Tag Archive for: Mount Everest

Climbers enjoying a tea break in Kyangjuma

Today our trekking and climbing teams moved up from Namche Bazaar past the Tengboche Monastery to the village of Deboche along the Imja Khola river.  Madison Mountaineering guide Terray Sylvester provides a recap of the day.

Also, be sure to check out Alan Arnette’s interview with Garrett Madison from Namche Bazaar:  https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2022/04/07/everest-2022-interview-with-garrett-madison-from-namche-bazaar/

Hello!  This is Terray calling in for the 2022 Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest expedition!  It’s Thursday, April 7th.

Today we trekked from Namche Bazaar (3440m/11,290ft) to the little village of Deboche (3820m/12,532ft).  We had nice weather along the way with more views of Everest, Ama Dablam, and Lhotse.  We stopped for lunch at a little town called Phungi Thenga.  Then we crossed a suspension bridge across the Dudh Koshi river, which means “Milk River” because of the color of the water from the glacial silt in it.  Then we ascended the long switchbacks up to Tengboche Monastery at about 12,700ft, checked out the monastery and some of the other sites around it and then walked down the last 20 minutes to Deboche.

So we’re about to have dinner here and looking forward to tomorrow which will be a nice day.  We’ll walk through Pangboche and get the blessing of the local Lama there.

We’ll be in touch!

The climbing team at the Panorama Lodge in Namche Bazaar

The climbing team at the Panorama Lodge in Namche Bazaar

Climber David Courtney receiving a blessing before leaving Namche

Climber David Courtney receiving a blessing before leaving Namche

Climber Josh Garrison receiving a blessing before leaving Namche

Climber Josh Garrison receiving a blessing before leaving Namche

Along the trail to Deboche

Along the trail to Deboche

Climber Stephane Mayer visiting Tengboche Monastery with his family

Climber Stephane Mayer visiting Tengboche Monastery with his family


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear Garrett Madison’s daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.

Instagram:

Guide Cacho Beiza leading the group above Namche.

Enjoying an active rest day in Namche Bazaar, the teams hiked up to the Everest View Hotel and enjoyed…  (wait for it)…  some wonderful views of Everest and the surrounding peaks!  Madison Mountaineering guide Terray Sylvester provides a recap of the day:

Hello!  This is Terray calling in for the 2022 Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest expedition!  It’s Wednesday, April 6th.  Today our trekkers and climbers hiked up to the Everest View Hotel, about 1,000ft above Namche Bazaar.  Along the way we had great views of Ama Dablam, Lhotse, and Everest in the distance – just cystal clear skies.  Then the clouds came in and we hiked back down to Namche.  Some of us took a detour thru Khumjung (3790m/12,430ft) where they saw what is purported to be a skull of a yeti in a museum and a few others of us when and visited a new Sherpa cultural museum here in Namche with some really interesting history and artifacts.

Tomorrow we’ll continue on up past Tengboche Monastery to Deboche (3820m/12,532ft) and we’re looking forward to that hike.  There should be more great views along the way!

So, all is well here and we’ll be in touch.

Ama Dablam in the distance.

Ama Dablam in the distance.

Approaching the Everest View Hotel with Thamserku in the distance.

Approaching the Everest View Hotel with Thamserku in the distance.

Garrett with climbers Sara Safari and Josh Garrison

Garrett with climbers Sara Safari and Josh Garrison


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear Garrett Madison’s daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.

Instagram:

Everest team on the trek to base camp

Today the climbing and trekking team continued the trek and moved from Phakding up to the “capital of the Khumbu” Namche Bazaar.  Madison Mountaineering guide Terray Sylvester provides a recap of the day:

Hello!  This is Terray calling in for the 2022 Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest expedition!  It’s Tuesday, April 5th.  Today we all moved from Phakding up to Namche.  We actually had beautiful weather yet again!  The Khumbu Valley is really in bloom right now; lots of flowing trees, rhododendron, flowers along side the trail which made for a really pretty hike.

We made it to Namche Bazaar about 2 o’clock, maybe 2 or 3 in the afternoon.  Some folks headed out to enjoy town a litte bit – lots of good bakeries and cafes and scenery, of course.  Then we had a good dinner and tasty welcome carrot cake here at the Panorama Lodge in Namche.  We’re wrapping up the evening and heading to bed.

Tomorrow we’ll have an active rest day and hike up to the Everest View Hotel.  But we’ll be in touch with a dispatch tomorrow too.

Alright, we’ll be in touch!


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear Garrett Madison’s daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.

Instagram:

Flying to Lukla

The trekking has started!  The weather Gods permitted the whole team to fly to the mountain village of Lukla (2850m/9,350ft) and complete the first day of trekking towards Everest Base Camp.  Madison Mountaineering guide Terray Sylvester provides a recap of the day:

Hello!  This is Terray calling in for the 2022 Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest expedition!  It’s Monday, April 4th.  Today we flew from Kathmandu to Lukla.  We had good weather for our flights which was nice because it’s been a little rainy and hazy lately and there was some concern that we would not be able to fly up to Lukla.

