Tag: Sherpa

Our 2017 Everest expedition is preparing to launch! This March we will lead a group of climbers and trekkers from around the world as we journey through the Khumbu Valley toward Mount Everest base camp. If you would like to join our team of trekkers and spend a night at base camp please contact us here. To higher places!

.

2017 Everest

.

2017 Everest

0

Today our climbing team patiently continued to hold at Camp 2 on Everest as our weather window approaches. After analyzing the weather forecasts from our friend Michael Fagin, it is looking very positive for a summit date between May 18-19 on Everest. We will soon make the ascent to Camp 3 and put ourselves in position for this summit window. The team is doing very well and we have been sending food and supplies up the mountain from base camp. Ankur continues to win at Scrabble from what I’ve heard. In the afternoon the team has been going on short hikes to stay active.

Here at base camp the weather has been beautiful and sunny throughout the day. The Sherpa team and I have been enjoying the TV series Game of Thrones in the evenings and are caught up on Season 6. We are all very excited as our climbers will soon continue up the mountain.

.

Shout-out to the icefall doctor’s shown here passing our climbers. This skilled Sherpa team have been fixing the ropes and ladders all season long, keeping our climbers safe.

Screen Shot 2016-05-14 at 9.09.33 PM

1

Today our climbing team enjoyed a rest day at Camp 2 on Everest and celebrated the great news that our collaborative Sherpa team successfully reached the summit of Everest today at 5:10pm our time. Lakpa Chiring Sherpa from Pangboche represented Madison Mountaineering and stood on top of the world earlier today. This was a group effort among a few other lead teams here this season and marks the first summit of the year from the south side. We are very happy that the ropes and fixed lines have been set and now our climbing team is awaiting the weather window to push for the summit. Right now the weather forecasts are calling for increased winds which could possibly push our anticipated summit date back a few days. Early tomorrow morning our Sherpa team will bring food and supplies up to Camp 2 as we wait for the weather to clear.

.

Climbing Sherpa Team

Screen Shot 2016-05-11 at 5.43.05 PM

Hope everyone had a great Halloween weekend! We said good bye to our trekking team that accompanied us all the way from our start in Kathmandu to our base camp here at Gokyo’s fifth lake. It was hard to say goodbye after the last ten days of trekking together in the Khumbu region of Nepal. They are now heading towards Cho La Pass and then onwards to Mount Everest base camp before returning to Lukla and then Kathmandu.
.
Our climbing team organized equipment at base camp today and took a walkabout around camp, scouting the glacier we will cross when we make our move towards our advanced base camp on our summit push. Our base camp is a very beautiful setting, with a nearby lake, and high peaks on all sides. A team of our Sherpa guides along with Madison Mountaineering guide Sid Pattison left today to head to advanced base camp. Tomorrow they will work on establishing the route to camp 1, at the top of the rock buttress, the first major technical section of the climb. This climbing involves around two thousand feet of steep snow and an ice arête (description and imagery here), after which we can establish our first high camp. Everyone is doing well and we look forward to our next acclimatization hike tomorrow.
.
View of glacier above camp:
BK1
.
Acclimatization hike:
BK2
.
View of Mount Everest from our base camp:
BK3
.
Burke Khang Base Camp:
BK1102
.
Team exploring near base camp:
IMG_4282
0

Trekking through the Khumbu Valley to Everest base camp is a life changing experience for many, as the spectacular mountain scenery integrated with Sherpa culture and Buddhist religion makes for truly engaging combination. We follow the same route to Base Camp as the Everest climbers and recount the historical ascents with the climbers who share our lodges along the way. Island Peak, a beautiful glaciated climb at 20,350’, is a great introduction to Himalayan climbing, as the terrain and climbing techniques resemble that of the nearby peaks of Everest and Lhotse.

Itinerary

Day 1: Depart country of residence.

Day 2: Transit day

Day 3: Arrive in Kathmandu. We will pick you up at the airport and take you to the Yak & Yeti hotel. This is historically the ‘climbers hotel’ where many expeditions have stayed over the years. We enjoy a welcome dinner with the team.

Day 4: City tour of Kathmandu, we visit the Monkey Temple, Boudhanath (one of the holiest Buddhist sites in Kathmandu), Pashupatinath, and the Swayambhunath. After the tour we have dinner, then prepare for an early morning flight to Lukla.

Day 5: We fly by fixed wing aircraft into Lukla, and begin our trek! We pass through several Sherpa villages, and enter the Sagarmatha (Everest) National Park. After crossing the river by suspension bridge, we arrive in the village of Phakding.

Day 6: We continue trekking along the Dudh Kosi River through the village of Monjo, then up the hill to Namche Bazaar. Here we will spend 2 nights in our comfortable lodge acclimatizing and enjoying the sights and cafes in Namche.

Day 7: We go for an acclimatization hike and return to our lodge to rest and prepare for the next day of trekking.

Day 8: After breakfast we head out of Namche and traverse the magnificent valley leaving towards Tengboche. Here we have spectacular views of Everest, Lhotse, and Ama Dablam for the first time. We arrive in Tengboche and tour the famous Tengboche Monastery, and then continue to Debuche where we spend the night in the Rivendell lodge.

Day 9: Depart Debuche and trek through the rhododendron forest then cross the river and hike up the short hill to Pangboche. Here we visit with Lama Geshe, the high lama of the Khumbu Valley, who many climbers visit for blessings before heading to climb peaks such as Everest, Lhotse, or Island Peak. We stay in Pangboche this evening.

Day 10: From Pangboche we gain elevation and have lunch in Shomari, near the pass there the valley divides. We then cross the river and arrive in Dingboche.

Day 11: After breakfast we trek onward past Thugla and arrive in Lobuche, the highest yak grazing ground in the Khumbu Valley. We overnight in Lobuche.

Day 12: Trek to Gorak Shep. After checking into our lodge and having lunch, we hike up nearby Kala Patthar for an amazing view of Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, and the other surrounding peaks. We return to Gorak Shep for dinner.

Day 13: We trek to Everest base camp and visit one of the climbing team camps that are in operation for the season. After a few photos of the Khumbu Icefall we return to Gorak Shep to spend the night.

Day 14: Today we descend down the valley to Dingboche where we rest and prepare for our trek to Chukung the following day.

Day 15: Arriving Chukung we organize our gear and prepare to leave the lodge setting for our camp at Island Peak base camp.

Day 16: After breakfast at the lodge we trek to our base camp, review some technical climbing skills then have an early dinner in preparation for our ‘alpine start.’

Day 17: We awake around midnight and set out in the pre dawn hours climbing up the ridgeline, then onto the glacier. Once on the glacier we climb roped up and ascent to the prominent ridgeline where we utilize fixed ropes to negotiate the final slopes to the summit. We decent to our base camp and continue onward to Chukung where we are greeted with a hearty and well-deserved meal.

Day 18: From Chukung we trek to Namche, where we enjoy the many cafes and shops of the “capital of the Khumbu.”

Day 19: Trek to Lukla and spend our final night in the mountains.

Day 20. Fly to Kathmandu check into the Yak & Yeti hotel.

Day 21: Extra day for touring Kathmandu, visit shops and restaurants.

Day 22: Depart Kathmandu for home.

Day 23: Arrive in country of residence

Dates and Costs

Cost: $5,350

2017
March 31 – April 22
October 8 – October 31

Costs Include:
• Accommodations at the Yak & Yeti hotel for two nights before and two nights after the trek
• Airport pick up upon arrival
• Welcome dinner in Kathmandu
• All in country flights to Lukla
• All lodging while trekking
• All meals while trekking
• Permits and Park entrance fees
• American guide, Sherpa guide, Nepali staff to carry loads, etc.

