Garrett Madison

Garrett Madison began guiding professionally in 1999 on Mount Rainier, and is now America’s premier Everest climber and guide. As Expedition Leader, he has personally lead 37 climbers to the summit of Everest over the last 7 years, more than any other American. In 2011, Garrett led the first expedition in history where climbers succeeded in the Everest – Lhotse combination, reaching the summit of two 8000 meter peaks in less than 24 hours (while personally guiding one climber peak to peak in 21 hours), and again repeated this “double header” in 2013. Garrett is currently the only climber in the world to repeat this “peak to peak” combination, and holds the record for guiding climbers (4) in this endeavor. In 2014, Garrett led the first ever successfully ‘guided’ ascent of K2, arguably the hardest and most dangerous mountain in the world, reaching the summit with 2 climbers and 3 Sherpas on July 27, 2014. Garrett also regularly guides many “7 Summits” expeditions such as Aconcagua, Vinson, Kilimanjaro, Elbrus, etc., during the year. In addition, Garrett is regularly involved with film productions on Everest, participating in 4 different features over the last 3 years.

Significant Ascents & Expeditions


  • Everest (6 expeditions / ascents)
  • K2 (1 expedition / ascent)
  • Mt. Rainier (over 183 ascents)
  • Lhotse, 4th highest (2 ascents)
  • Makalu expedition (5th highest)
  • Manaslu expedition (8th highest)
  • Cho Oyu expedition (6th highest)
  • Aconcagua (11 expeditions)
  • Denali (3 expeditions)
  • Mt. Vinson, Antarctica (9 expeditions)
  • Kilimanjaro, Africa (3 expeditions)
  • Ama Dablam, Nepal (3 expeditions)
  • Mexico Volcanoes (6 expeditions)
  • Ecuador Volcanoes (2 expedition)
  • Peru (Cordillera Blanca)
  • Numerous climbs in Washington State (Mt. Baker, Shuksan, Olympus, North Cascades, etc.)

Personal Climbs

  • 6 ascents of Mont Blanc
  • 1 ascent of the Matterhorn
  • 1 attempt of Mt. Nuptse, Nepal (reached 7200 meters)


  • Wilderness First Responder
  • Level 2 Avalanche Forecasting for Guides
  • Leave No Trace Trainer

Sponsors & Partners

Inspirational Speaking

Leading 7 expeditions to Mt. Everest and having observed hundreds of climbers in challenging situations on the mountain, Garrett Madison has identified which techniques work, and more importantly which techniques do not work, in scaling the world’s highest Peak. Garrett articulates his strategy for success and survival on Everest, and touches on the following topics:

  • How to lead a diverse group of individuals through challenging circumstances and achieve success.
  • The Everest & Lhotse combination climb.
  • How to mitigate risk on Everest and the high mountains.
  • Garrett’s recent successful climb of K 2, the world’s second highest peak.

  • Garrett Madison’s presentation will engage your audience like never before as he recounts real life events that have shaped his strategy for success on Everest, with stunning video and photo content that will bring you directly to the mountain.

    Coming Soon: Garrett's First Book

    High-Stakes Leadership:
    When Your Life And The Lives
    Of Others Hang In The Balance