’ in regards to balancing climber safety, reaching the summit, and having a great time throughout the program.

The Journey to Vinson
Our journey begins in the Tierra del Fuego (Spanish for “Land of Fire”) in Chile’s southernmost city of Punta Arenas, located on the strait of Magellan. A large statue of the famous explorer towers over the town square. Legend has it that those who kiss the statue are destined to return! After a briefing with our flight logistics operator, we depart in an Ilyushin 76 Russian cargo jet and fly 4 ½ hours over the Drake passage and then over a large part of the Antarctic continent, landing on a large strip of blue ice nearby the Union Glacier camp. We generally spend a day or two here then fly via twin otter aircraft 45 minutes to Vinson base camp, where we begin our climb.

Part of the Ellsworth mountain range, Mt. Vinson is the highest peak in Antarctica, approx. 600 miles from the South Pole and over 1,200 miles from the beginning of the Antarctic Peninsula. Traveling to Antarctica is an incredible experience in itself, as most Antarctic tourists merely catch a glimpse of the Antarctic peninsula from a cruise ship. Vinson climbers actually fly onto the continent (an opportunity normally only reserved for government-funded scientists or support personnel) and experience the surreal environment of inland Antarctica. A pristine land of ice, snow, and rock, Antarctica is actually a desert, with the least precipitation of any continent on Earth. At our intermediate camp in Antarctica located on Union Glacier, we have the opportunity to interact with other Antarctic explorers as well as scientists doing meaningful research in their fields.

We break the ascent of Vinson into several stages. With two higher camps above our base camp, we have the opportunity to acclimate along the way and rest during the ascent. Most of the climbing is on glaciated slopes, with one full day on a steep snow and ice slope utilizing fixed ropes. The final day to the top involves climbing the summit ridge with amazing views of the surrounding peaks as well as looking to the horizon of ice as far as the eye can see. Generally, we have stable weather during the climbing season of December and January, as this is the summer season in the southern hemisphere with 24 hours of daylight in Antarctica. The average temperature is well below 0°F, and occasionally the winds can reach up to 40 mph. Climbers should have experience climbing in cold conditions, be comfortable carrying a 40 lb. backpack, and possess appropriate glacier travel experience. Please contact us to discuss the prerequisites for this expedition.

Program details
• Your mountain guide will meet you in Punta Arenas to conduct your gear check and be with you for the entire program (other companies have you meet your guide at the mountain).
• Small team size, with a maximum of five climbers with one guide.
• Flexibility to adjust to changing mountain conditions, as well as possible flight delays.
• The best food on the mountain. Garrett Madison is famous for his signature meals on Vinson that never disappoint! (Think eggs, pancakes, and bacon for breakfast, meat, fish, with vegetables and a rice or potato dish for dinner)
• Expert leadership throughout.
• A dedicated and extremely knowledgeable person of contact in the Madison Mountaineering office to assist with any pre-trip questions.
• A travel agent well versed in booking flights for Vinson climbers, and available to make changes should you choose to change your itinerary.
• Regular dispatches: Keep family members and friends informed through our daily dispatch from the mountain accessed on our website.

We regularly organize custom programs for private groups. We are happy to accommodate your program dates, as well as other specific requests related to the itinerary, amenities, and group size. Please contact us if you would like to know more about custom programs.

Day 1: Arrive in Punta Arenas, Chile. A representitive will meet you upon arrival at the airport and take you to our hotel. After settling in, we will conduct a thorough equipment check, and then have a group dinner at one of the many fine restaurants.

Day 2: After breakfast we attend a pre flight briefing with our flight operator, and discuss many aspects of the journey to Antarctica. In the afternoon we send our duffel bags to the airport to be checked and packed for departure. We have the late afternoon and evening to explore the city.

Day 3: Depart for Antarctica. We fly approximately 5 hours over the Drake Passage and land at Union Glacier camp. We generally spend 1-2 nights at this camp.

Day 4: Review rope travel, Ice axe arrest, and crevasse rescue techniques.

Day 5: Fly to Vinson base camp, establish base camp.

Day 6: Climb to Camp 1, establish camp.

Day 7: Rest in Camp 1 and review fixed line climbing techniques.

Day 8: Climb up the Branscomb ridge, carrying a load to our Camp 2, return to Camp 1 for the night.

Day 9: Climb to Camp 2 and establish camp.

Day 10: Rest in Camp 2; evaluate weather conditions for a summit attempt.

Day 11: Summit day! We climb the glaciated slopes to the summit ridge, and then traverse the ridgeline to the highest point in Antarctica. Return to Camp 2 for the night.

Day 12: Descend from Camp 2 to Vinson Base Camp, spend the night at VBC.

Day 13: Fly back to Union Glacier Camp this day.

Day 14: Fly from Union Glacier Camp to Punta Arenas

Day 15: Depart Punta Arenas for home.

Days 16-18: Extra days in case of bad weather or flight delays.

Mount Vinson Climb: $44,495
Deposit: $10,000

Available Departures:
Nov 24, 2020
Dec 05, 2020
Dec 16, 2020
Dec 27, 2020 — with co-guide Conrad Anker (to be confirmed)
Jan 07, 2021

Costs Include:
‌• Round trip flights from Punta Arenas to Antarctica
• All flights within Antarctica to reach Vinson base camp and back
• All accommodation and services while in Antarctica
• All meals in Antarctica
• All team equipment (tents, ropes, cooking equipment, etc.)
• All communications equipment such as VHF radios and satellite phone
• Guide service fees
• Daily weather forecasting during the climb

Costs Do Not Include:
• Bank transfer fees, if needed
• Accommodation and meals in Punta Arenas
• Personal items (see equipment list)
• Medical and Evacuation Insurance (required)
• Trip cancellation insurance (highly recommended)
• Any charges incurred that are beyond the control of Madison Mountaineering, LLC
• All prices and program dates are subject to change

Mt. Vinson Cancellation and Refund Policy:
Each deposit includes a $5,000 non-refundable registration fee that secures your flight reservation to Antarctica. A full refund, minus the registration fee will be provided if a refund request is made in writing and received by our office 120 days before the program begins. No refunds will be provided from the 120-day period leading up to the start of the expedition.

Base Layers
• Short Underwear: 1 pair of synthetic short underwear
• Lightweight Long Underwear: 1-2 pair lightweight long underwear pants and shirts
• Heavyweight Long Underwear:1 pair of heavy expedition weight long underwear
• Short-Sleeve Synthetic Shirt

Mid Layers
• Soft Shell Jacket: A hooded jacket
• Soft Shell pants: For trekking and climbing
• Lightweight Nylon Pants (optional)

Windproof/Rain Layers
• Hard Shell Jacket: To be worn in wet conditions
• Hard Shell Pants: To be worn in wet conditions, these pants should have full side zippers

Insulation Layers
• Insulated Jacket: Primaloft or Down
• Insulated Synthetic Pants (optional)

Headwear
• Warm Hat: A warm fleece or wool hat
• Balaclava: to cover your face and neck on windy days
• Sun hat: A baseball style sun camp
• Buff: 1-2 of these to wear around your neck & face to block the wind, UV rays, dust

Eyewear
• Glacier Glasses: wrap-around style sunglasses with dark lenses
• Goggles: With dark lenses

Gloves
• Lightweight synthetic liner gloves
• Soft Shell Gloves: 1 pair
• Shell gloves with insulated liner: 1 pair

Footwear
• Liner Socks: 3 pair
• Wool or synthetic mountaineering socks: 3 pair
• Mountaineering Boots: A double plastic or insulated synthetic boot
• Light hiking boots or trekking shoes: For the trek to base camp
• Gaiters

Sleeping Equipment
• Sleeping Bag: Rated to at least 20° F. Down is preferable over synthetic
• Self Inflating pad: A full-length air mattress
• Closed Cell foam pad: Full-length is best
• Earplugs

Mountaineering Gear
• Expedition Backpack: A 65+ liter internal frame backpack
• Compression stuff sacks: for reducing volume for your sleeping bag and down jacket
• Trash Compactor bags (4): To line stuff sacks and separate gear
• Trekking Poles: Adjustable poles for the trek to base camp
• Ice Axe: A short ice axe no longer than 60cm
• Crampons: General mountaineering crampons
• Climbing Helmet: Must fit over a thick hat
• Alpine climbing harness: mountaineering harness, with adjustable leg loops. Not a rock-climbing “sport”
harness
• Carabineers: 4 locking and 2 non-locking
• Belay / Rappel device: For rappelling or belaying climbers
• Headlamp: with 2 extra sets of new batteries

Luggage
• Small duffel bag: to store items in the hotel/car
• Travel Clothes: For days in Seattle, etc.

Additional Food Items
• Snack food (suggestions):
  • Electrolyte Replacement Drink Mix: Bring a supply for 4 days such as Nuun
  • Energy Gel: Single serving gel packs such as GU, Clifshot, Powergel, etc.)
  • Energy Bars: Power bar, Cliff bar, etc.
  • Candy Bars: Snickers, Mars, Twix, Milky Way, etc.
  • Hard Candy: 1 cup
  • Crackers: 1 box

Other Equipment
• Cup: 16oz. minimum
• Bowl: ½ liter minimum capacity
• Spoon: Plastic (Lexan)
• Water bottles: 2 bottles with 1-liter capacity each
• Water Bottle Parkas: To keep your water from freezing
• Insulated bottle/Thermos (optional)
• Water Purification System: Tablets or Steripen
• Sunscreen: 2 tubes, SPF 40 or stronger
• Lip screen: 2 sticks, SPF 30 or stronger
• Toiletry Bag: Toothpaste, Toothbrush, baby wipes, hand sanitizer, etc.
• Pee Bottle: 1-liter capacity minimum
• Knife or multitool (optional)
• Small Personal First Aid Kit: Athletic tape, band-aids, Ibuprofen, Moleskin, blister care products, personal
medications, cough drops
• Medications and prescriptions:
  • Acetazolamide (Diamox) for altitude illness
  • Antibiotics such as Ciprofloxin or Azithromycin for gastrointestinal or respiratory illness
  • Ibuprofen for muscle soreness
  • Pepto Bismol for loose stool
  • Excedrin for headaches
  • Anti-nausea medications

Optional Electronics
• Adventure Watch (such as Garmin fenix)
• GPS / Personal Satellite Communicator (such as Garmin inReach)
• Personal power system (such as Goal Zero Nomad 28 Plus Solar Panel and Sherpa 100AC Power Bank)
• Kindle/e-reader/digital entertainment
• Camera: lightweight with extra batteries
• Smartphone

Other Optional Items
• Lightweight journal, sketchbook, pencils, pen
• Female urination device (FUD)
• Handkerchiefs/bandanas

Madison Mountaineering is recognized for well thought out strategy in high altitude climbing expeditions, as well as high-quality service throughout. Because we have two decades of experience in the planning and coordination of mountaineering expeditions, our reputation is excellent. We strive to make each expedition the best possible experience for our climbers and focus on our 3 primary goals of success in reaching the summit, returning safely, and having fun!

Our guides are some of the best and most experienced in the industry, having a strong grasp of technical climbing, expedition, and high altitude experience, along with strong interpersonal skills. Our teams are small and equipped with the best support available to ensure the highest chance of success. We are renowned for our comfortable base camps, high-quality food, first-rate communications, and medical support services, all of which are overseen by a professional member of our team.

Most of our climbers have either climbed with us before, been referred by a friend who has climbed with us, or met one of our teams while attempting another peak and decided to join us for their next expedition. We work hard to facilitate safe, successful, and enjoyable expeditions for all of our climbers. Our track record and past climber testimonials prove we are not only experts in our field, but we also love what we do!

More Climbs

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The first and only successfully guided commercial mountaineering expedition to K2 was led by Madison Mountaineering in 2014. On July 27th, 2014 Garrett Madison reached the summit of K2 along with climbers Alan Arnette and Matthew Dupuy (read the expedition dispatches). We plan to return to K2 in 2017 and hope to repeat our success, bringing a team of 6 climbers.

Climbing K2 is much more challenging and far more dangerous than climbing Everest via the standard North or South side routes, and for this reason we plan to keep our team size small and comprised of qualified climbers, supported by some of the best climbing Sherpas and mountain guides in the world. Unlike on Everest, because the weather and route conditions are notoriously fickle on K2, we must be prepared to take advantage of very brief periods of good weather. Rock fall and snow avalanches are common on the route following K2’s Abruzzi ridge, making it often unsafe to climb or camp (as evidenced by the 2013 tragedy), and the monolithic ice cliff which overhangs the “bottleneck” and “traverse” portions of the route on summit day sheds ice frequently (as evidenced by the 2008 tragedy), so taking advantage of good route conditions and moving quickly are paramount.

8000 meter peaks such as Everest, Cho Oyu, and Manaslu are now frequented by commercial operators coordinating together to set the fixed ropes, therefore sharing this work load, however since K2 is undeveloped we will likely be working alone or with only one other team to set the fixed lines. Additionally, relying on support from other teams for help is not available so we must be self sufficient throughout.

Unfortunately the food available in Pakistan is not the best for foreigners, so we have developed a meal plan that encompasses the entire trek and climb. Most of this food is brought from the USA, and we have a Nepalese cook who we have worked with for many years who (with his staff) meticulously prepares each meal for our team. On the mountain our guides and Sherpas help prepare the meals. We find that climbers perform much better, and are often in better spirits, when the food is appetizing and nutritious.

We employ many porters to ferry our expedition loads to base camp. The trek to K2 base camp is more than twice the distance as the trek to Everest base camp (south side), and is considerably more arduous being mostly on glacier and loose rock. There are no villages or lodges (as on the Everest trek) so we must transport our entire camp kit by porters each day as we move our caravan towards base camp. Each porter on hire requires an additional porter to carry food and personal items, so we have a small army making our way up and down the Baltoro Glacier. It is very important to differentiate ourselves from other operators in that we have a very nice base camp, with large common tents with heating for dining and communications, and comfortable personal tents for each member. Being here almost 2 months, it is important for our team to have a comfortable camp, as well as to have access to the internet via a satellite modem (this cost is free to all members). We have modern VHF radios for communications on the mountain, and each member is issued their own radio. We also have satellite phones available to members.

We have regular access to hot showers, sinks for washing multiple times daily, one sanitary toilet tent for men and one for women, as well as ample space for storing your personal equipment securely.

Above base camp (16,300’) we have 5 camps: Advanced Base Camp (17,400’), Camp 1 (19,900’), Camp 2 (21,980’), Camp 3 (23,800), and Camp 4 (25,300’). Unlike many teams who share tents in various camps, we have our own dedicated tents in each camp that are preset to reserve our space at the beginning of the season. One should note that at Camp 1 and Camp 2 there is only space for 6-8 tents maximum, so if you arrive late in the season you must share a tent with another team that already has their camp established if you wish to use that camp. Much of the route leading up to Camp 4 is on steep snow or ice slopes, however there is also significant rock. Portions of the route such as House’s Chimney and The Black Pyramid involve sustained periods of vertical rock climbing, so one should be well versed using crampons on steep rock at high altitude.

Our plan is to climb partway up the route reaching Camp 3 to acclimatize before making our summit rotation. For details regarding our acclimatization and Oxygen strategy please contact our office.

On summit day we begin the gradual ascent of “the Shoulder” on hard snow and ice leading up to the bottleneck, a rock and snow climb under the looming Serac. Next is the “Traverse” which is mostly front pointing, and then the upper snow slopes leading to K2’s summit, where we are often breaking trail through knee deep snow. The view from the top is amazing!