Then we trekked on to Phakding (2640m/8,661ft).  So we’re here tonight, just starting dinner, and looking forward to our trek up to Namche (3450m/11,319ft) tomorrow.  The weather is nice, warm, a little cloudy, but dry!

We’ll be in touch!

Ready to fly to Lukla!

Ready to fly to Lukla!

Trekking to Phakding

Trekking to Phakding

Mani Stones

Mani Stones

Taking a break on the trek to Phakding

Taking a break on the trek to Phakding


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear Garrett Madison’s daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.

Instagram:

– our Garmin inReach Mini powered real-time tracking map:

Pashupatinath Temple

Today the climbing and trekking teams enjoy a wonderful tour of some of the major sites of Kathmandu and are getting ready to fly up to the mountain village of Luka to begin the trek to Everest base camp tomorrow.  Madison Mountaineering guide Terray Sylvester provides a recap of the day:

Hello!  This is Terray calling in for the 2022 Madison Mountaineering Mount Everest expedition!  It’s April 3rd.  Today our climbing and trekking teams enjoyed a tour around two of Kathmandu’s seven UNESCO World Heritage Sites.  We went to Pashupatinath Temple, which is the most famous Hindu temple here in the city and we went to the famous Boudhanath Stupa, which is one of the world’s largest Buddist stupas.

Tomorrow our plan is to fly to Lukla so we can begin our trek up to Everest Base Camp.  That’s an exciting day and so far the weather forecast looks good!  So if all goes as planned, our fixed-winged flights will depart Kathmandu early in the morning and will be in Lukla in time for breakfast.

So all is well here in Nepal and we’ll be in touch!

A stone carving at Pashupatinath Temple

A stone carving at Pashupatinath Temple

Trekker Ryan S. visiting a Buddhist Temple in Boudha

Trekker Ryan S. visiting a Buddhist Temple in Boudha

Butter lamps at Boudhanath Stupa

Butter lamps at Boudhanath Stupa

Pashupatinath Temple

Pashupatinath Temple

Boudhanath Stupa

Boudhanath Stupa


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear Garrett Madison’s daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.

Instagram:

– our Garmin inReach Mini powered real-time tracking map:

Team Welcome Dinner in Kathamandu

Welcome to Kathmandu!  The Madison Mountaineering Everest 2022 team has arrived in Kathmandu to kick off the Everest expedition and base camp trek.  Expedition leader, Garrett Madison, provided this update:

Hello!  This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest expedition team!  Today is April 2nd and all of our members are here now in Kathamandu.  We just finished our gear checks today and had a nice team dinner and we’re looking forward to a city tour tomorrow.  Everyone’s doing well and we’re happy to be here in Nepal and excited to get the adventure underway.

Thanks and we’ll check in soon!

Sara S. chatting with Madison Mountaineering guide Cacho Beiza at the gear check

Sara S. chatting with Madison Mountaineering guide Cacho Beiza at the gear check

Climber Sara S. very excited about all the duffels and to be in Kathmandu!!

Climber Sara S. very excited about all the duffels and being in Kathmandu!!


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow our teams as they make their attempts on the world’s most formidable mountains on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear Garrett Madison’s daily audio expedition updates on select expeditions.  Just say, “Alexa, play my Madison Mountaineering flash briefing.

Instagram:

– our Garmin inReach Mini powered real-time tracking map:

Recent photo of the serac approximately 1 kilometer above the central portion of the Khumbu Icefall (📸: Andrezj Bargiel)

We’ve wrapped up our Everest expedition for the 2019 autumn season, and everyone is heading home. There were no summits of Everest this season by our team or any of the teams attempting the peak. We had the good fortune to connect with some of the world’s best high-altitude climbers & skiers alongside us this season. However, the conditions were such that we’ve all accepted the Mountain was not in a safe enough condition to make a reasonable attempt. Among others, I had the pleasure of spending time this season with Kilian Jornet, who is likely the world’s best high altitude climber, Andrezj Bargiel, who is likely the world’s best high altitude skier, and Tim Emmett who is one of the world’s best all-around climbers.

This ‘post-monsoon’ autumn season on 8000m peaks was a tough one. The monsoon came late and was very heavy, significant amounts of snowfall continued to accumulate daily throughout the time we were on Everest, rather than the typically drier weather of September.

Despite the unusually inclement weather making the overall conditions more challenging, after establishing the route to Camp 1 we discovered a large Serac (ice cliff) that was precariously hanging above the icefall route, on the way from base camp to camp 1. After studying the Serac by drone footage, we determined that when this Serac fell it would obliterate a large portion of the route, a wide area of the route was in danger with no way to avoid this section. None of the teams present, except for Kilian, were willing to take the risk of climbing through this section. Kilian can move very quickly and independently, so he could justify going through this area.