Costs Do Not Include:
• Personal items (see Equipment list)
• Wire transfer fee
• Meals in Kathmandu
• Any bottled beverages while trekking
• Option to upgrade to single room
• Cost for helicopter transport
• Any costs as the result of an early departure from the program

Gear List

Ice Axe: General mountaineering tool (65cm)
Crampons: General mountaineering crampons
Climbing Helmet: Must be able to fit over your ski hat
Ascender: 1 right or left hand ascender (Petzel brand is best)
Alpine Climbing Harness: A mountaineering harness, with adjustable leg loops. Not a rock climbing “sport” harness
Carabineers: 3 locking and 3 regular
Rappel device: ATC or figure 8
Mountaineering boots: A double plastic or insulated climbing boot
Hiking shoes: comfortable boots or shoes for the trek to base camp
Booties: Optional, down is best
Wool or synthetic socks: 3 pair
Liner socks: 3 pair
Synthetic Short underwear: A non cotton style underwear
Lightweight Long Underwear: 1-2 pair long sleeve shirt and long pants
Heavyweight long underwear: 1 pair
Short Sleeve Synthetic Shirt: 1-2 pair
Lightweight Nylon Pants: 1-2 pair
Soft Shell jacket: To be worn over other layers
Soft Shell Pants: Very breathable and water repellant
Hard Shell Jacket with hood: A waterproof and breathable shell jacket
Hard Shell Pants: Waterproof and breathable shell pants
Insulated Jacket with hood: Down or PrimaLoft
Insulated Synthetic Pants: Down or PrimaLoft
Sun hat: A baseball style cap
Synthetic or wool hat (ski hat)
Balaclava: to protect your neck and face in high winds
Baseball Camp or other sun hat: To shade your face / neck from the sun on a hot day
Bandana or Buff: To protect your neck / face from the sun
Glacier glasses: Full protection with side covers or wrap around
Ski goggles: To be worn on summit day in the event of high winds
Lightweight synthetic liner gloves: For wearing on a hot day
Soft shell gloves: To wear for moderate cold / wind
Shell glove with insulated liner: To wear for severe cold / strong wind
Climbing Backpack: A 40L pack should be large enough
Trekking Backpack: Optional, to use during the trek
Sleeping Bag: rated to at least -20°F
Compression stuff sacks: For reducing volume of the sleeping bag, down parka, etc.
Self inflating sleeping pad: Full length is preferred
Closed cell foam pad: To be used in conjunction with the inflating pad for warmth and comfort when sleeping.
Trekking poles: Adjustable
Headlamp: With extra batteries
Sunscreen: SPF 40 or better
Lip screen: SPF 40 or better (2 sticks).
Water bottles: 2 or 3 wide mouth bottles with 1 liter capacity.
Pee bottle: 1 liter minimum bottle for convenience at night in the tent.
Toiletry bag: Include toilet paper and hand sanitizer and small towel
Knife or multi tool (optional).
Trash compactor bags: to line back pack and stuff sacks in the event of rain or wet snow is falling on us.
Camera: bring extra batteries and memory cards.
Travel Clothes: For days in Kathmandu.
Duffel bags (2) with locks: To transport equipment.
Base Camp Items: Kindle, Ipad, smart phone, etc.
Snack food: Please bring 1-2 days of your favorite climbing snack food such as bars, gels, nuts, beef jerky, etc. A variety of salty and sweet is good.
Small personal first aid kit: Include athletic tape, band aids, Ibuprofen, blister care, personal medications, etc.
Medications and Prescriptions: Bring antibiotics (Azithromycin, etc.), and altitude medicine such as Diamox and dexamethasone.

Day 1: Depart country of residence.

Day 2: Transit day

Day 3: Arrive in Kathmandu. We will pick you up at the airport and take you to the Yak & Yeti hotel. This is historically the ‘climbers hotel’ where many expeditions have stayed over the years. We enjoy a welcome dinner with the team.

Day 4: City tour of Kathmandu, we visit the Monkey Temple, Boudhanath (one of the holiest Buddhist sites in Kathmandu), Pashupatinath, and the Swayambhunath. After the tour we have dinner, then prepare for an early morning flight to Lukla.

Day 5: We fly by fixed wing aircraft into Lukla, and begin our trek! We pass through several Sherpa villages, and enter the Sagarmatha (Everest) National Park. After crossing the river by suspension bridge, we arrive in the village of Phakding.

Day 6: We continue trekking along the Dudh Kosi River through the village of Monjo, then up the hill to Namche Bazaar. Here we will spend 2 nights in our comfortable lodge acclimatizing and enjoying the sights and cafes in Namche.

Day 7: We go for an acclimatization hike and return to our lodge to rest and prepare for the next day of trekking.

Day 8: After breakfast we head out of Namche and traverse the magnificent valley leaving towards Tengboche. Here we have spectacular views of Everest, Lhotse, and Ama Dablam for the first time. We arrive in Tengboche and tour the famous Tengboche Monastery, and then continue to Debuche where we spend the night in the Rivendell lodge.

Day 9: Depart Debuche and trek through the rhododendron forest then cross the river and hike up the short hill to Pangboche. Here we visit with Lama Geshe, the high lama of the Khumbu Valley, who many climbers visit for blessings before heading to climb peaks such as Everest, Lhotse, or Island Peak. We stay in Pangboche this evening.

Day 10: From Pangboche we gain elevation and have lunch in Shomari, near the pass there the valley divides. We then cross the river and arrive in Dingboche.

Day 11: After breakfast we trek onward past Thugla and arrive in Lobuche, the highest yak grazing ground in the Khumbu Valley. We overnight in Lobuche.

Day 12: Trek to Gorak Shep. After checking into our lodge and having lunch, we hike up nearby Kala Patthar for an amazing view of Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, and the other surrounding peaks. We return to Gorak Shep for dinner.

Day 13: We trek to Everest base camp and visit one of the climbing team camps that are in operation for the season. After a few photos of the Khumbu Icefall we return to Gorak Shep to spend the night.

Day 14: Today we descend down the valley to Dingboche where we rest and prepare for our trek to Chukung the following day.

Day 15: Arriving Chukung we organize our gear and prepare to leave the lodge setting for our camp at Island Peak base camp.

Day 16: After breakfast at the lodge we trek to our base camp, review some technical climbing skills then have an early dinner in preparation for our ‘alpine start.’

Day 17: We awake around midnight and set out in the pre dawn hours climbing up the ridgeline, then onto the glacier. Once on the glacier we climb roped up and ascent to the prominent ridgeline where we utilize fixed ropes to negotiate the final slopes to the summit. We decent to our base camp and continue onward to Chukung where we are greeted with a hearty and well-deserved meal.

Day 18: From Chukung we trek to Namche, where we enjoy the many cafes and shops of the “capital of the Khumbu.”

Day 19: Trek to Lukla and spend our final night in the mountains.

Day 20. Fly to Kathmandu check into the Yak & Yeti hotel.

Day 21: Extra day for touring Kathmandu, visit shops and restaurants.

Day 22: Depart Kathmandu for home.

Day 23: Arrive in country of residence

Cost: $5,350

2017
March 31 – April 22
October 8 – October 31

Costs Include:
• Accommodations at the Yak & Yeti hotel for two nights before and two nights after the trek
• Airport pick up upon arrival
• Welcome dinner in Kathmandu
• All in country flights to Lukla
• All lodging while trekking
• All meals while trekking
• Permits and Park entrance fees
• American guide, Sherpa guide, Nepali staff to carry loads, etc.

Costs Do Not Include:
• Personal items (see Equipment list)
• Wire transfer fee
• Meals in Kathmandu
• Any bottled beverages while trekking
• Option to upgrade to single room
• Cost for helicopter transport
• Any costs as the result of an early departure from the program

Ice Axe: General mountaineering tool (65cm)
Crampons: General mountaineering crampons
Climbing Helmet: Must be able to fit over your ski hat
Ascender: 1 right or left hand ascender (Petzel brand is best)
Alpine Climbing Harness: A mountaineering harness, with adjustable leg loops. Not a rock climbing “sport” harness
Carabineers: 3 locking and 3 regular
Rappel device: ATC or figure 8
Mountaineering boots: A double plastic or insulated climbing boot
Hiking shoes: comfortable boots or shoes for the trek to base camp
Booties: Optional, down is best
Wool or synthetic socks: 3 pair
Liner socks: 3 pair
Synthetic Short underwear: A non cotton style underwear
Lightweight Long Underwear: 1-2 pair long sleeve shirt and long pants
Heavyweight long underwear: 1 pair
Short Sleeve Synthetic Shirt: 1-2 pair
Lightweight Nylon Pants: 1-2 pair
Soft Shell jacket: To be worn over other layers
Soft Shell Pants: Very breathable and water repellant
Hard Shell Jacket with hood: A waterproof and breathable shell jacket
Hard Shell Pants: Waterproof and breathable shell pants
Insulated Jacket with hood: Down or PrimaLoft
Insulated Synthetic Pants: Down or PrimaLoft
Sun hat: A baseball style cap
Synthetic or wool hat (ski hat)
Balaclava: to protect your neck and face in high winds
Baseball Camp or other sun hat: To shade your face / neck from the sun on a hot day
Bandana or Buff: To protect your neck / face from the sun
Glacier glasses: Full protection with side covers or wrap around
Ski goggles: To be worn on summit day in the event of high winds
Lightweight synthetic liner gloves: For wearing on a hot day
Soft shell gloves: To wear for moderate cold / wind
Shell glove with insulated liner: To wear for severe cold / strong wind
Climbing Backpack: A 40L pack should be large enough
Trekking Backpack: Optional, to use during the trek
Sleeping Bag: rated to at least -20°F
Compression stuff sacks: For reducing volume of the sleeping bag, down parka, etc.
Self inflating sleeping pad: Full length is preferred
Closed cell foam pad: To be used in conjunction with the inflating pad for warmth and comfort when sleeping.
Trekking poles: Adjustable
Headlamp: With extra batteries
Sunscreen: SPF 40 or better
Lip screen: SPF 40 or better (2 sticks).
Water bottles: 2 or 3 wide mouth bottles with 1 liter capacity.
Pee bottle: 1 liter minimum bottle for convenience at night in the tent.
Toiletry bag: Include toilet paper and hand sanitizer and small towel
Knife or multi tool (optional).
Trash compactor bags: to line back pack and stuff sacks in the event of rain or wet snow is falling on us.
Camera: bring extra batteries and memory cards.
Travel Clothes: For days in Kathmandu.
Duffel bags (2) with locks: To transport equipment.
Base Camp Items: Kindle, Ipad, smart phone, etc.
Snack food: Please bring 1-2 days of your favorite climbing snack food such as bars, gels, nuts, beef jerky, etc. A variety of salty and sweet is good.
Small personal first aid kit: Include athletic tape, band aids, Ibuprofen, blister care, personal medications, etc.
Medications and Prescriptions: Bring antibiotics (Azithromycin, etc.), and altitude medicine such as Diamox and dexamethasone.