Climber Testimonials

”The expedition was everything and more. The summit was great, but the team was the bonus — Garrett, man we got on so well. That made K2 for me. You selected well and were the perfect leader allowing us to be the mountaineers we are. Words won’t express my gratitude in the overall expedition. Thank you so much!”
-Jason Black, 2018 K2 Climber

”It was my pleasure and honor to be on your team for K2. A terrific experience, superbly planned and well executed.”
-James Clarke, 2018 K2 Climber

”It was a pleasure and a privilege to be a part of the 2015 Madison Mountaineering expedition to K2. Garrett did an outstanding job of managing the logistics, personnel, equipment and most importantly the safety of the climb. Despite the difficult conditions that resulted from the poor weather this season in the region the trip was an absolute success delivering a well organized, safe and dynamic experience for all those that participated. Madison did a terrific job in balancing all the complexities of organizing such a complex expedition to a region that has it challenges in terms of access, communications, comfort and safety. I would absolutely sign up again.”
-Brant Didden, 2015 K2 Climber

”We were very satisfied with the Madison Mountaineering K2 Expedition, especially the staff, the logistics, the base camp, and how the expedition was managed start to finish. We very much appreciated the experienced sherpas and Garrett’s ’previous summit’ knowledge of K2.”
-Tanel Tuuleveski & Andras Kassik, 2015 K2 Climbers

”Despite the bad weather and unsafe route conditions that prevented us and all other climbers on K2 in 2015 from making the summit, I felt the expedition was safe, enjoyable, and a great experience. The base camp was well equipped with a spacious dining tent, comfortable personal tents for individual climbers, great food, a satellite modem that all climbers could use to get on the internet, and nightly films on a big screen. The highly skilled sherpas and our experienced/qualified guides were a key part of our success and safety on the mountain. Even though we did not summit the experience was priceless”
-Thomas Boyer, 2015 K2 Climber

”I wouldn’t hesitate to join Madison Mountaineering on any future 8000m expeditions they put together. Garrett and his team have the expertise to make the most challenging climbs safe, comfortable and fun. Madison Mountaineering provides a balance of expertise, comfort and safety that is unparalleled by any other guiding service I have used. They make the farthest flung corners of the world fun to adventure in. I would not have summited K2 without Garrett and his team.”
-Matthew Du Puy, 17th American to summit K2 thanks to Madison Mountaineering

”On July 27, 2014, my birthday, I became the oldest American to summit K2. The professionalism and skill of Garrett Madison was key in this achievement. His attention to detail, plus leveraging his extensive Everest experience gave our team the best chance to summit and descend safely and quickly on arguably the world’s toughest mountain.”
-Alan Arnette, Fort Collins, CO

Day1: Arrive Islamabad early in the morning, gear check, group welcome dinner and stay in our 4-star hotel.

Day 2: Fly via fixed wing aircraft from Islamabad to Skardu. Explore the village and relax in the gardens of the hotel overlooking the Indus River.

Day 3: Drive to Askole in jeeps.

Day 4: Trek to Korofong 3,100m (10,320’).

Day 5: Trek to Bardumal 3,305m (10,906’).

Day 6: Trek to Paiju 3,383m (11,164’).

Day 7: Trek to Khoburtse 3,566m (11,768’).

Day 8: Trek to Urdukas 4,130m (13,630’).

Day 9: Trek to Goro 2 4,250m (14,025’).

Day 10: Trek to Concordia 4,600m (15,180’).

Day 11: Arrive K2 base camp 5,650m (18,650’).

Day 12-16: Rest days in base camp. Organize equipment, short hikes & climbs for acclimatization. If climbers are feeling well acclimatized we may begin our first ‘rotation’ without using all 5 of these rest days.

Days 17-40: Climbing period. We make at least one rotation climbing to Camps 1, 2 and 3 before making our summit attempt. During this time we establish our route and high camps, and evaluate the weather for our summit rotation. We hope to summit between July 25-August 5.

Day 41-43: Organize gear for departure.

Day 44: Trek to Goro 2.

Day 45: Trek to Paiju.

Day 46: Trek to Askole.

Day 47: Drive from Askole to Skardu by jeep.

Day 48: Fly Skardu to Islamabad.

Day 49: Islamabad to USA.

Days 50-60: Contingency days in case of bad weather.

K2 Abruzzi Ridge Route
June 18 – August 12, 2020

Cost: $69,500
Deposit: $25,000

Costs include:
• Airport pick up in Islamabad.
• 2 nights accommodations in Islamabad at 4 star hotel, 1 night before and 1 night after the expedition. (If additional nights in Islamabad are required climbers must pick up the extra nights)
• Welcome dinner in Islamabad, breakfast included with hotel stay (2 nights)
• Tents during the trek and climb. At base camp each climber will have a 3 person tent at base camp for personal use. We will have a private dining tent for our expedition, and a private communications tent for our expedition. A toilet tent and shower tents will also be provided exclusive to our team, as well as lights, heaters, and a power source for recharging your electronics.
• All food during the climb. No expense is spared in providing high quality food from the USA and Pakistan/Nepal. If you have particular dietary requirements, please give us specific details and we will accommodate your needs!
– All transportation in Pakistan, including round-trip flights from Islamabad to Skardu & Skardu to Islamabad. In the event these flights are cancelled we will usually wait a few days for another flight before making the 2 day journey by bus to Skardu.
• All group equipment needed to climb the mountain: ropes, tents, cooking gear, fuel, stoves, all forms of rock, ice, and snow protection, VHF radios for all members, other communication gear, plenty of oxygen for all climbers & Sherpas, oxygen mask & regulator, medical supplies, etc.
• Our Sherpa team will be in charge of fixing our route to the summit. Once we summit they will likely take these fixed ropes off the route upon our descent.
• Internet access & satellite phones in base camp. Satellite phone is available at $3 per minute.
• Professional weather forecasting services from USA & European based meteorologists.
• Sherpa, porters, liaison officer, camp staff and guides.
• All administration fees owed to Islamabad, including climbing permits.

Costs do not include:
• $25 Wire Transfer Fee (If Applicable)
• International round-trip airfare (USA-Pakistan-USA).
• Meals in Islamabad and extra hotel nights after the climb (once the climber has left the mountain). If we are delayed in Islamabad climbers must pay for additional nights.
• Personal gear for any standard 8000 meter peak expedition, clothing and sleeping equipment (see gear list).
• Insurance. A comprehensive medical insurance policy is required to embark on this expedition. An evacuation Insurance Policy is also mandatory. Helicopter evacuation from base camp costs approximately $40,000.
• Trip cancellation insurance. This is highly recommended.
• Comprehensive medical exam. A physician signed Medical Release Form is required.
• Alcoholic beverages and bottled drinks.
• All expenses incurred in the event of early departure (evacuation fees, transport, extra hotel nights, etc.).
• Personal Items.
• Charges incurred as a result of delays beyond the control of Madison Mountaineering, LLC.
• Personal communication (phone, fax, e-mail) between Pakistan and home country.
• Gratuities ($1000 Sherpa summit bonus for your personal Sherpa). Western guide gratuity.

Cancellation/Refund Policy
• There are no refunds for the deposit or balance payments for this expedition. This includes but is not limited to, expeditions that conclude without a summit or progress towards a summit for participants due to route conditions, weather, insufficient manpower, or any other factor outside the control of Madison Mountaineering. Expedition leader has the final say on the expedition conclusion and will make all best efforts within our margin of safety.
• Participants that choose to leave an active expedition for any reason are not entitled to any refunds
• Madison Mountaineering, LLC highly recommends trip cancellation insurance for all expeditions
• Due to the nature and heavy costs of government and operator permits, Madison Mountaineering must adhere to a stringent refund policy
• Deposit due with registration materials
• All balances are due 120 days prior to departure date unless otherwise specified
• Participants whose balances are not received by the 120-day deadline as stated above, risk forfeiture of their funds and their place on the expedition

Note: Madison Mountaineering, LLC reserves the right to waive any fees. As we offer personalized service, we will attempt to accommodate changes and cancellations when necessary, waiving certain fees when feasible. Deposits paid by participants acknowledge the above cancellation terms.

Ice Axe: General mountaineering tool (65cm)
Crampons: General mountaineering crampons
Climbing Helmet: Must be able to fit over your ski hat
Ascender: 1 right or left hand ascender (Petzel brand is best)
Alpine Climbing Harness: A mountaineering harness, with adjustable leg loops. Not a rock climbing “sport” harness.
Carabineers: 3 locking and 3 regular
Rappel device: ATC or figure 8
Mountaineering boots: Olympus Mons, Millet, ect.
Hiking shoes: comfortable boots or shoes for the trek to base camp.
Camp boots: comfortable boots for wearing in camp.
Booties: Optional, down is best.
Wool or synthetic socks: 6 pair
Liner socks: 3 pair
Synthetic Short underwear: A non cotton style underwear.
Lightweight Long Underwear: 2-3 pair longsleve shirt and long pants
Heavyweight long underwear: 1 pair
Short Sleeve Synthetic Shirt: 1-2 pair
Lightweight Nylon Pants: 1-2 pair
Soft Shell jacket: To be worn over other layers
Soft Shell Pants: Very breathable and water repellant
Hard Shell Jacket with hood: A waterproof and breathable shell jacket
Hard Shell Pants: Waterproof and breathable shell pants
Insulated Down Jacket with hood: We primarily wear this when climbing below Camp 2.
Insulated synthetic Pants: Worn primarily when climbing below Camp 2.
Down Suit: Feathered Friends, Sherpa, North Face, Mountain Hardwear, etc. We wear this climbing above Camp 2.
Warm Hat: Synthetic or wool hat (ski hat).
Balaclava: to protect your neck and face in high winds.
Baseball Camp or other sun hat: To shade your face / neck from the sun on a hot day.
Bandana or Buff: To protect your neck / face from the sun.
Glacier glasses: Full protection with side covers or wrap around.
Ski goggles: To be worn on summit day in the event of high winds.
Lightweight synthetic liner gloves: For wearing on a hot day.
Soft shell gloves: To wear for moderate cold / wind.
Shell glove with insulated liner: To wear for severe cold / strong wind.
Expedition Mitts: Large enough to fit a liner glove inside.
Expedition Backpack: 65L pack should be large enough.
Trekking Backpack: To carry on the trek to base camp. Simple and light.
Sleeping Bag (for high camps): Rated to at least -40°F. Goose down or synthetic.
Sleeping Bag (for base camp): rated to at least -20°F.
Compression stuff sacks: For reducing volume of the sleeping bag, down parka, etc., in your pack.
Self inflating sleeping pad (1 for base camp and 1 for high camps): Full length is preferred.
Closed cell foam pad: To be used in conjunction with the inflating pad for warmth and comfort when sleeping.
Trekking poles with snow baskets: Adjustable poles
Cup: A plastic 16 oz. minimum cup or mug
Bowl: A plastic bowl for eating dinner or breakfast out of
Spoon: Plastic spoon (lexan)
Headlamp: With 2 extra sets of new batteries
Sunscreen: SPF 50 or better
Lipscreen: SPF 30 or better (2 sticks).
Water bottles: 2 or 3 wide mouth bottles with 1 liter capacity.
Water bottle parkas (2): fully insulated with zip opening.
Thermos: 1 liter
Pee bottle: 1 liter minimum bottle for convenience at night in the tent.
Toiletry bag: Include toilet paper and hand sanitizer and small towel
Hand warmers & toe warmers: 3 sets of each. Or use Hot Tronics for food warmer system.
Knife or multi tool (optional).
Trash compactor bags: to line back pack and stuff sacks as well as for separating gear.
Camera: bring extra batteries and memory cards.
Travel Clothes: For days in Islamabad.
Duffel bags (2) with locks: To transport equipment.
Base Camp Items: Kindle, Ipad, smart phone, etc.
Snack food: Please bring a few days of your favorite climbing snack food such as bars, gels, nuts, beef jerky, etc. A variety of salty and sweet is good.
Small personal first aid kit: Include athletic tape, band aids, Ibuprofin, blister care, personal medications, etc.
Medications and Prescriptions: Bring antibiotics (Azithromycin, etc.), and altitude medicine such as Diamox and dexamethasone.

Madison Mountaineering is recognized for well thought out strategy in high altitude climbing expeditions, as well as high-quality service throughout. Because we have two decades of experience in the planning and coordination of mountaineering expeditions, our reputation is excellent. We strive to make each expedition the best possible experience for our climbers and focus on our 3 primary goals of success in reaching the summit, returning safely, and having fun!

Our guides are some of the best and most experienced in the industry, having a strong grasp of technical climbing, expedition, and high altitude experience, along with strong interpersonal skills. Our teams are small and equipped with the best support available to ensure the highest chance of success. We are renowned for our comfortable base camps, high-quality food, first-rate communications, and medical support services, all of which are overseen by a professional member of our team.

Most of our climbers have either climbed with us before, been referred by a friend who has climbed with us, or met one of our teams while attempting another peak and decided to join us for their next expedition. We work hard to facilitate safe, successful, and enjoyable expeditions for all of our climbers. Our track record and past climber testimonials prove we are not only experts in our field, but we also love what we do!

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Island Peak, a beautiful glaciated climb at 20,350’, is a great introduction to Himalayan climbing, as the terrain and climbing techniques resemble that of the nearby peaks of Everest and Lhotse. Trekking through the Khumbu Valley to Everest base camp is a life changing experience for many, as the spectacular mountain scenery integrated with Sherpa culture and Buddhist religion makes for truly engaging combination. We follow the same route to Base Camp as the Everest climbers and recount the historical ascents with the climbers who share our lodges along the way.

Day 1: Arrive in Kathmandu. We will pick you up at the airport and take you to the Yak & Yeti hotel. This is historically the ‘climbers hotel’ where many expeditions have stayed over the years. We enjoy a welcome dinner with the team.

Day 2: City tour of Kathmandu, we visit the Monkey Temple, Boudhanath (one of the holiest Buddhist sites in Kathmandu), Pashupatinath, and the Swayambhunath. After the tour we have dinner, then prepare for an early morning flight to Lukla.

Day 3: We fly by fixed-wing aircraft into Lukla, and begin our trek! We pass through several Sherpa villages and enter the Sagarmatha (Everest) National Park. After crossing the river by suspension bridge, we arrive in the village of Phakding.

Day 4: We continue trekking along the Dudh Kosi River through the village of Monjo, then up the hill to Namche Bazaar. Here we will spend 2 nights in our comfortable lodge acclimatizing and enjoying the sights and cafes in Namche.

Day 5: We go for an acclimatization hike and return to our lodge to rest and prepare for the next day of trekking.

Day 6: After breakfast, we head out of Namche and traverse the magnificent valley leaving towards Tengboche. Here we have spectacular views of Everest, Lhotse, and Ama Dablam for the first time. We arrive in Tengboche and tour the famous Tengboche Monastery, and then continue to Debuche where we spend the night in the Rivendell lodge.

Day 7: Depart Debuche and trek through the rhododendron forest then cross the river and hike up the short hill to Pangboche. Here we visit with Lama Geshe, the high lama of the Khumbu Valley, who many climbers visit for blessings before heading to climb peaks such as Everest, Lhotse, or Island Peak. We stay in Pangboche this evening.

Day 8: From Pangboche we gain elevation and have lunch in Shomari, near the pass where the valley divides. We then cross the river and arrive in Dingboche.

Day 9: After breakfast, we trek onward past Thugla and arrive in Lobuche, the highest yak grazing ground in the Khumbu Valley. We overnight in Lobuche.

