Tag: Himalaya

Our climbers and trekkers have all made it safely from Kathmandu to Tenzing Hillary Airport in Lukla. From here we passed through several Sherpa villages, and entered the beautiful Sagarmatha (Everest) National Park. After crossing the river by suspension bridge, we arrived in the village of Phakding. After a good nights sleep we continued trekking along the scenic Dudh Kosi River through the village of Monjo, then up the steep hill to Namche Bazaar. Currently we are spending our second night in our comfortable lodge acclimatizing and enjoying the sights, cafes and tasty pastries in Namche. This afternoon we saw our first view of Mount Everest!

Follow us on social media @MadisonMtng on InstagramFacebook, and Twitter. We love to hear from you 🙂

Onward and upward!

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Prayer wheel in Kathmandu 

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Early morning flight from Kathmandu to Lukla

Tenzing Hillary Airport

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Tenzing Hillary Airport

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Last chance for Starbucks 🙂 

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Prayer wheel near Lukla

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2017 Mount Everest climbing and trekking team leaving Lukla 

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Relaxing at a local tea house

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Geoff and John

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Amazing views on the trek to Namche

Madison Mountaineering’s 2017 Himalayan expedition team of Everest & Lhotse climbers have arrived from around the world. We are now  in the final stages of logistical preparation before our exciting flight to Lukla. After our short flight tomorrow from Kathmandu to Lukla, we will begin the journey toward Mount Everest, known by the locals as Sagarmāthā. Mount Everest is earth’s highest mountain at 8,848m (29,035ft) above sea level. Tonight our team of trekkers and climbers will enjoy the comforts of the city before we take off early tomorrow morning. Here we go!

Expedition dispatches will be posted here as frequently as possible. Follow us on social media @MadisonMtng on InstagramFacebook, and Twitter!!

Below are some photos of our city tour today around Kathmandu.

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2017 Himalayan

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Local Nepal street art

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Monkey Temple 

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Money Temple

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Received a departing blessing for a safe passage through the Himalaya.

2017 Himalayan

Our 2017 Everest expedition is preparing to launch! This March we will lead a group of climbers and trekkers from around the world as we journey through the Khumbu Valley toward Mount Everest base camp. If you would like to join our team of trekkers and spend a night at base camp please contact us here. To higher places!

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2017 Everest

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2017 Everest

Our climbing team had a wonderful ascent of Haba ‘Snow Mountain’ above the village of Haba in the Yunnan province of China. The climb was only 3 days followed by some sight seeing in the historical city of Lijiang. The summit of Haba is 5,396m or nearly 18,000′ so this was not a small climb by any means!

We hiked from the village of Haba on our first day of the trip through the dense forest and along mountain streams then came to grassy meadows as we approached our base camp. By the afternoon we reached our camp and had a glimpse of the peak.

On summit day we awoke at 3 AM and departed camp around 4 AM for the summit. We climbed up the rocky slopes and gained the glacier just as the sun began to rise, where we roped up and donned crampons. We then climbed the snow and ice slopes  and reached the top at 10:30 AM. We saw only a few other climbers on our ascent, even though it was a holiday weekend in China. At the summit we found the peak marker and savored the moment before heading down to our camp. The next day we hiked down through the lush forest back to the village of Haba, then drove along the scenic ‘Tiger leaping gorge’ back to Lijiang, where we visited the beautiful ‘old town’ that dates back to the 1300’s and enjoyed a traditional Chinese dinner typical of the Yunnan province. It’s been a great adventure with climbers Scott, Florian, Lloyd and Rafael!

To higher places!

Garrett Madison

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To view our climbing team’s exact route to the summit you can view our RainOn mapping platform here!

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Yesterday after meeting up in Shanghai, Garrett climbers flew to Lijiang, a beautiful city in the Yunnan province on the way to Haba Xueshan. Today our team is departing Lijiang and driving to Haba, to organize equipment and prepare for the trek to Haba Xueshan base camp! At an elevation of 17,703ft (5,396m), Haba Xueshan is a beautiful glaciated peak in southern China. Go team!
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Throughout this expedition you can view our team’s location and progress by viewing our RainOn mapping platform here!
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Garrett & team of climbers from Shanghai setting off for Haba.
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Yangtze River
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Team passing by the famous Hu  Tiao Cha ‘Tiger Leaping Gorge’ and Yangtze River located between the Haba Snow Mountain and the Yulong Snow Mountain. With a vertical drop of 3,800 meters the view to the bottom of the Tiger Leaping Gorge is nearly twice as high as the Grand Canyon!
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Fried snakes or sea horses anyone?
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Local woman in traditional dress in Haba.
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The Madison Mountaineering Spring 2016 Everest trekking season has officially launched! Today our second trekking team of the season is arriving in the capital city of Kathmandu, Nepal. Trekking through the Khumbu Valley to Everest base camp is a life changing experience for many, as the spectacular mountain scenery integrated with Sherpa culture and Buddhist religion makes for a truly engaging combination. Our team’s will follow the same route to Base Camp as the Everest climbers and recount the historical ascents with the climbers who share our lodges along the way.

Beautiful photos taken by Fred Crosetto below from our first Spring 2016 Everest Trek! Enjoy 🙂

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Madison Mountaineering climbers around the world are gearing up for Everest 2016! In a few short weeks we will converge in Kathmandu, Nepal and begin the journey to Mount Everest, known by the locals as Sagarmāthā. Mount Everest is Earth’s highest mountain at 8,848m (29,035ft) above sea level. Here in Seattle,WA our team is actively preparing mountaineering gear, food supplies, and taking care of other important expedition logistics before our departure. We look forward to returning to Nepal to witness and share with you the growth and progress that has been made since last year’s season ending earthquake.

Expedition dispatches will be posted here as frequently as possible. Also follow us @MadisonMtng on Twitter , Instagram , and  Facebook.

Stay tuned!  🙂

Interesting Everest Fact: The international border between Tibet and Nepal runs across Everest’s precise summit point. 

Base Camp Prayer Flags

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The sixth highest peak on Earth, Cho Oyu is a great introduction to climbing above 8000 meters, and excellent preparation for Everest. Cho Oyu is located along the Nepal / Tibet border and we access the mountain from the Tibetan (Northern) side. The route we climb (West Face) is relatively moderate, with only a few sections of steep rock or ice. After the 2 day trek to base camp we arrive in our very comfortable camp, complete with a large dining tent, a state of the art communications tent, and top of the line personal and shower tents. From here we begin our acclimatization process, and make two rotations up the mountain to our higher camps before our summit attempt. Joining us will be our top climbing Sherpas who also frequently climb with us on Everest, and assist in establishing the route and setting our camps. Many of these Sherpas will also climb with us to the summit, where the view of Everest, Lhotse, and other 8000 meter peak is spectacular! Join us for this wonderful experience, an expedition climb of an 8000-meter peak in style!

Itinerary

Day 1: Arrive in Kathmandu. You will be picked up at the airport and driven to the Yak & Yeti hotel. We will have a group welcome dinner and orientation.

Day 2: Equipment check, then city tour of Kathmandu.

Day 3: Drive to Zhangmu.

Day 4: Drive to Nylam.

Day 5: Rest and acclimatize in Nylam.

Day 6: Drive to the small village of Tingri. We go for a short acclimatization hike and have a spectacular view of Cho Oyu, as well as Everest from the Northern side.

Day 7: Drive to trail head (initial base camp), camp and organize gear.

Day 8: If needed we rest here or go for acclimatization hikes.

Day 9: Today we hike to the intermediate camp.

Day 10: Trek to base camp.

Day 11: Rest and organize gear in base camp.

Day 12-14: Review technical climbing skills and acclimatize with short hikes.

Days 15-16: First rotation to Camp 1 and near Camp 2.

Days 17-19: Rest in base camp. Prepare for next rotation.

Day 20-22: Second rotation to Camps 1 and 2.

Day 23-25: Rest in base camp and evaluate weather conditions.

