Tag: Pacific Northwest

Things couldn’t have gone better for the first 2017 Baker climb! With a very good forecast of clear sky, warm days and freezing temps overnight we were happy. We walked in our first day and set up camp and had great views of Mt. Baker from the Hogback camp. With plenty of running water nearby and dry tent sites we were happy campers. We did some training on campsite selection, how to keep a clean and tidy camp and went over some knots all while gazing up at the mountain and our intended climbing route. After dinner we went to sleep in preparation for a fun day of training higher up on the mountain. We rose in the morning to more beautiful weather and great snow conditions, soft around camp and firmer up high for good cramponing. We spent the day going over efficient walking and climbing techniques, rope handling and management, self and team arrest as well as some fun facts about glaciology, navigation and weather. Still being early in the afternoon we decided to take a walk up higher on the mountain and see our entire climbing route as well as take in the beauty of Mt. Baker along with the impressive Black Buttes. We put all of our newly acquired skills to use in roping up and climbing up steep terrain to the Black Buttes camp at around 8000ft. We made a hasty descent back to camp with plenty of time to play a couple rounds of Mountain Bocce ball with rocks and discuss the plan for our climb early the following morning. With a planned climbing time of around 2:30am we cooked an early dinner and tried our bast to sleep with the sun in the sky, never and easy task!

As planned, we woke up around 2am, had a quick breakfast and prepared for our summit bid. The morning was moonless and beautiful as we slowly began our ascent, each of us finding our rhythm in our breaths, focusing on the beams of our headlamps. Around 5am the sun began to rise allowing us to trade our headlamps for sunglasses and sunscreen and see how far we’d come. Only a few other climbing parties were climbing and it was a treat to feel a bit of solitude on the mountain. At around 7am we climbed to the top of the Pumice Ridge and traversed out onto the Roman Wall, the final steep headwall before the plateau of the summit. We hustled our way up the 1000ft headwall and it gradually eased off giving way to the lunar like summit plateau. With not a breathe of wind we strolled across the plateau to the small bump called Grant Peak that is the true summit. With all the up over with, all we had left was the down, we celebrated cautiously knowing we had to come back all the way we’d climbed up and knew the warming temps were going to make for mushy snow. After summit photos, hugs and some water and food we headed back down. The descent went as smoothly as the climb and with only 2 short food and water breaks we found ourselves happy and tired back at our tents where we relaxed and drank more water with our cheese, salami, crackers and apples. That night we slept like baby giraffes as they would say on Mt. Kilimanjaro! The next day we leisurely packed up our things and started our final stretch, back down the trail to our cars where we could truly celebrate a successful trip. As we changed out of our climbing clothes and into the clothes of flatlanders we drove home feeling tired but accomplished in a well executed climb. It was great.

Sid Pattison

Instagram @sid_pattison

.

Mountain bocce at our camp

2017 Baker climb

.

Skier hiking up

2017 Baker climb

.

Final steps up the Roman Wall

2017 Baker climb

.

Summit!

2017 Baker climb

This past week our climbers had an action packed two day climb of Mount Rainier in Washington State. Starting at an elevation of 5,400 feet at Paradise our team, led by Garrett Madison, made the three hour ascent with gear to Camp Muir (10,188). Camp Muir is a high altitude refuge for all climbers and provides a staging point between the Muir Snowfield and the Cowlitz Glacier.

After setting up camp and eating a delicious dinner, our climbing team prepared for the long night of climbing ahead. After waking up at 11pm to a full moon, we gathered our gear and roped up before heading off toward the summit. As the hours passed we worked our way across three ladder crossings over large crevasse’s. Nearing the summit we were pleasantly warmed up by the sun breaking over the distant horizon with a spectacular red and orange sky.

All members of our team successfully made it to the summit and had a wonderful time on the mountain. We look forward to returning to Mount Rainier again in 2017!

.

FullSizeRender 4

.

FullSizeRender 7

.

IMG_4056

.

FullSizeRender 3

.