Day 10: Trek to Gorak Shep. After checking into our lodge and having lunch, we hike up nearby Kala Patthar for an amazing view of Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, and the other surrounding peaks. We return to Gorak Shep for dinner.

Day 11: We trek to Everest base camp and visit one of the climbing team camps that are in operation for the season. After a few photos of the Khumbu Icefall, we return to Gorak Shep to spend the night.

Day 12: Today we descend down the valley to Dingboche where we rest and prepare for our trek to Chukung the following day.

Day 13: Arriving Chukung we organize our gear and prepare to leave the lodge setting for our camp at Island Peak base camp.

Day 14: After breakfast at the lodge we trek to our base camp, review some technical climbing skills then have an early dinner in preparation for our ‘alpine start.’

Day 15: We awake around midnight and set out in the pre-dawn hours climbing up the ridgeline, then onto the glacier. Once on the glacier we climb roped up and ascent to the prominent ridgeline where we utilize fixed ropes to negotiate the final slopes to the summit. We decent to our base camp and continue onward to Chukung where we are greeted with a hearty and well-deserved meal.

Day 16: From Chukung we trek to Namche, where we enjoy the many cafes and shops of the “capital of the Khumbu.”

Day 17: Trek to Lukla and spend our final night in the mountains.

Day 18. Fly to Kathmandu check into the Yak & Yeti hotel.

Day 19: Extra day for touring Kathmandu, visit shops and restaurants.

Day 20: Depart Kathmandu for home.

Cost: $5,650
Deposit: $2,000

2020
April 2 – April 22
October 22 – November 8

Costs Include:
• Accommodations at the Yak & Yeti hotel for two nights before and two nights after the trek
• Airport pick up upon arrival
• Welcome dinner in Kathmandu
• All in-country flights to Lukla
• All lodging while trekking
• All meals while trekking
• Permits and Park entrance fees
• American guide, Sherpa guide, Nepali staff to carry loads, etc.

Costs Do Not Include:
• Personal items (see Equipment list)
• Wire transfer fee
• Meals in Kathmandu
• Any bottled beverages while trekking
• Option to upgrade to a single room
• Cost for helicopter transport
• Any costs as the result of an early departure from the program

Cancellation/Refund Policy
• There are no refunds for the deposit or balance payments for this expedition. This includes but is not limited to, expeditions that conclude without a summit or progress towards a summit for participants due to route conditions, weather, insufficient manpower, or any other factor outside the control of Madison Mountaineering. Expedition leader has the final say on the expedition conclusion and will make all best efforts within our margin of safety.
• Participants that choose to leave an active expedition for any reason are not entitled to any refunds
• Madison Mountaineering, LLC highly recommends trip cancellation insurance for all expeditions
• Due to the nature and heavy costs of government and operator permits, Madison Mountaineering must adhere to a stringent refund policy
• Deposit due with registration materials
• All balances are due 120 days prior to departure date unless otherwise specified
• Participants whose balances are not received by the 120-day deadline as stated above, risk forfeiture of their funds and their place on the expedition

Note: Madison Mountaineering, LLC reserves the right to waive any fees. As we offer personalized service, we will attempt to accommodate changes and cancellations when necessary, waiving certain fees when feasible. Deposits paid by participants acknowledge the above cancellation terms.

Ice Axe: General mountaineering tool (65cm)
Crampons: General mountaineering crampons
Climbing Helmet: Must be able to fit over your ski hat
Ascender: 1 right or left hand ascender (Petzel brand is best)
Alpine Climbing Harness: A mountaineering harness, with adjustable leg loops. Not a rock climbing “sport” harness
Carabineers: 3 locking and 3 regular
Rappel device: ATC or figure 8
Mountaineering boots: A double plastic or insulated climbing boot
Hiking shoes: comfortable boots or shoes for the trek to base camp
Booties: Optional, down is best
Wool or synthetic socks: 3 pair
Liner socks: 3 pair
Synthetic Short underwear: A non cotton style underwear
Lightweight Long Underwear: 1-2 pair long sleeve shirt and long pants
Heavyweight long underwear: 1 pair
Short Sleeve Synthetic Shirt: 1-2 pair
Lightweight Nylon Pants: 1-2 pair
Soft Shell jacket: To be worn over other layers
Soft Shell Pants: Very breathable and water repellant
Hard Shell Jacket with hood: A waterproof and breathable shell jacket
Hard Shell Pants: Waterproof and breathable shell pants
Insulated Jacket with hood: Down or PrimaLoft
Insulated Synthetic Pants: Down or PrimaLoft
Sun hat: A baseball style cap
Synthetic or wool hat (ski hat)
Balaclava: to protect your neck and face in high winds
Baseball Camp or other sun hat: To shade your face / neck from the sun on a hot day
Bandana or Buff: To protect your neck / face from the sun
Glacier glasses: Full protection with side covers or wrap around
Ski goggles: To be worn on summit day in the event of high winds
Lightweight synthetic liner gloves: For wearing on a hot day
Soft shell gloves: To wear for moderate cold / wind
Shell glove with insulated liner: To wear for severe cold / strong wind
Climbing Backpack: A 40L pack should be large enough
Trekking Backpack: Optional, to use during the trek
Sleeping Bag: rated to at least -20°F
Compression stuff sacks: For reducing volume of the sleeping bag, down parka, etc.
Self inflating sleeping pad: Full length is preferred
Closed cell foam pad: To be used in conjunction with the inflating pad for warmth and comfort when sleeping.
Trekking poles: Adjustable
Headlamp: With extra batteries
Sunscreen: SPF 40 or better
Lip screen: SPF 40 or better (2 sticks).
Water bottles: 2 or 3 wide mouth bottles with 1 liter capacity.
Pee bottle: 1 liter minimum bottle for convenience at night in the tent.
Toiletry bag: Include toilet paper and hand sanitizer and small towel
Knife or multi tool (optional).
Trash compactor bags: to line back pack and stuff sacks in the event of rain or wet snow is falling on us.
Camera: bring extra batteries and memory cards.
Travel Clothes: For days in Kathmandu.
Duffel bags (2) with locks: To transport equipment.
Base Camp Items: Kindle, Ipad, smart phone, etc.
Snack food: Please bring 1-2 days of your favorite climbing snack food such as bars, gels, nuts, beef jerky, etc. A variety of salty and sweet is good.
Small personal first aid kit: Include athletic tape, band aids, Ibuprofen, blister care, personal medications, etc.
Medications and Prescriptions: Bring antibiotics (Azithromycin, etc.), and altitude medicine such as Diamox and dexamethasone.

Madison Mountaineering is recognized for well thought out strategy in high altitude climbing expeditions, as well as high-quality service throughout. Because we have two decades of experience in the planning and coordination of mountaineering expeditions, our reputation is excellent. We strive to make each expedition the best possible experience for our climbers and focus on our 3 primary goals of success in reaching the summit, returning safely, and having fun!

Our guides are some of the best and most experienced in the industry, having a strong grasp of technical climbing, expedition, and high altitude experience, along with strong interpersonal skills. Our teams are small and equipped with the best support available to ensure the highest chance of success. We are renowned for our comfortable base camps, high-quality food, first-rate communications, and medical support services, all of which are overseen by a professional member of our team.

Most of our climbers have either climbed with us before, been referred by a friend who has climbed with us, or met one of our teams while attempting another peak and decided to join us for their next expedition. We work hard to facilitate safe, successful, and enjoyable expeditions for all of our climbers. Our track record and past climber testimonials prove we are not only experts in our field, but we also love what we do!

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The sixth highest peak on Earth, Cho Oyu is a great introduction to climbing above 8000 meters, and excellent preparation for Everest. Cho Oyu is located along the Nepal / Tibet border and we access the mountain from the Tibetan (Northern) side. The route we climb (West Face) is relatively moderate, with only a few sections of steep rock or ice. After the 2 day trek to base camp we arrive in our very comfortable camp, complete with a large dining tent, a state of the art communications tent, and top of the line personal and shower tents. From here we begin our acclimatization process, and make two rotations up the mountain to our higher camps before our summit attempt. Joining us will be our top climbing Sherpas who also frequently climb with us on Everest, and assist in establishing the route and setting our camps. Many of these Sherpas will also climb with us to the summit, where the view of Everest, Lhotse, and other 8000 meter peak is spectacular! Join us for this wonderful experience, an expedition climb of an 8000-meter peak in style!

Photo Credit this page: Ben Jones

Day 1: Arrive in Kathmandu. You will be picked up at the airport and driven to the Yak & Yeti hotel. We will have a group welcome dinner and orientation.

Day 2: Equipment check, then city tour of Kathmandu.

Day 3: Drive to Zhangmu.

Day 4: Drive to Nylam.

Day 5: Rest and acclimatize in Nylam.

Day 6: Drive to the small village of Tingri. We go for a short acclimatization hike and have a spectacular view of Cho Oyu, as well as Everest from the Northern side.

Day 7: Drive to trail head (initial base camp), camp and organize gear.

Day 8: If needed we rest here or go for acclimatization hikes.

Day 9: Today we hike to the intermediate camp.

Day 10: Trek to base camp.

Day 11: Rest and organize gear in base camp.

Day 12-14: Review technical climbing skills and acclimatize with short hikes.

Days 15-16: First rotation to Camp 1 and near Camp 2.

Days 17-19: Rest in base camp. Prepare for next rotation.

Day 20-22: Second rotation to Camps 1 and 2.

Day 23-25: Rest in base camp and evaluate weather conditions.

Day 26-30: Summit rotation.

Days 31-35: Extra days in case of bad weather, etc. Organize gear in base camp and prepare to trek out.

Day 36: Trek to trail head and drive to Tingri.

Day 37: Drive from Tingri to Kathmandu.

Day 38: Enjoy the restaurants and shops in Kathmandu.

Day 39: Depart Nepal for country of residence.

Day 40: Arrive home.

September 1 – October 10, 2020
Cost: $32,750
Deposit: $10,000

Costs Includes:
• Airport pickup upon arrival in Kathmandu
• Accommodations at the Yak & Yeti hotel for 2 nights before and 2 nights after the expedition.
• All ground transport during the expedition.
• All accommodations during the drive to base camp.
• All group gear such as tents, cooking equipment, climbing gear.
• Oxygen (3 bottles), mask, regulator.
• Communications equipment (VHF base station, hand held radios, satellite internet access -500MB of data free, this is a $3500 value not counting hardware costs and set up fees)
• All food and meals during the expedition outside of Kathmandu.
• All climbing permits and administration expenses owed to China.
• Western guide, support staff including climbing Sherpas, cooks, porters.

Costs Do Not Include:
• Wire transfer fee
• Airfare to Nepal
• Meals in Nepal
• All expenses incurred for an early departure from the expedition.
• Medical and evacuation insurance, trip cancellation insurance.
• Personal items (see gear list)

Cancellation/Refund Policy
• There are no refunds for the deposit or balance payments for this expedition. This includes but is not limited to, expeditions that conclude without a summit or progress towards a summit for participants due to route conditions, weather, insufficient manpower, or any other factor outside the control of Madison Mountaineering. Expedition leader has the final say on the expedition conclusion and will make all best efforts within our margin of safety.
• Participants that choose to leave an active expedition for any reason are not entitled to any refunds
• Madison Mountaineering, LLC highly recommends trip cancellation insurance for all expeditions
• Due to the nature and heavy costs of government and operator permits, Madison Mountaineering must adhere to a stringent refund policy
• Deposit due with registration materials
• All balances are due 120 days prior to departure date unless otherwise specified
• Participants whose balances are not received by the 120-day deadline as stated above, risk forfeiture of their funds and their place on the expedition

Note: Madison Mountaineering, LLC reserves the right to waive any fees. As we offer personalized service, we will attempt to accommodate changes and cancellations when necessary, waiving certain fees when feasible. Deposits paid by participants acknowledge the above cancellation terms.

Ice Axe: General mountaineering tool (65cm)
Crampons: General mountaineering crampons
Climbing Helmet: Must be able to fit over your ski hat
Ascender: 1 right or left hand ascender (Petzel brand is best)
Alpine Climbing Harness: A mountaineering harness, with adjustable leg loops. Not a rock climbing “sport” harness.
Carabineers: 3 locking and 3 regular
Rappel device: ATC or figure 8
Mountaineering boots: Olympus Mons, Millet, etc.
Hiking shoes: comfortable boots or shoes for the trek to base camp.
Camp boots: comfortable boots for wearing in camp.
Booties: Optional, down is best.
Wool or synthetic socks: 6 pair
Liner socks: 3 pair
Synthetic Short underwear: A non cotton style underwear.
Lightweight Long Underwear: 2-3 pair long sleeve shirt and long pants
Heavyweight long underwear: 1 pair
Short Sleeve Synthetic Shirt: 1-2 pair
Lightweight Nylon Pants: 1-2 pair
Soft Shell jacket: With or without hood
Soft Shell Pants: With accessory side pockets
Hard Shell Jacket with hood: A waterproof and breathable shell jacket
Hard Shell Pants: Waterproof and breathable shell pants
Down Parka with hood: This “puffy” jacket we wear when taking breaks when climbing below Camp 3.
Insulated synthetic Pants: These are nice to have when climbing below Camp 3.
Down Suit: Feathered Friends, Sherpa, North Face, Mountain Hardwear, etc. We wear this above Camp 3.
Synthetic or wool hat (ski hat).
Balaclava: to protect your neck and face in high winds.
Baseball Cap or other sun hat: To shade your face / neck from the sun on a hot day.
Bandana or Buff: To protect your neck / face from the sun.
Glacier glasses: Full protection with side covers or wrap around.
Ski goggles: To be worn on summit day in the event of high winds.
Lightweight synthetic liner gloves: For wearing on a hot day.
Soft shell gloves: To wear for moderate cold / wind.
Shell glove with insulated liner: To wear for severe cold / strong wind.
Expedition Mitts: Large enough to fit a liner glove inside.
Expedition Backpack: 65L pack should be large enough.
Trekking Backpack: To carry on the trek to base camp. Simple and light.
Sleeping Bag (for high camps): Rated to at least -40°F. Goose down or synthetic.
Sleeping Bag (for base camp): rated to at least -20°F.
Compression stuff sacks: For reducing volume of the sleeping bag, down parka, etc., in your pack.
Self inflating sleeping pad (1 for base camp and 1 for high camps): Full length is preferred.
Closed cell foam pad: To be used in conjunction with the inflating pad for warmth and comfort when sleeping.
Trekking poles: Adjustable
Cup: A plastic 16 oz. minimum cup or mug
Bowl: A plastic bowl for eating dinner or breakfast out of
Spoon: Plastic spoon (lexan)
Headlamp: With 2 extra sets of new batteries
Sunscreen: SPF 50 or better
Lip screen: SPF 30 or better (2 sticks).
Water bottles: 2 or 3 wide mouth bottles with 1 liter capacity.
Water bottle parkas (2): fully insulated with zip opening.
Thermos: 1 liter
Pee bottle: 1 liter minimum bottle for convenience at night in the tent.
Toiletry bag: Include toilet paper and hand sanitizer and small towel
Hand warmers & toe warmers: 3 sets of each. Or use Hot Tronics for food warmer system.
Knife or multi tool (optional).
Trash compactor bags: to line back pack and stuff sacks in the event of rain or wet snow is falling on us.
Camera: bring extra batteries and memory cards.
Travel Clothes: For days in Kathmandu.
Duffel bags (2) with locks: To transport equipment.
Base Camp Items: Kindle, Ipad, smart phone, etc.
Snack food: Please bring a few days of your favorite climbing snack food such as bars, gels, nuts, beef jerky, etc. A variety of salty and sweet is good.
Small personal first aid kit: Include athletic tape, band aids, Ibuprofen, blister care, personal medications, etc.
Medications and Prescriptions: Bring antibiotics (Azithromycin, etc.), and altitude medicine such as Diamox and dexamethasone.