Day 26-30: Summit rotation.

Days 31-35: Extra days in case of bad weather, etc. Organize gear in base camp and prepare to trek out.

Day 36: Trek to trail head and drive to Tingri.

Day 37: Drive from Tingri to Kathmandu.

Day 38: Enjoy the restaurants and shops in Kathmandu.

Day 39: Depart Nepal for country of residence.

Day 40: Arrive home.

Dates and Costs

September 1- October 10, 2017
Cost: $23,950
Deposit: $6,000

Cost Includes:
• Airport pickup upon arrival in Kathmandu
• Accommodations at the Yak & Yeti hotel for 2 nights before and 2 nights after the expedition.
• All ground transport during the expedition.
• All accommodations during the drive to base camp.
• All group gear such as tents, cooking equipment, climbing gear.
• Oxygen (3 bottles), mask, regulator.
• Communications equipment (VHF base station, hand held radios, satellite internet access -500MB of data free, this is a $3500 value not counting hardware costs and set up fees)
• All food and meals during the expedition outside of Kathmandu.
• All climbing permits and administration expenses owed to China.
• Western guide, support staff including climbing Sherpas, cooks, porters.

Not Included:
• Wire transfer fee
• Airfare to Nepal
• Meals in Nepal
• All expenses incurred for an early departure from the expedition.
• Medical and evacuation insurance, trip cancellation insurance.
• Personal items (see gear list)

Gear List

Ice Axe: General mountaineering tool (65cm)
Crampons: General mountaineering crampons
Climbing Helmet: Must be able to fit over your ski hat
Ascender: 1 right or left hand ascender (Petzel brand is best)
Alpine Climbing Harness: A mountaineering harness, with adjustable leg loops. Not a rock climbing “sport” harness.
Carabineers: 3 locking and 3 regular
Rappel device: ATC or figure 8
Mountaineering boots: Olympus Mons, Millet, etc.
Hiking shoes: comfortable boots or shoes for the trek to base camp.
Camp boots: comfortable boots for wearing in camp.
Booties: Optional, down is best.
Wool or synthetic socks: 6 pair
Liner socks: 3 pair
Synthetic Short underwear: A non cotton style underwear.
Lightweight Long Underwear: 2-3 pair long sleeve shirt and long pants
Heavyweight long underwear: 1 pair
Short Sleeve Synthetic Shirt: 1-2 pair
Lightweight Nylon Pants: 1-2 pair
Soft Shell jacket: With or without hood
Soft Shell Pants: With accessory side pockets
Hard Shell Jacket with hood: A waterproof and breathable shell jacket
Hard Shell Pants: Waterproof and breathable shell pants
Down Parka with hood: This “puffy” jacket we wear when taking breaks when climbing below Camp 3.
Insulated synthetic Pants: These are nice to have when climbing below Camp 3.
Down Suit: Feathered Friends, Sherpa, North Face, Mountain Hardwear, etc. We wear this above Camp 3.
Synthetic or wool hat (ski hat).
Balaclava: to protect your neck and face in high winds.
Baseball Cap or other sun hat: To shade your face / neck from the sun on a hot day.
Bandana or Buff: To protect your neck / face from the sun.
Glacier glasses: Full protection with side covers or wrap around.
Ski goggles: To be worn on summit day in the event of high winds.
Lightweight synthetic liner gloves: For wearing on a hot day.
Soft shell gloves: To wear for moderate cold / wind.
Shell glove with insulated liner: To wear for severe cold / strong wind.
Expedition Mitts: Large enough to fit a liner glove inside.
Expedition Backpack: 65L pack should be large enough.
Trekking Backpack: To carry on the trek to base camp. Simple and light.
Sleeping Bag (for high camps): Rated to at least -40°F. Goose down or synthetic.
Sleeping Bag (for base camp): rated to at least -20°F.
Compression stuff sacks: For reducing volume of the sleeping bag, down parka, etc., in your pack.
Self inflating sleeping pad (1 for base camp and 1 for high camps): Full length is preferred.
Closed cell foam pad: To be used in conjunction with the inflating pad for warmth and comfort when sleeping.
Trekking poles: Adjustable
Cup: A plastic 16 oz. minimum cup or mug
Bowl: A plastic bowl for eating dinner or breakfast out of
Spoon: Plastic spoon (lexan)
Headlamp: With 2 extra sets of new batteries
Sunscreen: SPF 50 or better
Lip screen: SPF 30 or better (2 sticks).
Water bottles: 2 or 3 wide mouth bottles with 1 liter capacity.
Water bottle parkas (2): fully insulated with zip opening.
Thermos: 1 liter
Pee bottle: 1 liter minimum bottle for convenience at night in the tent.
Toiletry bag: Include toilet paper and hand sanitizer and small towel
Hand warmers & toe warmers: 3 sets of each. Or use Hot Tronics for food warmer system.
Knife or multi tool (optional).
Trash compactor bags: to line back pack and stuff sacks in the event of rain or wet snow is falling on us.
Camera: bring extra batteries and memory cards.
Travel Clothes: For days in Kathmandu.
Duffel bags (2) with locks: To transport equipment.
Base Camp Items: Kindle, Ipad, smart phone, etc.
Snack food: Please bring a few days of your favorite climbing snack food such as bars, gels, nuts, beef jerky, etc. A variety of salty and sweet is good.
Small personal first aid kit: Include athletic tape, band aids, Ibuprofen, blister care, personal medications, etc.
Medications and Prescriptions: Bring antibiotics (Azithromycin, etc.), and altitude medicine such as Diamox and dexamethasone.

Photo Credit this page: Ben Jones

Day 1: Arrive in Kathmandu. You will be picked up at the airport and driven to the Yak & Yeti hotel. We will have a group welcome dinner and orientation.

Day 2: Equipment check, then city tour of Kathmandu.

Day 3: Drive to Zhangmu.

Day 4: Drive to Nylam.

Day 5: Rest and acclimatize in Nylam.

Day 6: Drive to the small village of Tingri. We go for a short acclimatization hike and have a spectacular view of Cho Oyu, as well as Everest from the Northern side.

Day 7: Drive to trail head (initial base camp), camp and organize gear.

Day 8: If needed we rest here or go for acclimatization hikes.

Day 9: Today we hike to the intermediate camp.

Day 10: Trek to base camp.

Day 11: Rest and organize gear in base camp.

Day 12-14: Review technical climbing skills and acclimatize with short hikes.

Days 15-16: First rotation to Camp 1 and near Camp 2.

Days 17-19: Rest in base camp. Prepare for next rotation.

Day 20-22: Second rotation to Camps 1 and 2.

Day 23-25: Rest in base camp and evaluate weather conditions.

Day 26-30: Summit rotation.

Days 31-35: Extra days in case of bad weather, etc. Organize gear in base camp and prepare to trek out.

Day 36: Trek to trail head and drive to Tingri.

Day 37: Drive from Tingri to Kathmandu.

Day 38: Enjoy the restaurants and shops in Kathmandu.

Day 39: Depart Nepal for country of residence.

Day 40: Arrive home.

September 1- October 10, 2018
Cost: $23,950
Deposit: $6,000

Cost Includes:
• Airport pickup upon arrival in Kathmandu
• Accommodations at the Yak & Yeti hotel for 2 nights before and 2 nights after the expedition.
• All ground transport during the expedition.
• All accommodations during the drive to base camp.
• All group gear such as tents, cooking equipment, climbing gear.
• Oxygen (3 bottles), mask, regulator.
• Communications equipment (VHF base station, hand held radios, satellite internet access -500MB of data free, this is a $3500 value not counting hardware costs and set up fees)
• All food and meals during the expedition outside of Kathmandu.
• All climbing permits and administration expenses owed to China.
• Western guide, support staff including climbing Sherpas, cooks, porters.

Not Included:
• Wire transfer fee
• Airfare to Nepal
• Meals in Nepal
• All expenses incurred for an early departure from the expedition.
• Medical and evacuation insurance, trip cancellation insurance.
• Personal items (see gear list)

Ice Axe: General mountaineering tool (65cm)
Crampons: General mountaineering crampons
Climbing Helmet: Must be able to fit over your ski hat
Ascender: 1 right or left hand ascender (Petzel brand is best)
Alpine Climbing Harness: A mountaineering harness, with adjustable leg loops. Not a rock climbing “sport” harness.
Carabineers: 3 locking and 3 regular
Rappel device: ATC or figure 8
Mountaineering boots: Olympus Mons, Millet, etc.
Hiking shoes: comfortable boots or shoes for the trek to base camp.
Camp boots: comfortable boots for wearing in camp.
Booties: Optional, down is best.
Wool or synthetic socks: 6 pair
Liner socks: 3 pair
Synthetic Short underwear: A non cotton style underwear.
Lightweight Long Underwear: 2-3 pair long sleeve shirt and long pants
Heavyweight long underwear: 1 pair
Short Sleeve Synthetic Shirt: 1-2 pair
Lightweight Nylon Pants: 1-2 pair
Soft Shell jacket: With or without hood
Soft Shell Pants: With accessory side pockets
Hard Shell Jacket with hood: A waterproof and breathable shell jacket
Hard Shell Pants: Waterproof and breathable shell pants
Down Parka with hood: This “puffy” jacket we wear when taking breaks when climbing below Camp 3.
Insulated synthetic Pants: These are nice to have when climbing below Camp 3.
Down Suit: Feathered Friends, Sherpa, North Face, Mountain Hardwear, etc. We wear this above Camp 3.
Synthetic or wool hat (ski hat).
Balaclava: to protect your neck and face in high winds.
Baseball Cap or other sun hat: To shade your face / neck from the sun on a hot day.
Bandana or Buff: To protect your neck / face from the sun.
Glacier glasses: Full protection with side covers or wrap around.
Ski goggles: To be worn on summit day in the event of high winds.
Lightweight synthetic liner gloves: For wearing on a hot day.
Soft shell gloves: To wear for moderate cold / wind.
Shell glove with insulated liner: To wear for severe cold / strong wind.
Expedition Mitts: Large enough to fit a liner glove inside.
Expedition Backpack: 65L pack should be large enough.
Trekking Backpack: To carry on the trek to base camp. Simple and light.
Sleeping Bag (for high camps): Rated to at least -40°F. Goose down or synthetic.
Sleeping Bag (for base camp): rated to at least -20°F.
Compression stuff sacks: For reducing volume of the sleeping bag, down parka, etc., in your pack.
Self inflating sleeping pad (1 for base camp and 1 for high camps): Full length is preferred.
Closed cell foam pad: To be used in conjunction with the inflating pad for warmth and comfort when sleeping.
Trekking poles: Adjustable
Cup: A plastic 16 oz. minimum cup or mug
Bowl: A plastic bowl for eating dinner or breakfast out of
Spoon: Plastic spoon (lexan)
Headlamp: With 2 extra sets of new batteries
Sunscreen: SPF 50 or better
Lip screen: SPF 30 or better (2 sticks).
Water bottles: 2 or 3 wide mouth bottles with 1 liter capacity.
Water bottle parkas (2): fully insulated with zip opening.
Thermos: 1 liter
Pee bottle: 1 liter minimum bottle for convenience at night in the tent.
Toiletry bag: Include toilet paper and hand sanitizer and small towel
Hand warmers & toe warmers: 3 sets of each. Or use Hot Tronics for food warmer system.
Knife or multi tool (optional).
Trash compactor bags: to line back pack and stuff sacks in the event of rain or wet snow is falling on us.
Camera: bring extra batteries and memory cards.
Travel Clothes: For days in Kathmandu.
Duffel bags (2) with locks: To transport equipment.
Base Camp Items: Kindle, Ipad, smart phone, etc.
Snack food: Please bring a few days of your favorite climbing snack food such as bars, gels, nuts, beef jerky, etc. A variety of salty and sweet is good.
Small personal first aid kit: Include athletic tape, band aids, Ibuprofen, blister care, personal medications, etc.
Medications and Prescriptions: Bring antibiotics (Azithromycin, etc.), and altitude medicine such as Diamox and dexamethasone.

More Climbs

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Trekking through the Khumbu Valley to Everest base camp is a life changing experience for many, as the spectacular mountain scenery integrated with Sherpa culture and Buddhist religion makes for a truly engaging combination. We follow the same route to Base Camp as the Everest climbers and recount the historical ascents with the climbers who share our lodges along the way. We have the option to climb Island Peak, a beautiful glaciated climb at 20,350’. This is a great introduction to Himalayan climbing, as the terrain and climbing techniques resemble that of the nearby peaks of Everest and Lhotse.

Itinerary

Day 1: Depart country of residence.

Day 2: Transit day

Day 3: Arrive in Kathmandu. We will pick you up at the airport and take you to the Yak & Yeti hotel. This is historically the ‘climbers hotel’ where many expeditions have stayed over the years. We enjoy a welcome dinner with the team.

Day 4: City tour of Kathmandu, we visit the Monkey Temple, Boudhanath (one of the holiest Buddhist sites in Kathmandu), Pashupatinath, and the Swayambhunath. After the tour we have dinner, then prepare for an early morning flight to Lukla.

Day 5: We fly by fixed wing aircraft into Lukla, and begin our trek! We pass through several Sherpa villages, and enter the Sagarmatha (Everest) National Park. After crossing the river by suspension bridge, we arrive in the village of Phakding.

Day 6: We continue trekking along the Dudh Kosi River through the village of Monjo, then up the hill to Namche Bazaar. Here we will spend 2 nights in our comfortable lodge acclimatizing and enjoying the sights and cafes in Namche.

Day 7: We go for an acclimatization hike and return to our lodge to rest and prepare for the next day of trekking.

Day 8: After breakfast we head out of Namche and traverse the magnificent valley towards Tengboche. Here we have spectacular views of Everest, Lhotse, and Ama Dablam for the first time. We arrive in Tengboche and tour the famous Tengboche Monastery, and then continue to Debuche where we spend the night in the Rivendell lodge.

Day 9: Depart Debuche and trek through the rhododendron forest then cross the river and hike up the short hill to Pangboche. Here we visit with Lama Geshe, the high lama of the Khumbu Valley, who many climbers visit for blessings before heading to climb peaks such as Everest, Lhotse, or Island Peak. We continue up the valley to Dingboche to stay this evening.

Day 10: Today we do an acclimatization hike above Dingboche to gain spectacular views of Cho Oyu, Makalu, and Lhotse, then return to our lodge in Dingboche to spend the night.

Day 11: After breakfast we trek onward past Thugla and arrive in Lobuche, the highest yak grazing ground in the Khumbu Valley. We overnight in Lobuche.

Day 12: Trek to Gorak Shep. After checking into our lodge and having lunch, we hike up nearby Kala Patthar for an amazing view of Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, and the other surrounding peaks. We return to Gorak Shep for dinner.

Day 13: We trek to Everest base camp and visit one of the climbing team camps that are in operation for the season. After a few photos of the Khumbu Icefall we return to Gorak Shep to spend the night.

Day 14: Today we descend down the valley to Debuche where we are acquainted with our friends in the Rivendell lodge.

Day 15: From Debuche we trek to Namche, where we enjoy the many cafes and shops of the “capital of the Khumbu.”

Day 16: Trek to Lukla and spend our final night in the mountains.

Day 17. Fly to Kathmandu check into the Yak & Yeti hotel.

Day 18: Extra day for touring Kathmandu, visit shops and restaurants.

Day 19: Depart Kathmandu for home.