More Climbs

0

The sixth highest peak on Earth, Cho Oyu is a great introduction to climbing above 8000 meters, and excellent preparation for Everest. Cho Oyu is located along the Nepal / Tibet border and we access the mountain from the Tibetan (Northern) side. The route we climb (West Face) is relatively moderate, with only a few sections of steep rock or ice. After the 2 day trek to base camp we arrive in our very comfortable camp, complete with a large dining tent, a state of the art communications tent, and top of the line personal and shower tents. From here we begin our acclimatization process, and make two rotations up the mountain to our higher camps before our summit attempt. Joining us will be our top climbing Sherpas who also frequently climb with us on Everest, and assist in establishing the route and setting our camps. Many of these Sherpas will also climb with us to the summit, where the view of Everest, Lhotse, and other 8000 meter peak is spectacular! Join us for this wonderful experience, an expedition climb of an 8000-meter peak in style!

Itinerary

Day 1: Arrive in Kathmandu. You will be picked up at the airport and driven to the Yak & Yeti hotel. We will have a group welcome dinner and orientation.

Day 2: Equipment check, then city tour of Kathmandu.

Day 3: Drive to Zhangmu.

Day 4: Drive to Nylam.

Day 5: Rest and acclimatize in Nylam.

Day 6: Drive to the small village of Tingri. We go for a short acclimatization hike and have a spectacular view of Cho Oyu, as well as Everest from the Northern side.

Day 7: Drive to trail head (initial base camp), camp and organize gear.

Day 8: If needed we rest here or go for acclimatization hikes.

Day 9: Today we hike to the intermediate camp.

Day 10: Trek to base camp.

Day 11: Rest and organize gear in base camp.

Day 12-14: Review technical climbing skills and acclimatize with short hikes.

Days 15-16: First rotation to Camp 1 and near Camp 2.

Days 17-19: Rest in base camp. Prepare for next rotation.

Day 20-22: Second rotation to Camps 1 and 2.

Day 23-25: Rest in base camp and evaluate weather conditions.

Day 26-30: Summit rotation.

Days 31-35: Extra days in case of bad weather, etc. Organize gear in base camp and prepare to trek out.

Day 36: Trek to trail head and drive to Tingri.

Day 37: Drive from Tingri to Kathmandu.

Day 38: Enjoy the restaurants and shops in Kathmandu.

Day 39: Depart Nepal for country of residence.

Day 40: Arrive home.

Dates and Costs

September 1- October 10, 2017
Cost: $23,950
Deposit: $6,000

Cost Includes:
• Airport pickup upon arrival in Kathmandu
• Accommodations at the Yak & Yeti hotel for 2 nights before and 2 nights after the expedition.
• All ground transport during the expedition.
• All accommodations during the drive to base camp.
• All group gear such as tents, cooking equipment, climbing gear.
• Oxygen (3 bottles), mask, regulator.
• Communications equipment (VHF base station, hand held radios, satellite internet access -500MB of data free, this is a $3500 value not counting hardware costs and set up fees)
• All food and meals during the expedition outside of Kathmandu.
• All climbing permits and administration expenses owed to China.
• Western guide, support staff including climbing Sherpas, cooks, porters.

Not Included:
• Wire transfer fee
• Airfare to Nepal
• Meals in Nepal
• All expenses incurred for an early departure from the expedition.
• Medical and evacuation insurance, trip cancellation insurance.
• Personal items (see gear list)

Gear List

Ice Axe: General mountaineering tool (65cm)
Crampons: General mountaineering crampons
Climbing Helmet: Must be able to fit over your ski hat
Ascender: 1 right or left hand ascender (Petzel brand is best)
Alpine Climbing Harness: A mountaineering harness, with adjustable leg loops. Not a rock climbing “sport” harness.
Carabineers: 3 locking and 3 regular
Rappel device: ATC or figure 8
Mountaineering boots: Olympus Mons, Millet, etc.
Hiking shoes: comfortable boots or shoes for the trek to base camp.
Camp boots: comfortable boots for wearing in camp.
Booties: Optional, down is best.
Wool or synthetic socks: 6 pair
Liner socks: 3 pair
Synthetic Short underwear: A non cotton style underwear.
Lightweight Long Underwear: 2-3 pair long sleeve shirt and long pants
Heavyweight long underwear: 1 pair
Short Sleeve Synthetic Shirt: 1-2 pair
Lightweight Nylon Pants: 1-2 pair
Soft Shell jacket: With or without hood
Soft Shell Pants: With accessory side pockets
Hard Shell Jacket with hood: A waterproof and breathable shell jacket
Hard Shell Pants: Waterproof and breathable shell pants
Down Parka with hood: This “puffy” jacket we wear when taking breaks when climbing below Camp 3.
Insulated synthetic Pants: These are nice to have when climbing below Camp 3.
Down Suit: Feathered Friends, Sherpa, North Face, Mountain Hardwear, etc. We wear this above Camp 3.
Synthetic or wool hat (ski hat).
Balaclava: to protect your neck and face in high winds.
Baseball Cap or other sun hat: To shade your face / neck from the sun on a hot day.
Bandana or Buff: To protect your neck / face from the sun.
Glacier glasses: Full protection with side covers or wrap around.
Ski goggles: To be worn on summit day in the event of high winds.
Lightweight synthetic liner gloves: For wearing on a hot day.
Soft shell gloves: To wear for moderate cold / wind.
Shell glove with insulated liner: To wear for severe cold / strong wind.
Expedition Mitts: Large enough to fit a liner glove inside.
Expedition Backpack: 65L pack should be large enough.
Trekking Backpack: To carry on the trek to base camp. Simple and light.
Sleeping Bag (for high camps): Rated to at least -40°F. Goose down or synthetic.
Sleeping Bag (for base camp): rated to at least -20°F.
Compression stuff sacks: For reducing volume of the sleeping bag, down parka, etc., in your pack.
Self inflating sleeping pad (1 for base camp and 1 for high camps): Full length is preferred.
Closed cell foam pad: To be used in conjunction with the inflating pad for warmth and comfort when sleeping.
Trekking poles: Adjustable
Cup: A plastic 16 oz. minimum cup or mug
Bowl: A plastic bowl for eating dinner or breakfast out of
Spoon: Plastic spoon (lexan)
Headlamp: With 2 extra sets of new batteries
Sunscreen: SPF 50 or better
Lip screen: SPF 30 or better (2 sticks).
Water bottles: 2 or 3 wide mouth bottles with 1 liter capacity.
Water bottle parkas (2): fully insulated with zip opening.
Thermos: 1 liter
Pee bottle: 1 liter minimum bottle for convenience at night in the tent.
Toiletry bag: Include toilet paper and hand sanitizer and small towel
Hand warmers & toe warmers: 3 sets of each. Or use Hot Tronics for food warmer system.
Knife or multi tool (optional).
Trash compactor bags: to line back pack and stuff sacks in the event of rain or wet snow is falling on us.
Camera: bring extra batteries and memory cards.
Travel Clothes: For days in Kathmandu.
Duffel bags (2) with locks: To transport equipment.
Base Camp Items: Kindle, Ipad, smart phone, etc.
Snack food: Please bring a few days of your favorite climbing snack food such as bars, gels, nuts, beef jerky, etc. A variety of salty and sweet is good.
Small personal first aid kit: Include athletic tape, band aids, Ibuprofen, blister care, personal medications, etc.
Medications and Prescriptions: Bring antibiotics (Azithromycin, etc.), and altitude medicine such as Diamox and dexamethasone.

Photo Credit this page: Ben Jones

Day 1: Arrive in Kathmandu. You will be picked up at the airport and driven to the Yak & Yeti hotel. We will have a group welcome dinner and orientation.

Day 2: Equipment check, then city tour of Kathmandu.

Day 3: Drive to Zhangmu.

Day 4: Drive to Nylam.

Day 5: Rest and acclimatize in Nylam.