IMG_4013

Madison Mountaineering guide Sid Pattison and climber Patrick had a memorable PNW adventure last week exploring Mount Shuksan and Mount Baker. This month we have another exciting Mt. Baker expedition planned (July 24-27), if interested please contact andrew@madisonmountaineering.com. Mount Baker is the most heavily glaciated peak in the lower 48 contiguous United States!
.
Expedition report and photos by Sid!
The gear is drying, clothes are being washed and the sun is shining, a far cry from Mt. Baker 24 hours ago. While the weather was wet, spirits were high as we made lemonade over the last 3 days. We got high on the mountain and worked on crevasse rescue, self arrest and navigation skills waiting for momentary breaks in the weather to catch a glimpse.
Humor and comroderie are key in these situations. Patrick and I smiled, laughed and generally had a great time. As we walked out, we detoured to the Coleman glacier overlook and were treated great parting views of the breathtaking glacier. Never a bad day out here!
.
B1
.
Patrick enjoying the beautiful views here on the slopes of Baker
B2
.
Sid – Left (Guide), Patrick – Right (Climber)
B4
0

We offer several excellent climbing programs in Washington State. These peaks are located in National Parks, surrounded by old growth forest, and are heavily glaciated. Climbing these mountains involves a one-day approach through the forest, then a few days climbing on glaciers using technical climbing equipment such as the ice axe, crampons, and climbing rope. Known as the Alps of the United States, he best months to climb in Washington are July, August, and September. We offer mountaineering courses as well as summit climbs on these majestic peaks.

Situated in the North Cascades, Mt. Shuksan is perhaps the most photographed mountain in the world. The approach through the old growth Douglas fir trees gives way to high alpine meadows before climbers arrive at the Sulfide glacier. Here we review mountaineering techniques and then make our ascent up the Sulfide glacier and the summit pyramid of Shuksan.

Custom Programs

We regularly organize custom programs for private groups. We are happy to accommodate your program dates, as well as other specific requests related to the itinerary, amenities, and group size. Please contact us if you would like to know more about custom programs.

Itinerary

Day 1: Meet in Seattle in the evening, orientation and check equipment, prepare for an early morning drive to Mt. Shuksan.

Day 2: Drive from Seattle to the trailhead. Hike through the old growth forest and alpine meadows to reach camp at the foot of the glacier.

Day 3: Review climbing techniques; go to bed early in preparation for an alpine start.

Day 4: We awake around 2 AM, and depart before dawn climbing up the glaciated slopes to the summit pyramid. At the summit pyramid we take off our crampons and climb the 5th class rock several pitches to the summit. From the summit we have spectacular views of Mt. Baker and the North Cascades. We descend the pyramid and return to camp, packing our things and then hiking down to the trailhead. We drive back to Seattle and conclude the program with a meal in one of Seattle’s many great restaurants.