Day 20: Arrive in country of residence

Dates and Costs

Cost: $4,600

2017
October 7 – 26
*Arrive in Kathmandu Oct. 9

2017
March 31 – April 19
October 7 – 26

Costs Include:
• Accommodations at the Yak & Yeti hotel for two nights before and two nights after the trek
• Airport pick up upon arrival
• Welcome dinner in Kathmandu
• All in country flights to Lukla
• All lodging while trekking
• All meals while trekking
• Permits and Park entrance fees
• American guide, Sherpa guide, Nepali staff to carry loads, etc.

Costs Do Not Include:
• Personal items (see Equipment list)
• Wire transfer fee
• Meals in Kathmandu
• Any bottled beverages while trekking
• Option to upgrade to single room
• Cost for helicopter transport
• Any costs as the result of an early departure from the program

Gear List

Hiking shoes: comfortable boots or shoes for the trek to base camp.
Wool or synthetic socks: 3 pair
Liner socks: 3 pair
Synthetic Short underwear: A non cotton style underwear.
Lightweight Long Underwear: 1-2 pair longsleve shirt and long pants
Heavyweight long underwear: 1 pair
Short Sleeve Synthetic Shirt: 1-2 pair
Lightweight Nylon Pants: 1-2 pair
Soft Shell jacket: To be worn over other layers
Hard Shell Jacket with hood: A waterproof and breathable shell jacket
Hard Shell Pants: Waterproof and breathable shell pants
Insulated Jacket: Down or Primaloft
Synthetic or wool hat (ski hat).
Baseball Cap or other sun hat: To shade your face / neck from the sun on a hot day.
Bandana or Buff: To protect your neck / face from the sun.
Glacier glasses: Full protection with side covers or wrap around.
Lightweight synthetic liner gloves: For wearing on a hot day.
Soft shell gloves: To wear for moderate cold / wind.
Trekking Backpack: To carry on the trek to base camp. Simple and light.
Sleeping Bag: rated to at least -20°F.
Compression stuff sacks: For reducing volume of the sleeping bag, down parka, etc., in your pack.
Trekking poles: Adjustable
Headlamp: With extra batteries
Sunscreen: SPF 40 or better
Lipscreen: SPF 40 or better (2 sticks).
Water bottles: 2 wide mouth bottles with 1 liter capacity.
Pee bottle: 1 liter minimum bottle for convenience at night in the tent.
Toiletry bag: Include toilet paper and hand sanitizer and small towel.
Knife or multi tool (optional).
Trash compactor bags: to line back pack and stuff sacks in the event of rain or wet snow is falling on us.
Camera: bring extra batteries and memory cards.
Travel Clothes: For days in Kathmandu.
Duffel bags (2) with locks: To transport equipment.
Entertainment Items: Kindle, Ipad, smart phone, etc.
Small personal first aid kit: Include athletic tape, band aids, Ibuprofin, blister care, personal medications, etc.
Medications and Prescriptions: Bring antibiotics (Azithromycin, etc.), and altitude medicine such as Diamox.

Day 1: Depart country of residence.

Day 2: Transit day

Day 3: Arrive in Kathmandu. We will pick you up at the airport and take you to the Yak & Yeti hotel. This is historically the ‘climbers hotel’ where many expeditions have stayed over the years. We enjoy a welcome dinner with the team.

Day 4: City tour of Kathmandu, we visit the Monkey Temple, Boudhanath (one of the holiest Buddhist sites in Kathmandu), Pashupatinath, and the Swayambhunath. After the tour we have dinner, then prepare for an early morning flight to Lukla.

Day 5: We fly by fixed wing aircraft into Lukla, and begin our trek! We pass through several Sherpa villages, and enter the Sagarmatha (Everest) National Park. After crossing the river by suspension bridge, we arrive in the village of Phakding.

Day 6: We continue trekking along the Dudh Kosi River through the village of Monjo, then up the hill to Namche Bazaar. Here we will spend 2 nights in our comfortable lodge acclimatizing and enjoying the sights and cafes in Namche.

Day 7: We go for an acclimatization hike and return to our lodge to rest and prepare for the next day of trekking.

Day 8: After breakfast we head out of Namche and traverse the magnificent valley towards Tengboche. Here we have spectacular views of Everest, Lhotse, and Ama Dablam for the first time. We arrive in Tengboche and tour the famous Tengboche Monastery, and then continue to Debuche where we spend the night in the Rivendell lodge.

Day 9: Depart Debuche and trek through the rhododendron forest then cross the river and hike up the short hill to Pangboche. Here we visit with Lama Geshe, the high lama of the Khumbu Valley, who many climbers visit for blessings before heading to climb peaks such as Everest, Lhotse, or Island Peak. We continue up the valley to Dingboche to stay this evening.

Day 10: Today we do an acclimatization hike above Dingboche to gain spectacular views of Cho Oyu, Makalu, and Lhotse, then return to our lodge in Dingboche to spend the night.

Day 11: After breakfast we trek onward past Thugla and arrive in Lobuche, the highest yak grazing ground in the Khumbu Valley. We overnight in Lobuche.

Day 12: Trek to Gorak Shep. After checking into our lodge and having lunch, we hike up nearby Kala Patthar for an amazing view of Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, and the other surrounding peaks. We return to Gorak Shep for dinner.

Day 13: We trek to Everest base camp and visit one of the climbing team camps that are in operation for the season. After a few photos of the Khumbu Icefall we return to Gorak Shep to spend the night.

Day 14: Today we descend down the valley to Debuche where we are acquainted with our friends in the Rivendell lodge.

Day 15: From Debuche we trek to Namche, where we enjoy the many cafes and shops of the “capital of the Khumbu.”

Day 16: Trek to Lukla and spend our final night in the mountains.

Day 17. Fly to Kathmandu check into the Yak & Yeti hotel.

Day 18: Extra day for touring Kathmandu, visit shops and restaurants.

Day 19: Depart Kathmandu for home.

Day 20: Arrive in country of residence

Cost: $4,600

2018
March 31 – April 19
October 7 – 26

October 7 – 26
*Arrive in Kathmandu Oct. 9

Costs Include:
• Accommodations at the Yak & Yeti hotel for two nights before and two nights after the trek
• Airport pick up upon arrival
• Welcome dinner in Kathmandu
• All in country flights to Lukla
• All lodging while trekking
• All meals while trekking
• Permits and Park entrance fees
• American guide, Sherpa guide, Nepali staff to carry loads, etc.

Costs Do Not Include:
• Personal items (see Equipment list)
• Wire transfer fee
• Meals in Kathmandu
• Any bottled beverages while trekking
• Option to upgrade to single room
• Cost for helicopter transport
• Any costs as the result of an early departure from the program

Hiking shoes: comfortable boots or shoes for the trek to base camp.
Wool or synthetic socks: 3 pair
Liner socks: 3 pair
Synthetic Short underwear: A non cotton style underwear.
Lightweight Long Underwear: 1-2 pair longsleve shirt and long pants
Heavyweight long underwear: 1 pair
Short Sleeve Synthetic Shirt: 1-2 pair
Lightweight Nylon Pants: 1-2 pair
Soft Shell jacket: To be worn over other layers
Hard Shell Jacket with hood: A waterproof and breathable shell jacket
Hard Shell Pants: Waterproof and breathable shell pants
Insulated Jacket: Down or Primaloft
Synthetic or wool hat (ski hat).
Baseball Cap or other sun hat: To shade your face / neck from the sun on a hot day.
Bandana or Buff: To protect your neck / face from the sun.
Glacier glasses: Full protection with side covers or wrap around.
Lightweight synthetic liner gloves: For wearing on a hot day.
Soft shell gloves: To wear for moderate cold / wind.
Trekking Backpack: To carry on the trek to base camp. Simple and light.
Sleeping Bag: rated to at least -20°F.
Compression stuff sacks: For reducing volume of the sleeping bag, down parka, etc., in your pack.
Trekking poles: Adjustable
Headlamp: With extra batteries
Sunscreen: SPF 40 or better
Lipscreen: SPF 40 or better (2 sticks).
Water bottles: 2 wide mouth bottles with 1 liter capacity.
Pee bottle: 1 liter minimum bottle for convenience at night in the tent.
Toiletry bag: Include toilet paper and hand sanitizer and small towel.
Knife or multi tool (optional).
Trash compactor bags: to line back pack and stuff sacks in the event of rain or wet snow is falling on us.
Camera: bring extra batteries and memory cards.
Travel Clothes: For days in Kathmandu.
Duffel bags (2) with locks: To transport equipment.
Entertainment Items: Kindle, Ipad, smart phone, etc.
Small personal first aid kit: Include athletic tape, band aids, Ibuprofin, blister care, personal medications, etc.
Medications and Prescriptions: Bring antibiotics (Azithromycin, etc.), and altitude medicine such as Diamox.

More Climbs

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Madison Mountaineering Everest 2017 Recap, “The Leader” on Everest

Highest Success & Safety Two Years Running:

Our 2017 Mount Everest Expedition was again a fantastic success, with 100% of our 8 clients who reached Camp 2 making the summit of Everest on May 21st and May 23rd, along with 4 American guides, and 15 Sherpas!! We also were the only company that had several of our climbers complete the Everest & Lhotse “peak to peak” combination, where they climbed Mount Lhotse (4th highest mountain) the day after reaching the summit of Mount Everest. This amazing and unmatched level of success among all the teams on Mount Everest is secondary to our number one priority, that all members (clients, guides, & Sherpas) made it safely off the peak.

Rope Fixing to the Summit:

Our team took the lead in partnership with the British – Nepal Gurkha team in fixing the ropes to the summit of Mount Everest on May 15th, 2017. This was not part of our original plan, as the rope-fixing project was taken upon by several other teams at the start of the season. Unfortunately, after several mishaps, the lead team had to abandon the rope-fixing project along with their partners. Without any clear consensus on how or when the lines would be put in to the summit, our team stepped up to finish the job. This “mission critical” project was necessary so that teams could begin their summit attempts on Mount Everest, with teams reaching the summit the following day on May 16th and continuing to reach the summit as late as May 28th. We are glad that our team had the capability and prowess to organize and execute such an important task, when no other teams on the mountain could summon such an effort, at such a critical stage in the climbing season.

Rescues:

Our team was at the South Col when several climbers who had pushed themselves very hard on summit day returned and needed critical medical attention. Our guides came to assist with medicine (dexamethasone, etc) and supplemental oxygen. However, what stands out the most is that one of our veteran guides, Brent Bishop, along with our Sherpas, rescued the Slovak Climber from the Balcony (27,500’), lowering him all the way down to the South Col high camp. We gave oxygen for him to use on the descent. This heroic effort by Brent and our Sherpas involved abandoning their own summit attempt, just hours away from the top, and spending the day giving their all in an effort to save a life.

We feel very fortunate that our expedition was a stunning success. We attribute this to our careful team selection and training, our top notch and very experienced Everest guides and leadership, and of course our incredible Sherpa team who we invest heavily in year after year.

2016 Expedition Recap: 100% of our 2016 Everest Climbers reached the summit, of those that embarked on the summit attempt a total of 27 climbers (clients, guides and sherpas) reached the top of the world on May 19th, 2016!!

As Expedition Leader and Guide for 10 years running on Mount Everest, Garrett Madison has overseen all aspects for his teams related to planning, organization, and climbing on Mount Everest. As one of the best known “Expedition Leaders” on Mount Everest with the highest success and safety record in recent years, Garrett has personally accompanied 52 climbers (clients) up Mount Everest to the summit since 2009 (as well as many co guides and climbing Sherpas), more than any other guide or Expedition Leader. Garrett is known for ‘climber care’, making the well being of his clients his number one priority, this is perhaps the most important differentiating factor in our expeditions compared to the others on Mount Everest. Garrett has recently climbed Mount Lhotse (4th highest mountain) two times, in guiding climbers on the “peak to peak” combination where members climb Mount Lhotse the day after reaching the top of Mount Everest. Garrett has been part of many “firsts” on Everest, such as the 2016 first ascent by an American with a prosthetic leg, however, his proudest accomplishment is a 100% safety record for clients under his watch while climbing the peak.

Mount Everest, known by the Nepalese / Sherpas as Sagarmatha and by the Tibetans as Chomolungma, is the world’s highest peak at 29,035’ (8850m) and is the border between Nepal and Tibet. Since the 1920s, many of the world’s top climbers have attempted to scale Mount Everest, and May 29th 1953 marked the first successful ascent by Tenzing Norgay (Nepal) and Sir Edmund Hillary (New Zealand). Madison Mountaineering offers the premier climbing experience on Mount Everest in regards to summit success, safety, and overall experience. Our teams work together, have fun, and form lasting bonds of friendship over the course of the expedition. Our camaraderie as well as the very high level of support sets us apart from the other teams, we often come to the aid of other climbers in distress. We achieve this with small teams, top guides & sherpas, a focus on safety and good decision making, an overall goal of summit success and making the ‘return trip’, and enjoying the experience of Everest throughout the expedition.

Our Everest Guides:
After his 10th expedition to Mount Everest (the last 9 years as ‘Expedition Leader’), Garrett Madison has reached the top 8 times. Garrett has personally guided more climbers (52) over the last 8 years than any other mountain guide or Expedition Leader. Our Everest guide team includes very experienced mountain guides with multiple Everest summits such as Brent Bishop, Conan Bliss, Billy Nugent, Geoff Schellens, Fred Alldredge, and Sid Pattison, some of the most experienced and capable Everest guides on the mountain. This vast amount of organizational and logistical expertise, combined with a commitment to provide the best possible services to ensure safety and success, make Madison Mountaineering the premier boutique guiding company on Mount Everest. Climbers will have an unparalleled opportunity for safely climbing to the summit and returning to base camp, as well as climbing Lhotse if desired. Enjoying the experience is a high priority, and our climbers can attest to having a great time throughout! (Please contact us for past Everest climber testimonials) Our teams are different than the large scale operations where climbers are locked into specific dates for rotations and summit attempts, and may be one of many people sitting down to eat in the dining tent, or dealing with illness spreading throughout the group. Often these large groups have only a leader who remains in base camp and coaches members over the radio, while with our team your leader climbs with you to the summit and back, often making the crucial ‘mission critical’ decisions on the spot, this is a big part of our high level of success and safety. By keeping our team small yet highly supported, we don’t compromise our standards in providing the best strategy, flexibility, and resources needed to succeed in the dynamic environment that is Everest. The equation for success and safety involves variables that can and often rapidly change such as:
• Weather (wind speed, precipitation, temperature)
• Acclimatization and health
• Climbing route (the route often changes daily through the Khumbu Icefall)
• Other climbers and teams (climbers needing assistance, evacuation, as well as periodic overcrowding on the route) Some teams now bring over 100+ Climbers and Sherpas, hardly an intimate experience!

We can quickly adjust to changing conditions better than any other team. We have the best communication systems available to monitor the weather (along with a few dedicated meteorologists), to communicate with other teams on the mountain to collaborate on the route, weather, rescues, and summit schedule. We have an experienced base camp manager, a menu plan developed by a certified nutritionist, and a helicopter available that can evacuate an injured or ill climber if necessary from as high as Camp 3. Our Sherpas are among the finest and most respected on the mountain, as evidenced by our Sherpas who took part in fixing the ropes to the summit on May 15th, 2017. We are a team that works together to accomplish our common goals of safety, success, and having fun. If you would like to know more, we invite you to contact us!

Everest Express

Our 2017 Everest Express climbers both succeeded in reaching the summit of Mount Everest on May 23rd, just under a month from the beginning of our Express program, proving once again that the program works! With the aid of the Hypoxico Tent System as well as helicopters, the Everest Express program allows climbers to achieve the summit in less than one month.