Madison Mountaineering is recognized for well thought out strategy in high altitude climbing expeditions, as well as high-quality service throughout. Because we have two decades of experience in the planning and coordination of mountaineering expeditions, our reputation is excellent. We strive to make each expedition the best possible experience for our climbers and focus on our 3 primary goals of success in reaching the summit, returning safely, and having fun!

Our guides are some of the best and most experienced in the industry, having a strong grasp of technical climbing, expedition, and high altitude experience, along with strong interpersonal skills. Our teams are small and equipped with the best support available to ensure the highest chance of success. We are renowned for our comfortable base camps, high-quality food, first-rate communications, and medical support services, all of which are overseen by a professional member of our team.

Most of our climbers have either climbed with us before, been referred by a friend who has climbed with us, or met one of our teams while attempting another peak and decided to join us for their next expedition. We work hard to facilitate safe, successful, and enjoyable expeditions for all of our climbers. Our track record and past climber testimonials prove we are not only experts in our field, but we also love what we do!

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Mt. Elbrus is the highest peak in Europe, and is a non-technical climb but requires good physical conditioning and use of crampons on the hard snow slopes. We begin our adventure in the old capital city of St. Petersburg with a city tour of this beautiful European city, then transfer to the Baksan valley where we spend several days acclimatizing on the mountain slopes before making our ascent of Elbrus. Our itinerary is well thought out as we have ample time for acclimatization and weather delays. The summit provides amazing views of the Caucus mountain range. This is an excellent peak to train on if you are intending to climb in the Himalaya or Alaska ranges.

We regularly organize custom programs for private groups. We are happy to accommodate your program dates, as well as other specific requests related to the itinerary, amenities, and group size. Please contact us if you would like to know more about custom programs.

Day 1: Arrive Moscow. After retrieving your bags and clearing customs, our representative, identifiable by a Madison Mountaineering sign, will transport you to our hotel. We will gather together as a team for a nice welcome dinner.

Day 2: Moscow city tour. After a leisurely breakfast, we will tour the city of Moscow with a Russian guide. Highlights include Red Square, St. Basil’s Cathedral, and the Kremlin Armoury.

Day 3: Travel to Terskol, at the foot of Mt. Elbrus. In the morning, we fly from Moscow to Mineral Vody, then travel by motorcoach to the Baksan Valley arriving at our hotel in Terskol, our base of operations situated at the foot of Mt. Elbrus. After settling in, your guide will conduct a gear check. There are well-equipped climbing shops in the area for those last-minute or forgotten items. Options also exist for gear rental. The village of Terskol is located on the edge of the 60-mile long Baksan Valley at an elevation of 2140 m / 7,021 ft.

Day 4: We spend the day acclimatizing by hiking through the Baksan Valley and touring the Cheget Cupola. We sleep in our hotel in Terskol.

Day 5: We take the ski lift and go for an acclimatization hike on Mt. Cheget (3470 m / 11,385 ft). From here we have a perfect view of Mt. Elbrus, as well as our climbing route.

Day 6: We gather our climbing gear and ride the ski lifts to the Shelter LeapRus huts (3700 m / 12,140 ft), hike up to 4526 m / 14,850 ft. We have dinner in the huts and enjoy the fantastic view.

Day 7: From the huts, we continue acclimatizing and conduct a climbing skills review. Afterward, we make final preparations for our summit attempt.

Day 8: Summit Day! We awake early for an alpine start and depart camp before dawn. We climb to the summit of Europe’s highest peak and then descend back to the LeapRus huts for the night. *We have an additional cost option to ride a snowcat up to 4550 m / 14,928 ft at the start of the climb; shortening our summit day and increasing our chance for success.

Day 9: We descend from the huts to our hotel in Terskol for a celebration BBQ dinner as we recap our summit success.

Day 10: Extra day in case of bad weather or other delays.

Day 11: Travel to St. Petersburg. We depart early morning from Terskol, travel by motorcoach to the airport in Mineral Vody and fly to St. Petersburg.

Day 12: St. Petersburg city tour. After breakfast, we will meet with our Russian tour guide and visit the major sites of St. Petersburg, such as the Hermitage Museum (The Winter Palace), The Church of Our Savior on the Spilled Blood, and the Fabergé Museum.

Day 13: Depart St. Petersburg. After a morning shuttle to the Pulkovo Airport (LED), we bid farewell to Russia and depart for home.

Mount Elbrus Climb: $5,950
Deposit: $2,000

2020 Departures:
July 24 – August 6
August 1 – 14

Costs Include:
• Airport pick up and transfer to the hotel upon arrival in Moscow and St. Petersburg
• All accommodations and transportation in-country during the program on regular itinerary
• All domestic flights
• All hut fees
• Park entrance fees
• Tents, ropes, and other group climbing equipment
• All expedition logistics including climbing permits
• All equipment necessary to make a strong and safe attempt for the summit
• All expedition staff including mountain guide and local support staff
• All breakfast and dinners while climbing (snacks not included)
• City tours of Moscow and St. Petersburg

Costs Do Not Include:
• Bank and wire transfer fees (if applicable)
• Russian tourist visa fees
• International air travel to and from Russia
• Food or dining outside of the climbing period
• Alcoholic beverages
• Bottled or canned beverages
• Specialty coffee or espresso drinks
• Personal clothing and equipment
• Personal travel insurance, trip cancellation insurance and medical or security evacuation insurance
• Any rescue costs or costs of early departure from the expedition
• Costs from arriving early or leaving late
• Any costs due to flight delays/cancellations
• Personal excess baggage costs
• Customary gratuities to local expedition staff, porters and guides
• Personal climbing equipment (see equipment list)
• Incidental expenses such as tips, telephone, bar, laundry, or other personal expenses.
• Force majeure / costs for delays that are beyond the control of Madison Mountaineering LLC and the expedition

Cancellation/Refund Policy
• There are no refunds for the deposit or balance payments for this expedition. This includes but is not limited to, expeditions that conclude without a summit or progress towards a summit for participants due to route conditions, weather, insufficient manpower, or any other factor outside the control of Madison Mountaineering. Expedition leader has the final say on the expedition conclusion and will make all best efforts within our margin of safety.
• Participants that choose to leave an active expedition for any reason are not entitled to any refunds
• Madison Mountaineering, LLC highly recommends trip cancellation insurance for all expeditions
• Due to the nature and heavy costs of government and operator permits, Madison Mountaineering must adhere to a stringent refund policy
• Deposit due with registration materials
• All balances are due 120 days prior to departure date unless otherwise specified
• Participants whose balances are not received by the 120-day deadline as stated above, risk forfeiture of their funds and their place on the expedition

Note: Madison Mountaineering, LLC reserves the right to waive any fees. As we offer personalized service, we will attempt to accommodate changes and cancellations when necessary, waiving certain fees when feasible. Deposits paid by participants acknowledge the above cancellation terms.

• Ice Axe: A 65 cm ice axe.
• Crampons: A general mountaineering crampon
• Climbing Harness: An alpine harness rather than a sport climbing harness
• Carabineers: 2 locking
• Trekking Poles: Adjustable poles
• Trekking Boots: comfortable trekking boots or mid top hiking shoes.
• Climbing Boots: A double plastic or insulated synthetic boot.
• Gaiters: To keep snow out of your boots
• Socks: Minimum 3 pair thick mountaineering socks and 3 pair liner socks
• Short Underwear: 1-2 pair of synthetic short underwear
• Long Underwear: 1-2 pair lightweight long underwear pants and shirts. 1 pair of heavy expedition weight long underwear.
• Trekking pants: Nylon pants worn during warm days.
• Soft Shell Jacket: A hooded jacket
• Soft Shell pants: For trekking and climbing
• Insulated Jacket: PrimaLoft or Down
• Expedition Down Parka: A hooded down jacket with 800 minimum down fill.
• Insulated Pants: PrimaLoft or Down, these should have full side zippers.
• Hard Shell Jacket: To be worn in wet conditions
• Hard Shell Pants: To be worn in wet conditions, these pants should have full side zippers.
• Headlamp: Bring extra batteries
• Warm Hat: A warm fleece or wool hat.
• Balaclava: to cover your face and neck on windy days.
• Sun hat: A baseball style sun camp.
• Buff: 1-2 of these to wear around your neck & face to block the wind, UV rays, dust.
• Glacier Glasses: wrap around style sunglasses with dark lenses
• Goggles: With dark lenses.
• Soft Shell Gloves: 1 pair
• Shell gloves with insulated liner: 1 pair
• Shell mittens with insulated liner: 1 pair
• Backpack: A 40 liter back pack.
• Sleeping Bag: Rated to at least -20 °F. Down is preferable over synthetic.
• Compression stuff sacks: for reducing volume for your sleeping bag and down jacket.
• Headlamp: Bring a spare set of batteries
• Sunscreen: SPF 50 or stronger
• Lip screen: SPF 30 or stronger
• Water bottles: 2 bottles with 1 liter capacity each
• Water Bottle Parkas: To keep your water from freezing
• Pee Bottle: 1+ liter capacity recommended
• Pee Funnel: For Women
• Knife: Optional
• Toiletry Bag: Toothpaste, Toothbrush, baby wipes, etc.
• Hand Sanitizer: 2 small bottles
• Hand warmers / Toe warmers: 1-2 sets of each for summit day
• Trash Compactor bags (3): To line stuff sacks and separate gear
• Camera: lightweight with extra batteries
• Travel Clothes: For days in St. Petersburg and in Moscow.
• Large Duffel Bag with lock: for transporting all personal gear during the climb, waterproof is best.
• Small duffel bag: To store items in the hotel
• Small Personal First Aid Kit: Athletic tape, band aids, Ibuprofen, Moleskin, blister care products, personal medications, cough drops.
• Water purification system: Steripen or tablets
Medications:
  ‣ Acetazolamide (Diamox) for altitude illness
  ‣ Antibiotics such as Ciprofloxin or Azithromycin for gastro intestinal or respiratory illness
  ‣ Ibuprofen for muscle soreness
  ‣ Pepto Bismol for loose stool
  ‣ Excedrin for headaches
  ‣ Anti-nausea medications.
Climbing Snacks:
  ‣ Electrolyte Replacement Drink Mix: Bring a supply for 6 days.
  ‣ Energy Gel: Single serving gel packs such as GU, Clifshot, Powergel, etc.)
  ‣ Energy Bars: Power bar, Cliff bar, etc.
  ‣ Candy Bars: Snickers, Mars, Twix, Milkey Way, etc.

Madison Mountaineering is recognized for well thought out strategy in high altitude climbing expeditions, as well as high-quality service throughout. Because we have two decades of experience in the planning and coordination of mountaineering expeditions, our reputation is excellent. We strive to make each expedition the best possible experience for our climbers and focus on our 3 primary goals of success in reaching the summit, returning safely, and having fun!

Our guides are some of the best and most experienced in the industry, having a strong grasp of technical climbing, expedition, and high altitude experience, along with strong interpersonal skills. Our teams are small and equipped with the best support available to ensure the highest chance of success. We are renowned for our comfortable base camps, high-quality food, first-rate communications, and medical support services, all of which are overseen by a professional member of our team.

Most of our climbers have either climbed with us before, been referred by a friend who has climbed with us, or met one of our teams while attempting another peak and decided to join us for their next expedition. We work hard to facilitate safe, successful, and enjoyable expeditions for all of our climbers. Our track record and past climber testimonials prove we are not only experts in our field, but we also love what we do!

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Trekking through the Khumbu Valley to Everest base camp is a life changing experience for many, as the spectacular mountain scenery integrated with Sherpa culture and Buddhist religion makes for a truly engaging combination. We follow the same route to Base Camp as the Everest climbers and recount the historical ascents with the climbers who share our lodges along the way. We have the option to climb Island Peak, a beautiful glaciated climb at 20,350’. This is a great introduction to Himalayan climbing, as the terrain and climbing techniques resemble that of the nearby peaks of Everest and Lhotse.

Day 1: Arrive in Kathmandu. We will pick you up at the airport and take you to the Yak & Yeti hotel. This is historically the ‘climbers hotel’ where many expeditions have stayed over the years. We enjoy a welcome dinner with the team.

Day 2: City tour of Kathmandu, we visit the Monkey Temple, Boudhanath (one of the holiest Buddhist sites in Kathmandu), Pashupatinath, and the Swayambhunath. After the tour we have dinner, then prepare for an early morning flight to Lukla.

Day 3: We fly by fixed wing aircraft into Lukla, and begin our trek! We pass through several Sherpa villages, and enter the Sagarmatha (Everest) National Park. After crossing the river by suspension bridge, we arrive in the village of Phakding.

Day 4: We continue trekking along the Dudh Kosi River through the village of Monjo, then up the hill to Namche Bazaar. Here we will spend 2 nights in our comfortable lodge acclimatizing and enjoying the sights and cafes in Namche.

Day 5: We go for an acclimatization hike and return to our lodge to rest and prepare for the next day of trekking.

Day 6: After breakfast we head out of Namche and traverse the magnificent valley towards Tengboche. Here we have spectacular views of Everest, Lhotse, and Ama Dablam for the first time. We arrive in Tengboche and tour the famous Tengboche Monastery, and then continue to Debuche where we spend the night in the Rivendell lodge.

Day 7: Depart Debuche and trek through the rhododendron forest then cross the river and hike up the short hill to Pangboche. Here we visit with Lama Nawang Paljur, the high lama of the Khumbu Valley, who many climbers visit for blessings before heading to climb peaks such as Everest, Lhotse, or Island Peak. We continue up the valley to Dingboche to stay this evening.

Day 8: Today we do an acclimatization hike above Dingboche to gain spectacular views of Cho Oyu, Makalu, and Lhotse, then return to our lodge in Dingboche to spend the night.

Day 9: After breakfast we trek onward past Thugla and arrive in Lobuche, the highest yak grazing ground in the Khumbu Valley. We overnight in Lobuche.

Day 10: Trek to Gorak Shep. After checking into our lodge and having lunch, we hike up nearby Kala Patthar for an amazing view of Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, and the other surrounding peaks. We return to Gorak Shep for dinner.

Day 11: We trek to Everest base camp and visit one of the climbing team camps that are in operation for the season. After a few photos of the Khumbu Icefall we return to Gorak Shep to spend the night.

Day 12: Today we descend down the valley to Debuche where we are acquainted with our friends in the Rivendell lodge.

Day 13: From Debuche we trek to Namche, where we enjoy the many cafes and shops of the “capital of the Khumbu.”

Day 14: Trek to Lukla and spend our final night in the mountains.

Day 15. Fly to Kathmandu check into the Yak & Yeti hotel.

Day 16: Extra day for touring Kathmandu, visit shops and restaurants.

Day 17: Depart Kathmandu for home

Cost: $4,600
Deposit: $1,500

2020
April 2 – 18

Costs Include:
• Accommodations at the Yak & Yeti hotel for two nights before and two nights after the trek
• Airport pick up upon arrival
• Welcome dinner in Kathmandu
• All in country flights to Lukla
• All lodging while trekking
• All meals while trekking
• Permits and Park entrance fees
• American guide, Sherpa guide, Nepali staff to carry loads, etc.