Day 6: Drive to the small village of Tingri. We go for a short acclimatization hike and have a spectacular view of Cho Oyu, as well as Everest from the Northern side.

Day 7: Drive to trail head (initial base camp), camp and organize gear.

Day 8: If needed we rest here or go for acclimatization hikes.

Day 9: Today we hike to the intermediate camp.

Day 10: Trek to base camp.

Day 11: Rest and organize gear in base camp.

Day 12-14: Review technical climbing skills and acclimatize with short hikes.

Days 15-16: First rotation to Camp 1 and near Camp 2.

Days 17-19: Rest in base camp. Prepare for next rotation.

Day 20-22: Second rotation to Camps 1 and 2.

Day 23-25: Rest in base camp and evaluate weather conditions.

Day 26-30: Summit rotation.

Days 31-35: Extra days in case of bad weather, etc. Organize gear in base camp and prepare to trek out.

Day 36: Trek to trail head and drive to Tingri.

Day 37: Drive from Tingri to Kathmandu.

Day 38: Enjoy the restaurants and shops in Kathmandu.

Day 39: Depart Nepal for country of residence.

Day 40: Arrive home.

September 1- October 10, 2017
Cost: $23,950
Deposit: $6,000

Cost Includes:
• Airport pickup upon arrival in Kathmandu
• Accommodations at the Yak & Yeti hotel for 2 nights before and 2 nights after the expedition.
• All ground transport during the expedition.
• All accommodations during the drive to base camp.
• All group gear such as tents, cooking equipment, climbing gear.
• Oxygen (3 bottles), mask, regulator.
• Communications equipment (VHF base station, hand held radios, satellite internet access -500MB of data free, this is a $3500 value not counting hardware costs and set up fees)
• All food and meals during the expedition outside of Kathmandu.
• All climbing permits and administration expenses owed to China.
• Western guide, support staff including climbing Sherpas, cooks, porters.

Not Included:
• Wire transfer fee
• Airfare to Nepal
• Meals in Nepal
• All expenses incurred for an early departure from the expedition.
• Medical and evacuation insurance, trip cancellation insurance.
• Personal items (see gear list)

Ice Axe: General mountaineering tool (65cm)
Crampons: General mountaineering crampons
Climbing Helmet: Must be able to fit over your ski hat
Ascender: 1 right or left hand ascender (Petzel brand is best)
Alpine Climbing Harness: A mountaineering harness, with adjustable leg loops. Not a rock climbing “sport” harness.
Carabineers: 3 locking and 3 regular
Rappel device: ATC or figure 8
Mountaineering boots: Olympus Mons, Millet, etc.
Hiking shoes: comfortable boots or shoes for the trek to base camp.
Camp boots: comfortable boots for wearing in camp.
Booties: Optional, down is best.
Wool or synthetic socks: 6 pair
Liner socks: 3 pair
Synthetic Short underwear: A non cotton style underwear.
Lightweight Long Underwear: 2-3 pair long sleeve shirt and long pants
Heavyweight long underwear: 1 pair
Short Sleeve Synthetic Shirt: 1-2 pair
Lightweight Nylon Pants: 1-2 pair
Soft Shell jacket: With or without hood
Soft Shell Pants: With accessory side pockets
Hard Shell Jacket with hood: A waterproof and breathable shell jacket
Hard Shell Pants: Waterproof and breathable shell pants
Down Parka with hood: This “puffy” jacket we wear when taking breaks when climbing below Camp 3.
Insulated synthetic Pants: These are nice to have when climbing below Camp 3.
Down Suit: Feathered Friends, Sherpa, North Face, Mountain Hardwear, etc. We wear this above Camp 3.
Synthetic or wool hat (ski hat).
Balaclava: to protect your neck and face in high winds.
Baseball Cap or other sun hat: To shade your face / neck from the sun on a hot day.
Bandana or Buff: To protect your neck / face from the sun.
Glacier glasses: Full protection with side covers or wrap around.
Ski goggles: To be worn on summit day in the event of high winds.
Lightweight synthetic liner gloves: For wearing on a hot day.
Soft shell gloves: To wear for moderate cold / wind.
Shell glove with insulated liner: To wear for severe cold / strong wind.
Expedition Mitts: Large enough to fit a liner glove inside.
Expedition Backpack: 65L pack should be large enough.
Trekking Backpack: To carry on the trek to base camp. Simple and light.
Sleeping Bag (for high camps): Rated to at least -40°F. Goose down or synthetic.
Sleeping Bag (for base camp): rated to at least -20°F.
Compression stuff sacks: For reducing volume of the sleeping bag, down parka, etc., in your pack.
Self inflating sleeping pad (1 for base camp and 1 for high camps): Full length is preferred.
Closed cell foam pad: To be used in conjunction with the inflating pad for warmth and comfort when sleeping.
Trekking poles: Adjustable
Cup: A plastic 16 oz. minimum cup or mug
Bowl: A plastic bowl for eating dinner or breakfast out of
Spoon: Plastic spoon (lexan)
Headlamp: With 2 extra sets of new batteries
Sunscreen: SPF 50 or better
Lip screen: SPF 30 or better (2 sticks).
Water bottles: 2 or 3 wide mouth bottles with 1 liter capacity.
Water bottle parkas (2): fully insulated with zip opening.
Thermos: 1 liter
Pee bottle: 1 liter minimum bottle for convenience at night in the tent.
Toiletry bag: Include toilet paper and hand sanitizer and small towel
Hand warmers & toe warmers: 3 sets of each. Or use Hot Tronics for food warmer system.
Knife or multi tool (optional).
Trash compactor bags: to line back pack and stuff sacks in the event of rain or wet snow is falling on us.
Camera: bring extra batteries and memory cards.
Travel Clothes: For days in Kathmandu.
Duffel bags (2) with locks: To transport equipment.
Base Camp Items: Kindle, Ipad, smart phone, etc.
Snack food: Please bring a few days of your favorite climbing snack food such as bars, gels, nuts, beef jerky, etc. A variety of salty and sweet is good.
Small personal first aid kit: Include athletic tape, band aids, Ibuprofen, blister care, personal medications, etc.
Medications and Prescriptions: Bring antibiotics (Azithromycin, etc.), and altitude medicine such as Diamox and dexamethasone.

More Climbs

0

Trekking through the Khumbu Valley to Everest base camp is a life changing experience for many, as the spectacular mountain scenery integrated with Sherpa culture and Buddhist religion makes for a truly engaging combination. We follow the same route to Base Camp as the Everest climbers and recount the historical ascents with the climbers who share our lodges along the way. We have the option to climb Island Peak, a beautiful glaciated climb at 20,350’. This is a great introduction to Himalayan climbing, as the terrain and climbing techniques resemble that of the nearby peaks of Everest and Lhotse.

Itinerary

Day 1: Depart country of residence.

Day 2: Transit day

Day 3: Arrive in Kathmandu. We will pick you up at the airport and take you to the Yak & Yeti hotel. This is historically the ‘climbers hotel’ where many expeditions have stayed over the years. We enjoy a welcome dinner with the team.

Day 4: City tour of Kathmandu, we visit the Monkey Temple, Boudhanath (one of the holiest Buddhist sites in Kathmandu), Pashupatinath, and the Swayambhunath. After the tour we have dinner, then prepare for an early morning flight to Lukla.

Day 5: We fly by fixed wing aircraft into Lukla, and begin our trek! We pass through several Sherpa villages, and enter the Sagarmatha (Everest) National Park. After crossing the river by suspension bridge, we arrive in the village of Phakding.

Day 6: We continue trekking along the Dudh Kosi River through the village of Monjo, then up the hill to Namche Bazaar. Here we will spend 2 nights in our comfortable lodge acclimatizing and enjoying the sights and cafes in Namche.

Day 7: We go for an acclimatization hike and return to our lodge to rest and prepare for the next day of trekking.

Day 8: After breakfast we head out of Namche and traverse the magnificent valley towards Tengboche. Here we have spectacular views of Everest, Lhotse, and Ama Dablam for the first time. We arrive in Tengboche and tour the famous Tengboche Monastery, and then continue to Debuche where we spend the night in the Rivendell lodge.

Day 9: Depart Debuche and trek through the rhododendron forest then cross the river and hike up the short hill to Pangboche. Here we visit with Lama Geshe, the high lama of the Khumbu Valley, who many climbers visit for blessings before heading to climb peaks such as Everest, Lhotse, or Island Peak. We continue up the valley to Dingboche to stay this evening.

Day 10: Today we do an acclimatization hike above Dingboche to gain spectacular views of Cho Oyu, Makalu, and Lhotse, then return to our lodge in Dingboche to spend the night.

Day 11: After breakfast we trek onward past Thugla and arrive in Lobuche, the highest yak grazing ground in the Khumbu Valley. We overnight in Lobuche.