We continued to wait patiently in base camp for the Serac to fall, thereby making the route safe & reasonable for us. However, that day never came. Although the Serac looked more precarious each day, it never broke off while we waited. Eventually, all of the teams decided that they were running out of time and had to call off their expedition plans. Kilian did make one great attempt and reached 8300m on Everest before deciding the deep and unstable snow was too risky for an avalanche. His recap is here: https://www.instagram.com/p/B3RjuN6nHZV/

I stayed with our Nepal team and held out hope that the Serac would fall and allow us to climb until October 6th, when it became apparent that we were out of time. Even if the Serac came down the next day, it would take us more than two weeks to mobilize our team and make an attempt under best-case circumstances, assuming perfect weather, route conditions, climber health and acclimatization, etc., an additional two weeks past our scheduled end date for the expedition.

Everest felt like a totally different mountain this autumn as compared to my prior 12 spring Everest expeditions, due to the continued inclement weather and substantial buildup of new snow. In spring typically the weather is much nicer, and the route conditions are relatively dry, allowing for straightforward climbing.

I’m happy to say that nobody had mixed emotions about climbing under the Serac. It was plain to all of us (except Kilian) that the risk to human life was too high for us, given the precarious position of this ice cliff. Independent, professional climbers can afford, if they choose, to take high risks. However, as a professional mountain guide & expedition leader, I cannot subject my clients and staff to such risks. I appreciate how amenable our clients were in their understanding and agreement in this decision.

We came to the mountain, having prepared ourselves to make an attempt at the summit, should the opportunity present itself. However, many factors are out of our control and must all must align for us to even have a shot at the summit. This season the mountain did not present a reasonable set of conditions for us to make a viable attempt. That’s an inherent part of mountaineering, knowing that the summit is not guaranteed. I’m glad we all enjoyed our time together on this journey in the Himalayas experiencing the mountain, the Sherpa culture, and the richness of Nepal!  A special thank you to Joe Vernachio and everyone at Mountain Hardwear!

I look forward to my next opportunity on Everest in spring 2020!

Team in Pheriche (📸: Francois Lebeau / Louder than 11)

Autumn Everest Base Camp

Due to the unsafe route conditions in the Khumbu Icefall, expedition leader, Garrett Madison, has today called off the expedition and has started making the preparations to pack up and head home.  Many thanks to our entire Nepal-based staff and to our climbers and trekkers – and good luck to Kristin who is making her attempt on Ama Dablam:

Hello this is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Autumn Everest Expedition 2019.

 

Well, The Serac is still up there and despite the decent weather, we are going to call off the Everest Expedition.  Even if The Serac came down, our climbers were able to return to base camp in a few days, and we had perfect weather and route conditions to climb, it would take us over two weeks beyond our orginial end date to climb the mountain.  So, we are going to conclude the dispatches for the expedition.

 

Everyone is safely off the mountain at this time and we’re looking forward to Everest Spring 2020!  All the other teams have gone home, climbers are off the mountain and I’m the last one here.  Looking forward to great season next spring.  Thanks!

Kristin and Aang Phurba approaching Ama Dablam

Autumn Everest Base Camp


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow the team as they trek to Everest Base Camp and then make their attempt to summit the world’s highest mountain on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear Garrett Madison’s daily audio expedition updates

Instagram:

– our Garmin inReach Mini powered real-time tracking map:

The Serac (circled) is still hanging on up there - seems to be leaning more every day but just hasn’t fallen yet

Expedition leader, Garrett Madison, reports that the great weather is continuing at Everest base camp:

Hello!  This is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Autumn Everest Expedition here in Nepal.  Today is October 5th.  Great day here at Everest base camp — sunny day, great views, nice people around.

 

The Serac is still up there so we’re not heading up the mountian anytime soon.  Everyone’s doing well and we’ll check in soon.  Thanks.


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow the team as they trek to Everest Base Camp and then make their attempt to summit the world’s highest mountain on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear Garrett Madison’s daily audio expedition updates

Instagram:

– our Garmin inReach Mini powered real-time tracking map:

Everest pokes its head out

Expedition leader, Garrett Madison, and team are still hanging tight at Everest Base Camp, waiting to see who will blink first, the team or the massive ice serac that continues to precariously hang over the Khumbu Icefall:

Hello, this is Garrett calling in for the Madison Mountaineering Autumn Everest Expedtion.  Today is October 4th.  It’s a beautiful day here in Everest base camp – the Sun is out!

 

We have our fingers crossed that the serac comes down and we can give it a climb.  But, for the time being, we are just hanging tight so we don’t feel that it is safe to climb up with the serac looming over the Icefall.

 

Everyone’s doing well and a beautiful day here in Nepal.  We are just thankful to be enjoying this great weather.  We’ll check-in soon.  Thanks!

The sun rises above Everest base camp

The sun rises above Everest base camp

Everest pokes its head out


In addition to these expedition dispatches, you can also follow the team as they trek to Everest Base Camp and then make their attempt to summit the world’s highest mountain on:

Amazon Alexa devices with the Madison Mountaineering Flash Briefing skill:

  • Enable the skill and add to your flash briefing to hear Garrett Madison’s daily audio expedition updates

Instagram:

– our Garmin inReach Mini powered real-time tracking map: