First Ascent of Unclimbed Peak in Nepal – 2019

Close up of Everest and Lhotse from Gokyo Ri
The team at the top of Gokyo Ri (17,800 ft) today, beautiful views all around! Everest is behind top left.
The village of Gokyo, next to the lake, with the Nazumba glacier, Mount Everest and Lhotse behind on left side.
In Khumjung, heading out at 7:30AM to trek to Machermo

Our 2018 ‘First Ascent of an Unclimbed Peak’ was successful!, click here to read the recap of this historical climb.

Join us in the autumn of 2019 for another historic ‘first ascent’ of a 22,000’+ unclimbed peak in Nepal. This mountain is relatively nearby Mount Everest, and is unclimbed, presenting a beautiful line to the summit. The peak is approximately 6,500m – 7000m and presents significant technical challenges such as steep snow / ice, as well as route finding, glacier travel and ridge climbing. We will begin our expedition in Kathmandu, then fly into Lukla and begin trekking to the base camp. From here we will have at least two higher camps on the mountain. We will have sherpa support and plan to use fixed ropes where appropriate, and stock our high camps with plenty of food, equipment, etc. After studying the mountain and climbing route we are very excited to test ourselves and explore this new area. We also are offering an Ama Dablam extension as an option to this program. This will surely be an incredible adventure!

If you are interested please contact our office for more details (+1-844-526-3629), or email garrett@madisonmountaineering.com. We are also offering a trek to the base camp that will accompany the climbing group for individuals such as friends or family members who would like to participate. The trekking group will spend one night in base camp and then return via a different route, visiting Everest base camp, then returning to Lukla and flying back to Kathmandu. If you are interested in the trek please contact us for details (+1-844-526-3629), or email garrett@madisonmountaineering.com. The cost will be commensurate with the Everest base camp trek.

“I was part of many mountaineering expeditions for the last 30 years, but Garrett and Madison Mountaineering with whom I was in Himalaya – Oct/Nov 2015 are unparalleled. Garrett possesses extraordinary knowledge, skills, expertise, passion for climbing, and especially – cares about every member of his team. Something like that I haven’t met so far and I would happily recommend them to anyone who wants to climb any demanding mountain in the world.” –Naim / Nick Logic, Phoenix, AZ

Climbing Team:

Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu, Transfer to Hotel

Day 02: Preparation day / city tour

Day 03: Fly Kathmandu to Lukla. Trek to Phakding

Day 04: Trek to Namche Bazar.

Day 05: Rest and Acclimatization in Namche Bazar.

Day 06: Trek to Khumjung.

Day 07: Trek to Dole.

Day 08: Trek to Macchermo

Day 09: Trek to Gokyo Lake

Day 10: Rest and Acclimatization in Gokyo

Day 11-12: Trek to base camp (5,357m)

Day 13-23: Climbing Period

Day 24: Cleaning up Base Camp

Day 25: Trek back to Gokyo

Day 26: Trek Back to Dole

Day 27: Trek back to Monjo

Day 28: Trek back to Lukla

Day 29: Fly back to Kathmandu. Transfer to Hotel.

Day 30: Depart for home country

Trekking Team:

Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu, Transfer to Hotel

Day 02: Preparation day / city tour

Day 03: Fly Kathmandu to Lukla. Trek to Phakding

Day 04: Trek to Namche Bazar.

Day 05: Rest and Acclimatization in Namche Bazar.

Day 06: Trek to Khumjung.

Day 07: Trek to Dole.

Day 08: Trek to Macchermo

Day 09: Trek to Gokyo Lake

Day 10: Rest and Acclimatization in Gokyo

Day 11-12: Trek to base camp (5,357m)

Day 13: Rest in base camp

Day 14: Trek over Cho La Pass, sleep in Gorak Shep

Day 15: Visit Everest base camp and return to Gorak Shep

Day 16: Climb Kala Pattar and descend to Perhiche

Day 17: Trek to Debuche

Day 18: Trek to Namche

Day 19: Trek to Lukla

Day 20: Fly Lukla to Kathmandu

Day 21: Rest day in Kathmandu

Day 22: Depart Kathmandu for home country

First Ascent Expedition (Approx. 6500m)
October 20 – November 18, 2019

Cost: $22,500 per person
Deposit: $9,000

Ama Dablam Extension: $8,950

Trek Dates:
October 20-November 10

Trek Cost: $4,850
Deposit: $1,500

Costs Include:
• Airport pick up in Kathmandu
• 3 night accommodations in Kathmandu at Yak & Yeti Hotel, 2 nights before and 1 night after the expedition.
• Welcome dinner in Kathmandu
• Lodging for all nights during the trek to and from base camp.
• Tents during the climb.
• All food during the trek and climb. We provide high quality food from the USA and Nepal. If you have specific dietary requirements, please give us specific details and we will accommodate your needs!
• All transportation in Nepal, including round-trip flights from Kathmandu to Lukla & Lukla to Kathmandu. Helicopter out of base camp after expedition is available as an optional upgrade.
• All group equipment needed to climb the mountain: cooking gear, fuel, stoves, ropes, all forms of rock, ice, and snow protection, radio communications, medical supplies, etc.
• Sat phone is available at $3 per minute.
• Sherpa, porters, liaison officer, camp staff and guides.
• All administration fees owed to Nepal, including climbing permits.

Costs Do Not Include:
• $25 Wire Transfer Fee (If Applicable)
• International round-trip airfare (Home Country-Nepal-Home Country).
• Meals in Kathmandu and extra hotel nights after the trek / climb (once the climber has left the mountain).
• Personal gear, clothing and sleeping equipment (see gear list).
• Trip cancellation insurance. This is highly recommended and can be purchased at Travelex Insurance. A comprehensive medical and evacuation insurance policy is required to embark on this expedition. Please use location agent #47-0224 to get your policy attached to Madison Mountaineering. The Travel Select with the Adventure Pack will include mountaineering on the policy. Click here for the Travelex Insurance Adventure Pack
• Comprehensive medical exam: A physician signed Medical Release Form is required.
• Alcoholic beverages and bottled drinks.
• All expenses incurred in the event of early departure (evacuation fees, transport, extra hotel nights, etc.)
• Personal Items
• Charges incurred as a result of delays beyond the control of Madison Mountaineering, LLC.
• Personal communication (phone, fax, e-mail) between Nepal and home country.
• Gratuity for western guide.
• Sherpa summit bonus, staff tips.

Cancellation/Refund Policy
• There are no refunds for the deposit or balance payments for this expedition. This includes but is not limited to, expeditions that conclude without a summit or progress towards a summit for participants due to route conditions, weather, insufficient manpower, or any other factor outside the control of Madison Mountaineering. Expedition leader has the final say on the expedition conclusion and will make all best efforts within our margin of safety.
• Participants that choose to leave an active expedition for any reason are not entitled to any refunds
• Madison Mountaineering, LLC highly recommends trip cancellation insurance for all expeditions
• Due to the nature and heavy costs of government and operator permits, Madison Mountaineering must adhere to a stringent refund policy
• Deposit due with registration materials
• All balances are due 120 days prior to departure date unless otherwise specified
• Participants whose balances are not received by the 120-day deadline as stated above, risk forfeiture of their funds and their place on the expedition

Note: Madison Mountaineering, LLC reserves the right to waive any fees. As we offer personalized service, we will attempt to accommodate changes and cancellations when necessary, waiving certain fees when feasible. Deposits paid by participants acknowledge the above cancellation terms.

Please contact us if you have specific questions, we are happy to discuss all details of this program.