Costs Do Not Include:
• Personal items (see Equipment list)
• Wire transfer fee
• Meals in Kathmandu
• Alcoholic beverages
• Bottled or canned beverages
• Specialty coffee or espresso drinks
• Option to upgrade to single room
• Cost for helicopter transport
• Any costs as the result of an early departure from the program

Cancellation/Refund Policy
• There are no refunds for the deposit or balance payments for this expedition. This includes but is not limited to, expeditions that conclude without a summit or progress towards a summit for participants due to route conditions, weather, insufficient manpower, or any other factor outside the control of Madison Mountaineering. Expedition leader has the final say on the expedition conclusion and will make all best efforts within our margin of safety.
• Participants that choose to leave an active expedition for any reason are not entitled to any refunds
• Madison Mountaineering, LLC highly recommends trip cancellation insurance for all expeditions
• Due to the nature and heavy costs of government and operator permits, Madison Mountaineering must adhere to a stringent refund policy
• Deposit due with registration materials
• All balances are due 120 days prior to departure date unless otherwise specified
• Participants whose balances are not received by the 120-day deadline as stated above, risk forfeiture of their funds and their place on the expedition

Note: Madison Mountaineering, LLC reserves the right to waive any fees. As we offer personalized service, we will attempt to accommodate changes and cancellations when necessary, waiving certain fees when feasible. Deposits paid by participants acknowledge the above cancellation terms.

Hiking shoes: comfortable boots or shoes for the trek to base camp.
Wool or synthetic socks: 3 pair
Liner socks: 3 pair
Synthetic Short underwear: A non cotton style underwear.
Lightweight Long Underwear: 1-2 pair longsleve shirt and long pants
Heavyweight long underwear: 1 pair
Short Sleeve Synthetic Shirt: 1-2 pair
Lightweight Nylon Pants: 1-2 pair
Soft Shell jacket: To be worn over other layers
Hard Shell Jacket with hood: A waterproof and breathable shell jacket
Hard Shell Pants: Waterproof and breathable shell pants
Insulated Jacket: Down or Primaloft
Synthetic or wool hat (ski hat).
Baseball Cap or other sun hat: To shade your face / neck from the sun on a hot day.
Bandana or Buff: To protect your neck / face from the sun.
Glacier glasses: Full protection with side covers or wrap around.
Lightweight synthetic liner gloves: For wearing on a hot day.
Soft shell gloves: To wear for moderate cold / wind.
Trekking Backpack: To carry on the trek to base camp. Simple and light.
Sleeping Bag: rated to at least -20°F.
Compression stuff sacks: For reducing volume of the sleeping bag, down parka, etc., in your pack.
Trekking poles: Adjustable
Headlamp: With extra batteries
Sunscreen: SPF 40 or better
Lipscreen: SPF 40 or better (2 sticks).
Water bottles: 2 wide mouth bottles with 1 liter capacity.
Pee bottle: 1 liter minimum bottle for convenience at night in the tent.
Toiletry bag: Include toilet paper and hand sanitizer and small towel.
Knife or multi tool (optional).
Trash compactor bags: to line back pack and stuff sacks in the event of rain or wet snow is falling on us.
Camera: bring extra batteries and memory cards.
Travel Clothes: For days in Kathmandu.
Duffel bags (2) with locks: To transport equipment.
Entertainment Items: Kindle, Ipad, smart phone, etc.
Small personal first aid kit: Include athletic tape, band aids, Ibuprofin, blister care, personal medications, etc.
Medications and Prescriptions: Bring antibiotics (Azithromycin, etc.), and altitude medicine such as Diamox.

Madison Mountaineering is recognized for well thought out strategy in high altitude climbing expeditions, as well as high-quality service throughout. Because we have two decades of experience in the planning and coordination of mountaineering expeditions, our reputation is excellent. We strive to make each expedition the best possible experience for our climbers and focus on our 3 primary goals of success in reaching the summit, returning safely, and having fun!

Our guides are some of the best and most experienced in the industry, having a strong grasp of technical climbing, expedition, and high altitude experience, along with strong interpersonal skills. Our teams are small and equipped with the best support available to ensure the highest chance of success. We are renowned for our comfortable base camps, high-quality food, first-rate communications, and medical support services, all of which are overseen by a professional member of our team.

Most of our climbers have either climbed with us before, been referred by a friend who has climbed with us, or met one of our teams while attempting another peak and decided to join us for their next expedition. We work hard to facilitate safe, successful, and enjoyable expeditions for all of our climbers. Our track record and past climber testimonials prove we are not only experts in our field, but we also love what we do!

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The Mexico Volcanoes are a great way to gain high altitude climbing experience on glaciated peaks in a relatively short time frame. Traveling in this region of Mexico is very safe, and easily accessible from the United States. Orizaba, at 18, 860’ is the third highest peak in North America. Neighboring Izta, the “sleeping lady” at 17,350’ is the seventh highest on the continent. We spend time visiting the historic city of Puebla between climbing these volcanoes, and have ample time as well for the museum of anthropology in Mexico City. The combination of rich cultural experience along with high altitude glacier climbing make this program a great value given the short time period in which we can accomplish so much. These peaks are a wonderful way to get acquainted with climbing at altitude, in preparation for a longer and more demanding climb such as Aconcagua, the Ecuador Volcanoes, or Denali.

We regularly organize custom programs for private groups. We are happy to accommodate your program dates, as well as other specific requests related to the itinerary, amenities, and group size. Please contact us to find out more about custom programs.

Day 1: Depart country of residence and arrive in Mexico City. We will pick you up at the airport and check in at our hotel in the heart of the city. After an equipment check and orientation we will enjoy a welcome dinner together at one of the many fine restaurants that serve traditional Mexican cuisine.

Day 2: We depart our hotel after breakfast, then spend a few hours in the museum of Anthropology reviewing the fascinating history of Aztec and Toltec ancient civilization before heading to the village of Amecameca, and then on to the Altzimoni hut on Izta, at 14,000’. Across the plain we can see the neighboring peak Popo.

Day 3: Today we go for an acclimatization hike from our hut to around 15,000’, enjoying a picnic style lunch on the trail with incredible views, and then return to our hut for dinner. From our hut we have a nice view of the “Paseo de Cortes” the mountain Pass that Hernando Cortes and his men crossed to fine the city of Tenochticlan.

Day 4: We climb to our high camp at 14,950’ and review proper techniques for using the ice axe, crampons, and climbing rope. After an early dinner we go to bed in preparation for an ‘alpine start.’

Day 5: We leave camp before dawn and climb to the Ayaloco glacier. From here we rope up and don crampons and ice axe, then climb snow slopes to the summit ridge, and then to the true summit of Izta. The view is amazing, and after a rest we descend to camp. We pack up our camp and continue our descent to the trail head where we drive to the City of Puebla. Here we will spend two nights in a nice hotel, touring this historical city and many fine restaurants.

Day 6: Rest day in Puebla, pack and organize gear for Orizaba.

Day 7: We depart Puebla after breakfast and drive to the village of Tlachichuca. Here we have lunch at our outfitter’s house, then transfer our gear into his 4 X 4 jeeps and begin the drive up to the Piedra Grande Hut (14,100’).

Day 8: We climb to our high camp on Orizaba and after dinner prepare for another ‘alpine start’.

Day 9: We leave before dawn, and gain the glacier where we rope up and don crampons and ice axe. From here we ascend the final 2,000’ to the summit of Orizaba, the highest volcano in North America. We descend to camp, pack up our belongings, then continue to the Piedra Grande hut where our outfitter will meet us. We drive back to Tlachichuca and then to Mexico City where we spend the night in a hotel.

Day 10: We depart Mexico for our country of residence.

Mexico Volcanoes Climb: $3,650
Deposit: $1,700

2020 Departures:
October 3-12
October 17-26

Costs Include:
• Airport pick up upon arrival
• 2 nights hotel accommodation in Mexico City and 2 nights hotel accommodation in Puebla (double occupancy)
• All group gear such as ropes, tents, cooking equipment, VHF radios, satellite phone, etc.
• All food while climbing
• Climbing permits, hut fees, Park entrance fees
• All transport in Mexico
• Mountain guides
• Porters (for carrying gear to high camps)
• Museum entrance fees

Costs Do Not Include:
• Airfare
• Personal Items
• Trip Cancellation Insurance
• Fees for early departure
• Wire transfer fees
• Option to upgrade to single room

Cancellation/Refund Policy
• There are no refunds for the deposit or balance payments for this expedition. This includes but is not limited to, expeditions that conclude without a summit or progress towards a summit for participants due to route conditions, weather, insufficient manpower, or any other factor outside the control of Madison Mountaineering. Expedition leader has the final say on the expedition conclusion and will make all best efforts within our margin of safety.
• Participants that choose to leave an active expedition for any reason are not entitled to any refunds
• Madison Mountaineering, LLC highly recommends trip cancellation insurance for all expeditions
• Due to the nature and heavy costs of government and operator permits, Madison Mountaineering must adhere to a stringent refund policy
• Deposit due with registration materials
• All balances are due 120 days prior to departure date unless otherwise specified
• Participants whose balances are not received by the 120-day deadline as stated above, risk forfeiture of their funds and their place on the expedition

Note: Madison Mountaineering, LLC reserves the right to waive any fees. As we offer personalized service, we will attempt to accommodate changes and cancellations when necessary, waiving certain fees when feasible. Deposits paid by participants acknowledge the above cancellation terms.

• Ice Axe: A mountaineering ice axe with straight shaft, generally a 60-65 cm ice axe will work well.
• Crampons: Mountaineering crampons rather than water ice climbing crampons.
• Trekking poles: Adjustable poles
• Climbing Harness: An alpine style climbing harness
• Carabineers: 2 locking
• Mountaineering boots: A double plastic or well insulated mountaineering boot with removable liners is preferable.
• Gaiters: to fit over your boots, these help keep small rocks and dirt out of your boots.
• Mountaineering Socks (3 Pair): Wool or Synthetic
• Liner Socks (3 Pair): A thin sock to be worn under the mountaineering sock to reduce friction.
• Camp booties: Optional
• Toe Warmers: Optional
• Underwear (1-2): Synthetic is best
• Long underwear pants (2-3 pair): 2 pair of lightweight and 1 pair medium or heavy weight.
• Long underwear shirts (1-2 pair): 1-2 pair of lightweight, and 1 medium or heavy weight. These should be long sleeve.
• Insulated Jacket: This can be a lightweight down or prima loft jacket, fleece jacket, or soft shell jacket.
• Hard Shell Jacket: A waterproof and breathable jacket designed to be worn in rain, snow, and high wind.
• Hard Shell Pants: A waterproof and breathable pant designed to be worn in rain, snow, and high wind. Full side zippers on each pant is preferable.
• Expedition Down Parka: A very substantial down parka with minimum 800 fill down. This can be worn over all layers.
• Insulated Pants: Prima loft or down pants, full side zippers are preferable.
• Warm Hat: Wool or fleece.
• Balaclava: to protect your neck and face.
• Buff or Bandana: To cover your face and neck, can keep out the dust.
• Sun hat: A baseball style hat or other sun hat.
• Glacier Glasses: dark lenses that wrap around
• Goggles: To be worn in high winds
• Liner Gloves: Fleece or wool
• Soft Shell Gloves: for cold and windy conditions
• Heavy Glove or Mitten: with removable liners
• Hand warmers: Optional
• Expedition Backpack: An 65 liter internal frame back pack.
• Sleeping Bag: Rated to at least -10 °F. Down is preferable over synthetic.
• Compression stuff sacks: for reducing the volume of your sleeping bag and down parka.
• Self Inflating pad: A full length air mattress
• Closed Cell foam pad: Full length is best
• Headlamp: Bring a spare set of batteries
• Cup: 16oz. minimum
• Bowl: ½ liter minimum capacity
• Spoon: Plastic (lexan)
• Sunscreen: SPF 50 or stronger
• Lip screen: SPF 30 or stronger
• Water bottles: 2 bottles with 1 liter capacity each
• Water Purification System: Tablets or Steripen
• Pee Bottle: 1 liter capacity minimum
• Pee Funnel: For Women
• Knife: Optional
• Toiletry Bag: Toothpaste, Toothbrush, baby wipes, etc.
• Hand Sanitizer: 2 small bottles
• Hand warmers / Toe warmers: 3 sets of each
• Trash Compactor bags (4): To line stuff sacks and separate gear
• Camera: lightweight with extra batteries
• Travel Clothes: For days in Mexico City & in Puebla.
• Large Duffel Bag with lock: for transporting all personal gear.
• Small duffel bag: to store items in the hotels.
• Small Personal First Aid Kit: Athletic tape, band aids, Ibuprofen, Moleskin, blister care products, personal medications, cough drops.
Medications:
  ‣ Acetazolamide (Diamox) for altitude illness
  ‣ Antibiotics such as Ciprofloxin or Azithromycin for gastro intestinal or respiratory illness
  ‣ Ibuprofen for muscle soreness
  ‣ Excedrin for headaches  ‣ Anti-nausea medications.
• Climbing Snacks
:
  ‣ Electrolyte Replacement Drink Mix: Bring a supply for 6 days.
  ‣ Energy Gel: Single serving gel packs such as GU, Clifshot, Powergel, etc.)
  ‣ Energy Bars: Power bar, Cliff bar, etc.
  ‣ Candy Bars: Snickers, Mars, Twix, Milky Way, etc.

Madison Mountaineering is recognized for well thought out strategy in high altitude climbing expeditions, as well as high-quality service throughout. Because we have two decades of experience in the planning and coordination of mountaineering expeditions, our reputation is excellent. We strive to make each expedition the best possible experience for our climbers and focus on our 3 primary goals of success in reaching the summit, returning safely, and having fun!

Our guides are some of the best and most experienced in the industry, having a strong grasp of technical climbing, expedition, and high altitude experience, along with strong interpersonal skills. Our teams are small and equipped with the best support available to ensure the highest chance of success. We are renowned for our comfortable base camps, high-quality food, first-rate communications, and medical support services, all of which are overseen by a professional member of our team.

Most of our climbers have either climbed with us before, been referred by a friend who has climbed with us, or met one of our teams while attempting another peak and decided to join us for their next expedition. We work hard to facilitate safe, successful, and enjoyable expeditions for all of our climbers. Our track record and past climber testimonials prove we are not only experts in our field, but we also love what we do!

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At 15,773’, Mont Blanc is one of the most iconic mountains in the world, as well as a highly coveted summit being the highest peak in Western Europe and the birthplace of mountaineering. Mont Blanc is equally beautiful and challenging, and we are very excited to offer this climb in a style that fits with our other programs. Victor Saunders and Kris Erikson lead this program for Madison Mountaineering.

Climbing in the European Alps is unique in that tram access from Chamonix valley to the glaciated climbing terrain of the Mont Blanc massif allows one to acclimate very quickly. With lavish mountain huts situated throughout the Mont Blanc massif, we travel light knowing that our meals and a comfortable bed await! We can easily review climbing techniques such as self arrest, rope travel, cramponing, then make our summit attempt when the weather window is optimal.

For climbers continuing with us to climb the Matterhorn, we journey a few hours from Chamonix to Zermatt, perhaps an equally beautiful setting located in Swiss Alps. The Matterhorn, although slightly less in elevation than Mont Blanc, is technically more challenging because of the steep rock ridge lines we ascend on our way to the summit.

We regularly organize custom programs for private groups. We are happy to accommodate your program dates, as well as other specific requests related to the itinerary, amenities, and group size.

Day 1: Depart country of residence.

Day 2: Arrive in Geneva, Switzerland, then travel by private car to the village of Chamonix in the afternoon. We then meet for an orientation and welcome dinner.