Dates and Costs

Mt. Baker Climb: $795
Deposit: $300

Balance due 90 days prior to departure

2017 Departures:
July 31 – August 3
August 28 – 31
September 4 – 7
September 18 – 21

Gear List

‌• Ice Axe: A short ice axe no longer than 60 cm.
‌• Crampons: General mountaineering crampons
‌• Trekking Poles: Adjustable poles for the trek to base camp
‌• Climbing harness: An alpine climbing harness
‌• Carabineers: 4 locking and 2 non locking
‌• Belay / Rappel device: For rappelling or belaying climbers
‌• Helmet: Must fit over a thick hat
‌• Light hiking boots or trekking shoes: For the trek to base camp.
‌• Mountaineering Boots: A double plastic or insulated synthetic boot.
‌• Socks: Minimum 3 pair thick mountaineering socks and 3 pair liner socks
‌• Short Underwear: 1 pair of synthetic short underwear
‌• Long Underwear: 1-2 pair lightweight long underwear pants and shirts. 1 pair of heavy expedition weight long underwear.
‌• Soft Shell Jacket: A hooded jacket
‌• Soft Shell pants: For trekking and climbing
‌• Insulated Jacket: Primaloft or Down
‌• Hard Shell Jacket: To be worn in wet conditions
‌• Hard Shell Pants: To be worn in wet conditions, these pants should have full side zippers.
‌• Headlamp: Bring extra batteries
• Warm Hat: A warm fleece or wool hat.
• Balaclava: to cover your face and neck on windy days.
• Sun hat: A baseball style sun camp.
• Buff: 1-2 of these to wear around your neck & face to block the wind, UV rays, dust.
• Glacier Glasses: wrap around style sunglasses with dark lenses
• Goggles: With dark lenses.
• Soft Shell Gloves: 1 pair
• Shell gloves with insulated liner: 1 pair
• Expedition Backpack: A 65+ liter internal frame back pack.
• Sleeping Bag: Rated to at least -0 °F. Down is preferable over synthetic.
• Compression stuff sacks: for reducing volume for your sleeping bag and down jacket.
• Self Inflating pad: A full length air mattress
• Closed Cell foam pad: Full length is best
• Headlamp: Bring a spare set of batteries
• Cup: 16oz. minimum
• Bowl: ½ liter minimum capacity
• Spoon: Plastic (lexan)
• Sunscreen: 2 tubes, SPF 40 or stronger
• Lipscreen: 2 sticks, SPF 30 or stronger
• Water bottles: 2 bottles with 1 liter capacity each
• Water Purification System: Tablets or Steripen
• Water Bottle Parkas: To keep your water from freezing
• Pee Bottle: 1 liter capacity minimum
• Pee Funnel: For Women
• Knife: Optional
• Toiletry Bag: Toothpaste, Toothbrush, baby wipes, etc.
• Hand Sanitizer: 1 small bottle
• Trash Compactor bags (4): To line stuff sacks and separate gear
• Camera: lightweight with extra batteries
• Travel Clothes: For days in Seattle.
• Small duffel bag: to store items in the hotel
• Small Personal First Aid Kit: Athletic tape, band aids, Ibuprofen, Moleskin, blister care products, personal medications, cough drops.
Medications:
  ‣ Acetazolamide (Diamox) for altitude illness
  ‣ Antibiotics such as Ciprofloxin or Azithromycin for gastro intestinal or respiratory illness
  ‣ Ibuprofen for muscle soreness
  ‣ Pepto Bismol for loose stool
  ‣ Excedrin for headaches
  ‣ Anti-nausea medications.
Climbing Snacks:
  ‣ Electrolyte Replacement Drink Mix: Bring a supply for 4 days such as Nuun.
  ‣ Energy Gel: Single serving gel packs such as GU, Clifshot, Powergel, etc.)
  ‣ Energy Bars: Power bar, Cliff bar, etc.
  ‣ Candy Bars: Snickers, Mars, Twix, Milky Way, etc.
  ‣ Hard Candy: 1 cup
  ‣ Crackers: 1 box

We regularly organize custom programs for private groups. We are happy to accommodate your program dates, as well as other specific requests related to the itinerary, amenities, and group size. Please contact us if you would like to know more about custom programs.

Day 1: Meet in Seattle in the evening, orientation and check equipment, prepare for an early morning drive to Mt. Shuksan.

Day 2: Drive from Seattle to the trailhead. Hike through the old growth forest and alpine meadows to reach camp at the foot of the glacier.

Day 3: Review climbing techniques; go to bed early in preparation for an alpine start.

Day 4: We awake around 2 AM, and depart before dawn climbing up the glaciated slopes to the summit pyramid. At the summit pyramid we take off our crampons and climb the 5th class rock several pitches to the summit. From the summit we have spectacular views of Mt. Baker and the North Cascades. We descend the pyramid and return to camp, packing our things and then hiking down to the trailhead. We drive back to Seattle and conclude the program with a meal in one of Seattle’s many great restaurants.