Day 12: Trek to Gorak Shep. After checking into our lodge and having lunch, we hike up nearby Kala Patthar for an amazing view of Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, and the other surrounding peaks. We return to Gorak Shep for dinner.

Day 13: We trek to Everest base camp and visit one of the climbing team camps that are in operation for the season. After a few photos of the Khumbu Icefall we return to Gorak Shep to spend the night.

Day 14: Today we descend down the valley to Debuche where we are acquainted with our friends in the Rivendell lodge.

Day 15: From Debuche we trek to Namche, where we enjoy the many cafes and shops of the “capital of the Khumbu.”

Day 16: Trek to Lukla and spend our final night in the mountains.

Day 17. Fly to Kathmandu check into the Yak & Yeti hotel.

Day 18: Extra day for touring Kathmandu, visit shops and restaurants.

Day 19: Depart Kathmandu for home.

Day 20: Arrive in country of residence

Dates and Costs

Cost: $4,600

2016
March 31 – April 19
October 9 – 28

2017
March 31 – April 19
October 9 – 28

Costs Include:
• Accommodations at the Yak & Yeti hotel for two nights before and two nights after the trek
• Airport pick up upon arrival
• Welcome dinner in Kathmandu
• All in country flights to Lukla
• All lodging while trekking
• All meals while trekking
• Permits and Park entrance fees
• American guide, Sherpa guide, Nepali staff to carry loads, etc.

Costs Do Not Include:
• Personal items (see Equipment list)
• Wire transfer fee
• Meals in Kathmandu
• Any bottled beverages while trekking
• Option to upgrade to single room
• Cost for helicopter transport
• Any costs as the result of an early departure from the program

Gear List

Hiking shoes: comfortable boots or shoes for the trek to base camp.
Wool or synthetic socks: 3 pair
Liner socks: 3 pair
Synthetic Short underwear: A non cotton style underwear.
Lightweight Long Underwear: 1-2 pair longsleve shirt and long pants
Heavyweight long underwear: 1 pair
Short Sleeve Synthetic Shirt: 1-2 pair
Lightweight Nylon Pants: 1-2 pair
Soft Shell jacket: To be worn over other layers
Hard Shell Jacket with hood: A waterproof and breathable shell jacket
Hard Shell Pants: Waterproof and breathable shell pants
Insulated Jacket: Down or Primaloft
Synthetic or wool hat (ski hat).
Baseball Cap or other sun hat: To shade your face / neck from the sun on a hot day.
Bandana or Buff: To protect your neck / face from the sun.
Glacier glasses: Full protection with side covers or wrap around.
Lightweight synthetic liner gloves: For wearing on a hot day.
Soft shell gloves: To wear for moderate cold / wind.
Trekking Backpack: To carry on the trek to base camp. Simple and light.
Sleeping Bag: rated to at least -20°F.
Compression stuff sacks: For reducing volume of the sleeping bag, down parka, etc., in your pack.
Trekking poles: Adjustable
Headlamp: With extra batteries
Sunscreen: SPF 40 or better
Lipscreen: SPF 40 or better (2 sticks).
Water bottles: 2 wide mouth bottles with 1 liter capacity.
Pee bottle: 1 liter minimum bottle for convenience at night in the tent.
Toiletry bag: Include toilet paper and hand sanitizer and small towel.
Knife or multi tool (optional).
Trash compactor bags: to line back pack and stuff sacks in the event of rain or wet snow is falling on us.
Camera: bring extra batteries and memory cards.
Travel Clothes: For days in Kathmandu.
Duffel bags (2) with locks: To transport equipment.
Entertainment Items: Kindle, Ipad, smart phone, etc.
Small personal first aid kit: Include athletic tape, band aids, Ibuprofin, blister care, personal medications, etc.
Medications and Prescriptions: Bring antibiotics (Azithromycin, etc.), and altitude medicine such as Diamox.

Day 1: Depart country of residence.

Day 2: Transit day

Day 3: Arrive in Kathmandu. We will pick you up at the airport and take you to the Yak & Yeti hotel. This is historically the ‘climbers hotel’ where many expeditions have stayed over the years. We enjoy a welcome dinner with the team.

Day 4: City tour of Kathmandu, we visit the Monkey Temple, Boudhanath (one of the holiest Buddhist sites in Kathmandu), Pashupatinath, and the Swayambhunath. After the tour we have dinner, then prepare for an early morning flight to Lukla.

Day 5: We fly by fixed wing aircraft into Lukla, and begin our trek! We pass through several Sherpa villages, and enter the Sagarmatha (Everest) National Park. After crossing the river by suspension bridge, we arrive in the village of Phakding.

Day 6: We continue trekking along the Dudh Kosi River through the village of Monjo, then up the hill to Namche Bazaar. Here we will spend 2 nights in our comfortable lodge acclimatizing and enjoying the sights and cafes in Namche.

Day 7: We go for an acclimatization hike and return to our lodge to rest and prepare for the next day of trekking.

Day 8: After breakfast we head out of Namche and traverse the magnificent valley towards Tengboche. Here we have spectacular views of Everest, Lhotse, and Ama Dablam for the first time. We arrive in Tengboche and tour the famous Tengboche Monastery, and then continue to Debuche where we spend the night in the Rivendell lodge.

Day 9: Depart Debuche and trek through the rhododendron forest then cross the river and hike up the short hill to Pangboche. Here we visit with Lama Geshe, the high lama of the Khumbu Valley, who many climbers visit for blessings before heading to climb peaks such as Everest, Lhotse, or Island Peak. We continue up the valley to Dingboche to stay this evening.

Day 10: Today we do an acclimatization hike above Dingboche to gain spectacular views of Cho Oyu, Makalu, and Lhotse, then return to our lodge in Dingboche to spend the night.

Day 11: After breakfast we trek onward past Thugla and arrive in Lobuche, the highest yak grazing ground in the Khumbu Valley. We overnight in Lobuche.

Day 12: Trek to Gorak Shep. After checking into our lodge and having lunch, we hike up nearby Kala Patthar for an amazing view of Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, and the other surrounding peaks. We return to Gorak Shep for dinner.

Day 13: We trek to Everest base camp and visit one of the climbing team camps that are in operation for the season. After a few photos of the Khumbu Icefall we return to Gorak Shep to spend the night.

Day 14: Today we descend down the valley to Debuche where we are acquainted with our friends in the Rivendell lodge.

Day 15: From Debuche we trek to Namche, where we enjoy the many cafes and shops of the “capital of the Khumbu.”

Day 16: Trek to Lukla and spend our final night in the mountains.

Day 17. Fly to Kathmandu check into the Yak & Yeti hotel.

Day 18: Extra day for touring Kathmandu, visit shops and restaurants.

Day 19: Depart Kathmandu for home.

Day 20: Arrive in country of residence

Cost: $4,600

2016
March 31 – April 19
October 8 – 27

2017
March 31 – April 19
October 8 – 28

Costs Include:
• Accommodations at the Yak & Yeti hotel for two nights before and two nights after the trek
• Airport pick up upon arrival
• Welcome dinner in Kathmandu
• All in country flights to Lukla
• All lodging while trekking
• All meals while trekking
• Permits and Park entrance fees
• American guide, Sherpa guide, Nepali staff to carry loads, etc.

Costs Do Not Include:
• Personal items (see Equipment list)
• Wire transfer fee
• Meals in Kathmandu
• Any bottled beverages while trekking
• Option to upgrade to single room
• Cost for helicopter transport
• Any costs as the result of an early departure from the program

Hiking shoes: comfortable boots or shoes for the trek to base camp.
Wool or synthetic socks: 3 pair
Liner socks: 3 pair
Synthetic Short underwear: A non cotton style underwear.
Lightweight Long Underwear: 1-2 pair longsleve shirt and long pants
Heavyweight long underwear: 1 pair
Short Sleeve Synthetic Shirt: 1-2 pair
Lightweight Nylon Pants: 1-2 pair
Soft Shell jacket: To be worn over other layers
Hard Shell Jacket with hood: A waterproof and breathable shell jacket
Hard Shell Pants: Waterproof and breathable shell pants
Insulated Jacket: Down or Primaloft
Synthetic or wool hat (ski hat).
Baseball Cap or other sun hat: To shade your face / neck from the sun on a hot day.
Bandana or Buff: To protect your neck / face from the sun.
Glacier glasses: Full protection with side covers or wrap around.
Lightweight synthetic liner gloves: For wearing on a hot day.
Soft shell gloves: To wear for moderate cold / wind.
Trekking Backpack: To carry on the trek to base camp. Simple and light.
Sleeping Bag: rated to at least -20°F.
Compression stuff sacks: For reducing volume of the sleeping bag, down parka, etc., in your pack.
Trekking poles: Adjustable
Headlamp: With extra batteries
Sunscreen: SPF 40 or better
Lipscreen: SPF 40 or better (2 sticks).
Water bottles: 2 wide mouth bottles with 1 liter capacity.
Pee bottle: 1 liter minimum bottle for convenience at night in the tent.
Toiletry bag: Include toilet paper and hand sanitizer and small towel.
Knife or multi tool (optional).
Trash compactor bags: to line back pack and stuff sacks in the event of rain or wet snow is falling on us.
Camera: bring extra batteries and memory cards.
Travel Clothes: For days in Kathmandu.
Duffel bags (2) with locks: To transport equipment.
Entertainment Items: Kindle, Ipad, smart phone, etc.
Small personal first aid kit: Include athletic tape, band aids, Ibuprofin, blister care, personal medications, etc.
Medications and Prescriptions: Bring antibiotics (Azithromycin, etc.), and altitude medicine such as Diamox.

More Climbs

0

100% of our 2016 Everest Climbers reached the summit, of those that embarked on the summit attempt a total of 27 climbers (clients, guides and sherpas) reached the top of the world on May 19th, 2016!!
As Expedition Leader and Guide for 9 years running on Mount Everest, Garrett Madison has overseen all aspects for his teams related to planning, organization, and climbing on Mount Everest. As one of the best known “Expedition Leaders” on Mount Everest, Garrett has personally accompanied 44 climbers (clients) to the summit since 2009 (as well as many co guides and climbing Sherpas), more than any other American. Garrett is known for ‘climber care’, making the well being of his clients his number one priority, this is perhaps the most important differentiating factor in our expeditions compared to the others on Mount Everest. Garrett has recently climbed Mount Lhotse (4th highest mountain) two times, in guiding climbers on the “peak to peak” combination in under 24 hours. Garrett has been part of many “firsts” on Everest, such as the 2016 first ascent by an American with a prosthetic leg, however, his proudest accomplishment is a 100% safety record for clients under his watch while climbing the peak.

Mount Everest, known by the Nepalese / Sherpas as Sagarmatha and by the Tibetans as Chomolungma, is the world’s highest peak at 29,035’ (8850m) and is the border between Nepal and Tibet. Since the 1920s, many of the world’s top climbers have attempted to scale Mount Everest, and May 29th 1953 marked the first successful ascent by Tenzing Norgay (Nepal) and Sir Edmund Hillary (New Zealand). Madison Mountaineering offers the premier climbing experience on Mount Everest in regards to summit success, safety, and overall experience. Our teams work together, have fun, and form lasting bonds of friendship over the course of the expedition. Our camaraderie as well as the very high level of support sets us apart from the other teams, we often come to the aid of other climbers in distress. We achieve this with small teams, top guides & sherpas, a focus on safety and good decision making, an overall goal of summit success and making the ‘return trip’, and enjoying the experience of Everest throughout the expedition.

Now leading his 10th expedition to Mount Everest (the last 8 years as ‘Expedition Leader’), Garrett Madison has reached the top 7 times. Garrett has personally guided more climbers (44) over the last 7 years than any other American mountain guide. This vast amount of organizational and logistical expertise, combined with a commitment to provide the best possible services to ensure safety and success, make Madison Mountaineering the premier boutique guiding company on Mount Everest. Climbers will have an unparalleled opportunity for safely climbing to the summit and returning to base camp. Enjoying the experience is a high priority, and our climbers can attest to having a great time throughout! -(Please contact us for past Everest climber testimonials) Our teams are different than the large scale operations where climbers are locked into specific dates for rotations and summit attempts, and may be one of many people sitting down to eat in the dining tent, or dealing with illness spreading throughout the group. Often these large groups have only a leader who remains in base camp and coaches members over the radio, while with our team your leader climbs with you to the summit and back, often making the crucial ‘mission critical’ decisions on the spot, this is a big part of our high level of success and safety. By keeping our team small yet highly supported, we don’t compromise our standards in providing the best strategy, flexibility, and resources needed to succeed in the dynamic environment that is Everest. The equation for success and safety involves variables that can and often rapidly change such as:
• Weather (wind speed, precipitation, temperature)
• Acclimatization and health
• Climbing route (the route often changes daily through the Khumbu Icefall)
• Other climbers and teams (climbers needing assistance, evacuation, as well as periodic overcrowding on the route) Some teams now bring over 100+ Climbers and Sherpas, hardly an intimate experience!

We can quickly adjust to changing conditions better than any other team. We have the best communication systems available to monitor the weather (along with a few dedicated meteorologists), to communicate with other teams on the mountain to collaborate on the route, weather, rescues, and summit schedule. We have an experienced base camp manager, a menu plan developed by a certified nutritionist, and a helicopter available that can evacuate an injured or ill climber if necessary from as high as Camp 3. Our Sherpas are among the finest and most respected on the mountain. We are a team that works together to accomplish our common goals of safety, success, and having fun. If you would like to know more, we invite you to contact us!

Photo Credit: Stuart Erskine

Everest Express

History was made in 2013 when two climbers joined Garrett halfway through the Mount Everest season. These men had each pre acclimatized at homes in a chamber over their beds for one month and then flew directly to the mountain via helicopter where they integrated with the regular climbing team. From that point on (April 26th) they climbed on schedule with the regular team that Garrett led, and summited with the team on May 18th. They experienced no negative effects, and performed well overall. They were door to door in less than a month, and this marked the first and only time that an expedited schedule of this length has been accomplished for guided climbers on a commercial Mount Everest expedition.

This program includes:
‌• Pre acclimatization plan and rental of the altitude bedchamber
• Training plan to develop appropriate fitness for the Everest climb
• Climbing strategy upon arrival in Nepal to the summit of Mount Everest and back
• All regular logistics and services associated with the standard Mount Everest program we offer once climbers arrive in Nepal.

The Everest Express climb was a success, and proves that with the proper training, technology, and coaching, climbers can elect to forgo the normal two months required to climb Mount Everest. For those with commitments to family and business that would prohibit a two month departure, the Everest Express allows for a successful climbing experience on Mount Everest in a one month or less time frame. Garrett Madison is currently the only guide to have organized and executed successfully a program of this nature in less than one month.

Everest Express Program: $75,000
April 25-May 25, 2017
Cost Includes (in addition to normal Mount Everest program):
• Rental of altitude chamber system for 1-month duration of pre acclimatization
• Helicopter flights in Nepal, Kathmandu to Mount Everest base camp and return
• All permits and equipment for the climb including extra oxygen
• Coaching and strategy, guiding by Madison Mountaineering
• Please contact us to learn more about the acclimatization plan and climbing strategy for this program.

Itinerary

Please contact us to learn about our finely tuned acclimatization and climbing strategy as it relates to our Mount Everest Expedition. Our climbing itinerary has been refined over 10 Mount Everest expeditions, and in 2016 resulted in 100% of the climbers reaching the summit, who embarked on the summit attempt, a total of 27 members on May 19th, 2016.

Dates and Costs

April 2 (arrive Kathmandu) – May 31, 2017
Cost: $65,000
Deposit: $25,000

Mount Everest and Lhotse Combination Climb
April 2 – May 31, 2017
Cost: $80,000

Mount Everest Camp 2 Climb
April 2 – April 30, 2016
Cost: $10,500

Expedition costs include:
• Airport pick up in Kathmandu
• 3 night accommodations in Kathmandu at Yak & Yeti Hotel, 2 nights before and 1 night after the expedition.
• Welcome dinner in Kathmandu.
• Lodging for all nights during the trek to and from base camp.
• Tents during the climb.
• All food during the trek and climb. We provide high quality food from the USA and Nepal. If you have specific dietary requirements, please give us specific details and we will accommodate your needs!
• All transportation in Nepal, including round-trip flights from Kathmandu to Lukla & Lukla to Kathmandu. Helicopter out of base camp after expedition is available as an optional upgrade.
• All group equipment needed to climb the mountain: cooking gear, fuel, stoves, ropes, all forms of rock, ice, and snow protection, radio communications, oxygen delivery system and oxygen cylinders, medical supplies, etc.
• Internet access wifi is available to all climbers on our team at base camp ($50/gigabyte). Sat phone is available at $3 per minute.
• Sherpa, porters, liaison officer, camp staff and American mountain guides.
• All administration fees owed to Nepal, including climbing permits.

Expedition costs do not include:
• $25 Wire Transfer Fee (If Applicable)
• International round-trip airfare (Home Country-Nepal-Home Country).
• Meals in Kathmandu and hotels after the climb (once the climber has left the mountain).
• Personal gear, clothing and sleeping equipment (see gear list).
• Trip cancellation insurance.
• Comprehensive medical exam: A physician signed Medical Release Form is required.
• Alcoholic beverages and bottled drinks.
• All expenses incurred in the event of early departure (evacuation fees, transport, extra hotel nights, etc.).
• Personal Items.
• Charges incurred as a result of delays beyond the control of Madison Mountaineering, LLC.
• Personal communication (phone, fax, e-mail) between Nepal and home country.
• Gratuity for western guide.
• $1000 Sherpa summit bonus.

Nepal Cancellation/Refund Policy
• Madison Mountaineering, LLC highly recommends trip cancellation insurance for all expeditions. Due to the nature and heavy costs of government and operator permits, Madison Mountaineering must adhere to a stringent refund policy.
• Deposit due with registration materials.
• All balances are due 120 days prior to departure date unless otherwise specified.
• Participants whose balances are not received by the 120-day deadline as stated above, risk forfeiture of their funds and their place on the expedition.
• There are no refunds for the deposit or balance for this expedition.

Note: Madison Mountaineering, LLC reserves the right to waive any fees. As we offer personalized service, we will attempt to accommodate changes and cancellations when necessary, waiving certain fees when feasible. Deposits paid by participants acknowledge the above cancellation terms.

Gear List

• Ice Axe: General mountaineering tool (65cm)
• Crampons: General mountaineering crampons
• Climbing Helmet: Must be able to fit over your ski hat
• Ascender: 1 right or left hand ascender (Petzel brand is best)
• Alpine Climbing Harness: A mountaineering harness, with adjustable leg loops. Not a rock climbing “sport” harness.
• Carabiners: 3 locking and 3 regular
• Rappel device: ATC or figure 8
• Mountaineering boots: Olympus Mons, Millet, ect.
• Hiking shoes: comfortable boots or shoes for the trek to base camp.
• Camp boots: comfortable boots for wearing in camp.
• Booties: Optional, down is best.
• Wool or synthetic socks: 6 pair
• Liner socks: 3 pair
• Synthetic Short underwear: A non cotton style underwear.
• Lightweight Long Underwear: 2-3 pair longsleve shirt and long pants
• Heavyweight long underwear: 1 pair
• Short Sleeve Synthetic Shirt: 1-2 pair
• Lightweight Nylon Pants: 1-2 pair
• Soft Shell jacket: To be worn over other layers
• Soft Shell Pants: Very breathable and water repellant
• Hard Shell Jacket with hood: A waterproof and breathable shell jacket
• Hard Shell Pants: Waterproof and breathable shell pants
• Insulated Down Jacket with hood: We primarily wear this when climbing below Camp 2.
• Insulated synthetic Pants: Worn primarily when climbing below Camp 2.
• Down Suit: Feathered Friends, Sherpa, North Face, Mountain Hardwear, etc. We wear this climbing above Camp 2.
• Warm Hat: Synthetic or wool hat (ski hat).
• Balaclava: to protect your neck and face in high winds.
• Baseball Camp or other sun hat: To shade your face / neck from the sun on a hot day.
• Bandana or Buff: To protect your neck / face from the sun.
• Glacier glasses: Full protection with side covers or wrap around.
• Ski goggles: To be worn on summit day in the event of high winds.
• Lightweight synthetic liner gloves: For wearing on a hot day.
• Soft shell gloves: To wear for moderate cold / wind.
• Shell glove with insulated liner: To wear for severe cold / strong wind.
• Expedition Mitts: Large enough to fit a liner glove inside.
• Expedition Backpack: 65L pack should be large enough.
• Trekking Backpack: To carry on the trek to base camp. Simple and light.
• Sleeping Bag (for high camps): Rated to at least -40°F. Goose down or synthetic.
• Sleeping Bag (for base camp): rated to at least -20°F.
• Compression stuff sacks: For reducing volume of the sleeping bag, down parka, etc., in your pack.
• Self inflating sleeping pad (1 for base camp and 1 for high camps): Full length is preferred.
• Closed cell foam pad: To be used in conjunction with the inflating pad for warmth and comfort when sleeping.
• Trekking poles with snow baskets: Adjustable poles
• Cup: A plastic 16 oz. minimum cup or mug
• Bowl: A plastic bowl for eating dinner or breakfast out of
• Spoon: Plastic spoon (lexan)
• Headlamp: With 2 extra sets of new batteries
• Sunscreen: SPF 50 or better
• Lipscreen: SPF 30 or better (2 sticks).
• Water bottles: 2 or 3 wide mouth bottles with 1 liter capacity.
• Water bottle parkas (2): fully insulated with zip opening.
• Thermos: 1 liter
• Pee bottle: 1 liter minimum bottle for convenience at night in the tent.
• Toiletry bag: Include toilet paper and hand sanitizer and small towel
• Hand warmers & toe warmers: 3 sets of each. Or use Hot Tronics for food warmer system.
• Knife or multi tool (optional).
• Trash compactor bags: to line back pack and stuff sacks as well as for separating gear.
• Camera: bring extra batteries and memory cards.
• Travel Clothes: For days in Kathmandu.
• Duffel bags (2) with locks: To transport equipment.
• Base Camp Items: Kindle, Ipad, smart phone, etc.
• Snack food: Please bring a few days of your favorite climbing snack food such as bars, gels, nuts, beef jerky, etc. A variety of salty and sweet is good.
• Small personal first aid kit: Include athletic tape, band aids, Ibuprofin, blister care, personal medications, etc.
• Medications and Prescriptions: Bring antibiotics (Azithromycin, etc.), and altitude medicine such as Diamox and dexamethasone.

History was made in 2013 when two climbers joined Garrett halfway through the Mount Everest season. These men had each pre acclimatized at homes in a chamber over their beds for one month and then flew directly to the mountain via helicopter where they integrated with the regular climbing team. From that point on (April 26th) they climbed on schedule with the regular team that Garrett led, and summited with the team on May 18th. They experienced no negative effects, and performed well overall. They were door to door in less than a month, and this marked the first and only time that an expedited schedule of this length has been accomplished for guided climbers on a commercial Mount Everest expedition.

This program includes:
‌• Pre acclimatization plan and rental of the altitude bedchamber
• Training plan to develop appropriate fitness for the Everest climb
• Climbing strategy upon arrival in Nepal to the summit of Mount Everest and back
• All regular logistics and services associated with the standard Mount Everest program we offer once climbers arrive in Nepal.

The Everest Express climb was a success, and proves that with the proper training, technology, and coaching, climbers can elect to forgo the normal two months required to climb Mount Everest. For those with commitments to family and business that would prohibit a two month departure, the Everest Express allows for a successful climbing experience on Mount Everest in a one month or less time frame. Garrett Madison is currently the only guide to have organized and executed successfully a program of this nature in less than one month.

Everest Express Program: $75,000
April 25-May 25, 2017
Cost Includes (in addition to normal Mount Everest program):
• Rental of altitude chamber system for 1-month duration of pre acclimatization
• Helicopter flights in Nepal, Kathmandu to Mount Everest base camp and return
• All permits and equipment for the climb including extra oxygen
• Coaching and strategy, guiding by Madison Mountaineering
• Please contact us to learn more about the acclimatization plan and climbing strategy for this program.

Itinerary:

Day 1: Arrive Kathmandu, gear check and stay in Yak & Yeti hotel.

Day 2: Fly via helicopter to Lukla. Transfer in helicopter to Lobuche village, rest and sleep in Lobuche lodge (4,940m / 16,300’).

Day 3: Trek to Everest base camp (5,300m / 17,500’).

Day 4: Rest and organize gear in base camp.

Day 5-7: Begin training on Khumbu glacier near base camp. Climbers will practice how to use the fixed ropes, ice axe, crampons, ascender, etc., to climb safely through the Khumbu Icefall and cross the many ladders on the way up to Camp 2. This training will include ascending vertical ice and rappelling down vertical sections.

Day 8: Climb to Camp 1 (5,800m / 19,200’)

Day 9: Rest in Camp 1, acclimatization hike

Day 10: Climb to Camp 2 (6,450m / 21,300’)

Day 11: Rest in Camp 2, acclimatization hike

Day 12: Climb to Camp 3 (7,200m / 23,760’), return to Camp 2 to sleep

Day 13: Descend to Base Camp

Days 14-17: Rest in Base Camp

Day 18: Climb to Camp 2

Day 19: Rest at Camp 2

Day 20: Climb to Camp 3 (7,200m / 23,760’)

Day 21: Climb to Camp 4 (7,900m / 26,000’)

Day 22: Rest at Camp 4

Day 23: Summit & return to Camp 4

Day 24: Descend to Camp 2

Day 25: Descend to Everest base camp, sleep in base camp

Day 26: Fly by helicopter to Lukla, then Kathmandu

Day 27: Depart Kathmandu for home country

Day 28: Arrive home

Day 29-36: Contingency days (8) in case extra days are needed on the mountain because of bad weather, acclimatization, or getting back to Kathmandu.

Please contact us to learn about our finely tuned acclimatization and climbing strategy as it relates to our Mount Everest Expedition. Our climbing itinerary has been refined over 10 Mount Everest expeditions, and in 2016 resulted in 100% of the climbers reaching the summit, who embarked on the summit attempt, a total of 27 members on May 19th, 2016.

Everest Itinerary:

April 2: Meet in KTM
April 3: City tour in KTM
April 4: Fly to Lukla and begin trek to base camp (stay in Phak Ding)
April 5: Trek to Namche
April 6-7: Rest in Namche, Everest View Point, etc.
April 8: Trek to Debuche
April 9: Trek to Pangboche
April 10: Trek to Dingboche
April 11: Rest in Dingboche
April 12: Trek to Lobuche
April 13: Rest in Loubche
April 14: Trek to base camp
April 15-20: Acclimatize and review mountaineering technique (ladder practice, fixed lines, etc) in base camp, Puja ceremony.
April 21: Climb to Camp 1
April 22: Rest in Camp 1
April 23: Climb to Camp 2
April 24: Rest in Camp 2
April 25: Descend to base camp
April 26-30: Rest in base camp
May 1: Climb to Camp 2
May 2: Rest in Camp 2
May 3: Rest in Camp 2 (hike up west shoulder)
May 4: Touch Camp 3, sleep in Camp 2
May 5: Descend to base camp
May 6-13: Descend and rest in Debuche or Namche, evaluate weather conditions for summit rotation
May 14: Climb to Camp 2
May 15: Rest in Camp 2
May 16: Climb to Camp 3 (use O2)
May 17: Climb to Camp 4 (use O2)
May 18: Rest in Camp 4 (use O2)
May 19: Climb to Summit! (use O2) and return to Camp 4.
May 20: Climb to Summit of Lhtose, return to Camp 2.
May 21: Descent to base camp.
May 22-24: Trek to Lukla
May 25: Arrive Kathmandu
May 26: Depart for home country
May 27-31: Extra days in case of bad weather, etc. (contingency)

*Schedule subject to change based on route conditions, weather conditions, and climber health.

April 2 (arrive Kathmandu) – May 31, 2017
Cost: $65,000
Deposit: $25,000

Mount Everest and Lhotse Combination Climb
April 2 – May 31, 2017
Cost: $80,000

Mount Everest Camp 2 Climb
April 2 – April 30, 2016
Cost: $10,500

Expedition costs include:
• Airport pick up in Kathmandu
• 3 night accommodations in Kathmandu at Yak & Yeti Hotel, 2 nights before and 1 night after the expedition.
• Welcome dinner in Kathmandu.
• Lodging for all nights during the trek to and from base camp.
• Tents during the climb.
• All food during the trek and climb. We provide high quality food from the USA and Nepal. If you have specific dietary requirements, please give us specific details and we will accommodate your needs!
• All transportation in Nepal, including round-trip flights from Kathmandu to Lukla & Lukla to Kathmandu. Helicopter out of base camp after expedition is available as an optional upgrade.
• All group equipment needed to climb the mountain: cooking gear, fuel, stoves, ropes, all forms of rock, ice, and snow protection, radio communications, oxygen delivery system and oxygen cylinders, medical supplies, etc.
• Internet access wifi is available to all climbers on our team at base camp ($50/gigabyte). Sat phone is available at $3 per minute.
• Sherpa, porters, liaison officer, camp staff and American mountain guides.
• All administration fees owed to Nepal, including climbing permits.

Expedition costs do not include:
• $25 Wire Transfer Fee (If Applicable)
• International round-trip airfare (Home Country-Nepal-Home Country).
• Meals in Kathmandu and hotels after the climb (once the climber has left the mountain).
• Personal gear, clothing and sleeping equipment (see gear list).
• Trip cancellation insurance.
• Comprehensive medical exam: A physician signed Medical Release Form is required.
• Alcoholic beverages and bottled drinks.
• All expenses incurred in the event of early departure (evacuation fees, transport, extra hotel nights, etc.).
• Personal Items.
• Charges incurred as a result of delays beyond the control of Madison Mountaineering, LLC.
• Personal communication (phone, fax, e-mail) between Nepal and home country.
• Gratuity for western guide.
• $1000 Sherpa summit bonus.

Nepal Cancellation/Refund Policy
• Madison Mountaineering, LLC highly recommends trip cancellation insurance for all expeditions. Due to the nature and heavy costs of government and operator permits, Madison Mountaineering must adhere to a stringent refund policy.
• Deposit due with registration materials.
• All balances are due 120 days prior to departure date unless otherwise specified.
• Participants whose balances are not received by the 120-day deadline as stated above, risk forfeiture of their funds and their place on the expedition.
• There are no refunds for the deposit or balance for this expedition.

Note: Madison Mountaineering, LLC reserves the right to waive any fees. As we offer personalized service, we will attempt to accommodate changes and cancellations when necessary, waiving certain fees when feasible. Deposits paid by participants acknowledge the above cancellation terms.

• Ice Axe: General mountaineering tool (65cm)
• Crampons: General mountaineering crampons
• Climbing Helmet: Must be able to fit over your ski hat
• Ascender: 1 right or left hand ascender (Petzel brand is best)
• Alpine Climbing Harness: A mountaineering harness, with adjustable leg loops. Not a rock climbing “sport” harness.
• Carabiners: 3 locking and 3 regular
• Rappel device: ATC or figure 8
• Mountaineering boots: Olympus Mons, Millet, ect.
• Hiking shoes: comfortable boots or shoes for the trek to base camp.
• Camp boots: comfortable boots for wearing in camp.
• Booties: Optional, down is best.
• Wool or synthetic socks: 6 pair
• Liner socks: 3 pair
• Synthetic Short underwear: A non cotton style underwear.
• Lightweight Long Underwear: 2-3 pair longsleve shirt and long pants
• Heavyweight long underwear: 1 pair
• Short Sleeve Synthetic Shirt: 1-2 pair
• Lightweight Nylon Pants: 1-2 pair
• Soft Shell jacket: To be worn over other layers
• Soft Shell Pants: Very breathable and water repellant
• Hard Shell Jacket with hood: A waterproof and breathable shell jacket
• Hard Shell Pants: Waterproof and breathable shell pants
• Insulated Down Jacket with hood: We primarily wear this when climbing below Camp 2.
• Insulated synthetic Pants: Worn primarily when climbing below Camp 2.
• Down Suit: Feathered Friends, Sherpa, North Face, Mountain Hardwear, etc. We wear this climbing above Camp 2.
• Warm Hat: Synthetic or wool hat (ski hat).
• Balaclava: to protect your neck and face in high winds.
• Baseball Camp or other sun hat: To shade your face / neck from the sun on a hot day.
• Bandana or Buff: To protect your neck / face from the sun.
• Glacier glasses: Full protection with side covers or wrap around.
• Ski goggles: To be worn on summit day in the event of high winds.
• Lightweight synthetic liner gloves: For wearing on a hot day.
• Soft shell gloves: To wear for moderate cold / wind.
• Shell glove with insulated liner: To wear for severe cold / strong wind.
• Expedition Mitts: Large enough to fit a liner glove inside.
• Expedition Backpack: 65L pack should be large enough.
• Trekking Backpack: To carry on the trek to base camp. Simple and light.
• Sleeping Bag (for high camps): Rated to at least -40°F. Goose down or synthetic.
• Sleeping Bag (for base camp): rated to at least -20°F.
• Compression stuff sacks: For reducing volume of the sleeping bag, down parka, etc., in your pack.
• Self inflating sleeping pad (1 for base camp and 1 for high camps): Full length is preferred.
• Closed cell foam pad: To be used in conjunction with the inflating pad for warmth and comfort when sleeping.
• Trekking poles with snow baskets: Adjustable poles
• Cup: A plastic 16 oz. minimum cup or mug
• Bowl: A plastic bowl for eating dinner or breakfast out of
• Spoon: Plastic spoon (lexan)
• Headlamp: With 2 extra sets of new batteries
• Sunscreen: SPF 50 or better
• Lipscreen: SPF 30 or better (2 sticks).
• Water bottles: 2 or 3 wide mouth bottles with 1 liter capacity.
• Water bottle parkas (2): fully insulated with zip opening.
• Thermos: 1 liter
• Pee bottle: 1 liter minimum bottle for convenience at night in the tent.
• Toiletry bag: Include toilet paper and hand sanitizer and small towel
• Hand warmers & toe warmers: 3 sets of each. Or use Hot Tronics for food warmer system.
• Knife or multi tool (optional).
• Trash compactor bags: to line back pack and stuff sacks as well as for separating gear.
• Camera: bring extra batteries and memory cards.
• Travel Clothes: For days in Kathmandu.
• Duffel bags (2) with locks: To transport equipment.
• Base Camp Items: Kindle, Ipad, smart phone, etc.
• Snack food: Please bring a few days of your favorite climbing snack food such as bars, gels, nuts, beef jerky, etc. A variety of salty and sweet is good.
• Small personal first aid kit: Include athletic tape, band aids, Ibuprofin, blister care, personal medications, etc.
• Medications and Prescriptions: Bring antibiotics (Azithromycin, etc.), and altitude medicine such as Diamox and dexamethasone.

More Climbs