Ice Axe: General mountaineering tool (65cm)
Crampons: General mountaineering crampons
Climbing Helmet: Must be able to fit over your ski hat
Ascender: 1 right or left hand ascender (Petzel brand is best)
Alpine Climbing Harness: A mountaineering harness, with adjustable leg loops. Not a rock climbing “sport” harness.
Carabiners: 3 locking and 3 regular
Rappel device: ATC or figure 8
Mountaineering boots: Olympus Mons, Millet, ect.
Hiking shoes: comfortable boots or shoes for the trek to base camp.
Camp boots: comfortable boots for wearing in camp.
Booties: Optional, down is best.
Wool or synthetic socks: 6 pair
Liner socks: 3 pair
Synthetic Short underwear: A non cotton style underwear.
Lightweight Long Underwear: 2-3 pair longsleve shirt and long pants
Heavyweight long underwear: 1 pair
Short Sleeve Synthetic Shirt: 1-2 pair
Lightweight Nylon Pants: 1-2 pair
Soft Shell jacket: With or without hood
Soft Shell Pants: With accessory side pockets
Hard Shell Jacket with hood: A waterproof and breathable shell jacket
Hard Shell Pants: Waterproof and breathable shell pants
Down Parka with hood: This “puffy” jacket we wear when taking breaks.
Insulated synthetic Pants: With full side zips.
Down Suit: Optional. Feathered Friends, Sherpa, North Face, Mountain Hardwear, etc.
Synthetic or wool hat (ski hat).
Balaclava: to protect your neck and face in high winds.
Baseball Cap or other sun hat: To shade your face / neck from the sun on a hot day.
Bandana or Buff: To protect your neck / face from the sun.
Glacier glasses: Full protection with side covers or wrap around.
Ski goggles: To be worn on summit day in the event of high winds.
Lightweight synthetic liner gloves: For wearing on a hot day.
Soft shell gloves: To wear for moderate cold / wind.
Shell glove with insulated liner: To wear for severe cold / strong wind.
Expedition Mitts: Large enough to fit a liner glove inside.
Expedition Backpack: 65L pack should be large enough.
Trekking Backpack: To carry on the trek to base camp. Simple and light.
Sleeping Bag (for high camps): Rated to at least -40°F. Goose down or synthetic.
Sleeping Bag (for base camp): rated to at least -20°F.
Compression stuff sacks: For reducing volume of the sleeping bag, down parka, etc., in your pack.
Self inflating sleeping pad (1 for base camp and 1 for high camps): Full length is preferred.
Closed cell foam pad: To be used in conjunction with the inflating pad for warmth and comfort when sleeping.
Trekking poles: Adjustable
Cup: A plastic 16 oz. minimum cup or mug
Bowl: A plastic bowl for eating dinner or breakfast
Spoon: Plastic spoon (lexan)
Headlamp: With 2 extra sets of new batteries
Sunscreen: SPF 50 or better
Lipscreen: SPF 30 or better (2 sticks).
Water bottles: 2 or 3 wide mouth bottles with 1 liter capacity.
Water bottle parkas (2): fully insulated with zip opening.
Thermos: 1 liter
Pee bottle: 1 liter minimum bottle for convenience at night in the tent.
Toiletry bag: Include toilet paper and hand sanitizer and small towel
Hand warmers & toe warmers: 3 sets of each. Or use Hot Tronics for foot warmer system.
Knife or multi tool (optional).
Trash compactor bags: to line back pack and stuff sacks in the event of rain or wet snow is falling on us.
Camera: Bring extra batteries and memory cards.
Travel Clothes: For days in Kathmandu.
Duffel bags (2) with locks: To transport equipment.
Base Camp Items: Kindle, Ipad, smart phone, etc.
Snack food: Please bring a few days of your favorite climbing snack food such as bars, gels, nuts, beef jerky, etc. A variety of salty and sweet is good.
Small personal first aid kit: Include athletic tape, band aids, Ibuprofin, blister care, personal medications, etc.
Medications and Prescriptions: Bring antibiotics (Azithromycin, etc.), and altitude medicine such as Diamox and dexamethasone.

Madison Mountaineering is recognized for well thought out strategy in high altitude climbing expeditions, as well as high-quality service throughout. Because we have two decades of experience in the planning and coordination of mountaineering expeditions, our reputation is excellent. We strive to make each expedition the best possible experience for our climbers and focus on our 3 primary goals of success in reaching the summit, returning safely, and having fun!

Our guides are some of the best and most experienced in the industry, having a strong grasp of technical climbing, expedition, and high altitude experience, along with strong interpersonal skills. Our teams are small and equipped with the best support available to ensure the highest chance of success. We are renowned for our comfortable base camps, high-quality food, first-rate communications, and medical support services, all of which are overseen by a professional member of our team.

Most of our climbers have either climbed with us before, been referred by a friend who has climbed with us, or met one of our teams while attempting another peak and decided to join us for their next expedition. We work hard to facilitate safe, successful, and enjoyable expeditions for all of our climbers. Our track record and past climber testimonials prove we are not only experts in our field, but we also love what we do!

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