Mt. Shuksan Climb: $795
Deposit: $300

Balance due 90 days prior to departure

2017 Departures:
July 31 – August 3
August 28 – 31
September 4 – 7
September 18 – 21

‌• Ice Axe: A short ice axe no longer than 60 cm.
‌• Crampons: General mountaineering crampons
‌• Trekking Poles: Adjustable poles for the trek to base camp
‌• Climbing harness: An alpine climbing harness
‌• Carabineers: 4 locking and 2 non locking
‌• Belay / Rappel device: For rappelling or belaying climbers
‌• Helmet: Must fit over a thick hat
‌• Light hiking boots or trekking shoes: For the trek to base camp.
‌• Mountaineering Boots: A double plastic or insulated synthetic boot.
‌• Socks: Minimum 3 pair thick mountaineering socks and 3 pair liner socks
‌• Short Underwear: 1 pair of synthetic short underwear
‌• Long Underwear: 1-2 pair lightweight long underwear pants and shirts. 1 pair of heavy expedition weight long underwear.
‌• Soft Shell Jacket: A hooded jacket
‌• Soft Shell pants: For trekking and climbing
‌• Insulated Jacket: Primaloft or Down
‌• Hard Shell Jacket: To be worn in wet conditions
‌• Hard Shell Pants: To be worn in wet conditions, these pants should have full side zippers.
‌• Headlamp: Bring extra batteries
• Warm Hat: A warm fleece or wool hat.
• Balaclava: to cover your face and neck on windy days.
• Sun hat: A baseball style sun camp.
• Buff: 1-2 of these to wear around your neck & face to block the wind, UV rays, dust.
• Glacier Glasses: wrap around style sunglasses with dark lenses
• Goggles: With dark lenses.
• Soft Shell Gloves: 1 pair
• Shell gloves with insulated liner: 1 pair
• Expedition Backpack: A 65+ liter internal frame back pack.
• Sleeping Bag: Rated to at least -0 °F. Down is preferable over synthetic.
• Compression stuff sacks: for reducing volume for your sleeping bag and down jacket.
• Self Inflating pad: A full length air mattress
• Closed Cell foam pad: Full length is best
• Headlamp: Bring a spare set of batteries
• Cup: 16oz. minimum
• Bowl: ½ liter minimum capacity
• Spoon: Plastic (lexan)
• Sunscreen: 2 tubes, SPF 40 or stronger
• Lipscreen: 2 sticks, SPF 30 or stronger
• Water bottles: 2 bottles with 1 liter capacity each
• Water Purification System: Tablets or Steripen
• Water Bottle Parkas: To keep your water from freezing
• Pee Bottle: 1 liter capacity minimum
• Pee Funnel: For Women
• Knife: Optional
• Toiletry Bag: Toothpaste, Toothbrush, baby wipes, etc.
• Hand Sanitizer: 1 small bottle
• Trash Compactor bags (4): To line stuff sacks and separate gear
• Camera: lightweight with extra batteries
• Travel Clothes: For days in Seattle.
• Small duffel bag: to store items in the hotel
• Small Personal First Aid Kit: Athletic tape, band aids, Ibuprofen, Moleskin, blister care products, personal medications, cough drops.
Medications:
  ‣ Acetazolamide (Diamox) for altitude illness
  ‣ Antibiotics such as Ciprofloxin or Azithromycin for gastro intestinal or respiratory illness
  ‣ Ibuprofen for muscle soreness
  ‣ Pepto Bismol for loose stool
  ‣ Excedrin for headaches
  ‣ Anti-nausea medications.
Climbing Snacks:
  ‣ Electrolyte Replacement Drink Mix: Bring a supply for 4 days such as Nuun.
  ‣ Energy Gel: Single serving gel packs such as GU, Clifshot, Powergel, etc.)
  ‣ Energy Bars: Power bar, Cliff bar, etc.
  ‣ Candy Bars: Snickers, Mars, Twix, Milky Way, etc.
  ‣ Hard Candy: 1 cup
  ‣ Crackers: 1 box

More Climbs