Day 3: After breakfast we conduct a gear check then leave the hotel and take the tram to access the high country. We hike to about 9,000’ where we reach our mountain hut. Here we practice self arrest, rope travel, and crampon technique.

Day 4: After a leisurely morning we pack our gear and depart the hut for a day of glacier climbing. We attempt to summit at least one peak today, then descend back to the hut for a well deserved meal.

Day 5: We make another summit attempt on a nearby peak, furthering our exploration of the massif, and then return to the hut, then descend the mountain before heading back into town.

Day 6: After a leisurely morning in Chamonix we review our climbing strategy for Mont Blanc. Then we take the tram and from the top station we hike a few hours to reach the Tete Rousse hut.

Day 7: We climb from the Tete Rousse hut to the Gouter Hut. This climb involves scrambling up a rocky ridge with spectacular views.

Day 8: Summit day! We awake early and climb glaciated slopes until reaching the summit, and gaze at the surrounding peaks in France, Italy, and Switzerland. We descend back down to the tram station and take the cog train back to Chamonix for a much needed shower and meal at one of the many fine restaurants.

Day 9: We drive to Geneva and depart for home. If climbers are continuing to the Matterhorn we travel by train today to Zermatt and check into our hotel.

Day 10: After a leisurely morning we head up to Schwartze and check into our hotel for the evening. We discuss our climbing strategy and have an early dinner to prepare for our alpine start!

Day 11: We depart before dawn and hike to the start of the route, then ascend steep rocky slopes until we gain the summit ridge where we don crampons. The summit is spectacular, and we gaze into Italy on the other side, with a panorama of the alps before us. We descend to the Schwartze hut and spend the night.

Day 12: Extra day in case of bad weather.

Day 13: We descend from Schwartze to Zermatt and have a celebration dinner and recount the summit climb the day before.

Day 14: Depart Zermatt for Geneva, then fly home that afternoon.

Mont Blanc: $6,150
Deposit: $2,500

2020 Departures:
July 12-20
August 16-24

Mont Blanc and Matterhorn: $11,350

2020 Departures:
July 12-25
August 16-29

Costs Include:
‌• All tram, lift and hotel fees.
• All group climbing gear such as ropes, snow pickets, ice screws, etc.
• All fees for four nights at French and Swiss Huts
• Three nights of lodging in Chamonix hotel.
• Welcome dinner.
• Breakfast and Dinner in the huts
• All transportation once trip has started
• Six Trams/lifts, and train fees
• Park fees, trekking permits and all tour fees
• IFMGA certified mountain guide fees

Costs Do Not Include:
• Bank or wire transfer fees, if applicable
• Meals not listed above (Meals in Chamonix)
• Lunches during the climb
• International airfare USA – Geneva – USA
• Shuttle from Geneva to Chamonix
• Personal gear (see gear list)
• All personal snack/lunch food
• Alcoholic beverages and bottled drinks (bottled water)
• Any extra nights lodging in Chamonix beyond itinerary
• All expenses incurred in the event of early departure (evacuation fees, transport, extra hotel nights, etc.)
• Excess baggage charges and airport taxes.
• Charges incurred as a result of delays beyond the control of Madison Mountaineering

Cancellation/Refund Policy
• There are no refunds for the deposit or balance payments for this expedition. This includes but is not limited to, expeditions that conclude without a summit or progress towards a summit for participants due to route conditions, weather, insufficient manpower, or any other factor outside the control of Madison Mountaineering. Expedition leader has the final say on the expedition conclusion and will make all best efforts within our margin of safety.
• Participants that choose to leave an active expedition for any reason are not entitled to any refunds
• Madison Mountaineering, LLC highly recommends trip cancellation insurance for all expeditions
• Due to the nature and heavy costs of government and operator permits, Madison Mountaineering must adhere to a stringent refund policy
• Deposit due with registration materials
• All balances are due 120 days prior to departure date unless otherwise specified
• Participants whose balances are not received by the 120-day deadline as stated above, risk forfeiture of their funds and their place on the expedition

Note: Madison Mountaineering, LLC reserves the right to waive any fees. As we offer personalized service, we will attempt to accommodate changes and cancellations when necessary, waiving certain fees when feasible. Deposits paid by participants acknowledge the above cancellation terms.

• Ice Axe: A general mountaineering ice axe no longer than 65 cm.
• Crampons: General mountaineering crampons
• Trekking Poles: Adjustable poles
• Climbing harness: An alpine climbing harness
• Carabineers: 2 locking and 2 non locking
• Belay / Rappel device: For rappelling or belaying climbers
• Helmet: Must fit over a thick hat
• Mountaineering Boots: Either double plastic or insulated synthetic boots.
• Socks: 3 pair thick mountaineering socks and 3 pair liner socks
• Short Underwear: 1-2 pair of synthetic short underwear
• Long Underwear: 1-2 pair lightweight long underwear pants and shirts. 1 pair of heavy expedition weight long underwear.
• Soft Shell Jacket: A hooded jacket is best.
• Soft Shell pants: With side accessory pockets.
• Insulated Jacket: PrimaLoft or Down with hood.
• Hard Shell Jacket: To be worn in windy or wet conditions.
• Hard Shell Pants: To be worn in wet conditions, these pants should have full side zippers.
• Warm Hat: A warm fleece or wool hat.
• Balaclava: to cover your face and neck on windy days.
• Sun hat: A baseball style sun cap.
• Buff: To wear around your neck & face to block the wind, UV rays, dust.
• Glacier Glasses: wrap around style sunglasses with dark lenses
• Goggles: With dark lenses.
• Soft Shell Gloves: 1 pair
• Shell gloves with insulated liner: 1 pair
• Expedition Backpack: A 40-55 liter internal frame back pack.
• Headlamp: Bring a spare set of batteries
• Sunscreen: SPF 50 or stronger
• Lip screen: SPF 30 or stronger
• Water bottles: 2 bottles with 1 liter capacity each
• Knife: Optional
• Toiletry Bag: Toothpaste, Toothbrush, baby wipes, etc.
• Camera: lightweight with extra batteries
• Travel Clothes: For days in Chamonix or Zermatt.
• Small duffel bag: to store items in the hotel
• Small Personal First Aid Kit: Athletic tape, band aids, Ibuprofen, Moleskin, blister care products, personal medications, cough drops.

Madison Mountaineering is recognized for well thought out strategy in high altitude climbing expeditions, as well as high-quality service throughout. Because we have two decades of experience in the planning and coordination of mountaineering expeditions, our reputation is excellent. We strive to make each expedition the best possible experience for our climbers and focus on our 3 primary goals of success in reaching the summit, returning safely, and having fun!

Our guides are some of the best and most experienced in the industry, having a strong grasp of technical climbing, expedition, and high altitude experience, along with strong interpersonal skills. Our teams are small and equipped with the best support available to ensure the highest chance of success. We are renowned for our comfortable base camps, high-quality food, first-rate communications, and medical support services, all of which are overseen by a professional member of our team.

Most of our climbers have either climbed with us before, been referred by a friend who has climbed with us, or met one of our teams while attempting another peak and decided to join us for their next expedition. We work hard to facilitate safe, successful, and enjoyable expeditions for all of our climbers. Our track record and past climber testimonials prove we are not only experts in our field, but we also love what we do!

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The Ecuador Volcanoes offer fantastic climbing on high altitude glaciated peaks with wonderful accommodations along the way. The volcanoes are located just outside Quito, the capital city, making for short travel days in between climbs. Our program offers climbs on two major peaks in Ecuador: Cayambe (18,996’) and Chimborazo (20,564’), both with heavily glaciated summits. During the program, we have ample time for technical skills review. With Quito as our base, we ascend these Ecuadorian giants and rest between climbs in Hacienda style lodges that provide an outstanding relaxation and dining experience. Our camps on these volcanoes are either European style mountain huts or tent camps. The combination of these beautiful climbs with first-rate lodging throughout make this program very enjoyable!

”We had a fantastic time! Thanks for all the hard work. From the climbing to the sightseeing it was top notch. Estalin was a Superb Guide! Not only was he a skillful climbing guide he was a blast to hang out with. He also took the time to share his mountaineering expertise with us. I learned a lot about history and culture as well. The food was fantastic. He always went out of his way to show us a great time. Thanks again.”
Luke Palmatier, 2015 Ecuador Climber

”It was an amazing time start to finish. Both Jose Luis and Andrew were both helpful and fun to be around. The quality was first class with everything. It was a 10 out of 10.”
Jeff Glasbrenner, 2016 Ecuador Climber

We regularly organize custom programs for private groups. We are happy to accommodate your program dates, as well as other specific requests related to the itinerary, amenities, and group size. Please contact us if you would like to know more about custom programs.

Day 1: Arrive Quito (2850m/9,350ft). Airport pick up and transfer to Hotel Mercure. Overnight at Hotel Mercure. We will conduct a brief orientation and equipment check.

Day 2: Today we “acclimatize” around Quito by touring the many beautiful colonial structures and historic district, stopping to enjoy lunch in one of the many outdoor cafes.

Day 3: Acclimatization hike on Pasochoa (4225m/13,860ft). This is a beautiful day hike and we have lunch along the way. We return to our hotel for the evening.

Day 4: Today we depart the hotel with our gear and hike up Pichincha (4785m/15,700ft). After the day hike, we drive to Hacienda Pinsaquí, located close to the town of Otavalo. Overnight at Hacienda Pinsaquí.

Day 5: We climb the small peak of Imbabura (4630m/15,190ft) and return to Hacienda Pinsaquí for the night.

Day 6: Visit the town of Otavalo then continue to the Yanacocha Lodge (3652m/11,980ft). Overnight at the hut.

Day 7: Glacier skills on Cayambe. Overnight at the Cayambe hut (4648m/15,250ft).

Day 8: Cayambe climb (5789m/18,993ft). Summit climb, then return to Yanacocha Lodge.

Day 9: Today we travel from Yanacocha Lodge to the Estrella del Chimborazo lodge (4000m/13,125ft). We organize our gear and prepare for the next day’s climb to our high camp.

Day 10: We depart the lodge after breakfast and hike to the Stubel Camp (4938m/16,200ft) on Chimborazo.

Day 11: Chimborazo climb (6310m/20,702ft). Summit day! We begin our climb before dawn, and reach the summit of Chimborazo shortly after sunrise. The summit of Chimborazo is the closest point to the sun, and we savor this spectacular mountain top view. We descend and drive back to our hotel in Quito for a celebration dinner.

Day 12: Transfer to the airport and flight back home.

Cayambe & Chimborazo Expeditions
$3,800
Deposit: $1,800

Summer Season:
June 1-12
June 13-24
July 4-15
July 25- August 6

Winter Season:
October 31-November 11
November 18-November 29
December 12-December 23
January 2-January 13
January 24-February 4
February 13-February 24
February 20 – March 3

Costs Include:
• Airport Pick up
• 3 star hotels in Quito
• Park entrance fees
• Climbing permit fees
• Hut fees
• Hacienda lodges
• All meals while climbing
• Guide service (Ecuadorian or American)

Costs Do Not Include:
• Airfare
• Personal Items
• Meals in Quito
• Option to upgrade to single room
• Fees for early departure
• Trip cancellation insurance
• Wire transfer fee
• Airport taxes

Cancellation/Refund Policy
• There are no refunds for the deposit or balance payments for this expedition. This includes but is not limited to, expeditions that conclude without a summit or progress towards a summit for participants due to route conditions, weather, insufficient manpower, or any other factor outside the control of Madison Mountaineering. Expedition leader has the final say on the expedition conclusion and will make all best efforts within our margin of safety.
• Participants that choose to leave an active expedition for any reason are not entitled to any refunds
• Madison Mountaineering, LLC highly recommends trip cancellation insurance for all expeditions
• Due to the nature and heavy costs of government and operator permits, Madison Mountaineering must adhere to a stringent refund policy
• Deposit due with registration materials
• All balances are due 120 days prior to departure date unless otherwise specified
• Participants whose balances are not received by the 120-day deadline as stated above, risk forfeiture of their funds and their place on the expedition

Note: Madison Mountaineering, LLC reserves the right to waive any fees. As we offer personalized service, we will attempt to accommodate changes and cancellations when necessary, waiving certain fees when feasible. Deposits paid by participants acknowledge the above cancellation terms.

Ice Axe: A general mountaineering ice axe no longer than 60-65 cm.
Crampons: General mountaineering crampons
Trekking Poles: Adjustable poles for the trek to base camp
Climbing harness: An alpine climbing harness
Carabineers: 4 locking and 2 non locking
Belay / Rappel device: For rappelling or belaying climbers
Helmet: Must fit over a thick hat
Light hiking boots or trekking shoes: For hiking days, these can be worn in the lodges or mountain huts.
Mountaineering Boots: Either double plastic or insulated synthetic boots.
Socks: Minimum 3 pair thick mountaineering socks and 3 pair liner socks
Short Underwear: 1-2 pair of synthetic short underwear
Long Underwear: 1-2 pair lightweight long underwear pants and shirts. 1 pair of heavy expedition weight long underwear.
Soft Shell Jacket: A hooded jacket
Soft Shell pants: For trekking and climbing
Insulated Jacket: PrimaLoft or Down
Expedition Down Parka: A hooded down jacket with 800 minimum down fill.
Insulated Pants: PrimaLoft or Down, these should have full side zippers.
Hard Shell Jacket: To be worn in wet conditions
Hard Shell Pants: To be worn in wet conditions, these pants should have full side zippers.
Headlamp: Bring extra batteries
Warm Hat: A warm fleece or wool hat.
Balaclava: to cover your face and neck on windy days.
Sun hat: A baseball style sun camp.
Buff: To wear around your neck & face to block the wind, UV rays, dust.
Glacier Glasses: wrap around style sunglasses with dark lenses
Goggles: With dark lenses.
Soft Shell Gloves: 1 pair
Shell gloves with insulated liner: 1 pair
Expedition overmitts: With insulated removable liners
Gaiters: Full length
Expedition Backpack: A 50-65 liter internal frame back pack.
Sleeping Bag: Rated to at least -20 °F. Down is preferable over synthetic.
Compression stuff sacks: for reducing volume for your sleeping bag and down jacket.
Self Inflating pad: A full length air mattress
Closed Cell foam pad: Full length is best
Cup: 16oz. minimum
Bowl: ½ liter minimum capacity
Spoon: Plastic (lexan)
Sunscreen: 2 tubes, SPF 40 or stronger
Lip screen: 2 sticks, SPF 30 or stronger
Water bottles: 2 bottles with 1 liter capacity each
Water Purification System: Tablets or Steripen
Water Bottle Parkas: To keep your water from freezing
Pee Bottle: 1+ liter capacity
Pee Funnel: For Women
Knife: Optional
Toiletry Bag: Toothpaste, Toothbrush, baby wipes, etc.
Hand Sanitizer: 2 small bottles
Hand warmers / Toe warmers: 3 sets of each
Trash Compactor bags (4): To line stuff sacks and separate gear
Camera: lightweight with extra batteries
Travel Clothes: For days in Quito.
Large Duffel Bag with lock: for transporting all personal gear to the mountains.
Small duffel bag: to store items in the hotel
Small Personal First Aid Kit: Athletic tape, band aids, Ibuprofen, Moleskin, blister care products, personal medications, cough drops.

Medications:
• Acetazolamide (Diamox) for altitude illness
• Antibiotics such as Ciprofloxin or Azithromycin for gastro intestinal or respiratory illness
• Ibuprofen for muscle soreness
• Pepto Bismol for loose stool
• Excedrin for headaches
• Anti nausea medications.

Climbing Snacks:
• Electrolyte Replacement Drink Mix: Bring a supply for 1 week.
• Energy Gel: Single serving gel packs such as GU, Clifshot, Powergel, etc.)
• Energy Bars: Power bar, Cliff bar, etc.
• Candy Bars: Snickers, Mars, Twix, Milkey Way, etc.
• Hard Candy: 1 cup
• Crackers: 1 box

Madison Mountaineering is recognized for well thought out strategy in high altitude climbing expeditions, as well as high-quality service throughout. Because we have two decades of experience in the planning and coordination of mountaineering expeditions, our reputation is excellent. We strive to make each expedition the best possible experience for our climbers and focus on our 3 primary goals of success in reaching the summit, returning safely, and having fun!

Our guides are some of the best and most experienced in the industry, having a strong grasp of technical climbing, expedition, and high altitude experience, along with strong interpersonal skills. Our teams are small and equipped with the best support available to ensure the highest chance of success. We are renowned for our comfortable base camps, high-quality food, first-rate communications, and medical support services, all of which are overseen by a professional member of our team.

Most of our climbers have either climbed with us before, been referred by a friend who has climbed with us, or met one of our teams while attempting another peak and decided to join us for their next expedition. We work hard to facilitate safe, successful, and enjoyable expeditions for all of our climbers. Our track record and past climber testimonials prove we are not only experts in our field, but we also love what we do!

More Climbs

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Mount Everest, known by the Nepalese / Sherpas as Sagarmatha and by the Tibetans as Chomolungma, is the world’s highest peak at 8850m (29,035 ft) and is the border between Nepal and Tibet. Since the 1920s, many of the world’s top climbers have attempted to scale Mount Everest, and May 29, 1953, marked the first successful ascent by Tenzing Norgay (Nepal) and Sir Edmund Hillary (New Zealand). Madison Mountaineering offers the premier climbing experience on Mount Everest in regards to summit success, safety, and overall experience. Our teams work together, have fun, and form lasting bonds of friendship over the course of the expedition. Our camaraderie, as well as the very high level of support, sets us apart from the other teams, we often come to the aid of other climbers in distress. We achieve this with small teams, top guides & sherpas, a focus on safety and good decision making, an overall goal of summit success and making the ’return trip,’ and enjoying the experience of Everest throughout the expedition.

Our Expedition Leader:

As Expedition Leader and Guide for 12 years running on Mount Everest, Garrett Madison has overseen all aspects for his teams related to planning, organization, and climbing on Mount Everest. As one of the best known “Expedition Leaders” on Mount Everest with the highest success and safety record in recent years, Garrett has personally accompanied over 60 climbers (clients) up Mount Everest to the summit since 2009 (as well as many co guides and climbing Sherpas), more than any other guide or Expedition Leader. Garrett is known for ‘climber care,’ making the well being of his clients his number one priority, this is perhaps the most important differentiating factor in our expeditions compared to the others on Mount Everest. Garrett has recently climbed Mount Lhotse (4th highest mountain) three times, in guiding climbers on the “peak to peak” combination where members climb Mount Lhotse the day after reaching the top of Mount Everest. Garrett has been part of many “firsts” on Everest, such as the 2016 first ascent by an American with a prosthetic leg; however, his proudest accomplishment is a 100% safety record for clients under his watch while climbing the peak.

Our Everest Guides:

After his 13th expedition to Mount Everest (the last ten years as ‘Expedition Leader’), Garrett Madison has reached the top 10 times. Garrett has personally guided more climbers (60+) over the last ten years than any other mountain guide or Expedition Leader. Our Everest guide team includes very experienced mountain guides with multiple Everest summits such as Brent Bishop, Conan Bliss, Billy Nugent, Stuart Robertson, Geoff Schellens, Fred Alldredge, Kenton Cool, and Sid Pattison, some of the most experienced and capable Everest guides on the mountain. This vast amount of organizational and logistical expertise, combined with a commitment to provide the best possible services to ensure safety and success, make Madison Mountaineering the premier boutique guiding company on Mount Everest. Climbers will have an unparalleled opportunity for safely climbing to the summit and returning to base camp, as well as climbing Lhotse if desired. Enjoying the experience is a high priority, and our climbers can attest to having a great time throughout! (Please contact us for past Everest climber testimonials)

Our teams are different than the large scale operations where climbers are locked into specific dates for rotations and summit attempts and maybe one of many people sitting down to eat in the dining tent, dealing with illness spreading throughout the group. Often these sprawling groups have only a leader who remains in base camp and coaches members over the radio, with our team your leader climbs with you to the summit and back, often making the crucial ‘mission critical’ decisions on the spot, this is a big part of our high level of success and safety. By keeping our team small yet highly supported, we don’t compromise our standards in providing the best strategy, flexibility, and resources needed to succeed in the dynamic environment that is Everest. The equation for success and safety involves variables that can and often rapidly change such as: mountain weather (wind speed, precipitation, temperature), climber acclimatization and health, climbing route (the route often varies daily through the Khumbu Icefall), other climbers and teams (climbers needing assistance, evacuation, as well as periodic overcrowding on the route).

We can quickly adjust to changing conditions better than any other team. We have the best communication systems available to monitor the weather (along with a few dedicated meteorologists), to communicate with other teams on the mountain to collaborate on the route, weather, rescues, and summit schedule. We have an experienced base camp manager, a menu plan developed by a certified nutritionist, and a helicopter available that can evacuate an injured or ill climber if necessary from as high as Camp 3. Our Sherpas are among the finest and most respected on the mountain, as evidenced by our Sherpas, who took part in fixing the ropes to the summit on May 15th, 2017, on May 14, 2018, and May 15th, 2019. Our team oversaw the ’rope fixing’ project on Mount Everest for the last two years. We are a team that works together to accomplish our shared goals of safety, success, and having fun. If you would like to know more, we invite you to contact us!

Mount Everest is a harsh environment. We take pride in creating a team that can not only reach the top but can also get down safely, and survive. We are one of the few teams that have the ability to support climbers in distress who are high on Everest, commonly called the ‘death zone’ which is above 8000 meters. In both 2016 and 2017, our team provided medical support at Camp 4, the South Col, and contributed to the ultimate survival of other climbers.

Testimonials from our 2019 Everest Climbers:

Thank you for a journey of a lifetime Garrett. I had an absolute blast and I can finally say I climbed with Madison Mountaineering. THE ONLY WAY TO GO 🙂

— Mona S

Every step of the way with you was remarkable. I couldn’t have enjoyed the experience more. You run a wonderful business with a world class team. It is only when you live it every day, and see the carnage that the alternatives can bring, that you fully appreciate how well we were all treated!

— Michael L

You run a first rate operation. There may be some (a few perhaps) that are as good in terms of staffing and experience, but there are none that are better and most are clearly inferior.

— Art M

Madison Mountaineering Everest 2018 Recap, “The Leader” on Everest

I am very pleased to report that our team had 100% success and safety with all climbers who embarked on the summit attempt from Everest base camp reaching the top between May 14 and May 18. Our small private teams (Kenton Cool’s group with Ben Fogel & Mark Fisher, the team of Ant Middleton & Ed Wardle) along and our main team of climbers all succeeded in the endeavor of climbing to the top of Everest and descending safely. We also had climbers complete the Everest and Lhotse combination climb, going from the summit of Mount Everest to the summit of Mount Lhotse the next day, altogether 42 climbers from our group (climbers and Sherpas) reached the summit of Mount Everest. As in previous Everest seasons, there were no injuries or accidents among our climbing team. We were supported by our incredible team of Sherpas who are an integral part of our success. Once again, as in the past 2017, season our team ”led the way” by fixing the lines to the summit of Mount Everest, thereby opening the route for all teams to climb Mount Everest.

Most Successful Everest Season Ever?

This season on Mount Everest is likely the most successful ever, given the number of collective summits versus permits issued and taking into account overall accidents / fatalities. Two reasons can explain this very high level of success, the fact that our rope fixing team opened the route earlier than in previous Everest seasons and because a period of very good weather then manifest which allowed climbers to take advantage of the open route and good mountain conditions to climb. Because our rope fixing project was on time and well communicated with teams in Everest base camp, climbers were able to plan and prepare for summit attempts in advance of the good weather that materialized May 13th onward. Our rope fixing team had to work hard, despite unfavorable conditions in April and early May such as a very icy Lhotse Face combined with high winds, our team was still able to fix the ropes to the summit of Mount Everest by May 13th, with double lines in places to ease congestion on the Lhotse Face up to Camp 3, the Yellow Band, and on the Geneva Spur. The rope used was 10.5 mm static rope, a very strong and durable rope, the anchors (primarily Black Diamond 22 cm ice screws) were placed appropriately to support many climbers.

The small number of accidents / fatalities this season were unfortunate, but on average less than what we normally see on Everest. Generally there are some accidents / fatalities related to climbers getting stuck up high on Everest in bad weather or on a very crowded summit day and then running out of oxygen (I was witness to this in 2012 when 4 climbers perished up high on Everest because the rope fixing was delayed to May 18th and few good weather days were available). Because the weather window was favorable, climbers were able to spread out summit attempts over a week long period, so that no single day was problematic from a congestion standpoint. Additionally, because our rope fixing project was well planned and executed on schedule, climbers were able to take advantage of the good weather window by making plans in advance of the arrival of this stable weather period.

Looking Forward

The rope fixing project this year was coordinated by my team, Adventure Consultants and our local operator in Nepal, Himalayan Guides. Initially there was some contention from other teams that this was a good idea, as traditionally the rope fixing project was managed by the ‘old guard’ on Everest and the work shared by many teams. However, the challenge of managing members from many teams often led to some confusion regarding work days, and lost efficiency when Sherpas from different teams worked together for the first time. Our approach, keeping the project containted within essentially one team, provided us the opportunity to utilitze our most capable high altitude Sherpas to complete this difficult project in an efficient and safe manner. Myself and Guy Cotter (CEO of Adventure Consultants) both climbed Mount Everest & Mount Lhotse this season, so we were able to actually be on the mountain to oversee and inspect various aspects of the rope fixing project ourselves in real-time rather than manage from Everest base camp as was traditionally the case by the teams in charge. I believe this “hands on” approach by the leadership influenced the rope fixing project in a very positive manner, evident by the outcome. I hope this example, where the end result is safer and more successful climbing on the world’s highest mountain, can be carried forward to future seasons on Mount Everest!
— Garrett Madison

Testimonials from our 2018 Everest Climbers:

Garrett…Thank you again for the adventure of a lifetime. What a team of guides and sherpas you have built! I can’t imagine spending 7 weeks at base camp or higher without the MM approach to acclimatization, rest, nutrition, and team work. I could not have succeeded without your support and attention. Keep doing what you love…..it shows in your results.

— Dave L

Thank you so much for such an incredible climb. It felt safe and proficient the whole time because of you. Undeniably the most dialed crew on the mountain….Excited to climb with you in the future!

— Matt K

Madison Mountaineering is the best run operation on the mountain

— Kenton Cool, Britain’s foremost Everest climber and guide (13 summits and counting)

2017: Highest Success & Safety Three Years Running:

Our 2017 Mount Everest Expedition was again a fantastic success, with 100% of our 8 clients who reached Camp 2 making the summit of Everest on May 21st and May 23rd, along with 4 American guides, and 15 Sherpas!! We also were the only company that had several of our climbers complete the Everest & Lhotse “peak to peak” combination, where they climbed Mount Lhotse (4th highest mountain) the day after reaching the summit of Mount Everest. This amazing and unmatched level of success among all the teams on Mount Everest is secondary to our number one priority, that all members (clients, guides, & Sherpas) made it safely off the peak.

Rope Fixing to the Summit:

Our team took the lead in partnership with the British – Nepal Gurkha team in fixing the ropes to the summit of Mount Everest on May 15th, 2017. This was not part of our original plan, as the rope-fixing project was taken upon by several other teams at the start of the season. Unfortunately, after several mishaps, the lead team had to abandon the rope-fixing project along with their partners. Without any clear consensus on how or when the lines would be put in to the summit, our team stepped up to finish the job. This “mission critical” project was necessary so that teams could begin their summit attempts on Mount Everest, with teams reaching the summit the following day on May 16th and continuing to reach the summit as late as May 28th. We are glad that our team had the capability and prowess to organize and execute such an important task, when no other teams on the mountain could summon such an effort, at such a critical stage in the climbing season.

Rescues:

Our team was at the South Col when several climbers who had pushed themselves very hard on summit day returned and needed critical medical attention. Our guides came to assist with medicine (dexamethasone, etc) and supplemental oxygen. However, what stands out the most is that one of our veteran guides, Brent Bishop, along with our Sherpas, rescued the Slovak Climber from the Balcony (27,500’), lowering him all the way down to the South Col high camp. We gave oxygen for him to use on the descent. This heroic effort by Brent and our Sherpas involved abandoning their own summit attempt, just hours away from the top, and spending the day giving their all in an effort to save a life.

We feel very fortunate that our expedition was a stunning success. We attribute this to our careful team selection and training, our top notch and very experienced Everest guides and leadership, and of course our incredible Sherpa team who we invest heavily in year after year.

2016 Expedition Recap:

100% of our 2016 Everest Climbers reached the summit, of those that embarked on the summit attempt a total of 27 climbers (clients, guides and sherpas) reached the top of the world on May 19th, 2016!!

Please contact us to learn about our finely tuned acclimatization and climbing strategy as it relates to our Mount Everest Expedition. Our climbing itinerary has been refined over 11 Mount Everest expeditions, in both 2018 and 2017 resulting in 100% of the climbers reaching the summit, who embarked on the summit attempt after reaching Camp 2.

Everest Itinerary:

April 2: Meet in KTM
April 3: City tour in KTM
April 4: Fly to Lukla and begin the trek to base camp (stay in Phakding)
April 5: Trek to Namche
April 6-7: Rest in Namche, Everest View Point, etc.
April 8: Trek to Debuche
April 9: Trek to Pangboche
April 10: Trek to Dingboche
April 11: Rest in Dingboche
April 12: Trek to Lobuche
April 13: Rest in Lobuche
April 14: Trek to base camp
April 15-20: Acclimatize and review mountaineering technique (ladder practice, fixed lines, etc) in base camp, Puja ceremony.
April 21: Climb to Camp 1
April 22: Rest in Camp 1
April 23: Climb to Camp 2
April 24: Rest in Camp 2
April 25: Descend to base camp
April 26-30: Rest in base camp
May 1: Climb to Camp 2
May 2: Rest in Camp 2
May 3: Rest in Camp 2 (hike up west shoulder)
May 4: Touch Camp 3, sleep in Camp 2
May 5: Descend to base camp
May 6-13: Descend and rest in Debuche or Namche, evaluate weather conditions for summit rotation
May 14: Climb to Camp 2
May 15: Rest in Camp 2
May 16: Climb to Camp 3 (use O2)
May 17: Climb to Camp 4 (use O2)
May 18: Rest in Camp 4 (use O2)
May 19: Climb to Summit! (use O2) and return to Camp 4.
May 20: Climb to Summit of Lhotse, return to Camp 2.
May 21: Descent to base camp.
May 22-24: Trek to Lukla
May 25: Arrive Kathmandu
May 26: Depart for home
May 27-31: Extra days in case of bad weather, etc. (contingency)

*Schedule subject to change based on route conditions, weather conditions, and climber health.

Standard Mount Everest Program — SPRING 2020
April 2 – May 31, 2020
Cost: US$ 69,500
Deposit: US$ 25,000

Mount Everest and Lhotse Combination Climb
April 2 – May 31, 2020
Cost: US$ 84,500

Costs Include:
• Airport pick up in Kathmandu
• 3 night accommodations in Kathmandu at Yak & Yeti Hotel, 2 nights before and 1 night after the expedition
• Welcome dinner in Kathmandu
• Lodging for all nights during the trek to and from base camp
• Tents during the climb
• All food during the trek and climb. We provide high-quality food from the USA and Nepal. If you have specific dietary requirements, please give us specific details and we will accommodate your needs!
• All transportation in Nepal, including round-trip flights from Kathmandu to Lukla & Lukla to Kathmandu. Helicopter out of base camp after the expedition is available as an optional upgrade
• All group equipment needed to climb the mountain: cooking gear, fuel, stoves, ropes, all forms of rock, ice, and snow protection, radio communications, oxygen delivery system and oxygen cylinders, medical supplies, etc.
• Internet access wifi is available to all climbers on our team at base camp ($50/gigabyte). Sat phone is available at $3 per minute
• Sherpa, porters, liaison officer, camp staff and American mountain guides
• All administration fees owed to Nepal, including climbing permits

Costs Do Not Include:
• $25 Wire Transfer Fee (If Applicable)
• International round-trip airfare (Home Country-Nepal-Home Country)
• Meals in Kathmandu and hotels after the climb (once the climber has left the mountain)
• Personal gear, clothing and sleeping equipment (see gear list)
• Trip cancellation insurance.
• Comprehensive medical exam: A physician signed Medical Release Form is required
• Alcoholic beverages
• Bottled or canned beverages
• Specialty coffee or espresso drinks
• All expenses incurred in the event of early departure (evacuation fees, transport, extra hotel nights, etc.)
• Personal Items
• Charges incurred as a result of delays beyond the control of Madison Mountaineering, LLC
• Personal communication (phone, fax, e-mail) between Nepal and home country
• Gratuity for Western guide
• $1000 per Sherpa summit bonus

Cancellation/Refund Policy
• There are no refunds for the deposit or balance payments for this expedition. This includes but is not limited to, expeditions that conclude without a summit or progress towards a summit for participants due to route conditions, weather, insufficient manpower, or any other factor outside the control of Madison Mountaineering. Expedition leader has the final say on the expedition conclusion and will make all best efforts within our margin of safety.
• Participants that choose to leave an active expedition for any reason are not entitled to any refunds
• Madison Mountaineering, LLC highly recommends trip cancellation insurance for all expeditions
• Due to the nature and heavy costs of government and operator permits, Madison Mountaineering must adhere to a stringent refund policy
• Deposit due with registration materials
• All balances are due 120 days prior to departure date unless otherwise specified
• Participants whose balances are not received by the 120-day deadline as stated above, risk forfeiture of their funds and their place on the expedition

Note: Madison Mountaineering, LLC reserves the right to waive any fees. As we offer personalized service, we will attempt to accommodate changes and cancellations when necessary, waiving certain fees when feasible. Deposits paid by participants acknowledge the above cancellation terms.

Print Gear List

Base Layers
• Synthetic Short underwear: A non cotton style underwear.
• Lightweight Long Underwear: 2-3 pair longsleve shirt and long pants
• Heavyweight long underwear: 1 pair
• Short Sleeve Synthetic Shirt: 1-2 pair

Mid Layers
• Soft Shell jacket: To be worn over other layers
• Soft Shell Pants: Very breathable and water repellent
• Lightweight Nylon Pants: 1-2 pair

Windproof/Rain Layers
• Hard Shell Jacket with hood: A waterproof and breathable shell jacket
• Hard Shell Pants: Waterproof and breathable shell pants

Insulation Layers
• Insulated Down Jacket with hood: We primarily wear this when climbing below Camp 2.
• Insulated Pants: Worn primarily when climbing below Camp 2.
• Down Suit: Feathered Friends, Sherpa, North Face, Mountain Hardwear, etc. We wear this climbing above Camp 2.

Headwear
• Warm Hat: Synthetic or wool hat (ski hat).
• Balaclava: to protect your neck and face in high winds.
• Baseball Camp or other sun hat: To shade your face / neck from the sun on a hot day.
• Bandana or Buff: To protect your neck / face from the sun.

Eyewear
• Glacier glasses: Full protection with side covers or wrap around.
• Ski goggles: To be worn on summit day in the event of high winds.

Gloves
• Lightweight synthetic liner gloves: For wearing on a hot day.
• Soft shell gloves: To wear for moderate cold / wind.
• Shell glove with insulated liner: To wear for severe cold / strong wind.
• Expedition Mitts: Large enough to fit a liner glove inside.

Footwear
• Liner socks: 3 pair
• Wool or synthetic socks: 6 pair
• Mountaineering boots: Olympus Mons, Millet, etc.
• Hiking shoes: comfortable boots or shoes for the trek to base camp.
• Camp boots: comfortable boots for wearing in camp.
• Booties: Optional, down is best.

Sleeping Equipment
• Sleeping Bag (for high camps): Rated to at least -40°F. Goose down or synthetic.
• Sleeping Bag (for base camp): rated to at least -20°F.
• Self inflating sleeping pad (1 for base camp and 1 for high camps): Full length is preferred.
• Closed cell foam pad: To be used in conjunction with the inflating pad for warmth and comfort when sleeping.
• Earplugs

Mountaineering Gear
• Expedition Backpack: 65L pack should be large enough.
• Compression stuff sacks: For reducing volume of the sleeping bag, down parka, etc., in your pack.
• Trash compactor bags: to line back pack and stuff sacks as well as for separating gear.
• Trekking Backpack: To carry on the trek to base camp. Simple and light.
• Trekking poles with snow baskets: Adjustable poles
• Ice Axe: General mountaineering tool (65cm)
• Crampons: General mountaineering crampons
• Climbing Helmet: Must be able to fit over your ski hat
• Ascender: 1 right or left hand ascender (Petzel brand is best)
• Accessory Cord: 30 feet (9m) of 6mm accessory cord
• Alpine Climbing Harness: A mountaineering harness, with adjustable leg loops. Not a rock climbing “sport” harness.
• Carabiners: 3 locking and 3 regular
• Rappel device: ATC or figure 8
• Headlamp: With 2 extra sets of new batteries

Luggage
• Duffel bags (2) with locks: To transport equipment.
• Travel Clothes: For days in Kathmandu.

Additional Food Items
• Snack food: Please bring a few days of your favorite climbing snack food such as bars, gels, nuts, beef jerky, etc. A variety of salty and sweet is good.

Other Equipment
• Cup: A plastic 16 oz. minimum cup or mug
• Bowl: A plastic bowl for eating dinner or breakfast out of
• Spoon: Plastic spoon (lexan)
• Water bottles: 2 or 3 wide mouth bottles with 1 liter capacity
• Water bottle parkas (2): fully insulated with zip opening
• Thermos: 1 liter
• Hand warmers & toe warmers: 3 sets of each. Or use Hotronic foot warmer system
• Sunscreen: SPF 50 or better
• Lipscreen: SPF 30 or better (2 sticks)
• Toiletry bag: Include toilet paper and hand sanitizer and small towel
• Pee bottle: 1 liter minimum bottle for convenience at night in the tent
• Knife or multi tool (optional)
• Small personal first aid kit: Include athletic tape, band aids, Ibuprofin, blister care, personal medications, etc.
• Medications and Prescriptions: Bring antibiotics (Azithromycin, etc.), and altitude medicine such as Diamox and dexamethasone.

Optional Electronics
• A/C plug adapters and 220V transformers
• Adventure Sports Watch (such as Garmin fēnix 6)
• GPS/Personal Satellite Communicator (such as Garmin inReach Mini)
• Peronsal power system (such as Goal Zero Nomad 28 Plus Solar Panel and Sherpa 100AC Power Bank)
• Digital entertainment: movies, tv shows, music, books loaded onto smartphone, iPad, Kindle
• Camera: bring extra batteries and memory cards

Other Optional Items
• Lightweight journal, sketchbook, pencils, pen
• U.S. cash
• Female urination device (FUD)
• Handkerchief/bandanas

Everest Express Program: US$ 75,000

2020 Depatures:
April 25 (arrive Kathmandu) – May 25, 2020

Cost includes (in addition to normal Mount Everest program):
• Rental of altitude chamber system for 1-month duration of pre-acclimatization
• Pre-acclimatization protocol and plan
• Training plan to develop appropriate fitness for the Everest climb
• Climbing strategy upon arrival in Nepal to the summit of Mount Everest and back
• Helicopter flights in Nepal, Kathmandu to Mount Everest base camp and return
• All regular logistics and services associated with the standard Mount Everest program we offer once climbers arrive in Nepal

Our 2018 Everest Express climbers both succeeded in reaching the summit of Mount Everest on May 14th, just under a month from the beginning of our Express program, proving once again that the program works! With the aid of the Hypoxico Tent System as well as helicopters, the Everest Express program allows climbers to achieve the summit in less than one month.

History was made in 2013 when two climbers joined Garrett halfway through the Mount Everest season. These men had each pre acclimatized at homes in a chamber over their beds for one month and then flew directly to the mountain via helicopter where they integrated with the regular climbing team. From that point on (April 26th) they climbed on schedule with the regular team that Garrett led, and summited with the team on May 18th. They experienced no negative effects, and performed well overall. They were door to door in less than a month, and this marked the first and only time that an expedited schedule of this length has been accomplished for guided climbers on a commercial Mount Everest expedition.

The Everest Express climb was a success, and proves that with the proper training, technology, and coaching, climbers can elect to forgo the normal two months required to climb Mount Everest. For those with commitments to family and business that would prohibit a two month departure, the Everest Express allows for a successful climbing experience on Mount Everest in a one month or less time frame. Garrett Madison is currently the only guide to have organized and executed successfully a program of this nature in less than one month.

Itinerary:
Arrival
  Day 01:  Arrive in Kathmandu. We will pick you up at the airport and take you to the Yak & Yeti hotel. This is historically the ‘climbers hotel’ where many expeditions have stayed over the years.
  Day 02:  Kathmandu to Dingboche. We fly via helicopter from Kathmandu in to the Khumbu Valley and spend the evening at the village of Dingboche (4350m / 14,271ft).
Trek and Climb
  Day 03:  Trek to Lobuche (4940m / 16,207ft)
  Day 04:  Trek in Gorak Shep (5170m / 16,962ft)
  Day 05:  Trek to base camp (5364m / 16,700ft)
  Days 06-08:  Rest in base camp
  Day 09:  Climb to Camp 2 (6450m / 21,300ft)
  Day 10:  Rest in Camp 2 (hike up West Shoulder)
  Day 11:  Climb to Camp 3 (7200m / 23,760ft), return to Camp 2 to sleep
  Day 12:  Descend to base camp
  Days 13-18:  Descend and rest in Debuche or Namche, evaluate weather conditions for summit rotation
  Day 19:  Begin summit push. Climb to Camp 2
  Day 20:  Rest in Camp 2
  Day 21:  Climb to Camp 3 (use O2)
  Day 22:  Climb to Camp 4 (7900m / 26,000ft) (use O2)
  Day 23:  Rest in Camp 4 (use O2)
  Day 24:  Climb to Summit! (use O2) and return to Camp 4
  Day 25:  Descend to Camp 2
  Day 26:  Descend to base camp
Departure
  Day 27:  Helicopter from Everest base camp to Kathmandu
  Day 28:  Depart Kathmandu for home
  Days 29-34:  Extra days in case of bad weather, etc. (contingency)

Building on our 2019 expirence, we will be organizing an Autumn Mount Everest expedition for 2020. Climbers looking for an alternative to our spring Everest expedition will find that in the autumn season there are generally no other teams on the mountain. The conditions are typically more winter-like, such as increased snow, colder temperatures, and a short weather window. We will be fixing ropes as we have done last year on Everest, K2, and other high altitude peaks in the Himalayas. In 2007, Mount Everest was last climbed successfully in the autumn season. Please contact us for details!

Dates and Costs for Standard Mount Everest Program — AUTUMN
August 17 – October 2, 2020
Cost: US$ 69,500
Deposit: US$ 25,000

Expedition costs include:
•  Airport pick up in Kathmandu
•  3-night accommodations in Kathmandu at Yak & Yeti Hotel, 2 nights before and 1 night after the expedition
•  Welcome dinner in Kathmandu
•  Lodging for all nights during the trek to and from base camp
•  Tents during the climb
•  All food during the trek and climb. We provide high-quality food from the USA and Nepal. If you have specific dietary requirements, please give us specific details and we will accommodate your needs
•  All transportation in Nepal, including round-trip flights from Kathmandu to Lukla & Lukla to Kathmandu. Helicopter out of base camp after the expedition is available as an optional upgrade
•  All group equipment needed to climb the mountain: cooking gear, fuel, stoves, ropes, all forms of rock, ice, and snow protection, radio communications, oxygen delivery system and oxygen cylinders, medical supplies, etc.
•  Internet access wifi is available to all climbers on our team at base camp ($50/gigabyte). Sat phone is available at $3 per minute. *subject to availability
•  Sherpa, porters, liaison officer, camp staff and American mountain guides
•  All administration fees owed to Nepal, including climbing permits

Expedition costs do not include:
•  Bank transfer fees (if applicable)
•  International round-trip airfare (Home Country-Nepal-Home Country)
•  Meals in Kathmandu and hotels after the climb (once the climber has left the mountain)
•  Personal gear, clothing and sleeping equipment (see gear list)
•  Trip cancellation insurance
•  Comprehensive medical exam: A physician signed Medical Release Form is required
•  Alcoholic beverages and bottled drinks
•  All expenses incurred in the event of early departure (evacuation fees, transport, extra hotel nights, etc.)
•  Personal Items
•  Charges incurred as a result of delays beyond the control of Madison Mountaineering, LLC
•  Personal communication (phone, fax, e-mail) between Nepal and home country
•  Gratuity for Western guides
•  $1000 per Sherpa summit bonus

Nepal Cancellation/Refund Policy
•  Madison Mountaineering, LLC highly recommends trip cancellation insurance for all expeditions. Due to the nature and heavy costs of government and operator permits, Madison Mountaineering must adhere to a stringent refund policy
•  Deposit due with registration materials
•  All balances are due 120 days prior to departure date unless otherwise specified
•  Participants whose balances are not received by the 120-day deadline as stated above, risk forfeiture of their funds and their place on the expedition
•  There are no refunds for the deposit or balance for this expedition

Note: Madison Mountaineering, LLC reserves the right to waive any fees. As we offer personalized service, we will attempt to accommodate changes and cancellations when necessary, waiving certain fees when feasible. Deposits paid by participants acknowledge the above cancellation terms.

Madison Mountaineering is recognized for well thought out strategy in high altitude climbing expeditions, as well as high-quality service throughout. Because we have two decades of experience in the planning and coordination of mountaineering expeditions, our reputation is excellent. We strive to make each expedition the best possible experience for our climbers and focus on our 3 primary goals of success in reaching the summit, returning safely, and having fun!

Our guides are some of the best and most experienced in the industry, having a strong grasp of technical climbing, expedition, and high altitude experience, along with strong interpersonal skills. Our teams are small and equipped with the best support available to ensure the highest chance of success. We are renowned for our comfortable base camps, high-quality food, first-rate communications, and medical support services, all of which are overseen by a professional member of our team.

Most of our climbers have either climbed with us before, been referred by a friend who has climbed with us, or met one of our teams while attempting another peak and decided to join us for their next expedition. We work hard to facilitate safe, successful, and enjoyable expeditions for all of our climbers. Our track record and past climber testimonials prove we are not only experts in our field, but we also love what we do!

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