History was made in 2013 when two climbers joined Garrett halfway through the Mount Everest season. These men had each pre acclimatized at homes in a chamber over their beds for one month and then flew directly to the mountain via helicopter where they integrated with the regular climbing team. From that point on (April 26th) they climbed on schedule with the regular team that Garrett led, and summited with the team on May 18th. They experienced no negative effects, and performed well overall. They were door to door in less than a month, and this marked the first and only time that an expedited schedule of this length has been accomplished for guided climbers on a commercial Mount Everest expedition.

This program includes:
‌• Pre acclimatization plan and rental of the altitude bedchamber
• Training plan to develop appropriate fitness for the Everest climb
• Climbing strategy upon arrival in Nepal to the summit of Mount Everest and back
• All regular logistics and services associated with the standard Mount Everest program we offer once climbers arrive in Nepal.

The Everest Express climb was a success, and proves that with the proper training, technology, and coaching, climbers can elect to forgo the normal two months required to climb Mount Everest. For those with commitments to family and business that would prohibit a two month departure, the Everest Express allows for a successful climbing experience on Mount Everest in a one month or less time frame. Garrett Madison is currently the only guide to have organized and executed successfully a program of this nature in less than one month.

Everest Express Program: $75,000
April 25-May 25, 2018
Cost Includes (in addition to normal Mount Everest program):
• Rental of altitude chamber system for 1-month duration of pre acclimatization
• Helicopter flights in Nepal, Kathmandu to Mount Everest base camp and return
• All permits and equipment for the climb including extra oxygen
• Coaching and strategy, guiding by Madison Mountaineering
• Please contact us to learn more about the acclimatization plan and climbing strategy for this program.

Dates and Costs for Standard Mount Everest Program

April 2 (arrive Kathmandu) – May 31, 2018
Cost: $65,000
Deposit: $25,000

Mount Everest and Lhotse Combination Climb
April 2 – May 31, 2018
Cost: $80,000

Expedition costs include:
• Airport pick up in Kathmandu
• 3 night accommodations in Kathmandu at Yak & Yeti Hotel, 2 nights before and 1 night after the expedition.
• Welcome dinner in Kathmandu.
• Lodging for all nights during the trek to and from base camp.
• Tents during the climb.
• All food during the trek and climb. We provide high quality food from the USA and Nepal. If you have specific dietary requirements, please give us specific details and we will accommodate your needs!
• All transportation in Nepal, including round-trip flights from Kathmandu to Lukla & Lukla to Kathmandu. Helicopter out of base camp after expedition is available as an optional upgrade.
• All group equipment needed to climb the mountain: cooking gear, fuel, stoves, ropes, all forms of rock, ice, and snow protection, radio communications, oxygen delivery system and oxygen cylinders, medical supplies, etc.
• Internet access wifi is available to all climbers on our team at base camp ($50/gigabyte). Sat phone is available at $3 per minute.
• Sherpa, porters, liaison officer, camp staff and American mountain guides.
• All administration fees owed to Nepal, including climbing permits.

Expedition costs do not include:
• $25 Wire Transfer Fee (If Applicable)
• International round-trip airfare (Home Country-Nepal-Home Country).
• Meals in Kathmandu and hotels after the climb (once the climber has left the mountain).
• Personal gear, clothing and sleeping equipment (see gear list).
• Trip cancellation insurance.
• Comprehensive medical exam: A physician signed Medical Release Form is required.
• Alcoholic beverages and bottled drinks.
• All expenses incurred in the event of early departure (evacuation fees, transport, extra hotel nights, etc.).
• Personal Items.
• Charges incurred as a result of delays beyond the control of Madison Mountaineering, LLC.
• Personal communication (phone, fax, e-mail) between Nepal and home country.
• Gratuity for western guide.
• $1000 Sherpa summit bonus.

Nepal Cancellation/Refund Policy
• Madison Mountaineering, LLC highly recommends trip cancellation insurance for all expeditions. Due to the nature and heavy costs of government and operator permits, Madison Mountaineering must adhere to a stringent refund policy.
• Deposit due with registration materials.
• All balances are due 120 days prior to departure date unless otherwise specified.
• Participants whose balances are not received by the 120-day deadline as stated above, risk forfeiture of their funds and their place on the expedition.
• There are no refunds for the deposit or balance for this expedition.

Note: Madison Mountaineering, LLC reserves the right to waive any fees. As we offer personalized service, we will attempt to accommodate changes and cancellations when necessary, waiving certain fees when feasible. Deposits paid by participants acknowledge the above cancellation terms.

Itinerary

Please contact us to learn about our finely tuned acclimatization and climbing strategy as it relates to our Mount Everest Expedition. Our climbing itinerary has been refined over 10 Mount Everest expeditions, and in both 2017 and 2016 resulted in 100% of the climbers reaching the summit, who embarked on the summit attempt after reaching Camp 2.

Everest Itinerary:

April 2: Meet in KTM
April 3: City tour in KTM
April 4: Fly to Lukla and begin trek to base camp (stay in Phak Ding)
April 5: Trek to Namche
April 6-7: Rest in Namche, Everest View Point, etc.
April 8: Trek to Debuche
April 9: Trek to Pangboche
April 10: Trek to Dingboche
April 11: Rest in Dingboche
April 12: Trek to Lobuche
April 13: Rest in Loubche
April 14: Trek to base camp
April 15-20: Acclimatize and review mountaineering technique (ladder practice, fixed lines, etc) in base camp, Puja ceremony.
April 21: Climb to Camp 1
April 22: Rest in Camp 1
April 23: Climb to Camp 2
April 24: Rest in Camp 2
April 25: Descend to base camp
April 26-30: Rest in base camp
May 1: Climb to Camp 2
May 2: Rest in Camp 2
May 3: Rest in Camp 2 (hike up west shoulder)
May 4: Touch Camp 3, sleep in Camp 2
May 5: Descend to base camp
May 6-13: Descend and rest in Debuche or Namche, evaluate weather conditions for summit rotation
May 14: Climb to Camp 2
May 15: Rest in Camp 2
May 16: Climb to Camp 3 (use O2)
May 17: Climb to Camp 4 (use O2)
May 18: Rest in Camp 4 (use O2)
May 19: Climb to Summit! (use O2) and return to Camp 4.
May 20: Climb to Summit of Lhtose, return to Camp 2.
May 21: Descent to base camp.
May 22-24: Trek to Lukla
May 25: Arrive Kathmandu
May 26: Depart for home country
May 27-31: Extra days in case of bad weather, etc. (contingency)

*Schedule subject to change based on route conditions, weather conditions, and climber health.

Gear List

• Ice Axe: General mountaineering tool (65cm)
• Crampons: General mountaineering crampons
• Climbing Helmet: Must be able to fit over your ski hat
• Ascender: 1 right or left hand ascender (Petzel brand is best)
• Alpine Climbing Harness: A mountaineering harness, with adjustable leg loops. Not a rock climbing “sport” harness.
• Carabiners: 3 locking and 3 regular
• Rappel device: ATC or figure 8
• Mountaineering boots: Olympus Mons, Millet, ect.
• Hiking shoes: comfortable boots or shoes for the trek to base camp.
• Camp boots: comfortable boots for wearing in camp.
• Booties: Optional, down is best.
• Wool or synthetic socks: 6 pair
• Liner socks: 3 pair
• Synthetic Short underwear: A non cotton style underwear.
• Lightweight Long Underwear: 2-3 pair longsleve shirt and long pants
• Heavyweight long underwear: 1 pair
• Short Sleeve Synthetic Shirt: 1-2 pair
• Lightweight Nylon Pants: 1-2 pair
• Soft Shell jacket: To be worn over other layers
• Soft Shell Pants: Very breathable and water repellant
• Hard Shell Jacket with hood: A waterproof and breathable shell jacket
• Hard Shell Pants: Waterproof and breathable shell pants
• Insulated Down Jacket with hood: We primarily wear this when climbing below Camp 2.
• Insulated synthetic Pants: Worn primarily when climbing below Camp 2.
• Down Suit: Feathered Friends, Sherpa, North Face, Mountain Hardwear, etc. We wear this climbing above Camp 2.
• Warm Hat: Synthetic or wool hat (ski hat).
• Balaclava: to protect your neck and face in high winds.
• Baseball Camp or other sun hat: To shade your face / neck from the sun on a hot day.
• Bandana or Buff: To protect your neck / face from the sun.
• Glacier glasses: Full protection with side covers or wrap around.
• Ski goggles: To be worn on summit day in the event of high winds.
• Lightweight synthetic liner gloves: For wearing on a hot day.
• Soft shell gloves: To wear for moderate cold / wind.
• Shell glove with insulated liner: To wear for severe cold / strong wind.
• Expedition Mitts: Large enough to fit a liner glove inside.
• Expedition Backpack: 65L pack should be large enough.
• Trekking Backpack: To carry on the trek to base camp. Simple and light.
• Sleeping Bag (for high camps): Rated to at least -40°F. Goose down or synthetic.
• Sleeping Bag (for base camp): rated to at least -20°F.
• Compression stuff sacks: For reducing volume of the sleeping bag, down parka, etc., in your pack.
• Self inflating sleeping pad (1 for base camp and 1 for high camps): Full length is preferred.
• Closed cell foam pad: To be used in conjunction with the inflating pad for warmth and comfort when sleeping.
• Trekking poles with snow baskets: Adjustable poles
• Cup: A plastic 16 oz. minimum cup or mug
• Bowl: A plastic bowl for eating dinner or breakfast out of
• Spoon: Plastic spoon (lexan)
• Headlamp: With 2 extra sets of new batteries
• Sunscreen: SPF 50 or better
• Lipscreen: SPF 30 or better (2 sticks).
• Water bottles: 2 or 3 wide mouth bottles with 1 liter capacity.
• Water bottle parkas (2): fully insulated with zip opening.
• Thermos: 1 liter
• Pee bottle: 1 liter minimum bottle for convenience at night in the tent.
• Toiletry bag: Include toilet paper and hand sanitizer and small towel
• Hand warmers & toe warmers: 3 sets of each. Or use Hot Tronics for food warmer system.
• Knife or multi tool (optional).
• Trash compactor bags: to line back pack and stuff sacks as well as for separating gear.
• Camera: bring extra batteries and memory cards.
• Travel Clothes: For days in Kathmandu.
• Duffel bags (2) with locks: To transport equipment.
• Base Camp Items: Kindle, Ipad, smart phone, etc.
• Snack food: Please bring a few days of your favorite climbing snack food such as bars, gels, nuts, beef jerky, etc. A variety of salty and sweet is good.
• Small personal first aid kit: Include athletic tape, band aids, Ibuprofin, blister care, personal medications, etc.
• Medications and Prescriptions: Bring antibiotics (Azithromycin, etc.), and altitude medicine such as Diamox and dexamethasone.

Photo Credit: Stuart Erskine

Our 2017 Everest Express climbers both succeeded in reaching the summit of Mount Everest on May 23rd, just under a month from the beginning of our Express program, proving once again that the program works! With the aid of the Hypoxico Tent System as well as helicopters, the Everest Express program allows climbers to achieve the summit in less than one month.

History was made in 2013 when two climbers joined Garrett halfway through the Mount Everest season. These men had each pre acclimatized at homes in a chamber over their beds for one month and then flew directly to the mountain via helicopter where they integrated with the regular climbing team. From that point on (April 26th) they climbed on schedule with the regular team that Garrett led, and summited with the team on May 18th. They experienced no negative effects, and performed well overall. They were door to door in less than a month, and this marked the first and only time that an expedited schedule of this length has been accomplished for guided climbers on a commercial Mount Everest expedition.

This program includes:
‌• Pre acclimatization plan and rental of the altitude bedchamber
• Training plan to develop appropriate fitness for the Everest climb
• Climbing strategy upon arrival in Nepal to the summit of Mount Everest and back
• All regular logistics and services associated with the standard Mount Everest program we offer once climbers arrive in Nepal.

The Everest Express climb was a success, and proves that with the proper training, technology, and coaching, climbers can elect to forgo the normal two months required to climb Mount Everest. For those with commitments to family and business that would prohibit a two month departure, the Everest Express allows for a successful climbing experience on Mount Everest in a one month or less time frame. Garrett Madison is currently the only guide to have organized and executed successfully a program of this nature in less than one month.

Everest Express Program: $75,000
April 25-May 25, 2017
Cost Includes (in addition to normal Mount Everest program):
• Rental of altitude chamber system for 1-month duration of pre acclimatization
• Helicopter flights in Nepal, Kathmandu to Mount Everest base camp and return
• All permits and equipment for the climb including extra oxygen
• Coaching and strategy, guiding by Madison Mountaineering
• Please contact us to learn more about the acclimatization plan and climbing strategy for this program.

Itinerary:

Day 1: Arrive Kathmandu, gear check and stay in Yak & Yeti hotel.

Day 2: Fly via helicopter to Lukla. Transfer in helicopter to Lobuche village, rest and sleep in Lobuche lodge (4,940m / 16,300’).

Day 3: Trek to Everest base camp (5,300m / 17,500’).

Day 4: Rest and organize gear in base camp.

Day 5-7: Begin training on Khumbu glacier near base camp. Climbers will practice how to use the fixed ropes, ice axe, crampons, ascender, etc., to climb safely through the Khumbu Icefall and cross the many ladders on the way up to Camp 2. This training will include ascending vertical ice and rappelling down vertical sections.

Day 8: Climb to Camp 1 (5,800m / 19,200’)

Day 9: Rest in Camp 1, acclimatization hike

Day 10: Climb to Camp 2 (6,450m / 21,300’)

Day 11: Rest in Camp 2, acclimatization hike

Day 12: Climb to Camp 3 (7,200m / 23,760’), return to Camp 2 to sleep

Day 13: Descend to Base Camp

Days 14-17: Rest in Base Camp

Day 18: Climb to Camp 2

Day 19: Rest at Camp 2

Day 20: Climb to Camp 3 (7,200m / 23,760’)

Day 21: Climb to Camp 4 (7,900m / 26,000’)

Day 22: Rest at Camp 4

Day 23: Summit & return to Camp 4

Day 24: Descend to Camp 2

Day 25: Descend to Everest base camp, sleep in base camp

Day 26: Fly by helicopter to Lukla, then Kathmandu

Day 27: Depart Kathmandu for home country

Day 28: Arrive home

Day 29-36: Contingency days (8) in case extra days are needed on the mountain because of bad weather, acclimatization, or getting back to Kathmandu.

Please contact us to learn about our finely tuned acclimatization and climbing strategy as it relates to our Mount Everest Expedition. Our climbing itinerary has been refined over 10 Mount Everest expeditions, in both 2017 and 2016 resulting in 100% of the climbers reaching the summit, who embarked on the summit attempt after reaching Camp 2.

Everest Itinerary:

April 2: Meet in KTM
April 3: City tour in KTM
April 4: Fly to Lukla and begin trek to base camp (stay in Phak Ding)
April 5: Trek to Namche
April 6-7: Rest in Namche, Everest View Point, etc.
April 8: Trek to Debuche
April 9: Trek to Pangboche
April 10: Trek to Dingboche
April 11: Rest in Dingboche
April 12: Trek to Lobuche
April 13: Rest in Loubche
April 14: Trek to base camp
April 15-20: Acclimatize and review mountaineering technique (ladder practice, fixed lines, etc) in base camp, Puja ceremony.
April 21: Climb to Camp 1
April 22: Rest in Camp 1
April 23: Climb to Camp 2
April 24: Rest in Camp 2
April 25: Descend to base camp
April 26-30: Rest in base camp
May 1: Climb to Camp 2
May 2: Rest in Camp 2
May 3: Rest in Camp 2 (hike up west shoulder)
May 4: Touch Camp 3, sleep in Camp 2
May 5: Descend to base camp
May 6-13: Descend and rest in Debuche or Namche, evaluate weather conditions for summit rotation
May 14: Climb to Camp 2
May 15: Rest in Camp 2
May 16: Climb to Camp 3 (use O2)
May 17: Climb to Camp 4 (use O2)
May 18: Rest in Camp 4 (use O2)
May 19: Climb to Summit! (use O2) and return to Camp 4.
May 20: Climb to Summit of Lhtose, return to Camp 2.
May 21: Descent to base camp.
May 22-24: Trek to Lukla
May 25: Arrive Kathmandu
May 26: Depart for home country
May 27-31: Extra days in case of bad weather, etc. (contingency)

*Schedule subject to change based on route conditions, weather conditions, and climber health.

Dates and Costs for Standard Mount Everest Program
April 2 (arrive Kathmandu) – May 31, 2018
Cost: $65,000
Deposit: $25,000

Mount Everest and Lhotse Combination Climb
April 2 – May 31, 2018
Cost: $80,000

Expedition costs include:
• Airport pick up in Kathmandu
• 3 night accommodations in Kathmandu at Yak & Yeti Hotel, 2 nights before and 1 night after the expedition.
• Welcome dinner in Kathmandu.
• Lodging for all nights during the trek to and from base camp.
• Tents during the climb.
• All food during the trek and climb. We provide high quality food from the USA and Nepal. If you have specific dietary requirements, please give us specific details and we will accommodate your needs!
• All transportation in Nepal, including round-trip flights from Kathmandu to Lukla & Lukla to Kathmandu. Helicopter out of base camp after expedition is available as an optional upgrade.
• All group equipment needed to climb the mountain: cooking gear, fuel, stoves, ropes, all forms of rock, ice, and snow protection, radio communications, oxygen delivery system and oxygen cylinders, medical supplies, etc.
• Internet access wifi is available to all climbers on our team at base camp ($50/gigabyte). Sat phone is available at $3 per minute.
• Sherpa, porters, liaison officer, camp staff and American mountain guides.
• All administration fees owed to Nepal, including climbing permits.

Expedition costs do not include:
• $25 Wire Transfer Fee (If Applicable)
• International round-trip airfare (Home Country-Nepal-Home Country).
• Meals in Kathmandu and hotels after the climb (once the climber has left the mountain).
• Personal gear, clothing and sleeping equipment (see gear list).
• Trip cancellation insurance.
• Comprehensive medical exam: A physician signed Medical Release Form is required.
• Alcoholic beverages and bottled drinks.
• All expenses incurred in the event of early departure (evacuation fees, transport, extra hotel nights, etc.).
• Personal Items.
• Charges incurred as a result of delays beyond the control of Madison Mountaineering, LLC.
• Personal communication (phone, fax, e-mail) between Nepal and home country.
• Gratuity for western guide.
• $1000 per Sherpa summit bonus.

Nepal Cancellation/Refund Policy
• Madison Mountaineering, LLC highly recommends trip cancellation insurance for all expeditions. Due to the nature and heavy costs of government and operator permits, Madison Mountaineering must adhere to a stringent refund policy.
• Deposit due with registration materials.
• All balances are due 120 days prior to departure date unless otherwise specified.
• Participants whose balances are not received by the 120-day deadline as stated above, risk forfeiture of their funds and their place on the expedition.
• There are no refunds for the deposit or balance for this expedition.

Note: Madison Mountaineering, LLC reserves the right to waive any fees. As we offer personalized service, we will attempt to accommodate changes and cancellations when necessary, waiving certain fees when feasible. Deposits paid by participants acknowledge the above cancellation terms.

• Ice Axe: General mountaineering tool (65cm)
• Crampons: General mountaineering crampons
• Climbing Helmet: Must be able to fit over your ski hat
• Ascender: 1 right or left hand ascender (Petzel brand is best)
• Alpine Climbing Harness: A mountaineering harness, with adjustable leg loops. Not a rock climbing “sport” harness.
• Carabiners: 3 locking and 3 regular
• Rappel device: ATC or figure 8
• Mountaineering boots: Olympus Mons, Millet, ect.
• Hiking shoes: comfortable boots or shoes for the trek to base camp.
• Camp boots: comfortable boots for wearing in camp.
• Booties: Optional, down is best.
• Wool or synthetic socks: 6 pair
• Liner socks: 3 pair
• Synthetic Short underwear: A non cotton style underwear.
• Lightweight Long Underwear: 2-3 pair longsleve shirt and long pants
• Heavyweight long underwear: 1 pair
• Short Sleeve Synthetic Shirt: 1-2 pair
• Lightweight Nylon Pants: 1-2 pair
• Soft Shell jacket: To be worn over other layers
• Soft Shell Pants: Very breathable and water repellant
• Hard Shell Jacket with hood: A waterproof and breathable shell jacket
• Hard Shell Pants: Waterproof and breathable shell pants
• Insulated Down Jacket with hood: We primarily wear this when climbing below Camp 2.
• Insulated synthetic Pants: Worn primarily when climbing below Camp 2.
• Down Suit: Feathered Friends, Sherpa, North Face, Mountain Hardwear, etc. We wear this climbing above Camp 2.
• Warm Hat: Synthetic or wool hat (ski hat).
• Balaclava: to protect your neck and face in high winds.
• Baseball Camp or other sun hat: To shade your face / neck from the sun on a hot day.
• Bandana or Buff: To protect your neck / face from the sun.
• Glacier glasses: Full protection with side covers or wrap around.
• Ski goggles: To be worn on summit day in the event of high winds.
• Lightweight synthetic liner gloves: For wearing on a hot day.
• Soft shell gloves: To wear for moderate cold / wind.
• Shell glove with insulated liner: To wear for severe cold / strong wind.
• Expedition Mitts: Large enough to fit a liner glove inside.
• Expedition Backpack: 65L pack should be large enough.
• Trekking Backpack: To carry on the trek to base camp. Simple and light.
• Sleeping Bag (for high camps): Rated to at least -40°F. Goose down or synthetic.
• Sleeping Bag (for base camp): rated to at least -20°F.
• Compression stuff sacks: For reducing volume of the sleeping bag, down parka, etc., in your pack.
• Self inflating sleeping pad (1 for base camp and 1 for high camps): Full length is preferred.
• Closed cell foam pad: To be used in conjunction with the inflating pad for warmth and comfort when sleeping.
• Trekking poles with snow baskets: Adjustable poles
• Cup: A plastic 16 oz. minimum cup or mug
• Bowl: A plastic bowl for eating dinner or breakfast out of
• Spoon: Plastic spoon (lexan)
• Headlamp: With 2 extra sets of new batteries
• Sunscreen: SPF 50 or better
• Lipscreen: SPF 30 or better (2 sticks).
• Water bottles: 2 or 3 wide mouth bottles with 1 liter capacity.
• Water bottle parkas (2): fully insulated with zip opening.
• Thermos: 1 liter
• Pee bottle: 1 liter minimum bottle for convenience at night in the tent.
• Toiletry bag: Include toilet paper and hand sanitizer and small towel
• Hand warmers & toe warmers: 3 sets of each. Or use Hot Tronics for food warmer system.
• Knife or multi tool (optional).
• Trash compactor bags: to line back pack and stuff sacks as well as for separating gear.
• Camera: bring extra batteries and memory cards.
• Travel Clothes: For days in Kathmandu.
• Duffel bags (2) with locks: To transport equipment.
• Base Camp Items: Kindle, Ipad, smart phone, etc.
• Snack food: Please bring a few days of your favorite climbing snack food such as bars, gels, nuts, beef jerky, etc. A variety of salty and sweet is good.
• Small personal first aid kit: Include athletic tape, band aids, Ibuprofin, blister care, personal medications, etc.
• Medications and Prescriptions: Bring antibiotics (Azithromycin, etc.), and altitude medicine such as Diamox and dexamethasone.

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